FOOTNOTES:
[6] Uniform exposure to the weather is favorable to health. I can affirm this from long experience and observation. Our hunters, and surveyors, who uniformly spend their time for weeks in the woods and prairies, who wade in the water, swim creeks, are drenched in the rains and dews, and sleep in the open air or a camp at night, very rarely are attacked with fevers. I have known repeated instances of young men, brought up delicately in the eastern cities, accustomed, as clerks, to a sedentary life, with feeble constitutions,—I have known such repeatedly to enter upon the business of surveying the public lands, or in the hunting and trapping business, be absent for months, and return with robust health. It is a common thing for a frontier man, whose health is on the decline, and especially when indications of pulmonary affection appear, to engage in a hunting expedition to renovate his health. I state these facts, and leave it to the medical faculty to explain the why and wherefore. One circumstance may deserve attention. All these men, as do the Indians, sleep with their feet towards the fire at night. And it is a common notion with this class, that if the feet are kept hot through the night, however cold the atmosphere, or however much exposed the rest of the body, no evil consequences will ensue. I have passed many a night in this position, after fatiguing rides of thirty or forty miles in the day on our extreme frontiers, and through rains, and never experienced any inconvenience to health, if I could get a pallet on the cabin floor, and my feet to the fire.
Those who are exposed to these hardships but occasionally, when compelled by necessity, and who endeavor to protect themselves at all other times, usually suffer after such exposure.
I have observed that children, when left to run in the open air and weather, who go barefoot, and oftentimes with a single light garment around them, who sleep on the floor at night, are more healthy than those who are protected.
CHAPTER IV.
CHARACTER, MANNERS, AND PURSUITS OF THE PEOPLE.
Cotton and Sugar Planters;—Farmers;—Population of the large towns and cities;—Frontier
class;—Hunters and Trappers;—Boatmen.
There is great diversity in the character and habits of the population of the Valley of the Mississippi.
Those who have emigrated from the Atlantic states, as have a very large proportion of those persons who were not born in the Valley, of course do not differ essentially from the remaining population of those states. Some slight shades of difference are perceptible in such persons as have lived long enough in the country to become assimilated to the habits, and partake of the feelings, of western people.
Emigrants from Europe have brought the peculiarities of the nations and countries from whence they have originated, but are fast losing their national manners, and feelings, and, to use a provincial term, will soon become "westernized."
The march of emigration from the Atlantic border has been nearly in a line due west. Tennessee was settled by Carolinians, and Kentucky by Virginians. Ohio received the basis of its population from the states in the same parallel, and hence partakes of all the varieties from Maryland to New England. Michigan is substantially a child of New York. The planters of the south have gone to Mississippi, Louisiana, and the southern part of Arkansas. Kentucky and Tennessee have spread their sons and daughters over Indiana, Illinois and Missouri; but the two former states are now receiving great numbers of emigrants from all the northern states, including Ohio, and multitudes from the south, who desire to remove beyond the boundaries and influence of a slave population.
Slavery in the west, keeps nearly in the same parallels as it holds in the east, and is receding south, as it does on the Atlantic coast. Many descendants of the Scotch, Irish and Germans, have come into the frontier states from Western Pennsylvania.
We have European emigrants from Great Britain and Ireland. Those of the latter are more generally found about our large towns and cities, and along the lines of canalling.
The French were the explorers and early settlers of the Valley immediately bordering on the Mississippi, 150 years since. They formed the basis of population of Louisiana a few years since, but are relatively diminishing before the emigration from other states of the Union. Their descendants show many of the peculiar and distinctive traits of that people in all countries. They possess mild vivacity, and gaiety, and are distinguished for their quiet, inoffensive, domestic, frugal, and unenterprising spirit and manners. The poorer class of French are rather peculiar and unique. Their ancestors were isolated from the rest of the world, had no object of excitement or ambition, cared little for wealth, or the accumulation of property, and were accustomed to hunt, make voyages in their canoes, smoke and traffic with the Indians. But few of them knew how to read and write. Accustomed from infancy to the life of huntsmen, trappers and boatmen, they make but indifferent farmers. They are contented to live in the same rude, but neatly whitewashed cabin, cultivate the same cornfields in the same mode, and drive the same rudely constructed horse cart their fathers did. In the neatness of their gardens, which are usually cultivated by the females, they excel the Americans. They are the coureurs du bois of the West.
The European Germans are now coming into the Valley by thousands, and, for a time, will retain their manners and language.
Cotton and Sugar Planters.—These people, found chiefly in Mississippi, Louisiana, and the southern part of Arkansas, have a great degree of similarity. They are noted for their high-mindedness, generosity, liberality, hospitality, sociability, quick sense of honor, resentment of injuries, indolence, and, in too many cases, dissipation. They are much addicted to the sports of the turf and the vices of the gaming table. Still there are many planters of strictly moral, and even religious habits. They are excessively jealous of their political rights, yet frank and open hearted in their dispositions, and carry the duties of hospitality to a great extent. Having overseers on most of their plantations, the labor being performed by slaves, they have much leisure, and are averse to much personal attention to business. They dislike care, profound thinking and deep impressions. The young men are volatile, gay, dashing and reckless spirits, fond of excitement and high life. There is a fatal propensity amongst the southern planters to decide quarrels, and even trivial disputes by duels. But there are also many amiable and noble traits of character amongst this class; and if the principles of the Bible and religion could be brought to exert a controlling influence, there would be a noble spirited race of people in the southwestern states.
It cannot be expected that I should pass in entire silence the system of slaveholding in the lower Valley, or its influence on the manners and habits of the people. This state of society seems unavoidable at present, though I have no idea or expectation it will be perpetual. Opposite sentiments and feelings are spreading over the whole earth, and a person must have been a very inattentive observer of the tendencies and effects of the diffusion of liberal principles not to perceive that hereditary, domestic servitude must have an end.
This is a subject, however, that from our civil compact, belongs exclusively to the citizens of the states concerned; and if not unreasonably annoyed, the farming slaveholding states, as Kentucky, Tennessee and Missouri, will soon provide for its eventual termination. Doubtless, in the cotton and sugar growing states it will retain its hold with more tenacity, but the influence of free principles will roll onward until the evil is annihilated.
The barbarous and unwise regulations in some of the planting states, which prohibit the slaves from being taught to read, are a serious impediment to the moral and religious instruction of that numerous and unfortunate class. Such laws display on the part of the law makers, little knowledge of human nature and the real tendency of things. To keep slaves entirely ignorant of the rights of man, in this spirit-stirring age, is utterly impossible. Seek out the remotest and darkest corner of Louisiana, and plant every guard that is possible around the negro quarters, and the light of truth will penetrate. Slaves will find out, for they already know it, that they possess rights as men. And here is the fatal mistake now committed in the southern slaveholding states—legislating against the instruction of their slaves—to keep them from knowing their rights. They will obtain some loose, vague, and undefined notion of the doctrine of human rights, and the unrighteousness of oppression in this republican country. Being kept from all the moral and religious instruction which Sabbath schools, the Bible, and other good books are calculated to impart, and with those undefined notions of liberty, and without any moral principle, they are prepared to enter into the first insurrectionary movement proposed by some artful and talented leader. The same notion prevailed in the West Indies half a century since, and many of the planters resisted and persecuted the benevolent Moravians, who went there to instruct the blacks in the principles and duties of religion. A few of the planters reasoned justly. They invited these benevolent men on their plantations, and gave them full liberty on the Sabbath, and at other suitable seasons, to instruct their slaves. The happiest effects followed. On these plantations, where riot, misrule, and threatened insurrections, had once spread a panic through the colony, order, quietness and submission followed. Such would be the effects if the southern planter would invite the minister of the gospel and the Sunday school teacher to visit his plantation, allow his slaves to be instructed to read, and each to be furnished with a copy of the Scriptures. The southern planter hourly lives under the most terrific apprehensions. It is in vain to disguise the fact. As Mr. Randolph once significantly said in Congress, "when the night bell rings, the mother hugs her infant closer to her breast." Slavery, under any circumstances, is a bitter draught—equally bitter to him who tenders the cup, and to him who drinks it. But in all the northern slaveholding states, it is comparatively mild. Its condition would be much alleviated, and the planter might sleep securely if he would abolish his barbarous laws, more congenial with Asiatic despotism than American republicanism, and provide for his slaves the benefits of wholesome instruction. Philanthropy and interest unite in their demands upon every southern planter to provide Sunday school instruction for his slaves.
