CHESTER.
Although this city is not strictly within the cognizance of our publication, yet its close proximity to North Wales, and the advantages which it offers as a starting point from which a tour of the Principality may be commenced, warrant us in devoting to it a passing notice. Chester abounds with objects of interest to the traveller; and its many antique relics of bygone ages never fail to excite the admiration of those who take pleasure in the quaint architecture, or historical memorials of former times.
Its old walls, its antique rows, its curiously carved and gable-ended houses, its venerable cathedral, its solemn towers, its abbey gates, the ruined Priory, and the time-worn church of St. John, may be enumerated among the more prominent vestiges of its antiquities. While its noble castle, its unrivalled Grosvenor Bridge, and the elegant lodge at the entrance of Eaton Park, are among the modern attractions which the tourist will examine with interest and delight; but to the description of which we shall not in this place devote a fuller notice, as they are more particularly alluded to elsewhere.
CHIRK,
(Denbighshire.)
| Llangollen | 7 |
| London | 176 |
| Oswestry | 5 |
| Ruabon | 6 |
Chirk is pleasantly situated on the northern bank of the river Ceiriog, which, flowing through a small vale of great beauty, here separates the counties of Denbigh and Salop, and of course Wales and England. It is a very neat and clean village, and contains some highly respectable houses, and several substantial and well-built cottages, having been greatly improved within the last few years by the late Mrs. Myddelton Biddulph, who, on coming into possession of the Chirk Castle estates, pulled down several dilapidated buildings, and erected others of modest and uniform appearance for her tenants, on more eligible sites. The Holyhead road, on both sides the village, has been widened and altered within the last few years, so as to avoid the irregularities and windings in its course. There are some coal mines in this parish, extensive lime works, and several large iron forges, which employ a great number of hands. The village has a good church, and in the yard are several remarkably old yew trees.
Chirk Aqueduct.
The Ellesmere canal enters this parish from Shropshire, and is conveyed across the vale of Chirk and the river Ceiriog by means of an aqueduct, two hundred and thirty yards long, consisting of ten arches, the piers of which are sixty-five feet high, and then immediately enters a tunnel two hundred and twenty yards long. On emerging from this subterranean passage, it proceeds on its course through the parish, and then enters another tunnel, soon after which it is carried over the vale of the Dee by the stupendous aqueduct of Pont-y-Cyssylltau. About one mile and a half to the west of the village is
CHIRK CASTLE,
proudly situated on an eminence, backed by the Berwyn mountains. It is a venerable quadrangular embattled structure, defended by a low massive tower at each corner, and another in the centre of the north front, where is the principal entrance, under an arched gateway guarded by a portcullis, into a square area of considerable dimensions, round which the various apartments are ranged: on the east side of this area extends a low embattled corridor, leading into the principal apartments, which were greatly altered, modernised, and embellished by the late Mrs. Biddulph, within the last few years; but the old entrance to the hall is by a flight of steps on the north side of the area. The picture gallery, at the south end of which is the chapel, is 100 feet in length by 22 in width, and contains some good portraits and other paintings.
Chirk castle is supposed to have been built in the year 1013, and was an extremely strong fortification. The front is about 250 feet; and two persons abreast may parade the battlements with ease. It was besieged by the parliamentary forces, and considerably battered by the cannon of Cromwell. The repairs cost £80,000.
The park is extensive, and disposed with picturesque effect, the inequalities of its surface, and the declivity of the hill extending behind it and towards the north, having afforded a favourable scope for the arrangement of the trees and plantations. Near New Hall, which is described as an old seat of the Myddeltons, rebuilt many years ago as a farm-house, and surrounded by a moat, at the entrance into the park from Llangollen and Wrexham, stands a pair of iron gates, of the richest, most delicate, and exquisite workmanship, designed and executed by a common blacksmith.
The summit of the castle commands a wide expanse of great beauty and magnificence, offering to the naked eye an uninterrupted view into seventeen different counties. The river Ceiriog runs on the west side of the castle, through a deep and picturesque valley, remarkable in history as the scene of a sanguinary conflict in 1165, between the forces under Henry the Second and those of the Welsh under their brave Prince Owen Gwynedd, when the latter obtained a decisive victory, and compelled the Saxon monarch to seek safety in a retreat to his own territories.
In this neighbourhood are many ancient fortifications, the most noticeable of which is part of Offa’s dyke, thrown up as the boundary between the ancient Britons and the Saxons in 763.
This fine estate has been in possession of the Myddelton family since the beginning of the seventeenth century; the present possessor is Colonel Robert Myddelton Biddulph, Lord Lieutenant of Denbighshire, paternally descended from the Biddulphs of Ledbury, in Herefordshire.
One mile below the village of Chirk is also
Bryn Kinallt,
the elegant seat of Lord Dungannon. It is delightfully situated on an elevation, and surrounded by extensive and beautiful plantations.
CLYNOG,
(Caernarvonshire.)
| Caernarvon | 10 |
| Llanllyfni | 6 |
| Pwllheli | 10 |
This beautiful village is situated on the turnpike-road, about equidistant between Caernarvon and Pwllheli. It has a remarkably fine gothic church, the tower of which rises very beautifully from among a verdant cluster of noble trees.
St. Beuno, the reputed uncle of St. Winifred, erected the church and a grand mausoleum, now called St. Beuno’s chapel, which communicates with the church through a dark vaulted passage of six yards. In this chapel the remains of the pious founder, who lived in the seventh century, were deposited, and here also was his saintly niece interred. Her effigy in stone, mutilated like an Egyptian mummy, is still to be seen at this sacred edifice.
About a hundred yards from the church, adjoining the turnpike-road, is St. Beuno’s well, eight feet square, inclosed by a wall eight feet high. This well was much famed for healing the sick, and particularly for curing the rickets in children. Within the last fifty years, however, the well has ceased to attract so many devotees, though no doubt can exist as to the sanative virtues of its waters.
In the south-east corner of the church, near the altar-table there is an old wooden chest, belted with iron, and fastened to the floor, called “Cŷff Beuno” (Beuno’s chest), which was originally placed there to receive the offerings of money from the devotees of the saint, who repaired there for comfort and healing.
Between Clynog and Caernarvon is Glynllifon, the seat of Lord Newborough. It was recently destroyed by fire, and is now rebuilt.—Near the coast is Dinas Dinlle, a Roman station, 30 acres in extent, supposed to have been artificially raised by the soldiers of Agricola.
Rhaiadr Dibyn Mawr is a waterfall among the mountains, distant about two miles from Clynog.
CONWAY,
(Caernarvonshire.)
| Aber | 9 |
| Abergele | 12 |
| Bangor | 14½ |
| Caernarvon | 24 |
| Llandulas | 9 |
| Llanrwst | 12 |
| London | 236 |
| Penmaen Mawr | 6 |
This is one of the most interesting and picturesque towns in North Wales. The approach to the town from the Denbighshire side of the river is remarkably interesting, and presents a fine view of the noble castle and the beautiful suspension bridge, with the adjacent mountain scenery, forming a glorious panorama of surpassing loveliness and sublimity. The pearl fishery of the Conway, which even yet, though shorn of its former importance, affords employment to several poor families, was celebrated in the time of the Romans. Pliny says that Julius Cæsar dedicated in one of the temples of Rome a breastplate set with British pearls, probably from this fishery. And in comparatively modern days, one of these pearls, presented to the Queen of Charles the Second by Sir R. Wynne, was honoured with a place in the royal crown, where probably it yet shines, in testimony of the loyalty of the Welshman. The British pearls are found in a shell-fish, called by Linnæus myd margaritefera, the pearl muscle, peculiar to stony and rapid rivers.
The port of Conway is a dry harbour, frequented by a few coasting vessels; and the river is navigable up to the village of Trefriw, which is about twelve miles from its mouth. A quay extends along the east side of the town wall. The principal inns are the Castle and the Newborough Arms.
The castle, built in 1284, under the eye of Edward the First, by the architect, it is supposed, whom he employed in the erection of Caernarvon, is very justly regarded as one of the most beautiful fortresses in a country distinguished for the splendour and magnificence of its military structures. Though more extensive and better preserved, it somewhat resembles the castle of Falaise, in Normandy. Its base, however, is less wooded, and there is no brawling streamlet leaping, as there, from rock to rock, at its foot; but instead, a broad, majestic river, and a creek full at high water, swoop round two of its sides. The other two face the town. Within the walls are two spacious courts; and the external line of the fortifications contains eight lofty towers, each with a slender turret, singularly graceful and elegant in form, springing from its summit.
The great hall on the right measures 130 feet long and 30 broad, and is lighted by six lancet-shaped windows, opening out upon the creek, and three pointed windows, of exquisite tracery, looking towards the ample court. Eight Gothic arches, four of which remain entire, supported the roof of this magnificent apartment. A lofty Norman arched window at each end, and two broad carved fire-places, completed the architectural decorations and appearances of the hall. The spacious hall was the scene of the Christmas revelries to which Edward and his queen invited the English nobility and their high-spirited dames, while the monarch was forging the chain that was for ever to enslave the prostrate Principality. The walls, on all sides, are covered with a green drapery of luxuriant ivy, and a meadow of grass lies in the open area of the courts. The warder’s duty is supplied by a whole tribe of crows, whose solemn parley is heard the instant a stranger’s foot approaches the domain they have usurped; and the ivied walls are nearly alive with blackbirds, and birds of all colour, whose notes resound for the live-long day throughout these otherwise deserted ruins. Two entrances, both contrived for security, led into the fortress; one by winding narrow stairs, up a steep rock, from the Conway, and terminating in a small advanced work before one of the castle-gates, covered by two round towers—the other towards the town, protected by similar works, with the addition of a drawbridge over a broad moat.
Notwithstanding its grandeur and importance, this castle makes no great figure in history. Soon after its erection, the royal founder was besieged in it by the Welsh, and the garrison nearly reduced to an unconditional surrender by famine. Finally, however, they were extricated from their perilous situation by the arrival of a fleet with reinforcements and provisions. In 1399, Richard the Second, then in Ireland, commanded the troops, raised in his behalf against the haughty Bolingbroke, to assemble at Conway, and their numbers were considerable; but the vacillation and feebleness of purpose of that monarch induced many of them to abandon him on his arrival; yet the remainder was still sufficient to have made head against the usurper, had not the king, who feared to fight his own battles, basely abandoned his followers, and rushed blindly into the snare laid for him by his enemies. During the civil wars, Conway Castle was at first held by Archbishop Williams for the king; but the warlike churchman, being superseded by the fiery Rupert in the command of North Wales, went over in dudgeon to the republican party, and personally assisted the gallant General Mytton in the reduction of the castle. While the republic flourished, this noble fortress was suffered to retain all its ancient grandeur undiminished; but on the restoration, a grant having been made of it, by the Stuart, to the Earl of Conway, its new possessor ordered his agent to remove the timber, iron, lead, and other valuable materials, and send them to Ireland, ostensibly for his master’s service, though it is generally supposed they were intended for his own use. A suitable fate attended this desecration of one of the finest structures of antiquity, the vessels which conveyed the materials being wrecked, and the whole of the property entirely lost.
This ancient castle is the fictitious scene of the drama of the Castle Spectre, and of The Bard of Gray.
The suspension bridge, by Mr. Telford, is constructed on the same principle as that of the Menai, though on a smaller scale, and presents an appearance singularly elegant, lying at the foot of the antique castle, and surrounded by scenery of the most picturesque description. It is 320 feet in length between the supporting towers, and 18 feet above high-water mark. The chains on the western side pass upwards of 50 feet under the castle, and are fastened in the granite foundations on which it is built. On the farther side they are bolted into an insular rock, which rises in the bed of the river, and forms the strait through which the gushing waters pass on their way to the sea.
The piers of the bridge, and the toll-house at the western extremity, are built in strict keeping with the architecture of the castle. An embankment, formed of hard clay, faced with solid masonry of stone, and stretching from the insular rock to the western shore of the county of Denbigh, a length of 671 yards, with a breadth of 30 feet, and an extreme elevation of 54 feet, exhibits one of the finest and firmest chaussées in the world.
The church, though ancient, contains scarcely anything worthy of notice, except the following inscription, engraved on a stone in the nave of the building, which, though found in Pennant and other tourists, is so curious as to deserve repetition: “Here lyeth the body of Nicholas Hookes, of Convey, gentleman, (who was the forty-first child of his father, Wm. Hookes Esq. by Alice, his wife,) the father of twenty-seven children, who died the 27th day of March, 1637.” In the market-place is an old building called Plâs Mawr, which was erected more than two centuries ago. It is deserving the notice of the antiquarian. The town is surrounded by a very thick wall, strengthened by twenty-four towers, most of which remain in tolerable preservation.
Miss Costello seems to have been thoroughly enraptured with Conway, of which she says, “I think no description, however enthusiastic, can do justice to one of the most romantic and interesting spots that exists perhaps in Europe. Although the modern bridge, which carries the road across the river to the castle walls, looks, as it is of course, of a very different date from the antique structure, yet there is something so singular, so beautiful, and so aërial in a suspension bridge, that it can scarcely be thought out of character with the Moorish-looking towers and turrets to which it leads, which are as light and graceful as itself, in spite of their immense strength and power. With all the legends of supernatural buildings with which Wales abounds, it would not be difficult for the imagination to conceive that the Genii threw these delicate chains over the wide space that divides the castle from the opposite rocks, and thus obtained a triumph over the giant who kept the fortress. Both near and at a distance it has a beautiful effect, and is even more graceful than the surprising work over the Menai Straits.
“The castle, although on the shore of the broad river, which is here, at high water, half a mile wide, stands on a lofty rock, which forms the strong foundation of the fabric, and defends the town, which must however have been well capable of defence in itself, to judge by the huge walls which surround it, and which are still entire, and the enormous towers placed from distance to distance along their whole extent. The shape of the town is fancifully said to resemble a Welsh harp, to the form of which it really has much affinity; and as there are no suburbs nor a single straggling house beyond the allotted precincts, it is plainly defined and has a peculiarly striking aspect, quite unlike that of any other town I ever saw.
“In all lights and from all points the castle looks well: but the best view of it is perhaps from the opposite shore, where all its towers, and battlements, and minaret turrets, come out in great relief, particularly with a sunset sky behind them, when they stand forth most gorgeously. With the river full of water, and the sun going down red and glowing, as we saw it the first evening we arrived, nothing can be conceived more magnificent than the scene:
“‘Seem’d all on fire that castle proud,’
“with crimson and golden flames issuing from the lofty, dark walls. But when we beheld it in the morning, shining white, with the blue sky for its background, we could not decide at which hour it was most admirable; and again, whether by the light of a brilliant moon the mighty fortress, whose rents and defacements the favouring shade concealed, did not appear after all to the greatest advantage. * * *
“We were so delighted with the extreme beauty of the castle, and the quiet of this simple place, that we remained there ten days, in order to enjoy frequent strolls amongst the ruins, and visit some of the most interesting places near.”
We fully concur in the glowing encomiums which have been passed by the most intelligent tourists on the locality of Conway, which is doubtless one of the most attractive and interesting spots in the Principality.
From Conway, Mr. Bingley, the celebrated author, made an excursion round
Creiddin,
a commot or hundred of Caernarvonshire, situated upon the side of the river opposite to Conway, and forming a considerable promontory into the Irish Sea. After crossing the river, and proceeding along the shore for about half a mile, the first object of attraction is
Diganwy,
or Dinas Gonwy (or the Fort on the Conway), called by the common people, “Y Faer dre,” and by the English, Gannoc. The ruins of the ancient castle are situated on the summit of two small hills, near the shore. At a short distance is a circular watch-tower, said to have been built some time in the latter part of the seventeenth century.
Mr. Bingley next crossed the flat, and under the S.W. side of Llandudno rock, passed the shell of a large mansion, which some centuries ago was a palace belonging to the Bishop of Bangor; thence along the steep and slippery sides of the elevated down of Llandudno, for about two miles to the end of the promontory. Here the rocks are for the most part perpendicular, of amazing height. Many rare plants are found in this district.
About a mile from the N. E. side of the promontory is Llandudno church; and at a short distance is Eglwys Rhôs, celebrated as the last refuge of Maelgwyn Gwynedd, who fled hither to avoid the vâd velen (or yellow fever) which raged over a great part of Europe.
Not far distant is Gloddaeth, one of the seats of the Hon. E. M. Ll. Mostyn, built by his ancestor, Sir Roger Mostyn, Bart. in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The walks of Gloddaeth are remarkably beautiful. The house was famed for its library of ancient manuscripts, chiefly Welsh, which has been removed to Mostyn Hall. At the distance of a mile is Bodysgallen, the seat of Miss Mostyn. It is a place of great antiquity; the situation is commanding, and finely shaded by venerable woods. Archbishop Williams, a native of Conway, who succeeded the illustrious Lord Bacon in the office of Lord High Chancellor of England, died at Gloddaeth, A.D. 1650.
Another excursion made by Mr. Bingley was up the vale of Conway, leading on the road to Llanrwst. Having passed the village of Gyffin, he found the vale of Conway to afford many very interesting prospects. Caer Rhun (the Fort of Rhun) lies at the distance of five miles. It is a charming little village, on the western bank of the river, surrounded with wood. To this site has generally been assigned the ancient Roman Conovium. In the summer of 1801, the late Rev. H. D. Griffith had many apartments cleared, where were discovered several broken vases, dishes, &c. From the road, near the bridge, called Pont Porthlwyd, about eight miles from Conway, high up the mountain on the left, is a waterfall of very considerable height, called in the neighbourhood Rhaiadr Mawr (the great waterfall.) Mr. Bingley ascended along a winding path, which conducted him to the bed of the river, near the station, whence he saw it to the best advantage. The water runs from a pool among the mountains, called Llyn Eigiau. He pronounces this waterfall the grandest and most picturesque of any he had seen in North Wales.
For angling station, see Llanrwst.
CORWEN.
(Merionethshire.)
| Bala | 12 |
| Chester | 33 |
| Denbigh | 20 |
| Holyhead | 67 |
| Llangollen | 10 |
| London | 193 |
| Ruthin | 12 |
| Pentre Voelas | 15 |
Corwen (the White Choir) is a small market-town on the London and Holyhead road, situated at the foot of the Berwyn mountains, on the bank of the Dee. The population (2199) is principally employed in agriculture. There is a good inn here, exhibiting the gigantic features of Owen Glyndwr, the renowned and formidable opponent of Henry the Fourth.
Within the church, under an arch on the north side of the altar, there is a very ancient coffin-lid, in high preservation, bearing the following inscription, “Hic jacet Jorwerth Sulien, vicarius de Corvaen; ora pro eo.” There is also a fine cross fixed in a circular stone to the west of the steeple. The name of Corwen, corrupted from Corvaen, is probably derived from the cross: cor, signifying a circle, and maen, which is changed into vaen when joined with cor, is The Stone or Cross in the Circle.
The house of the celebrated Owen Glyndwr was situated in this parish, but not a vestige of it is now left: the site is marked by a clump of fir trees, on the left of the Llangollen road, about three miles from Corwen. At Rhug, within a mile and a half of the town, stands the elegant seat of Colonel Vaughan.—Rhagatt, the mansion of Edward Lloyd, Esq., is also situated in the parish, and within two miles of the town.
The roads in this district are excellent; the Shrewsbury and Holyhead mail runs through the town. There are also two good lines of road hence to Bala; that by Llandrillo leads through the vale of Edeyrnion, which is one of the most beautiful in Wales, the road very excellent, with scarcely a hill in its course; the other by the Druid, 12 miles, commands a very fine view of Bala lake, and the surrounding hills. There is likewise a very good road, 12 miles, to Ruthin.
Upon the Berwyn mountains, behind the church, is a place called Glyndwr’s Seat, whence is a most charming and extensive prospect, which may be reached without fatigue. The rich and delightful vale of Corwen expands beneath, with the Dee in the centre. Here Glyndwr might view nearly forty square miles of his own land.
Near to Corwen is the site of an ancient British encampment, called Caer Drwyn; it is on the summit of a hill, and protected by a circular wall, about one mile in circumference: and within are the ruins of a circular fort. It is supposed to be one of the chain of posts from Dyserth to Cynwyd, and formed in olden times a stronghold. Owen Gwynedd occupied it in the days of Henry the Second.
The tourist remaining at Corwen, who has any relish for angling, may readily obtain all the necessary tackle in the town, at a low charge, and will find good fishing between Corwen and Llan-St.-Ffraid bridges, two or three miles, and at Llandrillo, about five miles from Corwen.
This district was visited by a most desolating flood, caused by heavy rains, in the summer of 1846.
CRICAETH,
(Caernarvonshire.)
| Beddgelert | 11 |
| Caernarvon | 20 |
| London | 240 |
| Pwllheli | 8 |
Cricaeth, a little borough town, contributory to Caernarvon, with 811 inhabitants, is very irregularly built. Except the remains of its small castle, it contains nothing which can claim the attention of the traveller. This ruin stands on a rising ground, at the end of a long neck of land, jutting into the sea. The entrance into it is between two round towers; the others being all square. Edward the First is said to have founded this castle; and it was once the residence of Howel-y-Fwyall, who captured the king of France at the battle of Poictiers. It is stated that the Welsh warrior struck off the head of the king’s horse with a battle-axe, and then secured the monarch. The event is thus recorded by one of the native bards:—
“Pan roddodd
Y ffrwyn ymhen Brenin Ffrainc.”
The Black Prince made Howel constable of this castle, granting him a guard of eighty yeomen at the royal charge, and a mess of meat to be served up daily before his pole-axe.
The church, dedicated to St. Catherine, is a spacious structure, but in a very neglected state.
From the eminence on which the castle stands, is a beautiful view across Cardigan bay towards Harlech, where is seen its fine old castle, backed by the high and distant mountains of Merionethshire.
DENBIGH.
| Abergele | 13 |
| Chester | 28 |
| Conway | 25 |
| Corwen | 20 |
| Holywell | 14 |
| Llanrwst | 22 |
| London by Chester | 214 |
| — by Shrewsbury | 206 |
| Mold | 16 |
| Ruthin | 8 |
| St. Asaph | 6 |
| Bodfary | 4 |
Denbigh, the capital of the county, is situated on the declivity of a craggy hill, in the vale of Clwyd. This place was originally named by the Welsh Castell Caled-Vryn-yn-Rhôs (the Castle on the Craggy Hill in Rhôs), from the prominent situation of the castle in the ancient territory of that name. By the parliamentary returns of 1841, the population was 3405. The two principal inns are the Bull and the Crown. Denbigh was formerly accounted a place of great importance, while its castle and walls were entire; and, about the middle of the sixteenth century, it was thus celebrated by Churchyard, the poet, in his “Worthies of Wales:”—
Denbigh, now appeare, thy turne is next,
I need no gloss, nor shade, to set thee out;
For if my pen doe follow playnest text,
And passe right way, and goe nothing about,
Thou shalt be knowne, as worthie well thou art,
The noblest soyle that is in any part;
And for thy seate, and castle do compare,
With any one in Wales, whate’er they are.
The town is picturesquely situated on the side of a steep hill, and the noble ruins of the castle on its summit greatly contribute to its venerable appearance. Denbigh consists of three principal, and several smaller streets and lanes, and is well paved and lighted, but only scantily supplied with water, which is brought from several springs, each at some distance from the more respectable portions of the town. This inconvenience is much increased during a continuance of dry weather, at which time the wells occasionally become exhausted, excepting that termed the Goblin Well, situated at the foot of the hill on which the castle is built; this is so copious as to supply a considerable portion of the town, but the labour of carrying the water up the steep ascent is very great. Connected with this spring is a cold bath. The environs abound with beautiful and richly varied scenery. The land in the vicinity is rich, and in a high state of cultivation; and in the neighbourhood are numerous splendid seats and elegant villas, inhabited by opulent families, who have selected Denbigh for their residence on account of the advantages of its situation.
The ancient parochial church, dedicated to St. Marcellus, and now in a very dilapidated condition, is situated in the open valley, at Whitchurch, [102a] about a mile from the town, from which place the rectory was transferred by act of parliament to Denbigh, which was made the head of the parish. In the porch of this church are two monumental brass effigies, in a kneeling posture, of Richard Myddelton, [102b] of Gwaunynog, governor of Denbigh Castle in the reigns of Edward VI., Mary, and Elizabeth; and of his wife Jane, both of whom were here interred. In the body of the building there is an ill-executed mural monument to the memory of the learned Welsh antiquary, Humphrey Llwyd, of Foxhall, near Denbigh, who is represented as kneeling beneath a range of small arches, and in Spanish costume. There is also a large altar-tomb to the memory of Sir John Salusbury and his lady, the former of whom died in 1578. A neat mural monument in the western wall has been erected, by the Gwyneddigion Society in London, to the memory of Thomas Edwards, of Nant, commonly called Twm o’r Nant, the celebrated “Cambrian Shakspere,” who died on the 3rd of April, 1810, at the age of 71, and was interred in the churchyard.
All the parochial duties are now performed at the chapel of St. Hilary, within the walls of the castle, with the exception of funerals, which still take place at Whitchurch, there being no cemetery attached to the former. The inhabitants, early in 1838, realized a handsome subscription to erect a new church, so as to be more convenient, in a contiguous part of Denbigh parks, the site of which was liberally offered by Captain Mostyn, R.N. The first stone was laid on the coronation-day of our beloved sovereign, Queen Victoria. There are places of worship for Baptists, Independents, Calvinists, and Wesleyan Methodists. The town also contains a free grammar-school for twenty boys; a blue-coat charity school, on the foundation of which are twenty-four hoys; a national school, in which eighty-six boys and one hundred girls are educated.
Denbigh has a good town-hall, a dispensary, a reading room and a Welsh literary society. Its chief manufactories are gloves and shoes; the market is held on Wednesday and Saturday. There is also a branch of the North and South Wales Bank here. Denbigh is the chief of the contributory boroughs that send one member to parliament: the present M.P. is Townshend Mainwaring, Esq., of Marchwiel.
It is a remarkable circumstance that no specific provision for the insane poor has been made in any part of North Wales, although the melancholy records of those afflicted by the loss of reason, prove that the Welsh are no more exempt from that severe visitation than the mixed races known as Anglo-Saxon. This circumstance excited the attention of the philanthropic Mr. Ablett, of Llanbedr, who has most generously presented twenty acres of land, in the immediate vicinity of Denbigh, for the site of the building and grounds of an institution to be called the North Wales Lunatic Asylum, and a subscription amounting to upwards of £6000 has been realized. The estimate for one commensurate to the wants of this part of Wales, is from £12,000 to £15,000, and it is proposed that the rest of the fund shall be contributed by the counties, in whom the management of the institution shall be vested.
The Castle
is situated on the summit of the Caled-Vryn, an isolated limestone rock, rising abruptly to the height of two hundred and forty feet from the western boundary of the Vale of Clwyd, and incloses an area of considerable extent; the principal entrance is on the north, under a lofty and magnificent arch, which is nearly entire, and flanked by two large towers, now in ruins; above it is a niche, in which is a robed figure of the founder, Henry Lacey, Earl of Lincoln, in a sitting posture; the whole of the rooms and towers are in a state of the utmost dilapidation. The citadel is surrounded with walls, a mile and a quarter in circumference, which inclose the whole of the ancient town: the principal entrance is on the north-west, and is defended by two majestic towers, which are nearly entire; from these the walls extend round the brow of the hill, on the most elevated and precipitous parts of which numerous lofty towers have been erected, forming together one of the strongest bulwarks in the kingdom. Within these walls are the ruins of the church or chapel, founded by the Earl of Leicester; and the chapel of St. Hilary, formerly appropriated to the use of the garrison, and now the parochial church.
