Tea, its history and mystery

by Joseph M. Walsh

CHINA TEAS.

Tea and China are almost synonymous terms. It is indisputably the “Land of tea.” Its cultivation forms the chief industry of that country, and has been the largest contributor to the revenue of the government for centuries, its export being the principal feature of all her foreign dealings. The welfare of the inhabitants of her fairest provinces depend on its production. It has been in universal use among them from time immemorial, forming not only the regular beverage of the people, but also administering to the luxury of the epicure. They drink it at all times and under all circumstances from early morning until late at night, in sickness or in health, working or playing, traveling or resting, all business being transacted there between two cups of tea. In brief, it is the natural beverage of the country constituting what wine is to the French, beer to the German and ale to the English, and but without which no Chinese family could live or thrive.

Considering all this, the claim under the circumstances that any other country is the “home of tea,” as is attempted at the present time by some English writers, is about as futile and absurd as the endeavor to substitute Americus for Columbus, or Bacon for Shakespeare. And not only is China the original home of tea, but in addition, China Tea is the only true tea, surpassing that of all other countries in every property and quality constituting and distinguishing tea, and possessing certain distinctive characteristics peculiar to and contained in no other variety grown or known. Yet while grown to a greater or less extent all over that vast empire, its cultivation for commercial purposes appears to be chiefly confined to the eastern provinces of Che-kiang, Kiang-see, Gan-hwuy and Fo-kien, some little also being produced for export in the western province of Sze-chuan.

China Green Teas

are produced principally in the provinces of Che-kiang, Gan-hwuy and Kiang-see, and are known to trade as Sunglos, Moyunes, Hychows, Fychows, Tienkes, Tayshings, Pingsueys, Cantons, and Country green teas, district terms and grading in the order named. These varieties being again subdivided into Gunpowders, Imperials, Hysons, Young Hysons, Hyson-Pekoes, and Hyson-Skin—appellations denoting age, size, style, or form of make.

Sunglo—Famous in China at one time as the district where Green teas were first produced, and which were for centuries the finest grown in that country. Latterly, however, it has greatly declined as a tea-producing district, the quality also degenerating at the same time, much of that now sold as “true Sunglo” being only so in name. They are what is known to trade as “Hill” or high-district tea, natural green in color, exceedingly well made and prepared, yielding a rich, straw-colored liquor, clear and sparkling in the cup, fragrant and aromatic in flavor. The infused leaf is small, symmetrical and uniform to a high degree, in fact almost perfect in shape, an invariable indication of youthfulness, fineness and tenderness.

Mo-Yuen—Known to trade as “Moyune,” now produces the bulk of the best Green teas received from China. Grown principally on the plains or lowlands adjacent to Sunglo from which fact they are sometimes termed “Garden teas” in contradistinction to the upland or “hill teas,” and to which they are inferior in make, liquor, and flavor. They are of three kinds—“Nankin,” “Pakeong,” and “Oochaine”—so named from the “piens” or localities in which they are raised.

Nankin Moyune—Is the most valuable, intrinsically and commercially, being superior to the others in make, color, draw and drink. The dried leaf is firmly rolled or curled according to “make,” rich, natural green in color, and extremely uniform in general appearance. The infusion of the finer grades is light golden in tint, brisk, and pungent in body, and possessing a flavor peculiar to itself, technically termed “toasty.” It is deceptive in drink owing to its light color in the cup, the body being full and heavy, the infused leaf is small, but regular and well-shaped and of a light-green hue.

Pakeong—Differs from Nankin in many respects, though grown in the same district. The dry leaf is larger and more open, being what is termed “loosely made,” duller in color and not as highly fired. The finer grades, however, yield a rich, ripe liquor, comparatively light in color and delicate in flavor, but lacking in that “toastiness” for which the former are so much admired.

Oochaine—Is a small leaf tea, generally darker in color, heavier in body and more pungent in flavor, but owing to its small size and imperfect preparation not as well appreciated as it deserves.

Hy-chows—Though raised in the adjoining district to Moyune are nevertheless much inferior to them in both leaf and liquor. The dry leaf, while firmly made and regular in form, silvery-green in color and considered attractive in appearance, is still very deceptive and lacking in cup qualities. The infusion, although darker in color and fairly pungent, is light in body and devoid of fragrance, the infused leaf being dark, coarse and irregular.

Fy-chows—Are bold and rough in general appearance, dull in color, dark and heavy in liquor, and somewhat astringent in flavor, and on the whole an undesirable sort.

Tien-kes—While large and coarse in make are pleasing in the hand, being chiefly sold on style, as they will not stand the cup test in comparison with Moyunes. The liquor is dark and thick, astringent and frequently “smoky” in flavor, due to the high firing in the effort to make them roll or curl tighter.

Tai-pings—Like Tien-kes, look well in the hand, being fairly well-made and stylish-looking, but of a leaden-blue hue, the result of the “facing” or coloring-matter used in their preparation in order to enhance their appearance. The infusion is dark and muddy in the cup, flat and frequently “earthy” in taste, the infused leaf being large, coarse, dark and irregular.

