PILGRIMAGES TO THE SPAS
IN PURSUIT OF
HEALTH AND RECREATION;
WITH
AN INQUIRY
INTO THE COMPARATIVE MERITS
OF
Different Mineral Waters:—
THE MALADIES TO WHICH THEY ARE APPLICABLE,
AND
THOSE IN WHICH THEY ARE INJURIOUS.

By JAMES JOHNSON, M.D.
PHYSICIAN EXTR. TO THE LATE KING.

LONDON:
S. HIGHLEY, 32, FLEET STREET.
1841.

PRINTED BY F. HAYDEN,
Little College Street, Westminster.

PREFACE.

The observations and reflections contained in the following pages, are the results of several autumnal excursions in the line of the German Spas, undertaken partly for health, partly for recreation, and partly for information on a subject that now interests a large portion of English invalids. The contents of the volume are like the objects which gave it origin. They are miscellaneous—and probably this character will be objected to, on the principle, “ne sutor ultra crepidam.” I have yet to learn, however, why a physician should be debarred from indulgence in general observations or reflections, and confined exclusively to professional topics. His education, habits of thought, and knowledge of human nature do not particularly disqualify him for a task which is daily undertaken by people of all grades of acquirement, and degrees of ability. The truth is, that being too independent to write for the mere purpose of catching the approbation of others, I have followed the bent of my own inclinations, and, if taken to task by censors, have little other reason to offer for my conduct than the old one—“stat pro ratione voluntas.”

There is one portion of the book, however, (a very small one, some twenty pages of letter-press) which may require some apology. The course of the Rhine leads to most of the German Spas, and is therefore traversed annually by multitudes of invalids as well as tourists. Every castle and promontory on its banks has its legend, and these traditions contribute to fix the picture of the locality in the mind’s eye, by association, for ever afterwards. In one of my excursions, some years ago, it struck me that these legends were designed, originally, each to convey some moral precept—at all events, I became convinced that they were capable of being moralized. Under this impression, I condensed the principal traditionary tales that have their locale in sight of the voyager, and deduced what I considered to be the moral or useful precepts which they concealed under a wild and improbable fiction. If I have failed in this attempt, the intention, at least, was good. Throughout the whole volume, my object has been to compress into small space much useful information for invalid or tourist, and, on all occasions, to start subjects for meditation or reflection, well knowing, from long experience, that such occupations of the mind on a journey, are eminently conducive both to pleasure and health.

In the principal or professional portion of the work, I have endeavoured to collect all the information in my power, and, in the exercise of my judgment, to sift the grain from the chaff, thus to steer clear of the extremes of exaggeration and scepticism. There has been too much of the former abroad, and too much of the latter at home. Holding myself perfectly free from all obligation to subserve local interests on one side of the channel, or foster national prejudices on the other, I have spoken my mind, with equal fearlessness and, I hope, impartiality.

The typography of this volume will prove that, although I must plead guilty to the charge of “making a book,” it has not been constructed on the approved principles of “book making.” By certain mechanical processes well known “in the trade,” this slender tome might have been easily expanded into two or even three goodly, or at least costly octavos, without the expenditure of a single additional line, word, or thought. But, bearing in mind the old Greek maxim that “a great book is a great evil,” I was determined that, should my lucubrations come under this head at all, the evil as well as the book should be on a small scale. Spa-going invalids have evils enough, God knows, to carry on their shoulders, without the addition, of a “Mega Biblion” in their wallets.

There is one defect in this work, however, which common honesty compels me to point out to the intending purchaser, before he parts with his money. If the travelling invalid expects to find here a catalogue of the post-houses, the signs of the inns, the prices of the wines, the fares of the table-d’hôtes, the pretensions of the cuisine, &c. &c. &c., except upon very rare occasions, he will be woefully disappointed. All this species of information, and a great deal more, will be found in that excellent emporium of peripatetic lore—“Murray’s Handbook.” But even this useful feature in the “red-book,” is not without its alloy. The character of caravanserais is perpetually changing, as well as that of their landlords; and when one of these gets a good name in a guide book, the afflux of travellers to that point too often causes the master to become proud, the servants lazy, the fare bad, and the bill exorbitant. Many a bitter anathema have I heard launched against the “Handbooks, &c.” for leading tourists and invalids to be starved and fleeced at the “Red Lion,” when they might have fared sumptuously and cheaply at the “Black Swan.”

