CXLVI.
Swinemunde, Prussia, Sept. 20, 1858.
In my last communication from Denmark, space did not permit a description of many objects of attraction in and about Copenhagen, which might afford pleasure and information to the tourists, most of whom, however, wend their way to the south of Europe.
The celebrated Danish sculptor, Thorwaldsen, left his fortune for the founding of a museum, in the court of which repose his remains, surrounded by the models and many of the originals of all his great works of art. The government collections of antiquity, from the earliest occupation of the country, when hatchets and weapons of stone were only known, marking the various periods of civilization, and improvements from wood and stone to iron and steel, are of great interest.
The visitor can form a pretty accurate idea of Iceland, Lapland, and Greenland life from the many objects of costume, boats, sledges drawn by dogs, &c., in use in those countries. The suburbs of the city abound with beautiful gardens, and places of public resort for concerts, summer theatres, and amusements for the masses, who flock thither on festival occasions. The now gay appearance of the city, and the air of comfort among the people, struck me favorably, having seen them first during the Schleswig-Holstein war, under disadvantageous circumstances.
By steamer I came to this place, from which I write, lying upon the island of Usedom, about fifty miles from Stettin, upon the river Oder. It is a harbor, bath, and garrison city of five thousand inhabitants.
The abolition of the Sound duties has proved of great advantage to Stettin, to this place, and indeed to all the Prussian ports of the Baltic. They should thank our government for the initiative measures in the matter. Denmark felt aggrieved, without doubt, at our obstinacy, but eventually it will probably be for her interest, as the revenue fund, the respective sums contributed by different powers, will perhaps quite equal the former receipts, particularly after passing through the hands of many office-holders.
The communication daily between this place and Stettin, up the river, the departure and arrival of sailing vessels, steamers for Sweden, Denmark, and Russia, gives an additional interest to bath guests, whose numbers amount to perhaps a thousand at some periods of the season. The bath-houses for both sexes lie about a mile from the town, upon a beautiful sandy beach, and are reached by shady walks for those on foot, or by good carriage roads. The excursions are by steamer to the island of Rugen; by carriage to another bath called Herrings Dorf, prettily situated among leafy groves, with a delightful and invigorating salt atmosphere. A village of fishermen is found in the vicinity, who furnish a good supply of the eatables of the briny sea. The weather is still mild, the water sufficiently warm, and the baths are considered serviceable until the first of next month. It being however late, the majority of the guests have departed, leaving the theatre players with a light audience, and the weekly balls thinly attended. The house owners can repose for the winter upon the summer harvest, until spring, when the whitewashing, painting, and little flower gardens must be looked after, and made as attractive as possible, to the eye of the tenant.
The new fortifications here are of remarkable strength and beauty, effectually protecting the narrow entrance to the harbor. The brick lighthouse, two hundred feet in height, ascended by a spiral staircase of three hundred steps, is provided with the French Reflectors, and can be seen for many miles. A view from the top over the sea, the river, and the surrounding country, well repays the climber. Our worthy German vice-consul, Herr Krouse, and his excellent family, have offered civilities tending to make my sojourn very agreeable. The soil is sandy, the streets unpaved, and in some respects I am reminded of Cape May; but an excursion a few miles brings one to dense pine forests, then to fertile pasture fields, where fine crops of hay have been gathered; then come turf meadows, with inexhaustible quantities of fuel, which, strange to say, after being dug over a few years is found to be renewed. These belong to the Crown, that leases them out for a term, for extracting or cutting, and derives a large revenue therefrom. Then we ascend a high hill covered with beech trees, affording an extensive and enchanting view of the neighboring country. At one point some four thousand acres of land are covered with water, or shallow lake, which is in process of being reclaimed, or pumped out, after the system of Holland. Altogether, the country has attractions for one accustomed to sights where nature is more lavish of her gifts; but those from the flat lands of the north of the kingdom, who smell salt water for the first time, are quite in raptures, and chant the praises of the baths of Prussia’s most prominent watering-place.
On inquiry I find the laboring classes are better paid here, as is the case in most sea-ports, than they are in the interior. In Denmark the condition of that class seems easier, and there are less dispositions to emigrate. The female portion of some parts of Germany are the most entitled to sympathy. They are made slaves and beasts of burden, and ill paid for their services. Even in hotels where the wirt, or master, taxes in his bill eight silben groschen (or twenty cents per day) for service, not including the porter or boots, the poor domestics get in many cases only twenty-four thalers (or eighteen dollars) per year, and where the good will of the traveller makes a donation in many cases it is extorted from them under penalty of dismissal. More would emigrate if they had the means to get away, and would be industrious and valuable citizens in any country. The tender feelings of Europe, through incendiary works and pamphlets, have been so excited that, as Americans, we are called upon to rebut the charges of inconsistency of slave-holding under our republican system, as if we at the north were responsible for the south, and can only reply that millions on the continent might well envy the well-fed negroes upon southern plantations.
It is to be regretted that our laws are so lax in the punishment of crime, and that so many high-handed examples of public outrage occur, all of which are portrayed in glowing colors in the European journals.