The planting region of the lower Valley furnishes an immense market for the productions and manufactures of the upper Valley. Indirectly, the Louisiana sugar business is a source of profit to the farmer of Illinois and Missouri. Pork, beef, corn, corn-meal, flour, potatoes, butter, hay, &c. in vast quantities, go to supply these plantations. In laying in their stores, the sugar planters usually purchase one barrel of second or third quality of beef or pork per annum, for each laborer. Large drafts for sugar mills, engines and boilers, are made upon the Cincinnati and Pittsburg iron foundries. Mules and horses are driven from the upper country, or from the Mexican dominions, to keep up the supply.
The commerce of the upper country that concentrates at New Orleans is amazing, and every year is rapidly increasing. Sixteen hundred arrivals of steamboats took place in 1832, and the estimated number in 1835 is 2,300.
Farmers.—In the northern half of the Valley the productions, and the modes of cultivation and living are such as to characterize a large proportion of the population as farmers. No country on earth has such facilities for agriculture. The soil is abundantly fertile, the seasons ordinarily favorable to the growth and maturity of crops, and every farmer in a few years, with reasonable industry, becomes comparatively independent. Tobacco and hemp are among the staple productions of Kentucky.
Neat cattle, horses, mules and swine are its stock. Some stock growers have monopolized the smaller farms till they are surrounded with several thousand acres. Blue grass pastures furnish summer feed, and extensive fields of corn, cut up near the ground, and stacked in the fields, furnish stores for fattening stock in the winter.
In some counties, raising of stock has taken place of all other business. The Scioto Valley, and other districts in Ohio, are famous for fine, well fed beef. Thousands of young cattle are purchased by the Ohio graziers, at the close of winter, of the farmers of Illinois and Missouri. The Miami and Whitewater sections of Ohio and Indiana, abound with swine. Cincinnati has been the great pork mart of the world. 150,000 head of hogs have been frequently slaughtered there in a season. About 75,000 is estimated to be the number slaughtered at that place the present season. This apparent falling off in the pork business, at Cincinnati, is accounted for by the vast increase of business at other places. Since the opening of the canals in Ohio, many provision establishments have been made along their line. Much business of the kind is now done at Terre Haute and other towns on the Wabash,—at Madison, Louisville, and other towns on the Ohio,—at Alton and other places in Illinois.
The farmers of the West are independent in feeling, plain in dress, simple in manners, frank and hospitable in their dwellings, and soon acquire a competency by moderate labor. Those from Kentucky, Tennessee, or other states south of the Ohio river, have large fields, well cultivated, and enclosed with strong built rail or worm fences, but they often neglect to provide spacious barns and other outhouses for their grain, hay and stock. The influence of habit, is powerful. A Kentuckian would look with contempt upon the low fences of a New-Englander as indicating thriftless habits, while the latter would point at the unsheltered stacks of wheat, and dirty threshing floor of the former, as proof direct of bad economy and wastefulness.
Population of the Cities and large Towns. The population of western towns does not differ essentially from the same class in the Atlantic states, excepting there is much less division into grades and ranks, less ignorance, low depravity and squalid poverty amongst the poor, and less aristocratic feeling amongst the rich. As there is never any lack of employment for laborers of every description, there is comparatively no suffering from that cause. And the hospitable habits of the people provide for the sick, infirm and helpless. Doubtless, our circumstances more than any thing else, cause these shades of difference. The common mechanic is on a social equality with the merchant, the lawyer, the physician, and the minister. They have shared in the same fatigues and privations, partook of the same homely fare, in many instances have fought side by side in defence of their homes against the inroads of savages,—are frequently elected to the same posts of honor, and have accumulated property simultaneously. Many mechanics in the western cities and towns, are the owners of their own dwellings, and of other buildings, which they rent. I have known many a wealthy merchant, or professional gentleman occupy on rent, a building worth several thousand dollars, the property of some industrious mechanic, who, but a few years previous, was an apprentice lad, or worked at his trade as a journeyman. Any sober, industrious mechanic can place himself in affluent circumstances, and place his children on an equality with the children of the commercial and professional community, by migrating to any of our new and rising western towns. They will find no occasion here for combinations to sustain their interests, nor meet with annoyance from gangs of unprincipled foreigners, under the imposing names of "Trades Unions."
Manufactures of various kinds are carried on in our western cities. Pittsburg has been characterized as the "Birmingham of America." The manufactures of iron, machinery and glass, and the building of steamboats, are carried on to a great extent.
Iron and salt, are made in great quantities in Western Pennsylvania, and Western Virginia. Steamboats are built to a considerable extent at Fulton, two miles above Cincinnati, and occasionally at many other places on the Ohio and Mississippi rivers. Alton offers great facilities for this business. Cotton bagging, bale ropes, and cordage, are manufactured in Tennessee and Kentucky. The following article from the Covington Enquirer, gives a few items of the industry and enterprise of Kentucky,—of the manufacture of Newport and Covington. Both of these thriving towns lie at the mouth of the Licking river, the one on the right bank, and the other on the left, and both in direct view of Cincinnati.
MANUFACTURES IN COVINGTON AND NEWPORT.
"Founding the calculation upon the actual manufactures of October, and the known power of their machinery, the Company will the ensuing year, give employment to more than four hundred operatives, and manufacture,
Estimating Bale Rope and Cotton Bagging at 33 per cent under the price at which the Company have sold these articles for the last six months, the manufactures of this Company during the ensuing year will amount to $358,548.44. Almost all the manufactures at Covington and Newport being exported to foreign markets, it will result that the annual exports from these points will, in round numbers, be from the
| Interior | $750,000 |
| Campbell County | 150,000 |
| Boone County | 234,000 |
| Covington | 548,500 |
| Newport | 358,500 |
| $2,041,000 |
The Newport Manufacturing Company has depended principally for its supply of Hemp, on the production of Mason county, of which Maysville is the market;—this season they have not been able to get a supply at Maysville, and it is a remarkable fact in the history of the Hemp manufactories in Kentucky, that this company, owing to the scarcity and high prices of Hemp in Kentucky, has imported this season 354,201 lbs. Russia Hemp.
Various manufactures are springing up in all the new states, which will be noticed under their proper heads.
The number of merchants and traders is very great in the Valley of the Mississippi, yet mercantile business is rapidly increasing.—Thousands of the farmers of the West, are partial traders. They take their own produce, in their own flat boats, down the rivers to the market of the lower country.
Frontier class of Population. The rough, sturdy habits of the backwoodsmen, living in that plenty which depends on God and nature, have laid the foundation of independent thought and feeling deep in the minds of western people.
Generally, in all the western settlements, three classes, like the waves of the ocean, have rolled one after the other. First comes the Pioneer, who depends for the subsistence of his family chiefly upon the natural growth of vegetation, called the "range," and the proceeds of hunting. His implements of agriculture are rude, chiefly of his own make, and his efforts directed mainly to a crop of corn, and a "truck patch." The last is a rude garden for growing cabbage, beans, corn for roasting ears, cucumbers and potatoes. A log cabin, and occasionally a stable and corn crib, and a field of a dozen acres, the timber girdled or "deadened," and fenced, are enough for his occupancy. It is quite immaterial whether he ever becomes the owner of the soil. He is the occupant for the time being, pays no rent, and feels as independent as the "lord of the manor." With a horse, cow, and one or two breeders of swine, he strikes into the woods with his family, and becomes the founder of a new county, or perhaps state. He builds his cabin, gathers around him a few other families of similar taste and habits, and occupies till the range is somewhat subdued, and hunting a little precarious, or, which is more frequently the case, till neighbors crowd around, roads, bridges and fields annoy him, and he lacks elbow-room. The pre-emption law enables him to dispose of his cabin and cornfield, to the next class of emigrants, and, to employ his own figures, he "breaks for the high timber,"—"clears out for the New Purchase," or migrates to Arkansas or Texas, to work the same process over.
