| CHAPTER I. |
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| Dr Cushing’s arrival—A-heng—Leave Shoaygoon—Gold and silver carried—Flood of 1877—A bad driver—Dog offered to demons—Soused in the Hlineboay—Hlineboay—Traders—Mr Bryce’s party—Asked to join parties—Dr Cushing in charge of commissariat—Labelling and sorting baskets—The luggage—Medicines—Karen interpreter—Loading the elephants—Portow and Loogalay—Madras boys good fighters, | [1] |
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| CHAPTER II. |
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| Surveying—Thankful for a halt—Leave Hlineboay—Karen houses infested with bugs—Halt near well—Rigging up shelter for the night—Tent left behind—Teak-forest—Yunnanese—A scare—Exploding bamboos—Trees 130 feet high—A mid-day halt—The British guard-house—A night camp—Glutinous rice, mode of cooking and carriage—Elephants feeding—Heavy dew—Journey down the Yembine valley—Motion of elephants—Difficult surveying—A practical joke—Railway to Rangoon and Mandalay—Heathen Karens—No longer a missionary—Difficulty in converting Buddhists—Venison for dinner—Stung by bees—Pass between the Thoungyeen and the Salween—Trees 25 feet in circumference—Limestone cliffs—Offering to the dead—Descent to the Thoungyeen—The ford, | [9] |
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| CHAPTER III. |
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| Rev. D. Webster’s party detained—Siamese officials expect bribes—Photographic plates all spoilt—Visit from Karens—Joined by the B.B. party—Siamese police post—Gorges in the Thoungyeen and Meh Nium—Rapids stop navigation—Forests and elephants—Dwarf races—Kamook and Kamait slaves hired by our foresters—Migration of Laos from Tonquin—The Khas of Luang Prabang—Sacrifices to demons—Drinking the health of strangers—King of Siam allows slave-hunting—Missionaries required in the Meh Kong valley—Leave the guard-house—Crossing the water-parting—Wild tea—Karen villages built distant from road—Country formerly lacustrine—Shelter for the night—Heavy rain—A shower-bath in bed—Elephants crossing steep hills—Wild animals—Reach the Meh Nium—Karen pigs—Remains of a lake-bottom—The Maing Loongyee plain—Epidemic of smallpox—Villages tabooed—Arrive at Maing Loongyee—Moung Hmoon Taw’s house—A timber prince and the money-lenders, | [19] |
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| CHAPTER IV. |
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| Maing Loongyee traversed by war-paths—Dr Richardson’s visit—Price of slaves—Dr Cushing’s visit—Raided by Karennis—The city and suburbs—Visit the governor—The Shan States—Government—Succession to the throne—Titles—Modes of execution—Zimmé formerly extended from the Salween to the Meh Kong—The governor and his brother—The bazaar—Distributing seeds—Information from foresters—Collecting vocabularies—Moung Loogalay—Portow—A magician—Dr Cushing at work and exasperated—Visit to ancient city and to the earth-hills—Crossing the river—A dangerous walk—Pine-trees—Number of Lawa, Karen, and Shan villages—Population—A Karen dance—Enticing a Lawa—Description—Similarity between Kamook and Lawa languages—Visit to the governor—Effect of a telegram—Elephants hired for forest work from Karens—Mode of attack of male and female elephants, | [30] |
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| CHAPTER V. |
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| Leave Maing Loongyee—A hundred-foot waterfall—A beautiful hill-torrent—A lugubrious tale—Gibbons—Gigantic tree-ferns—Shans cruel elephant-drivers—Method of driving—Droves of pigs and laden cattle—Loi Pwe—An accident—Wild raspberries—Shans bartering goods—The Meh Laik valley—A fall of 2049 feet—Paths for the railway—Lawa villages—Aborigines—Burial custom—Human sacrifices in the Shan States and China—Legend concerning the conquest of the Lawas by the Shans—The virgin of the lotus-flower—Gaudama sacrificed to as the goddess of mercy—Sacrifices to ancestors and demons—Similarity of superstitions in ancient Chaldea and the Shan States—Photographing Lawas—Clothing worn for decency’s sake—Costume of Lawas—Cold nights—View of the hills—Bau-gyee—Iron-mines guarded by demons—A young blacksmith, | [42] |