Pingsueys—Termed by the Chinese Mien-pan-cha or “Bastard tea,” possess no intrinsic value really as a tea, many experts contending that they are not even allied to the tea plant, but prepared from the leaves of some shrub remotely resembling it. The dry leaf is very stylish and firmly made, but of a leaden-blue color and “greasy” in appearance, gypsum and Prussian blue being extensively used in their manipulation. The liquor is dark and heavy, bitterly astringent and “brassy” or metallic in flavor, while the infused leaf is large, coarse and irregular in shape, dark-brown in color, and recognizable from its dissimilarity to the true tea-leaf.

Canton—Called by the Chinese Tchaw-cha or “Lie-tea,” is another spurious variety, manufactured in that city from “spent” or exhausted tea leaves, that is, from leaves once used and from which the vital properties have been extracted. They are made by first grinding and mixing them with a gluey compound to make them adhere, and then rolled into the form of Imperials and Gunpowders, as they cannot be curled or twisted, after which they are artificially colored or faced with a preparation of Prussian blue, kaolin and turmeric. They are smoothly rolled and leaden-blue in color, having a peculiar greasy external appearance in the hand, due to the mineral matter used in their preparation. They do not possess a single physiological property of tea, yielding only a greenish viscid substance, dark and muddy in color, the so-called leaves disintegrating and settling in a pasty consistency at the bottom of the cup, the liquor being devoid of every semblance of tea.

Country Greens—Are uncultivated teas gathered in outlying districts, rough and uncouth in appearance, bitter and astringent in liquor, wild or “grassy” in flavor. The leaves when unfurled are exceedingly large, rough and uncouth in the cups, having every appearance of a wild or uncultivated tea-leaf.

Sub-Varieties of Green Teas.

Gunpowder—Termed by the Chinese Choo-cha or “Pearl tea,” so named from its small, round and “shotty” form. It is generally prepared from the smallest and youngest leaves of the tea plant, its quality corresponding to the picking and district of growth. The product of first crop is sometimes known as “Pinhead,” from its extremely small, globular and granulated appearance. That prepared from the second crop is larger and not as hard rolled, while the third and fourth pickings are respectively still larger and more irregular in form, but, while darker and heavier in liquor, they are not near as delicate or fragrant in flavor.

Imperial—Derives its trade name from being the make or style of tea used in the Imperial household and the wealthier Chinese. That exported is prepared from the larger and older leaves of the respective pickings and rolled in the same manner as the former, from which fact it is sometimes called “Big Gunpowder” and “Pea-leaf.” But while larger and bolder in make it possesses much the same drawing and drinking qualities, excepting that it is heavier and darker in liquor and not as delicate or aromatic in flavor.

The true Imperial tea, known in China as “Flower tea,” not because it is prepared from the flower or blossom of the tea-plant, as is erroneously supposed, but from its being considered the “perfection of tea.” This variety is never exported owing to its limited production and being also very lightly fired in curing, it is very susceptible to moisture, the damp of a sea voyage tending to greatly impair its delicate properties.

Young Hyson—Is a corruption of the Chinese term, Yu-he-tsien or “Early spring,” from being picked early in the season. In make the leaves of the finer grades are extremely small, firmly, if not artistically twisted, and almost wiry in texture, being prepared from the youngest and tenderest leaves just expanding. The leaves of the later pickings are correspondingly larger and looser in make and appearance, and relatively inferior in drawing and drinking qualities to the earlier pickings.

Hyson—Known to the Chinese as He-tsien, “Flourishing spring,” from being gathered in the full spring-time is a large, loosely-curled leaf, prepared from the older leaves of the respective pickings which cannot from their size and lack of succulence be either rolled or curled. They bear the same relation to Young Hysons that Imperials do to Gunpowder, and preserving the same characteristics in a relatively minor degree.

Hyson-Pekoe—Called by the Chinese “Loung-tsien”, literally “Tea-of-the-wells-of-the-Dragon,” a term used to describe an exceedingly rare, peculiar and expensive variety of green tea, which, owing to its extreme tenderness and delicacy and very light firing is never exported. It has a small, evenly-curled leaf, rich, natural green in color, with whitish, downy or silvery ends. The infusion is of a pale or light-golden yellow tinge, clear and sparkling as champagne in the cups and possessing what the connoisseur would term a simply exquisite aroma or “bouquet.”

Hyson-Skin—Termed by the Chinese Twankay or “Refuse tea,” is composed of the largest and oldest leaves, screenings or “Fannings” of the foregoing varieties, that cannot, owing to their coarse or broken condition, be rolled or curled. It is large, loose and flat in appearance, varying in color, liquor and flavor according to the grade from which it is separated in screening. Many of them, however, draw and drink exceedingly well, making very useful teas for blending purposes.

China Black Teas

comprise Oolongs, Congous, Souchongs and Scented teas, and are principally produced in the south-eastern provinces of Fo-kien and Kiang-nan.

Oolong Teas.

