LETTER XXXI.
Calculation and estimate of expenses at Paris.—List of hotels, traiteurs, &c.
Paris, may the 12th, 1802, (22 floréal.)
MY DEAR SIR,
You know how much I dislike the petty detail of economical arrangements, and will therefore pardon me for having so long delayed to speak to you of the expenses and mode of living at Paris. I have not forgotten your queries, and will, in this letter, endeavour to answer them as fully as possible. You will, at least, derive one advantage from my apparent neglect; that the information which I shall now send you, is not hastily given, but the result of experience, gained during a residence of nearly seven months.
Persons who have represented Paris (to use a vulgar phrase) as a cheap place, have either been greatly deceived themselves, or have intended purposely to deceive. The difference between the expense of living in London and in Paris, appears to me infinitely less than it is generally supposed. It is true, indeed, that a french family will apparently support a much more elegant establishment on a given income, than an english one can in London; but I believe the cause arises almost entirely from the superiour economy and arrangement of the former, from the sparing system observed in the interiour of private houses, and from the constant and unvarying attention to the minutiæ of every disbursement. Though the table of a Parisian boasts, when company are invited, every kind of luxury, yet I have reason to suspect, that, on ordinary occasions, “le bouilli[87],” and “le vin ordinaire,” form its principal support. A carriage, which has been in a family twenty or thirty years, is treated with all the respect due to its antiquity, and is seldom or ever discarded on account of its oldfashioned shape or faded colour; and horses, used only now and then, may be fed on hay and straw. Liveries are forbidden by the law; and servants are therefore permitted to wait in the tattered garments which their present master has left off, or in those which they have collected in a former service.
The drawing-rooms, and “salles à manger,” are lighted, even at the largest assemblies, with oil, instead of wax; and antichambers and staircases are so dark, that to find one’s way into the principal apartment is generally a service of difficulty, if not of danger. As to fire, on common occasions, one in the bed room either of “madame,” or “monsieur,” is thought sufficient, with the addition of a “poële,” or stove, which is so contrived, as to heat both the eating room, and the antichamber, in which latter the servants always sit. In respect to dress, an old great coat (or “riding coat,” as they call it) is often worn in the house, by gentlemen, and the belles who appear with the greatest splendour in the evening, sometimes pass their morning in a powdering gown, or “robe de chambre.”
The same kind of rigid economy is observed in their amusements. A family of distinction will occupy a box “au second, or au bagnoir[88],” to save a few livres; and I knew a young lady of considerable fortune, who expressed an anxious wish to see the first appearance of Vestris, and who, when a place was offered her, refused it, malgré the general passion for spectacles, and the celebrity of this, when she found that the price of the ticket was nine francs (or seven and sixpence english). I have entered into this explanation, to account for the apparently splendid establishments of persons of moderate fortunes, which might otherwise seem to contradict the opinion which I am about to give, and which I have already hinted.
I repeat, then, that an english family settling here[89], with english ideas and english habits, would spend very little less than they would do in London, with a similar establishment.
To enable you to judge for yourself on this subject, I shall mention the prices of the most essential articles of expense; some of which are lower, while others are infinitely higher.
Meat is much cheaper, being only eleven or twelve sols per pound (or five or six pence english).
Bread bears, at present, nearly the same price in the two countries.
The keep of horses costs infinitely less at Paris, than in London.
Poultry is cheaper; and wine of the best kind may be bought for something more than we pay for good port.
On the other hand, house rent is equally dear, if not dearer. Furniture is exorbitant; and dress of all kinds, both for men and women (only excepting shoes and gloves) is, beyond comparison, dearer in price, and more expensive in its kind.
The price of amusements, in the first places, is nearly the same at the large theatres of Paris, as at those of London; and spectacles, being infinitely more frequented at the former than in the latter city, much more is spent, in this article, in the one than in the other capital.
Groceries are dearer, and fuel at least double. Putting these articles, the one against the other, perhaps with economy eleven hundred pounds in Paris might purchase as many conveniences as twelve in London. But I think even this difference is liberally allowed.