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| CHAPTER VI. |
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| Path for a railway—Lawa Sivas—Legends of Poo-Sa and Ya-Sa, and of Me-lang-ta the Lawa king—Story of a Yak—Descent from the Bau plateau—A courageous lady—Weird country—Ruby-mines—Reach Muang Haut—Cabbages—Tobacco-cutting—A bobbery—Fable of the peacock and the crow—Sketching the country—Conversing by signs—Interviewing the head-man—Boat-hire on the Meh Nam—Cost of carriage—Rainfall—Produce of fields—A Shan temple—Method of making images—Bargain for boats—Temperature in sun and shade, | [56] |
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| CHAPTER VII. |
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| Leave Muang Haut—Legend of the rapids—Footprints of Buddha—Power of accumulated merit—Indra’s heaven—River scenery—Fishing-dams—Loi Pah Khow—Large fish—Naked boatmen—A pleasant retreat—Wars between the Burmese and Shans—A sugar-press—Silver-mines—Path for the railway—Water-wheels—The tiger-head mountain—Pleasant mornings—A river scene—Chanting prayers—The valley of the Meh Li—Country-house of the chief of Lapoon—Viang Htau—Visit to a monastery, | [69] |
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| CHAPTER VIII. |
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| Description of Shan houses—Cabalistic charms—Superstition—Ancestral and demon worship—Shan dynasties in Burmah—Zimmé under the Burmese—Rules for house-building—Possessing a ghoul—The shadow spirit—Kissing with the nose—Furniture—Meals—Chinese chop-sticks—Spinsters—Weaving and embroidery—Dyes—Chinese hongs—Fishing—Revolt against Burmah—Zimmé and Lapoon deserted—A rest-house—Shan dialects—Entrance of the Meh Hkuang—Musical water-wheels—Brick and tile works—Houses for the demons—Houses imbedded in gardens—Light-coloured buffaloes—My first hunt in Burmah—A fine pagoda—Approach to the city—Arrive at Zimmé—American Presbyterian missions in Siam and Zimmé, | [80] |
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| CHAPTER IX. |
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| Our reception—The Mission-house—A beautiful view—A repast—Rev. J. Wilson—Ancient boundaries of Zimmé—City of Zimmé—Population—The bridge—An hermaphrodite—Youthful Dianas—Female dress—The market—Shops—The palace—Visit the king—Discussion about the railway—Prisoners in chains—Visit a princess—Shan embroidery—A great trader—Amount of caravan traffic—Number of elephants—Boat traffic, | [94] |
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| CHAPTER X. |
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| Chow Oo-boon, a spirit-medium—Consulting ancestral spirits—An exorcist—Spirit of witchcraft—Ill-treating a patient—Treatment of witches—False charges—Missionary destroys an image—Execution of Christians—Proclamation in favour of Christians—Missionaries protect witches—Undermine superstition—Ghosts perching on trees—A missionary ghost—Headless demons—A demoniac, | [105] |
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| CHAPTER XI. |
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| Visit the Siamese commissioner—Description and dress of Siamese—Deceitful officials—Prince Prisdang’s letter—Pie-crust promises—A mountebank—Call on the Princess—Treaty of 1874—Siam’s relation to Shan States—Former obstacles to trade removed—Visit from Chow Oo-boon—Assassinating a lover—Shan queen in English dress—Fast and easy-going elephants prized—Kian Yuen, an old capital—A Chinese pagoda—City of the flower-garden—Muang La Maing, the site of the first Zimmé Shan city—Ascent of Loi Soo Tayp—The pagoda of the emerald rice-bowl—Pagoda slaves—Dr M‘Gilvary joins my party—Visiting Burmese foresters—Religious buildings erected by the Burmese, | [113] |