The term Oolong is derived from the Chinese word Ou-loung, signifying “Green dragon,” and is applied to a variety of tea having a small greenish-yellow leaf permeating through it. They are divided into six different kinds—Amoys, Foochows, Formosas, Ankois, Saryune, Padrae and Pekoe-Oolong teas, possessing as many distinct flavors and characters caused by the variations in soil, climate and mode of preparation.

Amoy Oolongs—Are divided into Kokews, Mohea and Ningyong from the localities where grown, and differ much in size, style and character.

Kokew—Is a large, dark, coarse-leaf tea, rough and unsightly in the hand, but pungent and “grippy” in the cup. The poorer grades possess a wild or “herby” flavor—a quality, strange to say, appreciated by some few tea-drinkers, but strongly objected to by the majority of consumers.

Mohea—Is a large, light and somewhat “chaffy” leaf tea, light-colored and light-bodied in the cup, but withal smooth and pleasant in flavor. But, although lacking in strength, it is a serviceable tea for blending purposes, particularly in combination with a heavy Congou or Assam, in the proportion of one of the latter to four parts Mohea, being too thin when used alone.

Ningyongs—Are light in weight, greenish-yellow in color and stylish-looking in the hand, though not well made or twisted. They are also very pleasing in the cup, possessing a sort of “hickory-nut” flavor for which they are much admired, but are thin in body and lacking in “snap.” It is contended by some experts that if this variety were converted into a green tea it would rank with a light drawing Moyune in drinking qualities.

Amoy at one time was the greatest Tea mart in the world, exporting as much as 500,000 half-chests per annum, but which has now fallen to less than 50,000, due in part to careless cultivation and indifferent curing. The lower grades are stemmy, dusty and frequently adulterated with spurious or exhausted leaves. Many of the finer grades, however, still turn out splendidly in the cup, rivalling the lower grades of Foochow and Formosa, being frequently faced and sold for the latter when these grades are scarce or high. It does not require an expert, however, to detect the substitution, as they are totally devoid of the fragrant and “nosey” flavor that so distinguish the latter.

Foochow Oolongs—Are produced in the province of Fo-kien, and are, without exception, the truest and finest variety of the genus tea grown in any country, China not excepted. They are usually put up in “chops,” quantities bearing the brand or chop-mark of the grower or packer, which are again divided. “Lines,” termed in trade, “Firsts,” “Seconds,” “Thirds,” “Fourths,” and sometimes “Fifths,” denoting the various pickings and grading in the order named.

The dried leaf of the “Firsts” or finer grades is black and almost “silky” in texture, exceedingly well twisted and crispy, but not brittle, yielding rather than breaking when pressed in the hand. While the infusion is dark-golden in color, rich, round and full bodied, very mellow and fragrant in flavor, the infused leaf medium in size, very regular in form and of a rich brown color.

The “Seconds” are somewhat larger in leaf, looser in make, not being quite as finely or evenly twisted but possessing excellent “cup qualities,” being the favorite with consumers who prefer full body, to delicate flavor. The “Thirds” are still looser in make, bolder in style and darker in liquor, heavier in body, and though not near as high or fragrant in flavor are, nevertheless useful and serviceable, particularly when they are composed of what is known as “high district teas.”

The “Fourths and Fifths,” when there are any, are correspondingly inferior in quality, the dried leaf of the latter being especially large, coarse and rough in appearance, brittle and chaffy in the hand, and frequently dusty or stemmy, dark in draw but thin in body, lacking in flavor, deteriorating rapidly after infusion, and devoid of the high character that so distinguishes the former grades of this variety. The principal “chops” now known to trade comprise the “Tong-mow,” “Tong-lee,” “Tong-shing,” “Chun-fah,” “Chun-fat,” “Sun-kee,” “Cheong-kee,” “Com-we” and “Com-wo-kut chops.”

Formosa Oolongs—Also known to trade as “Tam-suis,” from being shipped from that port, are unique in leaf, and flavor differing widely in character, possessing a rich, natural bouquet entirely unknown to any other variety. The dried leaf is dark greenish-yellow in color, evenly and artistically curled, crisp and “crapy” in texture, small, shapely, uniform, and green when infused, generally “tipped” with a brownish edge, the result of fermentation. The liquor is bright, clear, and golden in the cup, body round and mellow, ripe and rich and aromatic in flavor. A really choice Formosa tea when drawn will fill a room with a delightful aroma peculiar to itself, difficult to describe, but variously pronounced as “jessamine,” “cowslip” or “primrose” odor, but still totally unlike that of any other plant or flower in the vegetable kingdom, having a “Formosa flavor” pure and simple, attributed to the soil, and absorbed by the plants during growth, and to preserve which it has to be continually cultivated in new places. Unlike other varieties the later pickings of Formosa teas are heavier and stronger than the earlier gatherings; though sweet and fragrant, are light-bodied and evanescent. The medium and lower grades are dark-brown in color, somewhat rough in style, not being as well cured or curled as the finer sorts. The infusion is also darker in draw, fuller in body, but not near as fragrant or aromatic in flavor, the finer grades improving as it cools, the former deteriorating under the same circumstances and revealing a slightly “herby” taste.

