Friday, Decr. 10
We could not leave the inn so soon as we intended on account (fol. 108a) of our boots not being ready so bad is the workmanship of the shoemakers in Wales that the repairs of one day were destroyed by the exertions of the next, and it was a business almost as regular as eating our dinner when we arrived at the inn to send our boots to get mended. Here I hope we have had them secured effectually as we ordered them to be studded with nails according to the fashion of the country. Although on our arrival we scarcely gained admittance at the inn as pedestrians yet on our departure we had to pay the bill calculated for equestrians of the first order so much had our consequence been raised by the loquacity of our attendant in the kitchen.
This heavy blow on our finances with the loss we had sustained at Llanfechell caused a calculation to be made which promised only three days’ supply supposing our concerns should fall into the hands of so experienced a scribe as the landlady at Amlwch (fol. 109). About eleven we were clear of the inn and took the road across the fields to the small church of Bodewryd where we understood were some remains of the Wynne family a branch of which family was settled at a large mansion now a farm near the spot. The church door being open we found the interior occupied by a grey headed pedagogue and his schollars. On the pulpit were carved the arms of the Wynne’s and the seats and communion table exhibited the same kind of ornaments cut in oak before noticed at Llanelian. This living was augmented by Queen Anne’s bounty and further donations as appears engraven on a brass tablet affixed to the north side of the altar:
M. S.
Annae Reginae serenissimae
cujus munificentia sine exemplo maximae
inter innumeras alias per magnam
(fol. 109a) Britanniam late sparsas
Tenuissima haec de Bodewryd ecclesia
cujus stipendium annuum xx solidos ante non exedebat
libris ducentis donata est
promovente interim pietatem hanc
et totidem libras de proprio conferente
per ultimum testamentum suum
Dat. 6to Septembris A.D. 1720
Roberto Wynne A.M. rectori de Llantrisant
Filio Johannis Wynne de Bodewryd Arm.Sexto et natu maximo
quibus pecuniis aliquantulum auctis
Tenementa sequentia coempta
et in usum ecclesiae prædictae
In perpetuum stabilita sunt
(fol. 110) IIIº Nonas Decembris 1723
viz. Tre Evan, Clidog, Hen Aclwyd &c. &c.
Reditusque annuus 40 solidorum
De Tre Anghared in Bodedern
Com. Anglesea.In tantae munificentiae memoriam
Tabula haec votiva suspensa est. anno 1727.
On the opposite side of the communion table on a similar tablet is engraved the pedigree of this branch of the Wynne’s which is as follows:
In hac Ecclesia jacent
1. Rees (ap Llewellwyn, ap Griffith, ap Howell, ap Evan, ap Ednyfed ap Howell, ap Griffith, ap Meyricke, ap Trahairn, ap Gwerydd ap Rees Goch) uxorem habuit Agnes vch Nicholas ap Ellis Archidiaconi Monensis filiam obiit anno Dni 1500.
(fol. 110a)
2. David ap Rees de Bodewryd Armiger obiit 27º Julii anno Dni 1551 uxorem habuit Anghared filiam et heredem de Plâs y Brian in parochia de Llanbeder.
3. Hugo Gwyn ap D.D. obiit 1562 uxorem habuit Elenam Conway de Bryn Eyrinin Com. Carnaru.
4. Edwardus ap H Gwyn sepultus fuit primo die Martii 1596 uxorem duxit Elizabetham Sion ap Rees Bodychen.
5. Johannes Wyn Edd obiit 1614 uxorem habuit Grace vch Sion Griffith de Llanddyfran.
6. Edwardus Wyn obiit 1637 uxorem habuit Margaretam Puleston de Llwyn y Knottie in com. Flint.
7. Johannes Wyn obiit Jan. 30, 1669 uxorem duxit, Elenam filiam et cohaeredem J. Lewis de Chwaen Wen arm sepultus est cum uxore filioque natu maximo Johanne L L B in ecclesiae parochiali de Llantrissant de quo siquis (fol. 111) ultra desideret monumentum patri suo B—M positum impensis Roberto Wyn A.M. ejusdem ecclesiae Rectoris dignissimi consulat.
Having finished our observations and preparing to leave the church we were not a little surprized by a request made by the schoolmaster for something to drink our healths, though I complied with his request I at the same time conveyed a kind of hint that an instructor should not be mercinary. However he pocketed the reproof with the money and I cannot say I discerned anything of that hectic flush come across his cheek described by Sterne in his story of the poor Monk.