The walls inclose a considerable area, now covered with grass, in which horses and cattle are depastured. Within the walls of the fortress are numerous cottages, which materially diminish the interest commonly excited by such extensive ruins; and on the south-west front of the castle, and on the boundary wall on this side, are an extensive terrace and bowling-green, commanding one of the richest and most delightful views of the fertile Vale of Clwyd, embracing the whole of the eastern portion of this beautiful and finely varied tract, terminated by the ocean at Llandudno bay, and on the south by the whole range of Clwydian mountains, with their numerous camps and tumuli. On this delightful spot the congress of bards and minstrels, called the grand Eisteddfod, was held on the 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th days of September, 1828: it was honoured by the presence of his royal highness the Duke of Sussex, and most of the nobility and gentry of the surrounding country. The bowling-green, in the midst of the ruins, is well worth a visit; it is laid out with considerable taste.—Within two miles of Denbigh is
Gwaunynog,
which was visited by Dr. Johnson, during his residence with Mrs. Piozzi: the estate was at that time in the possession of his friend, the Rev. Dr. Myddelton. In the hall is still retained an easy chair, in which Dr. Johnson was accustomed to sit. On the grounds, a short distance from the house, in a very retired situation, overhung with trees, is a monument to his memory, bearing the following inscription:—
SAMUEL JOHNSON, LL. D.
OBIT 13 DIE DECEMBRIS,
ANNO DOMINO 1784,
ÆTATIS 75.
And on the other side, on a marble tablet,—“This spot was often dignified by the presence of Samuel Johnson, LL.D., whose moral writings, exactly conformable to the precepts of Christianity, give ardour to virtue, and confidence to truth.” Over a door of a cottage on the estate are the following lines, the composition of the learned lexicographer:—
Around this peaceful cot, his humble shed,
If health, if confidence, if virtue tread,
Though no proud column grace the gaudy door,
Where sculptured elegance parades it o’er;
Nor pomp without, nor pageantry within,
Nor splendid shew, nor ornament is seen;
The swain shall look with pity on the great,
Nor barter quiet for a king’s estate.1768.
Near to this place is the village of Henllan, about two miles from which is Llanefydd, leading to the Aled and Elwy vales.
DINAS MOWDDWY,
(Merionethshire.)
| Bala | 18 |
| Dolgelley | 10 |
| Llangollen | 40 |
| Machynlleth | 13½ |
| Mallwyd | 1½ |
Dinas Mowddwy is an inconsiderable town, in the parish of Mallwyd, pleasantly situated on the shelf of a rock called Craig-y-Ddinas, near the margin of the small river Cerrist, at its conflux with the Dovey, and on the road from Dolgelley to Mallwyd, at the junction of three vales, each of which is inclosed by lofty mountains: it consists chiefly of one street. The principal building is the “Plâs,” or mansion, being the manor house of the lordship of Mowddwy, which from an early period belonged to the Myttons of Halston, but was lately purchased by a Mr. Bird, of Birmingham.
Slates, of an inferior quality, are dug from the adjacent rocks, for the use of the neighbouring country.
DINORWIC (PORT)
Is situate about half way between Bangor and Caernarvon, and is the shipping place for the Llanberis quarries, belonging to T. Assheton Smith, Esq., of Vaenol. Upwards of one hundred tons per day are loaded at the wharf, and the railway by which they are conveyed is an object of considerable interest.
DISERTH,
(Flintshire.)
| Holywell | 9 |
| Rhuddlan | 2½ |
| St. Asaph | 5 |
The church of this village stands in a romantic situation, overshadowed with several large yews. There are some good paintings in the south window, and in the chancel is inscribed, “Sir John Conway, 1636.” The yard contains some singular tomb-stones; two in particular have a semi-circular stone upon their tops: also an ancient cross, adorned with wreaths, and another with some traces of a human figure, now inserted into the situation as a style. The latter is supposed to be the remains of Cross Einion, which was erected on the spot where Einion, son of Risid Flaidd, was slain, at one of the sieges which the castle sustained.
The castle, called sometimes Gerri Castle, (or Castell y Graig,) stands on the summit of a high lime-stone rock, at the distance of half a mile from the village; its remains consist of a few shattered fragments only. In a field a little to the south, is a ruinous building called Siamber Wen, (the White Hall,) said to have been the house of Sir — Pounderling, a valiant knight, who was constable of the castle, and whose tomb is still to be seen in Dinmeirchion church. Cwm church, about a mile distant, is surrounded with hills, and commands a view of the Vale of Clwyd.
From the top of one of the hills that surrounds the village issues a water, forming a beautiful cascade, which rises from a small well, culled Ffynnon-asa, (or St. Asaph’s Well,) in a dingle in Cwm parish. The height of the cascade is 17 yards, concealed between two arches of the rock, behind which it has worn a passage.
DOLGELLEY,
(Merionethshire.)
| Bala | 18 |
| Barmouth | 10 |
| Chester | 57 |
| London | 212 |
| Machynlleth | 16 |
| Maen Twrog | 18 |
| Towyn | 17 |
| Trawsfynedd | 12 |
Dolgelley (the Dale of the Hazel) is the principal market town in Merionethshire, where the assizes are held alternately with Bala. It is situated in a wide and fertile vale, upon the river Wnion, over which is a stone bridge of seven arches, erected in 1638, but thoroughly repaired and enlarged some years ago. The town is surrounded by high and, in many parts, wooded mountains.
There are many well-built houses, including a good range, fronted by shops, called Eldon Row, the property of Sir Robert Vaughan; but in general the houses are erected with such extreme irregularity in regard to each other, as to convey but a mean idea of the projector’s good taste. The principal building is the county hall, situated near the river; it is a neat stone edifice, erected in 1825, at an expense of £3000. The court room is handsomely fitted up with necessary accommodations for the officers of justice. In the hall is a splendid portrait of Sir R. W. Vaughan, Bart. painted by Sir M. A. Shee, P.R.A.
The county gaol, situated at the outskirts of the town, is a semicircular edifice of stone, built in 1811, at an expense of nearly £5000; it includes also the house of correction, and comprises three day rooms, and four airing yards, and will admit of a classification of the prisoners into five divisions. Part of the building in which a parliament was held by Owen Glyndwr, is still standing among a group of old houses, having the post-office in front, near the Ship Inn, and is called Cwrt Plâs yn y Drêv (the town hall court).
The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a neat structure built of lime-stone, in the Grecian style of architecture, having a handsome tower and large nave. There is an ancient monument of an armed knight; he is represented as clad in close mail, wearing a helmet and neck guard, with a sword in his hand and a dog at his feet, and a lion passant gardant on his shield, on which is inscribed, “Hic jacet Mauric, filius Ynyr Vychan.” There is also a handsome monument lately erected to the memory of Baron Richards, who was a native of this parish. In 1836, a neat monument was also erected to the memory of the late Rev. John Jones, A.M. Archdeacon of Merioneth. Service is performed here in the English language, on every alternate Sunday, in the afternoon. The celebrated antiquary, Robert Vaughan, of Hengwrt, was buried in this church.
This place has long been noted for the manufacture of coarse woollen cloth or flannel, called webs, in which a considerable number of persons are at present employed. There are several good inns, the Golden Lion, the Angel, and the Ship, at all of which guides may be obtained to Cader Idris and the waterfalls. There are also three banks here: the old Dolgelley bank, a branch of the North and South Wales, and a branch of the National Provincial.—About three miles from Dolgelley, on the Machynlleth road, is Caerynwch, the seat of Richard Richards, Esq. M.P. for this county.
The town is seen to the greatest advantage at the distance of about two miles, on the Machynlleth road; but, like in other Welsh towns, is only pleasing at a distance. The prospects from a spot called the Bowling-green are singularly fine. The threatening summit of Cader Idris, the northern ascent to which appears nearly perpendicular, lends its mountain sublimity; a train of subordinate inequalities, stretching their rugged eminences along its base. But if the town affords so little to gratify the curiosity of the inquisitive tourist, its neighbourhood abounds with objects of the most interesting character. Sir H. Hoare asserts, that he “knows of no place in the Principality whence so many pleasing and interesting excursions may be made, and where nature bears so rich, varied, and grand an aspect, as at Dolgelley.”
A new road leading from Dolgelley to Towyn was recently opened, by which the very hilly and dangerous route through Llanegryn is entirely avoided. It passes by Penmaen Pool, Abergwynnant (the mansion of Sir H. Bunbury), Garthangharad, Arthog, Ynysfaig, and Henddol, through the village of Llwyngiul, where there is a very comfortable inn, called the Garthangharad Arms. From the bridge by Abergwynnant, a most magnificent view of Cader Idris presents itself; and in going along the sea-coast opposite to Barmouth, there is a delightful view of Cardigan Bay, Bardsey Island, and the Caernarvonshire mountains. The variety, beauty, and extent of prospects on this road are not surpassed in any part of the Principality. The highway from Barmouth ferry comes into this road by Ynysfaig.
The waterfalls in this vicinity are interesting attractions to the tourist: these are Rhaiadr Dû (the Black Cataract); Rhaiadr-y-Mawddach (the Fall of the river Mawddach); Pistyll-y-Cain (the Fall of the Cain). The first is about five, the two latter about eight miles from Dolgelley, and all of them near the high road leading towards Maentwrog. These falls may be classed among the most magnificent and picturesque cataracts of the Principality.
Y Vanner, or Kymmer Abbey,
Stands in its mouldering desolation about a mile and a half from Dolgelley, and half a mile from Llanilltyd, near the banks of the Maw. The ruins may be visited by the pedestrian, in his way to the waterfalls. The abbey was founded in 1198, by Meredith and Griffith, lords of Merioneth. The monks were of the Cistercian order, and the abbey was dedicated to St. Mary. Part only of the church of this monastery is left, and the refectory and abbot’s lodgings are built into an adjoining farm-house.
Within a few hundred yards of the village of Llanilltyd, in this parish, on the right of the road from Dolgelley, stands Hengwrt, the property of Colonel Vaughan, of Rhûg, formerly the residence of Robert Vaughan, Esq. the eminent antiquary, author of British Antiquities Revived and other learned works. The library here contains the largest collection of Welsh MSS. in existence. It was principally from the MSS. in this library that Aneurin Owen, Esq. compiled his able Digest of the Old Welsh Laws.
Nassau Park.
About two miles from Dolgelley, is an ancient seat, formerly belonging to the Nannau family, but now the property and residence of Sir Robert Williames Vaughan, Bart.
The grounds of Nannau are entered under a fine gateway, the house being a mile distant from the entrance to the park; which for picturesque beauty and the calm grandeur of rural scenery, is not surpassed by any domain in the Principality. Some romantic traditions also confer additional interest on this charming scene. In the higher part are the remains of a British post, called Moel Orthrwm (or the Hill of Oppression), having probably been held by some notorious tyrant of the olden time. Here also once stood an immense oak, blasted and hollowed by time, in which, according to popular belief, Owen Glyndwr inhumed the fresh-bleeding corpse of his treacherous cousin, Howel Sele, who had been bribed to make an attempt upon his life, where it remained concealed for forty years. In Pennant’s time, the trunk of this patriarchal tree was twenty-seven feet and a half in circumference; it was in the last stage of decay, and pierced by age into the form of a Gothic arch. Its end is thus described by Sir Richard Colt Hoare: “During a visit to Sir Robert Vaughan, in the summer of the year 1813, this aged tree, mentioned by Mr. Pennant, attracted my notice; and in the morning of the 13th of July, I made a drawing of it, on one of the most sultry days I ever felt; the succeeding night was equally hot, and on the same night this venerable oak fell to the ground.”
The gardens at Nannau are very extensive, and laid out with excellent taste: they contain a number of choice exotics, and an inspection of them proves a source of never-failing gratification to every lover of horticultural pursuits.
Angling Stations.
| Distances from Dolgelley. | Miles. |
| Traws-vynydd, on the Bychan | 12 |
| Llanvachreth | 3½ |
| Hendre Llwyngwr, (S. W.) | 11 |
| Pont Dolgefiliau, on the Mawddach, (N.) | 8 |
| Dol-y-gamedd, on the Wnion | 3½ |
| Llyn Cregenan, (S. W.) | 4 |
| Llyn Gader | 1½ |
| Llyn Geirw, (S. W.) | 5 |
| Tal-y-llyn, Cader Idris | 8 |
FFESTINIOG,
(Merionethshire.)
| Caernarvon | 25 |
| Capel Curig | 20 |
| Bala | 19 |
| Maentwrog | 2½ |
| Tan-y-Bwlch | 2½ |
| Tremadoc | 13 |
Ffestiniog is a small but increasing village, standing on eminence at the head of the beautiful vale of Maentwrog. The population amounts to 1648, principally employed in the slate quarries, about four miles from the village. The church is built in the ancient style of English architecture, and dedicated to St. Michael. A gallery has recently been erected at the west end, containing seventy-two free sittings. There are also several dissenting places of worship, with Sunday schools attached. A national school for the parishes of Ffestiniog and Maentwrog, was opened in 1830, in a neat building erected a short distance from the village on the Maentwrog road. Mrs. Oakeley, of Tan-y-Bwlch, has lately built and endowed a chapel of ease near the quarries. It is intended for the convenience of the inhabitants of the houses that have been built in the vicinity of the quarries, which are upwards of four miles distant from the parish church.
There are two good inns, the Pengwern Arms, and the Newborough Arms; at the former, cars and post horses may be obtained; there is likewise attached to it a very comfortable boarding-house, kept by Miss Owen. There is a branch of the North and South Wales bank here. The roads in this neighbourhood have, of late, been much improved. A rail road it now completed for the conveyance of slates to Port Madoc, a distance of about fourteen miles.
The scenery of Ffestiniog closely resembles that of St. Helena, and particularly Sandy Hook Cove. The vale which gives celebrity to this village has been eulogized by many distinguished travellers. Mr. Pennant calls it the “Tempê of the country.” Mr. Warner observes, “that it comprehends every object that can enrich or diversify a landscape.” Mr. Wyndham affirms, that “it affords as rich studies for the painter, as the neighbourhood of Tivoli or Frascati.” And Lord Lyttelton, who visited the place about the year 1756, is still more lavish in his encomiums. More recent travellers have been equally enthusiastic in their admiration of this pleasant locality.—About half a mile from Ffestiniog are the
Falls of the Cynvael.
One of these is about three hundred yards above, and the other three hundred yards below a rustic stone bridge, three quarters of a mile distant. The upper fall consists of three steep rocks, over which the water foams into a deep black basin, overshadowed by the adjoining rocks. The other is formed by a broad sheet of water, precipitated down a slightly shelving rock, about 40 feet high. After the water has reached the bottom of the deep concavity, it rushes along a narrow rocky chasm, where rolling amid the shaggy rocks, it glistens among the scattered fragments, and falling from slope to slope, gains a smoother bed, and steals among the mazes of the vale. In the pools below these falls, there is excellent fishing, the trout and salmon being very numerous. Between the lower cataract and the bridge is a tall columnar rock, which stands in the bed of the river, called Pulpit Hugh Llwyd Cynvael (or Hugh Lloyd’s Pulpit.)
There are few vales which afford such delightful prospects. Many of the high mountains bounding its sides, are shaded by oaks, and the serpentine Dwyryd steals placidly along the bottom through rich cultivated fields. This river, at the bottom of the valley, receives the tide, and expands into a wide lake-like channel, called Traeth Bychan, where it flows through the sandy estuary of Traeth Bach, and into Cardigan bay, the sea at a distance closing the view.
The village of Maentwrog is delightfully situated near the middle of the vale.—About four miles distant, among the hills, is
Cwm-orddin Lake.
This and several other lakes are notable for the excellent sport they afford for angling. Of these, a gentleman who is fond of this diversion, and who has visited those parts, has kindly furnished us with the following information:—“The fish in Cwm-orddin Lake (says he) rise more eagerly to flies than any I ever saw. The fish are rather small, and not good for the table. The two best stations for angling, are, first, where the boat is kept; second, the head of the lake. Throw among the weeds, fearlessly, as they always come away with a pull.
Llyn Morwynion,
Contains excellent fish, both in size and quality, but they are very shy: it is about two miles from Ffestiniog, near the Capel Curig road.—No boat.
Llyn Maonod,
About two miles and a half from Ffestiniog, contains most excellent trout, far less shy than those of Morwynion. No boat.—There is a small lake just below the summit of Moel Wyn, which may be tried by any one wishing to combine a fine extensive view with sport. No boat.—Llyn Conway is at times difficult of access round its banks, being marshy. No boat.—There are two or three lakes on the right of the road to Bala. My opinion is, that without a boat the angler will do little on a lake. I would recommend, therefore, a very long rod when you must fish from shore. There is good salmon fishing in the river that runs past Maentwrog. In the beginning of June, I found the sand fly excellent for the lakes.”
FLINT,
(Flintshire.)
| Chester | 14 |
| Holywell | 5 |
| London | 200 |
| Mold | 6 |
Flint is a borough, market-town, and sea-port, and a parochial chapelry in the parish of Northop, and is the ancient capital of the county: it contains a population of 2860 inhabitants. Although it cannot be identified with any Roman station mentioned in the Itineraries, it was nevertheless either of Roman or Roman-British origin, as is proved from the circumstance of its even now occupying a rectangular entrenched area, like that of a Roman place of defence, and by the discovery, at various times, both here and in the neighbourhood, of Roman coins, fibulæ, &c., while at the same time it is traditionally related that a very large town existed here at an early period.
The town is situated on the shore of the estuary of the Dee, opposite to Parkgate, to which ferry-boats ply daily from Flint. It consists of four principal streets, crossing each other at right angles; the buildings, however, are very inferior in appearance. The town-hall, and gaol where the county prisoners are kept, are tolerable structures, but the assizes are held at Mold, six miles distant. Close to the town are extensive collieries, in which several hundred men are constantly employed, and 1,500 tons of coal are raised weekly: rail-roads have been constructed to convey the coal to the wharfs, whence it is sent coastwise to Chester, and to various parts of North Wales. The principal exports, in addition to the vast quantity of coal, are the produce of the lead works in the vicinity, consisting of lead in pigs, bars, sheets, and patent pipes; red lead, litharge, and silver.
For the convenience of persons who visit Flint, hot baths have been constructed, and are provided with every requisite accommodation. The Royal Oak and the Ship may be considered inns of the second order. The government of the town was vested in a mayor, the constable of the castle (appointed by letters patent), two bailiffs, a recorder, and twelve capital burgesses, assisted by a mace-bearer, and other officers, elected annually, until the municipal Reform Act superseded the charters. It is one of the contributory boroughs, which, in conjunction with Caergwrle, Caerwys, Overton, Rhuddlan, St. Asaph, Holywell, and Mold, return one member to parliament. There are daily ferry-boats plying between Flint and Chester, at the low rate of six-pence for each passenger.
The Castle.
The remains of this ancient structure stand upon a rock in the marsh at the bottom of the town, and so near the river, that at high water the walls are washed by the tide. It has been a square building, with a tower at each angle, considerable remains of every one of which are yet left. The tower at the south-east corner, which is called the Double Tower, is much larger than the others. In its outward diameter it measures forty feet; it is formed by two concentric walls, each six feet thick, having a gallery eight feet wide included between them, and leaving a circular area of about twenty feet in diameter, into which there was an entry from the gallery by four doors. This appears to have been the keep. The interior of the castle is a square court, containing about an acre of ground. In the curtain on the west side, there are yet left several windows with pointed arches.
Antiquarians are undecided as to the founder of Flint castle, some asserting that it was commenced by Henry the Second, and completed by Edward the First; while others affirm that it was entirely the work of the latter. It was alternately in possession of the Welsh and English princes during the various vicissitudes which distinguished the wars of that period; and in 1399 was the scene of the betrayal of the unfortunate monarch, Richard the Second, by Percy, Earl of Northumberland, into the power of his ambitious rival, Bolingbroke, the “aspiring Lancaster.” Under the insidious pretence that Bolingbroke, who was waiting for the king at Flint, desired only to have his property restored, and that the kingdom should have a parliament, Northumberland met Richard at Conway, where he had gone after his return from Ireland; and they were journeying together, when, among the recesses of the mountains near Penmaen Rhôs, the latter observed a band of soldiers. Alarmed for his safety, and now fearful of the snare that was laid for him, he attempted to return; but Percy, springing forward, caught his horse’s bridle, and forcibly directed his course. They dined together at Rhuddlan castle, and arrived on the same evening at Flint. The next day, “after dinner, (says Stowe) the Duke of Lancaster entered the castle all armed, his basinet excepted. King Richard came down to meet him; and the duke, as soon as he saw the king, fell down on his knees, and coming near unto him, he kneeled a second time with his hat in his hand; and the king then put off his hoode, and spoke first: ‘Fair cousin of Lancaster, you are right welcome.’ The duke, bowing low to the ground, answered, ‘My lord, I am come before you sent for me; the reason why I shall shew you. The common fame among your people is such, that ye have for the space of twenty or two-and-twenty years, ruled them very rigorously; but, if it please our lord, I will help you to govern better!’ The duke then, with a high sharp voice, bade bring forth the king’s horses, and two little nagges, not worth fourtie franks, were brought forthe: the king was set on the one, and the Earl of Salisbury on the other; and thus the duke brought them from Flint to Chester;” whence, after a night’s rest, they were marched to London, and made a public entry into the metropolis, under those moving circumstances which are so exquisitely narrated by Shakspere in his tragedy of Richard the Second.
In the civil wars, Flint castle was garrisoned for the king, by Sir Roger Mostyn, and was defended with great bravery, but was at last surrendered to General Mytton. In August, 1646, it was ordered to be dismantled, with Hawarden and several other fortresses, and has since fallen into utter decay, though its ruins present towards the sea a somewhat imposing appearance.
GRESFORD,
(Denbighshire.)
| Chester | 8 |
| Wrexham | 3 |
Gresford is a beautiful village, situated on the western side of the road from Wrexham to Chester, near the head of a romantic valley, which opens into the Vale Royal of Cheshire, a tract of country remarkable for the richness of its soil, the beauty of its scenery, and the diversified views which it presents. The little vale of Gresford was one of the most lovely in the Principality; but the fiery dragons of the Shrewsbury and Chester Railway have now invaded its tranquil retreats, and marred the picturesque charms of this locality.
On one of the richly wooded eminences overlooking the vale, stands Gresford Church, a truly noble and admirable specimen of ecclesiastical architecture, in the late perpendicular style, which was probably built during the latter part of the reign of Henry the Seventh. No tourist, who has the least taste for ecclesiology, should neglect to examine this sacred edifice, which exhibits in its construction a combination of beauties that never fail to command the eulogiums of the intelligent and discriminating. Its appearance is also much enhanced by the scenery around it, and those only who are familiar with the vicinity can feel how admirably the church harmonises with the country. Its melodious peal of bells was once reckoned among the seven wonders of North Wales; but wonders since those days have become more plentiful, and some people say the peal is actually deteriorated. In the churchyard is a remarkable yew tree, 30 feet in girth, which botanists say is more than 2000 years old. This tree attracts even as much notice as the church itself.
Deeply sheltered in the vale, is Gresford Lodge, the elegant seat of Mrs. W. Egerton. Upper Gwersyllt Hall, on the banks of the Alyn, was the residence of Colonel Robinson, a distinguished partizan of the unfortunate Charles the First, who was interred in Gresford church in 1680. Lower Gwersyllt was occupied by another zealous adherent of that prince, Jefferey Shakerley.
From the top of Marford Hill, on the road towards Chester, is a most magnificent and extensive view of the vale of Cheshire, the “old city,” and the river Dee. In the immediate vicinity of the village, is an eminence called the Rofts, formerly a British camp, treble-trenched, having at one corner a lofty mount or keep.
Angling station.—The river Alyn.
HANMER,
(Flintshire.)
| Ellesmere | 5 |
| Wrexham | 10 |
This village, which forms a detached portion of Flintshire, takes its name from a spacious mere or lake, in form resembling a human hand, on one side of which the village is pleasantly situated. It stands on the road betwixt Wrexham and Whitchurch. The lake occupies a space of 73 acres, on one side of which stands the family mansion of Sir John Hanmer, and on the other the seat of Lord Kenyon. In the church is a handsome monument, erected in 1806, to the memory of Lord Chief Justice Kenyon, who was born at Gredington, in the vicinity. There is another monument in honour of Sir Thomas Hanmer, who was Speaker of the House of Commons in the reign of Queen Anne.
Hanmer is distinguished by the Welsh, as being the birthplace of their celebrated bard, Davydd ab Edmund, who at an Eisteddvod, held at Caermarthen, in 1451, won the bardic chair, and through his superior eloquence obtained the sanction of that congress to his twenty-four canons of Welsh poetry, by which the “science” has, in a great measure, been governed ever since.
HARLECH,
(Merionethshire.)
| Barmouth | 10 |
| London | 229 |
| Maen-Twrog | 10 |
| Penmorfa, across sands | 12 |
| Tan-y-Bwlch | 10 |
| Tremadoc, across sands | 10 |
| Do. through Tan-y-Bwlch | 20 |
Harlech, or Harddlech, is an inconsiderable place, situated upon a barren rock, containing four or five hundred inhabitants; it is the county town of Merionethshire, and all elections for a representative in parliament take place here. Its name is derived from its situation, originally called Twr Bronwen, and afterwards Caer Collwyn, from Collwyn ap Tagno, who resided there about 877. Harlech castle stands on a rocky eminence, close by the marshy tract between the hills and Cardigan bay, bearing it is said a strong resemblance to the Turkish castle of Belgrade. It consists of one large square building, each side measuring about 70 yards, having a round tower at the several corners, crowned with turrets now nearly defaced. The walls, now clad with ivy, are lofty and of great thickness, from the summit of which a most splendid and sublime prospect may be commanded, including a vast extent of marine and mountain scenery.
According to ancient history, this castle was built by Maelgwyn Gwynedd, Prince of North Wales, about 530, and Edward I. founded the present fortress upon the ruins of the old building. It was completed in 1283. In 1404, this castle, with that of Aberystwyth, was seized by Owen Glyndwr, during his contest with Henry IV. They were both retaken, about four years afterwards, by an army which the king despatched into Wales. Margaret of Anjou, the haughty queen of Henry VI., after the king’s defeat at Northampton, in 1460, fled from Coventry, and found an asylum in this fortress.
In the civil wars of Charles I. Harlech castle was the last in North Wales which held out for the king. Near this place is a curious antique monument, called Coeten Arthur, or King Arthur’s Quoit, which is a large flat stone, lying horizontally, supported by two others. The supporters are about twenty inches square, two of them are eight feet high, and the incumbent stone, inclining to an oval, is eleven feet in length. Col. Vaughan, of Rhûg, is constable of the castle.
In the winter of 1694, this neighbourhood was greatly alarmed by a kind of fiery exhalation, or mephitic vapour, which arose from a sandy marshy tract of land, called Morfa Bychan (the little marsh), across the channel, eight miles towards Harlech, and injured much of the country, by poisoning the grass in such a manner as to kill the cattle, and to set fire to hay and corn ricks for near a mile from the coast. It is represented to have had the appearance of a weak blue flame, which by any noise, such as the firing of guns, or the sounding of a horn, was easily extinguished. All the damage was done invariably in the night, and in the course of the winter not less than sixteen hay ricks and two barns, one filled with corn and the other with hay, were burnt by it. It did not appear to affect anything else, and the men could go into it without receiving any injury. It was observed at different times during eight months. The occasion of this singular phenomenon has never been satisfactorily accounted for.
In 1692, a golden torque, which is now placed amongst the admirable collection of Welsh antiquities at Mostyn, was discovered near Harlech. It is in the form of a wreathed bar of gold, highly polished, twisted, and flexible. It is hooked at both ends, and about four feet long.
From Harlech an excursion may be made to Cwm Bychan (the little hollow), about four miles distant.—One mile from the town may be seen a circle of stones, thirty yards in diameter, probably one of those druidic circles in which were held the gorseddau, or bardic meetings. Cwm Bychan is a grassy dell, about half a mile in length, surrounded by desolate scenery. On the right, at its entrance, is the small pool called Llyn y Cym Bychan, from the edge of which Carreg y Saeth (the Rock of the Arrow), towers in dreary blackness; yet the landscape extends hence in great magnificence. Descending into the hollow, past an ancient mansion, and ascending on the other side, a deep mountain hollow occurs, called Bwlch Tyddiad. Passing upon this rocky cleft beyond the higher mountains, a fine prospect of all the country eastward suddenly opens, bounded by the majestic Cader Idris, the two Arrenigs, and other ranges of commanding grandeur.
