ICE CREAM
Ice cream has fast become the national dessert served on all festive occasions, winter and summer. Originally it meant a frozen mixture of sweetened and flavored milk and cream, but the name has long been applied to all kinds of frozen delicacies in which cream enters as a constituent. Not even there has the line been drawn, but gums, gelatine, cornstarch, eggs and other “fillers” have been substituted or added to thicken the mixtures and give “body” to “creams,” which have but little relation to the genuine emulsion of butter-fat from cow’s milk. Standardization has been attempted by National and State food authorities with varying success of enforcement. While the application of the name to a great variety of frozen desserts has no doubt become legitimate by long usage it may properly be demanded that as an article of merchandise “ice cream” shall contain at least 8% to 12% butter-fat and that no ingredients dangerous to health enter into its manufacture.
Hand freezer
Freezers.—The freezing is usually done by contact of the material with metal cooled on the other side by a “freezing mixture” of salt and ice which produces temperatures far below the freezing point of water while air is whipped into the cream by the rapid motion of the beater. A great variety of excellent freezers of this kind for hand or for power are on the market which answer the purpose for making ice cream at home or at the ice cream parlor.
Coarse-grained salt and crushed ice, mixed in the proportion of 1 part salt to 4 parts of ice, are constantly filled into the space surrounding the ice cream can, and the brine produced by the melting of the mixture is gradually drawn off from the tub. In a good freezer the operation should not take over fifteen minutes. When the cream is frozen to a soft mush, stop the beater and scrape down the hard particles which may have accumulated on the sides of the can, add any ingredients which may be better incorporated at this stage than mixed into the original material, such as crushed fruit or preserves, and finish the freezing without carrying it too far.
Remove the beater, stir the cream which should still be soft enough to handle, and pack in ice with only a little salt. Or the cream may be transferred from the freezer can to the shipping can and packed in it. If bricks are wanted the soft cream is packed in molds of the desired shape and size and buried in the freezing mixture to harden.
In modern ice cream factories Brine Freezers are generally used. In a Refrigerator Plant intensely low temperatures are produced by the vaporizing of compressed ammonia or carbonic acid in an ice machine, and brine circulating in iron pipes is cooled by such medium and may, in turn, cool the air in the Cold Storage room, or the cream in the freezer, or pure water in metal boxes for the manufacture of Artificial Ice. It has been attempted to make the brine freezers continuous, the cream mixture being fed into the machine at one end and discharged frozen at the other. But this system has not so far been successful, and intermittent or batch freezers are most practical yet both for hand and for power.
Power brine freezer
Rich material, frozen in a good machine, whether intermittent or continuous, will expand from 50% to 100%, and the original material should not fill the freezer can more than half full.
The manufacture of ice cream has been the subject of study and experiments for years in the Dairy Department of the Agricultural College at Ames, Iowa, where Professor M. Mortensen has worked out a comprehensive classification from which any manufacturer may readily choose his formulas, modifying them to suit his local conditions and special problems. The outline kindly furnished the author by Professor Mortensen is so interesting and instructive as to be well worth copying substantially in full, leaving out the “Ices” in which no milk or cream is used and which are therefore not of special interest in connection with the purpose of this book—the use of more and better milk.
Ice cream factory
CLASSIFICATION ADOPTED AT IOWA EXPERIMENT STATION
Considering the work of former writers as well as names used by business men, the following classification was worked out by the station:
| I. | Plain Ice Creams. |
| II. | Nut Ice Creams. |
| III. | Fruit Ice Creams. |
| IV. | Bisque Ice Creams. |
| V. | Parfaits. |
| VI. | Mousses. |
| VII. | Puddings. |
| VIII. | Aufaits. |
| IX. | Lactos. |
Explanation and Formulas
I. Plain Ice Cream is a frozen product made from cream and sugar with or without a natural flavoring.
Formulas are given for making ten gallons of finished ice cream.
Vanilla Ice Cream:
5 gallons 25% cream
8 lbs. sugar
4 oz. vanilla extract
Chocolate Ice Cream:
5 gallons cream
10 lbs. sugar
1½ lbs. bitter chocolate
4 oz. vanilla extract
Maple Ice Cream:
5 gallons 25% cream
6 lbs. cane sugar
2 lbs. maple sugar
2 oz. caramel
4 oz. vanilla extract
Caramel Ice Cream:
5 gallons 25% cream
8 lbs. sugar
12 oz. caramel
4 oz. vanilla extract
Coffee Ice Cream:
5 gallons 25% cream
8 lbs. cane sugar
Extract from 1 lb. coffee
Mint Ice Cream:
5 gallons 25% cream
8 lbs. cane sugar
1 pt. concentrated Creme de Menthe syrup
Few drops green coloring.
