CV.
Braunschweig, Germany, Dec. 26, 1854.
My last was from Hanover. Braunschweig, the capital city of the duchy, notwithstanding its princely residence and forty thousand inhabitants, has not the life and activity generally observed in Hanover. The palace and grounds of the Herzog, or Duke Wilhelm, merit attention. Having no wife, or family, his court is not brilliant in proportion to the royal family of Hanover, although his own private revenue and ducal appointments are equal to two hundred thousand dollars of our currency; a very respectable sum for a population of two hundred and fifty thousand. The former Duke, who had his palace burned over his head, and was chased from his country for malconduct, I had occasion to speak of last winter, at a court ball given at the Tuileries. The present duke is the last of his family, and, being without issue, the reversion goes to the Prussian crown.
Christmas is an important festival in Germany; the city presented a gay appearance in consequence of the many preparations for this event. The market places were covered with Tannen Baumer, or fir trees, with booths and tents filled with every variety of fancy articles, for presents, not forgetting a profusion of honey cakes in every form, for which the town has a celebrity. All classes must have large or small fir trees standing upon platforms, some of which are decorated with inclosed garden houses in miniature, and other designs.
Returning here in time for the Christmas-eve ceremonies, which I had a good opportunity of seeing at a friend’s house, you will pardon my describing, at this holiday season, what may interest the young. In the centre of the saloon stood a small tree, nearly the height of the ceiling, its branches hung with variegated colored glass balls, round cakes, nuts in gold-and silver-leaf foil, confectionery of various kinds, the infant Jesus in a lying position suspended from the branches, the whole interspersed with wax tapers. The tables were spread with a variety of clothing, and other useful and ornamental articles for the children of from eight to fourteen years of age, who were anxiously waiting outside the closed folding doors until the illumination took place; then, each one rushed to his or her table, expressing childish astonishment and delight. Once recovered from their emotions, the parents were surprised in turn by the children, who had prepared a miniature tree and many little articles of embroidery, wrought at intervals unknown to the elders. The expressions of wonder and joy are general. Grandmothers, aunts, and nieces, had been industriously employed for the past three weeks in preparing gifts. The servants next received their presents. The evening closed with refreshments.
Speaking of Christmas Eve, I am reminded of Polterabend, or Nuptial Eve: some evenings since, I was startled by extraordinary sounds upon the sidewalk, opposite my house, and on inquiring, found that it was caused by the throwing of glass bottles and a perfect shower of old crockery plates, which singular custom was the greeting of the friends of a young lady who was to be married on the following day; and, at the appointed time, the carriages arrived to take the lady-bride to the church over which the minister-groom presided. I have passed houses, where the front entrances appeared as if a family quarrel had made a perfect wreck of the porcelain.
The people in Hanover are dazzled with palaces, horses, carriages, and liveried court-dresses, and servants. Ladies look with admiration upon the queen, and her richly-clad maids of honor; children exclaim, “There goes the pretty little crown-prince and the princesses!” And how often have I observed in theatres and concerts the patient people waiting a half hour or more the arrival of the royal suite before the exercises commenced, when the impatient Americans, in similar circumstances, would have brought down the house over the ears of the manager. Then the cringing manner of the employees and military officers, keeping an eye on the king: when he applauds, the applause becomes universal, while, if he is silent, a meritorious artist receives, perhaps, not the slightest compliment.
One great source of annoyance in Germany, is the great variety of coin and weights in use among the thirty and more different empires, kingdoms, duchies, and landgraves, whereby we must always lose in exchange in going from one point to another. An effort has been made in the Bund, or confederacy, at Frankfort, to bring about more uniformity, but the great quantity of base metal, of little value, in use in some districts, causes the measure to be opposed.
1855.
CVI.
Berlin, Prussia, Feb. 27, 1855.
When I last wrote you from Braunschweig I was on the eve of departure for Berlin and Vienna, and thought it not improbable that I might go again to Italy; but the severe winter weather coming suddenly on induced me to quiet myself in comfortable quarters in this city, where from the conveniences for heating with the use of wood, the cold is less felt than in some parts of Italy. Hamburg, Magdeburg, and Potsdam, en route to Berlin, I had once visited in summer, under more favorable circumstances, consequently my stay in them was short.