Formosa Oolongs are cultivated by native farmers who have small gardens, some of whom do not raise over one hundred pounds at a picking, but have from three to five pickings in a season. Unlike other varieties, the first picking of Formosa is the poorest, the second crop being better and the last or autumn crop is best of all. This inversion is due to climatic causes, the island being visited with heavy rains during August, after which the warm weather of September causes the plant to grow luxuriantly, filling the leaf with sap, added to which the moisture of the atmosphere causes the leaves to ferment quickly during the process of curing, allowing the manufacturers to cure the leaf without exposing it to the sun. The great strength of the leaf enables the manufacturer to fire the leaves longer; the longer they are fired the longer they will keep, the third crop, or “Autumn teas,” that have been well-fired improving with time after exposure to the air, the action of the atmosphere bringing out the fragrance of the tea, the toasty flavor at the same time disappearing.

Ankoi-Oolongs—Are a doubtful species of the genus tea, said to be prepared from the leaves of a shrub closely resembling yet widely distinct in structure and character from those of the true plant, found growing in a wild state on the range of mountains known as the Anke hills, separating the district of Amoy from Foochow. The leaf, in a dried state, is rough, coarse and reddish-brown in color, poorly curled and ragged in general appearance. In the infusion it is dark-brown, large and irregular in form, notably dissimilar from that of a genuine tea-leaf in all respects, while the liquor is dark-red, oily or “earthy,” and bitterly astringent to the taste, qualities contracted from the presence of oxides in the soil in which they grow. Intrinsically, this variety possesses no value really as tea, bearing the same relation to Oolongs that Pingsueys do to Green teas, and although known to the Chinese as “Bastard tea,” it is extensively used by them in the reduction of Amoys, to which it imparts a wild, rank or weedy flavor readily detected in the cup.

Padrae-Oolong—Is a scarce sort prepared in the Bohea district from a species that is unsuited for conversion into plain Oolong. The leaf is long, black, flattish, but finely made, after the manner of a Souchong, and closely approximating to the latter in color, liquor and flavor. They are chiefly exported to the Russian market, where they are much esteemed for their unique but superb drinking qualities.

Pekoe-Oolongs—Are what is known to trade as a “Made tea,” that is, prepared from leaves which, from their nature or quality, cannot be converted into an Oolong or Green tea, or from leaves spoiled by imperfect fermentation, smoke or fire in curing, flavored or scented with Pekoe in order to disguise or conceal their defects. The dried leaf is generally long, flat and very black, being over-fired, while the liquor is dark-wine color, sharp, pungent, but burnt to the taste, and approaching to that of Tienke green in flavor.

Saryune—Is a bold, dark-leaved variety, rather loosely made and curled. The liquor is heavy, dark, rich and pungent, brisk, but somewhat burnt in flavor, the result of too high firing. The infused leaf is medium in size, regular in form, dark-brown in color, with darker edges, approximating to that of a Congou leaf in color and style.

CONGOU, SOUCHONG AND SCENTED TEAS,

known to trade in this country as “English Breakfast teas,” from having at one time formed the staple shipment to that country, are produced in the province of Kiang-see, and are a distinct variety, differing in color, liquor and flavor from the Oolong sorts. They are cultivated chiefly on the Bou-iu (Bohea) mountains, in the district of Woo-e-shan, which, though very sterile in some parts, are literally covered with tea plantations. More of these varieties are produced than of all others combined, the product of the Pa-ta-shan range being classed among the finest grown.

CONGOU TEAS.

The term Congou is a corruption of the Chinese term Kowng-foo, meaning “laborious” or “assiduous sort,” more time and labor being expended on their manipulation than on the other varieties, and are commercially divided into Kaisows or “Red-leaf” and Monings or “Black-leaf Congou teas.”

KAISOW
OR
RED-LEAF CONGOUS

include Chingwos, Seumoo, Suey-kut, Sin-chune, Saryune, Cheong-soo, Cheong-lok, Cheong-syke, So-how, Yung-how, Wang-hung and Yung-tong Congou teas.

Chingwos—Are the finest of all the red-leaf sorts, particularly when the crop is good; the dry leaf is well curled or twisted, keeping well up to a certain point and improving as it matures. The lower grades, however, deteriorate very rapidly, and in proportion to the openness or looseness of the leaf on arrival. Its special feature is its delicate and, to a degree, fragrant flavor which it imparts to other teas in combination, provided the other teas are not too strong and coarse. The liquor is not, as a rule, very dark, but reddish in hue, and possessing a round, mellow flavor, for which it is more esteemed than for its body or color in the cup.

Seumoo—Is a long, bold, somewhat rough-leaved tea, dark-red in color and “coarse” in flavor. The finer grades are, however, fairly thick and strong in liquor, many of them although round and full are frequently dull and flavorless, but combining well with strong Assams. Seumoos make an excellent base when combined with the latter, the pungency of the Assam imparting the briskness and body which it lacks when used alone.