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| CHAPTER XII. |
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| Dinner at the Princess’s—Arrangements for start completed—A passport—Our pavilion—The Zimmé plain—Leave Zimmé—Canal irrigation—Halt at Muang Doo—The Chows astray—Camp-dinners and cookery—Excellent Madras servants—Alteration in Jewan—Courtship, marriage, and divorce—Kumlung, or family patriarch and priest—Price of slaves—Slave-bondage—Foreign marriages—Serfdom in Zimmé—Formation of clans—Government masters in Siam—Crown commoners, | [125] |
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| CHAPTER XIII. |
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| Paying for supplies—Land and teak-forests belong to chiefs—Land rent—Light taxation—Leave Muang Doo—Upper Meh Hkuang—Ascend a plateau—A surprise—Luong Hkort—The Meh Hkort—Pass between the drainage of the Meh Ping and Meh Kong—Precaution against demons—Shans will not travel alone—A scare for tigers—Head-dressing and tattooing of Zimmé Shans—Charms let in the flesh—A quiet race—Villagers responsible for loss and crime in neighbourhood—Must not leave village without permission—Surveying under difficulties—The little elephant’s fun—The Meh Wung and Meh Ping—A vast plain depopulated—Timidity of elephants—Residence for demons—Reach Viang Pa Pow, | [133] |
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| CHAPTER XIV. |
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| A Chinese fortification—Chinese army destroyed by famine—Viang Pa Pow—Kiang Tung Lawas—Witch villages—An intelligent prince—Best direction for railway—Purchase an ox for food—An ancient lake—Leave Pa Pow—Upper gorge of the Meh Low—Kiang Tung Lawas a Jung tribe, and distinct from Bau Lawas—Burmese Shans—Cattle with nose-bags and masks—Effect of soil on foliage—Surprises in the jungle—Temple at Bau Meh Pik—Offerings to deceased ancestors—The valley of the Meh Sooay a game-preserve—Indications of gold—Road to Viang Pow—Lower gorge of the Meh Low—Portow, the little elephant’s playmate—Loi Kook—Loi Chang Shans returning from frontier duty—Unwarrantable action of Chinese general—Kiang Hung Shans Burmese subjects in 1886—Removal of capital—Kiang Hung annexed by British in 1888—Shans dread entering deserted temples—Deceased monks classed as demons—Worshipping deceased monks—Suicide of a princess and two of her maids—Soused by an elephant—Courtesy of the Chow Hona of Kiang Hai—An immense plain, | [142] |
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| CHAPTER XV. |
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| Princes in their best clothes—A procession—Reach Kiang Hai—Dilapidated houses—The Meh Khoke—Ngios from Moné—Kiang Hai—Former Siamese capital—Early history of Siam—Visit he chief—Population—Ruined cities—Arrangement between British Shans and Siamese Shans—Recent encroachment of Siamese—Name entered as benefactor in royal annals—Visit from La-hu—Oval faces—known by their petticoats—Monosyllabic languages difficult to translate—La-hu a Lolo tribe—Comparison of vocabularies, | [154] |
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| CHAPTER XVI. |
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| A state visit from chief—Insignia of office—Plentiful rainfall—Rain-clouds from the north—Only silver coins—Indian money—Frontier dues—Ferry toll—Fishing as a livelihood—Salt and cowries as small change—Tricks with the currency in Siam—Robbing the poor—A footprint of Buddh—A monk spoilt by the ladies—Ruined temples strewn with bronze images—Carl Bock’s loot—The emerald Buddh—A tattooed Laos Shan—Madras boys taken for ogres—Marching in single file—Scene at the ford—Cheap provisions—Chinese caravans—Cost of carriage—Opinion of Dr Cheek as to the prospects for a Burmah-China railway—Population of Siamese Shan States—Protection of caravan—Birds and monkeys dying of grief—Second visit from the La-hu—Marriage customs—Divorce—Gold in the Kiang Tung Lawa country—Fishing by torchlight, | [162] |