II. Nut Ice Cream is a frozen product made from cream and sugar and sound non-rancid nuts.
Walnut Ice Cream:
5 gallons 25% cream
8 lbs. cane sugar
4 oz. vanilla extract
4 lbs. of walnut meats.
According to this general formula the following nut ice creams may be prepared by substituting different kinds of nut meats:
Chestnut Ice Cream
Filbert Ice Cream
Hazelnut Ice Cream
Pecan Ice Cream
Peanut Ice Cream
Almond Ice Cream
Pistachio Ice Cream.
At times pistachio ice cream is made from oil of pistachio instead of from the nuts. If thus prepared, it will come under the head of plain ice cream.
III. Fruit Ice Cream is a frozen product made from cream, sugar and sound, clean, mature fruits.
Strawberry Ice Cream:
5 gallons 25% cream
8 lbs. sugar
½ gallon crushed strawberries.
Employing the same formula the following creams may be made by merely substituting other fruits and berries for the strawberries. The amount of sugar may be varied according to the acidity of the fruit.
Pineapple Ice Cream
Raspberry Ice Cream
Cherry Ice Cream
Peach Ice Cream
Apricot Ice Cream
Currant Ice Cream
Grape Ice Cream
Cranberry Ice Cream.
Preparation of lemon and orange ice creams cannot be included under this general rule. These creams may be prepared as follows:
Lemon Ice Cream:
5 gallons 25% cream
10 lbs. sugar
2 pts. lemon juice
1 pt. orange juice
Orange Ice Cream:
5 gallons 25% cream
10 lbs. sugar
2 qts. orange juice
½ pt. lemon juice.
IV. Bisque Ice Cream is a frozen product made from cream, sugar and bread products, marshmallows or other confections, with or without other natural flavoring.
Macaroon Ice Cream:
5 gallons 25% cream
8 lbs. sugar
4 oz. vanilla extract
5 lbs. ground macaroons.
From this formula we can make:
Grape Nut Ice Cream
Nabisco Ice Cream
Sponge Cake Ice Cream
Marshmallow Ice Cream.
V. Parfait is a frozen product made from cream, sugar and egg yolks with or without nuts or fruits and other natural flavoring.
Walnut Parfait:
4 gallons 30% cream
Yolks of 10 dozen eggs
14 lbs. sugar
4 oz. vanilla extract
4 lbs. walnut meats.
From this formula by substituting the nut meats we can make:
Filbert Parfait
Almond Parfait
Peanut Parfait
Hazelnut Parfait, etc.
By substituting the same proportion of fruits as are used for fruit ice cream, for the vanilla extract and nut meats, fruit parfaits such as strawberry, raspberry and cherry parfaits and others may be prepared.
Coffee Parfait:
4 gallons 30% cream
Yolks of 10 dozen eggs
14 lbs. sugar
Extract from 1 lb. coffee
Maple Parfait:
4 gallons 30% cream
Yolks of 10 dozen eggs
4 lbs. maple sugar
10 lbs. cane sugar
2 oz. caramel paste
Tutti-Frutti:
4 gallons 30% cream
Yolks of 10 dozen eggs
14 lbs. cane sugar
4 oz. vanilla extract
3 lbs. candied cherries
3 lbs. candied assorted fruit
3 lbs. pineapple.
VI. Mousse is a frozen whipped cream to which sugar and natural flavoring have been added.
Cranberry Mousse:
2 gallons 30% cream
4 lbs. cane sugar
1 qt. cranberry juice
¼ pt. lemon juice.
From the same formula combinations may be made with various other fruit juices and natural flavors, such as coffee, vanilla, maple, caramel, pistachio, etc.
Sultana roll, as indicated by the name, is made in a round mold. The center of the mold is filled with tutti-frutti, and the outside with pistachio mousse.
VII. Pudding is a product made from cream or milk, with sugar, eggs, nuts and fruits, highly flavored.
Nesselrode Pudding:
3 gallons 30% cream
10 dozen eggs
10 lbs. cane sugar
4 oz. vanilla extract
6 lbs. candied cherries and assorted fruits
4 lbs. raisins
4 lbs. macaroons
Manhattan Pudding:
3 gallons 30% cream
10 dozen eggs
12 lbs. sugar
2 qts. orange juice
1 pt. lemon juice
4 lbs. walnut meats
4 lbs. pecan meats
4 lbs. cherries and assorted fruits
Plum Pudding:
3 gallons 30% cream
10 dozen eggs
10 lbs. sugar
2½ lbs. chocolate
4 lbs. cherries and assorted fruits
2 lbs. raisins
2 lbs. figs
1 lb. walnut meats
3 teaspoonfuls ground cinnamon
½ teaspoonful ground cloves.