Suey-kut—Is a brisk but mostly burnt variety, being as a rule, too highly fired. The dry leaf of the first pickings is evenly twisted, black and stylish in the hand, its strength and flavor is but average, and quality generally only fair in the cup. The commoner grades, though usually well-made and pleasing in appearance, are frequently stemmy or dusty.

Sin-chune—Is neither a large or greatly valued sort, the dry leaf being loose in make, mixed and ragged in appearance, and objectionably dusty, while the liquor is hard and dry to dullness, lacking both in flavor and aroma.

Saryune—Is the reddest of the Red-leaf teas, and while one of the most serviceable of this variety, is not a fine sort by any means, though often ripe and juicy. The liquor is almost invariably strong and brisk, but burnt in flavor, the result of too high firing, and with the exception of a few of the finer grades the leaf is rarely well curled, being generally open, red and rough in appearance, the second and third crops being usually very dusty or stemmy.

Cheong-soo—Is a scarce sort, varying in quantity and quality from year to year, but quite a desirable one, particularly when the crop is good; but fine Cheong-soos are rarely seen in this market.

Cheong-lok—Is a tea of negative character, the liquor possessing little or no strength and the leaf having a rough, red, unsightly appearance in the hand.

Cheong-syke—Is also best described by negatives, the dry leaf being dark-brown and coarse, the liquor lacking the strength of Sin-chune and the briskness of Saryune.

So-how—Is small and well made in leaf, dark, but rich in liquor, and smooth and mellow in flavor for this variety of tea.

Yung-how—Closely approaches Suey-kut in appearance, drawing and drinking qualities, but is less burnt in taste and rather stronger, and more flavory in the infusion.

Wang-hung and Yung-tong—Are both high-fired, brisk, but burnt varieties, dark-red in leaf and liquor, and not, as a general rule, either useful or valuable sorts to the dealer.

MONING
OR
BLACK-LEAF CONGOUS

comprise Ning-chows, Oonfas, Oopacks, Oonams, Kin-tucks, Kee-muns, Kiu-kiangs, Panyong, Hapyong, Paklin and Paklums, and constitute the true Black teas of China.

Ning-chow—Is a small, evenly-curled leaf, greyish-black in color and very stylish in general appearance, the finer grades being “Pekoe-tipped” and flavored. The infusion is dark red or wine-colored but delicate and aromatic, more so than that of any tea of this variety, while the infused leaf is small, tender, symmetrical and of a bright brown or reddish tendency. The lower grades are fairly thick and strong, making a useful tea for the retailer, as they keep well and combine advantageously with most other varieties, less regular and uniform, browner and given to “choppiness” and dust. The liquor, though of good color, is not as clear and bright, the infused leaf being more markedly red than that of the former sorts. The medium and lower grades are fairly thick in the cup; but have a tendency to become overripe, and while not keeping, still blend well with a pungent Assam or light-bodied Oolong tea.

Oonfa—While not as finely twisted or as handsome as Ning-chow, is still the next most important of the Black-leaf Congous. The dried leaf of the finer grades is bold in make, yielding a dark, heavy liquor, lacking in fragrance, but proving a desirable sort where body and strength is required. The medium grades are rough and open, the liquor, though mostly strong, is often “tarry,” and frequently sour when kept too long, while the lower grades are thin in body and coarse in flavor, having nothing to recommend them but their leaf, which is generally free from dust.

Oopack—Grown on the banks of the Yang Tse, a little above Hankow, is a “crapy” black leaf tea, evenly curled, but somewhat bold in style. When freshly fired they are flavory and aromatic, but become dull and “brassy” as the firing wears off, for which reason it is not a good tea to keep. If used quick, however, it blends well with broken Assam, when thick and heavy, the commoner grades being fairly smooth and sweet in the cup, though coarse and rough in the hand.

Oonams—Are a class of tea somewhat resembling Oopacks in style and draw, but preferable to the latter approximating closer to Ning-chow in flavor. The dry-leaf is also more evenly twisted, smaller and greyer and the infusion fuller and stronger.

Kin-tuck—Is comparatively a new variety, but is rapidly becoming one of the most important of the Congou sorts, the quality of the choicer grades being especially good, rivalling the finest Ning-chows, particularly when the crop is good.

Kee-mun—Is another of the newest descriptions of China Congou teas, possessing many of the characteristics of Kin-tuck, to which it is closely allied. The dried leaf varies considerably in style and appearance, some lots having an evenly-curled and handsome leaf, while others again are brownish and irregular; some of the earlier pickings possess a peculiar flavor termed “chocolate,” for which they are much prized.

Kiu-kiang—Comes from Hohow, one of the most northern of the Moning districts, the quality of the finest first pickings being simply superb. The dry leaf, is black, uniform and free from dust, while the infused leaf is bright-brown and very regular; but, with all these advantages, they are lacking in strength or “snap” and consequently are not of such value as their character on first appearance would seem to indicate. They deteriorate very rapidly, more so than any other of this variety, and while the medium grades are a little fuller in body, from the highest to the lowest the same want of strength is found.

