FOOTNOTES
[1] These essences and colours are no new thing. Addison spoke of them nearly two hundred years ago in his “Trial of the Wine Brewers” in the Tatler. Tom Tintoret and Harry Sippet have left a large family behind them.
[2] See tailpiece, where a servant is coming to the assistance of her mistress.
[3] Jablonski is our authority for supposing it primarily an Egyptian drink. A zythum and a dizythum seem to have existed, corresponding, let us say, to our Single and Double X.
This zythum is nearly allied to the sacera of Palestine, the cesia of Spain, the cervisia of Gaul, the sebaia of Dalmatia, and the curmi or camum of Germany. According to Rabbi Joseph, this beer was made ⅓ barley, ⅓ Crocus Sylvestris, ⅓ salt. He adds, “He that is bound, it looseth; and he who is loose, it binds; and it is dangerous for pregnant women.”
[4] Information on this subject is given by Sir Edward Barry, Observations on the Wines of the Ancients; Henderson, History of Ancient and Modern Wines; and Becker’s Charicles.
[5] This is probably the murrhina of Plautus (Pseudol. ii. 4, 50)
[6] This drink must not be confounded with ὑδρόμελι, honey and water, our mead, or ὑδρόμήλον, our cider.
[7] Pliny, Nat. Hist. xiv. 19, etc.
[8] Line 964, etc.
[9] Line 4044, etc.
[10] Line 1387, etc.
[11] Line 1432, etc.
[12] Line 135, etc.
[13] Hist. Account of the Cathedral Church of York, Lond., 1715, p. 7.
[14] That division of the ancient kingdom of Northumberland, which was bounded by the river Humber southwards, and to the north by the Tyne.
[15] A liquor made of honey, wine, and spice.
[16] Honey, diluted with the juice of mulberries.
[17] In this sense it is apparently used in Gen. ix. 24: “Noah awoke from his wine.”
[18] From an Arabic word for antimony, applied to the eyes, the name is said to have been transferred to rectified spirits (C₂H₆O). It is a liquid formed by fermentation of aqueous sugar solutions. Spirit of Wine contains about 90 per cent. of alcohol. 55 parts of alcohol and 45 of water form proof spirit. Of alcohol, spirits contain 40-50 per cent.; wines, 7-25; ale and porter, 6-8; small beer, 1-2.
[19] Who would believe this from the specimens tasted in England? Yet we are assured the statement is perfectly true.
[20] Patterson’s Travels in Caffraria, p. 92.
[21] One of these inspired Longfellow, who thinks (poetically) the richest wine is that of the West, which grows by the beautiful river, whose sweet perfume fills the apartment, with a benison on the giver:—
“Very good in its way is the Verzenay,
Or the Sillery, soft and creamy;
But Catawba wine has a taste more divine,
More dulcet, delicious, and dreamy.”
A dreamy taste is something startling even in poetical description.
[22] Chili has lately taken Paris medals for its wines; it also produces a light and wholesome beer.
[23] The rébêche is principally sold to people manufacturing cheap Champagnes; by mixing with other wines of very light complexion, they give them body, and make a stuff which can be produced at a very low price.
[24] De Proprietatibus Rerum. Argent. 1485, lib. xix. cap. 56.
[25] Blount’s Fragmenta Antiquitatis. Sec. “Grand Serjeantry,” No. IV.
[26] The Wines of the World, Characterized and Classed, 1875, pp. 16, 17.
[27] This wine is said to profit much by a quiescent state of the air afforded by the town wall.
[28] A wine at Homburg, called Erlacher, at about one mark a bottle, is, says Dr. Charnock, frequently superior to the ordinary Niersteiner.
[29] “Hock,” says one of those wine circulars, which weary alike the postman and the public, “is the English name for the noble vintages of the Rhine, which afford models of what wine ought to be. Their purity is attested by their durability. They are almost imperishable. They increase appetite, they exhilarate without producing languor, and they purify the blood. The Germans say good Hock keeps off the doctor. Southey says it deserves to be called the Liquor of Life. And so Pindar would have called it, if he had ever tasted it.” Nothing surely can be added to this description of its virtues.
