The gunsmith's manual

by J. Parish Stelle; Wm. B. Harrison

COMPARATIVE SIZES OF GUNPOWDER.

Commencing with the Coarsest Grain of each Quality.

Oriental.	Orange.	Hazzard.	Dupont.
Common Sporting.
	C		Fg
Fg	Fg	Fg	FFg
FFg	FFg	FFg	FFFg
FFFg	FFFg	FFFg
Fine Sporting.
Falcon		American
No. 1		No. 1
” 2		” 2
” 3		” 3
			E. R.
Fine Ducking.
Falcon & Wild Fowl.
No. 4	No. 5	No. 5	No. 1
” 3	” 4	” 4	” 2
” 2	” 3	” 3	” 3
” 1	” 2	” 2
Best Quality Sporting.
Di’mond Grain.	Lightning	Electric.
No. 4	No. 7	No. 4
” 3	” 6	” 3
” 2	” 5	” 2
” 1	” 4
Fg			Diamond Grain.
FFg
FFFg

Dupont’s Eagle Rifle powder is the finest grain of sporting powder made; Oriental Falcon Sporting, No. 3 grain, is the nearest to it in size.

CHAPTER XXXIV.
MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES.

Soft Soldering.—Soft solder, so called, is a composition made by melting together two parts tin and one part lead. If the gunsmith ever has occasion to use it, he will need a soldering fluid, which is made by dropping clippings of zinc into muriatic acid until ebullition has ceased, then adding to the acid its equal in bulk of pure water, although some mechanics do not consider the addition of water as necessary.

Clean thoroughly the parts to be soldered together, then wet them with the soldering fluid. Next place in the joint a thin bit of the soft solder, and expose to heat, the heating agent to be clear of oil. The pieces should be held, pressed between the blades of large tweezers, so that when the solder melts the two parts will come directly together. So soon as the solder melts, the work must be taken from the fire, as the soldering will be complete. A little longer exposure would burn the solder and spoil the work.

Good Soft Solder.—Good soft solder is composed of equal parts of pure tin and good soft lead. The lead from old tea-chests is excellent. Plumbers’ solder is often made of lead three parts and tin one part.

Soldering Fluid.—A soldering fluid for jewelers’ use is made by adding to alcohol all the chloride of zinc it will dissolve.

Brazing.—This consists in uniting iron and other hard-melting metals with a brass solder. Put the parts together as for soft soldering, lay the brass between the pieces or along the upper edge of the joint, if it can be held vertically, and add a goodly supply of pulverized borax to act as a flux. Heat over a charcoal fire till the brass melts and runs down into the joint, then take from the fire and cool. Before beginning the operation of brazing the parts to be put together must be made entirely clean, and then freshly filed to brightness.

To Braze Lugs on Gun Barrels.—When not practicable to fasten the lugs by means of pins or rivets, hold them in place with binding wire. Take a piece of iron, say ¼ inch thick and 2 inches or more in width, and make in it a slot some larger than the lug to be brazed. Lay the barrel on the iron sideways, and pack up the lug so as to lie level, if necessary, also taking care that it is on straight. Pure copper is excellent for all kinds of brazing, when the color of the copper is not objectionable.

Hard Soldering.—See “To Solder Brass,” in [Chapter XII], which about covers the whole thing, varying only in the composition of the solder for different metals. The brass solder there described acts equally well for soldering copper, but for silver a solder is made composed of two parts silver and one part brass.

Hard Solders.—1. A hard solder that is yellow and easily fusible is made of copper, 4½ parts, and zinc, 5½ parts.

2. To hard solder iron use good tough brass or sheet copper, with borax as a flux.

3. Pure copper, cut in thin strips, with borax as a flux, is excellent for brazing iron or steel.

Alloy for Adhering to Iron or Steel.—Melt together, tin 3 parts, zinc 7½ parts, and copper 39½ parts. Clean the iron or steel, file to brightness and cast the alloy upon it. The iron or steel should be heated up to about the melting temperature of the alloy. This alloy will adhere firmly to the other metal, and as its rate of expansion is about the same as the iron or steel, under all circumstances, it will never come loose. It finishes up nicely and presents a very neat, light yellow appearance. Some gunsmiths use it for brazing purposes on account of its adhesive properties and its ease of fusion. It does not make so strong a joint as brass or copper, and therefore would not give so “honest” a job.

Gun Oil.—A good quality of sperm oil is undoubtedly the best oil to apply to gun work, especially the locks. Any fine animal oil may be used as a substitute. The oil from the fat of the woodchuck or ground-hog is admired by many. Fine quality of sewing-machine oil is very good. It must not be thinned or “cut” with kerosene or benzine, as this reduces its wearing quality. It must not thicken with exposure to the cold.

Vegetable oils are unfit for the locks of guns. Castor oil will gum up and become filthy in the extreme. Olive oil or “sweet oil” has very often been agitated, with common salt, nitric ether, sulphuric acid or hydrochloric acid to keep it from becoming rancid. Application of such oil, in addition to its bad lubricating quality, will rust and spoil work where applied.

If desired to clarify oil, put in a bottle, say a quart of oil, and add about half a pound of fine lead shavings. In a short time the impurities will collect on the lead, when the clarified portion may be poured off. Let the bottle stand in the sun for two or three weeks during the process, and then filter through fine white blotting-paper. If some portion be found to congeal by cold, separate the clear portion from the other, reserving the uncongealed for use during exposure of the gun to cold weather.

Gunsmith’s Glue.—Dissolve four ounces of good glue in sixteen ounces of strong acetic acid by exposure to gentle heat. This is not exactly a liquid glue preparation—it is only semi-liquid. It may be kept for any length of time desired, and, when wanted for use, a slight warming up is all the preparation necessary. The gunsmith finds it not only very convenient, in case he should have occasion to use glue about his woodwork, but also very good.

CHAPTER XXXV.
ON JUDGING THE QUALITY OF GUNS.

The Muzzle-Loading Shot-Gun.—In the days when the gun of this character was at its zenith, its quality could be approximately decided upon by a glance at the manufacturer’s brand which it bore, but at present that rule cannot be so safely trusted. Many of the houses which built for themselves a fine reputation by the manufacture of fine guns of the muzzle-loading order, have either ceased to exist, or have gone exclusively into the manufacture of breech-loaders, consequently the old brands, though they may still be met with, are not reliable. In truth they are more often dangerous signs than otherwise, in consequence of the fact that unscrupulous manufacturers not unfrequently apply them surreptitiously as an agent to aid in working off their bogus goods. It is, therefore, best to give brands but little consideration in judging the quality of new muzzle-loaders, trusting mainly on personal knowledge as to what a good gun should be, backed up by thorough test in all cases where such a thing is necessary.

The man capable of becoming a good gunsmith will require no special rules for his government in this matter. He will know that a steel gun is preferable to an iron gun, and he will be able to readily distinguish between steel and iron. He will also know that a gun finely finished in every particular, is, undoubtedly, a better gun than one put together in the rough, and his own eyes will quickly tell him as to the finish. Prompted by these considerations, the muzzle-loading shot-gun is turned over to the good sense of the gunsmith for adjudgement as to superior or inferior qualities, leaving him to decide upon it, unbiased by any rules that could be given, which is the most rational course to pursue, since, under existing circumstances it would be impossible to make rules that would be entirely reliable.

The Muzzle-loading Rifle.—In the case of the old-fashioned Kentucky rifle, still on the market in limited numbers, eyesight and test, if necessary, will have to be the main reliance of the gunsmith in judging of quality. The barrel of a first-quality gun of this character is wrought iron, made eight-square, and finely finished. The lock is steel, well put up, and provided with double or set triggers. The stock is either black-walnut or maple highly polished and oil-finished. The bore is given as perfect a degree of finish as iron is capable of taking, and the rifles are deeply-cut and entirely regular all the way through. The sights are made with great care, some of the finest guns having an elevating hind-sight to be changed for long or short range—say, for 500 or 50 yards. In some of the older made guns the foresights are silver, though as a general rule they are made of some kind of white metal compound not so liable to glimmer as silver. The tube-cylinder has a vent screw in the end of it, which may be taken out for the purpose of working in powder in case a ball should have been accidently put down without powder, which accident, without this provision, would be apt to necessitate an unbreeching of the gun. The barrels are of different lengths, ranging from 26 to 40 inches, and the size of bore is equally varied. It is usually estimated by the number of round bullets a pound of lead will cast to fit it, as 200 (smallest bore), 175, 100, and so on down to 50, which is considered the largest bore in common use. The weight of the gun complete usually ranges at from six to twelve pounds.

A steel-barrel rifle made on the Kentucky plan may be met with occasionally, though not often. The steel barrel generally adds about five dollars in cost over that of the iron barrel finished in the same way, and is supposed to be at least that much better on account of less liability to wear and roughen in the bore.

The muzzle-loading rifle of more modern style differs very materially from the old Kentucky rifle in many respects. Mr. Barber, in his “Crack Shot,” says of it that so many changes are constantly taking place, and opinions are so diversified, that it is really difficult to state what is the prevailing style; but he is of opinion that a barrel of from thirty to thirty-four inches in length, with a bore from thirty-eight hundredths inch to forty-four hundredths inch will be found to answer best for general purposes. If for sporting purposes exclusively the barrel ought to be a little shorter, perhaps, though he believes the great hunters of the plains use rifles with barrels of from thirty five to forty inches in length, and of a calibre so small as to enable them to make sixty round balls out of one pound of lead.

But, still adopting Barber, it is very difficult to lay down particular rules as to what a muzzle-loading rifle of modern style should be, as marksmen and gunmakers are both whimsical, and each has his set ideas and notions concerning the matter. Some advocate a long barrel, while others maintain that anything beyond thirty-three inches militates against good shooting.

There are many prominent establishments engaged in the manufacture of modern muzzle-loading rifles, some of them carrying splendid reputations, hence in this case a good deal of reliance can be placed upon brands. For instance, should a rifle be seen marked to Wesson, it is a guarantee of a good gun, for the reputation of the manufacturer is worth too much to admit of risking its tarnish by putting upon the market goods bearing his brand that are not fully up to all that is claimed for them.

And now that reference has been made incidentally to Wesson, a description may as well be made of some of the peculiarities of his muzzle-loading rifle as presenting a fair sample of a first-class gun of this order. And to do this under the best of authority, reference is made to Mr. Chapman’s book on the Rifle, which is generally accepted as a standard work.

Referring to the Wesson muzzle-loading rifle, Mr. Chapman says that the barrel is made of cast steel, not highly carbonized, but thoroughly annealed in an air-tight oven. The length of the barrel is two feet eight inches when the loading muzzle is off. Outside, the barrel tapers a little from breech to muzzle, the difference in diameter being one fourth of an inch. The barrel is not furnished with a rib, except it be that the short tube at the breech can be called a rib, the peculiarity of stocking doing away with the necessity for a regular rib. The gun has a patent breech, which is made of iron case-hardened. It is joined to the break-off by the old-fashioned hook, with the addition of a half-lap joint, secured by a square-headed screw. Such a mode of fastening the barrel destroys the necessity for wood forward of the breech, and gives a peculiarly elegant and striking appearance to the arm. The loading-muzzle is put on by means of four steel wire pins about one-eighth of an inch in diameter and three-eighths long, and the holes for these pins are located as near the outside as possible.

The grooves of this rifle are cut with a twist, which turns the bullet once in three feet six inches. There are six grooves, and the spaces between them are left entirely square to the interior surface, presenting a kind of dove-tail appearance. The grooves are not quite so wide as the spaces between them. The breech is furnished with a vent or breathing nipple, about the diameter of a common pin, and bushed with platinum. The lock has back-action, furnished with a single set. The stock is of black walnut, made as straight as possible. It is furnished with a patch box, and also a small box to contain a wiper, which can be attached to the end of the ramrod. A globe sight is fixed into the stock, just behind the break-off, while a bead sight holds position at the muzzle-end of the barrel. The weight of the gun complete is ten pounds.

Of course it will be clearly understood that this description is not offered as of the best muzzle-loading rifle made, but simply because it happened to be convenient to make. There are, doubtless, other guns equally as good, and a preference of one over the other, in all probability, would have to be born of circumstances, as something peculiar in the tastes or requirements of the person by whom the gun was to be used, or in the particular line of use to which it was to be applied.

The Breech-loading Shot Gun.—Gloan tells us that, in judging the quality of a breech-loader, there are other things to be taken into consideration besides the mere shooting of the gun. First among these is its safety relative to the person using it. There is more machinery and complication about it than there is about the muzzle-loader, and to that extent, if not made upon sound principles, and perfectly well made, it is more dangerous, to say nothing of being less durable.

But the principle must be a prime consideration, for, if a gun, no matter how well made, is constructed with a working movement which presents great strain and great friction, it must speedily wear out. Even the best breech-loader, with the soundest known action, must wear out sooner than would an arm of less complication, because some peculiar strain and friction cannot possibly be avoided; hence the great importance of passing judgment entirely favorable upon only the best.

The first thing to decide upon, then, is the principle upon which the gun works. No special rules can be given to govern in the formation of this decision other than that simplicity is always worthy of favorable consideration—the greater the simplicity the better, provided it works to the full accomplishment of all the ends desired. Next to simplicity may be ranked durability, and next to this may come in good shooting and safety. These last two considerations are put as third and fourth, when many persons would be inclined to rank them as second and first. Why this is done is because many of the most common guns are safe enough, so far as that is concerned, while not a few of them shoot very well for a while.

Some most excellent shooting has been done with extremely common guns, working upon a principle so complicated and so imperfect as to render it impossible for them to remain in order beyond a comparatively short length of time.

The English manufacturers, of good reputation, take great pains with their breech-loading shot-guns; hence, until within a very few years, English guns were considered entirely superior to those of American make, but now it is acknowledged, even by the English people, that in America we put up, at least, some guns that have no superiors. This last named fact has somewhat destroyed the weight of English brands with persons who are looking for a gun of the very best quality. But the advance on the part of American gunmakers is not the only thing that has worked against the reputation of English guns for being eminently the best. The gun-making business of Belgium has seriously injured the general good name of English guns, just as the watch-making business of Switzerland has injured the good name of English watches. For instance, Liege, in Belgium, is almost literally a city of gunmakers. It is estimated that there are now more small fire-arms made in Liege than in all the rest of the world put together, though Liege gets credit for comparatively few of them. The different parts are manufactured there, and shipped to other countries as gunmakers’ materials, where they are put together and branded with the name of a maker who really played no part whatever in the making. In Liege each manufacturing house is devoted to the manufacture of but a single part, knowing nothing whatever of the other parts manufactured at other establishments. As a result the gun made of Liege materials is simply a patchwork, and hence could not possibly be so reliable as a gun whose every part is made in the same establishment, and under the eye of the same general superintendent. England has gone largely into the putting up of these patchwork guns, simply for the reason that she can buy the Liege materials much cheaper than she can make them at home. This cheapness is due to the inferior materials used by the Liege manufacturers, and to the extremely low rate of wages in Belgium. It is asserted, upon good authority, that the English “manufacturer” can get his finished materials from Liege, paying regular Government duty, and put together what would appear to be a fair quality of double-barrel breech-loading shot-gun, at the cost of about seven dollars. And he does it, giving the gun to the market under his own brand, or surreptitiously under that of some other house known to be more reliable than his own. As a consequence, English reputation is sadly injured as regards the business of making the best guns, and gunsmiths can no longer trust to English brands as a sure guarantee of first-class quality. Of course there are some English manufacturers whom it will always do to trust, provided one knows to a certainty that the gun is really genuine.