Out of the track, two miles south of Harlech, is a cromlech, in a farm called Gwern Einion; and on the side of the hill, where the road passes, in the recesses of a wood, is a considerable cataract. Between the cromlech and the town of Harlech is another druidic circle.
At the ebb of the tide, part of a long stone wall, which runs out into the sea from Machran, a point of land a few miles south of Harlech, may be seen. It extends in a W.S.W. direction for nearly twenty miles, and is called Sarn Badrig, or Sarn Badrwyg (the Shipwrecking Causeway), an astonishing work, being throughout 24 feet thick. Sarn y Bwlch runs from a point N.W. of Harlech, and is supposed to meet the end of this. The space between is said to have formed, several centuries ago, a habitable hundred of Merionethshire, called Cantref Gwaelod (the Lowland Hundred). Those walls, as it is supposed, were built to keep out the sea.
The principal inn is the Blue Lion, where post chaises may be had, and a guide procured to conduct the tourist to the many objects of attraction in the neighbourhood. The parish church having become very dilapidated, a new one, more conveniently situated, has been built, on a site given by the late Sir R. W. Vaughan, of Nannau. It was consecrated in 1841; the expense of its erection being defrayed by subscriptions, aided by grants from the Incorporated Society for building and repairing Churches, and from the Bangor Diocesan Church Building Society. The service is occasionally performed in the English language.
Angling Stations.
Distance fromHarlech. | Miles. |
Llanvihangel, on the Dwyryd | 5 |
Llanbedr, on the Bychan | 3 |
Lakes.—Llyn y Vedw | near theDwyryd. |
Llyn Eidaw | |
Llyn Glyn | |
Llyn y Cym Bychan | 5 |
Llyn Trewyn. |
HAWARDEN,
(Flintshire.)
| Chester | 7 |
| Flint | 8 |
| Holywell | 11 |
| Northop | 5 |
This prosperous little town, pronounced Harden, consists of one continuous street, more than half a mile long, and has a neat and cleanly appearance. The British name was Pennardd Halawg, or Pennardd-y-Lâg, corrupted probably from Pen-y-Lwch (the head-land above the lake), the surrounding marshes having been once covered by the sea. It has a weekly market and the population of the parish is rated at somewhat above 6000 inhabitants. The Glynne Arms is the principal inn where the traveller may be comfortably accommodated.
Extensive collieries are worked in this parish, and there are also several large brick and tile works, besides numerous potteries for the manufacture of the coarser kind of earthenware. An extensive foundry is carried on at Hawarden by Messrs. Williams & Co., and has become celebrated for the manufacture of steam-engines, iron steam-boats, and other works of mechanical science which modern enterprise has brought into active requisition. The river Dee, or Chester channel, passes within about two miles of the town, and thus affords every facility of water conveyance.
The living is a “peculiar,” in the patronage of Sir S. R. Glynne, and of which the Rev. H. Glynne is the rector. Its value, according to the “Liber Ecelesiasticus,” is £2844. The church, dedicated to St. Deiniol, is an ancient and spacious structure, with a square embattled tower. It was thoroughly repaired in 1764, and the chancel was almost entirely rebuilt in 1817, at an expense of £1400, jointly defrayed by the Hon. and Rev. George Neville Grenville, then rector, the late Lord Amesbury, and the inhabitants. Various restorations and improvements have also been effected by the present rector.
Hawarden has likewise the advantage of an endowed grammar school. The parish is very extensive, and besides the church just noticed, contains three others; all in admirable condition, and remarkable for the exemplary order and efficiency with which the services of our holy liturgy are solemnized. There is one at Broughton, another at Buckley, which has lately been repaired and beautified; and a third at Pen-y-mynydd, which is an elegant and perfect specimen of architecture. It was built at the cost of Sir S. R. Glynne, Bart. M.P., and was consecrated in 1843. With each of these churches, commodious schools are connected; and indeed, the ecclesiastical establishments, within the peculiar of Hawarden, are worthy of all praise. Hawarden Park, one of the most charming and picturesque of the many noble domains scattered through the Principality, is remarkable for the extreme verdure and softness of its grass, the majestic stateliness of its trees, the calm solitudes of its glens, and the combined loveliness and sublimity of its landscape scenery. It is also a spot of much historical interest; as within its territory, stand the ivy-clad ruins of an ancient castle, which, in past ages, was a fortress of great importance.
Little more than fragments of the former towers and keep remain; indeed, a considerable portion of the ruin was itself obscured by heaps of rubbish, till the late Sir John Glynne had them removed, and the foundations laid open to view. It was constructed in a pentagonal form; on one side was a spacious gateway, and on the other a kind of barbican. At one angle was situated the keep or citadel, a circular tower still nearly entire, and which forms one of the most picturesque objects that strike the eye on first approaching ‘its ancient solitary reign.’ Other portions consist of the relics of the vast mouldering walls—of massive donjons,—and, in one part, of a long flight of steps, at the bottom of which was a door and a draw-bridge, crossing a ravine to another division of the castle, embracing, most probably, the prison, thus fearfully secured.
On all sides it was surrounded by deep chasms and fosses, and, from its extensive plan and broad foundations, it has the appearance of having been erected at different periods—of having been sometimes defaced and at others restored, according to the vicissitudes and fortunes of war.
Dating soon after the Conquest, it came into possession of Roger Fitzvalerine, a son of one of the adventurers who followed the Norman Conqueror. It was subsequently held, on the tenure of seneschalship, by the family of Monthault, of the Earls of Chester, and finally annexed by Henry the Third to the crown. After this it came into the possession of Prince Llywelyn, and was stormed by his brother David. On the subjection of the country, Hawarden was granted to the house of Salisbury, and afterwards to that of Stanley. From Thomas, Earl of Derby, it descended to his second wife Margaret, Countess of Richmond, and mother of Henry the Seventh. In 1495, that monarch is stated to have honoured the castle with a visit, to enjoy the pleasures of the chase; but his real motive was to ingratiate himself with the Earl her husband, after the ungrateful act of executing his brother Sir William Stanley, to whose assistance he was mainly indebted for the crown. The estates continued in the family till the execution of James Earl of Derby, in 1651; and, not long after, they were purchased by Sergeant Glynne, from the Commissioners of Sequestration.
It was at Hawarden that the ambitious Earl of Leicester, after securing the persons of the King and his son Edward, entered into that fatal league with Llywelyn which compelled Henry to surrender the sovereignty of Wales, with the homage of its baronial suffrages, which were transferred to the Welsh prince. In the last struggle for independence, it was surprised by David, his brother, on the night of Palm Sunday, and the entire garrison put to the sword. This prince had acted with equal perfidy towards Edward the First, his benefactor, and towards Llywelyn.
From the now broken towers of Hawarden, there is a vast and most magnificent prospect, embracing a wide sweep of country, from the Vale Royal of Cheshire to the estuaries of the Dee and the Mersey.
The modern mansion of Hawarden Park, the seat of Sir S. R. Glynne, Bart. M.P., Lord Lieutenant of Flintshire, is a stately structure, erected by Sir John Glynne in 1752. In 1809 it received some magnificent additions, and then assumed the form of a castellated edifice, with antique-looking windows and turrets. The pleasure-grounds are beautiful and extensive.
To the west of Hawarden church, in a field near to the turnpike-road, is an artificial mount of earth, which Mr. Pennant conjectures to have been a small camp. Tradition says, it was raised as a fortification, to prevent Henry the Second from advancing by this pass into Wales, in 1157. The prospects therefrom are delightfully grand, comprehending a view of Chester and the entire course of the silvery Dee from the old city to the Irish channel.—About two miles from Hawarden stands
Buckley Mountain.
which has now become the thriving seat of a large population engaged in the collieries; and in the manufacture of earthenware, draining tiles, and fire-bricks; all of which are held in high repute, and consequently command an extensive trade.
Ewloe Castle
is distant from Hawarden about two miles, and stands a quarter of a mile to the right from the turnpike-road leading thence to Northop. This interesting and lonely ruin does not discover itself by lofty towers, but will require some trouble to find it, as it is concealed on the east, west, and south, by the adjoining grounds, and embosomed in trees to the north, without any visible way of approach, save up the streamlet, which passes at its foot, and discharges itself into the estuary of the Dee, about two miles and a half below. Pennant designates this structure a small fortress, but from its present appearance it seems better calculated for the retirement or resort of a gang of desperate marauders, than for any military purpose. The towers are now finely overgrown with ivy, and command the view of three wooded glens, forming a gloomy solitude. The time of its erection is involved in some obscurity.—In the woods, near this place, called to this day,
Coed Ewloe,
part of the flower of the army detached by Henry the Second, in 1157, from his camp on Saltney, was surprised and defeated by David and Conan, the sons of Owen Gwynedd, sent by their father with a strong party from his camp near Basingwerk. They suffered the enemy to march along the straits of the country, till their forces were entangled in the depth of the woods and the steeps of the narrow valleys. The attack was fierce, sudden, and unexpected: the slaughter dreadful; and the pursuit carried even to Henry’s encampment. This proved to the English but a prelude to a second defeat. The king, with intent to repair the disgrace, marched forward with his whole army; and at Coleshill, near Flint, suffered himself to be entrapped into the same dilemma which his detachment had before experienced. His forces were again defeated, and several of his chiefs, with numbers of his men, slain. Henry de Essex, hereditary standard-bearer, and a man of approved valour, was seized with a panic, and throwing down the standard, cried out the king was killed. The route would have been general, if the king had not valiantly rallied his forces, and repulsed the Welsh; but in the end he thought it prudent to withdraw his army, and encamp in a more secure situation. He afterwards attempted to cut off the retreat of Owen Gwynedd by marching along the shore, and placing himself between him and the mountains; but the sagacious prince, penetrating his views, retired to a plain near St. Asaph, still called Cil Owen (or Owen’s Retreat), and thence to a strong post, called Brin-y-Pin, defended by great ramparts and ditches.
HOLT,
(Denbighshire.)
| Chester | 8 |
| Wrexham | 6 |
A small village, on the west bank of the Dee, was once a market town, and a place of some consequence; yet, even in its decayed and delapidated state, it has for its governor a mayor and two bailiffs.—The two villages of Holt and Farndon are separated only by the river, and communicate by a bridge of ten arches, built in 1345. The Dee at this place divides England from Wales; Farndon being in Cheshire, and Holt in Denbighshire.
HOLYHEAD,
(Anglesea.)
| Amlwch | 20 |
| Bangor | 24 |
| Beaumaris | 27 |
| Chester | 86 |
| Dublin | 60 |
| London, by Chester | 266 |
This place, which is of very remote antiquity, derives its Welsh name, Caer Gybi, implying the fortress or city of Cybi (pronounced Kubby), from its situation on a small island at the western extremity of Anglesea, called Ynys Cybi, for many years the residence of a British saint of that name, who is said to have been the son of Solomon Duke of Cornwall. Its population in 1841, was 3869 inhabitants.
Owing to the very extensive intercourse which now subsists between Great Britain and Ireland, the town has, within the last few years, rapidly increased in extent and improved in appearance. From its advantageous situation, it has been selected as the principal station of the post-office packets, for conveying the mails to Dublin; and among other improvements, a new line of road has been constructed under the walls of the town, along the margin of the traeth, or sandy estuary, which forms the harbour, extending more than a mile along an artificial embankment, from the entrance of the town to the commencement of the pier. This pier extends from the small island, called Ynys Halen, or Salt Island, in an east south-easterly direction into the sea, and is 360 yards in length. It is connected with the main land by a handsome iron bridge of one arch, dividing the centre, and each part turning on a swivel to afford a passage on either side. Beyond this bridge are the engineer’s house, the custom house, the harbour-master’s offices, and the depôt for the post-office stores: further on is a grand triumphal arch, built by subscription of the gentry of the county of Anglesey, to commemorate the circumstance of the royal squadron having anchored in Holyhead bay, on the night of the 6th of August, 1821, and the landing of his majesty George IV. on the following day. The grand terminus of the Chester and Holyhead railway will be on the site of the present pier, and it has been resolved by government to make a packet station and harbour of refuge, equal to the wants of the whole Irish channel, and upon a most extensive and magnificent scale, from designs made by the celebrated engineer, Mr. Rendel. When the railway and harbour improvements are completed, the transit between London and Dublin will be accomplished in thirteen hours.
The triumphal arch, which was opened in August, 1824, is a chaste and elegant structure of Mona marble, brought from the Red-wharf Quarry, and consists of a central carriage way, separated on each side by two handsome pillars of the Doric order from a footway, enclosed by a wall ornamented at the extremities with antæ of correspondent character, the whole twenty feet high, and supporting a boldly projecting cornice, surmounted by three diminishing tiers of masonry, forming a platform. Over the carriage-way, on each side, is a large entablature, respectively bearing inscriptions in Welsh and Latin, commemorative of the event.
The lighthouse is built entirely of hewn stone, and without any other timber than what was necessary for the door cases and window frames. It consists of three stories, the ceilings of which are groined, and the gloves are of smooth stone: its base is six feet above high water mark, and is protected from the sea by a stone glacis. The tower, which is circular, is thirty-three feet in height to the gallery, and the lantern, which is ten feet higher, is lighted with twenty brilliant lights of oil gas, having reflectors plated with silver, and displaying a strong white light, which, being at an elevation of fifty feet above the level of the sea, affords a safe guide to vessels approaching the harbour. The whole of these works were completed at an expense of about £130,000, and a graving dock was constructed at an additional expense of £12,000.
The post-office establishment at this place consists of six steam packets of 230 tons burden, which sail regularly from this port and Kingstown, keeping up a constant intercourse between the two countries.
No manufactures are carried on at this place: several attempts have been made at considerable expense to explore the mineral treasures with which the parish was supposed to abound, but nothing of importance has yet been discovered, except veins of Mona marble, called “verd antique,” which have been worked to some extent. The trade consists chiefly in the building of coasting vessels, the repairing of all the post office steam packets belonging to the several ports of England and Wales, and the making of ropes and cables. The market is on Saturday. The North and South Wales bank has a branch here.
The church, dedicated to St. Cybi, is a spacious cruciform structure, principally in the decorated style of English architecture.
The promontory called the Head, by which the harbour is sheltered from the westerly winds, presents a singular aspect, its sides towards the sea forming in some parts immense perpendicular precipices, while in others they are worn, by the continued action of the waves, into caverns of magnificent and romantic appearance. Of these, one called the “parliament house,” is accessible only by boats at half ebb ride, and consists of a series of receding arches, supported by massive and lofty pillars of rock, displaying an interior of picturesque beauty and sublime grandeur. Some of these caverns afford shelter for gulls, razor-bills, herons, cormorants, and other birds; and the loftiest crags are frequented by the peregrine falcon. The eggs of these birds are in great request as a delicacy for the table; and some of the hardiest inhabitants are employed in the hazardous task of procuring them for sale.
There are several ancient military forts in the neighbourhood, whose appearance indicates them to be of Roman origin. At a small distance westerly is a large hill, having several natural and artificial curiosities. Within about 200 yards of the top are the remains of a strong wall, which seem to have belonged, as well as the churchyard walls, to a place of defence against the frequent incursions of the Irish. To the W. S. W. of the top, and nearly under it, in a situation awfully romantic, are the remains of a chapel. From the top of this mountain there is a most extensive view, comprehending the Isle of Man, the hill of Howth on the Irish coast, and parts of the Highlands of Scotland.
Many gold Roman coins of the time of later emperors were found a few years ago in Holyhead mountain; and in 1835, in removing some old walls at Ty Mawr (Great House), the property of Lord Stanley, of Alderley, were found several spear heads, axes, and rings, of bronze, with red amber blades, which from the form and the nature of the materials, appear to be of Phœnician origin. At Trefigreeth, another farm belonging to the Stanley family, situated within a quarter of a mile of the London and Holyhead road, about one mile from the town, is a small but perfect cromlech. A larger one, in great preservation, may be seen at Presadwaedd, about four miles from Holyhead. And at Tywyn-y-Capel, about two miles from Holyhead, on the old post road, and close to the sea, is a very singular mound, on the top of which, a few years ago, were the remains of a small chapel. The mound is artificial, being formed of sea sand. It is filled with graves. The coffins are formed of rude flat stones, and are placed in rows above each other. They contain the remains of persons of both sexes. The sea every year makes encroachments upon it, laying open the graves and strewing the shore with bones. Tradition is silent as to the origin of this singular place of burial. It is worth the investigation of the antiquary.
The South Stack Light-house is connected with the harbour, and materially contributes to facilitate its access. It is erected on the summit of an isolated rock, three or four miles westward from Holyhead, and separated from the main land by a chasm 90 feet in width. This splendid structure was raised in the year 1808. The elevation of the summit of the rock on which it is erected, is 140 feet above the level of the sea at high water mark; the height of the tower, from the base to the gallery, is 60 feet; and the lantern is 12 feet high from the gallery; making the total elevation of the light 212 feet above high water mark. The light is produced by twenty-one brilliant lamps, with powerful reflectors placed on a revolving triangular frame, displaying a full-faced light every two minutes, which, in clear weather, is distinctly visible at a distance of ten leagues. Latterly there has been an addition of three red lights placed at the rock, which are more distinctly visible in foggy weather than the light-house lights. The rough sea caused by the strong tides, about the head, rendered the communication by boat very precarious. In order to obviate the danger, a passage was contrived by means of two ropes thrown across the gulph, along which the individual was drawn in a box or cradle, by the assistance of pulleys affixed at each end. This plan was superseded by a bridge of ropes, which was used some years after, though always considered unsafe, on account of the constant wear of the ropes. In 1827, a modern suspension chain bridge was thrown over the sound, the span of which is 110 feet, the chains being firmly bolted in the rock on each side, and carried over two massive stone pillars erected for the purpose. The chain supports a platform of timber five feet wide, and 70 feet above high water mark. The bridge is attained by descending the Holyhead mountain in a zigzag direction, by a flight of 380 steps.
On the rocks south of the harbour of Holyhead, and commanding the town, an obelisk has been erected by public subscription to the memory of the late Captain Skinner, formerly master of one of the post-office packets on this station, who lost his life by being washed overboard in 1833. He was very generally respected, and had been a commander on this station for many years.
To the N. E. is the Isle of Skerries, on which there is also a light-house.
There are several good inns at Holyhead, the principal of which is the Eagle and Child Hotel.
For romantic wildness and stern grandeur of aspect, no place can surpass this portion of the iron-bound coast of Anglesea.
HOLYWELL,
(Flintshire.)
| Chester | 18 |
| Denbigh | 14 |
| Flint | 5 |
| London | 201 |
| Mold | 10 |
| Northop | 6 |
| Rhuddlan | 11 |
| St. Asaph | 10 |
Holywell, called by the Welsh Trêffynnon, (or the Town of the Well,) is an improving and pleasantly-situated place, on the great road from Chester to Holyhead; the town and parish containing a population of 10,834, with a crowded market on the Friday.
But before going into any topographical particulars, we must introduce our readers to the legend of the miraculous well of the famous St. Winefred, as put into an agreeable narrative by Miss Costello:—
We stopped at a remarkably good inn, and lost no time in going down the steep hill at the bottom of which the pretty little chapel over the fine well is situated. Nothing can be more secluded and pleasing than its position by the side of the handsome church with its low churchyard, all placed in a deep hollow, so removed from the upper town, that the bells summoning to prayer cannot be heard above, and a ringer is accustomed to go about the town with the large bell slung round his shoulders, and a cushion on his knee, against which the bell beats as he walks, and proclaims his holy errand. This old custom, doubtless of considerable antiquity, is still kept up, and we are glad that, being there on a Sunday, we were able to see the perambulating belfry.
Margaret, the mother of Henry VII., erected the graceful chapel whose fretted roof is the boast of Holywell, but one had existed long before her time; for the miracle of St. Winefred happened, according to the monks of the Basingwerk, to whom the world is indebted for the legend, early in the seventh century, and is thus told:
Winefred, a beautiful and devout virgin, lived in the reign of an imaginary king, and was of noble birth, and the niece of a man whose sanctity had already made him conspicuous, and who was known as the good Beuno. A prince of the country, whose name was Caradoc, saw the fair damsel, and loved her; but his passion was not so pure as her goodness ought to have inspired. Even then there was a chapel at the foot of the hill, where, while Beuno was at the altar praying with certain of the inhabitants of the neighbouring town, amongst whom were the parents of Winefred, to the astonishment of all, a head rolled and bounded into the sacred inclosure, and stopped at the altar. Beuno stooped to raise up the head, and observed that where it had rested, instead of the pool of blood which was there but an instant before, a stream of crystal water had sprung up. His amazement was increased when he found that the beautiful features and golden hair of the head he gazed upon were those of his beloved niece. He hastened from the spot, and mounting the hill, discovered her mutilated body lying prostrate, and the cruel prince Caradoc flying with a drawn sword in his hand. The truth became clear to him at once. Winefred had fled from the importunities of the prince who, pursuing, had wreaked his vengeance on her by cutting off her head. The saint, for such Beuno afterwards became, immediately with devout prayers joined the severed head to the body, when, to the awe and delight of all beholders, the virgin arose, as if from sleep, uninjured and lovely as ever, nor was there a trace left of the accident but a slight white mark, like a thread, round her throat. Beuno cursed the caitif prince, “who melted away as wax melts before the fire.” Winefred lived fifteen years after this event; she founded a monastery at Gwytherin in Denbighshire, of which she became the abbess, and died there.
Before the event of her decapitation, it seems the valley was particularly dry, so much so as to bear the name of Sychnant, [130] from that circumstance; therefore it was most fortunate that the head of the pursued damsel should have rolled where it did. Not only did the spring attest the miracle, but the very moss and stones around have properties that enforce the belief. The moss emits an odoriferous smell in testimony of the saint’s purity, and the stones at the bottom are stained with her blood, and keep their tint to this day. It is true that some naturalists, who had not the same motive for keeping the world in ignorance as the monks of Basingwerk had, have proclaimed that the moss is only a sweet-scented plant called Jungermannia asplenoides, and that the crimson stains on the stones are produced by a vegetable named Byssus jolithus, by no means uncommon, thus characterised by Linnæus: “the Byssus easily betrays itself by giving the stones, to which it adheres, an appearance of being smeared with blood. If rubbed, the plant yields a smell like violets.”
Fortunately, all the botanical and other students of the days of St. Winefred were monks, who knew well how to keep their own counsel, and turn their knowledge to their own advantage.
Our fair tourist proceeds to narrate some of the “miracles and lying wonders,” which are said to have occurred during the removal of the devout virgin’s corpse from Gwytherin to Shrewsbury; and then comes a conclusion, which we suppose the devotees of the saint of the Holy Well will regard as nothing less than “flat blasphemy.” “After all this,” observes Miss Costello, “it is mortifying to find that the blessed St. Winefred never existed at all, nor was more than an Undine, a thought, a name, a fairy of a fountain! for Gwenvrewy, as she is called in Welsh, signifies the white hill water, or the white gushing stream, meaning the overflowing well which Nature formed without a miracle.”
As our province is rather to describe the well itself, than to bandy arguments about the lady whose name it bears, we may briefly state that it is one of the most remarkable springs of water in the kingdom.
The well is an oblong square, about twelve feet by seven. The water passes into a small square court through an arch, under which the Roman Catholics used to swim as an act of penance. The quantity of water thrown up is not less than eighty-four hogsheads every minute. This water has never been known to freeze, and scarcely ever varies in quantity, either in drought, or after the greatest rains. Though this stream has little more than a mile to run before it arrives at the sea, a great number of mills, forges, and other works are kept in motion by it, three of which are placed abreast.
The sacred well is the object of many pilgrimages, even in this day, and several modern miracles are related of the influence of its waters. Pope Martin the fifth especially enjoined such pilgrimages, and the monks of Basingwerk were furnished with pardons and indulgences to sell to the devotees. James the Second visited the well in 1686; and Leopold, king of the Belgians, in 1819.
Apart from all superstitious notions, its waters doubtless possess many sanative properties.
The authoress of the new romance of “Llywelyn’s Heir,” says with reference to this charmed place: “We would recommend any strangers to the spot to visit it, should an opportunity offer, and judge with their own eyes of the lightness and beauty of the tall pointed arches and the flying buttresses that adorn the exterior; and to decide whether the interior is not even more worthy of notice. The well, into which the miraculous stream pours forth its astounding body of water, is polygonal; the columns that rise above it are singularly beautiful, and after many serpentine wanderings, meet and form a canopy worthy of the water-king, who doubtless frequently holds there his court. The legend of the saint, and beautiful carvings in stone are scattered around; but they appear to have been placed there to do honour to the house of Stanley, and not to the saint—by no means an astonishing circumstance, for the saint had been long dead, and was probably tired of working miracles; and the Stanleys were living, and willing to bestow munificent gifts, of which this building and the chapel above it remain memorials to this day.”
The church, dedicated to St. Winefred, and rebuilt in 1769, is a rather spacious structure of Grecian architecture, 68 feet long by 56 wide; consisting of a nave with north and south aisles, with a chancel, in which is a window embellished with modern stained glass. It has also two large galleries over the aisles, and the whole is calculated to contain about 3,000 persons. Remains of the ancient edifice are still seen in the remarkably plain pillars on each side of the nave. It contains several monuments and tablets, and amongst them one by Westmacott, erected to the memory of Paul Panton, Esq.
Under the chancel are the vaults of the Mostyns of Talacre, the Pennants of Downing, and the Pantons of Bagillt; in the chancel is a neat cenotaph, in memory of Mary, mother of the late Edward Pennant, Esq. On the wall, at the end of the same aisle, is a flat stone with twelve quarterings, copied from those over the chimney-piece in the dining-room at Mostyn.
In rebuilding the church, the headless figure of a priest was found in his sacerdotal habit, and with a chalice in his hand. He is supposed to have been Thomas, second son of Thomas ap David, abbot of Basingwerk. This headless trunk is often exhibited to the wondering as the image of the blessed St. Winefred! The service is alternately English and Welsh, and at night there are English lectures. Holywell contains several meeting-houses for the various denominations of dissenters. A new Roman Catholic chapel has lately been erected.
The environs, which are studded with numerous handsome residences and gentlemen’s seats, abound with richly diversified scenery; and from the higher grounds are obtained extensive and varied prospects over the surrounding country, which is rich in picturesque beauty. The air is salubrious, and the opportunities of cold and sea-bathing, render it not only a pleasant place of permanent residence, but also of occasional resort for invalids, for whose comfort every accommodation is provided, with the benefit of good medical advice, and the advantage of numerous pleasant rides and walks in the immediate neighbourhood.—There are several good inns in the town, the principal of which are, the White Horse, King’s Arms, King’s Head, and the Red Lion.
For many ages, the copious stream of St. Winefred served only to turn a corn-mill belonging to Basingwerk abbey, and it was not till the year 1777 that Holywell began to emerge from obscurity, when Mr. Smalley introduced the cotton manufacture, and erected a mill on a principle similar to that of one built at Cromford, by Sir Richard Arkwright. Soon after this, Mr. Smalley was joined by an opulent company from Lancashire, and erected, in 1783, a larger mill, now called the upper mill, which worked 12,218 spindles; the same company, in 1787, built the lower mill, adapted to the working 7492 spindles, and in 1791, the crescent mill, in which 8286 spindles were kept in motion. These mills were applied to the spinning of cotton thread, of which 26,098lb was produced on an avenge weekly, furnishing employment to nearly one thousand persons. A great part of that trade has now left Holywell, and the buildings are applied to other branches of manufacture.
There are, upon the same stream, several extensive copper mills, for rolling sheet copper, the manufacture of every description of copper vessels, copper bolts used in ship-building, and copper cylinders: there is also a mill for drawing copper wire, &c. Besides these, there are a large iron foundry, a paper mill, and zinc works.