The next class of emigrants purchase the lands, add "field to field," clear out the roads, throw rough bridges over the streams, put up hewn log houses, with glass windows, and brick or stone chimneys, occasionally plant orchards, build mills, school houses, court houses, &c., and exhibit the picture and forms of plain, frugal, civilized life.
Another wave rolls on. The men of capital and enterprise come. The "settler" is ready to sell out, and take the advantage of the rise of property,—push farther into the interior, and become himself, a man of capital and enterprise in time. The small village rises to a spacious town or city,—substantial edifices of brick, extensive fields, orchards, gardens—colleges and churches are seen. Broadcloths, silks, leghorns, crapes, and all the refinements, luxuries, elegancies, frivolities and fashions, are in vogue. Thus wave after wave is rolling westward—the real el dorado is still farther on.
A portion of the two first classes remain stationary amidst the general movement, improve their habits and condition, and rise in the scale of society.
The writer has travelled much amongst the first class—the real pioneers. He has lived many years in connexion with the second grade, and now the third wave is sweeping over large districts of Indiana, Illinois and Missouri. Migration has become almost a habit in the west. Hundreds of men can be found, not fifty years of age, who have settled for the fourth, fifth, or sixth time on a new spot. To sell out and remove only a few hundred miles, makes up a portion of the variety of backwoods life and manners.
But to return to the Frontier class.
1. Dress.—The hunting shirt is universally worn. This is a kind of loose, open frock, reaching halfway down the thighs, with large sleeves, the body open in front, lapped over, and belted with a leathern girdle, held together with a buckle. The cape is large, and usually fringed with different colored cloth from that of the body. The bosom of this dress sometimes serves as a wallet for a "chunk" of bread, jerk or smoke-dried venison, and other articles. It is made either of dressed deer skins, linsey, coarse linen, or cotton. The shirt, waistcoat and pantaloons are of similar articles and of the customary form. Wrappers of cloth or dressed skins, called "leggins" are tied round the legs when travelling. Moccasins of deer skins, shoe packs, and rough shoes, the leather tanned and cobbled by the owner, are worn on the feet.
The females' dress in a coarse gown of cotton, a bonnet of the same stuff, and denominated in the eastern states a "sun-bonnet." The latter is constantly worn through the day, especially when company is present. The clothing for both sexes is made at home. The wheel and loom are common articles of furniture in every cabin.
2. Dwellings.—"Cabin" is the name for a plain, rough log-house, throughout the west. The spot being selected, usually in the timbered land, and near some spring, the first operation of the newly arrived emigrant is to cut about 40 logs of the proper size and length for a single cabin, or twice that number for a double one, and haul them to the spot. A large oak or other suitable timber, of straight grain, and free from limbs, is selected for clapboards for the roof. These are four feet in length, split with a froe six or eight inches wide, and half an inch thick. Puncheons are used for the floor. These are made by splitting trees about eighteen inches in diameter into slabs, two or three inches in thickness, and hewn on the upper surface. The door way is made by cutting out the logs after raising, of a suitable width, and putting upright pieces of timber at the sides. The shutter is made of clapboards, pinned on cross pieces, hung by wooden hinges, and fastened by a wooden latch. A similar aperture, but is wider made at one end for the chimney. The men of the settlement, when notified, collect and raise the building. Four stout men with axes are placed on the corners to notch the logs together, while the rest of the company lift them up. After the roof is on the body of the building, it is slightly hewed down both out and inside. The roof is formed by shortening each end log in succession till one log forms the comb of the roof. The clapboards are put on so as to cover all cracks, and held down by poles or small logs.
The chimney is built of sticks of wood, the largest at the bottom, and the smallest at the top, and laid up with a supply of mud or clay mortar. The interstices between the logs are chinked with strips of wood and daubed with mortar both outside and in. A double cabin consists of two such buildings with a space of 10 or 12 feet between, over which the roof extends.
A log house, in western parlance, differs from a cabin in the logs being hewn on two sides to an equal thickness before raising,—in having a framed and shingled roof, a brick or stone chimney, windows, tight floors, and are frequently clapboarded on the outside and plastered within.
A log house thus finished, costs more than a framed one. Cabins are often the temporary dwellings of opulent and highly respectable families.
The axe, auger, froe, drawing knife, broad-axe, and crosscut saw are the only tools required in constructing these rude edifices;—sometimes the axe and auger only are employed. Not a nail or pane of glass is needed. Cabins are by no means as wretched for residences as their name imports.
They are often roomy, comfortable and neat. If one is not sufficient to accommodate the family, another is added, and another until sufficient room is obtained.
3. Furniture and mode of living.—The genuine backwoodsman makes himself and family comfortable and contented where those, unaccustomed to his mode of life, would live in unavailing regret, or make a thousand awkward apologies on the visit of a neighbor or traveller. A table is made of a split slab and supported by four round legs. Clapboards supported by pins stuck in the logs answer for shelves for table furniture. The bedstead is often made in the corner of the room by sticks placed in the logs, supported at the outward corner by a post, on which clapboards are laid, the ends of which enter the wall between the logs, and which support the bedding. On the arrival of travellers or visiters, the bed clothing is shared with them, being spread on the puncheon floor that the feet may project towards the fire. Many a night has the writer passed in this manner, after a fatiguing day's ride, and reposed more comfortably than on a bed of down in a spacious mansion. All the family of both sexes, with all the strangers who arrive, often lodge in the same room. In that case the under garments are never taken off, and no consciousness of impropriety or indelicacy of feeling is manifested. A few pins stuck in the wall of the cabin display the dresses of the women and the hunting shirts of the men. Two small forks or bucks-horns fastened to a joist are indispensable articles for the support of the rifle. A loose floor of clapboards, and supported by round poles, is thrown over head for a loft which furnishes a place to throw any articles not immediately wanted, and is frequently used for a lodging place for the younger branches of the family. A ladder planted in the corner behind the door answers the purpose of stairs.
The necessary table and kitchen furniture are a few pewter dishes and spoons, knives and forks, (for which however, the common hunting knife is often a substitute,) tin cups for coffee or milk, a water pail and a small gourd or calabash for water, with a pot and iron Dutch oven, constitute the chief articles. Add to these a tray for wetting up meal for corn bread, a coffee pot and set of cups and saucers, a set of common plates, and the cabin is furnished. The hominy mortar and hand mill are in use in all frontier settlements. The first consists of a block of wood with an excavation burned at one end and scraped out with an iron tool, wide at top and narrow at the bottom that the action of the pestle may operate to the best advantage. Sometimes a stump of a large tree is excavated while in its natural position. An elastic pole, 20 or 30 feet in length, with the large end fastened under the ground log of the cabin, and the other elevated 10 or 15 feet and supported by two forks, to which a pestle 5 or 6 inches in diameter and 8 or 10 feet long is fixed on the elevated end by a large mortice, and a pin put through its lower end so that two persons can work it in conjunction. This is much used for pounding corn. A very simple instrument to answer the same purpose, is a circular piece of tin, perforated, and attached to a piece of wood like a grater, on which the ears of corn are rubbed for meal. The hand mill is in the same form as that used in Judea in the time of our Savior. Two circular stones, about 18 inches in diameter constructed like ordinary mill stones, with a staff let into the runner or upper stone near its outer edge, with the upper end inserted in a joist or board over head, and turned by the hands of two persons while one feeds it with corn. Horse mills follow the mortar and hand mill in the scale of improvement. They are constructed variously. A hand mill is the most simple. A large upright post is placed on a gudgeon, with shafts extending horizontally 15 or 20 feet. Around the ends of these is a band of raw hide twisted, which passes around the trundle head and turns the spindle and communicates motion to the stone. A cog mill is formed by constructing a rim with cogs upon the shafts, and a trundle head to correspond. Each person furnishes his own horses to turn the mill, performs his own grinding, and pays toll to the owner for use of the mill. Mills with the wheel on an inclined plane, and carried by oxen standing on the wheel, are much in use in those sections where water power is not convenient, but these indicate an advance to the second grade of society.