I was reminded in Magdeburg that Martin Luther, one of the great men whom Germany has given to the world, and to whose former abode in Wittenburg, where the Reformation commenced, I had wended my steps, was a poor student there, and often sang in the streets to assist in supporting himself, as many others are doing daily. Potsdam is to Berlin what Versailles is to Paris. Frederic the Great made it a lovely retreat for the court. Here are seen the apartments of the great warrior nearly as he left them, remarkable for simplicity; the truck-bed upon which he slept, his writing-table blotted with ink, silken covered chairs partly torn by his dogs, and the plates upon which they were fed.
The windmill stands behind the palace of Sans Souci, an emblem of justice in Prussia. Though the story is well known I cannot forbear repeating it. The great Frederic, wanting to buy the mill with the grounds, to augment his gardens, was resisted by the miller, who gained the lawsuit. The king erected the present large mill for him. Since then the descendants of the miller, being in embarrassed circumstances, offered to sell it to the late king, who would not accept the offer, but settled a sum sufficient to enable the family to retain possession, saying the mill belonged to history, and was one of the monuments of the country.
It is now some years since I strolled over the grounds of the Kremlin in Moscow, and it was a reminiscence to find here a little chapel belonging to the Russian colony, surmounted by three domes, of miniature Kremlin form, and beautifully fitted up by the royal munificence for the Greek service.
While in this capital on two former occasions in summer, it struck me as being lifeless. We have cold weather, with ice and snow; the splendid sleighs and horses, adorned with variegated colored feathers, present a lively appearance. The city appears full of life and gaiety; the opera and theatres seem well attended, dancing and music being striking traits in the German character; balls adapted to all classes are continually taking place. The Kroll establishment of the Brandenburg Thor which corresponds to Niblo’s in New York, but is on a more stupendous scale, and compares favorably with anything in Paris for its elegance, among other entertainments, has lately given masquerade balls. Curiosity induced me to attend one, in order to compare it with those of other countries, and found, as I expected, that the people are not adapted to this species of amusement, as in Spain, and in the colonies, where, during the carnival, all classes unite in these diversions in every variety of costume, assuming particular parts, and sustaining them admirably. I had passed a far more agreeable and rational evening, under the folds of the stars and stripes, at the house of Gov. Vroom, of New Jersey, our present worthy representative at the court of Berlin, on the anniversary of the birthday of Washington. There were some twenty-five in number present, representing different States of the Union, who responded to the calls, sentiments, and toasts naturally called forth by the handsome entertainment. The night was cold, cheerful American grate-fires were blazing, and the party conversed together upon home topics. My mind wandered as I saw the beautiful silk banner hanging against the wall, to the last occasion I had had of commemorating this festival. It was at our minister’s house in Brazil, three years since, we mustered a small party of half-a-dozen; the flag was flying from the balcony overlooking the beautiful bay of Rio Janeiro, and the doors and windows were thrown wide open to get a breath of air, the perspiration starting from every pore, and this in the height of a South American summer on the 22d of February.
Most of the Americans here are students who have the advantage of lectures in the University on law, medicine, botany, Egyptian antiquities, and other subjects.
The royal library contains five hundred thousand volumes, and has a public reading-room for students and strangers, who, when recommended, can obtain books the day after their application, to take to their homes. German is badly spoken by the common people of Berlin; the educated classes in society speak the language purely.
You are aware that for many years I have not passed a winter in a northern latitude, and notwithstanding that the present is considered a rigorous one, it is not so cold as we have it at home; still I have felt it sensibly, and suffered while exposed out of doors. Having procured good quarters in a central position, in the vicinity of churches, universities, the museum, opera-house, reading-rooms, with a southern exposure, I should not say that Berlin life is disagreeable, notwithstanding my occasional longing for the balmy temperature and ripe fruits of a West Indian climate. The heating apparatus is called “Ofen;” I have two of them in my apartments. They stand like monuments of white porcelain in the corner of the room, eight feet in height, four feet wide, and two feet deep; they are useful and ornamental; are heated morning and evening, and throw out an agreeable and uniform heat, without any of the noxious vapors of coal. The windows are double sashed, as in Russia, and plants, of which the German people are fond, are flourishing in my parlor.