If that patchwork game is played in this country at all it is on a small scale as yet, and is confined to the cheapest guns. A gun from any of our prominent houses is quite sure to be as represented; and, until the gunsmith becomes so familiar with all the requirements of a good gun, the maker’s price may be taken as a pretty safe rule by which to judge of quality. Each manufacturing house is apt to have its guns graded, and priced accordingly—the higher the price asked the better the gun in every case, for it is as much the desire of the prominent manufacturer to make a good name as it is to make a good gun.

Of course this rule can only be considered entirely safe in case where the scale of prices has been obtained directly from headquarters. Passing through half a dozen or so of middle houses might work important changes from the original price list.

Where none of these rules can be brought to bear it is but natural that the inexperienced gunsmith should turn to his Manual for aid in forming judgment upon the quality of the gun. A few general ideas may not be out of place.

All the movements of the action should be smooth, and all the joints should fit to perfection. The locks should have due consideration. When the hammer is drawn back it should come with less and less resistance as it rises, and vise versa when the hammer is let down, exerting its greatest power immediately on reaching the nipple or firing-pin. But this increase and decrease of power should be extremely gradual, and not great. Throughout the movement there should be a steadiness and freeness, or, as Gloan says, an oiliness, which when once realized, can never afterwards be mistaken. And when by a regular pressure upon the trigger the hammer is expertly raised and lowered in rapid succession, the locks should emit a clear ringing sound at the whole and half-cock with the resonance and regularity of beats in music. When once heard, this, too, can never afterwards be mistaken. The locks which perform to perfection under the tests mentioned are technically said to “speak well.”

Turning from the lock to the lever, the latter should close with such ease as not to require any particular exertion of the wrist, and when closed it should hold with such a degree of firmness as to place safety, while discharging the gun, entirely beyond question. The wedges of the action should be fully and squarely set in the lump.

If a pin gun the pin should fit in the hole with nicety. If too tight, the barrels might not close, or the pin might be held back to such an extent that the cap would not be exploded. If too loose an unnecessary escape of gas at the discharge would be unavoidable, to the discomfort of the gunner and the weakening of the shot.

If a central fire the plungers should strike the centre of the cap unvaryingly. The hammer should come upon the plunger with a blow—not a mere push.

The countersink of the chambers, and the length and breadth of the action bed, should be closely observed. The countersink should be cut clean and deep enough to take the rim of the cartridge without leaving the slightest projection—else the gun will not shut perfectly. But if, on the contrary, the countersink be too deep the cartridge comes back on the breech before the charge makes its exit, which increases the recoil and renders accuracy less certain.

The central fire strikers should not be too short, an imperfection which might cause the discharge of the gun while closing it. On the other hand, they should not be too long, as that would interfere with the free motion of the gun. In the case of a pin gun the pin should invariably stand in exact line with the hammer, otherwise the blow would be apt to bend it, and the chances for exploding the cap would be less certain.

There should be no crevices between the wood and iron. If any such crevice exists between the stock and the false breech it is likely that the wood was green when put up, which would settle it that the gun was not the work of a responsible maker, for no such person would work imperfectly-seasoned wood.

The extractor of the central fire should never be permitted to escape the closest scrutiny. It should work without the slightest hitch, and its arms should enclose about one-half of the cartridge rim. The countersink should fit the rim precisely, in order that there may be no slipping.

The Breech-Loading Rifle.—Most of the rules suggested as aids in forming judgment upon the quality of the breech-loading shot gun, can be trusted as bearing with equal force in case of the breech-loading rifle. The makers of breech-loading rifles in the United States have won for themselves a noble reputation throughout the world; and, to be perfectly plain, there are very few unreliable manufacturers to be met with among them. As a consequence, there is not much risk to run in passing judgment upon a breech-loading rifle of American make. The first thing to decide upon is the principle, if there is a preference in this direction. Such decision brings up the gun of some particular maker, after which the road is easy enough—the price set upon the grade of gun by the maker, may always be accepted as a clear indication of its quality.

In referring thus to American rifles the idea is not advanced that good guns are not made in other countries—such a position would be going wide of the truth. There are some gunmakers in England who turn out the finest rifles that the world has yet seen, and the most costly. They are models of perfection in every particular, but when the best shooting is ascertained it is discovered that they have not proven themselves superior in that respect, to the more substantial (generally speaking), but less finely finished and less expensive guns of the American makers. It is this matter of a really good rifle at comparatively low figures that has given the American product such an enviable reputation throughout the world.

Then there is another reason for favorable mention of American rifles in cases where the quality of the gun is to be judged—there are fewer chances for meeting with counterfeits on American guns than there are on guns of foreign make. Here the gunmaker is so deeply concerned in his own good name that it would be very unsafe to attempt running a “bogus” upon him—he would trace it to the “last ditch.” Not so in case of the English maker—having no direct interests thrown all over this country like a network, as have the American makers, he would, in all probability, never hear of the bogus gun branded to him and sold on his good reputation for many times more than it was really worth.

In case where there are no means of getting at the quality of a rifle from the grade affixed and tests made by a responsible manufacturer, the gunsmith will of course be forced to fall back upon his own resources. What these are we need not state. The gun must be subjected to a most critical examination in every part, in obedience to rules laid down for examining breech-loading shot guns, after which its shooting qualities must be thoroughly tested. To no botch at the business can be trusted the shooting test, if it be wished to decide whether or not a certain rifle can be recommended as being of first-class quality—the work must be performed at the hands of an expert, and it must be continued until is secured unmistakable proof as to how the gun shoots. When a man buys a good rifle he does it in the expectation of becoming the owner of a gun qualified to shoot well, and, no matter how perfect it might be in all other respects, the slightest deficiency in this particular would be sure to rouse a high degree of uncompromising dissatisfaction.

CHAPTER XXXVI.
ON USING THE RIFLE.

The Old Kentucky Rifle.—The old backwoods hunters who used the long Kentucky rifle, had really but a very imperfect idea of its capabilities. The gun was provided with a hind and a fore-sight, the latter a “bead” located near the muzzle and rising but little above the common level of the surface of the barrel, and the former a small vertical plate set in the barrel a short distance in advance of the lock, and containing in the centre of its upper edge a fine slit through which to look at the “bead” in the act of taking aim. The hind-sight stood further above the barrel than the fore-sight, but why it so stood was something about which the owner seldom concerned himself. Of course the gunsmith knew it was for the purpose of setting the “aim” below the starting line of the bullet, in order that the natural curve in its flight might be accommodated, but this was usually a secret of the gunsmiths which nobody cared to possess. The sight was immovable, could neither be raised nor lowered, consequently the gun could not be adapted to circumstances of long or short range. The elevation of the sight usually crossed the line of vision and that of the flight of the bullet at about one hundred yards distance, hence the shooting at shorter range was apt to be a little too high and too low at longer range. At two hundred yards it was merely accidental, though the bullet struck with a degree of force apparently unabated at that distance. If the hunter killed his game at two hundred yards, he did it by aiming a few feet too high for a “sight” at one hundred yards, consequently he never shot at that distance so long as there was a prospect of being able to creep nearer. And yet, with the right kind of elevated sight the gun would have been equally as effectual at two hundred yards as at one hundred; in truth it would have been good for four and perhaps six hundred yards, but the old hunter had not so much as a dream of any such thing, but went creeping about through the woods endeavoring to steal upon his game, unconsciously carrying upon his shoulder an instrument that with so simple a contrivance as an elevated sight of proper grade might have brought it down almost as far as the eye could have seen it. And the game well knew the limited capacity of his gun, particularly the deer, which would frisk off to the distance of about three hundred yards and there stop, turn around, stamp their feet and “whistle” at him in apparent derision. Ah! that he had understood the real capabilities of his gun, and had suddenly invented and applied an elevated or long-range sight made after some of the approved modern plans, how he would have astonished them!

In those days of pioneer life in the States now no longer on the frontier, “match shooting” (it was not called target shooting, then) was always confined to a certain distance, sixty yards off-hand or one hundred yards with a rest. The marksman was permitted to take his own choice of modes. “Shooting matches” were very common in those earlier times, usually for beef. A fat ox was put up to be shot for at so much per shot, something on the plan of the modern raffle. When the amount asked for the animal had been made up, the shooting commenced. The best shot took first choice, which was one of the hind quarters of the ox, the second best took second choice, which was the other hind quarter; the third best took third choice, which was one of the fore quarters, and so on to the fifth choice, which consisted of the hide and tallow. Happy occasions, indeed, were those old “shooting matches,” and splendid, indeed, was some of the shooting. A regular attendance upon numerous target matches of more modern times, with all the modern appliances, in the hands of marksmen with national reputations, has never shown us better shooting at sixty yards, off-hand, or one hundred yards with a rest.

General Directions.—Mr. Edward C. Barber, author of the “Crack Shot,” says the greatest care and nicety is required in loading any kind of rifle, if we desire to have it shoot with accuracy. A few grains too much or too little powder will alter the range of the bullet, and the bullet itself, if not placed in the barrel exactly right, in the case of the muzzle-loader, will come out at an irregular angle, and, instead of going straight to the mark, will be turned sideways. This trouble is avoided by the use of a “starter,” to be had at any gun store.

Supposing that a young man has just possessed himself of a rifle, but who knows nothing of its use save such information as he has been able to gather from mere theorists. He makes choice of a suitable place for taking his first practical lesson, where there is no danger of inflicting harm upon disinterested persons. He puts up his target and steps off fifty yards, or it might be better to measure it more accurately than by stepping.

Suppose the gun to be a first-class modern muzzle-loader. The target is now arranged; proceed to load. Grasp the barrel of the gun near the muzzle; turn it round so that the lock is outward, then pour from the flask the proper charge of powder, using the charger which the gunmaker has furnished. Be sure that the charger is exactly full—no more nor less. Pour the powder gently down the barrel, holding the latter upright so that none of the powder will lodge in the grooves or rifles. Get ready a “patch,” which has been previously prepared by oiling on one side a piece of fine but substantial linen with sperm oil such as is used for sewing machines, and cutting out with a “patch-cutter,” always to be had with a new gun. Place this patch over the muzzle, oiled side downward, and then set the bullet perfectly straight and true in the muzzle, and with the “starter” press it downward two or three inches, using the ramrod to force it home. Avoid the common error of “ramming” home the bullet, for two reasons: firstly, because the bullet being jammed on the powder meals and grinds it, thereby depriving it of a portion of its strength, and, secondly, because injury is done to the face of the ball, which works against its taking a perfectly true and accurate flight. The old plan of making the ramrod rebound to prove that the ball was home, as mentioned in another chapter, was wrong. Nothing more than a moderate pressure is necessary, and if you are not willing to trust to this a mark on your ramrod, to come exactly to the muzzle when the ball is entirely down, will always tell the tale. Now place a cap on the tube or nipple, which is, doubtless, full of powder, and the “shootist” is ready for operations.

There are two modes of shooting with a rifle: off-hand, and with a rest, as has already been intimated. Choose the mode that suits best, and begin practice.

Off-hand Shooting.—Barber says the position which should be chosen for off-hand shooting is one that admits of a good deal of discussion. There is great difference of opinion on the subject, some good shots contending that they never could see any difference in their shooting, whether they were in one position or the other; while others maintain that it is absolutely necessary to good shooting that certain fixed rules should be adhered to. There are three recognized methods of firing, viz., the British or Hythe position, the Swiss position and the American position. In the first named, the rifleman stands perfectly erect, head slightly bent forward, feet at right angles to each other, the left advanced about twelve inches, the right arm raised well up, the left hand advanced so as to take a firm yet easy grip of the rifle, the butt of which is to be pressed firmly against the right shoulder, the right hand grasping firmly the small of the stock. Captain Heaton describes the second method, or Swiss position, by stating that no particular manner of placing the feet is required. The whole body is kept perfectly rigid, the chest expanded as much as possible, against which the left elbow is allowed to rest, the rifle being held with the left hand as near the trigger guard as it can be placed. The Swiss rifles have a kind of handle provided for this purpose. The upper part of the body is thrown back. Before firing the Swiss marksman invariably takes a long, deep inspiration, which he holds until the bullet has left his rifle, when he breaks the suspension with a loud grunt of satisfaction if the shot happens to please him. In the American position, to draw again from Barber, the legs are kept wide apart, body slightly bent backward, the left shoulder a little back; with the left hand he grasps the rifle well out, bringing the arm nearly under the barrel, so as to form a support; the right arm is thrown out square, similar to the style adopted in the English position. The butt of the rifle is not pressed against the shoulder, but in the hollow between the biceps muscle and the shoulder. Cleveland prefers this method to that of the English, but Barber does not, as he considers it more constrained than the other.

But, of course, great men must differ; the world could not get along all right were it otherwise. The matter of method had best be left to stand as a matter of taste, or of feeling as to convenience to the marksman, as very good shooting has been done through all of them.

Having settled this point, bring the rifle up carefully into position, the eye being steadily fixed upon the object to be fired at; slowly raise the barrel until the sights and the object are in direct line, and the instant that this condition is fully apparent press upon the trigger, still keeping the eye steadily on the mark.

It is always best to hold the breath at the instant of firing; and in pressing the trigger the forearm alone should act, the arm and wrist being stationary. No other movement of the body or any member thereof should take place between the time of securing aim and discharging the gun. The aim should be quickly taken—a long dwell, with wabblings on and wabblings off the mark is apt to do more harm than good. On this point Frank Forrester says: “Though it is necessary to get a sure aim before firing, it is not necessary to dwell on it before doing so. Every second between having taken true sight and the giving fire is a second lost, or worse than lost; for the longer the rifle is held to the face, the greater the tension of the muscles and nerves, and the likelier are both to shake and give way. The first true sight is always, with all fire-arms, the best sight, and a quick shot has as much or more advantage over a slow shot, with the rifle as with any other weapon.” Barber says he considers “the pull of the trigger a very important consideration; it should not be too slight, so as to go off almost involuntarily, nor so hard as to require force, but so that, by a gentle pressure, commenced at the moment of taking aim, the slightest extra squeeze will cause the hammer to fall at the very instant when the aim is perfected.”

