AWNINGS · AND · VERANDA · CURTAINS

Awnings are naturally divided into two classes—house awnings and store awnings. Of the first, Figures [139, 140 and 141] illustrate the kinds of windows most frequently met with. Figure [139] is an ordinary square top window, of which Figure [142A] is a side view in skeleton, showing the method of attaching the frame to the window, and also the relative size of the awning to the window.

To measure this window for an awning, measure the width of frame from centre to centre (A—A), and half the distance from the top of the frame to the sill, with three inches added (A—B). These measures are simple, but should be carefully taken to ensure a good fit. Take note also of any projections of stone or brick which would prevent the awning fitting closely to the frame all around, and be sure to allow for these when making the awning.

Figure [141] is measured in like manner, and a record also made of the depth from the top of the centre to the top of the straight side of the frame (C—B). The round top (Figure [140]) is measured for width and height as the foregoing, but the height of the circular sweep must also be taken. Stretch a tape or cord across at B—B, the spring of the arch, and then measure the distance from this to the top of the frame (B—C). If the windows are so constructed or are in such a position that a projection of three inches more than half the height would not be permissible, a measurement must be taken for projection also; but if there is nothing to interfere with this amount of projection the height measurement will be sufficient to determine the amount of projection.

When ready to cut the goods, mark out on your awning table (which should have a top measurement of at least 5.0 x 8.0, and larger if possible) the measurements as follows: On one end of your table (Figure [143]) draw a line across it parallel with the end and eleven inches from it. Now, attaching a tape at A, one end of your line, measure across to B, the projection of your awning (A—B, Figure [139]), which is half the height of the window and three inches extra. Place a tack at B, the point thus determined, and then measure up the table the height of the awning (in this case the same as the projection). Place a tack at this measurement (D) also, and chalk a line across the table; fasten the tape at tack D, draw it across to tack B and down to C, the end of the table, as indicated by the heavy line; add a couple of inches for hems, and this measurement represents the length of the top of the awning.

Plate 155 is a ready-reckoner for quantities required for the sizes therein contained when the projection and height are the same. To find the height required for the top of a given size, take, for instance, 3.0 projection by 3.0 high (3.O x 3.0), the top measurement is 4.3; add 1.0 for curtain and the total 5.3 is reached.

To determine the number of widths required to make the width of the awning, refer to the width table, which gives the finished measurement of different numbers of widths when joined together. Cut a sufficient number of lengths the size needed as measured from D to C and join them up to aggregate the width of the top of the awning. To cut the ends draw another chalk line eleven inches beyond point D on your table and mark the projection on it (F, Figure [143]) and rule from F to C, the end of the table, cutting through B; snap a chalk line from B to D (as heavy line, Figure [143]). Take a flexible slat, and placing it against the tacks at D and B, bend it an inch beyond the chalk line at G; mark the curve thus described as dotted line and repeat on the other side of the line. Cut out along the two curved lines and across at F, which will give you two complete ends, and if the goods are reversible (i. e., the same on both surfaces), by turning one end over these two form a pair.

Should the goods not be reversible, and there are two awnings to make which are the same size, mark one set (as Figure [143]), and the next set biased from A to H, and this will give you two pairs of ends. Or, if only one awning is to be made, and the goods are not reversible, each end is planned out separately by ruling the pattern (as Figure [143]) and piecing the goods out to fill the space outlined by D—B—C and I.

To assemble the pieces the ends are joined to the top, as indicated by figure 144, the edge of the top forming a binding over the biased edge of the end (see Figure [144A], a cross section of the seam). Scallop the bottom edge as indicated by dotted lines, so that each stripe centres in the scallop (as Figure [144]) and sew a two-inch strip or band of the duck on the inside of the awning to receive the iron, as indicated by dotted lines, Figures [144] and [145]. Figure [145] also indicates where patches of the same material, about four inches square, are sewn to the top (inside) to reinforce the rings through which the ropes pass, and the method of attaching the rope to the iron, small openings being left in the band for this purpose.

Awning rings are sewn along the top edge at intervals of six inches, and also one at each end of the band, as X, Figures [144] and [145]. Mount the awning by sliding the iron through the pocket between the band and the awning proper; thread the ropes through the rings so as to lead to the right side of the awning from inside the room, as Figure [145], and as Figures [142A and B], which show an awning iron in position, but uncovered to show the roping.

Fig 139 Fig 140 Fig 141

Fig 142 Fig 142A Fig 142B

Fig 143

Fig 144 Fig 144A

Fig 145

Fig 146 Fig 146A

Fig 147

Fig 148 Fig 148A

Fig 149 Fig 149A

Fig 149B

Fig 150

Fig 150A Fig 150B

Fig 150C

To put up the awning, fasten the cleat B (Figure [142A]) in position, then, by measuring the positions of the ropes on the front of the iron, determine where pulleys or screw-eyes will have to be placed to be in line with the ropes; put these in and pass the ropes through them, pull up the awning and fasten the ropes to the cleat. The weight of the awning is now held in position, and it is a simple matter to put in the hooks at the top, one for each ring. Lower the awning until it hangs in position (as Figure [142]), the iron supported by the cover. Adjust the feet at A (Figure [142A]), so that the iron hangs square and true, and fasten them in place. Test the ropes to see that the awning raises properly and easily, and the job is complete.

