INDIA TEAS.
One of the most remarkable circumstances in connection with the development of the Tea trade is the rapid increase in the production and consumption of India Teas. Almost unknown to commerce thirty years ago, they are fast becoming an important factor in the business, particularly in the English and colonial markets, India being already of such importance to them as a source of tea supply that it is only a question of a very short time when the tea consumers of these countries will no longer regard China as a tea-growing country indispensable to them.
As far as can be ascertained, the first announcement of the discovery of the tea-plant in India was made in 1833, but owing to imperfect specimens being sent to botanists for inspection, it was not at the time considered a true species. It was fully demonstrated, however, in 1835, when a plant with perfect leaves, flowers and seeds was obtained which proved on analysis to be a species of the genus tea allied to, but not identical with that of China; Burmese and Chinese experts, to whom the specimens were submitted, concurring in the statement. The report being favorable, an experimental plantation was immediately established under government auspices with results not known. The first plantation for its cultivation on a commercial scale was formed in Lukhimpore in 1836, from which the first samples were received in 1839, and the first sales made in 1840. But, owing to the unfavorable reports given on the first samples of the tea prepared from the India leaf, it was rejected by the London brokers. The propriety of introducing the China species was next suggested by some planters, and tons of seed were at once imported from that country, large estates being formed from the plants raised from it. Many of the plantations were finally composed of hybrids or crosses between the China and India species, which is now claimed to have been an error, as the nearer each variety approaches to the indigenous the higher its excellence.
The tea-producing districts of India are widely scattered, the largest—Assam—being situated in the extreme northeast of the country bordering on the Burmese Empire, the others being located on the northwestern boundary of Nepaul and the Punjaub, while Central India appears to be entirely devoid of tea gardens up to the present. There are numerous plantations, however, scattered over the southwestern provinces of the peninsula, most notably in Wynaad, Neilgherry and Travancore. In India, tea is grown on extensive estates, often comprising thousands of acres, situated principally in the alluvial valleys of large rivers, or formed on land reclaimed from primeval jungle, possessing all the richness of virgin soil and cultivated either by the individual owners or the agents of companies commanding considerable capital. Every detail of cultivation and preparation is conducted under close and careful European supervisors. The plants are raised from seed sown in nurseries until they are about 18 inches high, when they are transplanted to the rows in the gardens in which they are to grow, the closest attention being paid to weeding and irrigating. The young trees are carefully pruned periodically and reduced to a bushy form, until they are from two to three years old, when the first picking commences, the exact time for picking being determined by the overseer. The leaves are removed in such a manner as to cause no subsequent injury to the plants, by which care the India planter is enabled to obtain from twelve to sixteen pickings in a single season, the Chinese grower being limited to three or four at the utmost.
Each separate picking in India is termed a “Flush,” a number of flushes constituting a “Break” or “Chop,” as in China, which is rarely more than 100 chests and frequently as low as 20, but generally uniform in grade. There is another remarkable feature about India teas; it is that while the first, second and third pickings of all other teas are respectively inferior to each other there is nothing in the India pickings to denote their relationship to any crop or gathering. The number of pickings from the India plant also varies considerably according to the soil, situation, garden and season. When all these conditions are favorable, the plantation will yield as many as sixteen “flushes,” while ordinarily and often under the most unfavorable conditions five to six are obtained in a single season.
There is no radical difference between the Chinese and Indian methods of preparation up to what is termed the “Rolling process;” it being performed in the latter country very lightly and only by a minimum of pressure by machinery. Each day’s collection is immediately “withered” until thoroughly evaporated, when they are as promptly cured and fired. The processes of fermenting and firing are not as detailed or complete as in China, the India planter aiming to secure the component properties of a strong tea at the expense of flavor and keeping qualities. In India the tea is generally prepared from the young shoots, two leaves only being picked at a time and “withered” in the open air without any extraneous aid, much, however, depending on the skill and knowledge of the operators in arresting the process at the exact moment. When the proper point is reached they are immediately removed to a “drying” room, and laid out on trays until the excessive moisture has been dissipated, this process being hastened by occasional blasts of hot air driven through by a machine. When sufficient moisture has been extracted they are placed in a heavy rolling machine and tossed about until all the cellular tissues are broken, when they begin to curl up tightly, as if by the action of the hand, after which they are placed in heaps on tables for some hours to allow them to ferment; the color, meanwhile, changing from green to a dark bronze during the process.
In the process of “firing” the leaves are spread out in a series of wire-gauze trays, placed in layers in a hot-air machine, known as a “Sirocco,” from the fact that the current of vapor arising from it is suggestive of the hot winds of the desert, and in which the temperature averages some 300 degrees. These screens are operated either in a lateral or rotary direction also by steam, the tea being thoroughly fired in from twenty to twenty-five minutes, and separated into the different grades at the same time. But on some plantations the tea is afterwards bulked in large tin-lined cases until a considerable quantity is accumulated, when it is again lightly fired, the operations of sorting and grading being again performed by machinery previous to being packed in the teak-wood chests, in which it is finally shipped. The curing and firing of tea by hot air and machinery in India is fast superseding the primitive arrangements and charcoal processes so long in use in China. Yet though much more rapid and effective in its work, and certain not to taint the leaves in any manner, it is still an open question whether the older and slower methods of curing in pans over charcoal fires is not after all the better one. That the teas are not properly cured or thoroughly fired by this over-hasty method is evidenced by the fact that India teas in general are noted for their great excess of tannin and peculiar raw, “grassy,” uncooked or herby flavor. But labor and fuel-saving machinery are effecting such economy in the cultivation and preparation of tea in India as to yearly reduce the cost of its production. So many improvements for drying, rolling, firing and sorting are annually being recorded that it is difficult even to estimate at what figure it may be produced there in the future.
