LXIII.
Hong Kong, China, Aug. 20, 1851.
This island, the name of which translated is Fragrant Springs (it is certainly supplied with running water, though barren and hilly), is twenty-one miles in circumference, and is situated on the north side of the bay which communicates with the Canton river, to which it is the key. It was ceded in treaty to the English, and is a great acquisition, but has cost them five or six millions in erecting buildings for troops, fortifications, and general improvements, in addition to the large expenditures of English capitalists. It is decidedly an English town, although their numbers are not great therein, though it contains a regiment of one thousand troops. Its being a free port facilitates contraband trade; it has a large Chinese population, and in all contains probably twenty thousand inhabitants. Macao, on the opposite side of the bay, about thirty miles distant, occupied for centuries by the Portuguese, is an agreeable place of residence, but it has, through bad management, lost its trade, and its harbor is quite deserted. It is now used as a place of summer resort, but rents have declined, and the people are poor. The heat of Hong Kong and Canton is very oppressive at this season of the year; we had the thermometer in the latter city from ninety-eight to one hundred for several days in succession, with but little difference in the night. Humboldt says that La Guayra, in South America, is the hottest place in the world, but I suffered more from the heat in Canton than there.
Before leaving Hong Kong, I made an excursion to the Whampoa Pagoda, which is nine stories high, of an octagonal form, and has in the distance a most imposing effect. The duck boats by the river bank attracted my attention; the ducks are driven ashore in large numbers to feed, and at the sound of a bell they rush back to their quarters, from the circumstance that the last one who enters gets whipped for being dilatory. The Chinese have a temple here, also, well fitted up; and last evening it was magnificently lighted by their fanciful lanterns, and a festival called Sing Song came off, with the beating of gongs, kettle drums, and other instruments, and a supply of confectionery and other eatables, inside and outside the building, upon stands, for sale.
There were immense figures of men and animals, made of painted pasteboard strengthened by wires, which were taken out and burned as offerings to their gods. We could expose ourselves with perfect safety among the people, and examine minutely the idols of the altars, feeling a sense of security on British soil which I could not feel in and about Canton, under like circumstances.
I was quartered in Canton in the most desirable part for sights, and some of a most amusing character were constantly seen. One day I counted from my window eighteen stout barbers, who carried on their backs a three-legged stool with straps attached, and in the bottom a chest of lances; they were engaged on, or waiting for, customers in the open court. The operation of dressing the long tail and scraping the pate, in addition to the practice of cleaning the eye and ear, occupies some time, for all of which they get about six cash, or half a cent each. Mandarins occasionally passed in sedan chairs, with suites of attendants, and the hurry of the crowd was observed to allow their mandarinships a free passage. A large wedding procession attracted my attention from the great quantity of presents therein. I counted fifty coolies with loaded hand-barrows, filled with fruit, flowers, confectioneries, cakes, nuts, robes, &c., in rich profusion, preceding the bride, who was conducted to the house of the groom veiled, in a sedan chair, as the tiny feet of the ladies are seldom seen in the streets. They are affianced early by their parents without ever having seen their lovers; and when their intended husbands gaze upon them, if acceptable, they are supported by women across a pan of coals into the house.
They are sometimes rejected, but damages are expected. This leads to unhappy marriages and polygamy, which is recognised by the law, the children having legitimate rights. The river-women all go bare-footed in warm weather, and their feet are of natural size.
The upper classes still continue the bandaging of the feet as a mark of rank, which is eulogized in Chinese poetry. This barbarous practice consists in turning under the small toes of the infant and bandaging them, leaving only the great toe exposed, which system in course of time raises the instep and throws the heel backwards, giving them more equilibrium; the iron shoe is not used, but the wrappers are changed daily. Among the poorest classes, female children are much neglected, and frequent instances of infanticide occur, woman being considered born to drudgery, and not meriting an education.
I came down by steamer, the only passenger, and in the evening found fire-arms brought up and laid on the companion-way; I naturally asked the cause, and was informed there was nearly a million of bullion on board for shipment, and that an attempt had recently been made by a Chinese crew who had concerted a plan with some fifteen forward deck passengers, by previous understanding, for the taking of the shipment of specie, and to cut off the officers while at table, and run the boat outside of Boca Tigris. The plot, however, was discovered in time to prevent it.
Not unfrequently the piratical Chinese attack the junks, notwithstanding all their crews go armed with spears and lances. Now they employ all Englishmen on board of the river boats which contain treasure. We have had news of the loss of the steamer Pasha, which was run down by the steamer Erie, in the Straits of Malacca, with the loss of several lives, and a large quantity of opium. It was from carelessness, as the steamers had exchanged signals about midnight, but notwithstanding, the Erie at full speed struck the Pasha with her port bow, a little slanting, a few feet abaft the mainmast, and she sank in five minutes, without having time to lower her boats.
This has produced great excitement here, both steamers belonging to the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Co. I think now I can embark with safety to-morrow on board the steamer Malta for Singapore, as more care is always exercised after an accident.