| PAGE |
| CHAPTER I. |
| On the Road to Kabul | [1] |
| The start and the wherefore. Unsettled condition of Afghanistan. Departure from Peshawur. Jumrûd Fort and the Watch-tower. The Afghan guard. The Khyber defile. Eccentricities of Rosinante. Lunch at Ali Musjid. Pathan villages. Pathans, their appearance and customs. Arrival at Landi-Kotal Serai. The Shenwari country. Caravan of Traders. Dakka. Dangers of the Kabul River. Mussaks. Camp at Bassawal. Chahardeh. Mountain road by the river. Distant view of Jelalabad. |
| CHAPTER II. |
| Arrival at Kabul | [16] |
| Arrival at Jelalabad, Reception by the Governor. The Palace. The Town. The Plain. Quarters in the Guest Pavilion. The friendly Khan. Tattang and the gunpowder factory. The Royal gardens at Nimla. The Suffêd Koh Mountains. Arboreal distribution in Afghanistan. Gundamuk. Assassination of Cavagnari: details of the plot. The “Red bridge.” Commencement of mountainous ascent to Kabul. Jigdilik. Massacre of British in 1837. Former dangers of the valley of Katasang. Enterprising peasants. Tomb in the Sei Baba valley. Burial customs. The Lataband Pass and the Iron Cage. Distant view of Kabul. The Amîr’s projected road at Lataband. The approach to Kabul. The Lahore Gate. |
| CHAPTER III. |
| The Reception | [31] |
| Position of Kabul. Its defences. Amîr’s opinion of the Founders of his Capital. Entry into Kabul. Aspect of the Townsmen. Arrival at the Arm Foundry. Visit of the Afghan Official. His appearance. Absence of Amîr. To be received at the Palace by the Princes. The approach to the Palace. The Amîr’s Pavilion. Page boys. The Princes Habibullah and Nasrullah. The Reception. Internal arrangement of Pavilion. The earthquake. Abrupt ending of the Reception. Other buildings in the Palace. |
| CHAPTER IV. |
| Afghan Hospitals | [41] |
| The first attendance at an Afghan Hospital. Its arrangement. The drugs and instruments. The Patients. An Interpreter presents himself. Dispensers. Marvellous recovery of the Page boy. Its effect. Buildings near the Hospital. The Durbar Hall and Guest House. The Sherpûr Military Hospital. Lord Roberts and the Sherpûr Cantonment. Adventure with an Afghan soldier. Arrangement of the In-patient Hospital. Diet of Patients. Attendance of Hakims. Storekeepers and their ways. |
| CHAPTER V. |
| Afghan Dwellings | [53] |
| The Residential streets of Kabul. Their appearance and arrangement. The Police. Criminal Punishments. The Houses. Their internal arrangement. Precautions to ensure privacy. Manner of building for the rich and for the poor. Effect of rain and earthquake. The warming of houses in winter. Afternoon teas. Bath-houses. The Afghan bath. |
| CHAPTER VI. |
| The Kabul Bazaars | [68] |
| The unpopular Governor and his toothache. The meeting in the Erg Bazaar. Appearance of the Kabul Bazaars. The shops and their contents. Boots, shoes, and cobblers. Copper workers. The tinning of cooking pots. Impromptu tobacco pipes. Tobacco smoking by the Royal Family. Silk and cotton. “Bargaining.” “Restaurants.” Tea drinking. Confectioners. The baker’s oven. Flour mills. The butcher’s shop. Postîns and their cost. Furs. Ironmongers. Arms. “The German sword.” The Afghan tulwar. Rifles and pistols. Bows. Silver and gold-smiths. Caps and turbans. Embroidery. Grocers: tea, sugar, soap, and candles, and where they come from. Fruiterers. Tailors. “The Railway Guard.” Costume of the Kabuli townsmen. Personal effect of the Amîr on costume. Drug shops. |
| CHAPTER VII. |
| Ethics | [90] |
