FOOTNOTES:
[10] To those custom shoemakers who continue trying to fit everybody without any specially-made lasts it is suggested that in some of the most difficult they make a trial shoe, the upper for it being cut from some cheap material, such as cotton drilling for representing serge or cloth, and split-leather or sheepskin for leather uppers, while a piece of insole-leather will answer for the bottom. The upper can be sewed together without lining, only some eyelets being necessary for lacing, and when drawn over such a last as is judged likely to fit the foot it may be roughly fastened down all around with a waxed thread. After trial on the customer’s foot, the upper can be ripped off and the sole-leather used for an insole or something else, while if the shoe fits badly the last is easily modified, before making a permanent article. The same plan might be tried with any new last designed for a particular foot.
[11] The effects upon the foot are not the only bad results springing from heels that are extremely high. The work of Dr. C. F. Taylor has already been quoted from to show the influence of weak ankles in developing lateral curvature of the spine. We also find in it some hints concerning stoop-shoulders, which are thus expressed.
“Man has a much narrower base of sustentation than most other animals, which renders it important that that base should not be lessened by cramping the feet in narrow shoes, rendering progression difficult, awkward, and quickly fatiguing. But probably the most serious fault in the feet-coverings is the elevated heel often given to them. By elevating the heel, besides the still narrower base given, whether in progression or standing, the anatomical relations of the whole body as an instrument of locomotion are materially changed. As in lateral curvature of the spine, a deviation from the proper position at one point may cause several other compensating curves at other points, so an improper position of one part of the locomotive apparatus will cause a succession of other false positions of other parts. By elevating the heel and constantly keeping the flexors of the feet [the muscles on the upper side] on the stretch, relief to them is instinctively sought by a slight flexion at the knee; this would destroy the perpendicularity of the figure, were not another slight flexion made at the hips; but as this would throw the trunk forward still another flexion backward is required, and then forward, etc. But in the spinal column a compromise is effected by a forward curve and inclination of the head. Thus, high heels tend to produce and permanently establish a succession of zigzags from the ankles upward, with the weight of the body supported by the tension of the muscles, and not, as in erect stature, by the bony framework.”—Theory and Practice of the Movement-Cure, p. 75.
The position here described is an approach to that assumed by old people—those “bent over by age”—who are unable from weakness to stand upright. The abdominal muscles are relaxed, the chest sinks, the head falls forward, and the spine adapts itself by bending at the neck and shoulders. The author goes on to show that these effects are felt more sensibly by women than by men, and that their diseases and weaknesses are thus rendered more aggravated, and the complete cure of them retarded or prevented by the wearing of high heels.