Continuing from hence and passing by the magic stone which had drawn us so much out of our way the preceeding night we called at the treasure dreamer’s cottage as he had promised to shew us an inscription which (fol. 111a) he knew to be worthy of notice as a clergyman of Llanerchymedd had been to copy it. He was from home but his wife catching up her half grown child in her arms walked before us at such a rate we could scarcely keep up with her to the field where it stood. We here found some characters and just as I was preparing to take the impression of them with putty so violent and cold a storm of sleet and rain came on that we were forced to take shelter at a neighbouring farm. The farm house though of considerable extent was open all the way up to the roof the beds, kitchen, dairy, &c. being all contiguous to each other. This we found on enquiry was the common custom of the country. The weather holding up a little we returned to the spot, in the interval having learnt that the stone had some time since been broken in two in order to make a gate post of the lower part, we procured an (fol. 113) iron crow and with the assistance of two stout lads from the farm turned it over, it measures about four feet in length but retains no appearance of characters on its surface though by measuring its width we clearly discovered that it must formerly have been united to the upper part which is now fixed in the ground about an hundred yards distant. On returning thither I took a very exact copy. The name of the stone is Maen Hîr Llanol with is interpreted the large stone with letters and when entire it must have been a conspicuous object from most parts of the island as it stands on very high ground.
The weather continuing cold and disagreeable we hastened our march to Llanerchymedd our intended station for the night. Although the distance to this place in a direct line is not above four miles and its situation clearly discerned from Maen Hîr Llanol yet on account of the bogs and (fol. 113a) overflowing of the river we were obliged to make a circuit of nearly twice that space round by Llanbabo. In our way passed a farm called Boddeiniol where we stopped to enquire for some druidical remains mentioned in Mr. Bingley’s list as still visible, but the farmer who is apparently near eighty years old said he had never had heard of anything of the kind since he had lived there. But some time back in cleaning a piece of rough ground in one of his fields he discovered four burying places as he took them to be the sides formed of flat stones set upright in the ground and covered by others of the same irregular shape. Some of the stones he shewed us lying against a fence but none of them appeared to be above two feet and a half high. Crossed the river Trepont [71] a little below Llanbabo. This river is styled the largest in Anglesea although I am sure one might easily leap over the widest part the channel (fol. 114) when not flooded being not above twelve or fourteen feet across. Arrived at Llanerchymedd a little before four, enquiring of the innkeeper for an ancient stone with an inscription near the town he accompanied us to the house of a clergyman who he said was very curious in these particulars and would furnish us with every information on the subject. Our reception was very pleasing but we had been misinformed in regard to the object of our enquiries there being no other antiques in the neighbourhood besides Maen Hîr Llanol and the stone at Llantrisant about four miles distant. In the evening Mr. Richards the above mentioned gentlemen called upon us at the inn and during our conversation gave some interesting particulars of druidical remains in Bodafon mountain which we purpose visiting in his company tomorrow. This gentleman had a very perfect coin of Diocletian of which I took an impression in sealing wax (fol. 114a) in order to make a fac simile of the coin in isinglass on my return—if we cannot procure originals we must be content with copies. Having noted down the occurrences of the day we retired to bed desiring to be called very early in order to get breakfast over by seven the time we had agreed to set out.
Saturday, Decr. 11
A little before seven called at Mr. Richards’s house whom we found waiting at the door ready to accompany us. He mounted his horse and we pursued the Beaumaris turnpike for half [72a] a mile when we turned to the left to look at a stone called Lleidr [72b] y Frydog or the thief stone. This is a rough stone about six feet high having a kind of hump or projection near the top. The country people report that a thief who had stolen some books from a neighbouring church was in this place turned into stone with the sack containing his theft laying over his shoulder. About a quarter of a mile further Mr. Richards pointed to the spot where formerly stood the nunnery of Clorach or St. Claire and not far from it by the road side we saw two wells whose waters were enclosed in a square reservoir of stone work. Tradition says that the two saints Seriol and Cybi (the former having a cell at Priestholme the latter at Holyhead where he founded a collegiate church) used to hold their weekly meetings at these springs to consult on religious matters, and from the circumstance of Seriol’s travelling westward in the morning and eastward in the evening, and Cybi on the contrary always facing the sun they were denominated
Seriol wyn a Chyby felyn.
Seriol the fair and Cybi the tawney.
