| [CHAPTER I.] |
| PAGE |
| Embarkation at Havre—The Voyage—Arrival at the Island ofChiloe—Landing—The Gyr-Falcon—Punta Arena—The Island ofChiloe described—Climate and Cultivation—Cattle—The Bay—SanCarlos—The Governor's House—Poverty and Wretchedness of theInhabitants of the Town—Strange method of Ploughing—CoastingVessels—Smuggling—Zoology—Departure from Chiloe | [1] |
| [CHAPTER II.] |
| Valparaiso and the adjacent country—The Bay—Aspect of theTown—Lighthouses—Forts—Custom House—Exchange—Hotels andTaverns—War with the Peru-Bolivian Confederation—FirstExpedition—Preparations for the Second Expedition—Embarkationof the Troops—Close of the Port—July Festival in honor ofthe French Revolution—The Muele, or Mole—Police—Serenos,or Watchmen—Movable Prisons—Clubs—Trade ofValparaiso—Santiago—Zoology | [15] |
| [CHAPTER III.] |
| Juan Fernandez—Robinson Crusoe—Passage to Callao—SanLorenzo—Rise and fall of the coast—Mr. Darwin's opinionson this subject—Callao—The Fortress—Siege by theSpaniards—General Rodil—Siege by the Chilians—TheColocolo—Pirates—Zoology—Road to Lima | [26] |
| [CHAPTER IV.] |
| Lima—Situation and extent of the City—Streets,Houses, Churches and Convents—San Pedro—TheJesuits—Nunneries—Beatarios—Hospitals—San Andres—TheFoundling House—The Pantheon—The Palace—The PlazaMayor—Pizarro—The Cabildo—Fountains—Palace of theInquisition—The University—National Library—Museum ofNatural History and Antiquities—Academy of Design—TheMint—The Theatre—Circus for Cock-fighting—The Bridge—TheCity Wall—Santa Catalina—Barracks | [42] |
| [CHAPTER V.] |
| Population of Lima—Its diminution—Different races of theInhabitants—Their characteristics—Amusements—Education—The Womenof Lima—Their Costume—the Saya y Manto—Female domesticlife—Love of dress—Beatas—Indians—Slaves—Bosales—FreeCreoles—Negroes—Negresses—Black Creoles—Theirvarieties—Mestizos—Mulattoes—Pelanganas—Zambos—Chinos—Foreignersin Lima—Corruption of the Spanish language | [63] |
| [CHAPTER VI.] |
| Primary Schools—Colleges—The University—Monks—Saints—SantoToribio and Santa Rosa—Religious Processions—Raising the Host—TheNoche Buena—The Carnival—Paseos, or Public Promenades—Ice—Ridingand Driving—Horses—Their Equipments and Training—Mules—Lotteryin Lima—Cookery—Breakfasts, Dinners, &c.—Coffee-houses andRestaurants—Markets—The Plazo Firme del Acho—Bull Fights | [89] |
| [CHAPTER VII.] |
| Geographical Situation of Lima—Height above Sealevel—Temperature—Diseases—Statistical Tables of Births andDeaths—Earthquakes—The Valley of Lima—The River Rimac—Aqueducts,Trenches, &c.—Irrigation—Plantations—Cotton—Sugar—Variouskinds of Grain—Maize—Potatoes, and other tuberousroots—Pulse—Cabbage—Plants used for Seasoning—Clover—The Oliveand other Oil Trees—Fruits—Figs and Grapes—The Chirimoya—ThePalta—The Banana and other Fruits | [111] |
| [CHAPTER VIII.] |
| Robbers on the coast of Peru—The Bandit Leaders Leon and Rayo—TheCorps of Montoneros—Watering Places near Lima—Surco, Atte andLurin—Pacchacamac—Ruins of the Temple of the Sun—Difficulties ofTravelling on the Coast of Peru—Sea Passage to Huacho—IndianCanoes—Ichthyological Collections—An old Spaniard's recollectionsof Alexander Von Humboldt—The Padre Requena—Huacho—Plundering ofBurial Places—Huaura—Malaria—The Sugar Plantation atLuhmayo—Quipico—Ancient Peruvian Ruins—The Salinas, or SaltPits—Gritalobos—Chancay—The Piques—Mode of extractingthem—Valley of the Pasamayo—Extraordinary AtmosphericMirrors—Piedras Gordas—Palo Seco | [137] |
| [CHAPTER IX.] |
| The Coast southward of Lima—Chilca—Curious Cigar cases madethere—Yauyos—Pisco—Journey to Yea—A night on the SandPlains—Fatal Catastrophe in the year 1823—Vine Plantations atYea—Brandy and Wine—Don Domingo Elias—Vessels for transportingBrandy (Botijas and Odres)—Cruel mode of skinning Goats—NegroCarnival—Peculiar species of Guinea Pig—The Salamanqueja—CottonPlantations—Quebrada of Huaitara—Sangallan—Guano—Retrospect ofthe Peruvian Coast—Rivers—Medanos—Winds—Change of Seasons—TheGaruas—The Lomas—Mammalia—Birds—Amphibia | [160] |
| [CHAPTER X.] |
