CXLVIII.
Hamburg, Germany, Nov. 5, 1858.
In the extreme north of Germany lies the grand duchy of Mecklenberg, a country less visited by travellers than most other parts of the Vaterland, whose institutions are peculiar to itself, and which is not included in the Zollverein, or Tariff Union. As it was the last of the German States I had not seen, I was desirous of visiting it. The lines of railroad from Frankfort-on-the-Oder, where I last wrote you, conveyed me to Schwerin, the capital of the Duchy.
It has a population of twenty thousand, and can boast of one of the finest schloss, or palaces in Deutschland. Wonders never cease. I was astonished to find this new Gothic edifice, which stands upon a small island, and upon which some millions have been expended, and could only wonder how in the nineteenth century the potentate of a small territory could gather together and expend such sums in extravagant construction. The saloons, halls, and dining-rooms, as well as bed-chambers, are luxuriously finished and furnished in modern style. A spiral staircase from the first floor to the upper apartments is of black marble, and the railing of bronze gold gilt. The church, or chapel, is richly decorated, and the windows are of stained glass. Several sentinels were under arms; permission was granted, for a fee, to inspect the whole premises, with the hot-houses, and obtain a fine view over the beautiful lake, reminding one of the sheets of water in the western part of our state.
The peasants are still attached to the soil, without the privilege of obtaining title for lands. The landholders own large estates, and are wealthy. The duties upon importations are light. This class of citizens can obtain at small cost all articles they require. The crown is possessed of an immense domain, which brings in large revenues, enabling the grand-ducal family to expend large sums without extorting from the land proprietors; but inquiry may be made, “who pays?” the answer naturally is, “the labor of the peasant.” Time will make a change. The downtrod workman, if he can raise the means, will find his way to America, and they will have to introduce hired cultivators from the neighboring countries, or abandon the system.
Rostock and Weimar are their sea-ports on the Baltic; the former has a population of twenty thousand, and is quite noted for its shipbuilding. I found many vessels lying in ordinary for want of employment, growing out of the commercial crisis, and but few on the stocks.
Mecklenberg not being a manufacturing state, and the wealthy land proprietors not being able to loan on home securities, turned their attention to interest in shipbuilding, and are groaning over their losses.
A horticultural, agricultural, and mechanical exhibition was being held, which was of interest. The farm implements were of a heavy character, and capable of much improvement. As in most German towns, the walks and promenades have received much attention. The old fortifications and ramparts have been planted with shade trees and flowers, and afford a delightful stroll for the inhabitants.
The Blucher square, or place, contains the bronze monument erected to the memory of the marshal, celebrated at Waterloo, who was born in Rostock, in 1743. The parks, grounds, and lakes in and about Schwerin are as lovely as could be desired; but the residence city, notwithstanding its arsenal, port, and other public buildings, has the air of a forced growth.
An hour’s ride by railroad brought me to this great commercial, free trade city, with its population of one hundred and sixty-five thousand.
The great fire of 1842, which burnt over seventy-one streets and squares, and destroyed nearly two thousand houses, was the cause of making the new city as beautiful as it now is, and one sees no traces of the great conflagration; but, on the contrary magnificent rows of tall, solidly constructed houses, public buildings, churches, exchange, immense hotels, of American internal arrangements, a number of which are situated upon the Alster Basin—a fine sheet of water, with broad avenues and sidewalks surrounding it. The streets of the old city are narrow, and paved with round cobble stones, dirty and dreary, making the contrast more striking. Almost continuous walks upon the site of the old walls surround the city, and are planted with shade trees and shrubbery. The view of the harbor and the Elbe, with its shipping, and the forests of masts, obtained from a height, is truly grand.
Hamburg being strictly a commercial city, and divested of the military parade, titles, orders, and the pomp of a court of monarchical cities, strikes an American coming from other parts of the continent, as being more like a Republican metropolis. The peculiar costume of the women water-carriers would be exceptional. Altona, in Holstein, belonging to Denmark, has almost grown into the city.
The gates are closed at night, and toll must be paid by every person passing, according to the lateness of the hour. The currency of the city is its peculiar kind—shilling, and mark Banco; the former worth two cents, and sixteen for mark. The traveller in Germany, in passing from one frontier to another, must dispose of the small coin of the country, which may be of no value after a few hours’ ride by the railway. A gentleman bound for Russia, whom I lately met in the cars, wished to purchase some fruit for his wife. He was on his way from Paris, did not speak German, and pulled out a handful of coin which he had received in change along the road, none of which would pass. The train was almost moving, and he was giving up in despair, when I came to the rescue. Mecklenberg, Denmark, and even Bremen change, is of little value here, although only separated by the frontier. A story is told of a Frenchman, who, starting on a tour through Germany and Italy, as an experiment put a twenty-franc gold piece in his vest pocket, changing the same into the currency of each country as he passed, and on his return found the entire sum had gone into the hands of the money-changers.