Panyong—Is an exceedingly black, “silky” and stylish leaf tea, rich, strong and mellow in the cup. The finer grades corresponding in value and quality with those of the same grades of Ning-chow, for which kind it may be freely substituted in any emergency.

Hapyongs—Are medium in size, fairly made and pleasing in the hand, heavy, dark, smooth and fragrant in the cup. While the infused leaf is dark, regular and uniform, it is liable to be coarse and dark.

Paklin—Is a large and important variety, not very dissimilar to Ning-chow, but lacking in that roundness and delicacy in the cup, for which the latter is so highly valued. The dry-leaf of the finer grades is smaller, more evenly twisted, and blacker than that of any other grown in China. The infused leaf is bright-red, regular and tender; the liquor is dark-red, and though lacking in fulness the general cup qualities of the infusion is of a very superior order.

Paklum—While fuller and rounder in body than Paklin, yields a sweet and pleasant liquor, but is inferior to that of the latter variety in flavor and aroma. The dried leaf is also very black, fairly made and often “tippy” in the hand.

Some Congou teas are also produced in other districts of China, being known to trade as Amoy, Ankoi, Qui-fa, Padrae, Pekoe and Canton Congou teas.

Amoy Congou—Known to trade also as “Swat-how,” is invariably burnt in flavor, but when the crop is good, is brisk and strong in the cup. The dry-leaf being coarse and loosely folded, they deteriorate very rapidly, becoming wild or “weedy” in flavor as they mature.

Qui-fa—Is a “tarry” tea, allied to Amoy, but more evenly curled and blacker in color. The liquor is strong and brisk, and not quite as rank or bitter as that of the former. The infused leaf is very coarse and irregular in form, often broken and very dark in color.

Ankoi Congou—The difference between Ankoi and Amoy Congou is not very wide, the former being ranker, if anything. They are generally rougher in make, dull-black in color, thick and muddy in the cup, bitter and astringent in flavor, more particularly the commoner grades, which are in addition broken, stemmy and dusty.

Padrae-Congou—Is a strong, high-fired tea, large in leaf, black and “crispy” in style, and useful only for its great strength and pungency in the cup. The lower grades are frequently “soapy” or “mousey” in flavor, and invariably dusty.

Pekoe-Congou—Approximates closest to Chingwo in make and general appearance, but are more artistically twisted and darker in color and “Pekoe-tipped,” the flavor being sacrificed to style and finish. The infused leaf is medium sized, regularly formed and reddish in color, while the liquor is fairly rich, fragrant and pekoe-flavored to a high degree.

Canton Congous—Are principally manufactured teas, being composed of exhausted leaves, refired and faced with plumbago, or other coloring-matter, and do not contain the semblance of tea in the cup.

Campoi—A corruption of the Chinese term Chien-pei, or “Kampoey,” meaning “selected for firing;” is a particular variety of Congou, smaller in leaf, darker in color and much better curled, but not as dark in the infusion. It possesses a more delicate flavor, is not as strong in body, and being limited in quantity, but little is ever exported.

Bohea—Is a term applied in China to a sort composed of old, broken and inferior leaves, and the refuse of the Congou kinds. It was formerly largely exported to England, but is now retained chiefly for home consumption, from its cheapness, by the poorer Chinese.

NEW DISTRICT CONGOUS

comprise “Hoyunes,” “Tayshans,” “Cantons,” “Macaos,” and many others new to commerce. The finer Hoyunes are a brownish-grey leaf tea, varying in length and curl, the finer grades of which are round and pungent, yielding a deep-red liquor and bright-brown infused leaf. The lower grades, however, are rough and irregular in make, brownish in color and dull and harsh in flavor. Tayshans and Macaos are among the newest makes of Congous lately introduced, the former being prepared in imitation of Moning and the latter of a Kaisow. Many of the new makes, while flavory, are lacking in strength; others again are strong almost to rankness. “Ho-how” is the commonest of these descriptions of Congous, the leaf being large and ragged and form “earthy,” and may be termed the “Pingsuey” of this variety. There is still another called “Kut-oan,” recently prepared as an experiment from the leaf of a Green tea plant grown in the Nankin district and said to be equal in every respect to the finest Kaisow in leaf, liquor and flavor.

SOUCHONG TEAS

are among the finest and richest of the Black tea sorts, being known to the Chinese as Saou-cheong, “Little,” or “scarce sort,” and are limited in supply. They are chiefly prepared from the youngest leaves of the earliest pickings, gathered only in the finest weather, and dried in the shade to protect them from the direct rays of the sun. The dry leaf is longer but thinner than that of the Congou sorts; folded rather than curled or twisted, but possessing somewhat similar drinking qualities. They are classed in trade as Lapsing, Tong-quam, Padrae, Pekoe, Oolong, and Canton Souchongs.

Lapsing—Prepared in the district of Foochow, is also known to trade as “Foochow-Souchong,” is a large, handsome, crapy leaf, finely made and lightly fired, possessing a rich, wine-colored liquor with fragrant flavor, entirely peculiar to itself, described as “tarry flavor,” which when not too pronounced adds rather than detracts from its worth. The product of the later pickings are of less strength and flavor, but are still very smooth and pleasant in liquor and flavor, and generally shipped to the Russian market, where they are held in high esteem for their intrinsic qualities.