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| CHAPTER XVII. |
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| Leave Kiang Hai—A hot spring—Elephants without tusks—Elephant-driving—Danger when driver is careless—A large rice-plain—Bargaining with the abbot at Muang Doo—Bloodthirsty flies—Elephants as tool-users—Inhospitable ancestral spirits—Game plentiful—Utterances of tigers—A magnificent forest—A stink-wood—Water-parting between the Kiang Hai and Kiang Hsen plains—Brave butterflies—A field for an entomologist—Psyche in Burmah—A Central Asian belief—Three sacred hills—Buddha and Confucius—Legend of Loi Htong—Valley of the Meh Chan—Pass to Muang Fang—Kiang Hsen plain—Siamese aggression—Deserted cities of Manola—Tigers—Attack on Kiang Hsen in 1794—Wild animals—Legend of Muang Nŏng—Thunderstorm—Flooded country—Leaning pagoda—Reach Kiang Hsen, | [177] |
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| CHAPTER XVIII. |
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| The Meh Kong at Kiang Hsen—Ringworm—Extensive ruins—Description of city—Importance of situation for trade—Chinese settlers from Ssuchuan, Kweichau, and Yunnan—Projected railway—Surveys being made by King of Siam—Excursions from Kiang Hsen—Teak-forests—Robbing an image—Legend of Kiang Mee-ang—Ancient cities—Comparison between ancient Britons and Shans—Ancient principality of Tsen—Kiang Hung—Destruction of Kiang Hsen—Carried away captives—Treachery in war—Population of Zimmé chiefly slaves—Kiang Hsen reoccupied in 1881—Resettling it—Action of King of Siam—Friendly footing of missionaries—View across the Kiang Hsen plain—Flooded country—Leave for Kiang Hai—A white elephant—Branches as sunshades—Elephant-flies—Emigrants from Lapoon—Beautiful scenery—Mr Archer’s description of traffic along the route, | [190] |
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| CHAPTER XIX. |
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| At Kiang Hai—Ferocious dog—Chinese pack-saddles and mules—Routes from China—Articles of merchandise—Richness of Kiang Hsen plain—Visit the Chow Hona—Man killed by wild elephant—Chiefs wish for railway—Would help by granting wood for bridges and sleepers—Kamooks for labourers—Chinese Shans and Chinese would flock in for hire—Easiest route for loop-line to Zimmé—Trees laden with women and children—Dr M‘Gilvary purchases an elephant—Receives present from Chow Hona—Sunday service—Unselfishness of Dr M‘Gilvary—Lapoon immigrants—Death-rate of immigrants—Boxing—A woman in chains—Leave Kiang Hai—Young elephants a nuisance—A yellow-turbaned monk—Fireworks—Whistling rockets—Gigantic rockets at funerals—A lovely Lolo-Lawa woman—Spring blossoms—Cross the water-parting between the Meh Low and the Meh Ing—Hot springs—Houses erected for us—Fisheries—Arrive at Muang Hpan—Formation of a settlement—Emigrants to Kiang Hsen in 1887—Prosperity of country—Mr Archer’s opinion—The father of the state—Like a Highlander—Deserted cities—An ancient Christian—Viang Poo Ken—Rapid decay of buildings in a moist climate—Ants at work—Damming streams for fisheries—Injury to drainage—The Meh Ing a sluggish stream—A hare—Oppressive atmosphere—Searching for water—Boiling mud to make tea—A distressing march—City of Chawm Taung—A celebrated temple—Buddhist legend—A golden image sixty feet high—Legend of Penyow—A Buddh forty-five feet high—Gaudama existing formerly as Indra—A Shan Rachel—Reach Penyow, | [211] |
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| CHAPTER XX. |
