| [CHAPTER I.] |
| | Page |
| Which, being non-essential, treats partly of Spain,but principally of the Writer | [1-23] |
| [CHAPTER II.] |
| The Old-Fashioned Invocation—"Them 'ere SpanishKings!"—Candidates for a Throne—En Voyage—Bordeauxand the Back-ache—An UnmannerlyAlsatian—The Patriot gets a Roland for his Oliver—SmallChange for a Hot Bath—Plan for UniversalCoinage—Daughters of Israel—The Jews Diagnosed—Acrossthe Border—The Writer is Saluted "Caballero"—BugabooSanta Cruz—Over a Brasero | [24-42] |
| [CHAPTER III.] |
| A Make-Believe Spain—The Mountain Convoy—ATough Road to Travel—Spanish Superiority inBlasphemy—Short Essay on Oaths—The BasquePeasants—Carlism under a Cloak—How Guerilla-Fightingis Conducted—A Hyperborean Landscape—AMysterious Grandee—An Adventurous Frenchman—TheShebeen on the Summit—Armed Alsasua—BaseCoin | [43-60] |
| [CHAPTER IV.] |
| Madrid—The Fonda and its Porter—The Puerta delSol—Postal Irregularities—Tribute to the Madrileños—TheBarber's Pronunciamiento—Anecdotes of KingAmadeus—Checkmating the Grand Dames—QueenIsabella—The Embarrassed Mr. Layard of Nineveh—TheGreat Powers Hesitate—America Goes Ahead—GeneralSickles—Mahomet and the Mountain—Republicanismamong the Troops—A Peculiar PennsylvanianDentist—Castelar under Torture—TheWriter meets one of his Sept—Politicians by Trade—Honouramong Insurgents—Alonso the Reckless | [61-91] |
| [CHAPTER V.] |
| A Late Capital—The Gambling Mania—A FrenchRendezvous—The Duke de Fitzpepper—The Moralityof Passing Bad Money—Spanish Compliments—Menin Pickle—A Licentious Ballet—Federal Manners—Prim'sArtifice—Nouvilas Goes North—A CarlistProclamation—Don Alfonso—Midnight Oil—Castelar'sCircular | [92-112] |
| [CHAPTER VI.] |
| Warning to Ladies—The Hotel Parliament—An Anglo-SpanishMentor—The Evil Genii of the Monarchy—TheCurses of Spain—Government and ReligionAffairs of Climate—The Carlists, Norwegians, andEnglish, all Republicans!—Notions on Heredity—TheFive Spanish Parties—The Army the Lever ofPower—The Student-Cæsar—Order versus Republic—TheChained Colours—Dorregaray's Appeal to theSoldiers—Influence of the Church—Wanted: aBenevolent Despot | [113-131] |
| [CHAPTER VII.] |
| The Carnival—About Kissing Feet—Mummers andMasquers—The Paseo de Recoletos—The Writer istaken for Cluseret—Incongruity in Costume—ShroveTuesday—Panic on the Prado—A Fancy Ball—The"Entierro de la Sardina"—Lenten Amusements—ASpanish Mystery—"Pasion y Muerte de Jesus"—Ofthe Stage Stagey—Critical Remarks | [132-160] |
| [CHAPTER VIII.] |
| Another Chat with Mentor—A Startling Solution ofthe Spanish Question—The Penalties of Popularity—TheRepublic another Saturn—The New CivilGovernor—The Government Bill—Outside the Palaceof the Congress—Providential Rain—Wild Rumours—FederalThreats—The Five Civil Guards—Insidethe Chamber—The Great Debate—The Two Reports—Compromise—MinorSpeechmakers—A PickwickianContention—The Division—Victory for theMinistry—The Five Civil Guards Trot to Stables | [161-182] |
| [CHAPTER IX.] |
| The Inventions of Don Fulano de Tal—Stopping aTrain—"A Ver Fine Blaggar"—The Legend of SantaCruz—Dodging a Warrant—Outlawed—Chased byGendarmes—A Jack Sheppard Escape—The Curabecomes Cabecilla—Sleeping with an Eye Open—Exploitsand Atrocities—Dilettante Carlists inLondon—The Combat of Monreal—Ibarreta's Relics—ATale for the Marines—The Carlists Looking-up | [183-200] |
| [CHAPTER X.] |
| Barbarism of Tauromachy—A Surreptitious Ticket—TheNovillos—Islington not Madrid—Apology forCock-Fighting—Maudlin Humanity—The Espada aPopular Idol—In the Bull-Ring—A Precious "Ster-oh"—TheTrumpets Speak—The Procession—Play ofthe Quadrille—The Defiance—"Bravo, Cucharra!"—"Bravo,Toro!"—The Blemish of the Sport—AnIndignant English Lassie | [201-224] |
| [CHAPTER XI.] |
| The Shamrock of Erin and Olive of Spain—Hispano-HibernianRegiments—The Spanish Soldier—AnUnpopular Hidalgo—Flaw in the Harness—TheOrganization of the Army—The Guardia Civil—TheCavalry, Engineers, and Infantry—General Cordova—TheDisorganization of the Army—Mutiny inPampeluna—Officers Out of Work—Turbulent Barcelona—IrresoluteContreras—Pistolet DischargesHimself—The Madrid Garrison | [225-248] |
| [CHAPTER XII.] |
| Luring the Reader into a Stony Desert—A Duel on theCarpet—Disappointment of the Special Correspondents—ThePeople Amuses Itself—How the BallotWorks—A Historic Sitting of the Congress—Castelar'sGreat Oration—The Glory of Spain—AboutNegro Manumission—Distrust of "Uncle Sam"—Returnof Figueras—The Permanent Committee—ALove-Feast of Politicians—The Writer OrdersWings | [249-265] |
| [CHAPTER XIII.] |
| The Writer Turns Churlish and Quits Madrid—Sleepunder Difficulties—A Bad Dream—Santa Cruz again—OffSt. Helena!—Dissertation on Stomach Matters—AHint to British Railway Directors—"Odds, Hiltsand Blades"—A Delicate Little Gentleman is Curious—The"Tierra Deleitosa"—That Butcher again | [266-281] |
| [CHAPTER XIV.] |
| Delectable Seville—Don Juan Scapegrace—The Womenin Black—In the Triana Suburb—The City of theSeven Sleepers—Guide-Book Boredom—Romanceand Reality—The Prosaic Manchester Man—KingFerdinand Puzzling the Judges—Mortification byProxy—Some Notable Treasures—Papers and Politics—ThePorcelain Factory—"The Lazy Andalusiennes"—AboutCigars—The Gipsy Dance | [282-311] |