Still, the Handbook is equally invaluable and indispensable to the continental traveller; and, as far as the Spas are concerned, Dr. Granville’s work is full of information on this subject. The profession and the public, indeed, are deeply indebted to Dr. Granville and Mr. Edwin Lee for opening out wider and clearer views of the continental mineral waters; but the subject itself, so far from being exhausted, is only in its infancy of investigation. Whether we regard the constituent elements of the waters themselves, their physiological operation, or their remedial efficacy, there is ample room for many future inquirers.

I have now only to return my sincere thanks to the various German and other physicians on the continent, from whom I received oral, written, or published information, and to say that I shall feel myself honoured by any future communications from the same sources, on the subject of the Spas.

JAMES JOHNSON.

Suffolk Place, Pall Mall,
May, 1841.

CONTENTS.

Page
[First Pilgrimage.]
Hygeian Fountains of Germany[1]
The Valetudinarian in pursuit of health[2]
The Steamer[2]
The Gathering in the Steamer[3]
The Conservative Traveller[4]
The Sea—the Maas[5]
Rotterdam[6]
The Hague[8]
Haerlem[8]
Normal Schools[9]
Amsterdam[10]
Batavian Characteristics[12-14]
Cologne[15-17]
The Rhine[18]
Drachenfels—Scenery[19]
Legend of Drachenfels[22]
Do. of Roland and Hildegund[24]
Last Nuns of Nonnenwerth[25]
Truenfels, or the Rock of Fidelity[27]
The Flying Bridge[29]
Rheineck renovated[29]
Hammerstein, Andernach, &c.[30]
Coblentz[30]
Ehrenbreitstein—Gibraltar[31]
Coblentz to Mayence—omnibussing[33]
Stolzenfels, and Legend[33]
The Brothers—Legend[34]
Lurley, or the Echo, with Legend[35]
Singular Locality of Echo[37]
Schomberg—Reflections[38]
The Seven Sisters, or Fate of Coquettes[38]
Pfalz[39]
The Hall of Mirrors[40]
Moral of the Mirrors[42]
The Devil’s Ladder[43]
Moral of the Ladder[45]
The Bridal of Rheinstein[46]
The Mouse Tower, and Moral[48]
Change of Scene[49]
[WISBADEN.]
Topography of[50]
Theories of Mineral Waters[51]
Composition of the Waters[52]
Effects of the Bath[52]
Phenomena produced by the Waters[53]
Disorders benefitted by the Waters[55]
Counter-indications[56]
“Bad-sturm,” or Crisis[57]
Hæmorrhoidal Mania[58]
Cautions respecting the Baths[59]
Directions for using the Waters[60]
Spa-life[61]
“Cursaals,” or “Curst-Hells”[63]
One-sided Morality[64]
The Adler, or Eagle Bath[65]
Author’s Theory of Kochbrunnen[65]
The Dandy of Sixty—Bath Cream[66]
Mr. Lee on the Wisbaden Waters[67]
[SCHLANGENBAD.]
Drive from Wisbaden to Schlangenbad[72]
The Serpent’s Bath[73]
The Cauldron of Medea[74]
The Phœnix of Schlangenbad[74]
Dr. Granville’s animadversions[75]
Waters of Schlangenbad[76]
“Order off the Bath”[76]
Table d’Hôte at Schlangenbad[77]
German Salaam[77]
Stomach and Teeth in Germany[79]
Value of Life[80]
Fame of the Serpent’s Bath[81]
[SCHWALBACH.]
The Three Brunnens[82]
Composition of the Waters[83]
Effects of the Chalybeates[84]
Indications for their Use[84]
Counter-indications[85]
Mode of taking them[85]
The Baths[86]
German Society and Manners[86]
[HEIDELBERG]
[89]
Verbondung, or German Duel[90]
[BADEN-BADEN.]
Scenery—Springs, &c.[94]
Ursprung[94]
Cautions respecting the Baths[95]
Lines Written at the Alten-Schloss[96]
Dissipation[97]
[WILDBAD.]
Journey from Baden-Baden to Wildbad[98]
The Devil’s Mill[99]
The Schwein-General[100]
Valley of the Enz[102]
The Raft-floaters[103]
Topography of Wildbad[104]
The Warm Baths[105]
The Elysian Fountain[106]
Disappointment[107]
Bathing in common—pros and cons[108]
Composition of the Waters[109]
Effects of the Baths and Waters[110]