| Sir S. Pyne’s adventure in the Kabul river. The Tower on the bank. Minars of Alexander. Mahomedan Mosques. The cry of the Priest. Prayers and Religious Processions. Afghan conception of God. Religious and non-Religious Afghans. The schoolhouse and the lessons. Priests. Sêyids: descendants of the Prophet. The lunatic Sêyid. The Hafiz who was fined. The Dipsomaniac. The Chief of the Police and his ways. Danger of prescribing for a prisoner. “The Thing that walks at night.” The end of the Naib. Death-bed services. The Governor of Bamian. Courtship and weddings among the Afghans. The formal proposal by a Superior Officer. The wedding of Prince Habibullah. Priests as healers of the sick. The “Evil Eye.” Ghosts. |
| CHAPTER VIII. |
| Afghan Surgeons and Physicians | [115] |
| Accidents from machinery in motion. The “dressers of wounds” in Afghanistan. Their methods of treating wounds, and the results of the same. The “Barber surgeons.” Tooth drawing and bleeding. The Hindustani “Doctors.” “Eye Doctors” and their work. The Hakims or Native Physicians. Treatment of disease by the People. Aspect in which European Physicians are viewed by the different Classes. |
| CHAPTER IX. |
| The March to Turkestan | [129] |
| Jealousy and its results. Sport among the Afghans. The “Sportsmen” among the mountains. Order to join the Amîr in Turkestan. Preparations. Camp at Chiltan. The Banquet. The Nautch dance. Among the Hindu Kush mountains. The camp in the Hazara country. Courtesy of Jan Mahomed. Mountain paths. Iron spring. The underground river and the Amîr’s offer. The Red mountain and the Deserted City. Camp in the Valley of Bamian. The English prisoners of 1837. The Petrified Dragon. The Colossal Idols: The Cave-dwellers. The Pass of the “Tooth-breaker.” Ghuzniguk. Story of Ishak’s rebellion. Tash Kurghán: the Shave and the Hospital. “The Valley of Death.” The Plains of Turkestan and the heat thereof. The Mirage. Arrival at Mazar. The House. Story of the death of Amîr Shere Ali. |
| CHAPTER X. |
| The Amîr | [157] |
| To be “presented.” The Palace Gardens. The Amîr. Questions asked by His Highness. Punishment of rebellious in Afghanistan. Asiatic motives from European standpoint. Amîr’s arrangement for my safety. Bazaars and houses of Mazar. The Suburbs. The Military Hospital. The Patients. Afghan appreciation of European medical treatment. The two chief Hakims. Hindustani intrigue. Amîr’s sense of Justice. The Trial. A Courtier’s influence. The guard of the Amîr’s table. |
| CHAPTER XI. |
| Life in Turkestan | [176] |
| General Nassir Khan. The Belgian’s Request. Escape of Allah Nûr: his Capture. The Amîr’s Decision. The Turkestan Commander-in-Chief. Operation on Allah Nûr. The Armenian’s Comments. Illness of Hadji Jan Mahomed. Excursion to Takh-ta-Pûl. Fortune-telling among the Afghans. The Policeman-cook and the Lunch. Balkh. The Mosque at Mazar-i-Sherif and its Miracles. Called to His Highness. The Cool-air Pavilion. Illness of the British Agent: the Armenian’s advice: the Answer from the Amîr. Brigadier Hadji-Gul Khan. Afghan Endurance of Suffering. Euclid and Cards. |
| CHAPTER XII. |
| The Inhabitants of Afghanistan | [193] |
| Slaves in Kabul: prisoners of war and others. The frequent rebellions. The different nationalities in Afghanistan. Origin of the Afghan race. The Turk Sabaktakin. Mahmûd of Ghuzni. Buddhism displaced by Mahomedanism. Border Afghans. Duranis. Ghilzais. Founding of a Dynasty of Afghan Kings. Ahmad Shah. Timûr Shah. The Sons of Timûr. Zaman Shah. The Afghan “Warwick.” Execution of Paînda. Rebellion of the Shah’s brother. Mahmûd Shah. Another brother rebels. Shujah-ul-Mulk crowned: deposed by the Barakzai chief. Exile of Shujah. The Koh-i-nûr. The Puppet-king and the Barakzai Wazir. Murder of the Wazir. The Wazir’s brother becomes Amîr. The first Afghan War. Rule of Dôst Mahomed: A Standing Army established. Accession of Shere Ali. Amîr Afzal Khan. Abdurrahman. The Ghilzais. Border Pathans, Afridis, Shinwaris. The Hazaras. Turkomans, Usbàks. The Christian Church. |
