No. III.

During the publication of this little work, I was favoured, through the medium of a friend, with some very important remarks made by a Gentleman of great nautical skill and experience, in the year 1814, on board his Majesty’s ship Sybyll, while in the North Seas, for the protection of the Greenland fishery.

The first point to which he alludes, is the variation of the compass; and, respecting it, he observes, “Being anxious that every thing possible should be done for the improvement of navigation, I determined, while in those high latitudes, to take every opportunity of observing to what extent the variation of the compass might be affected by the ship’s course. A paper containing Captain Flinders’s observations on the same subject, had previously been sent to me by the Lords of the Admiralty; and as these observations had chiefly been made in high southern latitudes, it became doubly important to ascertain whether the same laws were followed in high northern latitudes. Experience has completely proved that they are; and, in fact, it is some years since I ascertained that the course down the English Channel, just taking the ship clear of head-lands, the opposite one up Channel would run the ship on the French coast.

“In order to render the result of my observations on this subject as clear as possible, I have selected a few, and inserted them in the order they were taken. The correctness of them may be relied on, being all calculated by two persons, examined by a third, and the whole taken by myself.

“I boarded a good many Greenland ships when in the North, whose masters all agreed in maintaining, that they experienced strong south-east currents on their return home, and were often confounded at making the coast of Norway when they expected to make that of Shetland. Now, I have no hesitation in saying, that if the same difference in the variation is to be found on board of a Greenland ship, that was found to exist in the Sybyll and Princess Carolina, the idea of a strong easterly current is unfounded, and is merely resorted to, to account for the error in their dead reckoning, arising from their not allowing a sufficiency of westerly variation in running from the ice to the south-west. A degree of longitude is soon lost in those high latitudes, and the error must increase in running to the south-west, if proper allowance be not made; for I am very certain that a different variation will be found on every point of the compass the ship’s head is put on. The greatest will be found when the ship’s head is at West, gradually declining till it comes to East.

“The Princess Carolina, as well as Sybyll, experienced the same currents as the masters of the Greenland ships supposed to exist; for when we made Shetland, by Arnold’s chronometer, No. 1981, to a mile, our dead reckonings were nearly 6° to the westward in both ships; and when we made the North Cape by the same chronometer, (which was under my own care,) the longitude in both ships, by account, was 4° to the westward also. The one error was occasioned by not allowing a sufficient quantity of variation in running to the south-west, and the other by allowing too much in running to the north-east.

“I do not know whether the same observations may hold good when applied to ships coming from the Baltic; but should they do so, they must effectually account for ships getting down on the coast of Holland, when they suppose themselves well over in Mid-channel. Perhaps this may, in some measure, serve to account for the loss of so many of our brave tars when coming from that sea.

“Notwithstanding the whole tenor of my observations, as well as those of Captain Flinders, led me to believe that the cause of the variation must exist in the ship; yet I had great difficulty in coming to a conclusion so remote from what had formerly been held to be truth; and for that reason, during our stay at St. Mary’s, I took the opportunity of making a decisive experiment on this subject. I first went with the Azimuth compass to St. Agnes’s lighthouse, from which I set the flag-staff on St. Mary’s Castle, E. 31° N. I next went to St. Mary’s castle, and from it set the lighthouse W. 31° S. Finding these opposite bearings thus correspond when on shore, I am fully persuaded the cause of the differences observed when at sea, must exist in the ship.”

After making these remarks on the variation of the compass, he next goes on to make some observations, as they occurred in the voyage.

“On the 16th of June, saw Bear, or Cherry Island, which, at a distance, looks like a saddle, both extremities being very high, and the middle low. It may be seen 20 leagues off in clear weather. At noon, it bore by compass, N. b E. ½ E. when I observed in 73° 44´ N. good observation, and our chronometer gave good sights, 20° 3´ E. By seven P. M. we had run 33 miles on a N.N.W. course corrected, when the south end of the island bore by compass E. b N. 3 or 4 leagues, which, brought up from noon, will make it in 74° 19´ N. Lat. and 20° 7´ E. Long. At this time it came on foggy, and prevented us from ascertaining its extent. Soundings are to be obtained to the southward of this island, and up to Spitzbergen; black mud and small shells.

