Cotton Weaving and Designing / 6th Edition

by John T. Taylor

INDEX

• ANTISEPTICS, [32]
• Automatic looms, [198]
• BACKED cloths, with weft, [255];
• with warp, [257]
• Barley-corn patterns, [235]
• Beaming, press, [47]
• —— tension, [47]
• Beating up the weft, [72], [85]
• ——, character of motion in, [72], [73]
• ——, distance moved by slay whilst the crank moves through given
• angle in, [74]
• ——, eccentricity of slay’s movement in, [72];
• cause of, [74]
• ——, effect of altering position of crank-shaft in, [83];
• of reversing direction of crank in, [84]
• ——, force of slay in, [78], [82]
• ——, position of crank in, [72]
• Becks, size mixing, [30]
• Brake, [95]
• CALCULATION for two or more fold yarns, [308]
• —— of contraction for different weaves and counts, [326]
• —— of cost of a piece, [325]
• —— of counts of yarn from weighing given length, [329]
• Calculation of diameter of yarn, [336]
• Calculation of number of threads of given counts required to make a
• firm cloth in any weave, [341]
• —— of quantity of warp and weft in a piece, [311–313]
• —— of reeds and setts, [310]
• —— of weaving wage, [324]
• —— of weight of a given length of any counts, [330]
• —— to make a cloth of equal firmness to given cloth when changing
• weave, [338]
• —— to preserve firmness and alter weight, [343]
• —— to preserve firmness when changing threads per inch, [341]
• —— to preserve same firmness when changing counts, [341]
• Card-cutting machine, [190]
• —— repeater, [191]
• Casting out, [285]
• Checks produced by re-arranging twills, [241]
• Circular-box motion, [115]
• Clearer guide, [8]
• Clipped or sheared cloths, [254]
• Coiling motions. _See_ Taking-up
• Combined twills, [226]
• Cop winding machine, [6]
• Cording plan for hand loom, [50]
• Cords, [245]
• Corkscrew twills, [257]
• Counts of cotton yarns, [307]
• Counts of two or more unequal threads twisted together, [308];
• and weight of each required in given weight of resulting
• thread, [309]
• Cover on cloth, [86], [87]
• Crapes, [248]
• Crimp cloth, [249]
• DAMASK or twilling Jacquards, [168–172]
• Design, transferring from sketch to point paper, [281]
• Detached figures, spots, arrangement of, [278–281]
• Development of pattern, [282–285]
• Diagonals, fancy, produced by combining unequal twills, [240]
• —— figured, [289]
• Diameters of cotton yarns, [335]
• Diapers, [233]
• Dice checks, [234]
• Direction of twist in yarns, effect of, [304]
• Dobbies, timing of movements in, [129]
• —— undermotions for, [130], [131]
• Dobby, the Blackburn, [127];
• knife motion for, [127];
• character of shed in, [129]
• ——, the Keighley double-lift, [123];
• method of pegging for, [126];
• double jacks in, [126];
• character of shed in, [125];
• made positive, [129]
• Double cloths, [259]
• —— bound by passing back pick over face end, [261]
• —— bound by passing back end over face pick, [262]
• —— plain clothes, figuring, [263];
• bound together, [266]
• —— shed Jacquard, [157]
• —— twill cloth figuring, [300]
• —— warp face, [257]
• Double weft face, [255]
• Double-beat slay, [135]
• Doup heald, [173]
• Draft, arranging on point paper, [227]
• —— the V, [230]; patterns produced by, [230–233]
• Drawing-in, [3]
• Drills, [224]
• Drop-box motion, Diggle’s, [107]
• —— in pick-and-pick loom, [116];
• connected to Jacquard, [120]
• —— Whitesmith’s, [112]
• —— Wright Shaw’s, [109]
• Drum winding machine, [13], [14]
• EDLESTON harness, [166]
• —— —— designing for, [294]
• Extra warp, figuring with, [250];