The district immediately around Holywell, is pre-eminently distinguished for the richness of its mineral treasures, and particularly for its mines of lead and calamine, which appear to have been worked from the earliest period, and continue still to form an almost inexhaustible source of wealth.
Basingwerk Abbey,
(Or Maes-glâs), called also Greenfield Monastery, is beautifully situated in a meadow, about a mile east of Holywell among rich meadows, commanding a fine view of the Cheshire shore, with a profusion of spreading sycamores, and groves of ancient trees on all sides. Its time-worn and crumbling ruins are, from some points of view, highly picturesque.
The little at present left of the abbey is scarcely sufficient to indicate its former extent. The church, which stood on the east side, is totally destroyed.
Near to the abbey, a castle formerly reared its towers, but of this scarcely a vestige remains visible. Close to this spot also runs the celebrated Watt’s Dyke, which terminates at the Dee below. It is clearly traced hence through Northop, Hope, Wrexham, and the grounds of Wynnstay, to Maesbury, near Oswestry, where it ends.—About three miles north-west of Holywell, is
Downing,
The seat of Viscount Fielding, who married, in June 1846, Miss Pennant, the heiress to the estate. The present house was built, probably on the site of an older mansion, in 1627, but has lately undergone great improvements. This hall was the birth-place and residence of the celebrated author, Mr. Thomas Pennant, whose antiquarian and topographical researches form an important contribution to the historical records of the country. The walks are agreeable and diversified, particularly in the immediate vicinity of the mansion, which is approached by a rural path, winding through a beautiful and well-wooded dingle. Much taste is displayed in the landscape gardening and horticultural arrangements of this little paradise.—About a mile and a half north-west of Downing, on the summit of a lofty hill, stands
Mynydd-y-Garreg,
An ancient circular building of great height, in form not much unlike a windmill. It is a pharos, or Roman light-house, erected by that people to conduct navigators to and from the Deva. It is tolerably entire, and built of lime-stone, bedded in hard mortar. The antiquary will not begrudge a walk to examine this ancient relique bequeathed to us by the conquerors of the world.—Two miles north-west of Downing, lies the ancient structure of
Mostyn Hall,
The property and residence of the Hon. Edward Mostyn Lloyd Mostyn, M.P., nephew of the late Sir Thomas Mostyn, and heir apparent of Lord Mostyn, of Pengwern. The house is approached by a magnificent gateway, called Porth Mawr, erected at the termination of a venerable avenue of forest trees, leading to one vestibule of the mansion, which stands in a small but beautiful and well-wooded park, about half a mile from the estuary of the Dee. The mansion is worth the attention of the tourist and antiquary. It is of the Elizabethan age, though built upon the site of a former house erected in the reign of Henry the Sixth. In the spacious hall are several specimens of armour and implements of warfare previous to the introduction of fire-arms. The rooms are literally crowded with family portraits, by the old masters, the principal of which are Sir Roger and Lady Mostyn. There are several fine portraits of Charles the First, including an original by Vandyke. In the dining-room, the sideboard is formed of one piece of plank, quite a curiosity; it is nearly six feet wide, and twelve feet long; and is hewn, not sawed. The tapestry parlour is beautiful. The mansion is noted for the maintenance of English hospitality after the manner of “the olden time.”
During the time that Henry, Earl of Richmond, was secretly conspiring the overthrow of the house of York, he passed concealed from place to place, in order to form an interest among the Welsh, who favoured his cause on account of their respect to his grandfather, Owen Tudor, their countryman. While he was at Mostyn, a party attached to Richard the Third arrived there to apprehend him. He was then about to dine, but had just time to leap out of a back window, and make his escape through a hole, which to this day is called the King’s Window. Richard ap Howel, then Lord of Mostyn, joined Henry at the battle of Bosworth: and after the victory, received from the King, in token of gratitude for his preservation, the belt and sword he wore on that day.
There are many curious objects of antiquity at Mostyn, including a golden torque found at Harlech; a silver harp, in the possession of the family since 1568; the Mostyn pedigree; and the largest private collection of Welsh manuscripts in the Principality. The Gloddaeth library and manuscripts, as well as similar literary stores from other mansions of this family, have been brought here; for the reception of which, the hon. proprietor has erected a library worthy of the collection.
To the treasures of Mostyn has also been added a splendid candelabrum valued at one thousand guineas, presented by the political friends of the Hon. Mr. Mostyn, who, on the day of the presentation, October 31, 1843, entertained the subscribers, amounting to several hundreds, in a manner worthy of the best days of the ancient, princely, loyal, and hospitable house of Mostyn.
LLANASA,
(Flintshire.)
| Holywell | 6½ |
| Rhuddlan | 6 |
| St. Asaph | 10 |
The village of Llanasa is situated in a pleasant valley at the northern extremity of the county, on the south-western shore of the estuary of the Dee. The church has two east windows, in the more ancient of which is some fine stained glass, brought from Basingwerk abbey. The church-yard contains some curious tomb-stones.—In the neighbourhood are several genteel residences, and about two miles from the village is
Talacre,
the seat of Sir Pyers Mostyn, a branch of the family of the Mostyns of Mostyn. The old house was built in the time of James the First; but when the late baronet came into possession of the estate, it was razed to the ground for the purpose of building another mansion on its site. The first stone of the new house was laid by Sir Edward Mostyn, on the 31st day of July, 1824. When the shell was completed, part of it was burnt down by an accidental fire on the night of the 11th of September, 1827; but it was soon rebuilt, and finished in a magnificent style. The house is an old English mansion, of truly handsome appearance, erected after a design and under the superintendence of Mr. T. Jones, architect, of Chester.—Within a short distance of Llanasa, and situated on an eminence near the confluence of the Dee with the Irish Sea, is
Gyrn,
built by the late John Douglas, Esq. It is a building in the castellated style of English architecture, having several lofty and elegant towers, from the summit of which the view is very extensive, commanding the surrounding hills, and those of Yorkshire, Derbyshire, and Staffordshire; the Isle of Man, Beeston Castle, Chester, and Liverpool, are also discernible; and, in the opposite direction, a small part of the Snowdonian chain may be observed.—About a mile from Llanasa, is
Golden Grove,
the admired residence of Edward Morgan, Esq., erected in 1578; but it has been considerably improved and enlarged within the last forty years. The house occupies a sheltered situation among the hills, whence the prospect is extensive and pleasing.
LLANBERIS,
(Caernarvonshire.)
| Beddgelert | 12 |
| Caernarvon | 10 |
| Capel Curig | 10 |
| Dolbadarn | 2 |
This village, situated on the road between Caernarvon and Capel Curig, derives its name from the dedication of its church to St. Peris, a British, or, as some affirm, a Roman saint, who had been a cardinal of Rome, and is said to have resided in this celebrated spot with Padarn, an anchorite about the sixth century, who had a cell or small chapel, in a meadow between Dolbadarn castle, and old Dolbadarn inn, now called the “Snowdonia.”
The church, situated in a deeply sequestered glen about half a mile above the upper lake, is a small, low structure, of the most primitive character.
Near the church is the well of St. Peris, formerly famed for its miraculous efficacy in the cure of diseases, and therefore a place of resort with pilgrims and devotees.
The parish of Llanberis is very large in extent, and is divided into two districts or townships, viz. Nant-ucha’, alias Nant-Peris, and Nant-isa’, alias Nant-Padarn, and comprises several of the loftiest mountains in the Principality, besides numerous natural objects worthy the research of the curious.
The village of Llanberis is romantic in the extreme. It lies in a narrow grassy glen, surrounded by immense rocks, whose cloud-capped summits are seldom visible to the inhabitants below. All the parts immediately surrounding the village were formerly covered with wood; but, except some saplings from the old roots, there are at present very few trees left. In the memory of persons lately living, there were great woods of oak in several parts of these mountains. In the tenth century the whole country must have been nearly covered with wood, for one of the laws of Howel Dda (Howel the Good) directs that “whoever cleared away timber from any land, even without the consent of the owner, he should, for five years, have a right to the land so cleared; and after that time it should again revert to the owner.”
The Pass of Llanberis presents a scene of wild grandeur and fearful sublimity, of the most impressive and majestic character.
Amidst the vast ranges of these British Alps, are two beautiful lakes. The upper one at Llanberis, called also Llyn Peris, is about a mile in length, and nearly half of one in breadth; the depth is said, in places, to be one hundred and forty yards. The other, called Llyn Padarn, is about a mile and a half long, but so narrow as to assume rather the appearance of a river than a lake. Between these, a communication is formed by a stream, and out of the lower issues the river Seiont, which, after flowing in an irregular diffused manner, discharges itself into the Menai at Caernarvon. At the foot of the lower lake is a rural and picturesque stone bridge, leading to a most perfect Roman station, called Dinas Dinorwic, partly natural and partly artificial. It is in fine preservation.
Dolbadarn,
(Or Padarn’s Meadow), so called from Padarn, a British saint of obscure note. Since the opening of the new line of road from Caernarvon to Capel Curig, Llanberis has become the principal resort of parties visiting Snowdon. In addition to the spacious and comfortable inn at Dolbadarn, a new and more commodious house, the Royal Victoria Hotel, has been erected at the expense of T. A. Smith, Esq., near Dolbadarn castle, for the accommodation of the increased number of visitors whom this truly interesting district draws together in the summer months. The hotel is in a most eligible situation, at the junction of the two lakes, and within a few hundred yards of Dolbadarn castle, about two miles from the village of Llanberis, on the road from Caernarvon. Every facility for ascending Snowdon is here provided.
The castle, standing near the junction of the two lakes of Llanberis, is the only one that remains in the narrow passes of North Wales. As it was impossible for an enemy to climb the chain of mountains, which are a guard to Caernarvonshire and Anglesea, and as there were five narrow passes, the British secured each with a castle: this was the central one. Owen Gôch was here confined upwards of twenty years, for having joined in a rebellion against his brother Llywelyn ap Gruffydd, the last prince of Wales. It seems to have been long in ruins, for in Leland’s time there was only part of a tower left. The key of the castle is kept at the Victoria Hotel, and may be had by tourists on application.
The view hence is remarkably splendid, embracing the lakes, which extend nearly three miles, the various interesting objects by which they are surrounded, and the immense chains of rugged mountains that bound the vale. The view from the lake is also finely picturesque.
About half a mile south of the castle, at the end of a deep glen, there is a tremendous cataract, called
Ceunant Mawr,
(The Waterfall of the Great Chasm.) It is upwards of sixty feet in height, and is formed by the mountain torrent from Cwm Brwynog, which rushes through a cleft in the rock above, and after coming in a direct line, suddenly takes a turn with the broad stratum of the rock, and thus descends aslant, with a thundering noise, into the deep black pool below.
On the declivity of the mountain, and nearly opposite Dolbadarn castle, on the eastern side of the lake, are extensive slate quarries, the property of Thomas Assheton Smith, Esq., situated high among the rocks. The mode of conveying the slates down the almost precipitous descent, to the margin of the lake, was formerly singularly awkward, and apparently very dangerous. The carts, each conveying about one ton of slates in winter, and two in summer, were drawn down a serpentine path by one horse in front, and one hooked on behind, to counteract the rapidity of motion which otherwise would endanger the whole. From the lake the slates were carted in great quantities to the Menai, whence they were shipped to Ireland, Liverpool, America, &c. To avoid this great labour and danger, a railroad has been made from the quarries down to the shipping place at Velin Heli, on the Menai, a distance of about nine miles. By this road, the slates are conveyed down, at an average, it is said, of about 100 tons daily throughout the year. At this place of activity, generally designated by the name of “Dinorwic Slate Quarry,” above a thousand men are usually employed.
On the opposite side of the lake, and nearer to Caernarvon, at a place called Glyn Rhonwy, is another quarry, the property of Lord Newborough, worked by from 150 to 200 men; and the slates are conveyed by carts to Caernarvon.
This little valley can also boast of its mineral treasures. A valuable copper mine is situated on the side of the upper lake, about half a mile from the village. A stream of water, for the use of the mine, is conveyed along the mountain on each side, and over the road, just at the head of a lake, by means of a wooden conduit, supported by piers. The ore obtained is, in general, what is termed rich, on an average worth from £20 to £25 per ton; but the value consequently varies with the price of copper.
About two miles above Llanberis church, on the Capel Curig road, there is an immense stone, that has once been precipitated from above, called
The Cromlech. [140]
This stone is of some thousand tons weight, and many times larger than the celebrated mass of rock in Barrowdale, called Bowdar Stone. It lies in a place called Ynys Hettws (Hetty’s Island); and two of its sides meeting at an angle with the ground, it was once used as the habitation of an old woman, who in summer resided in the vale to feed and milk her cows. The enclosures are yet nearly entire, and are sometimes used as a sheepfold.
Gorphwysfa,
(The Resting Place), the top of the ascent between Llanberis and Capel Curig, four miles from the former, overlooks the glorious prospects before noticed. It also commands a view into the mountain pass which joins Nant Hwynan and the vale of Capel Curig. The vale of Llanberis is narrow and almost straight, nearly filled with two lakes, connected by a canal called Bala ’r Ddeulyn (the Junction of the two Lakes), celebrated (previous to the opening of the copper mines) for the abundance of the red and golden char. These fish are still caught in the lakes, though not so plentifully as formerly; the char is taken about the middle of September.
Angling Stations.
| The upper and lower lakes | (Bad sport). |
| Llyn Cwm Dwythog | 2 miles from Dolbadarn inn. |
| Llyn Llydan | 5 — on Snowdon. |
| Glaslyn | on the west of ditto. |
LLANDEGAI,
(Caernarvonshire.)
| Aber | 3½ |
| Bangor | 2 |
| Conway | 10 |
| Port Penrhyn | 2 |
Near to the grand entrance to Penrhyn Park, are the much admired church and little village of Llandegai, hidden from the immediate view by a high wall, extending some yards in the front. The parish is more than fifteen miles in length, from the shore of the Menai straits far into the mountainous regions of Snowdon, including a wide district, abounding with almost every species of mineral treasure. The scenery of the neighbourhood is beautifully picturesque and impressively grand, comprehending on one hand a vast amphitheatre of mountains, and on the other a fine view of the Menai Straits.
The church is one of the neatest in the Principality, in the form of a cross, having a tower in the centre. Its style is Gothic, and it is supposed to have been erected about the reign of Edward the Third. Within the church is a mural monument to the memory of John Williams, lord keeper of the great seal in the reign of James the First, who died at Gloddaeth, and was interred in this church in 1650. He is represented in his episcopal dress, kneeling at the altar. There is also an elegant marble monument erected to the memory of the late Lord and Lady Penrhyn, executed by Westmacott. On one side it is supported by a female peasant, deploring the loss of the deceased, and on the other by a quarry-man, holding an iron bar and a slate knife, earnestly reading the inscription which commemorates his benefactor. Beneath are smaller figures, the first representing a boy feeding his goats on the mountains, emblematical of the state of the country when his lordship commenced his improvements; the second, two boys working in a slate quarry, emblematical of industry; the third is, one boy teaching another to read the Bible, emblematical of religious education; and the fourth, three boys with sickles in a wheat field, denoting plenty. Lord Penrhyn died in 1806.
The following is a translation of the somewhat curious Latin inscription on the monumental record of the renowned Archbishop and Lord Chancellor Williams:—“Sojourner, read, and in these few words, particularly observe that which you would not expect to find in this obscure chapel. Here lies buried John Williams, the most renowned of prelates, descended by his father’s lineage from the Williams’s of Cochwillan, and by his mother’s from the Griffiths of Penrhyn, whose great parts and eminence in all kinds of learning raised him first to the deanery of Sarum, and afterwards advanced him to that of Westminster by the favour of King James. At one and the same time he was the most intimate favourite of and privy councillor to that great king, lord keeper of the great seal of England, and bishop of the see of Lincoln, whom Charles the First honoured with the archiepiscopal mitre of York. He was thoroughly versed in all sciences—a treasury of nine languages—the very soul of pure and undefiled theology—an oracle of political tact—the very acmé and ornament of wisdom, whether sacred, canonical, civil, or municipal. His conversation was engagingly sweet—his memory more tenacious than human—a repository of all species of history—expended in magnificent edifices the sum of £20,000,—an exemplary pattern of liberality, munificence, generosity, hospitality, and compassion for the poor. In those lamentable times which followed, being worn out with the things which he saw and heard, when, by reason of the fury of the rebels, he could no longer serve his king nor his country, having lived 68 years, on the 25th of March, which was his birthday, with strong faith in Christ, and steadfast allegiance to his king, he most devotedly resigned his soul to God, dying of a quinsy. It matters little that so small a monument, placed in this obscure spot, preserves the memory of so great a man, since years and ages shall never cease to celebrate his virtues. He died 25th March, A.D. 1650.
“Pass on, traveller, it is enough, your curiosity is gratified.”
The ancient family residence, Cochwillan, is within a short distance of the church, and remains in much the same condition as when, “broken by the storms of state,” the good prelate here sought his final resting-place on earth.
LLANDUDNO,
(Caernarvonshire.)
| Abergele | 16 |
| Conway | 5 |
Llandudno old church is situated near the promontory of Ormeshead, which forms the eastern boundary of the entrance into Beaumaris Bar. It has the appearance from the sea of a dilapidated cow-house. A new church has been erected on the side of the promontory, where the inhabitants principally reside. There are here several very valuable and extensive copper mines. The cliffs towards the sea are lofty and abrupt; and the whole scene wild and romantic in the extreme.
On the centre of the mountain is a rocking stone, called Crŷd Tudno (or the Cradle of St. Tudno); and on an eminence are the ruins of a large square building, of which the walls, apparently constructed without mortar, lie scattered in various directions. On the highest part of the promontory, and near the Great Ormeshead, a signal staff has been erected, communicating with Llysfaen on the east, and Puffin Island on the west, forming thereby a post of communication between Liverpool and Holyhead. These hills and the neighbouring woods of Gloddaeth abound in rare and curious plants. The rock just above the village of Llandudno is the only habitation in Britain of the cotoneaster vulgaris, which grows here abundantly.
The parish of Llandudno contains six hundred and sixty-two inhabitants.
LLANEDWEN,
(Anglesea.)
| Llanidan | 2 |
| Moel-y-Don | 3 |
Llanedwen is a small village where Henry Rowlands, the learned author of Mona Antiqua Restaurata, was interred. He was instituted to the vicarage of this place in October, 1696, and died 1723. He lies under a black slab of Anglesea marble, in the south part of the church.
LLANELIAN,
(Anglesea.)
| Amlwch | 8 |
| Beaumaris | 20 |
This is a small village on the eastern coast of Anglesea. The church, dedicated to St. Elian, is supposed to have been founded by the patron saint about 540; and adjoining to it is a small chapel, of very ancient foundation, measuring in its interior twelve feet by fifteen, called Myfyr, the confessional. A curious closet of wood, of an hexagonal form, called St. Elian’s closet, is yet left in the east wall, and is supposed to have served both the office of a communion table, and as a chest to contain the vestments and other utensils belonging to the chapel. Near to the door is placed Cyff Elian (Elian’s Chest), or poor-box. Superstitions devotees out of health send their offerings to the saint, which are put through a hole into the box.
At Point Lynas, near this place, a light-house of considerable dimensions has been erected.
LLANERCH-Y-MEDD,
(Anglesea.)
| Amlwch | 6 |
| Beaumaris | 17 |
| Holyhead | 16 |
| London | 263 |
Llanerch-y-medd is a considerable town, with a market on Wednesday, deriving its importance chiefly from its proximity to the Parys mountain, on the northern side of Anglesea. Here are the leading fairs for Anglesea oxen, and the south country dealers attend to make their purchases for the Kent and Sussex pastures. An establishment has been opened in this town for the manufacture of snuff, in imitation of the celebrated Lundy Foot, of Dublin. There is a small but comfortable inn here.
Within one mile of the town is Llwydiaeth, the hospitable mansion of W. P. Lloyd, Esq. At a small distance is a rocking stone, held in great sanctity by the bards as a druidical remain.
LLANERVUL,
(Montgomeryshire.)
| Dolgelley | 24 |
| Llanfair | 5 |
| Machynlleth | 25 |
| Mallwydd | 13 |
| Newtown | 14 |
| Welshpool | 12 |
This interesting little village is pleasantly situated on the banks of the river Banwy, and at the lower extremity of a narrow vale of about seven miles in length. The Cross Foxes Inn affords good accommodation. The situation of the village, being on the turnpike-road from Shrewsbury to Machynlleth and Dolgelley, causes it to be much enlivened in the summer season, by coaches passing through, conveying travellers to the bathing places at Aberystwyth and Barmouth.
The parish, extending nearly eight miles in length, and about three in breadth, is divided into six townships, comprising a population of about 1000, chiefly employed in agriculture. The lands are but partially enclosed and cultivated, the hilly parts affording only pasturage for sheep, young cattle, and Welsh ponies, during the summer; but the soil of the lower grounds is tolerably fertile, and when properly cultivated, is capable of producing grain of every kind. Within this parish, on the mountains, are several lakes of considerable extent and depth, and some of them containing great abundance of fish, chiefly trout and eels.
The most ancient manor-house in these parts is Neuadd-wen (the White-hall). This was formerly the seat of Meredydd ab Cynan, brother of Gruffydd ab Cynan, Prince of North Wales, who served the Princes of Powys, and was termed Lord of Rhiw-hiriaeth, Coedtalog, and Neuadd-wen. Some genealogists say that he was Meredydd ab Cynvyn, and brother to Bleddyn ab Cynvyn, Prince of Powys. The estate of Neuadd-wen was divided and subdivided according to the custom of gavel kind, until the time of Evan ab Owen, the last of the line of Meredydd ab Cynan, whose two daughters were married, the one to the Llwydiarth family, the other to that of Newtown Hall. In a heap of rubbish, at the back of the present farm-house of Nauadd-wen, were found pieces of free stone, with mouldings, which appeared to be the ruins of an arched window. The building seemed to have been Gothic, according to the taste of the eleventh and twelfth century. It is probable that the name of Neuadd-wen was given to the new structure, for there is a tradition that its former appellation was Llŷs Wgan, which is corrobarated by the fact, that a rivulet near the house is still called Nant Wgan.
Adjoining Neuadd-wen lies the capital farm of Llysyn, formerly the estate of Ieuan ab Bedo Gwyn, descendant of a cadet branch of the family of Neuadd-wen. This estate was afterwards purchased by the Herberts, and made the residence of some branch of that family, ancestors to the present Earl of Powys. The name of Llysyn seems to be a contraction of Llŷs-dyddyn (the Court-farm). Probably, the Princes of Powys had here a court of judicature.
This parish contains the vestiges of several tumuli, forts, and ramparts, such as those at Moel-y-ddolwen, Gardden, Rhôs-y-gallt, &c.; but the most singular vestige of antiquity here is that of the Roman causeway, called Sarn-Sws, or Sarn-Swsen, which leads from the old Roman station of Caer-Sws, near Llanidloes, to Chester; or as some will have it, from Caerllëon-ar-Wysg, in Monmouthshire, to Caerllëon-ar-Ddyfr-dwy, or Chester on the Dee. This road enters the parish of Llanervul on the hills of the Drum, and thence descends through the farms of Cae’r-Bacha, Cynniwyll, &c., and crosses the river Banwy below Neuadd-wen, and then up Craig-y-gô, whence it proceeds through the parish of Llanvihangel; and Dr. Worthington says it might be traced through the parish of Llanrhaiadr-yn-Mochnant, at Street-Vawr, near Coed-y-Clawdd, over Rhôs-y-brithdir, to Pen-y-Street, and thence to Llamiwrch, &c. In some places the pavement may be found a little below the surface.
The church of Llanervul is dedicated to Urval Santes, a female saint, whose pedigree is not known: some suppose that the ancient tomb-stone in the church-yard was erected to her memory, but the inscription by no means corroborates that supposition.
Mrs. Priscilla Forster, a descendant of the family of the Herberts of Llysyn, bequeathed £300 for the instruction of the poor children of the parish: this sum was invested in the purchase of a farm near the village, now considered worth £35 per annum, which is appropriated agreeably to the intentions of the benevolent testatrix.
LLANFAIR, [146]
(Anglesea.)
| Llangefni | 5 |
| Pentraeth | 2½ |
This village is celebrated as the birth-place of Goronwy Owen, of whom a Welsh author has said that “he was the greatest genius either of this age, or that ever appeared in our country; and perhaps few other countries can boast his equal for universal knowledge.” He was born in 1722, had the rudiments of his education at the grammar-school of Bangor, whence, in 1741, he went to Oxford. Four years afterwards he received holy orders at Bangor, and became curate to the Bishop at Llanfair. He successively held the curacy of Donnington, near Shrewsbury, and Walton, near Liverpool: but having only a slender income, and being disappointed in his hopes of preferment, he emigrated to America. The taste, manners, and morals of the Virginians were offensive and disgusting to this son of sorrow. He lost by death his wife and children, all but one boy; and he himself, while but comparatively a young man, sank to the grave under the pressure of accumulated misfortunes. To a perfect acquaintance with the Latin and Greek languages, he added a knowledge of the Hebrew, Chaldee, Arabic, and Syriac. His Latin odes have been universally admired for the purity of their language, and for the elegance of their expression. As a Welsh poet he ranks superior to all since the days of Dafydd ap Gwilym. Those parts of his works which have been printed are considered as perfect models of Welsh poetry. It has been lately stated that a grandson of the bard is now living in the United States, and is a member of the congress.
LLANFAIR,
(Montgomeryshire.)
| Can-Office | 7 |
| Dinas-Mowddwy | 18 |
| Mallwyd | 16 |
| Newtown | 10 |
| Oswestry | 20 |
| Welshpool | 8 |
Llanfair, or Llanfair-Caer-Einion, a small market town pleasantly situated on the declivity of an eminence, rising from the south bank of the small river Banwy, which falls into the Vyrnwy, and on the turnpike road leading from Welshpool to Machynlleth and Dolgelley, containing 2687 inhabitants. It has a church dedicated to St. Mary, an ancient structure; and five places of worship for dissenters. The Vyrnwy abounds with such a quantity and variety of fish, as justly to entitle it to the name of amnis piscosus. The inhabitants of this place are said to excel in the practice of spearing fish.
Angling Stations.
| Myfod (Meivod) | 5 miles on the Vyrnwy. |
| Llangynyw | 2½ „ |
| Llanervul | 5 „ |
LLANFYLLYN,
(Montgomeryshire.)
| London | 178 |
| Mallwyd | 20 |
| Oswestry | 14 |
| Shrewsbury | 25 |
| Welshpool | 12 |
A market town of some note, situate in a fertile valley on the banks of the river Cain, surrounded by lofty hills. The market is held on Thursday. Population, 1955.
In the centre of the town stands the church, which was erected when the excellent Dr. Beveridge was bishop of the diocese; it is a neat brick building, dedicated to St. Myllyn. The peal of bells surpasses any in the county. Here are three endowed schools; and a good town hall was built in 1775.
Bôd Fach, near this town, the seat of Lord Mostyn, was once the residence of his paternal ancestors, the Kyffins. The markets and fairs of Llanfyllyn are well attended, particularly for the purchase of Welsh merlins, which are brought here for sale in great numbers.
LLANGEFNI,
(Anglesea.)
| Beaumaris | 12 |
| Llanerch-y-Medd | 7 |
| Menai Bridge | 7 |
| Mona Inn | 3 |
This is a small but neat market town centrally situated in the island. The markets and fairs are of considerable importance. It is one of the contributory boroughs; the present M.P. being Col. Paget. There is a neat church under the hill, and the town is romantically situated. The principal inn is Pen-y-bont.
Tregarnedd, now only a farm-house, but once the residence of Ednyfed Vychan, an able chieftain to Llywelyn the Great, is in this parish.
About three miles distant on the Llanerch-y-medd road is Tregaian, the residence of Vice-Admiral Lloyd. Not far off is Maen Rhos Rhyfel, where Owen Gwynedd obtained a signal victory over an invading army of Erse, Manksmen, and Normans. The population of Llangefni is 1753.