When arrived at Bodafon hills a ridge of rocky ground (fol. 117a) extending nearly two miles east and west Mr. Richards gave his horse to our attendant and accompanied us to a cromlech lying at the side of the hill denominated cromlech Lldercoch [73] nearly square the upper stone being about eleven feet across supported by four or five small uprights not above a foot and a half from the surface. This is by no means so perfect as some we have before noticed. Had not Mr. Richards been positive of the fact I should have doubted whether it had been designed for one. Arrived nearly at the summit of the hill we entered a cottage inhabited by a countryman whose grandfather and great grandfather resided there before him. Under the direction of this person we climbed to the top of the hill to look at a Carnedd. Most of the loose stones have been removed but some of the flat ones which composed the cistfaen are still on the spot, another more perfect lies about an hundred (fol. 118) yards to the eastward of this, a third further beyond which we did not visit. In the course of our walk the countryman pointed to a spot where he said his grand-mother whilst tending the cattle found a large triangular [74] piece of gold as he called it, standing on three supporters weighing nearly forty pounds. The antique overgrown with heath but one of the beasts happening to tread upon it occasioned the discovery. This she sold for three shillings at Llanerchymedd.
I should rather conceive that the metal was brass but whatever it was it would have been of more considerable value in the eyes of the antiquarian. Not far from this place he pointed to a number of loose stones called by a Welsh word answering to gold tongues [75a] as many pieces of gold of that shape he said were formerly picked up here. From the formation here specified I think one may not hesitate a moment in pronouncing they were brass celts or British weapons and as a farther (fol. 118a) confirmation of this opinion not a great way distant facing the south we traced the remains of a large British [75b] town. Here about forty or fifty foundations such as we have before noticed at Tre Evan may be clearly discerned some lying in a cluster together others standing separate, others again having a square form the name given to these remains scattered over the island we were informed by our intelligent companion by Cyteau [76a] Gwydellhod not Irishmens huts as some have translated it but the houses of the wild inhabitants. A spring rising near the spot still has a term of the same signification being stiled the well of the wild inhabitants. Some vestiges of similar [76b] buildings are to be traced to the north side of the hill, as also on the rising ground facing that part of Bodafon we have just noticed. It is natural to suppose that when the island was covered with wood, the inhabitants would fix their residence on elevated stations as a security (fol. 120) against their enemies and beasts of prey we may suppose the lower parts of these huts were alone built of stone and that branches of trees and earth formed the covering like those at present used amongst the lowest orders of Irish peasantry and why may not this people have retained the mode observed by the ancient Britons from whence they derive their origin. The highest point of Bodafon hills lies to the east commanding almost the whole circuit of the island. Here a beacon used to be lighted in case of invasion or to convey signals to the opposite coast of Carnarvonshire although probably it is many years since anything of the kind was used, yet the stones and the earth bear evident marks of the fire. It blew so hard to-day that it was with difficulty we kept on our legs on the high ground but on descending we were sheltered from the wind and had a pleasant walk to Penhros Llûgwy church an ancient building about half a mile to the south east of Bodafon hills. On a (fol. 120a) rough flat stone in the church yard I traced the following inscription, hic jacet Macuceceti. [77a] Mr. Rowlands, upon what authority I know not, supposes this to have been an inscription on Mechell or Macutius bishop of St. Maloes in Little Britain, who he says was buried here. We also observed two or three flat grave [77b] stones of a rough gritty substance about six feet long whereon was cut the figure of a cross in the same manner as those I noticed last year at Furness abbey. But what seemed most curious at first sight was an inscription marked on a flat stone [78] lying on the ground whose characters I recognised to be similar to what I had observed on the font at Bridekirk in Cumberland mixed with Saxon letters of a much later date. On observing Mr. Richards smile after I had finished my copy I requested he would candidly tell me what the inscription meant and in what character (fol. 122) it was written for I could make nothing out of it when he was kind enough to relieve me from my perplexity by explaining that it had been executed within these sixty years by a shepherds boy at the desire of a gentleman who employed various alphabets to compose it. The words are Welsh to this effect Yma hefyd mae Gorwedd Katherine Jones Ebrill 11 1744. ag. 70. Here also lies without Catherine Jones April 11 1744 aged 70. This I suppose was intended as a stumbling block for antiquarians the idea being probably suggested by Mr. Rowland’s Macutius in the neighbourhood. Like Doctor Johnson at the Hebrides I here had to regret the loss of my walking stick for although I dispatched our attendant and clerk in quest of it before we had proceeded an hundred yards from the place where I had copied the inscription, it was vanished. I shrewdly suspect that the clerk had taken a fancy to it as there was no other person in the church yard excepting our own party. However as he supplied me with something as a substitute it (fol. 122a) did not longer delay our march which brought us in the course of half an hour to Llûgwy house an ancient mansion now rented by a farmer under Lord Boston who goodnaturedly invited us within doors and refreshed us with a good luncheon of bread and cheese and some excellent ale. We then walked a short distance from the house to a rising ground overgrown with timber trees and coppice wood but still there was sufficient opening to enable us to trace a number of the Cytiau Gwyddellhod of a more perfect form and larger dimensions than any we had yet seen. They appear to be surrounded by a breast work of massive stones stuck edgeways in the ground evidently intended as a fortification which was probably strengthened by a mound and sharp stakes. The habitations here are very contiguous the entrances easily traced as also a communication [79] from one to the other. This is a strong confirmation of the historical account of the Aborigines who are said in the different tribes to have had every (fol. 126) thing in common.