| CHAPTER XIII. |
| The Birth of Prince Mahomed Omer | [210] |
| Hazara slaves, Kaffir slaves, and others. Court Pages. High positions occupied by slaves. Price of slaves. Wife and children of Hazara Chief in slavery. Illness of the Hostage of an Afghan Chief. Abdur Rashid down with fever. Own illness and the aches thereof. The British Agent’s postal arrangements. Postage in Afghanistan. Power of annoying possessed by Interpreters. The Chief Bugler. The Page boy and the Sirdar. The Page boy and the Amîr. The uproar on September 15th. Congratulations to the Sultana. The crowd outside the Harem Serai. The Sultana’s reply. Matter of succession complicated. Surgical operations. The Priest with a blemish: his request. The Amîr’s reply. The operation. The Mirza’s comments. |
| CHAPTER XIV. |
| The Rearing of the Infant Prince | [225] |
| The Amîr’s autograph letter. Medical consultation concerning the rearing of the Prince. Conflicting customs of the Orient and the Occident. Conservative nurses. The “Hakim fair to see”: the patient. Lessons in Persian and in English. Portrait painting. Dietary difficulties. Gracious acts of His Highness. Amîr’s letter of condolence. The Royal visit by deputy. Congratulations of the British Agent. Accident to the favourite Page. The khirgar. Attempt upon the life of the Amîr. An earthquake. Afghan appreciation of pictures and jokes. Generosity of the Amîr. The first winter Durbar. The Royal costume. The Amîr’s question: the Parable. The dining-room. The guests. The breakfast. The press of State business. Amîr’s thoughtful kindness. Visit to the Commander-in-Chief. The ride to the Hospital. Adventure with the “fool horse.” Hospital patients in winter. “Two much and three much.” |
| CHAPTER XV. |
| The Amîr’s Conversation | [251] |
| Sent for to the Palace. Fragility of Europeans. The Amîr’s postîn. The Bedchamber. The King’s evening costume. The guests. The Amîr’s illness. School in the Durbar-room. The Amîr’s conversation. Khans: the water supply of London: plurality of wives. The Amîr is bled. His Highness a physician in Turkestan. Drawing. The Amîr’s portrait. Amîr’s choice of costume. The Shah of Persia. Portraits of the Shah. The rupee and the Queen’s portrait. Cigar holders. Concerning Afghan hillmen. Dinner. The Amîr’s domestic habits. Amîr’s consideration for subordinates. European customs. The new Kabul. Native drugs. Soup and beef tea. The paper trick. The Kafir Page. European correspondence. Vaccination of Prince Mahomed Omer. Afghan women. The Prince’s house. The Prince. The operation. Abdul Wahid. Afghan desire for vaccination. The Armenian’s useful sagacity. An Afghan superstition. The Agent’s secretary. His comments upon Bret Harte: the meaning of “By Jove.” European “divorce” from an Oriental point of view. |
| CHAPTER XVI. |
| The First Sitting | [272] |
| Morning prayers. Early tea. Breakfast. The first sitting for the Amîr’s portrait. The Courtier’s criticism. The Amîr’s rebuke. The Deputation. Conversation with the Amîr: the climate of England and Australia. Awe of the Courtiers. The favourite Page boy’s privileges. Serious incident at a sitting. The Captain’s toothache. Present of a rifle from the Amîr. The shooting expedition and its dangers. Courage of the “Burma policeman.” The eccentric rider. The singing Afghan. The scenery of Mazar. Salutations in the market place. The meeting with Prince Amin Ullah. |
| CHAPTER XVII. |
| The Amîr As an Art Critic | [282] |
| The “villain” cook. Mental effect of a cold in the head. Portrait of the infant Prince. The Amîr’s reflection in the window. The Amîr as an Art Critic. Salaams to the King’s Portrait. The Amîr’s toilet. A shooting expedition. The mud of Mazar. The Armenian’s comments. The sample case of cigars. The Amîr’s handwriting. A sunset. |