[30] Thus unfortunately translated, “Rhine wine is good, Neckar pleasant, Frankfort bad, Moselle innocent.” But Moselle, we have been told, is very far from “innocent.” Unnosel is without bouquet. Tranken means not bad but drinkable, and lecker is rather lickerish than good. A sample of the same carelessness occurs on the next page, where ein weinfask von anderhalb ahm ein pipe is intended to express ein Weinfass von anderthalb Ohm, eine Pipe. It is a pity that an excellent work, to which we, as many writers on wine like ourselves, have been deeply indebted, should be marred by these irregularities.
[31] Colonel Leake described the ordinary country wine as a villainous compound of lime, resin, spirits of wine, and grapes, without body or flavour. Nor were things better in the days of old. Dugald Dalgetty, a German Ensign, writing from Athens in 1687, says, “Would that I could exchange a cask of Athenian wine for a cask of German beer!” The vin du pays is impregnated with resin or turpentine now as formerly, whence, according to Plutarch, the Thyrsus of Bacchus is adorned with a pine cone. Pliny says it favours the preservation of the drink.
[32] The island owes this name to its patron saint Irene, martyred here A.D. 304.
[33] The value attached to this wine is one example among many of the caprice of fashion. The Muscadine of Syracuse or the Lagrima of Malaga is equal to it in richness, and few people would prefer it to other wines, did they dare to contradict the decision of fashion in its favour, and to have a taste of their own.
[34] So called from its green colour. It is said to have been a favourite wine of Frederick the Great. It is held now in slighter esteem.
[35] Called Est Est from the writing under the bust of the valet of the bibulous German bishop Defoucris, who drank himself to death, upon which his valet composed his epitaph.
‘Est est,’ propter minium ‘est,’.
Dominus meus mortuus est.
Reverence for antiquity is our sole excuse for the reproduction of these wretched lines. Monte Pulciano has also the credit of having killed a Churchman. Other wines doubtless have had the same honour.
[36] “Let no man,” says the Talmud, “send his neighbour wine with oil upon its surface.”—Chulin, fol. 94, col. 1.
[37] Malmsey wine is also a product of Funchal, in Madeira. The first so-called wine was shipped for Francis I. of France. The word is probably a corruption of Malvasia or Monemvasia (μόνη ἐμβασία, or single entrance), a Greek island from which the grape may have been brought by the Florentine Acciajoli in 1515.
[38] Rota wines are mostly coloured, or Tintos, whence our English sacramental drink. They are all simmered—at their best in youth, and their worst in age.
[39] Supposed by some to be the old English Sack. The reader interested may consult Hakluyt, Nicols, Hewell’s Dictionary, and Venner’s Via Recta.
[40] The etymology is uncertain. Some derive it from the town near Seville, others from the Spanish word for an apple, and others again from that for a camomile flower.
[41] Valley of Rocks, indicating the soil on which it is grown.
[42] It is frequently damaged by the carelessness of the vinatero, or wine-seller, to such an extent that the proverb Pregonar vino y vender vinagre becomes, like wisdom, justified of her children.
[43] So called from the grape common in most parts of Spain.
[44] The fine old Amoroso, of which a small stock is still remaining.
[45] So called from the battle of Birs, in the reign of Louis XI., in which 1,600 Swiss opposed 30,000 French, and only sixteen of the former survived. The fallen succumbed, we are told, less to the power of the foe than to the fatigue of the fighting.
[46] It is supposed by the erudite divine, Adam Clarke, to be probably borrowed from the Hebrew word שֵׁכָר, Greek σίκερα, which, according to St. Jerome (Epist. ad Nepotianum de vita Clericorum, et in Isai. xxvii. 1), means any intoxicating liquor, whether of honey, corn, apples, dates, or other fruits.
[47] In a treatise of the Talmud, Abodah Zarah, fol. 40, col. 2, cider is called “wine of apples.”
[48] Walker: Hist. Essay on Gardening, p. 166. Anthologia Hibernica, i. 194.
[49] The extra dry old lauded or pale cremant, or the extra reserve Cuvée, 1884 vintage.
