JOHN AUGUSTUS O'SHEA,

AUTHOR OF
"LEAVES FROM THE LIFE OF A SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT,"
"AN IRON-BOUND CITY," ETC.

"Oh, lovely Spain! renowned, romantic land!"
Childe Harold.

IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.

LONDON:
WARD AND DOWNEY,
12, YORK STREET, COVENT GARDEN, W.C.
1887.
[All Rights Reserved.]

CONTENTS OF VOL. II.

[CHAPTER I.]
Page
A Tidy City—A Sacred Corpse—Remarkable Featuresof Puerto—A Calesa—Lady Blanche's Castle—ATypical English Engineer—British Enterprise—"Successto the Cadiz Waterworks!"—Visit to aBodega—Wine and Women—The Coming Man—AStrike[1-18]
[CHAPTER II.]
The Charms of Cadiz—Seville-by-the-Sea—Cervantes—Daughtersof Eve—The Ladies who Prayed andthe Women who Didn't—Fasting Monks—Notice toQuit on the Nuns—The Rival Processions—Guttinga Church—A Disorganized Garrison—Taking it Easy—TheMysterious "Mr. Crabapple"—The SteamerMurillo—An Unsentimental Navvy—BandagedJustice—Tricky Ship-Owning—Painting BlackWhite[19-41]
[CHAPTER III.]
Expansion of Carlism—A Pseudo-Democracy—HistoricLand and Water Marks—An Impudent Stowaway—SpanishRespect for Providence—A FatalSignal—Playing with Fire—Across the Bay—Farewellto Andalusia—British Spain[42-50]
[CHAPTER IV.]
Gabriel Tar—A Hard Nut to Crack—In the Cemetery—AnOld Tipperary Soldier—Marks of the BroadArrow—The "Scorpions"—The Jaunting-Cars—Amusementson the Rock—Mrs. Damages' Complaint—TheBay, the Alameda, and Tarifa—Howto Learn Spanish—Types of the British Officer—TheWily Ben Solomon—A Word for the Subaltern—SunsetGun—The Sameness of Sutlersville[51-75]
[CHAPTER V.]
From Pillar to Pillar—Historic Souvenirs—Off toAfrica—The Sweetly Pretty Albert—Gibraltar byMoonlight—The Chain-Gang—Across the Strait—ADifficult Landing—Albert is Hurt—"Fat Mahomet"—TheCalendar of the Centuries Put Back—Tangier:the People, the Streets, the Bazaar—Our Hotel—AColoured Gentleman—Seeing the Sights—LocalMemoranda—Jewish Disabilities—Peep at a PhotographicAlbum—The Writer's Notions on HaremLife[76-102]
[CHAPTER VI.]
A Pattern Despotism—Some Moorish Peculiarities—AHell upon Earth—Fighting for Bread—An Air-Bath—Surprisesof Tangier—On Slavery—TheWriter's Idea of a Moorish Squire—The Ladder ofKnowledge—Gulping Forbidden Liquor—Divisionof Time—Singular Customs—The Shereef of Wazan—TheChristian who Captivated the Moor—TheInterview—Moslem Patronage of Spain—A Slap forEngland—A Vision of Beauty—An English Desdemona:Her Plaint—One for the Newspaper Men—TheLadies' Battle—Farewell—The English Lady'sMaid—Albert is Indisposed—The Writer Sums upon Morocco[103-135]
[CHAPTER VII.]
Back to Gibraltar—The Parting with Albert—TheTongue of Scandal—Voyage to Malaga—"No Police,no Anything"—Federalism Triumphant—Madrid inStatu Quo—Orense—Progress of the Royalists—Onthe Road Home—In the Insurgent Country—Stoppedby the Carlists—An Angry Passenger isSilenced[136-151]
[CHAPTER VIII.]
On the Wing—Ordered to the Carlist Headquarters—AnotherPetit Paris—Carlists from Cork—HowLeader was Wounded—Beating-up for an Anglo-IrishLegion—Pontifical Zouaves—A Bad Lot—Odditiesof Carlism—Santa Cruz Again—Runninga Cargo—On Board a Carlist Privateer—A Descendantof Kings—"Oh, for an Armstrong Twenty-FourPounder!"—Crossing the Border—A RemarkableGuide—Mountain Scenery—In Navarre—Challengedat Vera—Our Billet with the Parish Priest—The SadStory of an Irish Volunteer—Dialogue with DonCarlos—The Happy Valley—Bugle-Blasts—TheWriter in a Quandary—The Fifth Battalion ofNavarre—The Distribution of Arms—The BleedingHeart—Enthusiasm of the Chicos[152-187]
[CHAPTER IX.]
The Cura of Vera—Fueros of the Basques—Carlist Discipline—Fateof the San Margarita—The Squadronof Vigilance—How a Capture was Effected—TheSea-Rovers in the Dungeon—Visit to the Prisoners—SanSebastian—A Dead Season—The Defences of aThreatened City—Souvenirs of War—The Miqueletes—Ina Fix—A German Doctor's Warning[188-210]
[CHAPTER X.]
Belcha's Brigands—Pale-Red Republicans—The Hyena—Moreabout the San Margarita—Arrival of a RepublicanColumn—The Jaunt to Los Pasages—ASweet Surprise—"The Prettiest Girl in Spain"—AMadrid Acquaintance—A Costly Pull—The Diligenceat Last—Renteria and its Defences—A Furious Ride—InFrance Again—Unearthing Santa Cruz—TheOutlaw in his Lair—Interviewed at Last—The Truthabout the Endarlasa Massacre—A Death-Warrant—TheBuried Gun—Fanaticism of the Partisan-Priest[211-238]
[CHAPTER XI.]
An Audible Battle—"Great Cry and Little Wool"—ACarlist Court Newsman—The Religious War—TheSiege of Oyarzun—Madrid Rebels—"The Money ofJudas"—A Manifesto from Don Carlos—An IdealMonarch—Necessity of Social and Political ReconstructionProclaimed—A Free Church—A BroadPolicy—The King for the People—The TheologicalQuestion—Austerity in Alava—Clerical and Non-ClericalCarlists—Disavowal of Bigotry—A RepublicanEditor on the Carlist Creed—Character ofthe Basques—Drill and Discipline—Guerilleros versusRegulars[239-268]
[CHAPTER XII.]
Barbarossa—Royalist-Republicans—Squaring a Girl—AtIrun—"Your Papers?"—The Barber's Shop—ACarlist Spy—An Old Chum—The Alarm—A Breachof Neutrality—Under Fire—Caught in the Toils—TheHeroic Thomas—We Slope—A Colleague AdvisesMe—"A Horse! a Horse!"—State of Bilbao—DonCarlos at Estella—Sanchez Bregua Recalled—TolosaInvites—Republican Ineptitude—Do not Spur a FreeHorse—Very Ancient Boys—Meditations in Bed—ABiscay Storm[269-299]
[CHAPTER XIII.]
Nearing the End—Firing on the Red Cross—Perpetuityof War—Artistic Hypocrites—The Jubilee Year—TheConflicts of a Peaceful Reign—Major Russell—QuickPromotion—The Foreign Legion—The AspiringAdventurer—A Leader's Career—A PiraticalProposal—The "Ojaladeros" of Biarritz—A Friendin Need—Buying a Horse—Gilpin Outdone—"FredBurnaby"[300-317]
[Footnotes]
[Notes of the transcriber]