CLIII.
Paris, May 24, 1859.
I find myself once again in the great European capital. It is now a month since you heard from me last at Frankfort, Germany. I then left for Baden-Baden soon after the opening of the season. I never saw the country look more smiling and lovely. Nature had put on her most beautiful spring attire, and indeed nothing in Europe can surpass the natural scenery of the suburbs of this renowned watering-place.
The little city was brushed up as usual, and every hotel and lodging-house awaiting anxiously the arrival of guests, but in this I fear they will be woefully disappointed this year. The anxieties and financial difficulties growing out of the war, and the bitter feeling manifested by Germany towards the French, will prevent the usual rush of visitors. Few persons were there, and the magnificent gas-lighted saloons, with their bands of music, had few occupants. The employees of the gambling tables looked wistfully at every stranger, hoping their business will soon commence.
The past month has been full of exciting events. Austria has renounced negotiation. The war decree has gone forth. Sardinia has been invaded. The French Emperor with his troops has been called upon for relief. Austria is intriguing and stimulating the German powers to unite with her in fortifying the Rhine. The German press was most violent against the French Emperor, giving him the most opprobrious names and calling it a war of conquest. Austrian securities have fallen from eighty-five to thirty-eight. Frankfort held some fifty million florins of that national paper. The war loan was rejected and Austria made an arrangement with the National Bank, which only last year resumed specie payments, to grant a loan of a hundred millions in small circulating notes, making the same a legal tender. Up went the price of specie. The bankers and commercial classes suffered, and large failures occurred. Commerce and trade were paralysed. I met two Hungarians, who were leaving for the United States, who were fortunate enough to obtain specie at a loss of thirty-five per cent, against paper. This stubborn act of Austria lost her the sympathies of Europe, excepting the small German states, Bavaria, Wirtemburg, Hesse Cassel, Baden &c., some of whom are connected by family ties. Prussia has stood and still stands firm in resisting the warlike disposition of the small states of the confederation, observing an armed neutrality until the real interests of Germany proper are attacked.
The French people who opposed the war are now almost universally in its favor. The triumphal departure of the Emperor, his reception in Piedmont, the subscription to the French loan of more than four times the amount, justifies this belief. The report of a secret alliance between Russia and France, and the advancement of a corps of observation upon the Austrian and Prussian frontier, caused great consternation on the continent. The English funds fell five or six per cent., and many dealers and brokers were ruined by the panic which ensued. The Tory cabinet was denounced by the English. The report proved untrue. Then came the declaration of neutrality by England.
War declared, the French army were transported south by rail, and then crossed the Alps, while other regiments went by steamers on the Mediterranean to Genoa. The departure of the troops, the enthusiasm of the populace, the martial display and equipage of war has kept up a lively interest. The reports of the first battle and victory of Montebello are received, and we are anxiously waiting the news of further engagements. The national guard are the protectors of the city, and few regular troops are seen, which is another evidence of the popularity of the war of Italian independence.
France is engaged in a righteous cause in effecting the liberation of Italy from the yoke of tyranny and bondage of Austria. Having passed so much time in Italy, I may be permitted to judge of the hatred of foreign domination.
Sardinia was worthy of assistance, being the only really liberal and free government in the south of Europe. The Emperor, sagacious as he is, wanted the Italian question settled; and through the proposal of Russia for a congress, in which Austria dared not show her hand, he brought the matter to a focus. The occupation of the army, the glory of France at the head of European civilization, and the confirmation of the dynasty were needed. All these things had their influence. Austria was put in a false position. The result is war, and if confined to Italy good may grow out of it. If Germany attacks France on the Rhine, then the war becomes general; but the French government and press are doing everything possible to suppress such a move. The public journals are now unanimous in favor of Italian liberty, and the war cry is, down with the Austrians, and their expulsion from the shores of the Adriatic.
Last year this time I was riding and walking over the battle-grounds and fields of Alma, Inkerman, Kamiesch, Eupatoria, and Kertsch, where half a million lie buried, and probably some curious tourists among the number.
The death of the king of Naples has delivered that beautiful land of a tyrant. Probably the neutrality of the young king may be accepted. He is a cousin of Victor Emanuel, king of Sardinia, but the queen mother is the second wife of the deceased king, and of the house of Austria. She has been intriguing for the accession to the throne of her eldest son, and troubles are expected.
Strangers are getting away by small steamers in crowds, without comfort or accommodation. The war will make it very inconvenient for travellers. The Lloyd steamers in the Levant are withdrawn to the neutral harbor of Malta. The French have already blockaded the ports of the Adriatic and taken many Austrian prizes. I am thankful I have nothing undone in that direction, and can remain a neutral spectator.
1860.
CLIV.
Tetuan, Coast of Morocco, Africa, February 15, 1860.
After a short sojourn in the French capital, I took the rail for Marseilles. The distance of five hundred miles we made in twenty hours, in comfortable cars, warmed by shallow metallic vessels filled with hot water, and placed under the feet. This was even shorter time than two years since, when I passed over the same road to embark for Algeria.