Instead of bolting cloths, the frontier people use a sieve or as called here, a "search." This is made from a deer skin prepared to resemble parchment, stretched on a hoop and perforated full of holes with a hot wire.
Every backwoodsman carries on all occasions, the means of furnishing his meat. The rifle, bullet pouch and horn, hunting knife, horse and dog are his constant companions when from home, and woe be to the wolf, bear, deer or turkey that comes within one hundred and fifty yards of his trail.
With the first emigration there are few mechanics; hence every settler becomes expert in supplying his own necessaries. Besides clearing land, building cabins, and making fences, he stocks his own plough, repairs his wagon and his harness, tans his own leather, makes his shoes, tables, bedsteads, stools or seats, trays and a hundred other articles. These may be rudely constructed, but they answer his purpose very well.
The following extracts from the graphic "Sketches of the West," by James Hall, Esq. completes this extended picture of backwoods manners.
"The traveller, accustomed to different modes of life, is struck with the rude and uncomfortable appearance of every thing about this people,—the rudeness of their habitations, the carelessness of their agriculture, the unsightly coarseness of all their implements and furniture, the unambitious homeliness of all their goods and chattels, except the axe, the rifle, and the horse—these being invariably the best and handsomest which their means enable them to procure. But he is mistaken in supposing them indolent or improvident; and is little aware how much ingenuity and toil have been exerted in procuring the few comforts which they possess, in a country without arts, mechanics, money, or commercial intercourse.
"The backwoodsman has many substantial enjoyments. After the fatigue of his journey, and a short season of privation and danger, he finds himself surrounded with plenty. His cattle, hogs, and poultry, supply his table with meat; the forest abounds in game; the fertile soil yields abundant crops; he has, of course, bread, milk, and butter; the rivers furnish fish, and the woods honey. For these various articles, there is, at first, no market, and the farmer acquires the generous habit of spreading them profusely on his table, and giving them freely to a hungry traveller and an indigent neighbor.
"Hospitality and kindness are among the virtues of the first settlers. Exposed to common dangers and toils, they become united by the closest ties of social intercourse. Accustomed to arm in each other's defence, to aid in each other's labor, to assist in the affectionate duty of nursing the sick, and the mournful office of burying the dead, the best affections of the heart are kept in constant exercise; and there is, perhaps, no class of men in our country, who obey the calls of benevolence, with such cheerful promptness, or with so liberal a sacrifice of personal convenience.
"We read marvellous stories of the ferocity of western men. The name of Kentuckian is constantly associated with the idea of fighting, dirking, and gouging. The people of whom we are now writing do not deserve this character. They live together in great harmony, with little contention and less litigation. The backwoodsmen are a generous and placable race. They are bold and impetuous; and when differences do arise among them, they are more apt to give vent to their resentment at once, than to brood over their wrongs, or to seek legal redress. But this conduct is productive of harmony; for men are always more guarded in their deportment to each other, and more cautious of giving offence, when they know that the insult will be quickly felt, and instantly resented, than when the consequences of an offensive action are doubtful, and the retaliation distant. We have no evidence that the pioneers of Kentucky were quarrelsome or cruel; and an intimate acquaintance with the same race, at a later period, has led the writer to the conclusion, that they are a humane people; bold and daring, when opposed to an enemy, but amiable in their intercourse with each other and with strangers, and habitually inclined to peace."
In morals and the essential principles of religion, this class of people are by no means so defective as many imagine. The writer has repeatedly been in settlements and districts beyond the pale of civil and criminal law, where the people are a "law unto themselves," where courts, lawyers, sheriffs, and constables existed not, and yet has seen as much quiet and order, and more honesty in paying just debts, than where legal restraints operated in all their force. The turpitude of vice and the majesty of virtue, were as apparent as in older settlements. Industry, in laboring or hunting, bravery in war, candor, honesty, and hospitality were rewarded with the confidence and honor of the people. Regulating parties would exist, and thieves, rogues and counterfeiters were sure to receive a striped Jacket "worked nineteen to the dozen," and by this mode of operation, induced to "clear out;" but truth, uprightness, honesty and sincerity are always respected. Many of the frontier class are illiterate, but they are by no means ignorant. They are a shrewd, observing, thinking people. They may not have learned the black marks in books, but they have studied men and things, and have a quick insight into human nature. They are not inattentive to religion, though their opportunities of religious instruction are few, compared with old countries. They have prejudices and fears about many of the organized benevolent societies of the present age, yet there are no people more readily disposed to attend religious meetings, and whose hearts are more readily affected with the gospel than the backwoods people; and as large a proportion are orderly professors of religion as in any part of the Union. Ministers of the gospel and Missionaries, who can suit themselves to the circumstances and habits of frontier people,—who like Paul, can "become all things to all men,"—find pleasant and interesting fields of labor on all our frontiers. But let such persons show fastidiousness, affect superior intelligence and virtue, catechise the people for their plainness and simplicity of manners, and draw invidious comparisons, and they are sure to be "used up," or left without hearers, to deplore the "dark clouds" of ignorance and prejudice in the west.
Hunters and Trappers. Entirely beyond the boundaries of civilization are many hundreds of a unique class, distinguished by the terms Hunters and Trappers. They are engaged in hunting buffalo and other wild game, and trapping for beaver. They are found upon the vast prairies of the West and Northwest,—in all the defiles and along the streams of the Rocky mountains, and in various parts of the Oregon Territory, to the peninsula of California. They are an enterprising and erratic race from almost every state, and are usually in the employ of persons of capital and enterprise, and who are concerned in the fur and peltry business. Expeditions for one, two, or three years, are fitted out from St. Louis, or some commercial point, consisting of companies, who ascend the rivers to the regions of fur. The hunters and trappers, receive a proportion of the profits of the expedition. Some become so enamored with this wandering and exposed life as to lose all desire of returning to the abodes of civilization, and remain for the rest of their lives in the American deserts. There are individuals, who are graduates of colleges, and who once stood high in the circles of refinement and taste, that have passed more than twenty years amongst the roaming tribes of the Rocky mountains, or on the western slope, till they have apparently lost all feelings towards civilized life. They have afforded an interesting but melancholy example of the tendencies of human nature towards the degraded state of savages. The improvement of the species is a slow and laborious process,—the deterioration is rapid, and requires only to be divested of restraint, and left to its own unaided tendencies. Many others have returned to the habits of civilization, and some with fortunes made from the woods and prairies.
Boatmen. These are the fresh water sailors of the West, with much of the light hearted, reckless character of the sons of the Ocean, including peculiar shades of their own. Before the introduction of Steamboats on the western waters, its immense commerce was carried on by means of keel boats, and barges. The former is much in the shape of a canal boat, long, slim-built, sharp at each end, and propelled by setting poles and the cordelle or long rope. The barge is longer, and has a bow and stern. Both are calculated to ascend streams but by a very slow process. Each boat would require from ten to thirty hands, according to its size. A number of these boats frequently sailed in company. The boatmen were proverbially lawless at every town and landing, and indulged without restraint in every species of dissipation, debauchery and excess. But this race has become reformed, or nearly extinct;—yes, reformed by the mighty power of steam. A steamboat, with half the crew of a barge or keel, will carry ten times the burden, and perform six or eight trips in the time it took a keel boat to make one voyage. Thousands of flat boats, or "broad horns," as they are called, pass down the rivers with the produce of the country, which are managed by the farmers of the West, but never return up stream. They are sold for lumber, and the owners, after disposing of the cargo, return by steam. The number of boatmen on the western waters is not only greatly reduced, but those that remain are fast losing their original character.