Oolong-Souchong—Is another variety of the foregoing, prepared from the leaves of a plant that cannot well be made into either sort, the greatest care being taken in its manipulation. It is stylish in leaf, closely approximating to Foochow Oolong in the dried state, very clear, rich and translucent in the infusion, but though light in weight and color is yet very deceptive, being full of snap and sparkle, fragrant and aromatic.

Tong-quam—Is a long, flat, black-leaf Souchong tea carefully folded, but little understood by the general trade, owing to the liquor possessing nearly the same flavor and pungency as that of a Red-leaf Congou, usually more round and fuller, the dry leaf being slightly bolder and blacker in appearance.

Padrae-Souchong—Is a jet-black leaf, small and “crapy” in texture, usually prepared from the youngest and tenderest leaves of the Congou order, and which it closely resembles in general character and flavor. The dry leaf is, however, much smaller, flatter and darker, but greatly excelling them in the delicacy and fragrance of the infusion.

Pekoe-Souchong—Is prepared from the leaves that have developed too much to be converted into the former kind, which is small in size. The dry leaf is medium-sized, very black and moderately “tipped” at the ends with a whitish-downy substance termed “pekoe.” In liquor they are strong, dark, pungent and fragrant in flavor and aroma.

Canton Souchongs—Are prepared from old and exhausted leaves collected in a careless manner, exposed in the sun to dry, and packed in baskets until they reach that city, where they are refired, colored and scented in order to disguise their bitter, rank and astringent properties.

SCENTED TEAS

form a special class of the Chinese product comprising Capers, Pekoes and Pouchong teas, being known to trade as Foochows, Cantons and Macaos.

Caper—Known to the Chinese as He-choo-cha, “Black pearl,” or Gunpowder, from its small, round or spherical appearance, resembling capers. It is prepared from the largest but most succulent leaves of the first pickings, and cured by a series of brisk firings and rollings, after which it is placed in moulds, in order to make it retain its globular shape. The dried leaf is small, round and “shotty” in appearance, reddish-black in color, glossy and highly scented. The infusion is wine-colored, piquant and aromatic, possessing what is technically termed a rich “bouquet,” the infused leaf, when uncurled, being very symmetrical in form and dark-brown in color.

Pekoes—From the Chinese Pai-ho, or Pak-ho, signifying “white down,” is applied to a variety of tea having a whitish downy or “silvery” tip at the end of the leaves. It is usually prepared from the youngest and tenderest leaf-buds first expanding, and was at one time claimed to be composed of the flower or blossom of the tea plant, hence its French name, “fleur de thé,” an error long since corrected, as the tea blossom possesses none of the properties of the leaf, though frequently used for scenting purposes.

Orange-Pekoe—Recognized by its long, flat, even and artistically folded leaf, jet-black color, and yellowish downy tips at the ends. It is highly scented, yielding a rich wine-colored liquor, piquant, pungent and aromatic in the cup, the infused leaf being small, bright and closely resembling that of choicest Oolong variety.

Flowery-Pekoe—Is a smaller but more evenly folded leaf, greenish-black or olive-colored, with ends ornamented by whitish, “velvety” tips, being also very highly scented. The infusion is lighter in color and body but piquant and aromatic in flavor, the infused leaf small, dark and perfectly formed.

Hung-muey—Is still another variety of Pekoe rarely exported, having a plain black leaf lightly tipped and lightly scented, and yielding an infusion dark in color, thin in body, but very fragrant and aromatic in flavor.

Pouchong—Derives its trade name from Paou-cheong, meaning “wrapped sort.” The leaf is rough and bold in style, dull-black in color and peculiar in scent. The latter being imparted by the admixture of the seeds of the Lan-hoa, or Chulan flower, the finer grades of which are deep red, rich and pleasing, but the lower ones are often abominable.

Pouchong-Pekoe—Is usually prepared from the undeveloped leaves or just expanding buds of the tea plant, and is a small, glossy-black leaf with yellowish-golden tips, yielding an intensely rich liquor very piquant and highly aromatic in flavor.

Padrae-Pouchong—Is a medium-sized leaf, exceedingly black in color and well folded. The liquor is dark, full, round and aromatic in flavor, but light and thin in body.

Canton Scented Teas—Known to trade as Congee—“Lic” or “made teas,” to a large extent being purchased in the natural state, converted into Capers and Pekoes at will, and doctored or scented up to a certain standard by contract. They are much higher scented than Foochows, but lacking in the properties of true tea, less pungent in liquor and devoid of character or flavor.

Macao Scented Teas—Known also as “New district,” are closely allied to Cantons in make, appearance and character of scent. The dry leaf is somewhat larger and darker in color, the flavor being dull and peculiar in the infusion.