VIII. Aufait is a brick cream consisting of layers of one or more kinds of cream with solid layers of frozen fruits.
Fig aufait may be made from three layers of cream of various flavors with two layers of whole or sliced figs. It is most satisfactory to slice the figs lengthwise in halves.
Other aufaits may be made from a variety of preserved fruits and berries and combined with different creams.
IX. Lacto is a product manufactured from skimmed or whole sour milk, eggs and sugar, with or without natural flavoring.
Formulas for lactos may be found in Bulletin No. 140 published by the Ames Station.
As an example, the following mixture will make 5 gallons of
Cherry Lacto:
3 gallons lacto milk
9 pounds sugar
12 eggs
1 quart of cherry juice or concentrated cherry syrup
1½ pints lemon juice
“Lacto Milk” is the same as described under “Commercial Buttermilk” and “Thick Milk,” pages 81 and 82.
The sugar is first dissolved in the lacto milk. The eggs are then prepared. The whites and yolks are kept in separate containers and each lot is beaten with an egg beater. Both the yolks and whites are then added to the milk. The mixture is thoroughly stirred and strained through a fine wire gauze. The fruit juices are added last. The freezer is now run until it turns with difficulty when the paddle is removed. The brine is removed and the freezer repacked with ice and salt and left for an hour before the contents are served.
Orange, Mint, Pineapple, Maraschino, Raspberry or Grape Lacto may be prepared by substituting any of these flavors for the Cherry.
X. Ices are frozen products made from water or sweet skimmed or whole milk, and sugar, with or without eggs, fruit juices or other natural flavoring.
Ices may be for convenience divided into sherbets, milk sherbets, frappes, punches and souffles.
Milk Sherbet is an ice made from sweet skimmed or whole milk with egg albumen, sugar and natural flavoring, frozen to the consistency of ice cream.
Pineapple Milk Sherbet:
6 gallons milk
20 lbs. sugar
Whites of 2 dozen eggs
1 gallon pineapple pulp
1 qt. lemon juice.
Milk sherbets of various flavors may be prepared according to above formula by substituting other flavorings.
The formulas presented above have been given mainly for the purpose of making clear the difference between the various groups. Numerous other formulas may be prepared on the same general outline.
Prof. Mortensen’s formulas are mostly made out for ten gallons of ice cream. It is hardly necessary to call attention to the fact that they can easily be adapted to any smaller quantities by reducing each of the ingredients alike. For instance, to make:
1 gallon of Plain Vanilla Ice Cream, divide the figures given above by 10 and use:
2 quarts 25% cream
¾ lbs. sugar
½ oz. vanilla extract.
To make:
1 quart of Strawberry Ice Cream, divide by 40 and use:
1 pint 25% cream
3 oz. sugar
Crushed strawberries to taste.
Professor Mortensen, behind the vat at the left, giving a lesson in the making of ice cream at Ames
It will be noticed that in the formulas worked out at Ames as above, very rich cream is used,—with a fat contents of 25% or 30%,—which makes exceedingly rich ice creams and great expansion in freezing. The ordinary ice cream maker will usually employ cheaper material, mixing some milk in the cream and standardizing the material to suit his local trade. Also most housekeepers making ice cream at home will find it convenient and economical to use a mixture of milk and cream and in doing so one must not expect so much expansion.
In many places outside of dairy sections cream is scarce and condensed milk is substituted to a large extent. Lately milk powder has come into use and Emulsified Cream has become popular. Skim-milk powder and unsalted butter may be kept in stock and be available at any time, and by means of an Emulsifier they are united again into a product identical with the milk or cream from which they were originally separated.
Junket Ice Cream.—By setting a mixture of milk and cream with a solution of Junket Tablets and allowing it to jelly before freezing, the body of the cream may be improved so that a material of comparatively low fat-percentage will make a very good ice cream, rich enough for most people and especially well suited for invalids and children. Ice-cold milk or cream is rather hard to digest for a weak or delicate stomach because the action of the rennet in the digestive juice is imperfect and slow except at blood-temperature. In Junket Ice Cream, however, such action takes place before it is eaten and the digestive ferment of the stomach is relieved of that function. For that reason Junket Ice Cream is considered healthier than the ordinary frozen products and may be indulged in freely by children and invalids.