Rest Shooting.—If the old-fashioned backwoods hunters shot with a rest at all that rest had nothing complicated about it, being usually only the side of a tree. The rifle was brought up against the side of a tree and pressed there with the left hand, which held it pretty much after the plan employed in the American method of off-hand shooting. If the object to be fired at was occupying an elevated position, as a squirrel among the branches of a neighboring tree, this kind of rest was a very easy and good one, but it was not so easy where a horizontal shot had to be made. In match-shooting with a rest the most common plan was to lie upon the ground, face downward, somewhat in the natural position of a swimmer, and put the gun out in front, its muzzle resting upon a small log or block of wood. These plans are still more or less in vogue in all regions where the old-style Kentucky rifle remains in common use.

The most popular modern rest, according to Barber, is to have a bench made about three and a half feet long and ten inches wide, with four stout legs standing out at considerable angle. The height should be about level with the breast when sitting down. At one end place a stout piece of wood about five or six inches high, crosswise, with notches cut in it to lay the barrel in. It should be well covered with cloth or some other soft material, and should be securely fastened to the bench. The end of the bench nearest the shooter may be hollowed out a little for the breast to fit in. This is a rest for target shooting—it would not be well suited for the hunter to carry around in the woods with him, of course.

The same authority tells how to make a cheaper rest, by tying three moderately stout sticks together near the top, and then throwing out the other ends upon the ground after the manner of the feet of a tripod. Place your coat in the crotch formed at the top to rest your rifle upon—that is all there is of it.

Having decided upon the kind of rest to be used, the question of rest-shooting is settled, as everything else is performed the same as in shooting off-hand. Most modern sportsmen object to rest-shooting to such an extent that no artificial rest is admitted at their target matches. Their reasons for such objections are that a rest is an inconvenient arrangement that could not be employed either in war or field-sports, and hence, people ought to learn to shoot well without it. And they do, but in many instances they shoot with a rest at last, making one of themselves by lying upon the ground and shooting off the knee or some other part of the person, or by setting the elbows upon the ground so as to brace with the gun as permanently as any artificial rest could possible be. The methods employed by the noted marksmen, Messrs. Fulton and Bodine, were of this character.

CHAPTER XXXVII.
ON USING THE SHOT-GUN.

Born Shooters.—Every man who uses a gun at all will feel an ambition to use it skillfully, and when he finds himself falling short of his aspirations he will apply to his gunsmith for instructions, for the gunsmith is expected to set the owner all right as well as his gun. There will be some difference in results to the gunsmith, however, for when the gun gets out of fix, and the gunsmith repairs the imperfections, the owner expects to pay for services rendered, but not so with reference to himself. He will expect the gunsmith to spend an hour or so in telling him how to shoot, but it will not occur to him that time is worth the same in dollars and cents spend it as we may, hence he will never think of tendering the slightest remuneration for the time consumed in giving him instructions. We have often thought that a chapter in some book telling about all there is to tell the novice on the subject of shooting would be worth a great deal to the gunsmith, as he could turn it over to his inquiring customers and go on about his work, leaving them to sift out from the “black and white” the information desired, taking their own time for it, and digesting everything in accordance with their own notions. And right here, it may be remarked, is a proper place to put in just such a chapter, which is done without further preface.

Some popular writer has said that, like the poet, the first-class shot with a gun, or the “dead shot,” as he is often called, must be born such—he cannot be made. Good shooting is a fine art, and in none of the fine arts can perfection be acquired where there does not exist a natural talent, or natural capacity, if the term be better. Any man with fair calculation and a reasonably good mechanical eye may, by practice, become a very passable shot, but without this peculiar natural requirement, which no one can clearly explain, it will be impossible for him to ever excel as an expert marksman.

It is not often that a real born shot is met with—they are about as scarce as true poets and true painters. When one does meet with him one soon knows him, if there is any shooting going on. Perhaps he is at his first shooting match. He does not know himself as a “shootist,” possibly. Curiosity alone, it may be, prompts him to try a shot, so he takes the gun, and wholly without study or previous experience, blazes away, and, to the astonishment of all present, shoots almost to perfection. It is in him as a gift. Some peculiar balance in his organization is the cause of it, and it is folly to be envious even in the least degree. Nor is it worth while to despair because such a peculiar balance of organization did not happen to fall to “our” lot. If there be a wish to succeed, a little patient study, industry and practice may soon bring the “shootist” up to the average at least, and that will leave no reasonable cause for complaint.

How to Shoot.—This part of the subject need not be brought down to the simple operation of merely discharging a gun, for it is supposed that every person with common sense, and old enough to handle a gun would know how to discharge it when loaded. What is meant, then, by “how to shoot,” is how to shoot well, and to enable any one to do this, one of the most important requisites lies in taking aim on the object at which is expected to be shot. Most young gunners close one eye in this operation, which, according to the best authorities, is entirely wrong. A man will learn to take correct aim with a shot-gun much sooner by keeping both eyes naturally open than he will by holding one closed. Once got in the habit of shooting with a closed eye, it will be found a most difficult habit to break up—the “hiding eye” will “close up” just as the finger is being pressed upon the trigger. And with that “closing up” is very apt to come a deviation of the gun from the line of correct aim.

Some years ago Mr. Dougall, in his “Shooting Simplified,” advanced many strong arguments in favor of shooting with both eyes open, basing them upon correct science. He says the person who takes aim with one eye closed has robbed himself of half his vision. The single open eye cannot see the whole of the object at which it looks, but only a part, or one side of it. Then, it requires the use of both eyes to see and calculate distance correctly. One eye may outline a thing, but it calls for the employment of two eyes to give it a perfect perspective.

When an object is hastily caught within the range of both eyes, the sense of vision is instantly assured as to position of the object, its distance from the gun, and, if moving, the rate of speed at which it is going. By a mental operation the brain is promptly impressed with all this, giving confidence and, consequently, calmness. Here the main point favoring success has been attained—calmness and a strong belief that the shot is going to succeed. The moment when this is felt is the one in which to press upon the trigger. It means that a correct sight is secured, whether there be time to think about it or not, and hence an instantaneous discharge of the gun is almost sure to bring down the game.

Since beginning to write this book one of the authors interviewed a wonderfully successful sportsman with reference to his mode of taking aim at birds on the wing. “Why, bless your soul!” said he, “I never take aim at all. I throw my gun in range of the bird, look at the bird with both eyes open, and the moment a feeling comes over me that I shall kill the bird if I shoot, I pull the trigger, and it’s about always my bird.” So it is. But this expert is evidently mistaken with reference to taking aim: he takes aim mechanically. He thinks only about killing the bird, without thinking about taking aim, and in response to the securing of a perfect aim comes the feeling, unexplained in his thoughts, that if he shoots he shall kill the bird. It is simply a powerful concentration of thought, which is always of paramount importance in shooting. A mind scattering over all creation at the time of shooting is no more to be depended upon for good results than a gun scattering to all sides of a ten-acre field. There must be concentration in both cases. A man cannot buy goods, grow crops, swap horses, make poetry, edit a newspaper and kill birds on the wing with unvarying success all at the same instant.

Brewster on the Use of Two Eyes.—As the novice who has not devoted much thought to the subject of shooting, will be apt to feel some surprise at the idea of the use of both eyes being recommended in taking aim, the liberty will be assumed of quoting a paragraph from the writings of Sir David Brewster, offering it as evidence in substantiation of the foregoing position. In his able work on the Stereoscope he says: “When we look with both eyes open at a sphere, or any other solid object, we see it by uniting into one two pictures—one as seen by the right, and the other as seen by the left eye. If we hold up a thin book perpendicularly, and midway between both eyes, we see distinctly the back of it and both sides with the eyes open. When we shut the right eye, we see with the left eye the back of the book and the left side of it; and when we shut the left eye, we see with the right eye the back of it and the right side. The picture of the book, therefore, which we see with both eyes, consists of two dissimilar pictures united, namely, a picture of the back and left side of the book as seen by the left eye, and a picture of the back and right side of the book as seen by the right eye.”

This argues that the sportsman who closes one eye at the time of taking aim at an away-going bird, really has a very imperfect view of it—but half a picture, as it were—hence the aim could not possibly be so perfect as in case where the picture was rendered more distinct by the use of both eyes, in accordance with the clear explanation of Sir David, who goes on to state:

“But though we see with one eye the direction in which any object or point of an object is situated, we do not see its position or the distance from the eye at which it is placed. In monocular vision we learn from experience to estimate all distances, but particularly great ones, by various tests, which are called the criteria of distance, but it is only with both eyes that we can estimate with anything like accuracy the distance of objects not far from us.

“The most important advantage which we derive from the use of two eyes is to enable us to see distance, or a third dimension in space. That this vision is not the result of experience as monocular vision is, is obvious from the fact that distance is seen as perfectly by children as by adults; and it has been proved by naturalists that animals newly-born appreciate distance with the greatest correctness.”

Dougall’s Reasoning.—Mr. Dougall says, in his “Shooting Simplified,” that “A thorough good gun will knock over a hare running broadside, with four or five shots at seventy yards distance, but full elevation must be taken, and the gun fired with the head well raised and the eyes kept steady on the aim, not taking sight along the rib, with the eye well down behind the breech, as has been erroneously recommended.

“Distance requires elevation in proportion. A rifle is fitted with graduated sights to meet this, but the elevation of the rib of a fowling-piece is fixed and immovable. But by a simple law of perspective, when you look at a hare (or any other object) seventy yards away, bringing mechanically the sight to bear upon it, you have the breech of the gun lower than if it were only forty yards off; whereas, if you adopt the one-eye system, you fire at exactly the same elevation at all distances. It would be as absurd to take a level aim along the rib at seventy yards as it would be to fire a rifle at a mark at two hundred yards with the sight set for one hundred.

“While everything has been done to increase the range of the fowling-piece, nothing has been done to give the elevation necessary to take full advantage of the increase of power. As long as the one-eye system of shooting is adopted, the object, if hit at all, will be struck only by outside weak pellets, and not by the effective central shot.

“The proper way is to throw the gun well up and into the shoulder; the setting off of the stock will then bring the gun right in front of the face; and, the head being erect, and both eyes fixed intently on the object, the line of motion is commanded, and the aim taken instinctively. The central pellets have thus an allowance given them to compensate for distance and the motion of the object. You look along the imaginary line, higher at the breech according to distance, and at this elevation the gun is fired, exactly as a rifle target-shooter sets his breech sights to a given distance.

“How does a man drive a nail? Certainly not by closing one eye and looking along the hammer; but with both eyes open, he mechanically balances the hammer and strikes instinctively, never, if accustomed to the use of the tool, missing his aim. It is the same in shooting.”

Coming directly to the subject of employing binocular vision in taking aim to shoot, Mr. Dougall quotes from a paper in Once-a-Week to the effect that monocular vision, while much employed for this purpose, cannot at all be depended upon. To prove this position, place upon a table an empty small-mouthed vial, and taking another similar vial full of water in one hand, shut an eye and approach the vial upon the table; when apparently near enough, stretch out your arm quickly and endeavor to pour the water from the full vial into the other, still keeping the eye closed. You will be very apt to find, as the water comes down, that it is missing the mouth of the empty vial on account of a miscalculation, due to monocular vision. Now repeat the operation with both eyes open, and if care is exercised success will be the invariable result. A similar miscalculation will be shown to the person who endeavors to approach and snuff a candle with one eye shut.

Mr. Dougall thinks there can be no reasonable question as to the advantages of learning to use the shot-gun with both eyes open. This has been proven time and again by the most rigid tests. It is even a settled fact that the nearer the eyes of an individual set together in the head the less he is likely to shoot well. “And yet,” says Mr. Dougall, “how strange it is to find sportsmen who would still further narrow this fine provision of nature into the diameter of one retina only. Throwing the fowling-piece into a line with the object of aim by an instinctive effort, keeping both eyes firmly fixed on and following the flight of the object, is the first great principle in shooting well.”

Gloan on Taking Aim.—The clever author of a neat little book entitled “The Breech-Loaders,” tells us that when the shot leave the gun the powder which propels the pellets has started them with sufficient force to keep them up for a short time against all natural resistances acting upon them, but finally gravitation, which is pulling upon them all the time, begins to tell, and carry them downward from the line upon which they set out.

“The shot have a journey to perform after they leave the gun, and before they reach the bird. It may be a long journey or a short journey, according to the distance of the bird; but still it is a journey, and it takes some time to do it in. While the shot are traveling on their way, the bird is flying on his way. If the bird is flying across the shooter, and the aim is at the bird, naturally, by the time the shot get to the point of aim, the bird has gone on beyond it, and is untouched by the shot. And if the distance is great, gravitation has affected the shot and pulled them down below the point of aim. Possibly, too, the wind is strong, and has blown them a little to one side. So that, assuming that a sportsman aims steadily and exactly at a cross-flying bird, sixty yards distant, going a mile a minute, the gun making a pattern good enough to kill, what results?

“When the shot arrive at their point of destination they are from eight to ten feet behind the point to which the bird has flown; and they are from ten to twelve inches below the line upon which the bird was flying. If the wind is high they are blown aside, even on the lower line, and the other pellets become harmless if they hit. The bird escapes, as a matter of surprise to the young sportsman, who is confident that he ‘covered it exactly.’

“He did cover it, literally, and exactly, and that was the cause of the miss. If he had aimed the length of a fence rail ahead of the bird and half the length above it, he would probably have brought it down. As the shot was, however, the bird was sure to be lost.

“An old shot will shine on range and allowance. His eye will measure distance as though with a tape-line. He will estimate velocity as with a registering instrument. He makes his cheek an index of the wind, and before his gun is at his shoulder he has decided with unfailing skill where the aim must be, and there he plants the load. If the bird does not fall it is the gun’s fault, not his.

“By the binocular vision these difficulties, which are so trying to the novice, are the more readily overcome. The eyes take in the flight of the bird, and convey the rate of speed at which it flies. The full distance of the whole perspective of the landscape is made palpable to the sense, and the finger responds to the call, which is made all the more quickly and all the more truly because of the certainty which the eyes impart.”

CHAPTER XXXVIII.
ON USING THE PISTOL.

Natural Talent.—The number of persons who are really good shots with the pistol is smaller than one would be apt to suppose after considering how many weapons of this kind are in every-day use. They are almost as common as pocket-knives, and some of them are capable of shooting reasonably well at considerable length of range, and yet not an average of one man in five hundred, who owns a pistol, could be found, perhaps, who could put fifty per cent. of his bullets through a hat set up for a target ten paces away. The fact is, the pistol, while capable enough, if well made, is the most difficult of all our fire-arms to manage, so far as relates to good performances. There are men who can take a good revolver and shoot a chicken’s head off every time, ten or fifteen paces, but of such men there are not very many. And none of them have ever communicated how they happened to become such fine shots with the pistol. In some cases they had practiced a good deal, but not more than had hundreds who were but comparatively poor performers. To come squarely down to the point at once, the peculiarity which made them good shots with the pistol was a “born-gift,” as in the case of the best shots with the shot gun. Any man who practices with the pistol, in accordance with the established rules governing its use for best results, may soon become a fair shot, but it calls for more than mere practice to make him an excellent shot.