“19th, Saw Spitzbergen, and on the 20th were close in with the South Cape. We carried regular soundings to 11 fathoms, about three miles off; but this part of the coast appearing to be surrounded with rocks, we did not attempt approaching it more closely. Our chronometers made it in about 16° 2´ E. We saw some beacons placed along the coast, each in the form of a cross, which, are, no doubt, placed there for the guidance of the Russian hunters.

“About this time we bore away for the North Cape, in order to water, and procure any refreshments that could be got. After making the land to the westward of the Cape, we stood into a large bay, to look for a place of safety to accomplish our purpose, hardly suspecting that any inhabitants were to be found. On standing in, we observed some boats under sail, one of which was soon brought alongside, that contained a family of Finmarkers, some of whom spoke the Danish language. They informed us of the town of Hammerfest being close by, and offered to take us in. This offer was soon embraced, and, in a few hours, the town opened to our view; which, to our astonishment, contained a church, batteries, &c. The Captain of the port soon made his appearance, and anchored us in safety. I made a survey of this place, and ascertained its latitude and longitude as correctly as possible, which are as follow:

The latitude of Hammerfest Town, ascertained by a good Sextant and False-Horizon, taken on shore, was found	70° 38′ 34″ N.
Longitude, by Arnold’s chronometer, No. 1981, taken on shore, by the same means	24 28 0 E.
Variation by same means	11 4 0 W.
Range of thermometer on board	from 70° to 75°
Range of thermometer on shore	75° 80°

High water on full and change, at three hours; rise and fall 8 feet. I found it is very much influenced by the wind, and when it blows strongly from the N. W. it rises considerably higher.

“The town of Hammerfest is situated on the island of Qualoon, 25 Danish miles in extent, and is one of the departments of West Finmark, which contains 25,000 souls. This province is divided into parishes, each having its priest, and over the whole is a bishop, to enforce the duties of the Lutheran religion. There are 200 regular soldiers scattered in different quarters of the province, commanded by a captain, who governs the whole country. About thirty houses compose the town of Hammerfest, with about 200 inhabitants; with one church, one hospital, a customhouse, and some public and private stores. The customhouse has regular established officers appointed from Copenhagen. The captain of the port is under the same appointment, and wears the uniform of the Danish navy.

“The principal trade of this place is in furs and fish, which are all sent into Russia. The extent of the imports and exports I was not able accurately to learn, but suppose them, in time of peace, to be something considerable. I was told by the captain of the port, that in 1808, 200 sail had been seen here at one time. The Russian merchants have their agents scattered all over West as well as East Finmark. They make their purchases from the Finmarkers, with flour, brandy, sail-cloth, fishing-lines, coarse cloth, and other articles of that kind, for enabling them to carry on the fishing and hunting business. I was informed that 3000 boats were yearly employed by the Finmarkers in fishing; for as soon as the hunting season is over, they devote their whole attention to the fisheries. Four or five men are attached to each boat.

“Cod and herrings abound on this coast, and are the finest I ever saw, being of a much firmer and better texture than those caught on the banks of Newfoundland.

“As the Finmarker dries his fish in the sun, without salt, it must be but a very poor employment: but, as all his wants are easily supplied, with this kind of commerce he is satisfied, and thinks money of little consideration. Perhaps, after all, they are more happy than the lower orders of more enlightened nations.

“Perhaps a fishing establishment at Hammerfest might be attended with considerable advantage. The deepness of the water would render a departure from the mode of fishing observed on the banks of Newfoundland indispensable. The hook and line are here of little consequence. The Finmarkers all fish with nets, and we adopted the same method with considerable success. No place is better adapted than this for curing with salt. From its situation, embosomed by hills, the thermometer in the summer, as our observations show, often reaches a very high degree of temperature. With proper management, a cod might then have been prepared for the market in three days, while at Newfoundland, in the best weather, it requires five.