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| Settled by Lakon—Population—Smallpox—Tutelary spirits—Ancient cities—Trade-routes and cost of transport—The centre of Ping States—A Lakon prince—Views about railway—Smallpox raging—Callousness of natives—Dr Cushing infected—Deserted cities—Famous for pottery—Gambling currency—Gambling games in Siam—Fighting crickets, fish, and cocks—Cock-crowing in Indo-China—Variation in times of new year—Gambling monopoly in Siam—Proclamation of the king—Gambling chief cause of slavery—Parents selling children into slavery—Slavery not abolished—Proclamation issued to delude foreigners—Position of people daily growing worse—A money-lender buying injustice from princes and nobles—Encouraging gambling—Gambling-house jails—State of Siamese Government monopolies—Effect of corvée labour—Burdensome taxation—No justice—General demoralisation—Shan States better governed, | [230] |
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| CHAPTER XXI. |
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| Leave Penyow—Wild roses—An inundated country—Royal funeral buildings—Posts two hundred feet long—Collection and uses of wood-oil—Description of daily meals—Water-parting between the Meh Kong and Meh Nam—Path for railway—A dead forest—Reach Muang Ngow—Settled by Lakon—Karen villages—Teak-forests—Four thousand Burmese destroyed—A distributing centre for Muang Nan and Muang Peh—Deficient rainfall—Burmese pedlars—Immigrants from Kiang Hung—A terrible din—The eclipse—Buddhist legend—Elephants should rest after noon during hot season—Leave Muang Ngow—Railway from Bangkok to Kiang Hung crosses no hill-range—Battle-field—The stone gate—Water-parting between the Meh Ngow and Meh Wung—A jolting elephant—Ban Sa-det—Offerings for the monks—Presents for the children—The Buddhist Lent—Lights for evil spirits—The demon’s lent—Offerings to the naiads—Illuminating the river—King of Siam lighting fireworks—Scaring the spirits—Offerings to naiads and demons in case of sickness—Trial by water—Superstition against saving drowning folk—Descent of the rain-god Indra—Libations—The water-feast—Bathing the images—Scene in the temple—Waking the gods with water—Propitiating the Lawa genii—The warming of Buddh—A dousing—A compliment—Calling the spirits to witness—Leave Ban Sa-det—Ruby-mines—Reach Lakon, | [246] |
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| CHAPTER XXII. |
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| Lakon and Lapoon date from the sixth century—Description of Lakon—A Christian judge—Law and justice—Punishments commuted to fines—Legend of the dipped prince—Legend of Lakon—A modern joke—Legend of the ring lake—The god of medicine—The Aswins mending an old man—Origin of quack-doctors—A Siamese doctor—Theory of disease—Medicines—174 ingredients in a dose—Draughts for the poor, pills for the rich—Medicines by pailful—Empirics—Belief in demons and witches—Mode of payment by the job—No cure, no pay—Fee to the god of medicine—Priests to the demons—Sacrifices—Contamination from lepers—Smallpox and vaccination—Filthy dwellings and furniture—No pillow-cases or sheets—Killing bugs—Villages on the Meh Wung—Dr Neis’s survey—Karen Christians—Rev. D. Webster—Dr Cushing ill—Eagerness for work—Malarious fevers—Numerous Karens in British Shan States—Trade of Lakon—Visit the chief—Cheap labour for the railway—Great heat—Burst of the monsoon, | [267] |
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| CHAPTER XXIII. |
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| Prince Bigit’s expected visit—Leave Lakon—Cicadas and their music—A battle-field—Duplicate kings of Siam—Truant elephants—Dr Cushing has smallpox—A beautiful dale—A dangerous pass—Water-parting between the Meh Wung and Meh Ping—Number of villages in the Zimmé plain—The Mai Cha-lau tree—Pagoda on Loi Tee—A cart-road—Reach Lapoon—The great temple and celebrated pagoda—Lapoon built like Aladdin’s palace—Description of city—Deserted for forty years—Visit the chief—Leave Lapoon—Scene on the road—Reach Zimmé—Report of the R.G.S. on my survey, | [283] |