Taking Aim.—The best shots do not take aim by sighting along the barrel of the pistol, holding it out at arm’s length after the manner of the wooden figure standing in front of the city shooting-gallery. They do not close one eye and turn sideways to the object of aim like the ideal duelist, but they hold out the pistol, look at the object (not the pistol), with both eyes open, and blaze away, usually putting the bullet about where they want it to go. There is really no aim-taking in the case, any more than there is in the case of a boy playing at marbles. Indeed, shooting a pistol to the best advantage is very much on the same principle as shooting a marble. The boy takes the marble properly between his thumb and first finger, holds out his hand in the direction of the marble to be shot at, but considerably below his line of vision, looks at the object-marble with both eyes open and “flips” in obedience to the promptings of a kind of unconscious calculation as to distance, force at command, effect of gravitation, and so on. The marble “flipped” curves out on its way, and, if shot from the hand of a skillful player, strikes its mark with astonishing certainty. Just so with the bullet sent from the pistol; under the management of a skillful performer it goes in obedience to an unconscious calculation, and not in obedience to the squinting of one eye along the barrel. Sight-taking won’t do in either case; the good marble player would be a hopeless failure if he held up his arm to his line of vision and took sight every time he went to “shoot”—the pistol-shooter who performs upon the same plan is invariably a marksman of sterling uncertainty, to say the least.

Cane Aiming.—Some people are so deficient in the species of calculation necessary to successful pistol-shooting, on the plan suggested in the foregoing, that they cannot do much at it. Such as these have some excuse for taking sight, but holding the pistol out at arm’s length and sighting along the barrel or through its “sights” rarely gives them more than very little certainty. The best method of actually taking sight with a pistol is performed in connection with a rod some three feet long—usually with a walking cane. Grasp the grip of the pistol in the right hand, in the usual way, and take the cane in the left hand. Bring the handle of the cane up against the shoulder like the breech of a gun, pass the pistol down along the side of it till the barrel reaches the left hand, and both hands are in easy position. Hold the cane between the thumb and first finger of the left hand, letting them pass beyond it and grip the barrel of the pistol between the end of the thumb and the turned-up end of the finger. Let the thumb and first finger of the right hand also grip the cane beyond the “grip” of the pistol. The aim of the pistol should range a little to the right of the direction pointed by the cane, which it will very naturally do.

This plan steadies the pistol and affords as fine an opportunity of taking perfect sight as one could have with a rifle. A little practice with it, to enable one to arrive at a certain conclusion as to the rise or fall of the bullet, will soon pave the way for pretty fair shooting. A kind of clasp with which to fasten the pistol to the cane is now on the market, and may be made to work very well, though some would always prefer holding the pistol with the hands, in the manner just described.

The Best Pistols to Use.—It is not advisable to say a recommendatory word about any particular make—how could it be done, under the above heading, when there are twenty or thirty really good pistols now before the public under the brand of the same number of different manufacturers? The best pistol for any person to use is any good pistol that this person happens to like, and no other kind. All pistols do not shoot alike, and, hence, when any one has practiced with a certain kind until accustomed to its peculiarities they had better stick to it, as a change would be apt to throw at least some derangement in the shooting calculations, putting them under the necessity of a repeated practice. All the best shots invariably stick to some particular make of pistol, and usually to some particular size.

In making choice of a size it is best to be governed by the character of work the pistol is desired to perform. The large pistols shoot stronger, and, as a general rule, with greater accuracy than the small ones; still, comparatively small pistols are sometimes known to shoot reasonably well. They are intended only for short range however, and hence must not be depended upon when a good performance of long-range pistol shooting is desired. The large pistol has many advantages over the small one, while the latter can claim but two over the former. These two consist in its lightness, fitting it to figure as a pocket pistol, and in the lesser cost of its ammunition.

CHAPTER XXXIX.
VOCABULARY OF MECHANICAL TERMS USED BY GUN-MAKERS.

Action.—The iron bed attached to the stock of a breech-loading gun, into the recess of which the lump descends and is secured. The term is used generally as “side action,” “snap action,” etc. The word is also used to indicate the different form of gun locks, as back-action, bar-action, front-action, etc.

Anneal.—To render more soft, as in the case of iron and other metals.

Auxiliary Rifle.—A rifle-barrel some twenty inches in length, and so arranged that, like a cartridge, it may be slipped within the barrel of a breech loading shot-gun, thus at once converting the shot-gun into a rifle. The rifle-barrel, charged with its cartridge, may be placed in the shot-gun in a moment and at pleasure.

Back-action Lock.—A lock that is located entirely back of the barrel, being bedded in the stock alone.

Bar-action Lock.—When the lock is bedded partly back of the barrel and partly along side of it.

Barrel.—The iron or steel tube of the gun through which the charge passes in the act of firing.

Barrel-loop.—A metallic loop under the barrel, through which a small bolt passes to hold the barrel into the stock.

Bents.—The notches in the tumbler of a gun-lock.

Black-Walnut.—A tree, native to North America, whose wood is extensively used in the manufacture of fine gun stocks; the Juglans nigra of botanists.

Binocular Vision.—Seeing with two eyes.

Bolt.—The part which, in a breech-loader, passes into the lump of the barrel and holds it into the action when the gun is closed.

Bore.—The interior of the barrel along which the charge passes.

Bores are made of the following forms: True cylinders; cylinders enlarged at the breech; cylinders enlarged or freed at the muzzle; tapered to narrow at the muzzle; narrowed to close at the muzzle; cylindrical, with ring cut out near muzzle; narrowing the muzzle with depth cut out, modified, etc. Bores are also made elliptical, hexagonal, polygonal, etc.

Brazing.—Soldering iron with brass or copper as a solder.

Breech.—In earlier days all that portion of the gun back of the lock was considered the breech, but now a gun is regarded as having two breeches: the breech of the barrel, the place where the cartridge is inserted, as in the case of the breech-loaders, and the breech of the stock, being that part which comes against the shoulder.

Breech-bolt.—A small iron bar used in some make of guns to assist in holding the barrel secure to the action.

Bridle.—That piece in the lock connected with the tumbler as a kind of cap.

Browning.—A rust produced on the surface of gun-barrels by means of acids.

Bump.—The corner of the stock at the top of the heel-plate.

Burnisher.—A piece of smooth and hardened steel used in polishing the surface of metals.

Calibre.—The diametrical measurement of the bore of a gun barrel. Breech loaders are made of 10, 12, 14, 16 and 20 calibre. Muzzle loader of every variety of measurement.

Cap.—The metal covering placed on the end of a pistol handle. Also the small cup-like contrivance put on the nipple upon which the hammer strikes to fire the gun.

Carbine.—A short form of rifle; so made to be easily carried by persons who used them mounted on horses.

Cartridges.—The ammunition for a gun, contained in metal or paper cases. They are sized to regular numbers, as gauge 10 or 12, etc., and are of two kinds, central-fire and rim-fire.

Case-hardening.—A hardened, steel-like exterior given to iron by heating it in connection with animal charcoal, and then plunging while hot in cold water.

Central-fire.—Setting off the cartridge by striking it in the centre, where the fulminate is placed.

Chamber.—The enlarged space in the breech of the barrel wherein the cartridge is placed, or where the charge rests in the case of a muzzle-loader. The bores intended to receive the charge in the cylinder of a revolver. In loading a gun with coarse shot, if they rest in the barrel side by side in regular layers or strata, we say they chamber; but if they are a little too large for this, so that some of the shots must lie above the common level for want of space between other shots and the side of the bore to admit of their going down, we say the gun will not chamber shot of that particular size. A gun is not supposed to shoot shot to perfection which she cannot chamber.

Charger.—A small measure employed for measuring powder in loading a gun or cartridge-shell.

Chequer-work.—The chequered carving as made on the stock of a gun.

Cherry-mould.—A small spherical cutting-tool, used for enlarging the interior of bullet moulds. It may be bought of houses dealing in gunsmith’s materials, or it may be made by dressing a piece of soft steel down to proper shape, cutting file-teeth upon it and then hardening in the usual way. To use the cherry, close the mould upon it and then turn it round and round until the interior of the mould is cut out to the required size and shape.

Cherry Tree.—A North American tree, growing to about medium size and furnishing a hard, reddish and most beautiful wood, highly prized for fine gun stocks. It is now getting to be quite scarce. Botanical name, Cerasus serotina.

Choke-bore.—A gun-bore slightly larger at the breech than at the muzzle.

Choke-dressing.—Dressing out the bore of a gun so as to make it slightly larger at the breech than at the muzzle.

Clamp, Mainspring.—A mainspring clamp is a kind of vise used by gunsmiths for clamping the mainspring preparatory to taking it from the lock.

Cock.—In flint-lock guns, that part of the lock which holds the flint. The name is also often applied to the hammer of percussion and other locks of more modern make. When the hammer has been pulled back to its last catch, we say the gun is cocked, or at full-cock; when pulled back to the catch next preceding the last, we say the gun is half-cocked, or at half-cock.

Comb.—That portion of the stock upon which the cheek rests at the time of firing.

Cone.—See Nipple.

Countersink.—The recess in the chamber in which the rim of the cartridge fits.

Cross-Fire.—We say a rifle “crosses fire” when it plays the balls on the same level without varying upward or downward.

Curled Maple.—This is not a species of growth, but an unexplained condition to be met with in the wood of the maple, most commonly in that of the sugar or hard maple (the Acer saccharinum of botanists), though occasionally in Acer rubrum, or red maple. The grain of the wood lies in regular waves, presenting a most beautiful appearance when nicely dressed up. It is very popular for fine gun stocks.

Cylinder.—That part of a revolver in which the charges are placed. In the older make of percussion lock guns a short plug screwed into the side of the barrel at the breech, in which was placed the cap-tube or nipple, and through which the fire from the cap was communicated to the charge.

Damascus.—The variegated appearance on gun barrels, produced by welding together metals dissimilar, as steel and iron, and then, while heated, twisting these metals into various tortuous forms and re-welding. The colors of the dissimilar metals are brought out by browning mixtures.

Direct Fire.—That arrangement in a breech-loader by which the plunger lies and strikes the ignition horizontally.

Dog.—That part of the gun-lock acted upon by the trigger to release the tightened mainspring and set the hammer in motion. Earlier gunsmiths called it by this name, but it is now usually called the sear.

Double Triggers.—Often called set-triggers. A pair of triggers arranged to a rifle, occasionally, to admit of setting it off with but slight pressure. The triggers are located one in advance of the other under the guard. To operate pull upon the rear one until it “clicks” and is “set,” after which cock the gun. The slightest pressure upon the front trigger springs the “set,” which acts suddenly upon the sear, releasing the mainspring.

Drop.—Distance measured from the top of the butt of a gun stock to a line drawn rear-ward from the top of the barrels, usually from 2 to 3½ inches.

Elevated Rib.—The raised rib on top of and between the barrels of a shot gun.

Escutcheons.—Pieces of metal, through which the bolt to hold the barrel to the stock, is passed.

Extractor.—An automatic working rod in central fire guns, by which the empty cartridge is partly withdrawn from the chamber.

False Breech.—A piece of iron permanently screwed to the stock to fit squarely against the breech of the barrel. In the modern muzzle-loader the barrel is secured against it by hooks. It is also called a patent breech, also a standing breech.

Fastenings.—Mechanism for holding the barrel of breech-loaders securely to the frame or action when the barrel is in position for firing.

Flash.—In the days of the old flint-lock a gun was said to “flash” when the priming ignited in the pan but failed to fire the charge.

Flux.—A substance or mixture used to facilitate the melting of metals or minerals, as glass, borax, and the like.

Fore Piece.—That portion of the stock lying under the barrel, forward of the lock, called also fore-end and fore-arm.

Fore Sight.—The sight located nearest the muzzle end of the barrel.

Forge.—A furnace with its accompaniments where iron or other metals are wrought by heating and hammering. When a piece of metal is hammered into some required shape, the operation is termed “to forge it.”

Fowling Piece.—A smooth bored gun, used for hunting small game, shooting shot or small pellets.

Freeing.—Slightly enlarging the bore of a gun at the muzzle.

Frizzen.—In the old flint-lock the steel plate that covers the pan and stood up in front of the flint, against which the flint struck to produce fire to ignite the priming.

Grip.—A name usually applied to the round part of a gun stock just back of the locks. It is also applied to the handle of a pistol.

Guard.—The piece of metal which curves around the triggers and protects them.

Half Stock.—A gun stock that does not extend the full length of the barrel.

Hammer.—That part of the gun-lock that strikes the plunger or cap, or other form of ignition. See cock.

Hammer-Gun.—A gun whose lock works with a hammer.

Hammerless Gun.—A gun whose arrangements for setting off the ignition are contained inside the breech mechanism, and not visible when the arm is ready for use.

Handle.—See grip.

Hazel Nut.—A small shrub growing abundantly in many portions of the United States. The Corylus of botanists, divided into two species, Americana and Rostrata.

Head.—In a gun stock, the part where the breech end of the barrel rests against.

Heel Plate.—The metal piece terminating the breech end of a gun stock.

Hind Sight.—The sight upon the barrel, nearest the breech.

Hinge Pin.—A pin fixed in the action on which the barrel plays.

Ignition.—Any chemical combination which can be caused to explode and fire the charge, as in a cap or cartridge, for instance.

Kentucky Rifle.—A form of rifle, once very popular with Western hunters, and now used to some extent. It is muzzle loading, and the great length of the barrel was one great peculiarity.

Kick.—When a gun rebounds at firing the term is used “it kicks.”

Land Space.—The space in the bore of a rifle between the grooves.

Lever.—The bar or rod the working of which locks or unlocks the action of a breech-loader, enabling the operator to open or close the gun. As top-lever, side-lever, under-lever, etc.

Lock Plate.—The flat plate to the inside of which all the other parts of the gun-lock are secured.

Loop.—The projection under the barrel to which the fore end is fastened. See barrel loop. They are of two kinds, wire and bolt loop.

Long Fire.—When a noticeable space of time intervenes between the striking of the hammer and the explosion of the charge, hence the term, the gun has made “long-fire.”

Lower Rib.—The rib underneath and between the barrels of a shot gun.

Lump.—The iron piece soldered to the barrel of a breech-loader, which descends into the action and is there secured preparatory to firing.

Magazine Rifle.—A rifle provided with an interior magazine for containing cartridges, and so made that they are passed automatically into a chamber ready for firing.

Mainspring.—The large spring in the gun-lock which imparts action and power to the hammer.

Monocular Vision.—Seeing with only one eye. When one eye is closed, as some do in taking sight with a gun, it is a case of monocular vision.

Mould.—An implement for moulding bullets. The plural form is generally given to it, as bullet moulds.

Musket.—A form of gun, smooth bored and formerly used for military purposes. When grooves are cut in the interior of the barrel, it is called a rifle.