We purpose before we leave Wales visiting a very extensive fortress on the top of Penmaenmawr which Mr. Richards says resembles very much the one before us. Not far distant facing the ocean is a cromlech the upper stone six yards long, five yards and a half wide and three yards [80a] thick. One end rests upon a bank [80b] of earth and the other is supported by four or five small upright stones, leaving a hollow beneath about two feet high.
Near this we noticed the remains of Llûgwy chapel now entirely dilapidated. Walked hence to Llanalgo church said to have been built in the year six hundred and five. On the north wall near the altar is a mutilated monument [80c] of a knight in armour kneeling before an altar said to be that of Sir John Bodville a gentleman whose residence was in this parish. On digging a few years ago the foundation of the new parsonage the workmen discovered a square vault formed of a solid composition resembling thick (fol. 126a) tile supposed to be an ancient burying place. Mr. Richards who was curate of this place for some years says he has in his possession English coins of Edward [81] and Mary found in digging in the church yard. Leaving the church we adjourned to a farm house close by where the party was again supplied with bread cheese and ale. Although I did not much admire this delay we were obliged to comply with Mr. Richards’s request. Continued here nearly an hour during which time a poor blind boy attempted to amuse us by playing on the harp but having received but few instructions was but an indifferent performer, our attendant then took the instrument and played some of the Welsh airs with tolerable execution. The poor boy in the meantime exhibited such strong marks of surprize mixed with mortification as would have supplied an admirable subject for the pen of Hogarth.
After having given something to him we were not a little glad to take our leave it being (fol. 127) past two, and there was a doubt whether we could procure accommodation for the night nearer than Beaumaris at least twelve miles distant. Passed a stone about seven feet high nine long and three thick this is placed edgeways on a flat rock, another about the same shape and dimensions lies on the ground near at hand. A third formerly placed across has been destroyed within the memory of some of the inhabitants. These stones are called Cromlech but I should rather imagine like those we noticed at Llanfechell that it had constituted the chamber of a large Carnedd. Proceeding hence we walked over a natural layer of lime stones extending for some acres along the surface of the ground this is called Marian Glâs a term expressive of flat grey stones. We here met with a countryman who joined our party and in our progress pointed out some more of the Cytiau Gwyddellhod on (fol. 127a) a rising ground called Bryn [82] ddiol, and from hence we saw a hill about two miles to the westward named Rhos Fawr where he said were some other remains and cromlechs but this lay so much out of our direction we could not visit them. At Marian Mawr Mr. Richards quitted us. We were indeed much indebted to him for his polite attention in accompanying us thus far for I am convinced that without his assistance we should have passed many of these curious remains the common people in general being ignorant of everything of the kind. This gentleman seems to have paid a good deal of attention to antiquities and has promised to favour me with a letter on the subject on my return home. But I could not help remarking in the course of conversation that superstition does not seem confined to the ignorant and illiterate for he told me very gravely (fol. 129) that there were companies of fairies still existing in Wales and particularly in Anglesea and that he had frequently driven them from their haunts. He also spoke of the knockers supposed to be little invisible beings favourable to the miners who by making a variety of sounds underground lead them to those places where there is the greatest quantity of ore. I could only be silent when I heard these opinions advanced but he has directed me to a book lately published by Mr. Edmund Jones of Pontypool on the subject. At Marian Mawr are six large stones of the same kind as the substrata rising above seven feet. They have obtained the name of cromlech but I rather imagine them to be natural productions.
Under the guidance of the countryman we proceeded to Red Wharf. Passed more of the Cytiau Gwyddelhod at a place called Trescifion. Near here is an ancient mansion house called Glynn now belonging to Mr. Meyricke (fol. 129a) the name of Glynn a title common in many parts of Wales I find implies a situation lying in a narrow valley overgrown with trees. Not far beyond was a house in which Mr. Hughes resided before his vast acquisition in the Parys mountain. Arrived at Red Wharf a little before dark and the house promised but very bad accommodations we were obliged to put up with them. Our eating was of the least importance but on retiring to my sleeping apartment although the woman had provided clean linen the toute ensemble was so dirty I passed the night without taking off my cloaths.