“At Newfoundland, they have only from twelve to fourteen hours sun; at Hammerfest, nearly four months. The advantages, therefore, as to climate, on the side of Hammerfest, are most obvious. Perhaps, too, an establishment in the North might, in time of war, be of some importance, as it would the better enable us to prevent our enemies enjoying any share of so lucrative a trade as the whale fishing.

“The cold is by no means so intense in winter as might be expected. The inner harbour, though seldom agitated by winds, was never seen frozen over; and the moonlight is sufficiently strong to render labour practicable. Nature has been very provident with respect to fuel, the whole country abounding with good turf. The severity of the climate diminishes the vital principle in the human race; the men soon get old, and the women are past child-bearing at thirty-five.

“The chase of the bear, who is never killed before January or February, when they are in the best condition, sets the courage and cool deliberation of the Finmarker in a most conspicuous point of view. In October, the Finmarker carefully watches the haunts of the bear, who, at that time, seeks for a winter retreat; and having marked it, returns in January to the attack. Having prepared a lance, to which a cross-bar is affixed, about one foot from the point, the Finmarker, when the wind is in a favourable direction, makes a large fire before the bear’s den; the smoke soon irritating the animals, they rush out, one by one: at this critical moment the Finmarker, concealing his lance, places himself behind the fire, and the bear, rearing on his hind legs, in order to seize him, he plunges his lance up to the cross-bar in his breast.[37] The rest are served in the same manner.

“The rein deer are here extremely plenty, and very dear; we paid L.2 for one of them. Certainly they had heard something of the wealth of John Bull.

“Some of the better sort of people at Hammerfest, possessed a few cows and sheep. The cows were not larger than a bull-dog, and the sheep like a good tom-cat.

“The female beauty of this place had sufficient attraction to induce the gentlemen of the Princess Carolina and Sybyll to give them a ball and supper. The invitation was quite general, and the whole went off with great eclat.

“Most of the Russian agents and merchants spoke the English language; but they were by no means anxious to communicate information which they thought might, one day or other, ruin their commercial pursuits. It was only when they got a good dinner, and plenty of wine, that any thing particular could be drawn from them.

“The Sybyll and Princess Carolina sailed from the Downs on the 6th of May, and on the 18th of August arrived in Long Hope Sound. Our highest latitude was 78° 16´, where we saw many of the Greenland ships. We sailed as far east as 32° 44´, and experienced one continued series of good weather. The thermometer never was below 26° in the night, and seldom above 44° in the day, with the exception of the time we were at Hammerfest.”

Mon. Day, and Year.	A.M or P.M.	Latitude in.	Longitude in.	☉ Amplitude corrected for dip, &c.	Ship’s head.	Magnetic amplitude.
1814
May	North.	East.
11	A.M.	53° 38	2° 22	24° 12	N.W.	S. 61° 15´ E.
12	A.M.	5 34	2 37	23 59	N.W.bN.	S. 61 20 E.
16	A.M.	57 2	3 37	2 1	N.N.E.	S. 66 45 E.
16	P.M.	57 53	2 21	21 32	NbW.½W.	N. 62 50 W
17	A.M.	59 4	0 32	14 42	N.bW.	S. 75 20 E.
24	P.M.	60 27	1 58	15 21	N.E.bE.	N. 50 15 W
25	A.M.	60 27	2 0	27 6	N.bW.	S. 60 40 E.
26	P.M.	60 52	2 50	18 33	N.E.	N. 58 40 W
June
2	P.M.	73 14	18 10	17 50	N.E.bN.	N. 60 30 W
4	P.M.	74 27	19 58	19 9	W.S.W.	N. 60 30 W
8	P.M.	73 59	29 55	18 20	N.E.bN.	N. 66 15 W
8	P.M.	74 0	29 52	15 22	W.S.W.	N. 48 40 W
13	P.M.	71 10	27 10	8 52	S.W.1/2S.	N. 25 0 W
18	P.M.	75 22	18 21	15 2	N.bE.	N. 37 50 W
26	P.M.	78 11	6 55	20 38	E.S.E.	N. 55 0 W
July
3	A.M.	72 53	21 21	17 47	S.S.E.	S. 78 40 E.
22	P.M.	70 27	10 38	17 14	E.S.E.	N. 61 30 W
Aug.
1	P.M.	68 58	10 25	15 26	W.½N.	N. 52 40 W
2	A.M.	68 33	9 10	13 40	W.½bS.S.	S. 79 32 E.
2	P.M.	68 20	8 59	14 32	S.S.W.	N. 55 30 W
2	P.M.	68 20	8 59	13 50	West,	N. 51 16 W
2	P.M.	68 20	8 59	12 57	N.E.bN.	N. 56 20 W
8	P.M.	67 37	3 20	15 6	South,	N. 57 35 W
11	A.M.	62 10	0 20	13 48	W.bN.	S. 65 55 E.
			West,
14	A.M.	61 23	0 6	20 18	W.1/2S.	S. 52 30 E.
14	P.M.	60 57	0 23	15 47	E.S.E.	N. 60 0 W
14	P.M.	60 57	0v 10	3 00	W.bS.	N. 34 30 W
15	P.M.	60 25	0 28	11 52	E.S.E.	N. 62C0 W
17	P.M.	59 7	— —	13 23	W.bS.	N. 55 30 W
Sept.			West,
2	A.M.	58 17	8 31	6 58	N.W.	S. 61 15 E.
2	A.M.	58 17	8 31	8v 26	North.	S. 62 17 E.
13	P.M.	49 59	6 22	8 12	S.E.bE.	N. 71 30 W
14	A.M.	49 6	— —	19 5	. . .	S. 46 30 E.
14	P.M.	——	— —	— —	. . .	N. 57 0 W