• reeding of, [252]
• —— —— and extra weft combined, [255]
• —— weft, figuring with, [252]
• —— figure on mock leno ground, [254]
• FANCY effects produced by warp and weft pulling each other out of
• straight line, [249]
• Fast reeds, [91]
• Figured design, [278]
• —— leno designing, [295]
• Firmness of cloth, [333]
• GAUZE, plan of, [173]
• “Gloy,” [33]
• Grey warps, preparation of, [2]
• HAND-LOOM, [48]
• Hattersley weft-replenishing device, [214]
• Heck of warping mill, [22]
• Honeycomb designs, [242]
• Huck patterns, [250]
• JACQUARD card cutting, [142], [190]
• —— damask or twilling, [168–172]
• —— damask, Tschorner and Wein, [172]
• —— double-shed, [157]
• —— for cross-border, [155]
• —— for leno weaving, [181]
• —— harness, bordered pattern, Norwich tie, [151];
• London tie, [153]
• —— centre pattern or point tie, [154]
• —— Edleston’s, [166];
• designing for,[167], [294]
• —— for all-over pattern, [139]
• —— London tie, [150]
• —— Norwich tie, [144], [150]
• —— machine, origin of, [137]
• —— sizes of, [150]
• —— difference in character of shed between single and
• double-lift, [137], [144–148]
• —— double-lift, single-cylinder, [144];
• principle of, [145]
• —— double-lift, double-cylinder, [146];
• advantages of, [144]
• —— single-lift, [138]
• —— open-shed, [158]
• —— pressure harness, [161–166]
• —— split harness, [160]
• Jeans, jeanettes, [220]
• KEIGHLEY dobby, [123]
• Kenyon’s undermotion for dobbies, [131]
• LACE and leno stripes, [269]
• Lags, pegging of, [126]
• Lappet loom, [193]
• —— wheel, construction of, [195]
• Lappets, [192]
• Leno checks, [268]
• —— crossovers, [175]
• Leno effects, [266]
• —— full cross, [181]
• —— Jacquards, designing for, [185]
• —— double-lift, [186]
• ——, imitation of, [186]
• —— net or lace, [176]
• —— selvedge, [132]
• —— weaving in dobbies, [174–180];
• use of slackener in, [174];
• arrangement of staves and pegging plan, [175–178];
• shaking motion for double-lift dobbies, [178];
• arrangement of slackeners for two doups, [180]
• Letting-off, [106]
• Linen yarns, counts of, [307]
• List of prices for weaving, New Uniform, [314–322];
• Chorley, [322]
• Loose reeds, [92]
• MARKING mechanism in slashing frame, [35]
• Marseilles quilts, [298]
• Mildew, [32]
• Mitcheline, [299]
• Mock lenos, [243]
• Mono-coloured warps, preparation of, [3]
• Multi-coloured warps, preparation of, [5]
• NET lenos, [267]
• Northrop weft-replenishing device, [210]
• OSCILLATING tappets, [61]
• PADDED cloths, [258]
• Patterns produced by combining alternate picks of twills, [240]
• —— by combining equal twills, [226];
• unequal twills, [240]
• —— by drafting, [227]
• Patterns by fancy drafts, [238]
• —— by re-arrangement of simple twills, [236];
• and of combined twills, [237]
• Pegging plan making, [228]
• Pick-and-pick loom, [116]
• Pick, force of, [69]
• Picking, over pick, [68], [69]
• —— under pick, [71]
• Pile fabrics, warp, [189]
• —— weft, [270–277]
• Piqués, [258]
• Pirn winding machine, [15]
• —— —— —— disc, [17]
• Plain cloth, [218]
• —— draft for weaving, [219]
• —— number of threads possible in, [218]
• —— ornamentation of, [218]
• Plushes, [189], [275]
• Point draft, [230]
• Point paper, selection of, for different proportions of warp and
• weft, [290]
• —— use of, [219]
• Power-loom, tappet shedding motions in, [51–68]
• Preparatory processes, [1]
• Presser roller, expanding, [27]
• Pressure harness, designing for, [292]
• —— harnesses, [161–166]
• Primary movements in weaving, [48]
• —— timing of, [85–87]