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| CHAPTER XXIV. |
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| House for Dr Cushing built in two days—Fumigation and disinfection—Bribery and extortion at frontier guard-house—Travellers delayed—Mr Webster’s journey—Trade between Zimmé, Bangkok, and Maulmain; enhancement of prices—Comparison between Russia and Siam—Oppression and tyranny causes cunning and deceit—Siamese the greatest liars in the East—An amusing interview with a prince—Religious buildings in Zimmé—Description of monasteries—Bargaining with an abbot—Palm-leaf books—Evil practices of monks—Sentencing the descendants of criminals to slavery—Begging for meals—Giving, a privilege—Rules for the acolytes—Shaving the head and eyebrows—Teaching in a monastery—Learning manners, | [294] |
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| CHAPTER XXV. |
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| Leave Zimmé without interpreters—Borrow a tent—Reach Ban Pang Kai—The cry of gibbons—Legend—A primitive pagoda—Three kinds of pagodas—Description—Low plateau dividing Meh Low from Meh Wung—Branch railway from Lakon—The head sources of Meh Wung—A storm—Teak—Reach Muang Wung—Cockle’s pills—A temple at night—Tower muskets—A plague of flies—Moosurs—Dr Cushing leaves for Bangkok—His excellent arrangement—Translator of the Bible into Shan—Loss of Shan interpreters—Mr Martin joins party—Bau Lawas in Southern Siam—Arrival of Mr Gould—Elephant titles—Dinner at the Martins’—A present of cigars, | [306] |
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| CHAPTER XXVI. |
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| Leave for Muang Fang—The temple of the white elephants—Training elephants—Evening service in a temple—Legend of Wat Pra Non—Snake and Siva worship—Caravans—Stick-lac trees not cut down—The 400 footprints of Buddha—Wild tea—Visit to Shan ladies—Low dresses—Rules of hospitality—Worshipping the manes—A zylophone—Implements of expectant Buddha—Straining water—Legends of Loi Chaum Haut and Loi Kiang Dow—The palace of the angels—Demons cannot harm Christians—Christianity a great boon—Accident to aneroid—A vicious elephant—Foot-and-mouth disease—Snares for demons—A panorama of hills—Sources of the Meh Ping and Meh Teng—A river passing under a mountain—Muan Hang an ancient lake-basin—Rival claims of Ping Shans and British Shans or Ngio—The upper defile of the Meh Ping—A moonlight scene—Entangling demons at the frontier—A Chinese fort—Loi Pa-Yat Pa-Yai—Mapping the country—Dr M‘Gilvary’s sermon—Reach Kiang Dow—Petroleum at Kiang Dow and Muang Fang, | [315] |
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| CHAPTER XXVII. |
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| Kiang Dow—Invasions of Burmese Shans—Precipitous hills—Muang Hang under the Burmese—Viang Chai—Catch a Kamait—Entering monastic life—Inquisitive people—Reach Muang Ngai—View up the river—A Shan play—Visit the governor—Leave Muang Ngai—Hot springs—Loi Pa-Yat Pa-Yai—A storm in the hills—Drainage flowing in three directions—Underground streams—Difficult pass—Sinkage of ground—A sacred cave—Legend of Tum Tap Tow—Visit the cave—An unpleasant night—Large game—Threatened with beheading—Legend of the hare-lip—Building a house—Chinese forts—Trichinosis—Reach Muang Fang, | [334] |
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| CHAPTER XXVIII. |