It is now nearly four months since the declaration of war on the part of the Spaniards, who at vast expense have landed an army of thirty-five thousand men upon the coast of Morocco. Tangiers being well fortified, although blockaded, they could only land at Ceuta, a point occupied by them for convicts. A distance of six leagues then had to be made by land along the coast to the small river Tetuan, where they encamped in presence of the Moors, who occupied the heights and the city of Tetuan, which is upon an eminence six miles from the coast. A great battle was fought, and finally the city was besieged. The Moors in great numbers occupied the heights, and coming down in masses from the mountains headed by the brothers of the emperor of Morocco, harassed and attacked the Spaniards. They were, however, dislodged and cut up by the latter, who report in killed and wounded two thousand of the enemy and two hundred of their own; but verbal reports here say they lost one thousand in killed and wounded. The latter were sent away immediately to the hospitals of Malaga and Cadiz. Finding resistance useless, orders were given to evacuate the city, and the Moors fled in every direction in the mountains, but the Jews, a much oppressed race, remain, as also do the old and disabled Moors.
The city, which contained a population of some thirty thousand, now presents a strange aspect, the narrow streets being filled with soldiery, mules, and donkeys. The Jews have suffered much from pillage at the hands of the Moors and Kabyles of the Riff, who are not unlike their pirate associates, and the doors of a great number of houses are still seen broken open by these marauders, who regarded neither friend nor foe. The Israelites are rejoiced at the result, as such was the intolerance of the Mussulmans that they were obliged to take off their shoes in approaching a mosque.
Subscriptions have been made in different countries for the Jews who are at Gibraltar, who have been obliged to abandon the ports of Morocco. An agent has just arrived here with supplies for the sufferers in Tetuan, who stand much in need.
I scarcely know how to describe the singular scene that presents itself. On entering the roadstead I counted some forty-five steamers of different nations, including several Spanish war vessels, besides a large number of small sailing vessels, also several tugs for the purpose of discharging and towing, while feluccas, scows, and small boats loaded with merchandise and munitions of war were scattered about in the mouth of the river to the landing place near the square tower or citadel. The beach and quays are covered with cannon, bombs, balls, wheels for mounting, scores of pipes of red wine, boxes, bales and packages of all kinds for the supply of the army, and for venders and speculators in and around the different camps.
The first camp presented itself near the shore, quite in repose. Horses, mules, and donkeys were feeding. The soldiers were preparing their dinner over little fires of sticks, and from the little tents of the Spanish venders were heard the cries of oranges, cigars, liquors, and every conceivable article which can be disposed of to the troops. A temporary fort had been thrown up of earthwork and the branches of the cactus, which attains the height of a small tree in this climate, and cannon were planted at the angles and other openings to prevent surprise. Little tents for the soldiery, for six each, were spread upon the ground; those of the officers are of larger dimensions, and more comfortable.
As we proceeded further, martial music was heard in the distance, and an army of horsemen with lances came up followed by infantry and cavalry. Four thousand fresh troops had just arrived, and the road was lined with mules and horses, already jaded out with hard service, carrying provisions to the camps. Here and there was lying a poor animal who had drawn his last breath, while disabled Moorish cannon and balls were scattered about.
To the right and left the encampments were seen, and the music of bands was heard, mingling with the national airs of the Spanish soldiers, who appear happy, notwithstanding the fatigue of the campaign in an enemy’s country during a rainy season, with the accompaniment of cholera, which has cost the lives of many thousands. The weather is now, however, dry, and favorable to the health of the troops.
The orange gardens, with the olive and other trees, look fresh in the valleys, which extend for miles around, and the well whitewashed walls of the city glisten in the sun’s rays, so that one who was not familiar with Mussulman cities and structures would imagine its contents beautiful. The camp of Gen. O’Donnell is placed upon a plateau near the entrance, and over the fortified archway is already inscribed “Puerta de la Reyna,” or Queen’s Gate.
As soon as the entrance is effected, one finds the streets narrow and dirty. The houses are one and two stories high, with small courts in the centre and lodging rooms above. Fountains abound, as in all Moorish cities, for the washing of the feet of the faithful before entering the mosques. The principal mosque upon the great square is already occupied by the cross, and the burning wax candles beside the Virgin, in singular contrast with the suspended ostrich eggs usual in Mussulman temples.
Scarcely any accommodations can be found for strangers at any price, and such as can be found at enormous prices, remind me of California in its early days. Fortunately our steamer is supplied with all the comforts and conveniences, and we may go and come when we please.
The presumption is that the Moors will now sue for peace, which Spain will probably be glad to accept, as it will be difficult to penetrate a country where several millions of barbarians are found. If report tells the truth, the resources of the Emperor of Morocco in treasure are enormous, the result of hoarding from his ancestry down, and if the Spaniards can extract a few millions towards the expenses of the war, they will relieve themselves of a heavy burden, and put an amount of gold and silver in circulation now lying idle.
The Spaniards have landed already rails and ties for a short railroad for the transport of heavy war material to the city. They have also commenced a telegraph, probably for communication with Madrid, or to give the Moors an idea of European civilization. It struck me as curious that they should do in Africa what they have been so backward in accomplishing in their own country.