CHAPTER V.
PUBLIC LANDS.
System of Surveys.—Meridian and Base Lines.—Townships.—Diagram of a township
surveyed into Sections.—Land Districts and Offices. —Pre-emption rights.—Military
Bounty Lands.—Taxes.—Valuable Tracts of country unsettled.
In all the new states and territories, the lands which are owned by the general government, are surveyed and sold under one general system. Several offices, each under the direction of a surveyor general, have been established by acts of Congress, and districts, embracing one or more states, assigned them. The office for the surveys of all public lands in Ohio, Indiana, Michigan, and the Wisconsin country is located at Cincinnati. The one including the states of Illinois and Missouri, and the territory of Arkansas is at St. Louis. Deputy surveyors are employed to do the work at a stipulated rate per mile, generally from three to four dollars, who employ chain bearers, an axe, and flag man, and a camp-keeper. They are exposed to great fatigue and hardship, spending two or three months at a time in the woods and prairies, with slight, moveable camps for shelter.
In the surveys, "meridian" lines are first established, running north from the mouth of some noted river. These are intersected with "base" lines.
There are five principal meridians in the land surveys in the west.
The "First Principal Meridian" is a line due north from the mouth of the Miami.
The "Second Principal Meridian" is a line due north from the mouth of Little Blue river, in Indiana.
The "Third Principal Meridian" is a line due north from the mouth of the Ohio.
The "Fourth Principal Meridian" is a line due north from the mouth of the Illinois.
The "Fifth Principal Meridian" is a line due north from the mouth of the Arkansas. Another Meridian is used for Michigan, which passes through the central part of the state. Its base line extends from about the middle of lake St. Clair, across the state west to lake Michigan. Each of these meridians has its own base line.
The surveys connected with the third and fourth meridians, and a small portion of the second, embrace the state of Illinois.
The base line for both the second and third principal meridians commences at Diamond Island, in Ohio, opposite Indiana, and runs due west till it strikes the Mississippi, a few miles below St. Louis.
All the townships in Illinois, south and east of the Illinois river, are numbered from this base line either north or south.
The third principal meridian terminates with the northern boundary of the state.
The fourth principal meridian commences in in the centre of the channel, and at the mouth of the Illinois river, but immediately crosses to the east shore, and passes up on that side, (and at one place nearly fourteen miles distant) to a point in the channel of the river, seventy-two miles from its mouth. Here its base line commences and extends across the peninsula to the Mississippi, a short distance above Quincy. The fourth principal meridian is continued northward through the military tract, and across Rock river, to a curve in the Mississippi at the upper rapids, in township eighteen north, and about twelve or fifteen miles above Rock Island. It here crosses and passes up the west side of the Mississippi river fifty-three miles, and recrosses into Illinois, and passes through the town of Galena to the northern boundary of the state. It is thence continued to the Wisconsin river and made the principal meridian for the surveys of the territory, while the northern boundary line of the state is constituted its base line for that region.
Having formed a principal meridian with its corresponding base line, for a district of country, the next operation of the surveyor is to divide this into tracts of six miles square, called "townships."
In numbering the townships east or west from a principal meridian, they are called "ranges," meaning a range of townships; but in numbering north or south from a base line, they are called "townships." Thus a tract of land is said to be situated in township four north in range three east, from the third principal meridian; or as the case may be.
Townships are subdivided into square miles, or tracts of 640 acres each, called "sections." If near timber, trees are marked and numbered with the section, township, and range, near each sectional corner. If in a large prairie, a mound is raised to designate the corner, and a billet of charred wood buried, if no rock is near. Sections are divided into halves by a line north and south, and into quarters by a transverse line. In sales under certain conditions, quarters are sold in equal subdivisions of forty acres each, at one dollar and twenty-five cents per acre. Any person, whether a native born citizen, or a foreigner, may purchase forty acres of the richest soil, and receive an indisputable title, for fifty dollars.
Ranges are townships counted either east or west from meridians.
Townships are counted either north or south from their respective base lines.
Fractions, are parts of quarter sections intersected by streams or confirmed claims.
The parts of townships, sections, quarters, &c. made at the lines of either townships or meridians are called excesses or deficiencies.
Sections, or miles square are numbered, beginning in the northeast corner of the township, progressively west to the range line, and then progressively east to the range line, alternately, terminating at the southeast corner of the township, from one to thirty-six, as in the following diagram:
| 6 | 5 | 4 | 3 | 2 | 1 |
| 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 |
| 18 | 17 | 16[A] | 15 | 14 | 13 |
| 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 |
| 30 | 29 | 28 | 27 | 26 | 25 |
| 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 |
[A]Appropriated for schools in the township.
I have been thus particular in this account of the surveys of public lands, to exhibit the simplicity of a system, that to strangers, unacquainted with the method of numbering the sections, and the various subdivisions, appears perplexing and confused.
All the lands of Congress owned in Ohio have been surveyed, and with the exceptions of some Indian reservations, have been brought into market. In Indiana, all the lands purchased of the Indians have been surveyed, and with the exception of about ninety townships and fractional townships, have been offered for sale. These, amounting to about two millions of acres, will be offered for sale the present year. In Michigan, nearly all the ceded lands have been surveyed and brought into market. The unsurveyed portion is situated in the neighborhood of Saginaw bay; a part of which may be ready for market within the current year.
In the Wisconsin Territory, west of lake Michigan, all the lands in the Wisconsin district, which lies between the state of Illinois and the Wisconsin river, have been surveyed; and in addition to the lands already offered for sale in the Green Bay district, about 65 townships, and fractional townships, have been surveyed and are ready for market. The surveys of the whole country west of lake Michigan and south of the Wisconsin river, in Illinois and Wisconsin territory, will soon be surveyed and in market. Here are many millions of the finest lands on earth, lying along the Des Pleines, Fox, and Rock rivers, and their tributaries, well watered, rich soil, a healthy atmosphere, and facilities to market. A temporary scarcity of timber in some parts of this region will retard settlements, for a time; but this difficulty will be obviated, by the rapidity with which prairie land turns to a timbered region, wherever, by contiguous settlements, the wild grass becomes subdued, and by the discovery of coal beds. Much of it is a mineral region. In Illinois, the surveys are now completed in the Danville district, and in the southern part of the Chicago district. They are nearly completed along Rock river and the Mississippi. The unsurveyed portion is along Fox river, Des Pleines and the shore of lake Michigan, in the north-eastern part of the state. Emigrants, however, do not wait for surveys and sales. They are settling over this fine portion of the state, in anticipation of purchases. In Missouri, besides the former surveys, the exterior lines of 138 townships, and the subdivision into sections and quarters, 30 townships in the northern part of the state, and contracts for running the exterior lines of 189 townships on the waters of the Osage and Grand rivers have been made. A large portion of this state is now surveyed and in market. Surveys are progressing in Arkansas, and large bodies of land are proclaimed for sale in that district.
I have no data before me that will enable me definitely to show the amount of public lands now remaining unsold, in each land office district. In another place I have already given an estimate of the amount of public lands, within the organized states and territories, remaining unsold, compared with the amount sold in past years.
The following table exhibits the number of acres sold in the districts embraced more immediately within the range of this Guide, for 1834, and the three first quarters of 1835, with the names of each district in each state. It is constructed from the Report of the Commissioner of the General Land Office to the Treasury Department, December 5th, 1835. The sales of the last quarter of 1835, in Illinois, and probably in the other states, greatly exceeded either the other quarters, and which will be exhibited in the annual report of the Commissioner in December, 1836.