Having given this rough calculation of family expenses, I shall proceed to speak more particularly of those of a foreigner, or temporary resident. On this point I can be more positive, having experience for my guide.
A job carriage and pair of horses cost from twenty to twenty two louis per month, according to the manner in which you are served. A pair of horses, without the hire of a carriage, may be had for fifteen or sixteen louis per month. In both cases the coachman is paid by the jobman; but the former expects a trifle, as a mark of your approbation.
A “laquais de place” asks four, but will take three, livres (or half a crown English) per day.
Apartments vary so infinitely in price, according to the part of the town where they are situate, according to the number of rooms wanted, according to the height of the floor, and, above all, according to the bargain made by the individual wanting them, that it is very difficult to fix any thing like an average. I shall only say, generally, that I think a single man may be well lodged (at a price proportioned to the accommodation which he requires) from five to twelve louis per month; and a family of two or three persons, with as many servants, from twelve to thirty louis.
A “traiteur” will supply a dinner at six livres (or five shillings) per head; but the fare will neither be very good, nor very abundant.
Wine, of the best quality, if taken from the “traiteur,” or the master of the hotel, will cost from five to six livres the bottle. The same may be had from a wine merchant at about half the price. I ought to add, that it is not expected here, as in England, that the wine should necessarily be ordered from the person who supplies your table.
The price of washing is greater than in London; and the english ladies complain much of the manner in which it is executed.
Fuel is immensely dear. A “voie de bois,” or load of wood, the contents of which one fire will consume in ten days, costs about thirty two or thirty three livres (making about twenty six or twenty seven shillings english.)
About nine livres (or seven shillings and sixpence) are paid for admittance in the first places for each person at the “opera,” at “le théâtre de la Feydeau,” and at “le théâtre de la rue Favart;” at the “théâtre françois” six livres, twelve sols, (or five shillings and sixpence english) and in the little theatres, half a crown, or three shillings. I cannot give the prices exactly, as they vary according to the manner in which you go to the play-house. In taking a box, more is paid for each ticket, than what is otherwise paid simply for the admittance of each individual at the door.
Clothing is very expensive. A plain frock of superfine cloth costs from four louis to five and a half, according to the fashion of the tailor: and I am told, that ladies’ muslins are at least four times dearer than in London.
About lodgings, it is very necessary that those who intend visiting Paris should make previous arrangements. The hotels are not so numerous as before the revolution; and the difficulty of getting well accommodated is much greater than any one, who has not been here, can possibly conceive. Great advantage is also taken of the situation of strangers, who arrive (unprepared) at one of these houses with post horses, the drivers of which are always impatient, and very often impertinent, if you detain them long in seeing rooms, or go to several hotels, before you are settled.
To enable you and your friends to form some idea of the merits of the different hotels, and accordingly to give directions to your correspondents, I will add a list and short account of the most celebrated.
“L’Hôtel de Grange Batelière, rue de Grange Batelière,” in the Chaussée Dantin, (where Lord Cornwallis lodged) is a large and spacious house, in which there are many handsome apartments. It has also the advantage of a fine and extensive garden. I think I have heard, that the charges here are rather high. The situation of the house is excellent; adjoining the Boulevard, nearly opposite “la rue de la Loi (or de Richelieu),” and in that part of the town, which is now esteemed the most fashionable.
“L’Hôtel de l’Empire,” rue Cerruti, (formerly the private house of M. la Borde, the king’s Banker) is much frequented by the english. It is of course expensive. The high reputation which this hotel enjoys, induced me to go there on my first arrival. I was much disappointed. I did not find either the lodgings good, or the cooking very superiour. The principal apartment is certainly very splendid, the price of which is ninety louis per month; but the other rooms have nothing very particular to recommend them. Every kind of refreshment is found in the house, and charged by the article, as at the hotels in London, and at about the same prices.
This house is also in the “Chaussée Dantin,” and not far distant from “l’Hôtel de Grange Batelière.”
