| Chapter | | Page |
| Introductory Chapter | [11] |
| I. | First Impressions of Korea | [23] |
| II. | First Impressions of the Capital | [35] |
| III. | The Kur-dong | [49] |
| IV. | Seoul, the Korean Mecca | [59] |
| V. | The Sailing of the Sampan | [66] |
| VI. | On the River of Golden Sand | [71] |
| VII. | Views Afloat | [82] |
| VIII. | Natural Beauty—The Rapids | [98] |
| IX. | Korean Marriage Customs | [114] |
| X. | The Korean Pony—Korean Roads and Inns | [121] |
| XI. | Diamond Mountain Monasteries | [133] |
| XII. | Along the Coast | [150] |
| XIII. | Impending War—Excitement at Chemulpo | [177] |
| XIV. | Deported to Manchuria | [185] |
| XV. | A Manchurian Deluge—A Passenger Cart—An Accident | [192] |
| XVI. | Mukden and its Missions | [199] |
| XVII. | Chinese Troops on the March | [206] |
| XVIII. | Nagasaki—Wladivostok | [213] |
| XIX. | Korean Settlers in Siberia | [223] |
| XX. | The Trans-Siberian Railroad | [239] |
| XXI. | The King’s Oath—An Audience | [245] |
| XXII. | A Transition Stage | [261] |
| XXIII. | The Assassination of the Queen | [269] |
| XXIV. | Burial Customs | [283] |
| XXV. | Song-do: A Royal City | [292] |
| XXVI. | The Phyong-yang Battlefield | [301] |
| XXVII. | Northward Ho! | [320] |
| XXVIII. | Over the An-kil Yung Pass | [330] |
| XXIX. | Social Position of Women | [338] |
| XXX. | Exorcists and Dancing Women | [344] |
| XXXI. | The Hair-cropping Edict | [359] |
| XXXII. | The Reorganized Korean Government | [371] |
| XXXIII. | Education and Foreign Trade | [387] |
| XXXIV. | Dæmonism or Shamanism | [399] |
| XXXV. | Notes on Dæmonism Concluded | [409] |
| XXXVI. | Seoul in 1897 | [427] |
| XXXVII. | Last Words on Korea | [445] |
| Appendixes | [461] |
| Appendix A.—Mission Statistics for Korea 1896. | |
| Appendix B.—Direct Foreign Trade of Korea 1886-95. | |
| Appendix C.—Return of Principal Articles of Export for the years 1896-95. | |
| Appendix D.—Population of Treaty Ports. | |
| Appendix E.—Treaty between Japan and Russia, with reply of H.E., the Korean Minister for Foreign Affairs. | |
| Index | [475] |