EDLESTON HARNESS.
A method of weaving an 800 figure on a 400 double-lift machine has been patented by James Edleston, of Preston. This is a very useful and ingenious idea, as a floated figure can be formed, and the machine remains a double-lift, with all its advantages as regards speed. Certain limits are placed upon the weaves, which can be employed for the ground or for developing the figure, but sufficient scope is afforded for all practical purposes to make the invention a success. An illustration is given of this harness at [Fig. 129]. The inventor gives no drawing in his specification, but presumably the illustration ([Fig. 129]) will represent his method; at least, it will effect the same object. One row of hooks of a 400s double-lift single-cylinder machine are shown, and it will be noticed that the hooks are not joined together by a neck cord as in the ordinary machine, but the harness threads are taken singly from each hook as in a single-lift machine. The knives work as in a double-lift, one up, one down. By cutting the cards in a certain manner the whole of the 800 hooks may be operated by the 400 needles so as to produce ordinary brocade or damask figures with a repeat of 800 ends. The same end cannot be lifted for two picks in succession, as the knives have to move up and down and work oppositely; but an end can be left down any odd number of picks, and a figure can thus be formed. At [Fig. 130] the design for eight-end satin ground is given. It must be remembered that for eight ends there are only four needles, and therefore the lifting dots must be put on four ends on the point paper. By carefully comparing this design with the mounting of the harness, the principle will be quite clear. The design shows a dot on the first and fifth ends on the first pick, and therefore a hole will be cut in the card opposite the first and fifth needles.
FIG. 129.
Suppose the griffe A to be lifted for the first pick, it will lift the first and ninth ends. The second card has holes opposite the second and sixth needles, and when the griffe B is lifted for the second pick, it will lift the fourth and twelfth ends in the warp or lingoes in the comber-board. The third card has holes opposite the fourth and eighth needles, and as on the odd picks the griffe A lifts, it will lift the seventh and fifteenth ends in the warp. If this is followed out it will be found that the ends are lifted in the order 1 4, 7 2, 5 8, 3 6, or eight end satin is woven. [Fig. 131] shows the method of putting the dots on point paper for four end twill (one and three). The principle is the same as in the preceding case, and is very simple when understood. A hole opposite the first needle on the first pick causes the first end to be lifted, and a hole opposite the same needle for the second pick causes the second end to be lifted. Any figure can be put upon the cloth, with the following limits as regards the bindings: firstly, an end cannot be lifted for two successive picks; secondly, every end must be left down an odd number of picks.
FIG. 130.
FIG. 131.
From this it will be seen that a five end satin cannot be woven, nor can a weft figure be put on a warp ground. Plain grounds can be woven, and cord grounds of various kinds are also suitable for the harness.