In the “rue de la Loi,” (or “de Richelieu”) there are several hotels; but the situation, though extremely central and convenient, has the disadvantage of being very noisy. The upper part of the street, near the Boulevard, is the most agreeable; and in that position are “l’Hôtel de l’Europe,” and “l’Hôtel des Étrangers.” They appear good houses. I know nothing of their character.
“L’Hôtel d’Angleterre, rue des Filles de St. Thomas,” very near the “rue de la Loi,” has been inhabited by several English this winter. The charges are said to be expensive. The situation is convenient; but it is noisy, and surrounded by houses.
“L’Hôtel des Étrangers, rue Vivienne,” very near the “rue de la Loi,” and the “Palais Royal,” is also in the centre of the town. This house I have heard more generally commended by those who have lodged there, as to its prices, accommodations, and kitchen, than any other at Paris; but I cannot say I like the street where it stands, which is both close and dirty.
“L’Hôtel de Mirabeau, rue de Helder,” is in a new street, near the Boulevard. It seems a good house. I do not know its character.
The two hotels, the situation of which is the most agreeable, being both near the Boulevard, the Thuilleries, and the Champs Elisées, are “l’Hôtel de Courlande, place Louis XV, (or de la Concorde”), and “l’Hôtel des Étrangers, rue Royale (or de la Concorde).” The former is part of that fine building, the “Garde Meuble,” and stands in the most beautiful “place,” or square, of Paris. The windows command a delightful view of the “place,” the bridge, the river, the Thuilleries, and Champs Elisées. The house is newly furnished, and only lately opened. I am sorry to add, that it consists but of few apartments; but those which there are, are elegant and spacious. The prices are extremely high. I was asked forty louis a month for a second floor.
The other house, I mean “l’Hôtel des Étrangers, rue Royale (or de la Concorde)” standing in a very wide street, which runs from the Boulevard to “la place Louis XV,” has equal advantages as to the neighbourhood of all the public walks, with the hotel of which I spoke last; but it does not command the same view. I am forced also to mention, having lived two months in the house, that the landlord is a very insolent fellow, and his wife, if possible, more impertinent than himself.
There are three small hotels, called, “l’Hôtel de Galle,” “l’Hôtel des Quinz Vingts,” and “l’Hôtel de Carousel,” all in the immediate neighbourhood of the palace of the Thuilleries, of which each commands a view. A single man would be agreeably lodged at one of these; but I should not suppose, that there was sufficient accommodation at either for a family consisting of several persons.
In the “Fauxbourg St. Germain,” the hotels formerly frequented by the english either exist no more, or have lost their reputation. Those only which are of any repute in this part of the town, seem to be “l’Hôtel de Rome, rue St. Dominique,” where there are several handsome apartments, more remarkable for their size than their cleanliness; and “l’Hôtel de Marengo,” in the same street, and next door to the former. The lodgings of the latter are good; but some friends of mine, who lived there, complained much of the disagreeable state, in which they found the beds. Both these hotels have good gardens.
“L’Hôtel de Caramont,” in the same street, belonging to the ci-devant comte of that name, though not an “hôtel garni,” is let in apartments, the greater part of which were occupied first by Mr. Jackson, and afterwards by Mr. Merry. The rooms are delightful; but it rarely happens, that any are vacant. I forgot to mention, that there is also in this street a small hotel, called, “l’Hôtel de Jura,” which is well furnished, and has a pretty garden.
The houses, which I have enumerated, are those which are the most known, the best situate, and the most esteemed. Beside these, there are “l’Hôtel de Vauban,” “l’Hôtel de Congrès,” and “l’Hôtel de la Grand Bretagne,” all situate in “la rue St. Honoré,” and said to be respectable houses. For those also who do not object to be surrounded with bustle and noise, “l’Hôtel de la Chancellerie,” near the “Palais Royal,” will offer good accommodations. I am told, the apartments there are uncommonly elegant, and extremely spacious[90].