Nipple.—In a percussion-lock gun, the tube upon which the cap is placed. In the central-fire breech-loader, the tube through the standing breech in which the striker or plunger works.

Nipple Wrench.—An implement used for screwing the nipples into position or out. It is often called a tube-wrench.

Oblique Fire.—Indicates that the plungers of a breech-loader lie and strike the ignition obliquely.

Pan.—A small pan-like outside on the flint-lock, which holds the priming, and in which the latter is ignited by a spark from the flint striking the frizzen.

Patent Breech.—See false breech.

Pepper Box Pistol.—One form of revolver pistol, in which the barrels are made full length from one piece of metal. The rotation of the barrels and the action of the lock to fire the arm was produced by pulling the trigger.

Picker.—A small wire implement hung to the shot-pouch of the hunter in the days of the old flint-lock, and used when occasion required for picking priming into the touch-hole of the gun.

Pipes.—Short tubes attached to a barrel or to a rib attached to the barrel to receive the ramrod and hold it in place.

Pistol.—A small variety of fire-arm, so made as to be easily carried in the pocket or a holster, and readily manipulated and fired with one hand.

Pistol Grip.—A gun stock whose grip inclines to turn down like the handle of a pistol, is said to have a pistol grip.

Play.—A rifle which does not shoot with regularity is said to play its balls.

Plungers.—The pins which are struck by the hammers, in breech-loaders, and which in turn strike and explode the ignition.

Powder Bed.—The chamber, in a muzzle-loader, where the powder lies when the gun is charged.

Priming.—The powder in the pan of a flint-lock gun.

Proof Marks.—Impressions of stamps made in gun barrels to indicate that they have been proved.

Proving.—Firing gun barrels with very heavy charges of powder and balls to ascertain if they are of proper strength.

Ramrod.—A rod with which the tightly fitting portions of the charge are pushed home in loading a muzzle-loader.

Rebounding Lock.—A lock which has the top of the mainspring and crank of the tumbler lengthened to such an extent that when the trigger is pulled the hammer delivers its blow and immediately rebounds to the half-cock.

Rib.—The metallic strip lying between and connecting the barrels of a shot-gun. See lower rib and upper rib.

Rifle.—A gun having grooves cut parallel with each other along the interior of the barrel. They usually take a more or less spiral course for the purpose of imparting to the bullet thrown a whirling or twisting motion on its flight through the air. The grooves thus cut are sometimes called rifles.

Rifle.—A gun with grooves cut in a twisted or spiral-like manner on the interior of the barrel, for the purpose of giving the projectile a rotary motion on its axis during its flight. The design being to give greater accuracy to the course of the bullet.

Rifle Cane.—A metallic walking staff, which is virtually a rifle, capable of shooting with much force. The lock works internally, and everything is so arranged as to pretty effectually conceal the true character of the arm, it, at a casual glance, presenting only the appearance of a neat walking-stick.

Rifle Guide.—An implement used by the gunsmith to guide the course of his rifle-saws in cutting grooves in the bore of a barrel.

Rifle-Saws.—Short files made to fit in the grooves of a rifle. They are usually attached to a rod, near the end, and drawn to and fro through the gun for the purpose of filing the grooves down to greater depth, where such a thing is required. In cases where new grooves are to be cut in a smooth-bore, the rod passes through a rifle-guide, which forces the saws to take the proper twist through the barrel.

Rim-Fire.—A cartridge whose ignition is around the rim instead of in the centre, and which, consequently, can be used only by some arm striking the cartridge at the rim.

Rouge.—A fine powdery material, used for putting a high polish upon the surface of well-finished metals. It is usually applied by rubbing in connection with soft leather, either in the form of a buff or otherwise.

Saturated Solution.—A liquid holding in solution as much of some particular soluble chemical as it will dissolve. For instance, if salt be put in water until a portion remains undissolved at the bottom of the vessel, there is in the liquid a saturated solution because it holds in suspension all the salt that it can dissolve.

Scatter.—When a shot gun throws the pellets over a range of space unusually wide, it is said that it scatters.

Scroll Guard.—An extension downward from the trigger guard, to steady the hand. It is designed to answer the same as pistol grip.

Sear.—Sometimes called dog, which see.

Sear-Spring.—The small spring in a gun-lock which presses the sear into the notches of the tumbler.

Set-Triggers.—See double-triggers.

Side-Lever.—A lever which works at the side of a breech-loader.

Side-Screw.—The long screw holding the lock to the stock.

Slack-Tub.—A vessel containing cold water, to be used in suddenly cooling hot metals, as in hardening steel, for instance.

Smooth Bore.—A gun for throwing single bullets, made on the plan of a rifle, but having no grooves in the bore. It is sometimes called a “smooth-bore rifle.”

Standing Breech.—See false breech.

Steady-pin.—The small projection on the mainspring which fits into the lock-plate.

Strap.—The metal strip in a breech-loader which runs from the breech-works down the stock, in place of the tail, or the old fashioned breech-pin.

Strikers.—See plungers.

Sugar Maple.—A tree indigenous to the United States, whose wood is extensively used in the manufacture of gun-stocks. See curled maple.

Swivel.—The small piece in a lock connecting the tumbler and the mainspring.

Tear.—When a bullet makes a hole larger than its own diameter, particularly in the flesh of an animal, the gun from which it was shot is said to tear.

Tenons.—Iron projections on the lump of a breech-loader, to fit into corresponding spaces in the action.

Thimbles.—The metallic loops on the under side of a muzzle-loader, made to hold the ramrod when not in use.

Toe.—The extremity of the breech which rests nearest the armpit when in the act of taking off-hand aim.

Top Lever.—The lever of a breech-loader, which works on the upper side of the gun, just back of the hammers.

Trigger.—The small lever under the gun, upon which is pressed with the finger to release the confined mainspring and allow the hammer to descend.

Trigger-Plate.—The iron plate in which the trigger works.

Trigger Spring.—A small spring to keep the trigger pressed close to the sear.

Tube.—The modern gunmaker calls the gun-barrel a tube; in old times the only tube known to the gunsmith was that projection upon which the percussion cap was exploded. See nipple.

Tube.—See nipple.

Tumbler.—That part of the lock directly connected with the hammer, and in which are the two set notches.

Tumbler-Screw.—The screw on the outside of the lock, passing through the hammer and holding it securely in its connection with the tumbler.

Upper Rib.—The rib above and between the barrels of a double-barrel shot-gun.

Vent.—A small hole in side of the gun breech communicating with the interior or powder chamber.

Vise.—An implement for clamping or holding.

White Maple.—The Acer dasycarpum of botanists—a near relative of the sugar maple. Common in many parts of the United States. Called soft maple in some localities.

Whole-Stock.—A gun-stock extending the entire length of the barrel.

Wiper.—A long ramrod used only in wiping out and cleaning the bore of a muzzle loader. Also a small spiral implement made to screw on the end of a ramrod for the purpose of boring into and drawing a wad from a gun, or for holding material for wiping. Sometimes called a wormer.

Wormer.—See wiper.

CHAPTER XL.
VOCABULARY OF CHEMICALS AND SUBSTANCES USED IN BROWNING, VARNISHES, &C.

Acid, Gallic.—Acid produced in yellowish colored crystals, derived from nut-galls or oak-apples. Soluble in water and alcohol. Nut galls are an import ingredient in the manufacture of good black ink.

Acid, Muriatic.—Called also Hydrochloric Acid and sometimes spirit of salt. Made by the action of sulphuric acid on common salt (chloride of sodium). Mingled with half its volume of Nitric Acid it forms Aqua Regia.

Acid, Nitric.—Sometimes called Aqua Fortis. Made by the decomposition of Nitre, or saltpetre by strong sulphuric acid.

Acid, Sulphuric.—Called oil of vitriol, made from sulphur and nitre or saltpetre.

Acid, Hydrochloric.—Called Muriatic Acid, which see.

Alcohol.—The product of the fermentation of sugar, and is contained in all fermented liquors. It is a colorless fluid, boils at 173° F. and burns without smoke. The volatile oils and resins are dissolved by it, as well as many acids and salts, the caustic alkalies, etc. The resulting compounds of the acids upon alcohol are called ethers.

Alkanet Root.—The root of a species of Bugloss. It affords a fine red color to alcohol and oils, but a dirty red to water. The spirituous tincture gives to white marble a beautiful deep stain.

Annatto.—Also spelled Anotta and Anotto. A red coloring substance obtained from the pulp of the seed-vessel of the plant Bixa orellana. It dissolves better and more readily in alcohol than in water.

Antimony, Chloride of.—Called also Butter of Antimony and Sesquichloride of Antimony. Made by distilling the residue of the solution of sulphuret of antimony in strong hydrochloric acid, or by distilling a mixture of corrosive sublimate and antimony. It is highly corrosive. In medicine, used as a caustic.

Antimony, Butter of.—See Antimony, Chloride of.

Aqua Fortis.—Called also Nitric Acid, which see.

Aqua Regia.—Made by mixing one part nitric acid in two muriatic acid, by measure; keep the mixture in a bottle in a cool, dark place.

Asphaltum.—Native bitumen, will dissolve in turpentine with gentle heat.

Benzoin, Gum or Gum Benjamin.—A gum extracted from the tree, Styrax benzoin, which grows in the East Indies. It fuses at a gentle heat, can be dissolved in alcohol and imperfectly dissolved in ether. It is employed as a varnish for toilet and other articles, which give out an agreeable smell when warmed by the heat of the hand.

Blue Vitriol.—Sulphate of copper. A salt formed by sulphuric acid in combination with copper. It is soluble in cold or warm water, used much in dyeing and exciting galvanic batteries.

Brimstone.—See sulphur.

Brimstone, Black.—Crude sulphur.

Burnt Umber.—Umber is a mineral of brown color from the Island of Cyprus. Two kinds are found in the market, raw and burnt.

Butter of Antimony.—See antimony, chloride of.

Camphor.—A solid concrete substance, Laurus camphor or Indian laurel tree, which grows in the East Indies, China and Japan. Soluble in alcohol, ether, oil and acetic acid.

Chloride of Antimony.—See antimony, chloride of.

Chloride of Mercury.—Called corrosive sublimate, which see.

Chloride of Iron.—See muriate of iron.

Copal.—The concrete juice of a tree growing in South America and the East Indies. Strictly speaking, it is not a gum or a resin, but rather resembles amber. It may be dissolved by digestion in linseed oil with heat little less than sufficient to boil the oil. The solution, diluted with oil of turpentine, forms a transparent varnish. It also dissolves in ether, and the ethereous solutions may be mixed with alcohol.

Copperas.—Sulphate of iron or green vitriol. A salt made by the decomposition of iron or iron pyrites in oil of vitriol. Dissolved in water, is the basis of black dyes, and is used in making ink, &c.

Copper, Sulphate of.—Called blue vitriol, which see.

Corrosive Sublimate.—Chloride of mercury. A salt prepared by the decomposition of sulphate of mercury by common salt. It is a deadly poison. It is soluble in alcohol, ether, in two or three parts of hot water and in about 15 parts cold water. It melts and sublimes about 600°. The white of eggs is an antidote for the poison.

Damar or Dammar.—A gum obtained from the agathis or dammar tree, allied to the pine trees, growing in the East Indies. It is soluble in alcohol and in oil of turpentine.

Dragon’s Blood.—The inspissated juice of various plants, of a red color, used for tinging varnishes, tooth tincture, staining marble, &c.

Ether, Nitric.—Mode of distilling equal parts of strong nitric acid and alcohol with a few grains of urea. It is liquid, colorless, of sweet taste, and insoluble in water. It boils at 185° F. The vapor explodes at moderate heat.

Elemi.—A resin obtained from plants grown in the East Indies and South America. In making lackers, it is used to give toughness to the varnish.

Fustic.—The wood of a tree growing in the West Indies. Used for dyeing yellow.

Gallic Acid.—See Acid, gallic.

Green Copperas.—Sulphate of iron. See Copperas.

Green Vitriol.—Copperas, which see

Hydrochloric Acid.—Muriatic Acid, which see

Iron, Chloride of.—See Muriate of Iron.

Iron, Muriate of.—See Muriate of Iron.

Iron, Sulphate of.—See Sulphate of Iron.

Iron, Sesqui-Chloride of.—Perchloride of iron or permuriate of iron. Made by dissolving rust of iron in muriatic acid and then crystalizing. It forms red crystals. Soluble in water, alcohol and ether. Very corrosive.

Logwood.—The wood of a tree growing in Central America. The extract is used in dyeing black color.

Madder.—A plant of the genus Rubia, one species of which is used in dyeing red.

Manganese, Sulphate of.—A beautiful rose-colored salt, used to give a fine brown dye.

Mastic.—A resin exuding from the mastic tree. It is in yellowish-white, semi-transparent tears. Used as an ingredient in varnishes.

Mercury, Quicksilver.—A metal fluid at ordinary temperatures. Congealable at about 40° below zero. Boils at 660° and forms a colorless dense vapor. It is used in barometers and thermometers, and in alloy with tin in coating mirrors. It unites with chloroform, forming calomel and corrosive sublimate. The only acids that act on it are sulphuric and nitric. To unite with the latter it must be heated.

Mercury, Chloride of.—See Chloride of Mercury.

Mercury, Horn.—Called Chloride of Mercury.

Mercury, Muriate of.—Chloride of Mercury.

Muriate Tincture of Steel.—See Muriate of Iron.

Muriate of Iron.—Called Chloride of Iron. Made by dissolving iron filings in muriatic acid and crystalizing by evaporation. Crystals of green color being the result.

Nitrate of Silver.—Made by dissolving silver in nitric acid and evaporating the solution in crystals. Will dissolve in warm water. Is used for indelible ink to mark clothing and in photography. When fused and cast in small sticks is called lunar caustic.

Nitric Acid.—See Acid, nitric.

Nitric Ether.—See Ether, nitric.

Oil of Vitriol.—See Acid, sulphuric.

Pearlash.—Carbonate of potassa. An alkali obtained from the ashes of trees by leaching. When evaporated to dryness in iron kettles it is called potash, but when calcined to burn off the coloring matter it is called pearlash.

Potash.—See Pearlash. Sometimes called salts of tartar.

Pumice Stone.—A substance resembling the slag from furnaces, ejected from volcanoes. The pulverized material is used to remove the gloss and imperfections on varnished surfaces by rubbing with a woolen cloth and water.

Quicksilver.—See Mercury.

Rotten Stone.—A soft stone used for fine grinding and polishing. Generally used after pumice stone, and is applied with a soft woolen cloth and sweet oil.

Salts of Tartar.—See Potash.

Sandarac.—A resin that exudes from tree growing in Africa. Fusible by heat and soluble in alcohol. Used in varnishes.

Sesqui-Chloride of Iron.—See Iron, Sesqui-chloride of.