The reader will perceive that the sales of the three first quarters of 1835, almost doubled those of the whole year of 1834. The inquiry was often made of the writer, while travelling in the Atlantic states in the summer of 1835, whether there was still opportunity for emigrants to purchase public lands in Indiana, Illinois, &c. where land offices had been opened for sale of lands many years. He found almost everywhere, wrong notions prevailing. The people were not aware of the immense extent of the public domain now in market, and ready to be sold at one dollar and twenty-five cents per acre, and even in as small tracts as forty acres. Take for example, the Edwardsville district, in which the writer resides. It extends south to the base line, east to the third principal meridian, north to the line that separates townships 13 and 14 north, and west to the Illinois and Mississippi rivers, and embraces all the counties of Madison, Clinton, Bond, Montgomery, Macouper, and Greene, a tier of townships on the south side of Morgan and Sangamon, five and a half townships from Fayette, and about half of St. Clair county. The lands for a part of this district have been in market for 18 or 20 years;—it contains some of the oldest American settlements in the state, and has also a number of confined claims never offered for sale. And yet the receiver of this office informed me in November last, that he had just made returns of all the lands sold in this district, and they amounted to just one third of the whole quantity. Every man, therefore, may take it for granted that there will be land enough in market in all the new states, for his use, during the present generation. These are facts that should be known to all classes. The mania of land speculation and of monopolists would soon subside, were those concerned to sit down coolly, and after ascertaining the amount of public lands now in market, with the vast additional quantity that must soon come into market, use a few figures in common arithmetic, with the probable amount of emigration, and ascertain the probable extent of the demand for this article at any future period.
The following information is necessary for those who are not acquainted with our land system.
In each land office there are a Register and Receiver, appointed by the President and Senate for the term of four years, and paid by the government.
After being surveyed, the land, by proclamation of the President, is offered for sale at public auction by half quarter sections, or tracts of 80 acres. If no one bids for it at one dollar and twenty-five cents per acre, or more, it is subject to private entry at any time after, upon payment of $1.25 cents per acre at the time of entry. No credit in any case is allowed.
In many cases, Congress, by special statute, has granted to actual settlers, pre-emption rights, where settlements and improvements have been made on public lands previous to public sale.
Pre-emption rights confer the privilege only of purchasing the tract containing improvements at one dollar and twenty-five cents per acre, by the possessor, without the risk of a public sale.
In Illinois and several other western states, all lands purchased of the general government, are exempted from taxation for five years after purchase.
Military Bounty lands.—These lands were surveyed and appropriated as bounties to the soldiers in the war with Great Britain in 1812-'15, to encourage enlistments. The selections were made in Illinois, Missouri, and Arkansas. The Bounty lands of Illinois lie between the Illinois and Mississippi rivers, in the counties of Calhoun, Pike, Adams, Schuyler, Macdonough, Warren, Mercer, Knox, Henry, Fulton, Peoria, and Putnam. Out of five millions of acres, 3,500,000 were selected, including about three-fifths of this tract. The remainder is disposed of in the manner of other public lands. The disposition of this fine country for military bounties has much retarded its settlement. It was a short-sighted and mistaken policy of government that dictated this measure. Most of the titles have long since departed from the soldiers for whose benefit the donations were made. Many thousand quarter sections have been sold for taxes by the state, have fallen into the hands of monopolists, and are now past redemption. The Bounty lands in Missouri, lie on the waters of Chariton and Grand rivers, north side of the Missouri river and in the counties of Chariton, Randolph, Carroll, and Ray, and include half a million of acres. The tract is generally fertile, undulating, a mixture of timber and prairie, but not as well watered as desirable. With the bounty lands of Arkansas I am not well acquainted. Their general character is good, and some tracts are rich cotton lands.
Taxes.—Lands bought of the U. S. government are exempted from taxation for five years after sale. All other lands owned by non-residents, equally with those of residents, are subject to taxation annually, either for state, or county purposes, or both. The mode and amount varies in each state. If not paid when due, costs are added, the lands sold, subject to redemption within a limited period;—generally two years. Every non-resident landholder should employ an agent within the state where his land lies, to look after it and pay his taxes, if he would not suffer the loss of his land.
CHAPTER VI.
ABORIGINES.
Conjecture respecting their former numbers and condition. Present number and state.—Indian Territory appropriated as their permanent residence.—Plan and operations of the U. S. Government.—Missionary efforts and stations. Monuments and Antiquities.
The idea is entertained, that the Valley of the Mississippi, was once densely populated by aborigines;—that here were extensive nations,—that the bones of many millions lie mouldering under our feet. It has become a common theory, that previous to the settlement of the country by people of European descent, there were two successive races of men, quite distinct from each other;—that the first race, by some singular fatality, became exterminated, leaving no traditionary account of their existence. And the second race, the ancestors of the existing race of Indians, are supposed to have been once, far more numerous than the present white population of the Valley.
Some parts of Mexico and South America, were found to be populous upon the first visits of the Spaniards; but I do not find satisfactory evidence that population was ever dense, in any part of the territory that now constitutes our Republic. Mr. Atwater supposes, from the mounds in Ohio, the Indian population far exceeded 700,000, at one time in that district. Mr. Flint says, "If we can infer nothing else from the mounds, we can clearly infer, that this country once had its millions." Hence, a principal argument assigned for the populousness of this country is, the millions buried in these tumuli, the bones of which, in a tolerable state of preservation, are supposed to be exhibited upon excavation. The writer has witnessed the opening of many of these mounds, and has seen the fragments of an occasional skeleton, found near the surface. Without stopping here to enter upon a disquisition on the hypothesis assumed, that these mounds, as they are termed, are as much the results of natural causes, as any other prominences on the surface of the globe: I will only remark, that it is a fact well known to frontier men, that the Indians have been in the habit of burying their dead on these ridges and hillocks, and that in our light, spongy soil, the skeleton decays surprisingly fast. This is not the place to exhibit the necessary data, that have led to the conviction, that not a human skeleton now exists in all the western Valley, (excepting in nitrous caves,) that was deposited in the earth before the discovery of the New World, by Columbus.
The opinion that this Valley was once densely populous, is sustained from the supposed military works, distributed through the West. This subject, as well as that of mounds, wants re-examination. Probably, half a dozen enclosures, in a rude form, might have been used for military defence. The capabilities of the country to sustain a dense population, has been used to support the position, that it must have been once densely populated. This argues nothing without vestiges of agriculture and the arts. With the exception of a few small patches, around the Indian villages, for corn and pulse, the whole land was an unbroken wilderness. Strangers to the subject have imagined that our western prairies must once have been subdued by the hand of cultivation, because denuded of timber. Those who have long lived on them, have the evidences of observation, and their senses, to guide them. They know that the earth will not produce timber, while the surface is covered with a firm grassy sward, and that timber will spring up, as soon as this obstruction is removed.
To all these theories, of the former density of the aboriginal population of the Valley, I oppose, first, the fact that but a scattered and erratic population was found here, on the arrival of the Europeans,—that the people were rude savages, subsisting chiefly by hunting, and that no savage people ever became populous,—that from time immemorial, the different tribes had been continually at war with each other,—that but a few years before the French explored it, the Iroquois, or Five nations, conquered all the country to the Mississippi, which they could not have done had it been populous, and that Kentucky, one of the finest portions of the Valley, was not inhabited by any people, but the common hunting and fighting grounds of both the northern and southern Indians, and hence called by them, Kentuckee, or the "Bloody ground."[7]
That the Indian character has deteriorated, and the numbers of each tribe greatly lessened by contact with Europeans and their descendants, is not questioned; but many of the descriptions of the comforts and happiness of savage life and manners, before their country was possessed by the latter, are the exaggerated and glowing descriptions of poetic fancy. Evidence enough can be had to show that they were degraded and wretched, engaged in petty exterminating wars with each other, often times in a state of starvation, and leading a roving, indolent and miserable existence. Their government was anarchy.—Properly speaking, civil government had never existed amongst them. They had no executive, or judiciary power, and their legislation was the result of their councils held by aged and experienced men. It had no stronger claim upon the obedience of the people than advice.