For round elliptic or shaped tops, as Figures [140 and 141], we prefer to cut the awning from the iron itself. Fasten the iron to the floor (as Figure [146]) and then let it lie flat, as dotted line, while you mark out its shape and dimensions on the floor. Raise it again to the perpendicular and fasten it with a cord, as indicated, so that it will stay in an upright position. Measure the distance from A on the dotted line to B on the iron; allow a couple of inches at each end for hems, and cut a length this size.

Try this on the iron and dotted line, and measure the length for the next piece to join to this one. Repeat this until enough are joined to reach around the iron, and commencing in the centre of the iron and dotted line pin and tack the goods smoothly to the shape thus outlined, working all the fullness out to the corners (as Figure [146A]). Mark the line described by your tacks, which have followed the dotted line on your floor, and mark the goods on the edge of the iron all around; allow for seams beyond these marks and cut the surplus away. Turn a half-inch hem around the edge marked on the floor and sew rings to it for the top edge. Cut and scallop a piece long enough to go around the length of the iron and sew this to the edge of the cover where marked on the iron. Lay the scallop and cover face to face and take an ordinary seam, so that when the seam is opened out the raw edges will be on the under side; sew a two-inch band beneath this seam for the iron and patch and rope it as before.

This is the simplest and most certain plan of getting any shape other than square to fit the iron properly.

The foregoing methods apply to all iron-frame awnings where the height equals the projection. It is sometimes required, however, that the projection. be greater than the height, that the necessary shade be obtained and not have the frame so low that it would interfere with ordinary traffic beneath it.

To overcome this difference slides may be used, like Figure [147], which permit the iron to drop to their lower ends, as X—X, dotted bar, when drawing up the awning, and the irons are pushed up and pinned, as illustrated, when the awning is fully extended. Awning covers for irons with slides have a band on the front edge only, as side-bands would prevent the iron from descending the slides. The bottom corner of the awning is held in place by a ring and hook at the top of the slide.

Fig 151 Fig 152 Fig 153

VIEW INSIDE OF VERANDA

WidthProjectionFeet of
Iron		Yds of
Duck		ProjectionFeet of
Iron		Yds of
Duck
2-02-673⅜3-085⅛
3-695⅔4-0106¼
4-6117⅛5-0128
2-62-67½3⅜3-08½5⅛
3-69½5⅔4-010½6¼
4-611½7⅛5-012½8
3-02-684½3-095¼
3-61064-0116⅔
4-6127½5-01310
3-62-68½4½3-09½5¼
3-610½6¼4-011½6⅔
4-612½9¼5-013½10
4-02-694½3-0105½
3-6116¼4-0128
4-6139¾5-01410½
4-62-69½4⅔3-010½5⅔
3-611½7⅔4-012½8
4-613½9¾5-014½10½
5-02-6104⅞3-0116⅞
3-6127⅔4-0138⅔
4-6149¾5-01510½

Figure [148] illustrates another method of obtaining a greater projection than the height by using an extended bracket, the iron throwing up as dotted bar X—X; while dotted bar, Figure [148A], would give greater projection, still on the same bracket, by increasing the length of the bar and lowering the bracket till the straight part of the bar is on a level with the front of the awning.

For awnings wider than 6.0, with a projection of 4.0 or over, the iron is usually made in three sections (as Figure [149]), and if more than 9.0 wide a centre support is put in like Figure [149A]. Small store awnings may be made as above, but for large sizes roller awnings (as Figure [150]) will be found much more substantial and easy of manipulation.

The roller is either made of iron tubing wrapped with canvas and the duck sewn to it, or it can be built up of wood (as Figure [150C]), the laps or joints wound with band iron and the whole securely nailed together.

Plate 155

Put an iron hoop on each end to keep the pin from spreading it, and provide one end with a spool (as X, Figure [150B]). The rope is attached to and wound upon the spool and the roller put in the brackets. If the roller is long enough to require a centre support, Figure [149B] provides an excellent bracket. The side arms are placed in position as indicated in Figure [150], so that they will throw up straight with the edge of the bar in line with the roller (Figure [150B]). The bar is made of clear straight pine 2 × 4 inches, and the duck is first tacked to the roller and then to the bar, as Figure [150].

The ends are made and attached, as illustrated by Figure [150A], and need not be further explained. The awning is manipulated by pulling the rope which unwinds, causing the roller to revolve and releasing the rope allows the weight of the awning to make the roller revolve the reverse way, winding up the rope.

Veranda awnings are constructed as are other awnings, and increase the comfort and shade of a veranda, the same rule of proportion as given above being used in the measuring and the feet of the iron attached to the posts of the veranda. In many cases veranda awnings are impracticable, and veranda curtains are used as a substitute. These are constructed to work horizontally (as Figure [151]), or mounted on rollers (as Figures [152 and 153]). Of the two styles those of Figures [152 and 153] are more preferable, because when not in use they may be drawn up completely, while the other is more or less exposed to the elements at all times.

The rollers may be a spring shade roller mounted in the ordinary way, or a roller with a spool and cord, identical in principle with the roller shown in Figure [150], and the bottom of the curtain is provided with snaps to hold it in place when down.

In Plate 154 we give a table of the ordinary sized awnings, giving the quantities of iron and duck required in their making. We have figured on thirty-one-inch reversible duck, cutting the ends as marked out in Figure [143].

The awning trade is essentially a Summer trade and the season necessarily short, and as customers usually postpone the purchase of these things until they are really needed, this work must be handled quickly to be successful. We have found it a good plan where possible to arrange for recovering and renewing this work for regular customers during the late Winter months, when the workroom is apt to be a little slack.