• Protector, loose reed, [91]
• —— stop rod, [92]
• REEDS and setts, [310]
• Ribs and cords, [245]
• Roller top motion for plain cloth, [62];
• 3 staves, [64];
• 4 staves, [64];
• 5 staves, [65];
• 7 staves, [66]
• SACK weaving, [259]
• Satin draft, [229]
• —— weaves, [222]
• Satin, principle of construction of, [224]
• Scotch dressing, [42]
• Section blocks, expanding, [27]
• —— tappets, Woodcroft’s, [59], [60]
• Sectional warping, [23]
• Selvedge motion in sateen loom, [134], [135]
• Set figures, arrangement of, [278–281]
• Shading, [283]
• Shedding motions, power-loom, [51–68]
• Silk yarns, thrown or net, numbering of, [307]
• Sines and cosines, table of, [81]
• Singleton’s stop-motion, [19]
• Size mixing, [28]
• —— —— for light sizing, [30]
• —— —— for fine counts, [31]
• —— —— for medium sizing, [31]
• —— —— for heavy sizing, [32]
• Sizes of patterns woven in Jacquards, [285]
• Sizing, [28]
• —— ball, [43]
• —— materials, [28]
• ——, slashing frame, [33];
• slow motion in, [37]
• —— frame, slasher, marking motion in, [35], [36]
• —— —— frictional winding motion in, [39]
• —— machines, hot air drying in, [38]
• —— ——, automatic supply of size to, [40]
• Slubbings, [8]
• Solid coloured borders in dhooties, [303]
• Split harness, designing for, [292]
• Splits, motion for, [132]
• —— Shorrock and Taylor’s motion for, [133]
• Spreading the warp, [85]
• Spun silk yarns, counts of, [307]
• Stitching-thread used to bind extra warp and extra weft, [252], [253]
• Stocks and bowls, [67]
• Stop motion, weft fork, [93]
• —— ——, in beam-warper, [19]
• —— rod, [92]
• Striped designs, [288];
• calculation of reed for, [288]
• TABBY weave, [218]
• Taking-up motion, negative, [101];
• screw and worm wheel, [103]
• —— positive, [95];
• Pickles’, [99];
• new system, [104]
• Tappets, calculation for lift of, [52]
• ——, construction of, [53]
• ——, effect of treadle-bowl on, [57]
• —— for plain cloth, [50], [51], [53]
• —— for twills, [56], [58]
• —— oscillating, [61]
• —— positive, [59]
• ——, speed of, [87–91]
• —— Woodcroft’s, [59]
• Terry cloth, [187]
• —— loom, [187]
• Testing yarns, [329]
• Three-ply, four-ply cloths, [263]
• Toiletings, [297]
• Traverse motions, heart cam, [9], [10];
• mangle wheel, [11] cloths, [258]
• Trial section, [25]
• Twaddell’s hydrometer, [30]
• Twills, [219]
• —— combined, [226]
• Twisting-in, [3]
• Twofold yarns, cotton, worsted, silk, [308]
• UNDERMOTIONS, [130], [131]
• Undermotion, Kenyon’s, [131]
• V-CREEL, [18], [23]
• V-reed, [24]
• Velvet, common, [270]
• —— cords, [276]
• —— E1, [273]
• —— fast pile, [273]
• ——, figured, [301]
• —— twill back, [274]
• Velvets, velveteens, [270], [277];
• definition of, [272]
• WARP line, [85]
• Warping, beam, [18]
• Warping mill, [21]
• ——, sectional, [23]
• Weaving wage calculations, [324]
• Weft, preparation of, [6]
• ——, wet, [6]
• —— fork, [93]
• —— pile fabrics, [270]
• Weft-replenishing devices, automatic, [198–217]
• —— ——, patents for, [209]
• —— ——, Northrop, [210]
• —— ——, Hattersley, [214]
• Winding coloured yarn, [14]
• —— drum, [14]
• —— from cops to warpers’ bobbins, [6]
• —— from ring spools to warpers’ bobbins, [6]
• —— from throstle to warpers’ bobbins, [6]
• Woodcroft’s section tappets, [59], [60]
• Worsted yarns, [307]
• Wrapping yarn, [330]
• YARN balance, Staub’s, [331]
• —— twist of, [305]
• Yorkshire dressing, [5], [47]

THE END

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WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED
LONDON AND BECCLES