In Mexico, civilization had made progress, and there were populous towns and cities, and edifices for religious and other purposes. With the exception of some very rude structures, the ruins of which yet remain, and which upon too slight grounds, have been mistaken for military works, nothing is left as marks of the enterprise of the feeble bands of Indians of this Valley. Their implements, utensils, weapons of war, and water-craft, were of the most rude and simple construction, and yet prepared with great labor. Those who have written upon Indian manners, without personal and long acquaintance with their circumstances, have made extravagant blunders. The historian of America, Dr. Robertson, seems to suppose that the Indians cut down large trees, and dug out canoes with stone hatchets,—and that they cleared the timber from their small fields, by the same tedious process. Their stone axes or hatchets, were never used for cutting, but only for splitting and pounding. They burned down and hollowed out trees by fire, for canoes, and never chopped off the timber, but only deadened it, in clearing land. The condition of depraved man, unimproved by habits of civilization, and unblest with the influences and consolations of the gospel, is pitiable in the extreme. Such was the character and condition of the "Red skin," before his land was visited by the "Pale faces." I have often seen the aboriginal man in all his primeval wildness, when he first came in contact with the evils and benefits of civilization,—have admired his noble form and lofty bearing,—listened to his untutored and yet powerful eloquence, and yet have found in him the same humbling and melancholy proofs of his wretchedness and want, as is found in the remnants on our borders.
The introduction of ardent spirits, and of several diseases, are the evils furnished the Indian race, by contact with the whites, while in other respects their condition has been improved.
From the second number of the "Annual Register of Indian Affairs, within the Indian (or western) Territory," just published by the Rev. Isaac McCoy, the following particulars have been chiefly gleaned:
Mr. McCoy has been devoted to the work of Indian reform for almost twenty years, first in Indiana, then in Michigan, and latterly in the Indian territory, west of Missouri and Arkansas. He is not only intimately acquainted with the peculiar circumstances of this unfortunate race, and with the country selected as their future residence by the government, but is ardently and laboriously engaged for their welfare.
INDIAN TERRITORY.
The Indian territory lies west and immediately adjacent to Missouri and Arkansas. It is about 600 miles long from north to south, extending from the Missouri river to the Red river, and running westwardly as far as the country is habitable, which is estimated to be about 200 miles. The almost destitution of timber, with extensive deserts, renders most of the country from this territory to the Rocky mountains uninhabitable. The dreams indulged by many, that the wave of white population is to move onward without any resisting barrier, till it reaches these mountains, and even overleap them to the Pacific ocean, will never be realized. Providence has thrown a desert of several hundred miles in extent, as an opposing barrier.
As very contradictory accounts have gone abroad, prejudicial to the character of the country selected for the Indians, it becomes necessary to describe it with some particularity. The following, from Mr. McCoy (if it needed any additional support to its correctness,) is corroborated by the statements of many disinterested persons.
"There is a striking similarity between all parts of this territory. In its general character, it is high and undulating, rather level than hilly; though small portions partly deserve the latter appellation. The soil is generally very fertile. It is thought that in no part of the world, so extensive a region of rich soil has been discovered as in this, of which the Indian territory is a central position. It is watered by numerous rivers, creeks and rivulets. Its waters pass through it eastwardly, none of which are favorable to navigation. There is less marshy and stagnant water in it than is usual in the western country. The atmosphere is salubrious, and the climate precisely such as is desirable, being about the same as that inhabited by the Indians on the east of the Mississippi. It contains much mineral coal and salt water, some lead, and some iron ore. Timber is too scarce, and this is a serious defect, but one which time will remedy, as has been demonstrated by the growth of timber in prairie countries which have been settled, where the grazing of stock, by diminishing the quantity of grass, renders the annual fires less destructive to the growth of wood. The prairie (i. e., land destitute of wood) is covered with grass, much of which is of suitable length for the scythe."
The Chocktaws, Creeks, Cherokees, Osages, Kanzaus and Delawares, are entitled to lands westward of this territory for hunting grounds; some to the western boundary of the United States, others to the Rocky mountains.
Mr. McCoy estimates the number of inhabitants of this territory at 47,733.
| INDIGENOUS TRIBES | |
| Osage, about | 5,510 |
| Kanzau, about | 1,684 |
| Ottoe and Missourias, | 1,600 |
| O'Mahaus, | 1,400 |
| Pawnees, four tribes, | 10,000 |
| Puncahs, about | 800 |
| Quapaws, about | 450 |
| 21,444 | |
| EMIGRANT TRIBES | |
| Chocktaw, about | 15,500 |
| Cherokee, about | 4,000 |
| Creek, about | 3,600 |
| Seneca, Shawanoe of Neosho, | 462 |
| Wea, about | 225 |
| Piankesahu, | 119 |
| Peoria and Kaskaskias, | 135 |
| Ottawa, | 81 |
| Shawanoe of Kanzau river, | 764 |
| Delaware, | 856 |
| Kickapoo | 603 |
| Putawatomie, | 444 |
| Emigrants, | 26,289 |
| Indigenous, | 21,444 |
| Total, | 47,733 |
The estimate of the Chocktaws include about 400 negro slaves,—that of the Cherokees 500, and that of the Creeks about 450 slaves.
Chocktaws. Their country adjoins Red river and the Province of Texas on the south, Arkansas on the east, and extends north to the Arkansas and Canadian rivers, being 150 miles from north to south, and 200 miles from east to west. Here are numerous salt springs. For civil purposes, their country is divided into three districts.
Cherokees. The boundaries of their country commences on the Arkansas river, opposite the western boundary of Arkansas Territory;—thence northwardly along the line of Missouri, 8 miles to Seneca river;—thence west to the Neosho river;—thence up said river to the Osage lands;—thence west indefinitely, as far as habitable;—thence south to the Creek lands, and along the eastern line of the Creeks to a point 43 miles west of the Territory of Arkansas, and 25 miles north of Arkansas river;—thence to the Verdigris river, and down Arkansas river, to the mouth of the Neosho;—thence southwardly to the junction of the North Fork and Canadian rivers;—and thence down the Canadian and Arkansas rivers to the place of beginning. The treaty of 1828, secures to this tribe 7,000,000 of acres, and adds land westward for hunting grounds as far as the U. S. boundaries extend.
The Creeks, or Muscogees, occupy the country west of Arkansas that lies between the lands of the Chocktaws and Cherokees.
The Senecas join the State of Missouri on the east, with the Cherokees south, the Neosho river west, and possess 127,500 acres.
The Osage (a French corruption of Wos-sosh-ee, their proper name, which has again been corrupted by Darby and others into Ozark) have their country north of the western portion of the Cherokee lands, commencing 25 miles west of the State of Missouri, with a width of 50 miles, and extending indefinitely west. About half the tribe are in the Cherokee country.
The Quapaws were originally connected with the Osages. They have migrated from the lower Arkansas, and have their lands adjoining the State of Missouri, immediately north of the Senecas.
The Putawatomies are on the north-eastern side of the Missouri river, but they are not satisfied, and the question of their locality is not fully settled. 444 Putawatomies are mingled with the Kickapoos, on the south-west side of the Missouri river.
The Weas, Piankeshaws, Peorias and Kaskaskias are remnants of the great western confederacy, of which the Miamies were the most prominent branch. These and other tribes constituted the Illini, Oillinois, or Illinois nation, that once possessed the country now included in the great States of Indiana, Illinois, &c. Their lands lie west of the State of Missouri, and south-west of the Missouri river.
The Delawares occupy a portion of the country in the forks of the Kanzau river, (or, as written by the French, Kansas.) They are the remnants of another great confederacy, the Lenni-Lenopi, as denominated by themselves.
The lands of the Kickapoos lie north of the Delawares, and along the Missouri, including 768,000 acres.
The Ottoes occupy a tract of country between the Missouri and Platte rivers, but their land is said to extend south and below the Platte.
The country of the O'Mahaus has the Platte river on the south, and the Missouri north-east.
The country of the Pawnees lies to the westward of the Ottoes and O'Mahaus. The boundaries are not defined.