LLANGOLLEN,
(Denbighshire.)
| Chester | 23 |
| Chirk | 7 |
| Corwen | 10 |
| London | 183 |
| Oswestry | 12 |
| Ruabon | 6 |
| Ruthin | 15 |
| Wrexham | 12 |
The name of this place is derived from the dedication of its church to an ancient British saint named Collen, whose lineage runs thus, in names almost unpronounceable by Saxon tongues—St. Collen ap Gwynnawg ap Clydawg ap Cowrda ap Caredog Freichfras ap Llyr Merim ap Einion Yrth ap Cunededd ap Wledig. The town, which is beautifully situated in a deep narrow valley, enclosed by lofty mountains, and watered by the noble stream of the Dee, appears anciently to have been protected by the neighbouring fortress of Castell Dinas Bran, situated on the summit of a vast conical hill in its neighbourhood. The houses are in general old or rather mean in appearance, though occasionally interspersed with some modern handsome dwellings; and there is excellent accommodation for the numerous visitors who frequent the neighbourhood during the summer season. The pure air and mild temperature cause a number of families to adopt this locality as a permanent retreat. The Hand, the King’s Head and Royal Hotel, are the two principal inns. Population, 1500.
Here is a stone bridge over the Dee, consisting of four pointed arches, erected in the year 1345, by John Trevor, Bishop of St. Asaph, and which was anciently regarded as one of the wonders of North Wales. The scenery of the neighbourhood is pre-eminent for its grandeur and sublimity, and for its picturesque and romantic beauty.
The church is an ancient structure, with small pretensions to architectural beauty, except some fine carvings on the roof and other parts of the interior. The view from the churchyard is remarkably pretty, embracing the bridge, the weir, and Crow Castle. The talented and self taught clerk, Mr. Jones, may be consulted by writers with profit, as a person of considerable attainments and general information. The church services are alternately in the Welsh and English language.
The market is held on Saturday, and is well supplied with butcher’s meat, but very little corn is sold. By the late act for amending the representation, Llangollen has been made a polling-place in the election of knights for the shire.
Llangollen Vale,
a district long celebrated in prose and verse for its varied beauties, is bounded on each side by lofty mountains of imposing grandeur. It is certainly a charming and romantic spot; and though not so grandly impressive, or so surpassingly beautiful as some of the other Welsh valleys, its lovely features become more attractive on a familiar acquaintance. A remarkable range of lime-stone hills, called the Eglwyseg Rocks, adds a singular variety to the landscape. It is almost needless to observe that “Llangollen, that sweetest of vales,” is the scene of the home of “Jenny Jones,” whose charms are sung in Charles Matthews’ popular ballad.—In this vale, and within a quarter of a mile from the town, stands
Plas Newydd,
the famed retreat of Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby, better known, probably, as the two recluses of Llangollen Vale. These two females, delighted with the scenery around Llangollen, when it was little known to the rest of the world, sought here, about the year 1778, a philosophical retirement from the frivolities of fashionable life, and selected and improved a dwelling that commands a fine mountain prospect, which obtained the name of Plâs Newydd. This elegant little cottage is situated on a small knoll, and surrounded by very tasteful grounds.
The peculiar style in which these ladies decorated their retreat has been much discussed. A palisade, ornamented with antique and grotesque figures carved in oak, enclosed the front; and the doors and windows were decorated with carving of the same material. The rooms were tastefully adorned with drawings. A carriage drive, open to strangers, crosses the lawn immediately in front of the cottage. Lady Eleanor Butler died June 2, 1829, at the advanced age of 90, and Miss Ponsonby, Dec. 9, 1831, aged 76: both were interred in the churchyard of Llangollen. To their memory is erected a monument of unique and elegant structure. It has three sides, on each of which there is an appropriate epitaph; one for Lady Eleanor Butler, another for Miss Ponsonby, and the other for their youthful servant, Mary Carrol, who had accompanied them from Ireland, the country of their birth, to this delightful retirement.
The whole property was consigned to the hammer in 1832, and was purchased by two other maiden ladies, viz. Miss Lolly and Miss Andrew, who seemed inclined to emulate the retirement of its former possessors.
There are many other genteel villas and country residences, within a convenient distance of the town, deserving of notice.
Castell Dinas Bran
is situated on a high and somewhat conical hill, about a mile from Llangollen. The building has been about a hundred yards long, and fifty in breadth; and it formerly occupied the whole crown of the mountain. From its extremely elevated situation (being about 910 feet above the surface of the Dee at Llangollen bridge), it must have been a place of vast strength. On the side which is most accessible, it was defended by trenches cut through the solid rock. The present remains consist of nothing more than a few shattered walls. There is a well of pure water on the top of the hill.
The views hence on every side are very grand. Towards the east stretches the whole vale of Llangollen, through which the Dee foams over its rocky bed; and beyond the vale is seen all the flat and highly cultivated country that extends for many miles. Just beneath lies the town of Llangollen, and towards the west is the vale of Crucis, with its back-ground of lofty mountains, whose dark sides are agreeably varied with wood and meadow. This fortress, from the style of its architecture, is evidently the work of the Britons; but by whom built, or when demolished, is a matter of mystery. Old Churchyard, who visited it in the sixteenth century, calls it “an old ruynous thing.”
Vale Crucis Abbey,
or, as it is called by the Welsh, Monachlog Llan Egwestl, about two miles from Llangollen, and one mile and a half from Castell Dinas Bran, on the right of the road towards Ruthin, is a grand and majestic ruin, affording some noble specimens of ancient Gothic architecture. There are still remaining of the church the east and west ends, and the south transept. Several pillars and arches also remain as interesting memorials of this exquisite relic of a past age.
The cloister on the south side, which a century ago, was only a shell, is now converted into a dwelling-house, the residence of the person who farms the adjacent lands. Three rows of groined arches, on single round pillars, support the dormitory, which is now a loft for containing corn, approached by steps from without. The area of the church is overgrown with tall ash trees, which hide from the sight some part of the ruin, but contribute greatly to its picturesque beauty.
Vale Crucis was a house of Cistercian monks, dedicated to the Virgin Mother. It was indebted for its foundation, about the year 1200, to Madoc ap Griffith Maelor, Lord of Bromfield and Dinas Brân, who, after various successes, and acquiring much booty by the reduction and ruin of English castles, dedicated a portion of his booty to the service of religion. He was interred here. At the dissolution the revenues appear to have amounted to about £200 per annum. A short time ago, the burial place of the monks was accidentally discovered, in the garden at the back of the farm-house, where many of their remains were found, which must have been there in an undisturbed state for six hundred years.
Pillar of Eliseg.
The Vale of Crucis is indebted for its name to this cross or pillar, which is to be found in a field near the abbey, and just opposite to the second mile-stone from Llangollen. This pillar is very ancient. The Rev. John Price, Bodleian librarian, (uncle of Dr. Price of Llangollen,) a great antiquary, wrote to Mr. Lloyd, of Trevor Hall, respecting this long neglected pillar, and at his suggestion it was placed in the position it now occupies. It appears to have been erected upwards of a thousand years ago, in memory of Eliseg (the father of Brochwel Yscythrog, Prince of Powys, who was slain at the battle of Chester in 607), by Concenn or Congen, his great grandson. The inscription is much defaced, so that it cannot be satisfactorily traced. The shaft was once above twelve feet long, but having been thrown down and broken, sometime during the civil wars, its upper part, only about eight feet in length, was left. After these commotions, it was suffered to lie neglected for more than a century.
Post Cysylltau, or Cysylltau Aqueduct.
From Llangollen, most tourists visit this stupendous work of art. It is a wonderful effort of ingenious contrivance, and affords a convincing proof of the incalculable capability of human energies when directed by science. This aqueduct was constructed for the purpose of conveying the Ellesmere canal over the river and vale of the Dee. It was commenced in 1795, from designs by Mr. Telford, and completed in ten years. Its direction is from north to south, crossing the Dee at right angles; and it forms, in connexion with the exquisite scenery surrounding it, a noble and magnificent picture. To view it to the best advantage, the stranger must descend on one side of it, into the valley beneath; he will then be impressed with its stupendous character. Though the aqueducts of the Romans were superior in length, in other respects they were inferior to this modern structure.
The tourist may proceed along the high road towards Chirk, four miles from the town, where a turning to the left will conduct him to Pont Cysylltau Aqueduct; or crossing the bridge at Llangollen, ascend the hill to the canal, and walk along its banks till he arrives at the aqueduct. The high road is preferable, as it commands some engaging prospects.
The aqueduct, in length 1007 feet, consists of nineteen arches, each 45 feet in the span, with the addition of 10 feet 6 inches of iron work in continuation at each end. The supporting piers are stone, of a pyramidal shape, measuring at the base 21 feet by 14 feet wide; but diminishing upwards to 12 feet by 7 at the top; and their height about 116 feet. Over this immense arcade is extended a trough, or large open caisson, made of cast iron, 11 feet 10 inches broad, by which the water of the canal is conveyed over the river 1009 feet to the opposite level. Two iron plates are screwed together from centre to centre of each arch; and along one side of the canal is a towing path, four feet in breadth, with a handsome iron balustrade, as a defence for man and horse. The elevation collectively will stand thus:—
| Feet. | Inches. | |
| Height of piers | 116 | 0 |
| Depth of trough, or caisson | 5 | 6 |
| Height of balustrade | 4 | 7 |
| Total height from surface of the Dee | 126 | 1 |
At the southern end is an embankment of earth, 1500 feet in length, and seventy-five feet in height nearest the abutment of the arches. The whole undertaking is said to have cost £47,069 : 6 : 7.
On the centre arch is the following inscription:—“The nobility and gentry of the adjacent counties, having united their efforts with the great commercial interest of this country, in creating an intercourse and union between England and North Wales, by a navigable communication of the three rivers, Severn, Dee, and Mersey, for the mutual benefit of agriculture and trade, caused the first stone of this aqueduct of Pont Cyssyllte to be laid on the 25th day of July, MDCCXCV, when Richard Myddelton, of Chirk, Esq., one of the original patrons of the Ellesmere canal, was Lord of the Manor, and in the reign of our Sovereign George the Third; when the equity of the laws and the security of property promoted the general welfare of the nation, while the arts and sciences flourished by his patronage, and the conduct of civil life was improved by his example.”
The antiquarian will find some interesting remains in this neighbourhood worthy of investigation. Amongst them is a square tower, very strongly built, in advance of and at the foot of the hill on which Crow Castle stands. For many years it has been appropriated as part of a farm-house, called ‘The Tower.’ The walls of the original building or tower are very thick; and in one corner of the quadrangle there is a winding stone staircase, now concealed by a bookcase. The probability is that this old tower was an advanced station belonging to the castle. There are also vestiges of a nunnery or monastery at a place called Pengwern.
About six miles from Llangollen, on the Ruthin road, is a curious old building, called Rhydidris, near Llandaglan. The site, the extensive stabling, and the antique curiosities in the house, raise the probability that it has been garrisoned, and also been a military station of great importance.
The Shrewsbury and Chester Railway Company intend to run a branch from their main line at Ruabon to Llangollen.
Angling Stations.
| The Dee | from Corwen to Llangollen. |
| “ “ | from Llangollen to Overton. |
LLANGYNOG,
(Montgomeryshire.)
| Bala | 11 |
| Llanfyllyn | 7 |
| Llanrhaiadr | 6 |
Llangynog (the church of St. Cynog) is a small village, situated in a pleasing slip of fertile land, above which rises a stupendous rock of coarse slate. The river Tanat, which runs through this village, is celebrated for its delicious trout. The upper end of the vale is bounded by two vast precipices; between them juts out the rude promontory of Moel ddu Vawr. On the north side of this valley is the house of Llechwend-garth, the occasional residence of the late Thomas Thomas, Esq. of Downing, near Holywell, whose daughter married H. Davies Griffith, Esq. of Caer-Rhûn, Caernarvonshire, who, in consequence, became possessed of this estate, and was in 1835 high sheriff of the county of Montgomery. The new inn affords tolerable accommodations.
At Craig-y-Mwyn. somewhat more than two miles from the village, in 1692, a vein of lead ore was discovered, so valuable as to yield to the Powys family a clear revenue of at least £20,000 a year. It had been worked to the depth of about one hundred yards, when on a sudden the water broke in with such continuous power, that the proprietor was compelled to abandon the undertaking. About the commencement of the present century, however, the mine was leased by a company, who drove a level beneath it, in order to draw off the water, and continued the working of it for some time; they occasionally found masses of pure ore, weighing from 70 to 1001b. each. After some time the works were again discontinued, until a few years ago, when the old shaft was reopened, and the operations proceeded with considerable success.
At Craig-y-Gribin, in this parish, are some quarries of excellent blue slate, of strong and durable quality.
LLANHAIARN,
(Caernarvonshire.)
| Caernarvon | 13 |
| Pwllheli | 7 |
This is a small village, situated near the west coast of the promontory of Lleyn. Its church, standing on an eminence, forms a good land-mark.—Between this place and the sea, the lofty range of the Rival (or Yr Eifl) Mountains, which form conspicuous objects from Caernarvon and other parts of the country. Upon the first of these eminences, about a mile from Llanhaiarn, is Tre ’r Caeri (or the Town of Fortresses), which Mr. Pennant describes as “the most perfect and magnificent, as well as the most artfully constructed British post he ever behold.” The only accessible side was defended by three walls, which appear to have been very lofty. The area is irregularly shaped, and near the centre is a square space surrounded by the fragments of habitations.
LLANIDAN,
(Anglesea.)
| Caernarvon | 3 |
| Llanedwen | 2 |
| Menai Bridge | 6 |
| Plas Newydd | 3 |
Llanidan is a little village, near the shores of the Menai, not far from the spot where the Romans landed, headed by Suetonius Paulinus, who murdered the Britons by thousands. It is called, by Rowlands, Maes Mawr Gad (the Great Army’s Field). It lies three hundred yards from the Menai, and consists of about twenty acres. The Romans entered the water about two hundred yards south of Llanfair-is-caer church, where the shore is flat, the water shallow, and only three quarters of a mile wide. At low water, and at neap tide, most of the bed is dry.
After the death of Nero, in the year 67, the natives, after six years of thraldom, threw off the Roman yoke, the Druids returned and assumed their authority and property, which they held till the year 76; when Agricola crossed the Menai, nearly a mile farther north, landed at a field yet called Pont or Pant-yr-Yscraffiau (Bridge of Boats), where the same tragedy was re-acted in this and the two adjoining fields.
The locality abounds with an interesting variety of druidical remains. Lord Boston has a residence and a park here: the house is a clumsy building, but the situation is most pleasant.
LLANIDLOES,
(Montgomeryshire.)
| Aberystwyth | 30 |
| Devil’s Bridge | 19 |
| London | 193 |
| Machynlleth | 20 |
| Newtown | 14 |
| Plinlimmon | 7 |
Llanidloes (the Church of St. Idloes) is pleasantly situated near the Severn. The population of the whole parish is 4261, including 2562 inhabitants of the town, who are principally employed in spinning and weaving of flannels, the manufacture of which has been established in this town from a very early period, and has continued materially to increase; the softest and most durable texture is made here. The principal inn is the New Inn, an excellent and well conducted establishment, where post-chaises and other vehicles may be had; the Queen’s Head, Red Lion, and the Crown, are also respectable houses, where travellers may be well accommodated. By the late Reform Act, this town was made one of the contributory boroughs of the county.
The church was originally founded towards the close of the fifth or at the beginning of the sixth century. Of the original building the towers only remain. The present structure was built about 200 years ago. In 1816, the chancel and south wall were rebuilt; at the same time the church was renewed; and a set of new bells was hung in the tower in 1824. As is usual in all the Welsh towns, there are places of worship for various dissenting congregations. The market-day is on Saturday.
A few years ago, a handsome stone bridge of three arches was erected over the Severn, at a considerable expense; and a new and excellent line of road was opened from hence to Rhaiadr, which makes a direct and regular communication between North and South Wales. Lord Mostyn is lord of the manor; a court leet is held once a year, at Michaelmas, when officers are appointed, in whom the government of the place is vested. In the vicinity of the town are several handsome residences, the property of opulent individuals.
Within eight miles of Llanidloes, in the parish of Llanbrynmair, are two fine waterfalls, near to each other, of which the principal, called Ffrwd Vawr, is very grand, especially after heavy rains; the water having a perpendicular descent of more than one hundred and thirty feet.
Plinlimmon.
Within the limits of Llanidloes parish is partly included the lofty mountain of Plinlimmon, (or, more properly, Plumlumon, the five-peaked mountain) which is the highest in the several chains, of which it forms the centre: and from this place the ascent to its summit is usually made, being only seven miles distant from the town, whence guides from the principal inns are provided. From the highest point is obtained a fine prospect of vast extent, comprehending on the south, the hills of Cardiganshire and Radnorshire; on the west, Cardigan bay and St. George’s channel; on the north, Cader Idris and part of the Snowdon range of mountains, separating the counties of Caernarvon and Merioneth; on the north-east, the Breiddyn hills, in Montgomeryshire; and on the east, part of the counties of Hereford and Salop. This mountain derives a considerable degree of interest from its giving rise to the rivers Severn, Wye, Rheidiol, and Llyvn-nant; of which the former is secondary only to the Thames in commercial importance; whilst the Wye and the Rheidiol surpass all other rivers in Britain for the picturesque beauty of their scenery.
The Severn, here called by its ancient British name of Havren, rises on the northern side of the mountain, in a stony chalybeate spring, and is speedily joined and increased by other springs rising near to its source, and by several mountain torrents, before it reaches Llanidloes.
The Wye rises from two powerful springs on the south-eastern side of the mountain, and after a long circuitous course, falls into the Severn near Chepstow.
The Rheidiol has its source in a pool called Llyn Llygad Rheidiol, and falls into the sea at Aberystwyth.
The Llyvn-nant issues from a pool called Glâs Llyn.
About twenty years ago, Llyn Llygad was entirely without fish. Two gentlemen, one of whom was the late Captain Jones, R.N., of Machynlleth, were grousing on Plinlimmon, when the conversation turned on the peculiarity of this lake being entirely destitute of the finny tribe, and the possibility of stocking it from a neighbouring rivulet. A staff net was procured, and some dozens of small trout caught in the river Rheidiol were thrown into the lake, which at that time swarmed with millions of horse leeches. Some of the trout, when placed in the pool, lay upon their sides faint and exhausted: and strange as it may appear, the rapacious leeches attached themselves to the sick fish, and actually devoured them. Others of the trout were vigorous; these and their progeny have enforced the lex talionis with a vengeance; and while the fish abound, not a leech is now to be seen.
At Melin Velindre, on the route to Plinlimmon, is a romantic cataract, and near a sheep farm, called Blaen Havren, the Severn rolls its waters over a lofty ledge of slate rocks, in which gullies have been found of picturesque shapes.
About two miles from the town, on the south-east, is a spacious pool, called Llyn-ebyr, extending over a surface of nearly one hundred acres; it abounds with pike, eels, and perch, and affords excellent fishing; it is frequented by wild fowl; and during the summer season it is the resort of parties of pleasure, for whose accommodation boats belonging to gentlemen in the vicinity are kept on the pool.
Angling Stations.
| Distance from Llanidloes. | Miles. |
| The Clywedog | |
| Bodaioch, on the Tavannon | 5 |
| Glan Trevnant | 5 |
| Llandinam | 6½ |
| Llangurig | 5 |
LLANRHAIADR,
(Denbighshire.)
| Denbigh | 4 |
| Ruthin | 4 |
Llanrhaiadr (the Village of the Cataract), on the road between Ruthin and Denbigh, is situated on a small eminence in the fertile vale of Clwyd. It derives its name from a spring at a short distance, called Ffynnon Ddyfrog, where once was a bath and chapel, dedicated to St. Ddyfrog.
The church is a very interesting and handsome structure. On the east window is a painting of the genealogy of Christ from Jesse, executed about 1533. In the church-yard is a curious inscription to John ap Robert, whose pedigree is traced up to Cadell, king of Powys.
The scenery, both to Denbigh and Ruthin, is all the way extremely beautiful.
LLANRHAIADR-YN-MOCHNANT,
(Denbighshire.)
| Bala | 18 |
| Llanfyllyn | 5 |
| Llangynog | 6 |
| Oswestry | 14 |
This is a small village situated at the extremity of the county, in a deep hollow, surrounded by mountains.
Dr. William Morgan, the first translator of the Bible into Welsh, was vicar of this place. He was promoted to the bishopric of Llandaff, and in 1601 to that of St. Asaph, where he died in 1604. This valley is called Mochnant, (the Vale of the Rapid Brook) at the extremity of which, distant from the village about four miles and a half, is
Pistyll Rhaiadr,
(The Spout of the Cataract) reputed to be the largest waterfall in Wales. The little river Rhaiadr here falls down an almost perpendicular black crag, of 240 feet in height. For about two-thirds of this space, the water slides down the flat face of a naked rock; it rages thence through a natural arch, and, passing between two prominent sides, falls into a basin. It then passes though a well-wooded dell, forming a boundary line which separates the counties of Denbigh and Montgomery, and after assisting to form some pretty scenes, falls into the Tanat. Near to the waterfall is a neat inn, built in the Gothic style, by Sir W. W. Wynn, where the stranger may meet with tolerable accommodation.
LLANRWST,
(Denbighshire.)
| Abergele | 22 |
| Bettws-y-Coed | 4 |
| Cerniogau | 14 |
| Capel Curig | 10 |
| Conway | 12 |
| Denbigh | 22 |
| Llanrhychwyn | 2½ |
| London | 218 |
| Maen-Twrog | 20 |
This town is pleasantly situated on the western bank of the river Conway, which here forms the boundary between the counties of Denbigh and Caernarvon, in the spacious and beautiful vale of Llanrwst, environed by majestic and well-wooded hills, the land at the foot of which is plentifully watered and remarkably fertile. The town consists principally of small houses and shops, with a population of 3905 inhabitants. It has a market on Tuesday, and a branch of the North and South Wales bank. The Eagles is the principal inn; but a good house of public entertainment is sadly wanted here.
The bridge over the Conway, leading to Gwydir, is an elegant structure, built about the year 1636, from a plan by the celebrated Inigo Jones, at an expense of £1000, defrayed conjointly by the two counties which it connects. It is an extraordinary fact that a vibration of the bridge may be caused by any person standing above the middle arch and forcing himself rather smartly against the parapet.—Excellent roads have lately been made, communicating with the London, Holyhead, and Chester roads, and also with Denbigh and St. Asaph, the improved state of which has induced a considerable increase of visitors, during the summer months, to view the picturesque and much admired scenery of this neighbourhood.
Llanrwst was formerly noted for making harps; at present the spinning of woollen yarn, and the knitting of stockings, constitute the principal branches of trade. In the market-place stands the town-hall, a substantial structure, rebuilt in 1842.
The original church, dedicated to St. Grwst, was a small edifice, situated close to the margin of the river, and built about the year 1170; and was supposed, from its style of architecture, to have been erected in the fifteenth century: it contained a screen of beautifully carved oak, brought here from the abbey of Maenan, which was used as a gallery for the singers. A new church has, however, been built on its site; and adjoining it, on the other side, is Gwydir chapel, a handsome square castellated edifice, the interior of which is decorated with a profusion of carved work; it was built by Sir Richard Wynne, from a design by Inigo Jones, in 1633, as a burial place for his family, the deceased members of which had previously been interred in the chancel, and contains many elegantly engraved brasses, exhibiting portraits of several of this family. On the eastern wall is a slab of white marble, recording the pedigree of the founder, and tracing his ancestors to Owen Gwynedd, prince of North Wales. On the southern wall is a mutilated monument to the memory of Sir John Wynne, Bart., a learned antiquary, and an indefatigable gleaner of materials for the illustration of Welsh history. In the centre of the chapel, upon the floor, lies the stone coffin of Llywelyn the Great, who died in 1240, and was interred in the abbey which he had founded at Aberconway, thence removed to Maenan, and from that place, at the dissolution, the coffin was brought to the old parish church of Llanrwst, where it remained obscured by rubbish, until placed in its present more appropriate situation. The same attention has likewise been paid to another piece of antiquity placed near it, a recumbent armed effigy of Howel Coetmor, grandson of Davydd, brother to Llywelyn ap Gruffydd; he was the owner of the Gwydir estate, which was sold by one of his descendants to the family of Wynne. There are in the parish eleven places of worship for dissenters. A new church, called by the inhabitants the English church, has lately been erected about half a mile from Llanrwst. It is a neat and commodious edifice.
Gwydir.
This ancient mansion, about half a mile distant from the town, beautifully situated amidst extensive woods of oak, which clothe the rocks projecting between the rivers Conway and Llugwy, near the foot of a lofty precipice called Carreg y Gwalch, or the Rock of the Falcon, was erected by John Wynne ab Meredydd, in 1555, and comprised an extensive, but somewhat irregular pile of buildings, ranged in a quadrangular style, and consisting of an inner and outer court. A great part of this edifice was taken down in 1816, since which time the present structure, though on a much smaller scale, has been built. A small portion of the former mansion still remains, and is fitted up in an antique and elegant style. That part which was built by Meredydd still remains, and contains some magnificent rooms, in which are several articles of furniture made from the druidical oaks of ancient times, and the cradle which nurtured Sir John and Sir Richard Wynne is still to be seen. The pleasure grounds are laid out with great taste, and contain a good collection of plants. Mary Wynne, afterwards Duchess of Ancaster, the last of this great race, conveyed the property to that family, and Lord Willoughby d’Eresby now possesses it in right of his lady.
Vale of Llanrwst.
This delightful vale, which is neither so widely extended as the Vale of Clwyd, nor so contracted as that of Llangollen, is regarded by the admirers of picturesque scenery, as exhibiting the most varied assemblage of beautiful features which the pencil could delineate. Mr. Burke has pronounced it “the most charming spot in Wales.” The prospect of the dense woods and towering hills which enclose it on each side, is enlivened by the sparkling waters of the sportive Conway, which present an animated scene, either of small vessels arriving at the village of Trefriw, or of the diminutive boats, called coracles, used in fishing for salmon and smelts, considerable quantities of which are caught in their respective seasons. At Mayne, within a mile of Llanrwst, is a spring of high repute, and frequently used with great effect as a cold bath.
In the valley called Nant Bwlch yr Haiarn, near Gwydir, is a cataract which falls about 100 feet, called Rhaiadr-y-Parc Mawr. The quantity of water, however, is seldom large enough to produce much effect. About two miles and a half from Llanrwst, on the Conway road, is the small but beautiful village of
Trefriw,
situated on an eminence commanding a delightful and extensive view of the Vale of Llanrwst. Near and above this lovely spot is the celebrated lake of Geirionydd, on the banks of which lived the illustrious bard Taliesin, called by his countrymen, by way of distinction, “Taliesin ben Beirdd,” the chief of the bards. About a mile from Llyn Geirionydd is the mountain village of Llanrhychwyn. Lord Willoughby d’Eresby has erected a monument which his lordship intended should identify the spot where the poet resided. Here, in a sort of hollow, formed on the summit of a mound, are still to be seen some remains of an ancient habitation. The river Conway is navigable from its mouth to Trefriw, for vessels of 60 tons burden, which bring coal, lime, timber, and grocery, for the supply of the inhabitants of the town and neighbourhood, and carry back the produce of the slate quarries and mines of the adjoining parishes. Five miles S. E. of Llanrwst, is
Gwytherin,
a small village, very poor and primitive indeed, once celebrated as the burial place of St. Winefred, but the pilgrimages to it are now few and far between.—Three miles to the north stood the Abbey of Maenan; but a large old house built out of its ruins now occupies its place.
Angling Stations.