[50] For further information, see Crocker, Marshall, Knight, and especially Stopes.
[51] The French name, Eau de Vie, having the same meaning.
[52] “The Vertuose boke of Distyllacyon of the Waters of all maner of Herbes, with the fygures of the styllatoryes, Fyrst made and compyled by the thyrte yeres study and labour of the most con̅ynge and famous master of phisyke, Master Iherom bruynswyke. And now newly Translated out of Duyche into Englysshe,” etc. Lond., 1572.
[53] Lethargy.
[54] Belching.
[55] Pleurisy.
[56] A Spanish Wine.
[57] ? Orrice.
[58] Stir.
[59] Phial.
[60] Adam and Eve stript of their furbelows, 1710 (?)
[61] Act III., s. 3.
[62] My Life and Recollections, Vol. I., p. 59.
[63] Now called Athol brose.
[64] Of the word gill-house a recent editor of Pope observes that it is doubtful whether it is to be understood as a house where gill, or beer impregnated with ground-ivy, was sold, or whether as an inferior tavern, where beer was sold by the measure known as a gill.
[65] There are two other prints connected with this event, all published at the same time. One is “The Funeral Procession of Madame Geneva, Sept. 29, 1736.” The other is a Memorial, “To the Mortal Memory of Madame Geneva, who died Sept. 29, 1736. Her weeping Servants and loving Friends, consecrate this Tomb.”
[66] Whose premises were burnt down during the Lord George Gordon riots. Dickens immortalized Langdale in Barnaby Rudge. The distillery is still in existence at the same place.
[67] A whistling shop was a sly grog-shop. No spirits were allowed in the Fleet prison, but of course they were introduced, and could be got at some places. The method of telling who could be trusted, was for the customers to whistle—hence the term.
[68] Alcoholic Drinks, 1884, p. 67.
[69] Scott’s Ivanhoe, cap. iii.
[70] Morat is a composition of honey and mulberries, from which latter its name is derived.
[71] According to their first institution the Jesuits were not priests. This was conceded to them afterwards by Paul V. Their primitive principal occupation was the assistance of the sick and the distillation of salutiferous waters, whence they were known as “padri dell’ acquavite,” or Fathers of brandies.
[72] A liqueur made with the flower of citron.
[73] Ad majorem Dei gloriam.
[74] Roret’s “Manuel du distillateur-liquoriste.”
[75] Gui-Patin Lettres, ii. 425.
[76] One of the most important liqueur manufactories is that of Marie Brizard and Roger of Bordeaux. In 1755 Marie Brizard, in the Quartier S. Pierre, a lady of much devotion and charity, devoted a large portion of her time, in imitation of the monks, to the concoction of medicinal cordials. Of these, her Anisette, so called from its chief ingredient, soon attained a wide reputation. Roger married the niece of this lady, and the firm is now known under their joint names. They manufacture many other liqueurs, but are still chiefly famous for the old medicinal cordial.
[77] الاكسير, alacsir, from ξηρόν, dry.
[78] Here is the etymological process for the linguistic student: Ligusticum; Lat., levisticum; Fr., luvesche, leveshe, livèche; O. Eng., livish, lovage. The Italian has the form libistico, and the Portuguese levistico.
[79] A technical term.
[80] So called because said to be prepared from the maidenhair fern, Adiantum capillus Veneris; “but,” says Pereira, (Materia Medica), “the liqueur sold in the shops under this name is nothing but clarified syrup flavoured with orange-flower water.”
[81] These colours by which soi-disant connoisseurs profess to determine the excellence of the liqueur, are in most cases merely adscititious. Rules are given for their manufacture. Rose, for instance, is the outcome of cochineal or sanders wood steeped for a fortnight in spirits of wine. Blue, of indigo and sulphuric acid. Yellow, of saffron. Pink, of cudbear, a corruption of the name of the chemist, Dr. Cuthbert Gordon, who first employed this lichen; and green, of blue and yellow mixed.
[82] A pharmaceutical term for volatile oil of orange flowers. Said to be derived from an Italian princess, Néroli, who invented it.