| CHAPTER XVIII. |
| The Levee on New Year’s Day | [293] |
| The Mahomedan New Year’s Eve. Presents. The “Izzat” medal. Coinage of Afghanistan: Rupees: Pice: the “Tilla.” Levee on New Year’s Day. The guests: Maleks and Governors: the British Agent. Presents to the Amîr. Chess as played in Afghanistan. The Amîr as a Pathologist. The steam-engine pony. Sight-seeing with the Princes. The Temple of Mazar. The booths at the entrance to the Temple. The Park of Mazar. Native music. The Afghan dance. Kabuli wrestling. |
| CHAPTER XIX. |
| The Young Princes | [308] |
| Infant Prince as the Sultana’s Deputy. Reception by the Prince: the pavilion: the guard: costume. Visit to Prince Hafiz Ullah. Her Majesty’s photograph. Lunch with the Prince in the Palace Gardens. The “Royal manner.” The mother of Prince Hafiz Ullah. A drawing of the Prince. Adventure with the fat General. The power of the Amîr’s name. The Amîr as a Consulting Surgeon. The Fast of Ramazàn. Overdose of tobacco. The Evening Durbar. Danger if a King fasts; “Marazàn.” The Durbar. The surgical operation: attempted vendetta. Flowers in the Palace. The Usbàk’s artistic design. The Amîr’s diary. The present of sugar. Official notice of return march to Kabul. The “Cracker.” End of Ramazàn. The guard of Amazons. |
| CHAPTER XX. |
| The Return Journey to Kabul | [324] |
| Loading up. The first camp. Tropical heat: the whirlwind. The Amîr’s khirgar. Scanty rations. Midnight marching. Dangers in the pitchy darkness. Impure water. Daybreak. The second camp. Lost on the plains. Naibabad: the rain. The march to Tash Kurghan. The Khulm Pass. Sight seeing from the house tops. The Durbar. Punishment of the unjust townsfolk. The Amîr’s health. The eclipse of the sun. On the march again: the dust: jammed in the valleys. Ghuzniguk. An Afghan “Good Samaritan.” A poisonous sting: the Amîr’s remedy. A block on the road. The tiger valley. Haibuk. Adventure with the elephant: the somnolent Afghan. The aqueduct. Discomforts of a camp in an orchard. |
| CHAPTER XXI. |
| The Arrival in Kabul | [345] |
| The Durbar in Haibuk. “Rustom’s throne.” The ancient caves. The wounded Governor: Kabul dentistry. The erring Hakim. Courtesy of His Highness. “Microbes.” Elephant riding. A grateful peasant. Dangerous passes. The Durbar at Shush-Bûrjah: the hot river. Accidents on the “Tooth-breaker.” Akrab-Abad. The camp of the camels. A pet dog. Evil results of “temper.” A cheap banquet. Coal. Arrival of Englishmen. Durbar at Kalai Kasi. The Amîr again as a physician. Approach to Kabul. Reception by the Princes. The “High garden.” The Pavilion. Malek the Page. Arrival of the Amîr. The Reception. Arrival at the Workshops. Hospitality. |
| CHAPTER XXII. |
| Life in Kabul | [361] |
| The Îd festival: salaam to the Amîr: the educating of Afghans. Products of the Workshops. Royal lunch at Endekki: the Invitation: the Brougham: the Palace: the Drawing-room: the Piano. Evening illumination of gardens: dinner. The unreliable Interpreter. A night at the Palace. Commencement of intrigue. Gifts to the Amîr. The rebuke to Prince Nasrullah. Noah’s Ark: the nodding images. Illness again: the Amîr’s advice. An afternoon call. Illness of the Amîr: the visit: His Highness’s question: the Amîr’s good breeding. An earthquake. Report on Kabul brandy: Mr. Pyne’s opinion: the Amîr’s perplexity. The Hindu’s objection. The mysterious midnight noise: the solution of the mystery. Mumps. The wedding of Prince Nasrullah: invitation from the Sultana: the Fête: a band of pipers. The Prince and his bride. Overwork at the Hospital. One of the troubles of a Ruler. Scenery near Bala Hissar. The Amîr duck shooting. The sick chief: his imprudence: his amusements. The will of the clan. |