Shellac.—Lac is a resinous substance produced mainly from the banyan tree of the East Indies. It is the product of an insect. Stick lac is the resin in its natural state; seed lac when broken up, cleaned of impurities and washed; shellac when it is melted and formed in thin flakes. United with ivory-black or vermilion it makes sealing wax. Dissolved in alcohol it makes lackers and varnishes.

Silver, Nitrate of.—See nitrate of silver.

Soda.—Common. See potash.

Spanish Whiting.—Ground chalk carefully cleaned from all stony matter.

Spirits of Nitre.—An alcoholic solution of nitrous ether.

Steel, Tincture of.—See muriate tincture of steel.

Sulphate of Iron.—Copperas or green vitriol. See copperas.

Sulphate of Manganese.—See manganese, sulphate of.

Sulphur.—Often called brimstone. A mineral of yellowish color. Soluble in turpentine, fat oils, bisulphuret of carbon and hot liquor of potassa. With oxygen it forms sulphuric and sulphurous acids, and with the metals it combines as sulphurets or sulphides. It is an essential ingredient in gunpowder, and the gas arising from its combustion is employed in bleaching straw and woolen goods.

Tartar, Salts of.—See potash.

Turpentine.—An oleo-resinous substance as flowing from several species of pine, larch and fir trees. Oil of turpentine is obtained by distilling the crude turpentine.

Umber, Burnt.—See Burnt Umber.

Venice Turpentine.—A liquid resin which exudes from the larch tree. The Venice turpentine usually met with is turpentine to which is added a quantity of black melted resin.

Verdigris.—A green oxide of copper, very poisonous. The white of eggs is an antidote for the poison, when taken into the stomach.

Vitriol, Blue.—Called sulphate of copper. See Blue Vitriol.

Vitriol, Green.—Sulphate of iron. See Copperas.

Vitriol, Oil of.—See Acid, sulphuric.

Whiting, Spanish.—See Spanish Whiting.

CHAPTER XLI.
CALIBRES OF GUNS, RIFLING, TWIST OF RIFLING, ETC.

European Guns.—The Enfield Rifle; Muzzle Loader, Cal. 577; 3 grooves; regular twist, slightly deeper at breech than at the muzzle; rifling one turn in 6 feet 6 inches.

The Purdy Rifle, Muzzle Loader; Cal. 650; 4 grooves; increasing twist, commencing at one turn in 6 feet and ending at one turn in 4 feet 9 inches.

The Wilkinson Rifle, Muzzle Loader, Cal. 530; 5 grooves with a regular twist of one turn in 6 feet 6 inches.

The Lancaster Rifle, Muzzle Loader. Bore smooth and elliptical diameter at muzzle; greater axis, 550; lesser axis, 540; greater axis at breech, 557; lesser axis, 543. The twist is one quarter turn in whole length of barrel. Length of barrel, 39 inches.

The Snider Rifle, Muzzle Loader; Cal. 577; 5 grooves, one turn in 4 feet.

The Whitworth Rifle, Muzzle Loader. Polygonal or hexagonal form of bore. Rifling, one turn in 20 inches. Bore, 564 across the flats. 568 across center of flats.

The Jacobs Rifle, Muzzle Loader; 4 grooves; loads and grooves equal. Rifling four-fifths turn in 24 inches.

The Turner Rifle, Muzzle Loader. Bore, 568. Rifling Turner’s Patent, one turn in 4 feet.

The Rigby Rifle, Muzzle loader. Rifling 6 grooves; one turn in 4 feet.

The Boucher Rifle, Muzzle Loader. Bore hexagon with angles, rounded off so as to form shallow grooves, 608 deep in center. Bore, 570. Rifling one turn in 3 feet 3 inches.

The Prussian Needle Gun, Breech Loader. Rifling 4 grooves, one turn in 40 inches.

The Chassepot Rifle, Breech Loader; Cal. 433; rifling 4 grooves, turning from left to right, one turn in 21½ inches.

The Snider Enfield, Breech Loader. Rifling 3 grooves slightly deeper at breech than at the muzzle, one turn in 78 inches. Diameter, 577. Depth of rifling at muzzle, 05. At breech, .13. Width of grooves three-sixteenths inch.

Westley Richard’s, Breech Loader. Bore octagonal form. Rifling one turn in 20 inches.

Regulation Minie Rifle, Muzzle Loader. Rifling one turn in 6 feet 6 inches.

American Guns.—The Peabody-Martini Rifle, Breech Loader. Rifling 7 grooves, one turn in 22 inches, gain twist, lands and grooves of equal width.

Maynard Rifle, Breech Loader. Rifling 3 grooves, one turn in 5 feet, lands and grooves equal width; depth, .01.

Sharp’s Rifle, Breech Loader. Lands and grooves equal width. Rifling one turn in 20 inches.

Bown & Sons’ Kentucky Rifle, Muzzle Loader. Standard number of grooves 7, but made with 4, 5, 6, and 7 grooves, same width as lands. Even twist one turn in 42 inches. Gain twist commences at 9 feet and ends at 6 feet.

Powel & Son’s Breech Loading Rifle, 6 and 7 grooves, one turn in 36 inches.

Steven’s Rifle, Breech Loader. Regular twist, one turn in 26 inches.

Springfield, U. S. Rifle, Breech Loader, Cal. 45. Rifling 3 plain concentric grooves. Lands and grooves equal width. Uniform twist, one turn in 22 inches, depth .005.

Frank Wesson’s Rifle, Breech Loader. Long and mid-range guns using long slugs, even twist, one turn in 18 inches, grooves 6, lands and grooves equal width. Short range guns, using slugs having short bearing, increase twist commencing on 6 feet, and ending on 2 feet, 5 and 6 grooves, lands and grooves of equal width.

Wesson’s Muzzle Loading Rifle. Barrel 2′ 8″ long. Rifling one turn in 3′ 6″ 6 grooves; space between grooves equal to interior surface presenting a dovetail appearance. Groves not so wide as spaces.

The Whitney Arms Co.’s Guns, Breech Loading, comprising the Whitney, Kennedy, and Phœnix systems. Rifling 6 grooves, one turn in 22 inches. Lands and grooves of equal width.

Marston’s Rifle (Toronto, Canada), Muzzle Loader, number of grooves 6, lands and grooves equal width; regular twist, one turn in 30 inches; depth of groove 15-thousandths inch, slightly freed at breech.

Pistols.—Colt’s Army Pistol, Breech Loading Revolver, Cal. 45. Rifling 6 grooves, twist uniform, one turn in 16 inches; depth .005.

Schofield, Smith & Wesson Revolver for Army Use, Breech Loader. Bore, .435. Number of grooves 5, uniform twist, one turn in 20 inches. Depth of rifling .0075.

CHAPTER XLII.
DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING APART AND ASSEMBLING RIFLES, DOUBLE-BARRELLED SHOT GUNS AND PISTOLS, OF THE MOST NOTED MAKERS IN THE UNITED STATES.

The Ballard Rifle.—(Made by the Marlin Arms Co., New Haven, Conn.)

To Take Apart.—1, take the sight from the barrel; 2, take off the stock by unscrewing butt-plate; and turning out the long tang screw; 3, drop the lever and take out lever screw; take out the extractor then the block; 4, unscrew the barrel from the frame and take the tang from the frame; 5, take the screws from the lock and pry the plates apart.

To Assemble.—Proceed in reverse order.

The Burgess Repeating Rifle.—(Made by Whitney Arms Co., New Haven, Conn.)—1, receiver; 2, bottom tang; 3, lever; 4, breech-block; 5, top lever; 6, ejector; 7, carrier-block; 8, bottom plate; 9, bottom plate snap; 10, hammer; 11 mainspring; 12, hammer-screw; 13, side loading spring cover as seen from the back; 14, trigger.

To Take Apart.—1st, take out the bottom plate screw, and remove the plate; 2d, take out the top cover screws and slide the cover back against the hammer, having depressed the lever sufficiently to let it pass by, then pull back the hammer as far as possible and take the cover out; 3d, take out the carrier screws, there being one on each side of the upper rear portion of the receiver, and the stop screw on the upper front left hand side of the receiver, then the lever, breech-block, extractor and earner can be taken out through the top.

To Disengage the Lever from the Breech Block.—Take out, 1st, the firing pin screw; 2d, the firing pin; 3d, the ejector from the side of the breech-block; 4th, the large pin from either side. In assembling, replace the pin in exactly the same position it was when taken out.

To Assemble.—1st, place the lever, breech-block, extractor and carrier in their proper position, relatively to one another, as they were when taken out, with the projection on the breech-block inside, and under the front part of the carrier. 2d. Replace the above parts taken together in the receiver, passing the handle of the lever first through the top, put in the carrier side screws and the stop screw. 3d. cock the hammer, slide the top cover into place, the breech being left half way open, then put in the screw; 4th, close the breach and screw the bottom plate to place.

Burnside’s Breech Loading Rifle.—To clean the gun, unlatch the guard and drop the chamber; press down the small spring bolt at the guard joint with the finger nail, while the lever of the joint-bolt is turned out of place and taken from the joint. To detach the movable breech-pin from the chamber, press it back with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand; hold the bolt in this position with the thumb nail of the right hand inserted in the notch of the bolt, while with the fore finger of the same hand, the breech-pin is pushed into the chamber, and the head or button of the spring-bolt is turned from its place, when the breech-pin may be removed. Every part of the arm, except the lock is now exposed to view. Put together in reverse order of taking apart.

The Evans Magazine Rifle.—(Made by the Evans Magazine Rifle Co., Mechanics Falls, Me.; Merwin, Hulbert & Co., agents, New York City.)—To load the magazine, introduce the cartridge through the opening in the butt plate. Each complete movement of the lever forward carries the cartridge to its chamber. Repeat the motion till the magazine is full.

To use as a single loader, drop the lever to right angle with the barrel and insert the cartridge directly in the chamber.

The full motion of the lever forward discharges the empty shell, the return places the loaded cartridge in position, when the arm is ready for discharge.

Semi-Hammerless.—The American Arms Company are now producing a gun at a low price called the semi-hammerless single gun, for which the manufacturers claim that it combines the advantages of a hammerless without the danger of the self-cocking principle. To cock the gun press down the little lever on the side. The lock-plate is easily removed to get at and oil the lock. Its construction is such that no water or dirt can penetrate to the lock.

The Hotchkiss Magazine Gun.—(Made by Winchester Arms Co., New Haven, Conn.)—To remove the magazine cut off, turn the notched end to the front; place the point of a screw-driver under the rear end and bear down gently, slightly supporting the front end against the pressure with the fingers of the left hand. To remove the breech-bolts press on the trigger and at the same time unlock the bolt and withdraw it. N. B.—The bolt can be removed in the following manner: unlock and draw back the bolt until the cocking piece just clears the receiver; then, letting go the handle, take hold of the cocking piece and turn it down to the right until the projection on the bolt-head leaves the groove under the front end of the locking-tube. The latter may then be drawn out at the rear, and the head at the front of the receiver. To return the bolt, the head must be inserted from the front and the part from the rear, unless the cut-off be removed. To remove the magazine-spring and cartridge-follower, insert the point of a screw-driver in the hole at the rear of the magazine tube, and draw out the tube. The barrel cannot be removed until the magazine has been taken out. Remove then the trigger spring screw and spring, the cartridge stop pin and stop, the trigger pin and trigger using a punch to drive out the pin. Remover the trigger catch pin and catch, using the point of a screw-driver in the notched end of the pin to draw it out.

To dismount the breech-bolt, remove the bolt-head, which can be done by holding the cocking-piece firmly in the left hand, and with the right turn down the handles as in the act of locking the bolt; the head will then slip off. Turn out the firing-pin screw; slip the bolt-head partly on the projecting end of the firing-pin, and use it as a wrench to unscrew the pin; the mainspring may then be removed. Remove the extractor by tapping gently on its projecting end with a piece of wood.

To assemble, proceed in the reverse order.

Howard’s Sporting Rifle, “The Thunderbolt.”—To clean the lock, take out the screw that attaches the back end of the yoke to the breech piece; unscrew the barrel; then take the nut from the back end of the sliding breech-pin, which with the mainspring and hammer, constitute the lock.

In using, if the operator does not wish to have the piece cocked, he has only to hold the trigger back while closing the guard, and it will not be cocked. To cock it from this position, he has only to open the guard a short distance, and close it. If he wishes to load and fire rapidly, it will cock itself. If in no haste, or does not wish it cocked, he has only to hold back the trigger, while closing its guard.

The Kennedy Magazine Gun.—(Made by Whitney Arms Co., New Haven, Conn.)—Directions for taking apart:

1. Take out the two side screws, on the left side of the receiver, that are nearest together. 2. Remove the bottom plate and carrier block through the bottom of the receiver. 3. Full cock the hammer and take out the extractor screw from top cover, then depress the lever sufficiently to let the cover pass over it, pull back the hammer as far as possible and slide the cover out over it. 4. Remove the breech-block and lever together through the top of the receiver.

To disengage the breech-block: 1. Take out the firing-pin screw. 2. The firing pin. 3. The ejector from the side of the breech-block. 4. The large pin from either side.

To assemble, put the parts together in reverse order from which they were taken out.

Marlin’s Magazine Rifle.—(Made by Marlin Arms Co., New Haven, Conn.)—Figure No. 1 shows the arm in a closed position. A, represents the Lever; B, the Bolt; C, Extractor; D, the Carrier Block; E, the Ejector; F, the Carrier Block Spring; G, the Hammer; H, the Trigger; I, the Firing Pin.

To take the action apart: 1. Take out the lever pin screw, and drive out the lever pin, allowing the lever to be removed. 2. Take out the tang screw (this allows the stock to be removed), hammer screw, and front pin that goes through trigger strap; now remove the trigger strap with lock work attached. 3. The bolt can now be slipped out.

To assemble the action, put the parts into the receiver in reverse order from that in which they were taken out.

Maynard Rifle, Self-Priming Model.—(Made by Mass. Arms Co., Chicopee Falls, Mass.)—To detach the barrel: Loosen the lever at its rear end and move it forward. There is a button that keeps the magazine closed; turn this button downward and forward as far as it will go; then pull it out as far as it will come; this will detach the lever from the breech-piece, so that it will come partly out of it; unhook the barrel, and the lever will pass quite out of the breech-piece. To attach the barrel reverse the operation.

To remove the nipple: On the left side, opposite the nipple, is the screw which fastens it; take out this screw; put a stick of hard wood in the screw-hole; strike the stick a little and the nipple will be driven out.

To dissect the rifle for a thorough cleaning: There are four screws on the under side of the gun, behind the hole where the lever is pivoted. Take out the two farthest back, and the stock may then be drawn back so as to separate it from the breech-piece.

To adjust the joint between the end of the barrel and the breech-piece: There are two screws visible on the under side of the breech-piece, forward of the lever. They are to adjust the joint to the thickness of the flange of the cartridge. To do this: First, turn the screw nearest the lever once round to the left; now raise the butt-end of the barrel, put in a cartridge, and observe as you bring the butt-end down again whether the joint is too close, so as to pinch the flange, or not close enough to hold it firmly. The exact degree of tightness allows the lever to work easily, but holds the barrel perfectly firm. This degree will be found by turning the forward screw to the right or left. Having found this degree, turn the rear screw to the right, tightly, and the joint is adjusted.