[83] From Arabic خلنج Khulanj, “a tree from which wooden bowls are made,” Richardson. A dried rhizome brought from China, an aromatic stimulant of the nature of ginger. The drug is mostly produced by Alpinia officinarum.
[84] Also called Luft-Wasser.
[85] Only an Italian, we are told, can make this liqueur. The composition is a dark secret, but, we are also told, it originated in Austria, and is a mixture of tea, wine and milk in unknown quantities.
[86] Said, on account of its carminative properties, to be derived from the three words vesse, pet, and rot, which it is not incumbent upon us to translate.
[87] Merely a corruption of Usquebaugh.
[88] So called from the inventor. Said to be useful in stomachic affections.
[89] Sic, aimable (?)
[90] So called because made with guignes, Sp. guindas; dark red, very sweet cherries, smaller than the bigarreaux. The Guignolet d’Angers is especially famous.
[91] This is composed of fennel, celery, coriander, and angelica.
[92] Sometimes written Karoy. Carum carve, L., from the Greek κάρον, an umbelliferous plant of which the root by culture becomes edible. The fruit is analogous to that of anise.
[93] Also written more correctly d’Hendaye; white, yellow, and green, according to its alcoholic strength.
[94] Cassis would appear to be the name of a ville (Bouches-du-Rhone) which has a commerce of wine and fruit.
[95] Stolberg’s Travels, i., 146.
[96] Germ. Wermuth, absinthe or wormwood, plant of genus Artemisia—perhaps originally connected with warm, on account of the warmth it produces in the stomach. This bitter, though commonly quoted under liqueurs, should be classed with Quinine Wine, Angostura, Khoosh, etc., Juglandine, made in France from the walnut, Malakoff made in Silesia, the Shaddock and Quassia bitters of the West Indies, and the Schapps bitter of Switzerland.
[97] The dictionary explanations of these terms are commonly unsatisfactory. The experience of the bar-tender is more than the learning of the lexicographer. Cobbler, indeed, is well explained as compounded of wine, sugar, lemon, and sucked up through a straw; but of cocktail we only learn that it is a compounded drink much used in America. The etymologies given are generally satisfactory. Julep is from گلاب rose water. Mull from mulled, erroneously taken as a past participle. According to Wedgwood, mulled is a form of mould, and mulled ale is funeral ale, potatio funerosa. Nogg is from noggin, signifying a pot, and then the strong beer which it contains. Negus is commonly known to have been the invention of Col. Francis Negus in the reign of Anne. Punch is of course from the Hindustani پانچ, signifying 5, from its five original ingredients, to wit, aqua vitæ, rose water, sugar, arrack, and citron juice. A very unsatisfactory derivation of Sangaree is from the Spanish sangria, the incision of a vein. Shrub is clearly the Arabic شرب or syrup. Smash, explained curtly as “iced brandy and water.” (Slang) is probably from the smashing of the ice; while sling seems evidently to be from the German schlingen, to swallow.
[98] The verdict of François Guislier du Verger, the master-distiller in the art of chemistry at Paris, in his Traité des Liqueurs, in 1728, is altogether unfavourable to what he calls Le Ponge. “It is,” he says, “an English liqueur, and a man must be English to drink it; for I think it cannot be to the taste of any other nation in the world. It upsets the stomach, provokes the bile, and violently affects the head. How, indeed, can it be otherwise, seeing that it is composed of white wine, Eau de vie, citrons, a little sugar, and bread crumbs.” And then follows the observation: “If water were put instead of Eau de vie, with an equal quantity of wine, a citron, and four ounces of sugar, a liqueur suitable to every one would be the result, a liqueur which would do as much good as the other does harm.”
[99] Such at least is the signification of sangaree as far as American drinks are concerned. But Sang-gris is said by Bescherelle to be a mixture of tea in wine amongst the sailors of the North. Perhaps the name is taken from the colour. It recalls David Garrick’s “Why, the tea is as red as blood.” In the West Indies it is made of Madeira, water, lime juice, and sugar. Spices are sometimes added. Pinckard’s “West Indies,” i. 469.
