CHAPTER XX.
Camp on Zemu river — Scenery — Falling rocks — Tukcham mountain — Height of glaciers — Botany — Gigantic rhubarb — Insects — Storm — Temperature of rivers — Behaviour of Lachen Phipun — Hostile conduct of Bhoteeas — View from mountains above camp — Descend to Zemu Samdong — Vegetation — Letters from Dorjiling — Arrival of Singtam Soubah — Presents from Rajah — Parties collecting arum-roots — Insects — Ascend Lachen river — Thakya-zong — Tallum Samdong village — Cottages — Mountains — Plants — Entomology — Weather — Halo — Diseases — Conduct of Singtam Soubah — His character and illness — Agrees to take me to Kongra Lama — Tungu — Appearance of country — Houses — Poisoning by aram-roots — Yaks and calves — Tibet ponies — Journey to Kongra Lama — Tibetan tents — Butter, curds, and churns — Hospitality — Kinchinjhow and Chomiomo — Magnificent scenery — Reach Kongra Lama pass.