Mon. Day, and Year.	Variation.	Difference	Remarks, &c. &c.
1814
May
11	24° 49´ W		Very good sights.
12	26 18		— —
16	21 35 }	5° 25	— —
16	27 0 }	5° 25	— —
17	27 40		— —
24	24 49		— —
25	24 4		— —
26	20 14		— —
Jun
2	11 35		Very good.	Sounded 100 fathoms, fine mud.
4	14 28		Not very good.
8	4 55 }	6 25	Very good.}	Both sights were equally good. The ship was immediately put on the other tack.
8	11 20 }	6 25	Very good.}
13	13 10		Very good.	North Cape N.W.bW.½W. 5 leagues.
18	16 12		Very good.
26	19 6		Very good.	Ship surrounded with ice.
Jul.
3	9 22		Very good.
22	16 6		Very good.
Aug.
1	26 42		Very good.	Ship some motion.
2	25 14		Very good.
2	22 4 }	7 37	All these sights were equally good. The evening was remarkablyfine, with a light air from the S.E. The first set was taken with the ship’s head S.S.W.; 2d set at West; and 3d set atN.E.bN. The ship was put round in this manner for the purpose.
2	25 11 }	7 37
2	17 34 }
8	26 43		The mean of six sets all good. The weather calm and fine.
11	31 15		The mean of two sets ship steady. Longitude obtained by ☉, ☽, and chronometer.
14	30 36 }	5 8	Very good.
14	25 28 }	5 8	Very good.	North end of Shetland, S. 11° E. 5 or 6 leagues.
14	30 40 }	10 25	Very good.	North end of Shetland, S. 48° W. 4 or 5 leagues.
15	20 15 }	10 25	Very good.	Outer Skerry, Shetland, S.S.W. 2 miles.
17	30 32		Very good.	Lamb Head, Orkneys, W.½S. 4 or 5 miles.
Sept.
2	33 1 }	3 30	Both these sights were good, and the ship was put on the courses,as given purposely. St. Kilda Island S. 9° W. 8 or 9 leagues. No soundings at 180 fathoms.
2	29 31 }	3 30
13	22 30		At anchor in St. Mary’s. St. Agnes’s Light-House W. 54° S. Castle E. 51° S.
14	27 16		This azimuth was taken on shore at St. Agnes’s Light-House, with false horizon.
14	27 31		This amplitude was taken on shore at St. Mary’s flag-staff.—Most excellent.

[Transcriber's Note: The table was laid out in the original with the data on one page and the Remarks on the next, this table has been divided to fit the page constraints. The date column has been duplicated and for ease of cross referencing.]