[100] Shrub is called santa in Jamaica. It is made in the West Indies with rum, syrup, and orange-peel.
[101] The Slang Dictionary, however, defines Sling as a drink peculiar to Americans, generally composed of gin, soda-water, ice, and slices of lemon. At some houses (understand public) in London gin slings may be obtained. Francatelli has an exquisite note on Gin Sling, which he directs to be sucked through a straw. “I fear that very genteel persons will be exceedingly shocked at my words; but when I tell them that the very act of imbibition through a straw prevents the gluttonous absorption of large and baneful quantities of drink, they will, I make no doubt, accept the vulgar precept for the sake of its protection against sudden inebriety.”
[102] Aromatic tincture: Ginger, cinnamon, orange peel, each 1 oz.; valerian, ½ oz.; alcohol, 2 quarts. Macerate for fourteen days and filter through unsized paper.
[103] Those who wish to investigate the antiquity of beer may find ample matter to supply their desire in a work commonly attributed to Archdeacon Rolleston, entitled, “Οινος Κριθινος, a dissertation concerning the origin and antiquity of barley wine.” Oxford, 1750.
[104] Much has been written on the comparative merits of wine and beer. Perhaps as good a remark as any on this subject was made by a modern tradesman who, wishing to sell both, explained that, while strongly advocating the introduction of wine, he did not at all intend to depreciate the merits of our national beverage, beer. Where, he continued, plenty of out-door exercise is taken, and little intellectual effort is demanded, good beer is perhaps the most wholesome of all drinks; and therefore he advised the “labouring man,” who could not probably afford to buy wine, to drink beer, while others, who might be supposed able to afford wine, were warned that they could not drink beer with impunity.
[105] The world has little altered since the time of Martial (i. 19).
“scelus est jugulare Falernum,
Et dare Campano toxica sæva mero.”
[106] This is the sweet potato, introduced into Europe before the common potato.
[107] For an interesting account of this, vid., Dr., Charnock’s Verba Nominalia.
[108] Beajus, which in Malay signifies a wild man.
[109] Roggewein’s Voyage Round the World.
[110] According to Kotzebue, old women chew, as in the South American chica—let us hope this cannot be correct—and little girls spit on it to thin the paste. Kotzebue’s New Voyage Round the World, vol. ii., p. 170.
[111] From the old French Pallir, to become vapid, lose spirit. Washy stuff.
[112] See second part of Westminster Drollery, 1672.
[113] General Monk’s receipt is given in the Harleian Miscellany, i., 524. London, 1744.
[114] “Mum’s the word,” etc.
[115] Der Bierbrauer, Prag., 1874.
[116] Hamilton’s Account of Nepaul.
[117] Pinckard’s Notes, p. 429.
[118] Robertson’s History of America, ii., 7.
[119] This is the beverage in general use. Titsingh’s Japan. Some writers have connected it with our “sack.”
[120] When cold, it is said to produce serki, a species of fatal colic.
[121] For this list we are indebted to the courtesy of Messrs. Gow, Wilson & Stanton, 13, Rood Lane, London, E.C.
[122] Messrs. William, James & Henry Thompson, 38, Mincing Lane London.
[123] Messrs. Gow, Wilson & Stanton.
[124] In September, 1890, a small parcel of Flowering Pekoe fetched, at public sale, 36s. per lb., and this price has been largely exceeded on former occasions.
“A parcel of tea from the Oriental Bank Estates Company’s Havilland Estate in Ceylon was sold at auction in Mincing Lane yesterday for £17 per lb., or over one guinea an ounce.”—Standard, May 6th, 1891.
“A small lot of Golden Tip Ceylon tea from the Gartmore Estate was sold by auction in Mincing Lane yesterday to the Mazawattee Ceylon Tea Company at £25 10s. per lb.”—Standard, May 8th, 1891.
[125] Messrs. Wm. Jas. and Hy. Thompson.
[126] Joannis Petri Maffeii Bergomatis, e Societate Jesu, Historiarum Indicarum, etc. Florentiæ, 1588.
[127] Delle Cause della grandezza delle Città, etc., del Giovanni Botero. Milano, ed. 1596, p. 61.