The Peabody-Martini Rifle.—(Made by Providence Tool Co., Providence, R. I.)—1. Butt Stock. 9. Stock Bolt. 10. Receiver, or Body. 11. Trigger Spring. 12. Screw for Locking Bolt Spring and Trigger Spring. 14. Stop Nut. 15. Block Axis Pin. 16. Striker, or Firing Pin. 19. Block. 25. Tumbler. 26. Indicator. 27. Block Lever. 28. Extractor. 29. Tumbler Rest. 30. Tumbler Rest Axis Screw. 31. Extractor Axis Screw. 32. Guard. 33. Trigger. 34. Trigger Axis Screw. 35. Swivel. 36. Swivel Axis Screw. 46. Barrel. 47. Fore, or Tip-Stock. 48. Cleaning Rod.

To dismount body or receiver: Turn keeper-screw so the groove in head will allow block axis pin to drop out; open the breech, and with the thumb press with force oil front end of block, and, at the same time, raise the lever; turn the keeper-screw so as to allow the tumbler axis to be pushed out. This also relieves the tumbler. Take out extractor axis screw.

To assemble body: Put lever back to its place in assembled guard and insert both in the body. Drop in extractor and turn in extractor axis screw. Put tumbler in place and put in tumbler axis, point upright and secure keeper screw. With the right hand raise the lever so as to touch the lever catch, then, with the first finger, pull the trigger back, and with the thumb push the trigger axis forward, and drop in the assembled block, the front end entering first. Apply a little force to back end of block with the left hand, moving the lever a little at the same time with the right hand, and the block will drop into place. Insert block axis pin and secure it with the keeper screw.

To dismount guard: Take out tumbler rest axis screw, relieving tumbler rest. Take out trigger spring screw, relieving trigger spring and locking bolt spring. Take out trigger axis screw, relieving trigger. Take out locking bolt screw, if found necessary.

To assemble guard: Hold trigger in place and turn in trigger axis screw. Restore locking bolt and thumb piece to place and turn in screw. Restore locking bolt spring and trigger spring and turn in trigger spring screw. Insert tumbler rest and turn in tumbler rest axis screw. The parts are now ready to be attached to the body, or receiver.

To dismount block: Turn keeper screw on end of block and take out stop nut. The firing pin and coil spring will then drop out.

To assemble block: Restore firing pin and coil spring. Turn in stop nut, and turn keeper screw to secure it.

The firing pin has a rectangular slot near one end. This slot is longer on one side than on the other. The long side should be so placed as to admit end of the tumbler freely.

The Phœnix Breech-Loader.—(Made by Whitney Arms Co., New Haven, Conn.)—No special directions are necessary for dismounting and assembling the Phœnix system. The breech-block is taken out by loosening the screw that holds the pin, and then taking out the pin. After the breech-block has been removed let the hammer down as far as it will go, which relieves it from the pressure of the main spring, and it can then be easily removed by taking out the screw which holds it.

The Remington Breech-Loading Rifle.—(Made by E. Remington & Sons, Ilion, N. Y.)—Explanation of parts and technical names: AA. Receiver. B. Breech Piece. C. Hammer. D. Locking Lever. a. Main Spring. bb. Pins. c. Trigger. d. Lever Spring. e. Trigger Spring. f. Firing Pin. g. Extractor.

To remove the breech piece and hammer: Loosen the button screw until the button can be removed from the heads of the breech and hammer pins. Cock the hammer, push out the breech pin, take out the breech piece, let down the hammer as far as it will go (which leaves the main spring resting upon a stationary pin, and obviates the necessity of using a main spring vise in readjusting the parts). Remove the hammer pin and take out the hammer.

To replace the hammer and breech piece: Lay the arm down on the right side, press upon the trigger at the same time replacing the hammer with the thumb piece forward and downward, until the hole in the hammer and receiver correspond. Replace the hammer pin, cock the hammer, replace the breech piece, insert breech pin in receiver, and by pressing on the pin at the same time pressing down the breech piece and working it back and forth slightly the pin will enter. Adjust the button and tighten the button screw.

To take the entire arm apart: Take out the extractor screw, open the breech, remove the extractor, take out the breech piece and hammer, as described. In military arms remove the wiping rod by unscrewing the same, remove the bands, separate the tip stock from the barrel at the muzzle, until it is liberated from the stud upon the under side of the barrel, when it maybe withdrawn from the receiver; take out the tang screw and remove the butt stock.

To detach the guard strap: Take out the two side screws which pass through the guard strap, always removing the rear screw first. Unscrew the barrel from the receiver, taking care that the extractor has been removed before unscrewing the barrel.

To assemble the arm: Screw the barrel into the receiver, until the mark on the top of the barrel and receiver correspond. Replace the extractor and screw, place the forward end of the guard strap in the receiver, putting in the screw. See that the main spring is in the center of the guard strap, press the rear end in until the screw will enter. Replace the hammer and breech piece, as previously described. Replace butt stock and tip. In putting on the bands of military guns, see that the letters upon them are upon the same side with the band springs. Replace the wiping rod by screwing it in.

The locking lever, attached to the guard strap, serves a double purpose: one end locking the sear, or trigger, when the breech is open to receive the cartridge, which effectually prevents accidental discharge, the other end working in a groove on the under side of the breech piece, serving to close the breech piece and keep it closed in the act of firing.

The Remington Magazine Gun; Keene’s patent.—(Made by E. Remington & Sons, Ilion, N. Y.)—To remove the breech, turn the large screw at the right hand side of the stock below the hammer to the right until the carrier (which should be in its lower position at the time) drops free of the bolt and allows it to be withdrawn. N. B. The screw referred to is cut with a left hand thread. To separate the rear end of the bolt and firing pin from the front end, bend back the hammer and twist it around to the right until the shoulder on front end of rear cap slides back in the groove in breech bolt. To reassemble it reverse the operation described. To take out the extractor, press back the extractor bolt, using the hooked end of the screw-driver for this purpose, thus releasing the rear end of the extractor, which may then be lifted out of its seat. Care should be taken not to let the extractor be thrown out by the spring when released. To remove the stock, take off the bands; take out the screw at the end of the metal tip, and remove the tip-stock by slipping it forward over the magazine tube. Unscrew the magazine tube, take out the tang screw, remove the guard bow, and take off the butt stock. The barrel should never be unscrewed except with proper appliances to avoid injuring the receiver.

To assemble the parts, reverse the operations described, taking care in screwing in the magazine tube that the follower does not catch against the cut-off and interfere with replacing the tube.

Remington No. 3 Rifle.—(Hepburn’s Patent, made by E. Remington and Sons, Ilion, N. Y.)—Remove the upper screw on the left hand side, and the breech block may be taken out. To take out the hammer, remove the upper screw and slip the hammer forward into the breech block hole. To take out the extractor, remove the forward screw on left hand side. The lever which operates the breech block passes through the rocker sleeve with a square stud and is held in place by a set screw directly under the fore stock, which must be removed if it is ever desired to take off the lever. If necessary to remove the guard it can be done by taking off the butt stock and taking out the side screws in the usual way. The barrel should not be unscrewed from the frame except with proper appliances. When necessary to unscrew the frame, the extractor should be taken out and the breech block and guard put back in place, before putting on the wrench.

Sharp’s Rifle, (old model using paper or linen cartridge, also model of 1874 using metallic cartridge; made by Sharp’s Rifle Co., Bridgeport, Conn.)—To take the arm apart: Relieve the lever key from pressure of spring by throwing down the lever guard, the key can then be taken out and the slide with lever guard attached, removed.

To replace, put slide in place, leaving guard down, then insert lever key, turning the key to place.

To take off the lock, give four or five turns to the side screws; tap their heads gently with the handle of the screw-driver to start the lock from its bed, the side screws can then be taken out and the lock removed. To replace the lock, press it firmly into its bed, before entering the screws and then turn them up close.

Sharp’s Rifle, (Borchardt’s Patent model of 1878; made by Sharp’s Rifle Co., Bridgeport, Conn.)—Plate 3—AAA, receiver; BB, slide; CC, sear; D, firing bolt; E, cam; F, extractor; G, connection; H, trigger; K, safety catch; L, safety lever; MM, lever; NN, mainspring; O, lever spring; P, barrel stud; R, ramrod stop, military; S, ramrod, military; T, swivel, military; UU, barrel; W, forearm; W, link; X, butt-stock bolt; 1, lever pin; 2, lever screw.

To take the arm apart: Loosen the rear screw under the barrel, and this will relieve the pressure of the lever spring. Cock the gun by opening and closing. Bring down the guard lever half way. Take out the lever pin on which the lever rotates. This pin is held in place by a small screw directly above it. Turn this screw to the left until the circular cut in its side is on a line with the lever pin, and the latter can then be removed. Pull lever out of the joint. Replace lever pin so as to hold extractor in place. Remove screw which connects lever and link, through hole in left side of link. Take out lever. Push slide up and out, and then take out extractor.

To strip the slide, uncock it and push out sear pin and remove sear. Take out pin at rear end of slide. Take out slide plug and mainspring. Drive cross pin out of firing bolt and remove same. Remove link by taking last screw out of slide. To remove trigger, safety and safety lever, drive out trigger pin and safety pin above it. Pull back safety catch and pull out trigger. Push forward safety catch as far as it will go, and it will drop out, together with the safety lever above it.

To assemble, replace safety catch, safety lever and trigger. Assemble slide and cock it. Push safety catch into notch of trigger. Put in extractor and lever pin. Insert slide and push it down, keeping extractor close to its place, in base of barrel. Attach lever. Take out lever pin, bring lever into the joint, replace the pin, and secure it by giving small screw above it half a turn to the right. Tighten the screw which was loosened under the barrel.

Never use a hammer or other force either in taking apart or assembling this system. If the parts are in proper position, everything will go into place easily.

The U. S. Muzzle Loading Rifle and Musket.—To take apart: Draw the ramrod; turn out the tang screw; put the hammer at half cock; partially unscrew the side screw, and with a light tap on the head of each screw with the handle of the screw-driver or a light wood mallet, loosen the lock from its bed in the stock, then turn out the side screws and remove the lock with the left hand. Remove the side screws and take off the bands. Take out the barrel by turning the gun horizontally, barrel downward, holding the barrel loosely with the left hand below the rear sight, the right hand grasping the stock by the small; if it does not leave the stock, tap the muzzle on the top side against the work bench which will effect loosening it at the breech.

To assemble, put together in the inverse order of taking apart. Squeeze the barrel in place with the hand; give the butt of the stock a gentle tap on the floor to settle the breech end of the barrel against the head of the stock.

Springfield Breech Loading Rifle (made at Springfield, Mass. by U. S. Government; adopted by U. S. Government.)—A, Bottom of Receiver; B, Barrel; C, Breech Screw; E, Hinge Pin; F, Cam Lock; G, Cam Latch Spring; H, Firing Pin; I, Firing Pin Spring; J, Extractor; K, Ejector Spring and Spindle; L, ejector Stud; M, Lug of Extractor.

To dismount the breech loading parts: 1. Remove the hinge pin by pressing on its point with a small-sized punch until the end carrying the arm projects sufficiently to enable it to be grasped and removed by the fingers. 2. Remove the breech block carefully, so as not to allow the extractor and ejector spring to fall out. 3. Remove the extractor and ejector spring. 4. Remove the cam latch by unscrewing the breech block cap screw, and loosen the cap with the point of a screw-driver. 5. Remove the cam latch spring. 6. Turn out the firing pin screw, then take out the firing pin and spring from the breech block.

To assemble: 1. Insert the firing pin screw in the breech block, then the firing pin, and then replace the firing pin screw. 2. Insert the cam latch spring in its place. 3. Replace the cam latch and the breech block cap; turn the cap screw well down. 4. Insert the ejector spring in its place. 5. Replace the extractor in such a position in the breech block that the small recess in the back of the extractor will be in a position to be presented to the point of the ejector spring spindle. 6. Insert the breech block. After seeing that the point of the spindle has entered the recess in the back of the extractor, strike the breech block over the thumb piece and head of the firing pin, a smart blow with the palm of the hand, forwards and downwards, this will cause it to enter sufficiently to hold it in place. Then press it into position by grasping the block and receiver with the fingers and thumb, the thumb uppermost, and squeeze it home. 7. Insert the hinge pin by striking it a sharp blow with the palm of the hand. See that the stud in the arm enters the recess cut for it on the side of the receiver.

Should the thumb piece interfere with the head of the hammer in raising the breech block, it is probable that either the tumbler or sear screw is too loose or broken.

Whitney Breech Loading Gun (made by Whitney Arms Company, New Haven, Conn.)—To take apart: 1. Give the screw in the side of the frame or receiver (that holds the two fulcrum pins) a few turns to release the flanges or heads of the two pins, then turn them away from the screw a little. 2. Place the hammer on the half-cock, open the breech half way, and press the locking shoulder back with the screw-driver until it is held by the catch on the locking lever made for the purpose. 3. Knock out the pin that holds the breech block, and take out the breech block, lever and cartridge extractor at the same time. 4. Bring the hammer to full-cock, so as to release the locking shoulder, and then uncock it, pressing it forward so as to relieve the tension of the springs; knock out the large pin, and take out the hammer and locking shoulder together.

To assemble: 1. Draw back the trigger to its usual place and insert the hammer and locking shoulder (placed together, as when taken out) into the receiver, pressing them forward so as to relieve them from the tension of their springs; then insert the hammer pin, half-cock the hammer, and press back the locking shoulder until it is held by the catch on the locking lever. 2. Insert the lever, breech block and cartridge extractor placed together, put in the fulcrum pin, turn the heads or flanges of the two pins to their places against the binding screw, and turn it up to its place. 3. Open the breech in the usual way, or simply bring the hammer to full cock, when the locking shoulder will be released and the piece ready to operate. The ramrod is held in place by being screwed into the steel on the lower side of the barrel.

Whitney New System Breech Loading Gun (made by Whitney Arms Company, New Haven, Conn.)—1, Receiver or Frame; 2, Bottom Tang; 3, Barrel; 4, Breech Block; 5, Hammer; 6, Breech Block Fulcrum Pin; 7, Hammer Fulcrum Pin; 8, Extractor; 9, Mainspring; 10, Trigger; 11, Stud.

To take apart the lock work: 1. Give the screw in the side of the frame or receiver (that holds the two large fulcrum pins) a few turns to release the flanges or heads of the two pins, then turn them away from the screw a little. 2. Place the hammer on the full cock, open the breech half way, knock out the pin that holds the breech block and the extractor screw in the side of the receiver, then take out the breech block and cartridge extractor at the same time. 3. Uncock the hammer, pressing it forward so as to relieve the tension of the spring; knock out the large pin and take out the hammer.