The following are examples of tested Junket Ice Creams:
Vanilla Ice Cream
Dissolve two Junket Tablets in a tablespoonful of cold water, heat two quarts of milk and one pint of cream lukewarm in which has been dissolved one cup of sugar and two teaspoonfuls of vanilla flavor, then add the dissolved Junket Tablet, stir quickly for one-half minute and pour into ice cream can, let stand undisturbed ten or fifteen minutes or until set. Pack with ice and salt and freeze.
Pistachio Ice Cream
Excerpt from an article by Alice Bradley in “Woman’s Home Companion”
This is the best ice cream for the money that we know. It may be made ready for the freezer early in the morning, and kept in the ice box until it is convenient to freeze it. It is quite possible to utilize cream that is not perfectly fresh.
Put in the can of the freezer one pint of milk, one-half cup of heavy cream, one-third cup sugar, one teaspoonful vanilla, one-half teaspoon of almond extract, a few grains of salt, and vegetable color paste to make a delicate green color. Set the freezer in a pan of hot water. As soon as the mixture is lukewarm, add one Junket Tablet dissolved in one tablespoon cold water. Mix thoroughly and let stand until firm. Put in the ice box until ready to freeze, then put can in the freezer tub, adjust the crank, put in three small measures of ice that has been crushed in a heavy bag or shaved fine with an ice shaver, cover this evenly with one measure of rock salt, add three measures more of ice and one of salt, let stand five minutes and then turn the crank of the freezer for about ten minutes, when it may be turned a little more rapidly. Continue the turning until the mixture is firm.
Remove the dasher, pack ice cream solidly into the can, surround with four measures of ice to one of salt, cover with heavy burlap bag or newspaper and keep in a cold place until needed. Be sure the opening in the side of the freezer tub is not plugged up, so that any surplus of salt water will drain off instead of getting into the freezer. It may be necessary to repack the freezer if the cream is frozen very long in advance of the meal. The cream may be put into a mold, set in the fireless cooker kettle, surrounded with ice and salt and left in the fireless cooker all day. Peel peaches, cut in thin slices, sprinkle with sugar and set in the ice box to chill. To serve, place peaches in chilled dessert glasses, cover with ice cream and garnish each with a candied cherry.
In the following recipes the cream is added after the junket prepared from mixtures of milk, sugar and flavors has been partly frozen, a method which is preferred by many.
Coffee Ice Cream
Make a cup of very strong coffee, add it to two quarts of warm milk in which one cup of sugar has been dissolved, taste in order to see if the flavor is strong enough, add three dissolved Junket Tablets, stir quickly for one-half minute, pour into ice cream can and let stand undisturbed ten or fifteen minutes or until set. Pack with ice and salt; freeze to a thick mush before adding one pint of cream, then continue freezing.
Simmons College Peach Ice Cream
Heat two quarts of milk lukewarm in which has been dissolved one cup of sugar and two teaspoonfuls of vanilla flavor, add two dissolved Junket Tablets, stir quickly for one-half minute and pour into ice cream can, let stand undisturbed ten or fifteen minutes or until set. Pack with ice and salt; freeze to a thick mush before adding one pint of cream and crushed and sweetened peaches, then continue freezing. Save the needed amount of peaches to serve on top of ice cream.
Frozen pudding, strawberries, bananas, or pineapple, may be added in this way when making any Junket Ice Cream.
Orange Sherbet
Heat two quarts of milk lukewarm in which has been dissolved two cups of sugar, then add two dissolved Junket Tablets, stir quickly for a minute and pour into freezer can, let it stand ten or fifteen minutes before packing with ice and salt; freeze to a thick mush, then add juice and grated rind of six oranges and continue to freeze.
Raspberry Sherbet may be made in the same way by substituting for the juice and rind of oranges one quart of crushed and sweetened raspberries, and
Pineapple Sherbet by substituting two cups of grated and sweetened pineapple.
Custard Ice Cream
When cream is scarce many housekeepers substitute a mixture of eggs and milk. The following is a good standard recipe which can be varied by using different fruits and flavors the same as in any of the above combinations.
1 quart milk
4 eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla (more if desired)
2½ cups sugar
1 quart cream (or rich milk)
Scald milk, add sugar, then add the well-beaten eggs. Cook until thick, remove from fire and cool. Be careful not to cook too long or it will curdle. Then add the cream and vanilla and freeze.