XCIX.
Aix-la-Chapelle, July 25, 1854.
The facilities for travel have so greatly increased since I first visited Europe in 1841, that I can scarcely realize that I am now writing from Aix, in Prussia, and that a portion of my last letter from Paris was descriptive of the baths of Aix en Savoie, in the north of Italy, where I was some six weeks since, thence passing through Switzerland to the French capital, making a considerable sojourn, with excursions to Versailles, Enghien, Fontainebleau, &c.; proceeding to Belgium, visiting Brussels, Liege, and the waters of the Spa. These points were all familiar to me, consequently only agreeable as souvenirs of the past. I found Brussels the same miniature Paris, but augmented in size, and containing some two hundred and forty thousand of population, partaking less of the Flemish character than formerly; the houses, shops, and streets very cleanly, with a great amount of industry. Dogs are there turned to account, and seen drawing carts as in Germany. The window shutters of the first floors of many of the houses are supplied with small projecting mirrors, for the convenience of the ladies, as in Holland, enabling them to see the foot passengers up and down the sidewalks, without showing themselves obtrusively. The Park opposite the royal residence, and near the former palace of the Prince of Orange, is a miniature Tuileries, and affords an agreeable promenade. The manufacturing town of Liege, upon the banks of the Meuse, in a fertile valley with most romantic scenery, is well worth a visit. It is noted for its manufacture of cloth and fire-arms. Owing to a free use of coal, the old city is black and dirty, not unlike the manufacturing districts of England. The most delightful valley is that of Spa, celebrated for its ferruginous waters, which are highly charged with iron. The country is fertile; the roads and public walks are bordered by tall and expansive shade trees. The winding alleys, little pavilions and look-outs from the heights, give great variety, and induce one to sojourn here, as the lodging houses and hotels are good and clean. The cuisine for reading, music, and play are attractive, and encourage many English to visit this picturesque spot, as the route is so practicable by way of sea to Ostend, and a railroad being within six miles, families are enabled to get here with little difficulty. The place is famous for painted fancy articles of every description, which are its only commerce; consequently it is a neat, genteel, and quiet watering place.
I had called upon our Minister at Brussels, and upon the Prussian Ambassador, and found them both absent, but had the pleasure of a rencontre with them at Spa. The only privileged bank or roulette in Belgium, is at the springs; the owners are very liberal, and contribute largely to the entertainment of guests. A handsome ball and illumination was given while I was there.
Aix has forty-eight thousand inhabitants, and numerous hot mineral springs in and about the city. Its name, Aquæ Grani, and its origin and prosperity, date back to the Roman era, when the Proconsul Granis and his legions stopped here in their passage from the Gauls to Germany. Its healing springs decided Charlemagne to make it his favorite sojourn with his numerous court. It was the place for crowning the German emperors, from Louis le Debonnaire, in 873, to Ferdinand I., in 1531. There are eight huge sulphur baths, to which are attached good and commodious quarters, giving invalids the advantage of bathing without exposure. At this season of the year the baths and hotels are full; the arrivals thus far reaching several thousands; the names of strangers arriving from all sources are published daily in a small sheet, with their places of residence. The city lies in a valley, and is defended by the now verdant hills, which protect it from high winds; it may be considered a desirable place for health during the inclement season. The principal places of resort for strangers and citizens, within the city, are the Kurhaus, containing library and reading rooms, the concert halls, and a ball-room with a garden, enlivened with an orchestra in the evening. There may be found here a large re-union of ladies and gentlemen, wherein most of the languages of Europe are heard. The fountain Elise, and the garden adjoining, are most frequented in the morning by those who imbibe; glass in hand you see them strolling under the pavilion, reconciling themselves to a disagreeable draught, with an air from the military band. The municipality has here the benefit derived from the gaming tables, which has enabled them to erect a fine new hospital. It is curious and instructive to notice the passion for play—the anxiety manifested upon the countenances of those not accustomed to this unfortunate vice. It is not confined to the male sex, but numbers of beautiful and fashionably-dressed ladies are seen surrounding the tables, staking or drawing in with tiny rakes the glittering pieces of gold. From a height called Louisberg, is presented a beautiful panorama of the city and suburbs. The avenues for a drive and walks through the woods are really charming; an excellent restaurant, erected by the city authorities, with occasional fêtes and bands of music, are among the attractions. As I was strolling alone through the forest, towards evening, I reached a culminating point on an eminence, where I had one of the most magnificent landscapes lying before me, and my mind was involuntarily carried towards home. I heard the shrill whistle and the tread of the iron horse in the distant valley beyond me. I could almost fancy myself gazing from a certain knoll, upon which I have often stood, a little south of Poughkeepsie, with the distant hum from the railroad trains. Although nature had done much, art had not yet accomplished what was required. I looked in vain, however, for the majestic Hudson, whitened with sails, and the towering summits of the Highlands, and awakening from my reverie, I came to the conclusion that there are but few spots which nature and the work of man, combined, have rendered more attractive and agreeable than the Spring side of our beautiful city.
The remains of Charlemagne, the most powerful of Emperors, lie in the old cathedral founded by him. It has now withstood the ravages of more than a thousand years, having been consecrated by Pope Leo in the year 804. It contains many relics preserved in gold and silver cases set with precious stones. The most valuable of these relics were presented by Queen Isabella of Spain, in the sixteenth century, and are only opened once in seven years, for a fortnight, which occasions the pilgrimage of thousands of believers at that time. They are taken from their envelopes of silk, covered with cloths of gold and silver, and beset with jewels. They consist of a white cotton dress, supposed to have been worn by the mother of our Saviour; the linen with which the infant Jesus was clad; the cloth upon which the head of John the Baptist was placed; and the sack with which Christ girded his loins.
A large portion of the population is employed in the manufacture of cloths, silks, pins, needles, and various branches of trade. The Americans are among the best customers for cloths. We had a small fair here the other day. The country people stared and gazed and made their little purchases; mountebanks, menageries, trained monkeys and dogs, flying horses, and albinoes were plentiful; there were moving wax figures of Christ and his disciples at the table; and a living representation of his condemnation and flagellation, with verbal descriptions in German. Lager beer, cheese, and pipes were in general demand.
It must not be supposed that these people know nothing of California. I saw once a panorama of the trip to the land of gold, via the Isthmus of Panama. My curiosity led me, a few evenings since, to look in upon a much vaunted panorama now exhibiting here, painted by two artists who had crossed the plains. The gold diggings, the view of Sacramento city, the descent of the river to Benicia and San Francisco, were tolerably executed. A frightful shipwreck upon the Mexican coast made the audience shudder; the South American pirates seizing and burning a vessel, made them promise without doubt, to stay quietly at home. The beautiful tropical vegetation of Nicaragua was enchanting, but the serpents were frightful. Finally, after a long voyage, via Havana, we were brought safely to the port of New York. The Battery and Castle Garden, with a multitude of shipping, were before us; the spire of Trinity church soared up high; large and beautiful steamers with upper deck saloons were represented—the Reindeer being just ready for departure. The description given as the canvass rolled by, was interesting, although exaggerated; but when, in conclusion, the above-named steamer exploded, with five hundred passengers on board, I thought it was carrying the joke too far. I told the exhibitor, at the close, that we admitted the explosion and the loss of seven lives, but as the tide of emigration was great from Germany to America, we could not afford such wholesale slaughter.