Distance fromLlanrwst. | Miles. |
Bettws-y-Coed | 5 |
Trefriw | 2½ |
Dolgarrog | 4 |
Llanbedr | 5 |
Dolwyddelan | 8 |
Various Lakesnear Llanrhychwyn and Dôlgarrog, viz. | |
Llyn Geirionydd | 4 |
Llyn Bogynmyd | 3 |
Llyn Cowlyd | 6 |
Llyn Afangc. | |
Llyn Tal-y-llyn, and Llyn Crafnant, nearLlanrwst. | |
MACHYNLLETH,
(Montgomeryshire.)
| Aberdovey | 10 |
| Aberystwyth | 18 |
| Chester | 70 |
| Dolgelley | 16 |
| Llanidloes | 20 |
| London | 208 |
| Newtown | 28 |
| Towyn | 14 |
Machynlleth is an ancient well-built town, superior to most in North Wales for cleanliness and respectability, the streets being remarkably spacious and regular in appearance. It is situated on the road leading to Aberystwyth from Shrewsbury and North Wales, about a quarter of a mile from the southern bank of the river Dyfi. The township contains a population of 2482. It is the centre of the woollen manufactory in this part of the country, where also some tanning business is carried on. The Eagles is accounted the principal inn, and the Unicorn Arms, in the middle of the town, has obtained a good repute for excellent accommodation. The name of this town signifies the place of the river Cynllaeth, which was the ancient name of the Dyfi or Dovey, in the valley of which it stands. It is the supposed Maglana of the Romans, where, in the reign of Honorius, a lieutenant was stationed to awe the mountaineers.
Here Owen Glyndwr summoned the nobility and gentry, of Wales in 1402. Amongst the number, Sir David Gam attended with the design of murdering Glyndwr, but the plot was discovered, and Sir David was seized. He would have suffered instantaneous death, had not some powerful friends interfered, through whose intercession his sentence was mitigated to confinement at Machynlleth, where he continued some time. But Sir David was scarcely set at liberty, ere he began to manifest a turbulent disposition; which so exasperated Glyndwr, that he burnt his house in resentment, uttering to Gam’s servant the following extemporaneous stanza:—
Os gweli di wr coch cam,
Yn ’mofyn am Gyrnigwen;
Dywed ei bod hi tan y lan,
A nod y glo ar ei phen.
David, however, escaped this meditated vengeance by flying into England, where he continued in favour at the court of Henry the Fifth.
In the august assembly called Owen’s parliament, Glyndwr exerted his first acts of royalty, being then acknowledged as the Prince of Wales, and proclaimed and crowned.
Machynlleth has a neat and commodious church, which has recently been rebuilt. The town-hall or market-house was erected in 1783, by Sir W. W. Wynn, grandfather of the present owner of Wynnstay, who is lord of the manor, and holds courts leet twice in the year. The county court is held alternately here and at Montgomery, and the petty sessions for the hundred are held here occasionally. There are places of worship for Independents, Calvinists, and Wesleyan Methodists; and a national school liberally endowed.
The new line of road from Machynlleth to Towyn is exceedingly picturesque and beautiful, particularly that part of it lying between Penal and Aberdovey, which is cut out of the solid rock, and was opened in 1827; it passes along the northern bank of the Dovey, and affords most delightful views of the opposite coast of Cardiganshire, with the sea in the distance.
MAEN-TWROG
(Merionethshire.)
| Bala | 22 |
| Bedd-gelert | 10 |
| Capel Curig | 22 |
| Caernarvon | 23 |
| Dolgelley | 18 |
| Ffestiniog | 3 |
| Harlech | 10 |
| Slate Quarries | 5 |
| Tan-y-Bwlch | 0¼ |
| Tremadoc | 10 |
| The Cataracts | 2 |
This is a small village, situated in the most romantic part of the highly picturesque vale of Ffestiniog, on the southern bank of the river Dwyryd. It derives its name from a large stone, still remaining in the church-yard, called Maen-Twrog, erected to the memory of a British saint, who died about the year 610. The church was rebuilt on the site of the ancient structure in 1814, and is a neat stone edifice with a square embattled tower. The Rev. Edmund Prys, Archdeacon of Merioneth, one of the most eminent poets of his time, was rector of this parish: he translated the metrical psalms used in the Welsh churches, and assisted Bishop Morgan in translating the Bible. He died in the year 1623, and was buried in Maen-Twrog church. Nothing can exceed the beauties of the little vale in which the village is built; the well-wooded hills are moderately high, and scattered with pleasing effect.
There is a comfortable inn here, where neat cars may be had. A Sunday school was lately erected, at the expense of Mrs. Oakley. Within sight of the village, and about a quarter of a mile distant, on the opposite side of the river, is
Tan-y-Bwlch,
that is, Below the Pass, which is one of the most beautiful and celebrated places connected with the range of Snowdonian mountains. It takes its name from being situated at the brow of a hill, where it overlooks the vale of Ffestiniog; and from Plâs Tan-y-Bwlch, the residence of the late W. G. Oakley, Esq., which is delightfully and romantically situated. The prospect from the terrace of this mansion is most splendid and interesting, embracing the glorious scenery of the vale of Ffestiniog, the river Dwyryd in all its meandering windings, the range of Merionethshire mountains in the distance, the majestic castle of Harlech, and the lake-like intervening views opening into Cardigan bay.
The Oakley Arms, an elegant hotel, is conveniently situated in the centre of the many attractive objects of this romantic district.
Several Roman antiquities have lately been found near this place, consisting of coins, urns, and inscribed stones, some of which are in the possession of Mrs. Oakley, and of J. Lloyd, Esq. of Pen-y-Glanau, who has also an extensive collection of antiquities, found in different parts of the Principality.
About two miles on the Harlech road, up a woody valley, are two most interesting waterfalls, on the Velin-Rhyd river, one called the Rhaiadr Dû, or the Black Cataract, and the other the Raven Fall. From the former the water rushes down a steep channel for about one hundred yards, and is thence thrown with great force over three rocks, each of which takes a different direction from the others: the depth of the fall is about forty feet. The latter is not more than a quarter of a mile distant, and in equal in beauty and grandeur. It consists of six different falls, each of which, about thirty feet in extent, is beautifully picturesque, and, as seen from the base of the rock over which the river descends, has a sublime and romantic appearance. There are also several other falls of minor interest on the streams that water the vale. At a cottage near the bridge, which the tourist will cross before he leaves the main road from Maen-Twrog, a guide to the falls may be obtained.
After the natural beauties of this lovely district, the object of the greatest attraction is the Ffestiniog railroad, for the conveyance of slates from the Ffestiniog quarries to Port Madoc, which is cut through rocks nearly the whole length of fourteen miles, and forms an inclined plane the whole distance, the fall of which is equal to one in one hundred and twenty, and the descent from its commencement to its termination is a most delightful ride, through an infinite variety of sublime and interesting scenery. For the accommodation of tourists and visitors, a carriage, connected with the Oakley Arms Hotel, has been placed on the line.
The quarries with which the railway is in connexion produce the best and most valuable kind of slate. They belong to Lords Newborough, Palmerston, and Powlett; Mrs. Oakley; S. Holland, J. Greaves, W. Turner, and Thomas Casson, Esquires.
MALLWYD.
(Montgomeryshire.)
| Bala | 19 |
| Can-Office | 12 |
| Dinas Mowddwy | 1½ |
| Machynlleth | 12 |
This is a little village, placed between the salient angles of three abrupt mountains, Arran, Camlan, and Moel Dyfi, in a small valley surrounded by many delightful scenes, through which runs the river Dyfi, or Dovey.
The falls of the Dovey at Pont Fallwyd, about half a mile distant, are particularly romantic and beautiful.
The church is a very humble Gothic structure. The churchyard is remarkable for several large yew trees, one of which measures twenty-two feet in girth, and forty feet in height.—Mallwyd has a good inn, where post chaises may be procured.
MOLD,
(Flintshire.)
| Chester | 12 |
| Denbigh | 16 |
| Flint | 6 |
| Hawarden | 6 |
| Holywell | 10 |
| London | 200 |
| Northop | 3 |
| Ruthin | 10 |
| Wrexham | 11 |
The ancient British name of this place, (Yr Wyddgrûg), signifying a Lofty and Conspicuous Hill, and also the Roman name of Mont Altus, of like import, were derived from a high mound on the north-western side of the present town, now called the Bailey Hill, a commanding eminence, partly natural, and partly artificial, upon which a fortification appears to have been erected at a very early period, but whether by the ancient Britons, or by the Romans, is not accurately known. It is seated in a pleasant valley, watered by the river Alyn; consists principally of one long spacious street; and in 1841, with that part of the township immediately adjoining, contained 10,653 inhabitants. By the late Act for amending the representation, Mold has been constituted a borough, contributory with Flint and the other boroughs in the county, in the return of a member to Parliament.
In the environs are numerous handsome seats and elegant mansions. The principal inns are the Black Lion and Leeswood Arms hotels. To the former a spacious assembly room has lately been added, and many agreeable balls are there given. The parish abounds with mineral wealth; the western district is rich in lead ore, which is generally found imbedded in limestone, or chirtz; but the operations are much impeded by the subterraneous stream of the Alyn, which here flows under ground for the space of upwards of half a mile. Numerous tumuli are found in various parts of the parish. In October 1833, some workmen, digging in a field near the town, discovered a human skeleton, having at its feet an earthern pot, which apparently contained ashes; and on the breast, with other metal, a large plate of gold, much ornamented, valued at the sum of £70: the trustees of the British Museum became the purchasers of these antique relics.
In the neighbourhood are various works for smelting lead, and an extensive cotton mill.
The county assizes are held in Mold. A new county hall has been erected in the old English style of architecture, from a design by Thomas Jones, Esq., architect, of Chester.
The church, dedicated to St. Mary, and said to have been erected in the early part of the sixteenth century, is a spacious and handsome structure, consisting of a nave, north and south aisles, and a chancel, with a lofty square embattled tower, enriched with sculpture and crowned with pinnacles, which though of more recent erection, precisely correspond with the general design. The interior of the church is embellished with architectural details and sculptured monuments. Among numerous monuments worthy of examination, is an elegant one to the memory of Richard Davies, Esq., of Llanerch; and against a pillar of the nave is this singular epitaph, composed by Dr. Wynne for himself, and placed there during his life:—“In conformity to ancient usage, from a proper regard to decency, and a concern for the health of his fellow-creatures, he was moved to give particular directions for being buried in the adjoining churchyard, and not in the church; and as he scorned flattering of others while living, he has taken care to prevent being flattered by others when dead, by causing this small memorial to be set up in his lifetime: God be merciful to me a sinner!” In the burial ground are deposited the remains of Wilson, the celebrated painter, styled “the English Claude.” There are places of worship for various denominations of dissenters. A branch railway from Mold, to form a junction with the Shrewsbury and Holyhead lines, at Saltney, near Chester, will soon be constructed.
Of the ancient castle not a vestige at present can be discerned, and its very site is completely covered with thriving plantations. The Bailey Hill, on which it stood, though at present difficult of ascent, was rendered still more arduous by the erection of strong ramparts and the formation of a deep moat: from the summit of this hill a fine view of the surrounding country is obtained. About a mile west of Mold is a noted spot of ground, called
Maes Garmon,
Or the Field of Germanus. Soon after the final establishment of Christianity in this part of the Principality, about 448, a severe conflict took place here, between the combined forces of the pagan Saxons and Picts, and the native converts, of whom thousands had been just previously baptized. The latter calmly awaited the approach of the enemy at this place, under the command of Bishops Germanus and Lupus, the former of whom, having given his troops orders to repeat after him the word “alleluiah,” led them on to battle.
This triumphant shout, uttered by the whole army, struck such terror into the hearts of the pagans, that they fled on all sides; numbers perished by the swords of their pursuers; and many, attempting to escape, were drowned in the adjacent river. This celebrated victory, which took place in Easter week, has been distinguished by historians with the appellation of “Victoria Alleluiatica;” and the memorial of it has been perpetuated by the erection of a pillar, in 1730, on the spot where St. Germanus is said to have stood. Modern researches of antiquarians have raised a doubt as to the locality of this remarkable event. One mile and a half on the Chester road runs
Offa’s Dyke,
The ancient and famous boundary between Wales and England, extending from Basingwerk, in Flintshire, to Monmouth. When the Romans made their inroads into this island, many of the Britons retreated into Wales, at which time the rivers Dee and Severn divided the two countries: all to the east was England, and to the west Wales. This division continued about 600 years, when the ambitious Offa, coveting the fertile lands of his neighbours, raised a quarrel and an army. He drove the conquered westward among the mountains, seized their property, formed this vast dyke, and ordained that neither Englishman nor Welshman should pass the new boundary.
The Tower.
On the right of the road leading towards Caergwrle, and about a mile from Mold, is an old structure, which presents a singular specimen of the style of domestic architecture during the ages of lawless violence in which it was erected: it consists of an ancient square tower of three stories, and appears to have been designed as a place of fortified habitation. During the wars between the houses of York and Lancaster, it was inhabited by Reinallt ab Gruffydd ab Bleddyn, who was constantly engaged in feuds with the citizens of Chester. In 1495, a considerable number of the latter came to Mold fair, and a fray arising between the hostile parties, great slaughter ensued on both sides; but Reinallt, who obtained the victory, took the mayor of Chester prisoner, and conveyed him to his mansion, where he hung him on the staple in his great hall. To avenge this affront, a party of two hundred men was dispatched from Chester to seize Reinallt, who, retiring from his house into the adjoining woods, permitted a few of them to enter the building, when, rushing from his concealment, he blocked up the door, and, setting fire to the house, destroyed them in the flames: he then attacked the remainder, whom he pursued with great slaughter: and such as escaped the sword, were drowned in attempting to regain their homes. The staple on which the mayor was hung still remains fixed on the ceiling of the lower apartment.
Moel Fammau.
On the right of the road to Ruthin, about five miles west of Mold, is this conspicuous eminence, rising 1845 feet above the level of the sea. Upon the summit of this mountain, the gentlemen of the country entered into a subscription, and erected in 1810, a jubilee column, to commemorate the fiftieth year of the reign of George III. The first stone was laid by Lord Kenyon, on the 25th October, in the presence of more than 3000 people. The monument was executed from designs by T. Harrison, Esq., of Chester, and consists of a rough stone building of pyramidal form, about 150 feet in height, and 60 feet diameter at the base. A square block of stone in the centse marks the division of the two counties, Denbighshire and Flintshire, and four parishes. From this elevated spot may be seen parts of Staffordshire and Derbyshire; the Wrekin, in Shropshire; Snowdon and Cader Idris, in Wales; and Black Comb, in Cumberland. The view is exceedingly grand and extensive, combining every variety of natural scenery; and as the mountain road has lately been repaired, and a room for visitors with a shed for horses erected on the summit, it forms a convenient and interesting spot from which to contemplate the beauties of Wales. The jubilee column has also been repaired by public subscription, to which Lord Kenyon was a liberal contributor.
Kilkain.
This village, which lies about four miles from Mold, on the bridle road to Denbigh, is remarkable for the finely-carved roof of its church, which at the dissolution of monasteries was brought from the abbey of Basingwerk.
MONA INN,
(Anglesea.)
| Beaumaris | 14 |
| Holyhead | 12 |
| Menai Bridge | 10 |
Mona Inn, formerly called Caeau Môn, is an excellent hotel, situate midway between Bangor and Holyhead, on the new line of road between those places. Post chaises are kept here. About nine miles beyond the Mona Inn the mail road crosses the Stanley Sands, by means of an embankment 1300 yards in length, and upon an average of 16 feet in height. In the fields of the inn the geologist will find a curious red rock, containing jasper, which will cut glass like a diamond, and which also polishes beautifully.
MONTGOMERY,
(Montgomeryshire.)
| Bishop’s Castle | 9 |
| London | 169 |
| Newtown | 9 |
| Welshpool | 8 |
This town, the capital of the county, is romantically situated, partly on the summit, and partly on the declivity of a hill, rising from the southern bank of the Severn, and under the shelter of a mountain of a mountain of loftier elevation.—The town-hall stands in the middle of the town, the area underneath being used for the market: the upper part is divided into two handsome rooms, erected at the expense of Lord Clive, the larger of which is used for assemblies; the smaller, for the business of the quarter sessions. On the left of the road leading to Shrewsbury is the new gaol, built by the county at an expense of £10,000. In 1841, the population returns gave to this town 1208 inhabitants. The Dragon has the reputation of being the principal inn.
The town was anciently built and fortified with a castle, by Baldwyn, lieutenant of the Welsh marshes to William the Conqueror, and then called Tre-Faldwyn, i.e. Baldwyn’s Town; but Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Shrewsbury, in 1092, entered Powys-land, and took his place, which he fortified anew, built the castle (according to Doomsday-book), and called it after his own name. The church is a handsome cruciform structure, and contains an ancient monument to the memory of Richard Herbert, Esq., father of the celebrated Lord Herbert of Chirbury.
The ruins of the castle crown an eminence to the north of the town, the approach to which is easy; but on the opposite side, the rock upon which it is built rises almost perpendicularly. A seat belonging to the Earl of Powys, called Leymore Lodge, stands about half a mile from the town, on the road to Bishop’s Castle.
Mynydd, or Cefn Dygoll,
Is celebrated for having been the spot where the national independence of the Welsh was finally prostrated. After the death of Llywelyn, the northern Welshmen set up Madoc, his cousin, who assembled a great army, and after several victories at Caernarvon, Denbigh, Knockin, and on the marshes, the hero of the Principality was here overthrown, in 1294, by the collected power of the Lords Marshers, after a fiercely contested battle.
NEVYN,
(Caernarvonshire.)
| Caernarvon | 21 |
| Cricaeth | 15 |
| London | 270 |
| Pwllheli | 7 |
Nevyn is a small market town, situated on the western coast of the county, with a population of 1726 inhabitants. It is only remarkable as the place where Edward the First, in 1284, celebrated his conquest of Wales by tournaments and feasts. The coast in the neighbourhood is bold and rocky, and the surrounding scenery altogether of a mountainous character. The church is a neat building, erected in 1824.
On a narrow head-land, jutting into the sea, about a mile from the town, is Porth-yn-Llëyn, supposed, from remains of strong entrenchments, to have been a port frequented by the Romans. It forms a natural bay, in which there is safe anchorage in all winds, for vessels of the largest tonnage.
NEWBOROUGH,
(Anglesea.)
| Aberfraw | 7 |
| Menai Bridge | 12 |
Newborough is on inconsiderable village, containing 895 inhabitants, deriving its name from having been constituted a free borough by Edward the First. It was originally a place of great importance, being the capital of the island, and was for many years the residence of the princes of North Wales, who had a palace here, where, or at Aberfraw, on the opposite side of the Malldraeth sands, they occasionally fixed their seat of government, as the exigences of that turbulent period might require. At the time of the first conquest of Wales by Edward the First, this place appears to have been the chief town in the island, as well as the seat of justice for the whole comot of Menai. In the reign of Henry the Seventh, upon a representation to that sovereign, the assizes and other county business were removed from Beaumaris to Newborough. Having, however, declined from its former importance, in the third year of Edward the Sixth, the assizes, sessions, and general county business were removed back to Beaumaris, where they have been continued ever since.
NEWMARKET,
(Flintshire.)
| Caerwys | 5 |
| Holywell | 7 |
| St. Asaph | 6 |
| Rhuddlan | 4 |
This village is situated about three miles to the right hand of the great Chester and Holyhead road, and within three miles of the estuary of the Dee.
The church is a small structure of modern date, standing within a spacious cemetery, in which are some fine lofty trees. On the south of the church, and not far distant from the principal entrance, stands a tall and very beautiful stone cross, the upper part finely sculptured in high relief. Here is built one of the charity schools, founded and opened in 1726, by Dr. Daniel Williams, a dissenting minister, with an annual endowment of £8, a charity which he extended to every county in North Wales, distinguishing that of Wrexham, the place of his birth, by an annual salary of £15.
The conjecture of the learned antiquarian, Mr. Pennant, that from the numerous tumuli and other sepulchral memorials visible in the neighbourhood, it was the scene of the slaughter of the Ordovices, by the Romans under Agricola, seems to be well founded.
Near the village is a hill called Cop ’r ’leni, on the summit of which is a most enormous carnedd or tumulus, formed of lime-stones. It covers nearly an acre of ground, and is in height from 20 to 30 yards. The most probable conjecture is, that it was erected over the remains of some distinguished warrior or chieftain, slain in battle, and in later times served as an observatory to discern the approach of an enemy, for which purpose it is well calculated, as it commands an extensive view both of the neighbouring encampments, and the estuaries of the Dee and Mersey.
A short distance from this place, on the brow of another hill, is Bryn-y-Saethau, or the Hill of Arrows, probably from being the station of the archers in the engagement: close to this is Bryn-y-Lladdfa, or the Hill of Slaughter, a name peculiarly appropriate to the site of a battle; a little below again is Pant-y-Gwae, or the Hollow of Woe.
Between Newmarket and Mostyn, about one mile and a half distance from the former place, there is on an elevation a singular monument, denominated Maen Achwynfan, or the Stone of Lamentation and Weeping, on which are cut some very curious figures; the height of the stone is twelve feet, and two feet four inches wide at the base; the form is that of an ancient obelisk.
A short time since one of the tumuli or barrows was opened in the presence of Mr. Morgan, of Golden Grove, and the Rev. Henry Parry, vicar of Llanasa, and was found to contain a quantity of bones and boars’ tusks, the latter in good preservation. An urn, nearly two feet in height, was struck upon, but through the precipitancy of the workmen employed on the occasion, was unfortunately broken to pieces.
NEWTOWN,
(Montgomeryshire.)
| Bishop’s Castle | 16 |
| Llanidloes | 14 |
| Llanfyllyn | 19 |
| London | 179 |
| Machynlleth | 30 |
| Welshpool | 14 |
Newtown, or as it is called by the Welsh Tre’-Newydd, is situated on the banks of the river Severn, on the road from Welshpool to Aberystwyth, and contains 3990 inhabitants.—The principal inns are the Boar and the Angel. Very little is known either of the origin or the early history of this place, which within the last fifty years, from the celebrity of its flannel manufacture, has risen into importance. A spacious hall has recently, been erected, from a design by Mr. Penson, in which the market for the staple commodity of the place is held, each alternate Thursday. Many factories have been established, which afford employment to more than two thousand persons.
A substantial bridge of stone over the Severn, called the Long Bridge, was completed in 1827, at a cost exceeding £4000: it consists of three arches of more than sixty feet span; the arches and the parapets being of grey free-stone, and the spears and spandrils of blue stone, found in the neighbourhood. A stone bridge of one arch was built in 1803, over the town brook, on the road to Welshpool, which, by way of distinction, is called the Short Bridge.
The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is an ancient structure. In the interior are some marble monuments, chiefly to the family of Price, of Newtown Hall. The environs abound with pleasing and romantic scenery, and a fine view of the town is obtained from the summits of the hills on the north and south sides. At the distance of about a mile and a half on the road to Built, there is a picturesque and beautiful spot, which is much resorted to by strangers; from the summit of a shelving mass of rock, eighty feet high, a stream of water rushes with impetuosity, forming in its descent a fine cascade, which winds at the base through a richly wooded glen.
Angling Stations.
| Distances from Newtown. | Miles. |
| Bettws | 4 |
| Llanmerewig | 4 |
| Llanwynog | 6 |
NORTHOP,
(Flintshire.)
| Chester | 11½ |
| Flint | 3 |
| Hawarden | 4½ |
| Holywell | 6 |
| London | 194 |
| Mold | 3 |
This is a large and pleasantly situated village, in a fertile part of the country, surrounded by numerous seats and elegant villas. The Welsh name is Llan-Eurgain, from the dedication of its first church to St. Eurgain, daughter of the Prince Maelgwyn Gwynedd, and niece of St. Asaph, the second bishop of the see, which from him derived its name.
The church, which has a noble tower, erected in 1571, stands on a small eminence, and is an irregular building, embattled in the front, and supported by clumsy buttresses. The interior length is 113 feet, and the breadth 38½ feet. There have been three dedications of Northop church; the first to St. Eurgain; the second to St. Mary; and the third to St. Peter. There are several remarkable monuments in this church.
The parish of Northop contains about 6000 acres of land, nearly the whole extent of which is in cultivation. The population of the parish in 1841 was 3566.
Coals are found in the lower parts of the parish, and some of the works have been extensively carried on for many years; large quantities are conveyed by iron rail-roads to Connah’s Quay, and there shipped for Chester, Liverpool, and Dublin. Lead ore is found, though not in great abundance, in the township of Caer Allwch.
OSWESTRY,
(Shropshire.)
| Chirk | 5 |
| Ellesmere | 8 |
| Llanfyllyn | 14 |
| Shrewsbury | 18 |
| Welshpool | 16 |
| Wrexham | 14 |
This town, though not situated in Wales, is so contiguous, that it is frequently visited by travellers, either on commencing or terminating their tour, Oswestry lying on the great line of road from Llangollen to Shrewsbury. The town occupies the declivity of a range of hills, which skirt it on the western side, and command an extensive view over the fertile plains of Salop. The streets are well paved and lighted: the old buildings of timber and brick have been succeeded by respectable modern edifices; and the town, which has long been stretched beyond its ancient boundaries, is still progressively increasing in extent and importance. The population of the parish by the last census was 8843.
OVERTON,
(Flintshire.)
| Ellesmere | 5 |
| Wrexham | 7 |
This is a neat little village, delightfully situated on the banks of the Dee, over which river is a handsome stone bridge of two lofty arches, connecting the counties of Denbigh and Flint, on the road from Chester to Shrewsbury. The surrounding scenery is beautifully picturesque. The village, with its venerable church, forms a pleasing and highly interesting feature in a charming landscape. In the churchyard are several fine yew trees. The site of the ancient castle occupies the brow of a lofty promontory overlooking the river Dee; and in the park of Gwernhaeled are the remains of a large circular camp, with an ancient tumulus. In this vicinity is the elegant seat of F. R. Price, Esq. Bryn-y-Pys.
Angling Station.—The Dee up to Llangollen.
PENMAEN MAWR,
(Caernarvonshire.)
| Aber | 4 |
| Bangor | 9 |
| Conway | 6 |
| Port Penrhyn | 8 |
Penmaen Mawr is an immense hill, and so denominated from being the last of the long chain of mountains which cross the country. This gigantic rock, along which the road from Chester to Holyhead passes, exhibits a fine contrast with the adjacent fertility, by its sterile grandeur. This place was once the dread of the neighbourhood, the immense promontory affording only a narrow zig-zag path along the shelf of its frowning side for the terrified traveller to pass. Under his feet were loose masses of rugged stones, impeding his progress; beneath, a hundred fathoms down, the roaring ocean foaming against the perpendicular base of the mountain; and over his head, the impending precipice, threatening by its shivering aspect to overwhelm or hurry him headlong down the craggy steep. The danger, from the declivity of the mountain, with the crumbling nature of the strata, increased with his progress, and, in several difficult parts of the road, one false step must have inevitably proved fatal.
From the numerous accidents that occurred, it was long an object of melancholy consideration to the inhabitants in the vicinity: the winter evenings were often spent in relating the alarming tales of the perils and disasters attendant on passing Penmaen Mawr. Modern science, however, has made travelling in this fearful district both safe and attractive. By order of the Parliamentary Commissioners, a new road was opened in 1827, by the celebrated Mr. Telford. And a capacious tunnel has been constructed for the Chester and Holyhead Railway, through the adjoining mountain of Penmaen Bach, which seemed to defy every attempt to pierce its gloomy recesses.
On the summit of a lull called Braich-y-Ddinas, rising out of Penmaen, are the ruins of a castle, the fortifications of which were capable of containing 20,000 men; the remains of walls are still standing, and a well that supplied the garrison is constantly full of water, furnished principally by the condensed vapour of the mountain. This was considered the strongest post possessed by the Britons in the district of Snowdon. It was deemed impregnable; and here the reduced bands of the brave Welsh army were posted, pending the negociation betwixt Edward I. and Llywelyn.
PENMORFA,
(Caernarvonshire.)
| Beddgelert | 7 |
| Pwllheli | 11 |
| Pont Aberglaslyn | 5½ |
| Tremadoc | 1 |
Penmorfa, or the Head of the Marsh, is a small wood-clad village, romantically situated on the western bank of Traeth Mawr, but is so much out of the way of tourists as to be seldom visited. The church is small, and dedicated to St. Beuno, having within a small monument to the memory of Sir John Owen, a general and supporter of Charles I., who, being taken prisoner at a battle near Bangor, was condemned to die by the Parliament; but through the intercession of Ireton, he was liberated after a few months’ imprisonment.