To assemble the lock work: 1. Draw back the trigger to its usual place, and insert the hammer into the receiver, pressing it forward so as to relieve it from the tension of the spring; then insert the hammer pin and cock the hammer. 2. Insert the breech block and cartridge extractor, placed together, put in the fulcrum pin, turn the heads or flanges of the two pins to their places against the binding screw, and turn it up to its place; then put in the extractor screw.

Winchester Magazine Gun.—(Made by Winchester Arms Co., New Haven, Conn.)—To take apart:

To take out the barrel: Take out the two tip screws, the magazine ring pin, pull out the magazine tube, and take off the forearm; then, before unscrewing the barrel from the frame, the breech pin must be thrown back by moving the finger-lever forward, otherwise the attempt to unscrew it will break the spring catch that withdraws the cartridge, and ruin the breech-pin.

To remove the breech pin model of 1866: After removing the side plates and links, the spring-catch must be next taken out, which is done by moving the breech-pin back so that the pin that holds the spring catch will be in a line with a corresponding hole through the frame; then with a small steel wire punch out the pin, then move the breech-pin forward and take out the spring catch; the piston can then be unscrewed with pliers or hand vise, first setting the hammer at full cock, or taking it out.

In models of 1873 and 1876: After removing the side plates and links, take out the link pin and retractor; the piston can then be pulled out with the fingers, first removing the hammer or setting it at full cock. Should the main spring require strengthening it can be done by turning up the strain-screw, which will be found directly under it, on the under side of the frame.

Remington’s Rifle Cane.—(Made by E. Remington & Sons Ilion, N. Y.)—Directions for using: To load, unscrew the handle or breech from the body of the cane; insert the cartridge and replace the handle, drawing back the handle will cock the piece ready for firing, when pressing on the trigger-knob underneath will discharge it. Do not press on the trigger-knob when the piece is being cocked.

The lock-case or breech may be closed by a slight pressure upon the spring sight.

For hunting or target practice, remove the tip or ferule at the muzzle. If it is required to use the arm suddenly, as for self-defense, it is not necessary to remove the tip.

To remove the lock-case, remove the ferule under the handle by driving it down, take out the pin under the ferule, draw out the handle, draw the cane to full cock and press down and back the trigger, unscrew the lock from the barrel and push the cock out at the top end of the case.

In replacing the lock be careful to get the slot on a line with the guide inside of the case, and press down the sight spring.

Billings’ Breech Loading Shot Gun.—(Made by Billings & Spencer, Hartford, Conn.)—This arm is provided with a backward and upward moving breech block in the rear of the cartridge, the breech block turning backward upon the hinge, which is a more natural motion than a forward turn.

To open the breech for loading, half cock the piece; draw the locking bolt with small handle on right side, and pull towards you; this retracts the firing pin, also extracts the shell automatically at the same time.

The Fox Breech Loading Shot Gun.—(Made by American Arms Co., Boston, Mass.)—To take apart: To detach the barrels, first open the gun as if for loading, which is done by pressing forward the thumb-piece on the top of the stock; then with the left thumb at a point about two inches from the end of the barrels, press the barrels towards the right and the gun is in position to load. Next turn the gun over in the right hand, holding it by the small of the stock, the end of the stock under the elbow supporting the weight of the gun; with the left thumb press the extractor home, and, with the thumb placed on the extractor spring, as close up to the fore end as convenient, press down the extractor firmly, and gently swinging the stock to the right until the detachment is obtained.

To attach the barrels again, grasp the barrels with the plate up, so that the large screw at the head of the plate comes about at the center of the hand; be sure that the extractor is home. Place the opening for the screw which is in the breech-plate, over the screw, with the stock at an angle of about forty-five degrees with the barrels, at the same time put the left thumb on the end of the fore end, holding it firmly and flat on the plate, the stock-plate covering the guide-pin next the screw on the barrels, but not the pin on the extractor; gently move the stock until the two plates come into perfect contact, when the barrel will swing into position.

To remove the extractor, detach the barrels from the stock, lay them on a table with the plate up and muzzle from gun; pull out the extractor as far as it will come readily, then turn it to the left until the short arm strikes end of the barrels; now draw it straight out, meanwhile holding a finger over the extractor button to prevent its springing out and getting lost, when the button and locking stud will fall out of their own weight.

To replace the extractor, lay the extractor button in its cavity and slide the long shank of the extractor through it, then place the locking stud in position, holding it snug against the rear end of its seat, run the extractor into it, solid home, and turn to the right till the short arm is opposite its hole, when push straight in.

To take out firing pins, remove the screw holding them, which will be found in the breech-piece at the rear of the scroll-fence.

The Lefever Hammerless Gun.—(Made by Daniel Lefever, Syracuse, N. Y.)—Locks are rebounding.

To take apart: To take off the lock, see that both hammers are down; take out lever-screw; remove lever; turn out lock plate screw and drive off right hand lock by tapping on head of lock plate screw; take out the screw and insert in sear hole, and drive off left hand plate.

To take out the hammers, turn in the screws in bottom of the frame until the mainspring will allow the hammer to drop back far enough to allow its being lifted out of the frame. In putting back, be careful to press the projection on the lever on top of the spring that holds it, up to place, before putting the lever-screw in.

Parker Double-barreled Breech-loading Shot Gun. (Made by Parker Brothers, Meriden, Conn.)—1. Finger piece. 2. Guard. 3. Lifter. 4. Locking bolt screws. 5. Locking bolt. 6. Barrel lug. 7. Trip. 8. Trip spring. 11. Extractor. 13. Joint Roll. The finger piece is solid and a part of lifter.

Pressing up the finger piece in front of guard raises the lifter, and its beveled side coming in contact with the locking bolt screw, acts as a wedge to draw the locking bolt from the mortise in the lug, and releases the barrels so that they tilt upward ready to receive the cartridges. When the bolt is back to the position shown in Fig. 2, the small hole which is drilled in the under side of the bolt comes directly over the trip, which, by the assistance of the trip spring, is made to enter the hole in the bolt and thereby hold it in position.

For cleaning, it can be very easily removed by taking off the locks and removing the locking bolt screw from the end of the locking bolt, then press down on the trip, which will allow the lifter to be withdrawn without removing either stock, guard or trigger-plate.

To replace the plunger: Withdraw the cone with a common screw-driver, by pressing it against the plunger until the screw-driver enters the slot. After removing the plunger and spring, be careful to replace them with spring at side of plunger.

Remington Double-barreled Breech-loading Shot Gun. (Made by E. Remington & Sons, Ilion, N. Y.)—A, thumb piece; B, lever, engaging locking bolt; C, pivot of lever B; D, locking point; H, joint check; K, pivot pin; L, joint check screw, limiting motion of barrels; M, hammer lifter; N, extractor; O, wire, a shoulder of which rests against P; P, shoulder of dog engaging locking bolt; S, snap action spring.

To take apart: To remove the barrels, take off the tip-stock, full cock both hammers and press the thumb-piece (between the hammers, and used for unlocking the barrels for loading) upward as far as it will go. The barrels can thus be detached.

In Fig. 3, the locking bolt is drawn as far as the shoulder P will allow it to move. This shoulder P is formed on one side of a little dog, in the other side of which is a corresponding shoulder, resting against the wire O. So long as the tip-stock is in place this dog cannot yield or permit the locking-bolt to be drawn far enough to allow the joint-check to come out of the mortise in the frame; but when the tip-stock is removed, the wire O can slip part way out, as in Fig. 4, allowing the shoulder P to move back, so that the locking-bolt can be drawn back clear of the joint-check—thus releasing the barrels.

The Roper Four-shooting Shot-gun and Rifle. (Made by the Billings & Spencer Co., Hartford, Conn.)—A, frame; B, receiver; B¹, hinged lid of receiver; C, hammer; D, plunger; D¹, head of plunger; E, plunger link; F, cartridges; G, carrier in which shells are placed; H, lever to revolve carrier; I, mainspring; J, sear; a, ratchet; b, stirrup; c, link connecting hammer with mainspring; d, pin of lever H; e, pivot of carrier G; f, firing pin; h, elastic tail of lever H.

To take apart: To take the gun apart, turn in the set screw on under side of cylinder forward of the guard plate screw, until it comes to a stop. Then bring the hammer to cock notch and unscrew the cylinder from breech. N. B.—This set screw turns in to take the gun apart, and turns out to fasten the cylinder.

In putting the gun together, screw up the breech until the set screw can be replaced. This screw should be turned sufficiently tight to prevent any looseness of the breech.

To take off the stock and expose the lock, take out the long screw that runs through the small, rear end of receiver on top, and the screw in the guard plate which fastens it to the receiver underneath in front. Then remove the stock, and the working parts are exposed and can be readily cleaned and oiled. The firing pin should be detached occasionally, cleaned and oiled, as its easy working insures certain fire. To do this, take out the small screw in the top of the hammer and remove the piston entirely from the receiver, and the piston and firing pin are readily separated. In replacing the piston, care should be taken to put it in right side up, the retractor spring being at the bottom. Never attempt to take out the screw which fastens the link to the piston, until the firing pin is detached.

Colt’s Revolver For Army Use, Cal. 45.—(Made by the Colt Pat. Fire Arms Co., Hartford, Conn.)—A, barrel; B, Frame; B¹, recoil plate, C, cylinder; DD, firing pan; D¹, center pin bushing; E, guard; F, back strap; G, hammer; H, main spring; I, hammer roll and rivet; J, hammer screw; K, hammer cam; L, hand and hand spring; M, bolt and screw; N, trigger and screw; O, hammer notches. P, firing pin and rivet; Q, ejector rod and spring; Q¹, ejector tube; R, ejector head; S, ejector tube screw; T, short guard screw; U, seat and bolt spring (combined) and screw. V, back strap screw; W, main spring screw; X, front sight; Y, center pin catch screw.

To take apart: To dismount the pistol, half-cock the hammer, loosen the centre pin catch screw; draw out the centre pin, open the gate, and the cylinder can then be withdrawn. To remove the ejector, turn out the ejector tube screw, then push the front end away from the barrel and pull it towards the muzzle. The stock can be removed by turning out the two screws just behind the hammer, and that at the bottom of the strap. Remove the main spring and trigger guard; the parts of the lock can then be readily separated. The cylinder bushing should then be pushed out for cleaning. To remove the gate, turn out a screw in the lower side of the frame (hidden by the trigger guard), then the gate spring and catch can be withdrawn, and the gate can be pushed out.

To assemble the pistol, follow the directions for dismounting in reverse order. The mainspring is most conveniently mounted by turning in the screw part way, then swinging around the front end of the main spring until it bears against the under side of the friction roll. The cylinder bushing should be frequently removed for cleaning.

North’s Patent Revolving Pistol.—To take the pistol apart, take out the screw in the forward end of the lock and barrel frame, which runs through the base-pin, then draw back the operating lever so as to bring the hammer to the half-cock, turn the cylinder round by hand until the mortise in the back end of the cylinder is found, which mortise connects the cylinder with the recoil shield; then unlock the rammer and draw it and the base-pin out; the cylinder is then left free to be taken out. When the cylinder is taken out be careful not to leave the spiral spring which lays in a recess made in the front end of the cylinder, and in putting together be careful to replace this spring.

To take the lock apart, first take out the main and lever springs which are both held by one screw; then take out the hammer, next the small screw connecting the lever with the link of the toggle-joint (this screw is in the lever on the outside of the pistol just back of the trigger). Next bend up the toggle-joint and take out the lever and trigger, which are both held by one screw; then take out the toggle-joint and revolving lever, which are connected together by two screws.

To put the lock together, first put in the toggle-joint, then the main and lever springs, next the hammer, then the lever and trigger; next screw the revolving lever to the toggle-joint.

To put the cylinder in its place, first put the recoil shield (the piece with ratchets made for turning the breech) into its place and draw back the operating lever so that the hammer will come to full cock, at the same time pressing back the recoil shield as far as it will go, still holding back the operating lever; see that the spiral spring is in place in front of the cylinder, put the cylinder in place, let the projecting pin on the recoil shield come into the mortise in back end of cylinder; then put base-pin and rammer to place and turn in the screw which holds it.

The Remington Revolver (Smoot’s Patent, made by E. Remington & Sons, Ilion, N. Y.)—To load: Half-cock the hammer; then turn the cylinder around so as to bring the chambers in line with the opening in the recoil shield, in which position the cartridges can be inserted, or the empty shells extracted by means of the rammer on the side of the barrel.

To remove the cylinder: Half-cock the hammer, then slide forward the stud in front of the cylinder through which the extractor rammer operates. The cylinder is replaced in the same way, but it is generally necessary to turn it in its seat to get the pawl out of the way before the centre pin will enter the hole in the cylinder.

To take the arm apart for cleaning: Remove the cylinder; then take out the two screws for holding the guard to the frame. When the guard is taken off, all the lock work is accessible for cleaning.

In order to keep a revolver in good condition, the cylinder should be taken out and oiled before putting it away after firing. The centre pin should be removed and cleaned to prevent it from rusting and impeding the rotation of the cylinder.

The Remington Magazine Pistol.—(Rider’s Patent. Made by E. Remington & Sons, Ilion, N. Y.)—To load: Draw the tube from the magazine; hold the pistol barrel upright; drop the cartridge, rim downwards, into the magazine; when full, insert the feeding tube in the magazine and lock in place by turning the caps and engaging catch in the notch under the barrel.

To fire: Grasp the pistol in the usual manner, press the thumb upon the breech-block, carrying the block downward until released from the recoil shoulder; then draw the block and hammer backward until the hammer engages in the cock notch; then let the block forward by an easy motion and the cartridge will be carried into the chamber; the pistol will remain at full cock and is discharged by pulling the trigger. In case the pistol should be loaded, and cocked, and not needed for use, the cartridge in the chamber may be returned to the magazine by simply drawing back the breech and pressing the carrier downward until the cartridge is in position to enter the magazine, then letting the block forward. This is to insure safety in carrying. The principle of this arm is such that the same motion cocks the hammer and carries the charge from the magazine to the chamber.

Schofield, Smith & Wesson Revolver, cal. 45.—(Made by Smith & Wesson, Springfield, Mass.)—To dismount the pistol: The only part of the pistol which will ordinarily require removal is the cylinder, which can be taken out as follows: Turn the cylinder catch just 180 deg., as indicated by the notch on its head; open the pistol; press up the head of the catch until it clears the cylinder; draw out the cylinder; replace it in inverse order.

To remove the cylinder and ejector of the pocket pistols, open the pistol until the piston protrudes half way, raise the barrel catch and turn the cylinder two turns to the left.

To replace the cylinder and ejector, open the pistol to its full capacity, raise the barrel catch, press the cylinder forward upon the base pin and give it two turns to the right.

The Automatic (Merwin, Hulbert & Co.) is so simple in its arrangements as to need no directions for assembling or taking apart.

FINIS.