To this account I must add a negative recommendation of la rue Traversière, in which there are several hotels, and into which the windows of some in la rue de la Loi also look. A perpetual market, with all the attendant smells, renders the houses in “la rue Traversière” extremely unpleasant; and the same reason obstructs the passage, so that it is difficult, in a carriage, to find one’s way to any door in this street. The caution is the more necessary, as postboys frequently recommend the situation.
There is some objection to almost every hotel; I cannot, therefore, recommend any one; but, were I to visit Paris again, I think I should either try “l’Hôtel de Courlande, place Louis XV,” the situation of which is incomparable; “l’Hôtel de Grange Batelière,” which, in accommodations and size, is superior to any house of the same kind; or “l’Hôtel des Étrangers, rue Vivienne,” which is universally well spoken of by those who have inhabited it.
As to the “traiteurs,” or persons who supply you with dinners, they sometimes belong to the house where you lodge, and sometimes not.
I tried several during my stay at Paris, and I found them all so bad, and so uncertain, that, were I to return, I would either hire a cook, or dine constantly at the house of a “restaurateur[91].” The most celebrated are, Naudit, and Robert, in the Palais Royal, Beauvillier in the rue de la Loi, and Verry in the garden of the Thuilleries. Besides the public room, which is always elegantly ornamented, there is, at each of these places, several small rooms, or cabinets, for private parties. A long bill of fare, called “la carte,” consisting of all the delicacies of the season, and every variety of wine, with the prices affixed to each article, is handed to you, and the dishes are no sooner named, than they are instantly served. The apartments are tastefully decorated, the linen and plate are particularly clean, and the waiters civil, attentive, and well dressed. The cooking is incomparable. Ladies, as well as gentlemen, dine at these houses, and even in the public room several of the former are always present. On a rough calculation, the expense of dining at one of the first restaurateurs, including a fair quantity of the best wine, varies from twelve livres (ten shillings) to a louis each person.
There are, however, inferiour houses of this kind, where, even for trent-six sols (or eighteen pence english) a dinner of several dishes, and a bottle of wine, are allowed. As I never tried one of these economical repas, I cannot speak of the fare they afford. A returned “abbé” assured me, that he dined in this manner “à merveille;” but, notwithstanding his authority, I should scarcely recommend a hungry englishman to make the experiment.
In concluding my account of hotels and traiteurs, I must repeat my advice to you, to make a previous bargain for whatever you may want. In Paris, no tradesman has a settled price; and the shopkeeper or landlord, who has the most respectable appearance, is not to be trusted.
An englishman, who, from delicacy, omits to offer a smaller sum than that which is asked, may be certain, that he makes a present of at least fifty per cent to the person of whom he purchases. In every line of trade the same system is pursued; and even in buying books and plate, I have known one fourth of the original demand taken.
Strangers ought to be particularly careful, how they deal with the “marchands” of the “hôtel garni” where they lodge. They are a tribe of people, who, under the recommendation of the landlord or porter, to whom they pay a regular commission at the expense of the traveller, knock perpetually at his door, and, with the utmost importunity, insist on showing the different articles of their trade. What they sell is always dear, generally out of fashion, and frequently damaged.
In calculating the expenses of Paris, much will depend on the manner in which an individual lays out his money; and I am certain, that if a good manager and a thoughtless young man were, during a winter passed in Paris, to order exactly the same articles, and were afterwards to compare their disbursements, a difference would appear in the result, of nearly one half. It must be remembered also, that “milord anglais” (as they call every englishman) is supposed to be so very rich, and so lavish of his treasures, that he is rather flattered than offended by the largeness of the sums which he is called upon to pay; and, while a conscientious tradesman is satisfied with asking of another foreigner about forty or fifty per cent beyond the value of his goods, he fails not to demand double of him, whom, by his accent, he discovers to be a native of that happy island, in which frenchmen believe, that gold is as common as the air we breathe.
With these remarks, thrown out as a necessary caution, I shall conclude my subject; and, meaning to write to you once again, before I leave Paris, I shall, for the present, bid you adieu.
I am, &c.