[128] Divers Voyages et Missions du P. Alexandre de Rhodes, en la Chine, & autres Royaumes de l’Orient, etc. Paris, 1653, p. 49.
[129] Catharine of Braganza, wife of Charles II.
[130] Portugal.
[131] The Works of Thomas Brown, ed. 1708, vol. iii., p. 86.
[132] His friend Tyers parodied the last phrase as “te inviente die, te decedente.”
[133] Relation du voyage de la Mer du Sud, aux côtes du Chily, et du Pérou, fait pendant les années 1712, 13, 14, par Amédée François Frezier. Paris, 1716, 4ᵒ.
[134] Joyfull Newes out of the newe founde Worlde, etc. Englished, by Jhon Frampton, Marchaunt, 1577, fol 101 b.
[135] Garden beds in which seeds are planted.
[136] Lima.
[137] Tschudi travelled in Peru, 1838-1842.
[138] Travels in Peru, by C. R. Markham, 1862, p. 237.
[139] In 1861, the cesto of Coca sold at 8 dollars in Sandia. In Huanaco it was 5 dollars the aroba of 25 lbs.
[140] Ed. 1879, p. 363.
[141] A Description of the Coasts of North and South Guinea, etc., by John Barbot, etc. Now first printed from his original MS., 1732.
[142] Part 2, Section 5.—Mem. 1, Sub. 5.
[143] For a list of 500 Coffee Houses, see Appendix to Social Life in the Reign of Queen Anne, by John Ashton.
[144] Memoirs and Observations in his Travels over England, etc.
[145] A Brief Description of the excellent Vertues of that Sober and Wholesome Drink called Coffee. 1674, s. sh. fol.
[146] The Mineral Water Maker’s Manual for 1866, from which many receipts are taken with thanks.
[147] Twaddell’s Hydrometer. From 11 to 12 lbs. sugar to the gallon should give something near this specific gravity.
[148] A sufficient quantity.
[149] About 8½ lbs. loaf sugar to the gallon of water should produce this S. G.
[150] An extract made from orange flowers.
[151] Or Butyric Ether, known as Essence of Pine-apple.
[152] Jargonelle Ether.
[153] Beware, however, of one compound ether, which gives the taste of cinnamon, and is, Ethyl Perchlorate. This mixture is explosive!!!
[154] Raspberries.
[155] The form of this thanksgiving is very nearly akin to that said on the occasion of eating any of the five kinds of cooked food from which the challah is due.
[156] Arist., Metaph., i., 3.
[157] Seneca, Nat. Quæst., iii., 13.
[158] Ibid., iv., 13.
[159] Pliny, Nat. Hist., xxiii., 24.
[160] p. 220.
[161] Other authorities concerning this remarkable drinking fountain are Nieremberg (Occult. Philos., ii., 350), Clavijo, Cairasio, and Dapper.
[162] Harper’s New Monthly Magazine, xi., p. 499.
[163] The mushroom used by the Chukchees is described by Lansdell, Through Siberia, ii., 269, as “spotted like a leopard, and surmounted by a small hood—the fly agaric, which here has the top scarlet, flecked with white points. It sells for three or four reindeer.” So powerful is the fungus that the native who eats it remains drunk for several days. Half a dozen persons may be successively intoxicated by a single mushroom, but every one in a less degree than his predecessor. Goldsmith, Chinese Philosopher.
[164] Another description is, “Ale mixed with pepper and honey.”
Quem quicunque parum moderato gutture traxit,
Haud aliter turbat quam si mera vina bibisset.
—Ovid, Metam., xv., 329.
[166] The Hindustani گهي.
[167] A corruption of the Turkish يوغرت Yughurt.
[168] Lockman’s Travels of the Jesuits, i., 218.
[169] P. Alex. de Rhodes, Voyages et Missions. P. de Marini, On the Kingdom of Tonquin.
[170] A word which, according to the Glossarium Suiogothicum, originally meant simply bread and butter. It now comprehends anchovies and other antepasts.
[171] So called probably from its being overgrown with fennel (μαραθρῶν in Strabo, 160).