| Roads leading to the Sierra—Chaclacayo and Santa Iñes—Barometricalobservations—San Pedro Mama—The Rio Seco—Extraordinary GeologicalPhenomenon—Similar one described by Mr. Darwin—Surco—Diseasespeculiar to the Villages of Peru—The Verugas—Indian mode oftreating the disorder—The Bird-catching Spider—Horse-Shoeing—IndianTambos—San Juan de Matucanas—The Thorn-apple and the Tonga—TheTambo de Viso—Bridges—San Mateo—Passports—Acchahuari—Maladycalled the Veta—Its effects on horses—Singular tact and cautionof Mules—Antarangra and Mountain Passes—Curious partition ofWater—Piedra Parada—Yauli—Indian Smelting Furnaces—MineralSprings—Portuguese Mine owners—Saco—Oroya—HangingBridges—Huaros—Roads leading from Oroya | [179] |
| [CHAPTER XI.] |
| The Cordillera and the Andes—Signification of the terms—Altitudeof the Mountains and Passes—Lakes—Metals—Aspect of theCordillera—Shattered Rocks—Maladies caused by the diminishedAtmospheric Pressure—The Veta and the Surumpe—Mountain Storms—TheCondor—Its habits—Indian mode of Catching the Bird—The Puna orDespoblado—Climate—Currents of Warm Air—Vegetation—TuberousPlant called the Maca—Animals of the Puna—The Llama, the Alpaco,the Huanacu and the Vicuña—The Chacu and the Bolas—HouseholdUtensils of the Ancient Peruvians—The Viscacha and theChinchilla—Puna Birds and Amphibia—Cattle and Pasture—IndianFarms—Shepherds' Huts—Ancient Peruvian Roads andBuildings—Treasure concealed by the Indians in the Puna | [203] |
| [CHAPTER XII.] |
| Cerro de Pasco—First discovery of the Mines—Careless mode ofworking them—Mine Owners and Mine Laborers—Amalgamating andRefining—Produce of the Mines—Life in Cerro de Pasco—DifferentClasses of the Population—Gaming and Drunkenness—Extravaganceand Improvidence of the Indian Mine Laborers—The Cerro de SanFernando—Other Important Mining Districts in Peru—The Salcedo MineCastrovireyna—Vast Productiveness of the Silver Mines of Peru—RichMines secretly known to the Indians—Roads leading from Cerro dePasco—The Laguna of Chinchaycocha—Battle of Junin—IndianRobbers—A Day and a Night in the Puna Wilds | [229] |
| [CHAPTER XIII.] |
| The Sierra—Its Climate and Productions—Inhabitants—Trade—Eggscirculated as money—Mestizos in the Sierra—Their Idlenessand Love of Gaming and Betting—Agriculture—The Quinua Plant,a substitute for Potatoes—Growth of Vegetables and Fruitsin the Sierra—Rural Festivals at the Seasons of Sowing andReaping—Skill of the Indians in various Handicrafts—Excess ofBrandy-Drinking—Chicha—Disgusting mode of making it—Festivals ofSaints—Dances and Bull-Fights—Celebration of Christmas-Day,New-Year's Day, Palm Sunday, and Good Friday—Contributions leviedon the Indians—Tardy and Irregular Transmission of Letters—Tradein Mules—General Style of Building in the Towns and Villages ofthe Sierra—Ceja de la Montaña | [253] |
| [CHAPTER XIV.] |
| Road to the Primeval Forests—Barbacoas, or Indian SuspensionBridges—Vegetation—Hollow Passes—Zoology—the MontañaPlantations—Inhabitants—Trade in Peruvian Bark—WanderingIndians—Wild Indians or Indios Braves—Languages,Manners, and Customs of the Indios Bravos—Dress—WarlikeWeapons and Hunting Arms—Dwellings—Religion—Physicalformation of the Wild Indian Tribes—Animals of the AboriginalForests—Mammalia—Hunting the Ounce—Birds—Amphibia—PoisonousSerpents—Huaco—Insects—Plants | [271] |
| [CHAPTER XV.] |
| Montaña of San Carlos de Vitoc—Villages—Hacienda ofMaraynioc—the Coca Plant—Mode of Cultivating and Gatheringit—Mastication of Coca—Evil Consequences of its excessiveUse—Its Nutritious Qualities—Indian Superstitions connectedwith the Coca Plant—Suggestions for its Introduction inthe European Navies—Fabulous animal called the Carbunculo—TheChunchos—Missions to Cerro de la Sal—Juan Santos Atahuallpa—TheFranciscan Monks—Depopulation of Vitoc | [309] |
| [CHAPTER XVI.] |
| Oppressions exercised by the Spaniards upon the Peruvian Indians—TheRepartimiento and the Mita—Indian Insurrections—Tupac Amaru—HisCapture and Execution—War of Independence—Character of the PeruvianIndians—Music—Dress—Superstitions—Longevity—Diminished Populationof Peru—Languages spoken by the Aboriginal Inhabitants—Specimen ofQuichua Poetry—The Yaravies—The Quipu—Water Conduits—AncientBuildings—Fortresses—Idols—Domestic Utensils—Ancient PeruvianGraves—Mode of Burying the Dead—Mummies | [329] |