PENMYNYDD,
(Anglesea.)
| Beaumaris | 6 |
| Plas Newydd | 5 |
Penmynydd is situated on the eastern side of Anglesea, near the great post road from Bangor to Holyhead, six miles from the Menai Bridge. It is celebrated as being the native place of Owen Tudor.
PENTRE VOELAS,
(Denbighshire.)
| Capel Curig | 11 |
| Corwen | 15 |
| Denbigh | 18 |
| Ffestiniog | 14½ |
| Llanrwst | 11 |
| Maen-Twrog | 17 |
This is a small hamlet on the great London and Holyhead road, with a very comfortable inn. About four miles distant are the Conway waterfalls. A new road has lately been formed hence to Denbigh, and another to Ffestiniog.
PLAS NEWYDD,
(Anglesea.)
| Caernarvon | 6 |
| Llanidan | 3 |
Plas Newydd (the New Mansion), anciently Llwyn Moel (the Grove on the Hill), one of the principal groves in Anglesea, sacred to druidic worship, once the magnificent seat of the Marquis of Anglesea, but now occupied by T. Assheton Smith, Esq. of Vaenol. Caernarvonshire. It is beautifully situated on the curve of the Menai, protected on three sides by venerable oak trees, and about one hundred yards of the strait, with a fine lawn in front, sloping to the edge of the water, and defended from the encroachment of the sea by a strong parapet embattled wall.
Here the noble proprietor had the distinguished honour of entertaining his late Majesty George the Fourth, on his visit to Ireland in 1821; and also, at the invitation of the Noble Marquis, who was then exercising his official duties as Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, her Royal Highness the Duchess of Kent and her illustrious daughter, the Princess (now Queen) Victoria, took up their residence for several weeks in the summer of 1822, during the time of holding the Eisteddfod at Beaumaris, where they visited and occasionally resided.
Opposite the stables, behind the house, stands the most complete cromlech in Anglesea, perhaps in Britain; and the domains abound with most interesting vestiges of antiquity.
A short distance from Plas Newydd, is Mr. Saunderson’s beautiful cottage, in the formation and embellishment of which that gentleman has displayed peculiar taste; and about half a mile to the west, within the park, is Plasgwyn, the seat of the lute Rev. Henry Rowlands, and also Llanidan Hall, the seat of Lord Boston.
On Craig-y-Dinas, a rock on the side of the London and Holyhead road, about midway between the Menai bridge and Plas Newydd, stands the Anglesea Column, erected to commemorate the exploits of the noble marquis. The first stone was laid June 18, 1816, being the anniversary of the battle of Waterloo; and the pillar was completed September 8 in the following year. Its height from the base is 100 feet, and the summit of the hill on which it is built rises 260 feet above the level of the sea. It forms an interesting and commanding object in the romantic scenery of the neighbourhood.
PONT-Y-GLYN,
(Denbighshire.)
| Bala | 12 |
| Corwen | 6 |
Pont-y-Glyn (the Bridge of the Precipices) is situated on the great Holyhead and London road, between Corwen and Cerniogan Mawr. The woody glen, at the head of which stands Pont-y-Glyn, with its prominent rocks, nearly obscured by the surrounding foliage, forms a lovely picture. On a sudden turn of the road, stands the bridge thrown over a chasm. Beneath is the rugged and precipitous bed of the river, where, among immense masses and fragments of rocks, the stream foams with violent impetuosity. The cataract is not lofty, but from its being directly under the bridge, where it is seen dashing among the dark opposing rocks, with the addition of the pendant foliage from each side, the scene is finely picturesque and elegant. The bridge rests upon the two nearly perpendicular rocks, and appears to be 50 or 60 feet above the bed of the stream. The view thence down the hollow is truly sublime.
PWLLHELI
(Caernarvonshire.)
| Caernarvon | 20 |
| Chester | 93 |
| Cricaeth | 8 |
| London | 250 |
| Nevyn | 7 |
Pwllheli, or the Salt Water Pit, is a pleasant market-town and sea-port, the population of which is about 1500. The market is held on Wednesday and Saturday. The Crown and Anchor, where post-chaises may be had, is accounted the principal inn; the Ship and Ivy Bush are respectable. The town, which is well built, has become a place of some resort for bathing. The parish church, which is situated about half a mile to the north of the town, is small and dilapidated. A new church, dedicated to St. Peter, was consecrated by the Bishop of Bangor September 16th, 1834. It is a neat and chaste edifice, capable of accommodating a large congregation. Two banks have branches here, the North and South Wales and the National Provincial.
The town-hall, erected in 1818, is a neat substantial edifice, the lower part of which is appropriated on market-days as shambles, and the upper part contains an excellent assembly room, and a room in which the petty sessions are held. The commerce consists entirely in the importation of coal and of shop goods from Liverpool, for the supply of which to the surrounding country Pwllheli forms a great depôt, and is esteemed the cheapest place for living in North Wales. This is one of the contributory boroughs which, with Caernarvon, returns a member to parliament.—The surrounding scenery comprehends many pictures of grandeur and of beauty; and a view from the town, embracing the whole extent of the Snowdon mountains, the Merionethshire hills, and Cardigan bay, is truly magnificent. Several improvements are in progress at Pwllheli.
RHUDDLAN,
(Flintshire.)
| Abergele | 5 |
| Flint | 16 |
| Holywell | 11 |
| London | 220 |
Rhuddlan contains, with the chapelry of Rhyl, 2415 inhabitants. The town lies in a flat, on the eastern hank of the river Clwyd, about two miles from its influx into the sea. The river is here a little extended in width, so as, at high water, to admit vessels of 50 tons up to the bridge.
Rhuddlan was formerly a place of considerable magnitude, but no traces of its former importance are left, except in the ruins of its ancient castle. Edward the First annexed to it the privileges of a free borough, to facilitate an intercourse between the Welsh and English, for the purpose of allaying the rooted enmity and the unhappy jealousies that had for centuries rent the two countries. In all his proceedings, this monarch exhibited strong features of policy. He had been early taught that when stratagem would supply the place of men and treasure, it was at least wise, if not always just, to adopt it. Hence originated the statute of Rhuddlan, and hence was his infant son proclaimed Prince of Wales. This statute, which was passed in parliament assembled here in the year 1283, contains a set of regulations for the government of Wales; it also recites many curious particulars relative to the Welsh customs previous to Edward’s conquest, against which it was in a great measure directed.
Betwixt the town and the sea is a large marsh called Morva Rhuddlan (the Marsh of Rhuddlan), where, in the year 725, a dreadful battle was fought between the Saxons, under Offa, king of Mercia, and the Welsh, in which the latter, after an obstinate conflict, were defeated with great slaughter, Carodoc, king of North Wales, and many of his principal chieftains, being among the slain. Such of the Welsh as escaped the sword of the enemy, perished in the marsh, from the influx of the tides; and all who were taken prisoners were inhumanly massacred, without regard to age or sex. In commemoration of this disastrous event, was composed the well-known Welsh air of “Morva Rhuddlan,” which is much admired for the plaintive sweetness of its melody.
The bridge at Rhuddlan consists of two arches, built or rebuilt in 1595, with an impression of the arms of Hughes, Bishop of St. Asaph, upon one of the battlements.
At a private house is shewn part of the building where Edward the First held the parliament which passed the statute of Rhuddlan, in 1283; the observation of the tourist will be directed to it by the following inscription on the building:—“This fragment is the remains of the building where King Edward the First held his parliament, A.D. 1283, in which was passed the statute of Rhuddlan, securing the Principality its judicial rights and independence.”
Rhuddlan Castle
is built of red stone, nearly square, and has six towers. The principal entrance appears to have been at the north-west angle, betwixt two round towers; the two opposite to these are much shattered, but the others are in a better state of preservation. There is some difference of opinion as to the period at which this castle was erected. Two celebrated historians, Powel and Camden, attribute it to Llywelyn ap Sitsyllt, who reigned in Wales at the commencement of the eleventh century, and made it the place of his residence. In 1063, three years before William the Conqueror came to the throne, Rhuddlan castle was in the possession of Gruffydd ap Llywelyn, prince of North Wales. It was in that year attacked and burnt by Harold, the son of Godwin, Earl of Kent (afterwards King of England), in retaliation for some depredations committed by the Welsh on the English borders. It was subsequently the scene of many interesting historical events.
In 1399, the castle was seized by the Earl of Northumberland, previous to the deposition of Richard the Second, who dined here, in company with the Earl, in his way to Flint, where he was treacherously delivered into the power of his rival, Bolingbroke.
In the civil wars, Rhuddlan was garrisoned for the King, but was surrendered to General Mytton in July, 1646, and in the December following was ordered by the parliament to be dismantled.—It is at present the property of the Bodryddan family.
Angling Station.—Cwm, three miles from Rhuddlan.
RHYL,
(Flintshire.)
| Abergele | 8 |
| Chester | 30 |
| Holywell | 13 |
| St. Asaph | 5 |
Rhyl is situated at the termination of the Vale of Clwyd, near the mouth of the river from which that beautiful valley takes its name, and is much frequented as a bathing place during the summer months, for which purpose, both from its immediate contiguity to the sea, and the extent and firmness of its sands, it is admirably adapted. There are excellent and commodious hotels, with smaller inns and lodging houses, intermingled with several neat cottages, occupied for the summer residences of some of the wealthy neighbours. There are machines for the accommodation of bathers, and hot and cold baths, supplied with sea water, to which are attached billiard and news rooms, and a spacious bowling green.
A church has been erected, capable of containing 500 persons, in which there is Divine service in the English language every Sunday. Steam-packets ply regularly from Rhyl to Liverpool three times a week, and occasionally from Rhyl to Beaumaris, affording its visitors an opportunity of seeing some of the magnificent scenery of the Welsh coast. Cars may be obtained at any time from the principal inns, and there is an omnibus on the Voryd side, which runs regularly from Abergele, to meet the packets. Extensive and important local improvements have lately been effected, to add to the attractions of Rhyl as a marine residence.
The shore presents no very striking scenery; still the antique castle of Rhuddlan, in its sober hues, and the dark range of Clwydian hills, stretching far into the distance, afford a scene of no ordinary beauty. To the south is seen the bold promontory of the Great Ormeshead, beyond which is Puffin Island; and when days are bright and skies are clear, the distant hills of Cumberland may be dimly seen, losing themselves beyond the waters of the Irish Sea.—Provisions of all kinds are cheap; and milk, vegetables, and poultry, are abundantly supplied by the neighbouring farmers. The lover of angling may find an opportunity of enjoying his favourite amusement, as the Clwyd and Elwy, both celebrated trout streams, are within one hour’s walk.
RUABON,
(Denbighshire.)
| Chirk | 4½ |
| Denbigh | 28 |
| Llangollen | 7 |
| Wrexham | 5½ |
Ruabon, or Rhiw-abon, is a village containing about 1300 inhabitants, situated on the road from Oswestry to Wrexham and Chester. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is an interesting and venerable structure, in which are several splendid marble monuments. There is one by Rhysbrac, to the memory of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, who was killed by a fall from his horse, on the 26th of September, 1749, aged 41 years; the figure is in a graceful attitude, as in the act of addressing an assembly. An elegant Latin inscription, the composition of the late Dr. King, of St. Mary’s Hall, Oxford, enumerates in eloquent detail his mental abilities, social qualities, and public and private virtues.
There are likewise two monuments by Nollekens, one to the memory of the late Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart., and the other to his wife, Lady Rennetta Williams Wynn. The latter represents that amiable lady in the character of Hope, standing and reclining on an urn. The countenance, attitude, and drapery, are exquisitely fine. The figure stands on a pedestal, on which, in high relievo, is a coiled serpent, hieroglyphical of eternity; and within is an inscription indicating that her ladyship was third daughter of Charles Noel, Duke of Beaufort, and died July 25, 1769, at the early age of 23. The church was thoroughly repaired in 1772, at the expense of the first Sir Watkin, who presented an organ and a small but elegant font of white marble, on the occasion of the baptism of his eldest son, the late baronet. Dr. David Powel, the Welsh historian, who was instituted to this vicarage in the year 1571, was interred here.
In the neighbourhood are numerous iron works and collieries. The British iron company has very extensive works at Acrevair, in which several hundred men are constantly employed. There are considerable coal works at Cefn-Mawr, a large and populous village on the northern bank of the Dee, near an elegant bridge thrown over the river, called New Bridge. The Eagles or Wynnstay Arms Inn is a respectable house. Ruabon is one of the principal stations of the Shrewsbury and Chester Railway.—A short distance from the inn is
Wynnstay.
This extensive park, which is twelve miles in circumference, is entered from the village by a plain but handsome gateway of modern erection, opening into a straight avenue, nearly a mile in length, composed of lofty trees of ancient growth, in which venerable oaks, stately elms, beeches, and chesnuts, are intermingled; and at the extremity of which is the mansion, the hospitable residence of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart., beautifully situated on a fine and extensive lawn, gently sloping to a noble and picturesque lake. The older portion of the building contains the domestic offices and general departments for the accommodation of the household. The modern part, erected by the first Sir Watkin, and enlarged by the late baronet, is spacious and substantial structure: the interior comprises several noble apartments, embellished with some excellent family portraits, by Sir Joshua Reynolds and some of the best masters, two full length paintings of Charles II. and his Queen, and several other pictures of merit.
The park is enriched with some of the noblest trees in the Principality, and comprehends much variety and beauty of scenery: there are handsome lodge entrances into it from various parts of the surrounding district.
At a short distance from the hall, situated in charming pleasure grounds, is a cold bath, near which stands a handsome fluted column, erected after a design by the late Mr. James Wyatt: it is one hundred feet high, ornamented on the faces with festooned wreaths of oak leaves, and at the angles with eagles, finely moulded in bronze; the capital is surmounted by an entablature supporting a circular platform, surrounded with an iron balustrade, to which there is an ascent from the interior by a flight of spiral steps, and having in the centre a circular pedestal, twelve feet high, on which is placed a massive vase of bronze, enriched with goats’ heads. Over the door leading to the ascent, is a tablet bearing the following inscription:—“To the memory of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart. who died on the 29th of July, MDCCLXXXIX. this column was erected by his affectionate mother, Frances Williams Wynn;” and on the north side, in letters of copper, is the inscription—“Filium optimus. Mater, eheu! superstes.” Near this column is a fine sheet of water, bounded by Watt’s Dyke, which here intersects the park, and from which the mansion originally derived the name of Wattstay, changed by Sir John Wynn, to its present appellation.
Near the southern extremity of the woods is a cenotaph, erected by the late Sir Watkin, from a design by Sir Jeffrey Wyatville, to the memory of his brother officers and soldiers who were slain during the rebellion in Ireland in 1798: it stands on an eminence overlooking a deep ravine, called Nant y Bele (the Dingle of the Marten), through which the river Dee urges it rapid course along a narrow channel, richly fringed with impending woods. From this spot there is a most magnificent prospect, embracing a vast extent of the counties of Caernarvon, Denbigh, Flint, Chester, and Salop, Chirk Castle and its noble park, the whole of the beautiful vale of Llangollen, including the stupendous aqueduct of Pont-y-Cysylltau, and the majestic ruins of Castell Dinas Brân, with the stately range of mountains in the distance.
A gay archery fête of the British Bowmen, attended by 300 of the aristocracy of the kingdom, was held at Wynnstay in 1846.
Angling Station.—The Dee.
RUTHIN,
(Denbighshire.)
| Bala | 22 |
| Chester | 22 |
| Corwen | 12 |
| Denbigh | 8 |
| Llangollen | 15 |
| London | 210 |
| Mold | 10 |
| St. Asaph | 14 |
| Wrexham | 18 |
Ruthin (Rhudd-ddin or Rhuthyn) is beautifully situated on the aclivity of an eminence in the picturesque Vale of Clwyd, at the base of which and through the lower part of the town flows the river from which the vale takes its name, at this place an inconsiderable stream, serving only to work some mills in the neighbourhood. The parish contains 3333 inhabitants. The appearance of the town is pleasing, and the neighbourhood is embellished with numerous gentlemen’s seats, and commands much varied scenery. The principal inns are the White Lion and Cross Foxes.
The government of Ruthin is vested in a municipal corporation. It is one of the contributory boroughs, with Denbigh, Holt, and Wrexham, to return a member to parliament. Ruthin has been made a polling-place in the election of knights of the shire; and from its central situation, it has been selected, in preference to the town of Denbigh, for holding the assizes for the county: the quarter sessions are held alternately here and at Denbigh. The town-hall, situated in the market-place, was built in 1663, and is used for holding the courts leet and baron. Prior to the erection of the county-hall, the quarter sessions were held there. The county-hall is a modern structure, fronted with white stone, and, with the county gaol and house of correction, also situated here, is highly creditable to the skill of the architect, Mr. Turner.
The church is an interesting and ancient structure, with a fine roof of carved oak, panelled, richly sculptured, and apparently of the time of Henry the Seventh. The church was changed into a collegiate chapter A.D. 1310, by John de Grey, who formed an establishment of several regular canons, and endowed it with valuable lands and numerous privileges. The apartments of the canons were connected with the church by a cloister, of which a remaining portion has been converted into a residence for the warden.
The town contains an endowed free grammar school, a national school supported by voluntary subscriptions, and places of worship for various dissenting congregations.—The present rector is the Venerable Archdeacon Newcome, author of Memoirs of Dr. Goodman, Dean of Westminster, and Dr. Godfrey Goodman, Bishop of Gloucester, and also of some local histories.
The ancient castle occupied the declivity of a hill, fronting the Vale of Clwyd towards the west, and, from the extensive foundations and remaining portions of the walls, appears to have been a structure of great strength and magnificence: the remains consist chiefly of fragments of the towers, dungeons, and ruined walls. This fortress was built by Edward the First, who in 1281 gave it, with the hundred of Dyffryn Clwyd, to Reginald de Grey; from the family of Greys it devolved to Richard Earl of Kent, who sold it to Henry the Seventh. It was afterwards granted to Dudley Earl of Warwick, by Queen Elizabeth. After the restoration, the castle and its dependencies were purchased by Sir Richard Myddelton.
The elegant castellated mansion erected by the Hon. F. West, within the ruins of the old castle, forms a beautiful feature in the prospect of the town. The architect having blended the ancient and modern parts with harmonious effect, the structure displays great taste on the part of the projector. From various parts of the site are several rich and extensive prospects. No tourist should omit a visit to Ruthin Castle, which abounds with objects of interest to the student of British history.
Near the town-hall is a rude block of lime-stone, called Maen Huail, on which, it is said, the celebrated Prince Arthur beheaded his rival Huail, brother to Gildas the historian. Ruthin mill, a curious ancient edifice, having on the apex of the eastern gable a red stone cross, is supposed to have been originally the chapel of the cell of White Friars, mentioned by Leland as formerly existing here, but of which no records are preserved.
Dr. Goodman, Dean of Westminster, one of the translators of Archbishop Parker’s Bible, and principal promoter of Bishop Morgan’s Welsh translation; Edward Thelwall, tutor to Lord Herbert of Chirbury; Dr. Parry, Bishop of St. Asaph; Dr. Goodman, Bishop of Gloucester; Sir Eubule Thelwall, Knt., principal and second founder of Jesus College, Oxford; and Sir Thomas Exmewe, Lord Mayor of London in 1517, were natives of this place.
Vale of Clwyd.
This beautiful valley, called by the Welsh Dyffryn Clwyd (the Vale of the Flat), commences three or four miles south of Ruthin; enclosed by mountains, whose brown and barren summits form a fine contrast to the verdant meads and luxuriant fields beneath, which as far as the eye can reach present a most pleasing picture. Towns, villages, and mansions, thickly studded over the country, tend still more to enliven the cheering scene, which is exceedingly beautiful and attractive.
This vale is the most extensive of any in Wales, being about twenty-four miles in length, above Ruthin to Rhuddlan, and varying from five to seven miles in breadth; it contains the three considerable towns of Denbigh, Ruthin, and St. Asaph. There are several of the adjacent heights whence the vale may be seen to advantage; such are the Bwlch Pen-Barras, on the old road to Mold, about four miles from Ruthin, and that part of the new road by which the traveller descends into the vale, commencing about three miles from the latter town; but the best station for an extended view, is the eastern ridge of the mountain, between Dymeirchion and Bodfari, about three hundred yards from Bryn Bella. The view presents a most enchanting panorama of natural scenery.
Angling Station.—The Clwyd.
ST. ASAPH,
(Flintshire.)
| Abergele | 7 |
| Conway | 18 |
| Chester | 28 |
| Denbigh | 6 |
| Holywell | 10 |
| London | 217 |
| Rhuddlan | 3 |
St. Asaph, commonly called Llan Elwy, derived its origin and name from the erection of a church on the bank of the river Elwy, about the middle of the sixth century. The city is beautifully situated on the gentle aclivity of an eminence, washed on the eastern side by the river Clwyd, and on the west by the Elwy, which unite at the distance of about a mile to the north. The parish contains 3338 inhabitants. Over the Elwy, at the extremity of the principal street, is a handsome stone bridge of five arches; and over the Clwyd is a fine bridge of more modern erection, within a quarter of a mile to the east of the cathedral church. The White Lion and the Mostyn Arms are the principal inns. St. Asaph has been added to the other boroughs of this county, now eight in number, which unitedly return one member to parliament.
The approach from Holywell to St. Asaph is commodious and picturesque. The view of the city is peculiarly striking; its elevated situation on an eminence near the termination of the rich and fertile Vale of Clwyd, crowned on the summit with the cathedral, and having the parish church at its base, makes it a conspicuous object from every point; and the luxuriant groves of trees in which it is deeply embosomed, give to it a romantic appearance. The surrounding scenery, which abounds with objects of interest and beauty, is seen to great advantage from the heights of the city and from the grounds in the immediate vicinity.
The cathedral consists chiefly of the structure raised by Bishop Anian, the second of that name, about the year 1284, and after its demolition by Owen Glyndwr, it was restored by Bishop Redman, towards the close of the fifteenth century, with the exception of the choir, which was rebuilt about the year 1770, by the Dean and Chapter, with funds which had been vested in their hands as trustees for that purpose. It is a cruciform structure, principally in the decorated style of English architecture, with a low square embattled tower, rising from the intersection of the nave and transepts, and having at the north-east angle a staircase turret: the exterior is of simple but good design; the buttresses are few and of very bold character, and the arch of the west door is plainly moulded: the east end is ornamented with a window, which is said to be a fac-simile of the east window in Tintern abbey, in Monmouthshire, and in 1810 was filled with beautifully stained glass, at the expense of the Dean and Chapter, aided by the contributions of the gentry in the neighbourhood. The “good Bishop Beveridge” was consecrated to this see in 1704.
The interior of the cathedral contains some interesting monuments; an altar-tomb, with a recumbent figure in episcopal robes, is said to commemorate the munificent prelate, Davydd ab Owen, who was interred here in 1512; and near the west door is a painted tomb, with an inscription to the memory of Bishop Isaac Barrow, who died in 1680. There is a monument of white marble, to the memory of Dean Shipley, by Ternouth, erected by subscription about the year 1829, at an expense of £600, consisting of a full-length figure of the Dean in his canonicals, in a sitting posture; and also a neat altar-tomb monument to the memory of Bishop Luxmore, who died in January, 1830, from a design by T. Jones, Esq. of Chester. Among other objects of interest to admirers of taste and genius, we may mention a mural tablet to the memory of that charming poetess, the gifted Mrs. Hemans. The choir is neatly fitted up, and the general appearance of the interior remarkably gratifying, from its appropriate solemnity and the excellent order in which it is kept. A new organ was erected a few years since.
The episcopal palace, situated at a short distance to the west of the cathedral, was rebuilt upon a more extensive scale and in an appropriate style, at the expense of the late Bishop. The deanery, about a quarter of a mile from the cathedral, and on the west bank of the river Elwy, was also rebuilt by the present Dean. Dr. T. V. Short is the present Bishop of St. Asaph. The parochial church, dedicated to St. Asaph and St. Kentegern, is situated at the base of the eminence, of which the cathedral occupies the summit; it is a small edifice without a tower, and is supposed to have been erected about the year 1524. There are places of worship for Independents, and Calvinistic and Wesleyan Methodists.
The views in the neighbourhood are delightfully picturesque and varied.
There are numerous elegant mansions within the parish; among the most conspicuous are—Kinmel, the seat of Lord Dinorben; Bodelwyddan, the seat of Sir John Williams, Bart., one of the handsomest residences of North Wales; Pengwern, that of Lord Mostyn, built about the beginning of the last century; Cefn, that of Edward Lloyd, Esq.; and Bronwylfa, the residence of Colonel Sir Henry Browne, erected in the year 1660, and enlarged in 1816. In this last mansion are some valuable trophies taken during the late war, amongst which are, Napoleon Buonaparte’s travelling map and book of roads of the French empire, in splendid morocco cases, emblazoned with the imperial arms, taken from his library at Fontainbleau, by Sir Henry, in 1815 and a French field-marshal’s baton, two feet three inches in length, covered with purple velvet, ornamented with golden bees, and surmounted with an imperial crown, taken in Silesia, in 1812, by a division of Blucher’s corps.
In the township of Cefn Meriadog are some magnificent natural caverns, extending for a considerable distance into the limestone rocks; in some parts of those the roof is more than forty feet in height, and near the river Elwy the base of the rock is perforated by a lofty natural arch, 21 yards in length, and 36 feet high, through which is a road capable of admitting a wagon loaded with hay. Various fossil remains have been found in these caverns, which have been considered by Professor Buckland as worthy of a personal scrutiny on the spot.
Angling Station.—Bodfari, four miles from St. Asaph.
SNOWDON,
(Caernarvonshire.)
A chain of the highest mountains in Wales extends across Caernarvonshire, from Bardsey Island to Penmaen Bach, near Conway bay, gradually rising from each extremity towards the centre, which is occupied by Snowdon. The name of this mountain was first given to it by the Saxons, and signifies a hill covered with snow; but the Welsh call all this adjacent range Creigian-yr-Eyri (the Eagle’s Cliffs;) for it is not true, as has been asserted, that snow may be found upon it through the whole year. The temperature at the summit is generally very low, even in summer. In July, just after sunrise, the thermometer has been observed at 34 deg. and in August at 48 deg. early in the afternoon.
The perpendicular height of Snowdon is by late admeasurements 1190 yards above the level of the sea. This makes it, according to Pennant, 240 yards higher than Cader Idris. Some state Whernside, in Yorkshire, to be the highest mountain in South Britain, and more than 4000 feet. Helvelyn is 3324 feet, Benlomond 3262. Mont Blanc rises 15,680 feet; the American Chimboraco is 20,909 feet, the highest ground ever trodden by man; and the mountain of Thibet above 25,000 feet, the highest at present known.
The air on the top of Snowdon is sharp and bracing, and like that in all other mountain districts, is salubrious and congenial to health and longevity. It is seldom that persons who have taste and leisure visit this part of Caernarvonshire without ascending to the top of our British Alps; and those who make a tour from motives of curiosity would think the omission almost inexcusable. An important consideration for the tourist is the point whence he should commence the ascent for the towering summit of this majestic mountain. Dolbadarn, Llyn Cwellyn, Beddgelert, and Llanberis, all put in their claims for eligibility as a starting-place, and at each of these stations trusty guides may be engaged. We are inclined to the opinion that the Victoria Hotel at Llanberis is the spot from which the most easy and convenient ascent may be effected.