The fragrance of Scented teas is not, as is generally supposed, natural to them, but imparted by the admixture of the flowers, blossoms, leaves, or oils extracted from the seeds or roots of other plants, such as the Orange, Jessamine, Chlorantus, Gardenia, and Oleo-fragrans. The leaves and blossoms of the Iris, Curcunia, and oil of Bixa orelana being also extensively used. In some districts the scenting material is added to the tea during the firing process, and afterwards separated by sifting. It is, however, more generally introduced into the tea after it is prepared and ready for packing; one pound of leaves or blossoms being the usual proportion to each hundred pounds of tea. They are spread over the top of the tea in the chest and allowed to remain for at least a day, or until it becomes strongly impregnated by absorbing their moisture, and then removed, the duration depending on the character of the scenting employed, the scent increasing after the tea is packed for export. But though scenting in general is supposed to be confined to the choicer grades of tea it is as often applied to the inferior sorts, with the object of disguising or concealing their defective or damaged condition, and imparting a pleasant odor, a much larger quantity being used in the latter. The scenting greatly modifies and improves the flavor, however, without adding any pernicious or deleterious substance to the tea.

Consumers not accustomed to using these varieties erroneously imagine, from the dark color of the leaf and liquor, that they are much stronger and more exciting than that of the Oolong or Green tea sorts. While the contrary is the case, it requiring one-third more leaf of corresponding quality to yield an infusion of equal strength than of Oolong or Green tea sorts. The “smoky” and “tarry” flavors possessed by many of them, and for which this variety is so remarkable, is due in a great measure to the use of ill-made charcoal in firing and the use of soft woods containing tar or pitch, such as fir and pine, in its preparation. The worst feature about which is that this “smokiness” and “tarriness” does not develop until long after the teas have left China, and are offered for sale. It is also a noticeable fact that certain waters serve to bring out these peculiarities more prominently than others, American waters in particular.

OTHER CHINESE VARIETIES.

Besides these numerous ordinary teas of commerce, there are several other varieties cultivated in China, but principally for home consumption and rarely if ever exported, among which may be mentioned:—

Suen-cha—Or “Sweet tea,” made from the leaves of a slender shrub growing in the western province of Sze-chuan, and peculiar only to that section. The leaf is large, thick and odorless in the green or natural state, but when cured exhales a rare and peculiar odor, and possesses a sweet, liquorice-like taste in the infusion, not altogether pleasant.

Peh-Yuen-cha—Or “White cloud tea,” prepared from another rare species of the tea shrub found near the summit of Mount Ombei in the same province and most dissimilar in character and flavor from that of the regular teas of commerce. It yields an aromatic infusion, peculiar but palatable, and is chiefly used by pilgrims and travelers in that country.

Mandarin Tea—Is still another rare variety, seldom if ever exported, its use being confined to the Mandarins and aristocracy of China. The leaf is exceeding small, dark, crisp and tender, lightly fired and highly scented, commanding as high as fifteen dollars per pound in the home market.

Brick Tea—Is composed of the old leaves, stems, siftings and sweepings of the Chinese tea hongs, ground fine, moistened and compressed into shapes somewhat larger than regular building bricks. It has nothing to recommend it as a tea, being sold chiefly to the Mongols, Tartars and other tribes of Central Asia, among whom it also serves as a currency.

Tablet Tea—Is a “new make” of tea recently introduced in China, appearing for the first time in the trade returns last year. It is prepared by machinery from the best quality of tea-dust, formed by pressure alone into small cakes in the form of tablets perfectly hard and solid, resembling chocolate in make and appearance. It is not, like “brick tea,” moistened by steam before being compressed, and the flavor is not in any way impaired by the process of manufacture. One of the chief advantages claimed for this form of tea is that, being subjected to heavy hydraulic pressure, all the cells are broken and the properties of the tea are more easily and completely extracted by the boiling water, thus effecting a considerable saving in the quantity required for a given amount of the beverage. Its principal market is Russia, which took from China last year over 500,000 pounds in the form of tablets.

Medicine Tea—Is prepared from the coarse leaves and stems of the ordinary tea plant, ground and mixed with medicinal herbs, packed in bundles and used for medicinal purposes among Asiatic tribes.

Log-tea—Is also prepared from the ordinary teas of commerce. It is a very inferior grade, prepared from the stalks, packed in the shape of logs, weighing from 8 to 10 pounds, and wrapped in the leaves of the bambusa, and packed in this manner from motives of economy and freight.

The total production of tea in China is unknown, and can at best be only roughly estimated, and while we have no certain means of ascertaining the quantity consumed in that country itself, fair conclusion may be drawn from the data at hand. Taking the population at 400 millions and considering that the use of tea is universal among its inhabitants, an average of five pounds per capita would not be an overestimate, making a total of two billion pounds alone for home consumption. Again averaging the product at 100 pounds of cured tea per acre and the total area under tea cultivation at 20 million acres, if, therefore, we admit the home consumption of tea in China to be two billion pounds, we cannot but be surprised at the relatively small quantity which is exported from that country. According to the latest statistics, we find that the total exports to all countries from China does not exceed 200 million pounds, which is less than one-tenth of the total production of that country.