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| Muang Fang—Deserted for 200 years—Proclamation resettling the province—Population—Settlements of Ngio ousted by Siamese—Land yielding 250-fold—Ruined cities—320 ruined temples—Purloining images—Mr Archer’s report—Method of forming new settlements—Separation of races in the cities—Colonies of refugees and captives—Chinese Shans as labourers—City sacked by the Burmese—Governor and wife drown themselves—Cost of carriage—Dr Tiger the hunter—Bargain for a dagger—Sworn brothers—Cambodian and Karen ceremonies—The augury of fowl-bones—Passing merit by cotton-threads—First hair-cutting in Siam—Lao marriage—Visit the ruined cities—Fallen idols—Putting fugitives in chains—A deer-hunt—Sketching the hills—Visit to Ban Meh Hang—Out of provisions—Fever and dysentery—Mahout attacked by vicious elephant—Spreading cattle-disease, | [347] |
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| CHAPTER XXIX. |
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| Leave Muang Fang—My comrades hunting—Those boys again: panic-stricken fisherwomen—Water-parting between the Meh Ping and Meh Kong—Railway from Zimmé to Muang Fang and Kiang Hsen—A freak of nature—Tree eight feet broad—A deer-lick—Bed without dinner—Illness of missionaries—Sitting on a snake—Head or tail, query—Emigrants carrying spinning-wheels—Cross the Meh Ngat—A beautiful plain—Viang Pow—Visit from the governor—Ngio raids—Lolo and Karen villages—Effect of monopolies—People deserting Muang Fang—Officials collecting taxes for monopolists—No gambling and opium dens—Cost of carriage—Export of rice—One son-in-law in one house—Trade-routes—Leave Viang Pow—The defile of the Meh Ngat—Accident to aneroid—A fine view—An aristocratic governor—Population—Wild tea—Light taxation—Free from vices—Put up with a Shan convert—Women well treated amongst the Shans—Cutch-trees—Reach Zimmé, | [360] |
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| CHAPTER XXX. |
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| Offering to the good influences—The spirit in sleep—The ceremony of Tum Kwun—Spirit-worship of Ping Shans—Arrangements for leaving—Visit Siamese prince—A Gatling gun as an ornament—Railway routes—Number of fighting-men—Dismiss Loogalay—Pretty pagodas—Boxing and wrestling—The bridge breaks—Presents from Chow Oo-boon—A lover’s lute—Lace prized—Dr Cushing’s views on the Ping Shans—Connection with Siam—Taxation—Corvée labour—Serfs—Slaves purchased from Red Karens—Debt slaves in chains—Religion—Field for missionaries, | [373] |
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| CHAPTER XXXI. |
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| Apathy of Siamese officials—Proposal to survey passes between Siam and Burmah—Mr Webster’s offer—Preparations for boat-journey to Bangkok—Boats and crew—Kindness of missionaries—Leave Zimmé—Number of villages—Shan embroideries—Buying petticoats—An evening bath—Shameless women—Preparing for the rapids—More bargains—Scrambling for beads—Enter the defile—Magnificent scenery—Geological changes—Underground rivers—Subsidence and periods of unrest—An earthquake-belt—Limestone cliffs—A Chinese smuggler—Roped down the rapids—Picturesque cliffs—Precipices a mile high—A waterfall—Three pagodas—Offerings to demons—Spirits of the jungle—Forming spirit-clans—Alluring travellers to death—Lascivious spirits—M‘Leod’s route—Shooting dangerous rapids—Kamook lumber-men—The pillar-rock—Pass to Ban Meh Pik—Sketching the governor—Path to Maulmain—Searching for rubies—A sambhur deer—Leave the defiles—Entrance of the Meh Wung—Paths for the railway—Silver-mines—Reach Raheng, | [390] |
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| CHAPTER XXXII. |
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| The former governor in league with dacoits—Trouble on the frontier—Dacoiting boats—Advice to a missionary—The governor of Petchaburi—A petition to the king—Robbing the people—Misgovernment of a Siamese province—Missionary’s opinion of the king—Extraordinary floods in Siam—The seasons—Flood of 1878: villages washed away—Flood of 1831—Entering the palace in boats—Boat-journeys from and to Bangkok, | [406] |
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| CHAPTER XXXIII. |