Medicinal Properties[111]
The Spa-Fever[112]
The “Auxiliary” to Mineral Waters[112]
Disorders cured or relieved by Wildbad[113]
Counter-indications[116]
[FALLS OF THE RHINE]
[117]
Zurich[119]
Lake of Wallenstadt[120]
[BATHS OF PFEFFERS]
[121]
Astounding Cavern[125]
Source of the Waters[126]
Waters of Pfeffers[129]
[HYDROPATHY];
or the Cure of Diseases by Perspiration and Cold Water
[131]
Calido-frigid Sponging[137]
[Second Pilgrimage.]
Chemin de Mer—Chemin de Fer[139]
Antiquity of the Omnibus[139]
Belgian Rail-roads[140]
Antwerp route to the Spas[141]
Reminiscences of the Walcheren Expedition[141]
Liege[142]
[CHAUDE FONTAINE.]
Waters of Chaude Fontaine[142]
[SPA.]
Route from Liege to Spa[143]
Former Celebrity of Spa[144]
Pouhon—Sauveniere—Geronsterre—Tonnelet[145]
General Composition of the four Springs[145]
Medicinal Agency of the Spa Waters[146]
Regimen proper at Spa[147]
Environs of Spa[148]
Gambling at Spa[149]
Decadence of the celebrity of Spa[150]
[AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.]
Antiquity and Site of Aix[151]
Fontaine Elisée[151]
Aspect of the Spa-drinkers[152]
Vitality of Mineral Waters[153]
Caloricity Hypothesis[153]
Disorders benefitted by the Waters[154]
[BORCETTE.]
Waters of the Borcette[154]
Antiquities of Aix-la-Chapelle[154]
[EMS.]
Antiquity and locality of Ems[155]
A new Sprudel discovered there[155]
Composition of the Ems Waters[156]
Physiological Operation of the Waters[156]
Disorders to which they are applicable[157]
Pulmonary Complaints benefitted by Ems[158]
Counter-indications[160]
Point of Saturation, or Crisis[161]
General rules for taking the waters and baths[161]
Cautions necessary for using the Baths[163]
[FRANKFORT.]
City and Cemetery—reflections on[164]
[KISSENGEN.]
Situation in the heart of Germany[166]
Maxbrunnen—Ragoczy[167]
Composition of the Waters[167]
Pandur—Soolensprudel—Theresienbrunnen[168]
Medicinal Agency of the Kissengen Waters[169]
Disorders to which the Waters are applicable[170]
Physical effects and medicinal properties of the different Springs[172]
The Baths of Kissengen[174]
Counter-indications[176]
Point of saturation[176]
Order of the day at Kissengen[177]
Physiognomy of the various Spas[177]
[BOCKLET.]
Acidulous Chalybeate of Bocklet[178]
[BRUCKENAU.]
The purest Chalybeate in Europe[180]
[FRANZENSBAD.]
I. Franzensquelle or Brunn[182]
Hufeland’s Testimony to the Waters[184]
II. Salzquelle[185]
III. Cold Sprudel—IV. Louisenbrunn[186]
Gas Baths of Franzensbad[187]
Mud Baths of Franzensbad[189]
Personal experience of the Mud Baths[190]
Disorders to which the Mud-Baths are applicable[191]
Mr. Spitta on the Mud-Baths[192]
[MARIENBAD.]
I. The Kreuzbrunn[195]
Composition and Physiological effects[195]
Disorders to which the Kreuzbrunn is applicable[197]
II. Ferdinandsbrunn[198]
III. Carolinenbrunn and Ambrosiusbrunn[199]
The Baths of Marienbad[201]
Physical and Physiological Effects of the Baths[201]
Mud-Baths of Marienbad[202]
Gas-Baths of Marienbad[203]
Physiological and Medicinal Effects[204]
Notice of Dr. Herzig’s Work on Marienbad[206]
[CARLSBAD.]
Lobkowitz’s Ode to the Sprudel[208]
Ancient History of Carlsbad[209]
Description of the Sprudel[210]
Muhlbrunn[210]
Neubrunn—Theresienbrunn[211]
Sprudelsteins and Incrustations[211]
Serio-comic Anecdote of a Hypochondriac[212]
German Hypotheses respecting the Waters[212]
Picturesque situation of Carlsbad[212]
Hufeland’s Eulogy of the Carlsbad Waters[213]
Lord A’s wonderful cure[213]
Melancholy case of Surgeon Fraser[213]
Dr. De Carro’s opinions of the Waters[214]
Crowd of Hypochondriacs at Carlsbad[215]
Counter-indications[216]