| CHAPTER XXIII. |
| The Amîr’s Illness | [381] |
| Sent for to the Palace. The Amîr’s health: the Liniment. Questions in chemistry. Early breakfast at the Palace. A courtier as a waiter. Called to Prince Aziz Ullah: his illness. Illness of the Deputy Commander-in-Chief. A visit to Prince Mahomed Omer. The Queen’s brougham: her Reverend Uncle. The Jelalabad official and his promise. Dinner with Mr. Pyne. Death of Prince Aziz Ullah. The Chief ill again. The weather. The silence at the Palace. December 2nd: the Call. The town at night. Illness of the Amîr: former treatment. The Amîr’s prayer. Bulletins. Called to the Sultana. The Harem. The Sultana’s illness. A poisonous dose. Improvement of Amîr: and of Sultana. The innocent plot. A present. Musicians. Amîr and Sultana as patients. Annoyances by an interpreter. A shock. The Sultana’s letter. News from Malek, the Page. In the Harem: the Armenian’s comments. Quarters in the Prince’s quadrangle. The Amîr’s relapse. |
| CHAPTER XXIV. |
| Royal Patients | [399] |
| The Hindustani Interpreter. The Amîr as a host: the Sultana as hostess. The Amîr’s photograph. The Sultana’s name. Sirdar, the girl-boy. The sleeping draught. The tea cup and the thermometer. The Christmas Dinner: the guests: the menu: music. The Amîr’s fainting attack: the remedy: effect on the physician: the substituted remedy: further effect on the physician; the Amîr’s prescription. The Amîr’s alarming nervous symptoms. Hospital cases. Duties of the Princes Habibullah and Nasrullah. |
| CHAPTER XXV. |
| A Kabul Winter | [410] |
| Hindustani intrigue: information from the British Agent: offer of assistance: measures for protection: further intrigue. The “Royal manner.” The two factions: Habibullah: Mahomed Omer. The question of succession. Return to the City House and English Society: the cold of Kabul. The naked beggar boy. The old Kabul bridge. The question of “bleeding.” Disbanding of a Shiah regiment. Amîr’s advice to his sons. Improvement in Amîr’s health. The Hindustani again: Sabbath. The Afghan noble as workshop superintendent. New Year sports. The grand stand: the crowd: refreshments. Horse-racing: collisions. Tent pegging and its dangers. Lemon slicing. Displays of horsemanship. Amîr’s absence from the sports. The Naû Rôz levee. Salaam to the Sultana. Amîr in the Salaam Khana: reception of the Maleks and merchants: presents. The Princes standing before the Amîr. Reception of the English engineers: the “White-beard:” his age: the Amîr’s surprise. |
| CHAPTER XXVI. |
| A Kabul Spring | [426] |
| Spring clothing: a grateful Afghan. Poison bowls. A haunted house: the skeleton in the garden. Increase of patients. Called to the Palace: Amîr’s costume. Troubles of a Ruler: Secretary in disgrace. Amîr’s plans for the future. Geologists in the service. Occidental v. Oriental. Mercantile commissions. The Armenian’s leave. The locusts. Prince Mahomed Omer and his Lâla. The Palace gardens. A military Durbar. Amîr’s thoughtfulness. A portrait. Amîr’s opinion of his people: education of his soldiers. The arrest: murder of the prisoner: the Amîr’s decision. Ramazàn. Rising of the river. The Íd Festival. The Physician’s plans: the Amîr’s comment. Prince Habibullah’s portrait: Prince Nasrullah’s portrait: his remark. |
| CHAPTER XXVII. |
| On Leave | [442] |
| The last Durbar: the Amîr’s remark: a wedding present. The journey down. An awful day: “difficult hot.” Exhaustion. The work of the locusts. The breeding establishment: a study in colour. An illegal march. Simla. The Despatch. Dinners and dances. The study of character. The Armenian in London. Return to India. |
| CHAPTER XXVIII. |