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| Growth of foreign competition for trade—Need for new markets—India and China as markets—Necessity for cheap communications—Action taken by Mr Colquhoun and myself—probable effects of the Indo-Siam-China railway—Indo-Burmese connection in course of construction—Reasons for choosing Maulmain as terminus for connection with China—Siamese section now under survey—Effects of connecting Maulmain with Siamese railway—Cost of connection—Prospective advantages—Caravan-routes from Maulmain to Raheng—Estimate for branch to our frontier—Approximate estimate for continuing the branch to Raheng—Comparison between proposed British and Russian railways—British interests in Siam—Mr Satow’s letter—Sir Arthur Phayre’s opinion on our duty to protect Siam—Connection of Burmah and Siam by railway the best form of support—Cannot allow Siam to be absorbed by France—Effect of such absorption upon Burmah—Opinions of Sir Charles Bernard—Cannot afford to hand over our markets to France—Opinion of Sir Henry Yule—Paying prospects of the branch to the frontier—Sir Richard Temple’s opinion—The most promising of all future railway lines—Effect of proposed lines—Sir Charles Bernard’s project—Comparison between Maulmain and Bhamo routes—Takaw route—Kun Lôn ferry routes—The Maulmain route or nothing—Importance of the question, | [414] |
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| CHAPTER XXXIV. |
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| Leave Raheng—Islands—Zimmé Shans in Raheng—Siamese women—Misleading strangers—“Sow” and “rat” polite terms—Reach Kamphang Pet—Saluted with stones—Found dead—Burmese—Visit the governor—The flood—Population—A female interpreter—Leave Kamphang Pet—Cultivation—Reach Pak Nam Po—Toungthoo pedlars—Navigation on the Meh Nam—Loop-line to Ootaradit—Gambling-house—A Frenchified monk—Sketching a bearded Siamese—Size of the delta—Journey to Bangkok—A long street of villages—Reach Bangkok, | [435] |
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| CHAPTER XXXV. |
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| Mr Scott—Visit to the legation—Adepts at intrigue—Mr Alabaster on Siam—Everything taxed—The revenue—Corvée labour—Impoverishing the people—The old school dying out—The iron-road a magician’s wand—King Stork—Putting a stop to cattle-theft—A piquant story—Cattle-lifting by officials—A lingering lawsuit—Extorting confessions—Torture at the police courts—The last day’s agony—Unlawful imprisonment—Inside a prison—Immorality of princes—Fit companions—Brothels in Bangkok—Selling relations—Chanting prayers—Flogging women—The biggest liars and thieves—Slavery in Bangkok, | [445] |
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| CHAPTER XXXVI. |
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| Mr Colquhoun’s arrival—Prince Devan—Character of the king—Visit to Prince Devan—Memorandum on the railways—Grant required for further exploration—Interview with the king—Terms required by syndicates—Siam’s credit—The connection with Burmah—Excursion into Eastern Siam—Nai Sin—An official of 2500 marks—Poo Bah—Golden opportunities—Trumpery fortifications—After the storm—The Bang Pa Kong river—Legend of the Kow Din—An infatuated monk—Chinese in Siam—Estimate of population—Chinese immigrants and their descendants—Marking the people—Unscrupulous Government masters—Their little games—A vast plain—Little cultivation—Lovely scenery—Tramway to the goldmines—Return to Bangkok—Dr M‘Gilvary’s opinion upon the projected railways—One of the grand works of the century, | [454] |
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| APPENDIX. |
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| Burmah-Siam-China Railway.—Resolutions of Chambers of Commerce, | [464] |
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| Index, | [475] |