The Puncahs are a small tribe that originated from the Pawnees, and live in the northern extremity of the country spoken of as the Indian territory.
Present Condition.—The Chocktaws, Cherokees and Creeks are more advanced in civilized habits then any other tribes. They have organized local governments of their own, have enacted some wholesome laws, live in comfortable houses, raise horses, cattle, sheep and swine, cultivate the ground, have good fences, dress like Americans, and manufacture much of their own clothing. They have schools and religious privileges, by missionary efforts, to a limited extent. The Cherokees have a written language, perfect in its form, the invention of Mr. Guess, a full-blooded Indian. The Senecas, Delawares, and Shawanoes, also, are partially civilized, and live with considerable comfort from the produce of their fields and stock. The Putawatomies, Weas, Piankeshaws, Peorias, Kaskaskias, Ottawas, and Kickapoos, have partially adopted civilized customs. Some live in comfortable log cabins, fence and cultivate the ground, and have a supply of stock; others live in bark huts, and are wretched. The Osages or Wos-sosh-ees, Quapaws, Kanzaus, Ottoes, O'Mahaus, Pawnees and Puncahs have made much less improvement in their mode of living. A few have adopted civilized habits, and are rising in the scale of social and individual comforts, but the larger portion are yet Indians.
Mr. McCoy estimates the whole number of aborigines in North America, including those of Mexico, at 1,800,000, of which 10,000 are so far improved as to be classed with civilized men, and amongst whom, there are as many pious Christians, as amongst the same amount of population in the United States. In addition to these, he estimates that there may be about 60,000 more, "which may have made advances toward civilization, some more and some less."
For some years past, the policy of the government of the United States has been directed to the project of removing all the Indians from the country organized into States and Territories, and placing them sufficiently contiguous to be easily governed, and yet removed from direct contact and future interruption from white population. This project was recommended in the period of Mr. Monroe's administration, was further considered and some progress made under that of Mr. Adams, but has been carried into more successful execution within the last five years. It is much to be regretted that this project was not commenced earlier. The residence of small bands of Indians, with their own feeble and imperfect government, carried on within any organized state or territory, is ruinous. Those who argue that because of the removal of the Indians from within the jurisdiction of the states, or an organized territory, therefore they will be driven back from the country in which it is now proposed to place them, evince but a very partial and imperfect view of the subject. The present operation of government is an experiment, and it is one that ought to receive a fair and full trial. If it does not succeed, I know not of any governmental regulation that can result, with success, to the prosperity of the Indians. The project is to secure to each tribe, by patent, the lands allotted them,—to form them into a territorial government, with some features of the representative principle,—to have their whole country under the supervision of our government, as their guardian, for their benefit,—to allow no white men to pass the lines and intermix with the Indians, except those who are licensed by due authority,—to aid them in adopting civilized habits, provide for them schools and other means of improving their condition, and, through the agency of missionary societies, to instruct them in the principles of the gospel of Christ.
Missionary Efforts and Stations.—These are conducted by the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions,—the Baptist Board of F. Missions,—the Methodist Epis. Missionary Society,—the Western Foreign Missionary Society,—and the Cumberland Presbyterians. Stations have been formed, and schools established, with most of these tribes. About 2,500 are members of Christian churches of different denominations. The particulars of these operations are to be found in the Reports of the respective societies, and the various religious periodicals.
Of other tribes within the Valley of the Mississippi, and not yet within the Indian territory, the following estimate is sufficiently near the truth for practical purposes.
| Indians from New York, about Green Bay | 725 |
| Wyandots in Ohio and Michigan | 623 |
| Miamies | 1,200 |
| Winnebagoes | 4,591 |
| Chippeways, or O'Jibbeways | 6,793 |
| Ottawas and Cnhippeways of lake Michigan | 5,300 |
| Chippeways, Ottawas and Putawatomies | 8,000 |
| Putawatomies | 1,400 |
| Menominees | 4,200 |
They are all east of the Mississippi, and chiefly found on the reservations in Ohio, Indiana, and Michigan, and in the country between the Wisconsin river and lake Superior. Those tribes west of the Mississippi river, and along the region of the upper Missouri river, are as follows:
| Sioux | 27,500 |
| Ioways | 1,200 |
| Sauks of Missouri | 500 |
| Sauks and Foxes | 6,400 |
| Assinaboines | 8,000 |
| Crees | 3,000 |
| Gros Ventres | 3,000 |
| Aurekaras | 3,000 |
| Cheyennes | 2,000 |
| Mandans | 1,500 |
| Black Feet | 30,000 |
| Camanches | 7,000 |
| Minatarees | 1,500 |
| Crows | 4,500 |
| Arrepahas and Kiawas | 1,400 |
| Caddoes | 800 |
| Snake and other tribes within the Rocky mountains | 20,000 |
| West of the Rocky mountains | 80,000 |
The Camanches, Arrepahas, Kiawas and Caddoes roam over the great plains towards the sources of the Arkansas and Red rivers, and through the northern parts of Texas. The Black Feet are towards the heads of the Missouri.
Monuments and Antiquities.—Before dismissing the subject of the aborigines, I shall touch very briefly on the monuments and antiquities of the west,—with strong convictions that there has been much exaggeration on this subject. I have already intimated that the mounds of the west are natural formations, but I have not room for the circumstances and facts that go to sustain this theory. The number of objects considered as antiquities is greatly exaggerated. The imaginations of men have done much. The number of mounds on the American bottom in Illinois, adjacent to Cahokia creek, is stated by Mr. Flint at 200. The writer has counted all the elevations of surface for the extent of nine miles, and they amount to 72. One of these, Monk hill, is much too large, and three fourths of the rest are quite too small for human labor. The pigmy graves on the Merrimeek, Mo., in Tennessee, and other places, upon closer inspection, have been found to contain decayed skeletons of the ordinary size, but buried with the leg and thigh bones in contact. The giant skeletons sometimes found, are the bones of buffalo.
It is much easier for waggish laborers to deposit old horse shoes and other iron articles where they are at work, for the special pleasure of digging them up for credulous antiquarians, than to find proofs of the existence of the horses that wore them!
There may, or may not, be monuments and antiquities that belong to a race of men of prior existence to the present race of Indians. All that the writer urges is, that this subject may not be considered as settled; that due allowance may be made for the extreme credulity of some, and the want of personal observation and examination of other writers on this subject. Gross errors have been committed, and exaggerations of very trivial circumstances have been made.
The antiquities belonging to the Indian race are neither numerous or interesting, unless we except the remains of rude edifices and enclosures, the walls of which are almost invariably embankments of earth. They are rude axes and knives of stone, bottles and vessels of potter's ware, arrow and spear heads, rude ornaments, &c.
Roman, French, Italian, German and English coins and medals, with inscriptions, have been found,—most unquestionably brought by Europeans,—probably by the Jesuits and other orders, who were amongst the first explorers of the west, and who had their religious houses here more than a century past.
Copper and silver ornaments have been discovered in the mounds that have been opened. The calumet, or large stone pipe, is often found in Indian graves. Two facts deserve to be regarded by those who examine mounds and Indian cemeteries. First, that the Indians have been accustomed to bury their dead in these mounds. Secondly, that they were accustomed to place various ornaments, utensils, weapons, and other articles of value, the property of the deceased, in these graves, especially if a chieftain, or man of note. A third fact known to our frontier people, is the custom of several Indian tribes wrapping their dead in strips of bark, or encasing them with the halves of a hollow log, and placing them in the forks of trees. This was the case specially, when their deaths occurred while on hunting or war parties. At stated seasons these relics were collected, with much solemnity, brought to the common sepulchre of the tribe, and deposited with their ancestors. This accounts for the confused manner in which the bones are often found in mounds and Indian graveyards. Human skeletons, or rather mummies, have been discovered in the nitrous caves of Kentucky. The huge bones of the mammoth and other enormous animals, have been exhumed, at the Bigbone licks in Kentucky and in other places.