| The Welcome to Kabul | [454] |
| Pathan rifle thieves. Dacca. The midnight alarm: the melée. “Bally rascals.” The next morning. The terror of the Amîr’s name. Running postmen. Kabul post. Armenian’s opinion of London. Changes in the English “staff.” Visitors: letters. Lady doctor’s application. Salaam to the Amîr. His Highness’s welcome. The military Durbar. Presents. The new British Agent. Visit to the Sultana. Salaam to Prince Habibullah. Another visit to the Amîr: his appreciation of scenic effect. His answer to the lady doctor’s application. |
| CHAPTER XXIX. |
| The Cholera | [465] |
| Ramazàn. The outbreak of Cholera. Precautions. Notices in the bazaars. Rapid spread. European medicine. The overwhelming dread. Processions to the Mosque. Oriental fatalism. The shadow of death. Removal of the Court to the mountains. Closure of the workshops. The Armenian as an Inspector. The Prince’s chamberlain. Death of the Dabier-ul-Mulk. The mortality. An incident. Afghan appreciation of British motives. Arrival of an Englishman with thoroughbred horses. Dying out of the Cholera. Visit to Paghman. The soldiers in chains. Anger of the Amîr. An earthquake: the Amîr as a scientist. Illness of the “Keeper of the Carpets.” Arrival of Mr. Pyne and other Englishmen. Another visit to the Amîr. His Highness’s description of a Royal illness. Dinner from the Palace: the sealed dishes. |
| CHAPTER XXX. |
| Another Winter | [479] |
| A political Durbar: tact of the Amîr: a friendly soldier. The banquet. Return of the Cholera. Essay on “Precautionary measures.” Health of the English in Kabul. Report to the Amîr: His Highness’s kindness. Visit to Prince Nasrullah: a “worm-eaten” tooth: the operation. Erring Englishmen: the Amîr’s remedy. Amîr as a chess-player. The far-sighted Armenian: winter quarters. End of the Cholera. Invasion of Small-pox and Erysipelas. To Paghman: Portrait of Prince Mahomed Omer: present from the Sultana. The sketch of the Prince: resemblance to the Amîr: his costume: arrangement of the group. Present of a slave boy. A lesson in courtesy to the Page boys. Native dinners. Visit of Mr. Pyne: the sandali. Completion of the portrait. The Amîr’s remark. Sultana’s gift to the Paghmanis: Afghan mode of slaughtering. Ride to Kabul: the mud. The Afghan Agent: the “Gnat.” Sent for to the Palace: a Landscape Commission: postponement of leave; disappointment: the Amîr’s remedy. Christmas dinner at the shops. The “Health of Her Majesty.” |
| CHAPTER XXXI. |
| Adieu to Kabul | [497] |
| Afghan artists. Presentation of the little Prince’s portrait. His quarters at the Palace. The Prince as a host. A walk in the Kabul Bazaars. Before the Amîr: landscapes. A fresh commission. The “Gnat’s” interpreting. The Amîr’s answer. Art pupils before the Amîr. The Amîr’s kindly remark. The miner’s dog: shattered nerves and surgical operations. The worries of Kabul life. To Paghman: the glens: the spy. Sketches. Before the Amîr. A fresh Commission. Adieux. |
| CHAPTER XXXII. |
| The Argument | [512] |
| Afghan court life from an English standpoint. The Afghan Courtier. Untrustworthiness. Intrigue. Question of “cause” or “consequence.” Possibility of raising the moral plane. The Amîr’s obvious opinion. His Highness’s great work. Certain evils. Former condition of the middle classes: present condition: opening of the eyes: comparison with similar class in India. Progress in Afghanistan. Civilizing effect of the Amîr. Dôst Mahomed’s rule: comparison with Abdurrahman. Altered condition of country. The Amîr’s civilizing measures: drastic measures. Peaceful measures: education: the teaching of handicrafts: of art: the spreading of knowledge: prizes for good or original work. Personal fascination of the Amîr. |