It may readily be imagined that every resting point in climbing this commanding eminence must reveal, amidst the magnificent scenery of so romantic a district, views of surpassing grandeur and beauty: and such indeed is the case to an extent which the most vivid imagination can scarcely conceive. The enthusiastic author of “The Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimity of Nature,” gives the following glowing description of the prospects from the summit:—
“After climbing over masses of crags and rocks, we ascended the peak of Snowdon. Arrived at its summit, a scene presented itself magnificent beyond the powers of language! Indeed, language is indigent and impotent when it would presume to sketch scenes on which the Great Eternal has placed his matchless finger with delight. Faint are thy broad and deep delineations, immortal Salvator Rosa! Powerless and feeble are your inspirations, genius of Thomson, Virgil, and Lucretius! From this point are seen five-and-twenty lakes. Seated on one of its crags, it was long before the eye, unaccustomed to measure such elevations, could accommodate itself to scenes so admirable; the whole appearing as if there had been a war of the elements, and as if we were the only inhabitants of the globe permitted to contemplate the ruins of the world. Rocks and mountains, which, when observed from below, bear all the evidence of sublimity, when viewed from the summit of Snowdon, are blended with others as dark, as rugged, and as elevated as themselves; the whole resembling the swellings of an agitated ocean. The extent of this prospect appears almost unlimited. The four kingdoms are seen at once: Wales, England, Scotland, and Ireland! forming the finest panorama the empire can boast. The circle begins with the mountains of Cumberland and Westmoreland; those of Ingleborough and Penygent, in the county of York, and the hills of Lancashire forefollow; then are observed the counties of Chester, Flint, Denbigh, and a portion of Montgomeryshire. Nearly the whole of Merioneth succeeds; and drawing a line with the eye along the diameter of the circle, we take in the regions stretching from the triple crown of Cader Idris to the sterile crags of Carnedds David and Llywelyn. Snowdon, rising in the centre, appears as if he could touch the south with his right hand, and the north with his left. ‘Surely,’ thought Colonna, ‘Cesar sat upon these crags, when he formed the daring conception of governing the world!’ From Cader Idris, the eye, pursuing the orbit of the bold geographical line, glances over the bay of Cardigan, and reposes for a while on the summit of the Rivals. After observing the indented shores of Caernarvonshire, it travels along a line of ocean, till, in the extremity of the horizon, the blue mountains of Wicklow terminate the perspective. Those mountains gradually sink along the coast till they are lost to the eye; which, ranging along the expanse, at length, as weary of the journey, reposes on the Island of Man, and the distant mountains of Scotland. The intermediate space is occupied by the sides and summits of mountains, hollow crags, masses of rocks, the towers of Caernarvon, the fields of Anglesea, with woods, lakes, and glens, scattered in magnificent confusion. A scene like this commands our feelings to echo, as it were, in unison to its grandeur and sublimity: the thrill of astonishment, and the transport of imagination, seem to contend for the mastery, and nerves are touched that never thrilled before.”
But it is not always thus. Earthly pleasures are often greater in the anticipation than the enjoyment; and ardent hopes are subject to occasional disappointments. Bright as the day may be, mountain mists will sometimes intervene, and passing clouds suddenly draw a curtain over these glorious revelations of Almighty Power. Take, for instance, the narrative of the King of Saxony’s ascent up Snowdon in July, 1844, his Majesty’s excursion being made from Beddgelert:—
“Early this morning, according to our previous design, we made the ascent of Snowdon: the appearance of the weather was by no means encouraging, the sky was lowering, and the clouds hung deep around the mountain top. Still there was no rain, many signs of a favourable change, and we took our chance of the advantages in our favour and set out. We made early preparation for our journey, and, at seven o’clock, mounted a light carriage, accompanied by a skilful guide. We followed the road towards the foot of the mountain, as far up its flank as it was accessible to any description of carriage. We commenced the ascent. Our path lay for some distance over wet pasture and spongy meadows; after which, the path became steeper, and occasional masses of bold projecting rocks occurred. We were not the only travellers, whom the day tempted to try their good fortune on the summit of the highest mountain in England. Some ladies, mounted on ponies, rode sometimes before and sometimes behind us, and several parties followed them on foot. The summit of the mountain lay concealed in clouds; the rocks stood forth bold and black from the green of the Alpine meadows, on which the beautiful yellow anthericum ossifragum grows in great profusion, and a cold wind blew from the ravines which skirted our path. A young Alpine lark, only imperfectly fledged, fluttered along the ground before our feet; our guide easily caught it with his hands, but the old ones flew around, uttering such painful screams, that I induced him again to put the poor panting little creature upon the grass, behind a large block of stone. When we ascended a little further, the view to the westward became partially free, and we saw the sea, the isle of Anglesea, and Caernarvon Castle. As we ascended, however, the clouds again closed around us, and finally we found ourselves completely enveloped in the penetrating fog of these moist goddesses. The ascent also in many places now became difficult; the wind blew cold along the side of some rocky walls, or from the depths of some neighbouring ravine; the thick fogs continued to roll more densely along the mountain sides; but fortunately, so far, they did not thoroughly penetrate our clothes with their moisture.
“Still onward, from height to height! deep ravines lay at our side, the bottom of which, filled with thick fog, yawned horribly below. Vegetation now almost wholly disappeared, except merely a few rare Alpine plants, and on every side of us rose lofty crags of black chlorite slate. Having taken some repose after the efforts of the ascent, behind a projecting rock which sheltered us from the wind, we again set forth, and in about a quarter of an hour (two hours in all) we reached the pinnacle of the mountain—4348 feet above the level of the sea. View there was none! We found refuge in a small wooden shed, erected for the protection of travellers from the rain and wind, in which the host kept up a welcome fire. The man presently prepared a singular brown mixture, which he sold for coffee, and furnished some grayish oatmeal cake as an accompaniment. There were no spirituous liquors of any description to be had, because the occupier, with no small degree of self-satisfaction, gave us to understand that his wooden hut was to be regarded as a Temperance Inn. Not far from this mountain hotel, which I must state to be the first imperfect house of accommodation we had yet met in England, was a small stone hut, in which the rest of the travellers, together with their ponies, had found a harbour not much better than our own.
“Having spent some time upon the summit, dried ourselves, and ranged about among the craggy rocks and through the fog, we found our visit was in vain—no hopes of the weather clearing were longer entertained, and we prepared to proceed on our descent. Before we had descended far from the summit, the clouds presented occasional breaks, and we were able to snatch partial views into the beautiful deep valleys which lie between the converging ridges of the mountain; and on one occasion the clouds rose like a curtain, and revealed to us a splendid prospect of the sea. In these occasional glimpses, we perceived for a moment that the declivities of the mountain were enjoying the full beams of the sun, and immediately we were again closely enveloped in our foggy mantle of clouds. There was a continual play of currents of air and waves of fog with the earth. Such phenomena furnish highly interesting subjects of contemplation to those who have greater leisure for their contemplation than we ourselves had. Of such extraordinary atmospheric phenomena, however, it may be said, they show the life of the clouds, but cloud the image of life! If, however, the observation of such phenomena be made the chief object of a whole excursion, they will be found to have something in them unsatisfying. The unconscious life of nature always falls in value in the eyes of him who has thought upon and experienced the mighty movements and impulses of the mind and feelings. As I have already said, what signify earth, and suns, and planets, if there were no eye to see, no intelligence to give them life?
“Having proceeded somewhat further on the descent, our guide prepared to follow a different route in our return, through a deep precipitous valley, in which the king immediately acquiesced. The task, however, was by no means easy; it involved the necessity of going straight down a sharp declivity of the mountain, at least 1000 feet high, and very sparingly covered with moist earth and tufts of grass. We were obliged to aid ourselves as well as we could by the firmness of our tread, taking a zigzag course, and by the appliances of our hands and sticks, at length reached the bottom in safety. The path, however formidable to us, would, undoubtedly, not have presented many difficulties to a well-trained Alpine hunter; to those, however, who are not accustomed to such clambering, it must be regarded as making a severe demand upon the exercise of their muscular power, and as a species of training which, when successfully completed, must always result in good. Even on reaching the valley, there was no path, and we were obliged to make our way over stock and stone, through bog and brook, till we came to a lower and a smoother region. During our descent, we were obliged to endure the alternative of heat and cold, of sunshine and rain; at length we reached some mines, at which rude paths began to appear, and presently after found ourselves at our carriages, and drove by another road again back to Beddgelert. On this road, too, we enjoyed the sight of some splendid mountain scenery. The weather had now become clear and sunny, while the top of Snowdon still lay thickly enveloped in masses of dark clouds. A small lake lay stretched out before us in the vale, full of picturesque beauty, and noble mountains beside and beyond, rose and towered one above another. I heartily envied an artist who had established his studio on the edge of a mountain brook, and appeared to be diligently engaged in his work. What a pleasure it must be, to be engaged in an attempt to give a faithful delineation of such noble forms! About half-past two we reached the hotel at Beddgelert, and our mountain excursion was at an end.”
Let us be very earnest in impressing upon the minds of all tourists one important injunction,—never ascend Snowdon without a guide. It is unwise and perilous, even in the brightest weather, to make such an attempt. A melancholy instance of this venturous spirit occurred in the autumn of 1846, when the Rev. H. S. Starr, of Northampton, ascended the mountain without a guide; and doubtless perished in some of its bogs or precipitous defiles, as from that period till now, no trace of this unfortunate clergyman has been discovered.
For Angling Stations, see Llanberis.
TAL-Y-LLYN,
(Merionethshire.)
| Dolgelley | 8 |
| Dinas Mowddwy | 11 |
| Machynlleth | 8 |
| Towyn | 10 |
This is a very picturesque little village, about half way between Machynlleth and Dolgelley, deriving its name from the church, at the head of a beautiful lake, appropriately called Llyn Mwyngil, (The Lake of the Charming Retreat,) from the west end of which issues the river Dysyni, taking its course to the sea through Towyn Marsh. The scenery is remarkably romantic, and is rendered more so by the lakes which are within the limits of the parish. That of Tal-y-llyn is small but beautiful; its greatest breadth is not more than half a mile, and its length between one and two miles. Its northern boundaries consist of rich pasture land, while on the south a high green hill, covered only with short herbage, in fact a mere sheep walk, rears itself to the clouds, and extends the whole length. Its only piscatory productions are trout and eels; the latter attaining a good size, and finding a safe protection in the deep coat of moss which covers the bottom. Of the trout there are two species, the large lake trout and the common river trout, the latter finding their way into the lake by two or three streams which feed it from the mountain; these never attain any considerable size, but the others, being indigenous to the pool, grow to a large size. The finest, which are caught with a fly, vary from half a pound to between one and two pounds; one weighing more than 12lb. was found a few winters ago, frozen under the ice. The lake is the property of Colonel Vaughan, who purchased it for no other purpose than that of affording his friends the enjoyment of angling therein. The stranger, who is perfectly unknown to the generous-hearted Welshman, is equally welcome to participate in the sport, without the formality of begging a day’s fishing, or even intimating his intention to the proprietor. A new and commodious inn, near the village, was built last year by Colonel Vaughan: it affords good accommodations, and the charges are very moderate.
Beside the lake already mentioned, there is another under the summit of Cader Idris, called Llyn Cau, (the Pool of the Chasm,) from its being situated under vast cliffs; it is about a quarter of a mile long, and nearly of equal breadth, and has the appearance of the crater of a volcano, at the head of the chasm, through which a stream runs from the lake, and forms a fine cataract, close to the ancient house of Dolydd Cau, and then unites with another river, which meanders along the level vale below, to the upper end of Llyn Mwyngil. The vale in which it is situated is so contracted, as to leave, for a considerable part of its length, only a very narrow road on each side of the lake, from the clear surface of which are reflected its precipitous declivities. Towards the extremity of the vale, the lake contracts gradually into the form of a river, rushing with much force through a stone arch into a very narrow pass, having on one side the church, and on the other a small cluster of houses, which form the village, embosomed in trees, and assuming a romantically beautiful appearance.
At the distance of a mile or two from the church, the hills almost meet, and present a sterile and rugged aspect; they are broken into numberless crags, of which some are vertical and sharply pointed, but the greater number project horizontally, and impend with threatening gloom over the vale beneath. One of these precipices, from its resemblance in form to a harp, has been called Pen y Delyn; and another, from a tradition that it was formerly the practice to throw thieves from its summit, has been denominated Llan-y-Lladron (the Thieves’ Leap), a practice corresponding with that related of the Tarpeian rock at Rome.
Angling Station.—The Lake: good fishing. A boat.
TOWYN,
(Merionethshire.)
| Aberdovey | 4 |
| Barmouth | 12 |
| Dolgelley | 16 |
| London | 226 |
| Machynlleth | 14 |
Towyn is a market-town beautifully situated at the distance of about a mile from the sea-coast, near the mouth of the river Dysyni, in a small but pleasant vale. The return of the population for the town and parish is 2694 inhabitants.
During summer, the place is much frequented for sea-bathing, by persons who prefer retirement to the bustle of a more fashionable watering place. Valetudinarians are also attracted hither by St. Cadvan’s Well, much celebrated for the cure of rheumatic, scrofulous, and cutaneous disorders. The ride over the sands to Aberdovey, a rising place about four miles distant, is very pleasant. A beautiful line of road to that interesting village has been constructed, and is continued from that place to Pennal, abounding with picturesque scenery, and commanding views of Snowdon, Arran Mowddwy, Cader Idris, and Plinlimmon.
Towyn is one of the places at which the poll is appointed to be taken in the election of the parliamentary representative of the county. The church, dedicated to St. Cadvan, is an ancient cruciform structure, in the Norman style of architecture, containing some curious old monuments, which the inquisitive stranger ought not to leave unnoticed.
On a steep hill near the town are some remains of an ancient castle of great strength; the fortifications comprehend the entire summit of the eminence: one of the apartments, thirty-six feet in diameter, was hewn out of the solid rock, Craig-y-Deryn (the Bird’s Bock), situated in the vale of Dysyni, about three or four miles from Towyn, is in the highest degree wild and romantic. A small but picturesque waterfall may be seen at Dôlgôch.
At a small distance from the town is Ynys-y-maengwyn, a noble mansion, pleasantly situated in grounds tastefully laid out, and embellished with flourishing plantations and timber of ancient growth, among which is an evergreen oak, considered to be the finest tree of its kind in the kingdom. The garden is very extensive, and contains many rare trees and plants.
The angler will find excellent amusement in the Dysyni, which, after rolling through a rude assemblage of rugged mountains, flows through the fertile vale of Towyn, passing first by Peniarth, a seat belonging to the Wynn family, and then by Ynys-y-maengwyn, and finally entering Cardigan bay, about a mile eastward of Towyn. This is an excellent river for salmon, and it contains some remarkably dark and deep pools, more especially near Peniarth, where the river winds close by the house; the angler will also find good sport farther up the mountains.
Angling Station.—The river, up to Tal-y-Llyn.
TRAWS-FYNYDD,
(Merionethshire.)
| Bala | 18 |
| Dolgelley | 12 |
This village is situated on the road from Dolgelley to Tan-y-Bwlch, in an exposed and mountainous district. The church is an ancient structure of the old English style of architecture; the parish is of vast extent, being above ten miles in length, and eight in breadth, consisting chiefly of barren mountains, used only as sheep-walks. At this place a guide may be had to the waterfalls of Pistyll-y-Cain and Rhaiadr-y-Mawddach, distant about three or four miles.
On the road side towards Ffestiniog is Llyn Rathlyn, a small lake, noted for a singular variety of perch, having the lower extremity of the back-bone strangely distorted. The celebrated Humphrey Lloyd, who was consecrated Bishop of Bangor in 1673, was born at Bôd-y-Vuddai, in the parish of Traws-fynydd.
TREMADOC,
(Caernarvonshire.)
| Barmouth | 20 |
| Ditto, by Tan-y-Bwlch | 30 |
| Beddgelert | 7 |
| Caernarvon | 20 |
| Ffestiniog | 13 |
| Harlech | 10 |
| Ditto, by Tan-y-Bwlch | 20 |
| Pwllheli | 14 |
| Tan-y-Bwlch | 10 |
Tremadoc is a market-town and sea-port of very recent origin, and is a signal instance of the triumph of perseverance over apparently insurmountable local difficulties. It derives its name from its enterprising founder, the late Wm. Alexander Madock, Esq. This gentleman, having projected a plan for regaining from the sea a portion of the land on the western side of the wide sandy estuary called the Traeth Mawr, purchased the estate of Tan-yr-Allt, in the immediate vicinity, in 1798, and in 1800 succeeded in recovering a tract of nearly two thousand acres of rich land, then forming Penmorfa Marsh, which now produces excellent crops of wheat, barley, and clover, to which he gave the appropriate name of Glandwr.
Encouraged by the success of his first attempt, Mr. Madock was induced to undertake the more arduous enterprise of reclaiming the whole of the Traeth Mawr; and for this purpose he obtained in 1808 an act of parliament, vesting in him and his heirs the whole extent of these sands, from Pont Aberglâslyn, at their head, to the point of Gêst, at their lower extremity. Notwithstanding the numerous unforeseen obstacles which threatened to frustrate the undertaking, Mr. Madock succeeded in constructing across the mouth of the Traeth Mawr, at the eastern extremity of Cardigan bay, an embankment of earth and stones, nearly one mile in length, from north to south, varying from 100 to 400 feet in breadth at the base, and diminishing gradually to the summit, which is 100 feet high from the foundation. By means of this embankment, a line of communication has been formed between the counties of Caernarvon and Merioneth, and a tract of more than 2700 acres of land was recovered from the sea, besides a vast extent of adjoining land, which was before overflowed by the tides, but which is now, by draining, rendered susceptible of cultivation. This arduous enterprise was completed in 1811, at an expense of more than £100,000; and, including the lands previously recovered, not less than 7,000 acres have been gained.
The town is situated by the side of a lofty mountain, on the western side of Traeth Mawr, on a portion of the tract first recovered from the sea, and is built in the form of a square quadrangular area, having in the centre a lofty column, round the pedestal of which there is a flight of twelve steps. On the eastern side a commodious market-house has been erected, above which is an assembly-room. Mr. Madock also built, at his own expense, a handsome church, in the late style of English architecture, with a lofty spire, which forms an interesting object as seen from the sea-coast.
Tan-yr-Allt, the seat of the late W. A. Madock, Esq., is a spacious modern mansion of elegant design, situated on a rock overlooking the town. Morfa Lodge, and Tuhwnt-i’r-Bwlch, erected also by that gentleman, are handsome villas in the immediate vicinity of the town. Captain Parry, R.N. of Llwyn-on, Denbighshire, has also a seat called Aberdunant, between this place and Beddgelert.
With a view to promote the commercial interests of the town which he had founded, Mr. Madock, in 1821, obtained an act of parliament for improving the navigation of this part of the bay on which it is situated, and thus rendered it accessible to vessels of three hundred tons burden: commodious quays and wharfs were also constructed.
The last improvement carried into effect was the erection of Port Madoc, about one mile from the town, where many good houses have been built. The principal exports are slates, from the Ffestiniog quarries, and copper ore, which is brought from the neighbouring mines. The chief imports are timber, coal, and lime. A rail-road also runs to this place from the quarries and mines in the neighbourhood. The road from Tremadoc to Beddgelert commands to great advantage the scenery of the Merionethshire side of the Traeth, and affords a delightful ride to Pont Aberglaslyn and its vicinity.
WELSHPOOL,
(Montgomeryshire.)
| Llanfair | 8 |
| London | 171 |
| Montgomery | 8 |
| Newtown | 14 |
| Oswestry | 16 |
| Shrewsbury | 18 |
This town is called Welsh, to distinguish it from a town of the same name in Dorsetshire, and Pool, from its proximity to a piece of water called Llyn-du Pool, now within the inclosure of Powys park. The town, which Leland describes as being in the reign of Henry the Eighth, “the best market in Powys,” still retains that character, in addition to which it may justly be regarded as the modern capital of the county, and, with the parish, contains 4626 inhabitants. The town has a cheerful and prepossessing appearance. The flannel manufacture is carried on here, but upon a less scale than at Llanidloes or Newtown. A considerable trade is carried on in malt, and there are likewise several large tanneries. Welshpool is made contributory with Llanidloes, Llanfyllyn, Machynlleth, Montgomery, and Newtown, in returning a member to parliament. The assizes for the county are held here. The town-hall is a commodious building of brick, in the centre of the principal street.
The church, with the exception of the chancel and the tower, was rebuilt in 1774. It is in the early style of English architecture, with a lofty square embattled tower, and its interior accommodation was enlarged by the addition of galleries in 1824. Amongst the communion plate, there is a chalice of fine gold, holding one quart, and valued at £170; engraved on it is a Latin inscription, stating it to have been presented to the church of Pool, by Thomas Davies, Governor-general of the English colonies on the western coast of Africa, in gratitude for the preservation of his life during his residence in that unhealthy clime.
Powys Castle,
the seat of the Earl of Powys, is a stately but irregular pile of building, venerable for its antiquity: it is pleasantly situated in a well-wooded park, at the distance of a mile from the town, on the right of the road leading to Montgomery, and occupies a commanding site on a ridge of rocks overlooking a vast extent of richly diversified country, the greater part of which was formerly subject to its lord. The views from its extensive and richly wooded park are remarkably interesting and beautiful.
Angling Stations.
| Distances from Welshpool. | Miles. |
| Berriew, on the confluence of the Rhiw and Severn | 5 |
| Llandysylio, on the Vyrnwy | 8 |
| Llandrinio | 9 |
| Llanvyllin, the Abel, Cain, and Vyrnwy | 12 |
WREXHAM,
(Denbighshire.)
| Chester | 12 |
| Llangollen | 11½ |
| Oswestry | 6 |
| Ruthin | 16 |
Wrexham is a large and well-built town, whose population, including the parish, was returned in 1841 at 12,981 inhabitants. From its extent and importance, it has sometimes been denominated the metropolis of North Wales. The town is pleasantly situated at the junction of the Shrewsbury. Welshpool, Oswestry, and Chester roads, and in the centre of the mining and manufacturing districts of the eastern part of Denbighshire. Races are annually held early in October, on a course a little north-west of the town, on the right of the road to Mold. Wrexham is one of the principal stations on the Shrewsbury and Chester Railway.
No particular branch of trade or manufacture is carried on in the town; but the parish, which is about twelve miles in length, abounds with mineral wealth, and extensive works of various kinds are carried on in different parts of it. The principal inns are the Wynnstay Arms and the Lion. Markets are held on Thursday and Saturday, the former being the chief market day. There are several fairs held annually for cattle; but the principal one is that which commences on the 23d of March, and continues for fourteen days. For the accommodation of the various dealers attending it, five extensive areas are fitted up with shops and booths. A new and handsome market-hall has also been lately built, and cheese fairs established. Wrexham is contributory with Denbigh, Holt, and Ruthin, in the return of a parliamentary representative.
The church, dedicated to St. Giles, is a spacious and noble Gothic structure, deservedly regarded as one of the finest ecclesiastical edifices in the Principality. It was erected in the year 1472, the tower not being finished till 1506, as appears by a date on the building. The exterior is elaborately embellished with sculpture; and the tower, which is very lofty and highly enriched, consists of several successive stages, panelled throughout, and decorated with numerous statues of saints in canopied niches: from its elevation, and the light open-work turrets by which it is crowned at the angles, it forms a conspicuous and interesting object in the surrounding landscape. It has a remarkably fine carved roof: and a noble altar-piece, designed by Mr. Jones of Chester, and worked in stone by Mr. Blayney of that city; the east window being filled with beautifully stained glass by Mr. Evans, of Shrewsbury.
In the chancel is an altar-tomb, on which is a recumbent effigy of Dr. Bellot, successively Bishop of Bangor and Chester, who died in 1596, and was there interred. Nearly opposite to this tomb is an interesting monument, by Roubilliac, to the memory of Mrs. Mary Myddelton, of Chirk Castle, representing a female rising from the tomb in all the freshness of youth and beauty, at the sound of the last trumpet which is to summon the dead to judgment. At the corner of the aisle is also a monument by Roubilliac, to the Rev. Thomas Myddelton and Arabella his wife; and there are monuments to Wm. Lloyd, Esq. and his son, the Fitzhughs, the Pulestons, the Longuevilles, Sir Foster and Lady Cunliffe, and other families in the neighbourhood..
About a mile from Wrexham, on the right of the road leading to Chester, is Acton Park, the residence of Sir R. H. Cunliffe, Bart., a spacious mansion, delightfully situated in extensive grounds, richly diversified with picturesque and romantic scenery, and commanding pleasing views of the town and adjacent country. Acton was the birth-place of the notorious Judge Jeffreys, who obtained so bad an eminence in the reign of James the Second.
INDEX.
PAGE. | |
Aber | |
Aberdaron | |
Aberdovey | |
Aberffraw | |
Abergele | |
Aberystwyth | |
Acton Park | |
Amlwch | |
Bala | |
Bangor (Caernarvonshire) | |
Bangor Is-y-coed | |
Bardsey Island | |
Barmouth | |
Baron Hill | |
Basingwerk Abbey | |
Beaumaris | |
Beaumaris Bay | |
Beddgelert | |
Bettws-y-Coed | |
Buckley Mountain | |
Cader Idris | |
Caergwrle | |
Caernarvon | |
Caerwys | |
Capel Curig | |
Castell Dinas Brân | |
Cerig-y-Druidion | |
Cerniogau Mawr | |
Ceunant Mawr | |
Chester | |
(See alsoIntroduction.) | |
Chirk | |
Clynog | |
Conway | |
Corwen | |
Cricaeth | |
Devil’s Bridge | |
Dee River | |
Denbigh | |
Diganwy | |
Dinas Mowddwy | |
Dinorwic | |
Diserth | |
Dolbadarn | |
Dolgelley | |
Dolwyddelan Castle | |
Downing | |
Ewloe Castle | |
Ffestiniog | |
Flint | |
Golden Grove | |
Gorphwysfa | |
Gresford | |
Gwydir | |
Gwytherin | |
Gyrn | |
Hanmer | |
Harlech | |
Havod | |
Hawarden | |
Holt | |
Holyhead | |
Holywell | |
Hope | |
Kymmer Abbey | |
Lake Ogwen | |
Llanasa | |
Llanberis | |
Llanddulas | |
Llandegai | |
Llanedwen | |
Llanelian | |
Llanerch-y-medd | |
Llanervul | |
Llanfair (Anglesea) | |
Llanfair (Montgomerysh.) | |
Llanfyllyn | |
Llangefni | |
Llangollen | |
Llangynog | |
Llanhaiarn | |
Llanidan | |
Llanidloes | |
Llanrhaiadr | |
Llanrhaiadr-yn-Mochnant | |
Llanrwst | |
Llanvaes Abbey | |
Llyn Idwal | |
Machynlleth | |
Maen-twrog | |
Maes Garmon | |
Mallwyd | |
Menai Bridge | |
Menai Railway Bridge | |
Moel Fammau | |
Moel Siabod | |
Mold | |
Mona Inn | |
Montgomery | |
Mostyn Hall | |
Nannau Park | |
Nant Ffrancon | |
Nevyn | |
Newborough | |
Newmarket | |
Newtown | |
Northop | |
Offa’s Dyke | |
Ogwen Bank | |
Oswestry | |
Overton | |
Penmaen Mawr | |
Penmaen Priory | |
Penmorfa | |
Penmynydd | |
Penrhyn Castle | |
Pentraeth | |
Pentre Voelas | |
Pillar of Eliseg | |
Pistyll Rhaiadr | |
Plâs Newydd | |
Plâs Newydd (Anglesea) | |
Plinlimmon | |
Pont Aberglaslyn | |
Pont Cysylltau | |
Pont-y-Glyn | |
Powys Castle | |
Puffin Island | |
Pwllheli | |
Rhaiadr-y-Wennol | |
Rhuddlan | |
Rhyl | |
Ruabon | |
Ruthin | |
Slate Quarries, near Bangor | |
Snowdon | |
St. Asaph | |
St. George | |
Talacre | |
Tal-y-llyn | |
Tan-y-Bwlch | |
The Tower (Mold) | |
Towyn | |
Traws-fynydd | |
Trefriw | |
Tremadoc | |
Vale Crucis Abbey | |
Vale of Clwyd | |
Welshpool | |
Wrexham | |
Wynnstay | |