Bad-sturm, or Crisis, of Carlsbad[217]
Regime at Carlsbad[218]
Almanac of Carlsbad[219]
Changes of fashion respecting the Springs[219]
The Sprudel on Calculous Complaints[220]
Dr. Hlawaczek on the Carlsbad Waters[221]
[VALETUDINARIUM.]
Physiognomy of Diseases at a great Spa[222]
Auxiliaries to Recovery at a large Sanitarium[222]
Medicinal Auxiliaries[224]
Moral and Physical Auxiliaries[226]
[GASTEIN];
or WILDBAD GASTEIN.
Romantic Situation of this Spa[228]
Sources and establishments[228]
Qualities of the Waters[229]
Disorders to which they are applicable[230]
[PRAGUE.]
Romantic and Picturesque appearance of the City[231]
[TEPLITZ.]
Picturesque Journey from Prague to Teplitz[232]
Splendid Bathing Establishments here[232]
Temperature of the Springs[233]
Former state of Public Baths—modern custom[233]
Dr. Richter’s Work on the Teplitz Waters[234]
Mode of Bathing and Remedial Agency[235]
Disorders to which the Waters are applicable[236]
Topography of the Contiguous Country[237]
Splendid View from the Spitalberg and Schlossberg[237]
Mr. Spitta on the Waters of Püllna, Saidschitz, and Sedlitz[238]
[TEPLITZ TO TETSCHEN.]
Battle-field of Culm—Historical Reminiscences[245]
Furious Combat between Vandamme and the Allies[247]
Bohemian Thermopylæ[248]
Napoleon’s Star fades for ever[248]
Tetschen—Count Thun’s Palace[249]
Enter Saxon Switzerland[249]
Remains of an Antediluvian World[250]
Monchenstein, a curious fragment of Rock[251]
Hernskretchen, Preberchthor, Kuhstall[251]
Kœnigstein, impregnable Fortress of[252]
Geological Reflections[253]
A German Hotel, comforts of[254]
[THE BASTEI.]
Singularly wild and rude Scene of the Bastei[255]
Geological Reflections—Antediluvian World[256]
Huge Natural Colliseum, and fine Echo[256]
Elbe to Dresden[257]
Pillnitz—Regal Felicity—Royal Dramatist[257]
[DRESDEN.]
First Impressions favourable[258]
Bridge, Palace, Cathedral, Theatre[258]
Magnificent View from the Cupola of the Cathedral[259]
Battle-field of August 1814—Tomb of Moreau—Star of Napoleon[259]
Character of Napoleon—Exhumation of his Ashes[260]
Royal Catholic Church—Music—The Requiem[261]
Picture Galleries of Dresden[261]
Jargon of the Connoiseurs[261]
Chef-d’œuvres of Art[262]
The Green Vaults—Reflections in[263]
The Rustkammer, or Armoury—Reflections[264]
Dresden China[265]
Tharand—an Excursion[265]
Revolution in Saxony, after that in Paris of 1830[266]
Privileges of the People[266]
Dresden to Leipzig[267]
An Oasis in the Desert[267]
[LEIPZIG.]
The Cradle and Grave of Literature[267]
Cerebro-gestation[268]
Retrospection from the Observatory[269]
The decisive Battle of Leipzig, Oct. 1814[270]
Cossack Valour[271]
Fall of Napoleon’s Star[271]
Magdeburg[272]
Advantages of Fortifications[272]
Navigation of the Elbe[273]
Hamburg[273]
Conclusion of the Second Pilgrimage[275]
[CHARACTERISTIC TRAITS OF GERMANY AND THE GERMANS.]
Difficulty of drawing characteristics[276]
1. Physiognomy—2. Language—3. Ideology—4. Unanimity[277]
5. Patience—6. Religion[277]
7. Affability[278]
Causes of Affability[278]
8. Education[279]
Normal Schools[280]
9. Learning[281]
10. The Press[282]
Censorship[282]
11. Domestic Manners[283]
12. Women[283]
13. Morality[284]
14. Socialism[284]
15. Time[284]
Time past[285]
Time present and to come[286]
16. Titles, Decorations[286]
17. Aerophobia[286]
18. Female Peasantry[287]
19. Status quo[287]
20. Locomotion[288]
21. The Burschen or Collegiate Youths[289]
22. German Cookery[290]
23. Gallic and German Patriotism[291]
24. Prisons[292]
25. Beds and Bed-rooms[293]
26. The German Stove versus English Chimney[295]
27. Verlobung, or betrothing[296]
28. March of Population[297]
29. Poetry[298]