India teas comprise Assams, Cachars, Darjeelings, Deradoons, Kumaons, Dooars, Chittagongs, Juligoories, Rangworths and Neilgherries, district terms, ranking in the order named, and are converted into Pekoes, Souchongs, Pekoe-Souchongs, Congous, Broken-leaf and Fannings. In make, style, color, flavor, and general appearance, India teas resemble most the Congou sorts of China, but many of them being produced from a combination of the China and India plants are hybrid in character, differing essentially from either originals. Most of them possess a sharp, acrid taste, not to be found in any other variety, and a peculiar flavor rarely liked by consumers, unless when tempered with the softer and more mellow China growths, and to neutralize which peculiarity it is at all times necessary to use only the best India grades. In make they are in general longer and narrower in leaf, darker in color, more shapely, better curled or twisted, and finer in texture than the corresponding Chinese varieties.
Assams—Are greyish-black in color, the leaf of the finer grades being “Pekoe-tipped” and evenly curled. The liquor is unusually strong and pungent, in addition to being thick and heavy in body. The infused leaf dark-brown, with a reddish tinge, and almost perfect in form.
Cachars—Are blacker in color, but not as well curled or even in appearance. The liquor is softer and occasionally “fruity,” approaching a burnt flavor, while the infused leaf is larger, darker and not as finely shaped.
Darjeeling—Is a hybrid variety, produced from a cross between the China and India species, and partaking somewhat of the character of both. It is still blacker in the dry leaf, but on an average not as finely curled, and while full in body is not as pungent or flavory in the cup. The infused leaf is more bright, tender, shapely and “salmony” red in color.
Kangras—As a rule are dark and symmetrical in leaf, light in liquor, but delicate and aromatic in flavor. The infused leaf is reddish-brown in color, with dark or burnt edges, but perfect in shape and form.
Deradoon—Is a high-fired tea, loosely made and deteriorating rapidly, becoming sour on exposure to the air. Occasionally the flavor is “earthy,” analagous to that of Ankoi Oolong, for which reason they are not much sought after.
Kumaon—Is generally converted into Green teas, including Imperials, Gunpowders, and Hysons, all being prepared from the same leaf. The chief difference lies in their make and color, as they still retain all the characteristics of liquor and flavor of India teas.
Chittagongs—Are strong, thick and heavy in the cup; “nutty” in flavor and considered good, useful teas for blending purposes, from their great strength and positive character, for which qualities they are always in good demand.
Dooars—Approximate to Cachars in color, make and general appearance, strong, but rough in liquor, pungent and pleasing in flavor, a valuable tea for blending, imparting tone and character to any combination in which they may be used.
Neilgherry—Is a very inferior sort, bearing the same relation to India teas that Ankois do to Oolongs and Pingsueys to Green teas. The leaf in general is black, coarse, “tippy,” rough and unsightly in the hand, while the liquor is thin, muddy and rank or “weedy” in flavor.
Travancore—Is a “new district” tea, which, like all new teas, is large and coarse in leaf, heavy and dark in liquor, and strong and wild or “grassy” in flavor.
Juligoorie and Rangworths—Are bold in style, rather rough in make, but regular and well developed. The liquor is thick and rich in color, rough or “rasping” in flavor, but occasionally smooth and “toasty,” while the infused leaves are bright and well formed as a rule.
SUB-VARIETIES OF INDIA TEA.
India Pekoes—Are ordinarily of a greyish-black hue, with a fair sprinkling of grayish-yellow tips, downy in appearance, while the liquor is very strong, brisk and pungent, varying in quality and flavor according to the district of production.
Orange-Pekoe—Is a small, evenly-curled leaf, having a yellowish or golden “tip” at the ends. In liquor and flavor it approximates close to plain Pekoe, being devoid of scent, that many growers make no distinction between them.
Flowery-Pekoe—Is not picked from the plant, but separated from the other grades, only the buds and youngest leaves being selected. The cured leaf is small, uniform and tender, silvery-green in color, although highly-fired, pale but strong in liquor, approaching that of a Moyune Green in flavor, being very deceptive in strength and astringency. The infused leaf is symmetrical in form, small and light-green in color, approaching that of a Foochow Oolong in appearance in the cup.
Souchong—Forms the bulk of the India product and may be classed as the “Standard grade;” the qualifications for being comprehended under this rating are its even, straight, slightly curled leaf, dark color, stylish appearance and greater quantity. Yet while its liquor does not possess the deep strength and pungency of the Pekoe sorts, it is generally full and round in body and mellow or “malty” in flavor.
Pekoe-Souchong—Is a term applied to Pekoe leaves devoid of tips, as well as to Souchong containing a fair sprinkling of tipped leaves. But, as a general rule, it is an unassorted tea, composed principally of the larger and coarser leaves of both Pekoe and Souchong that will not pass through the sieves, and possessing in the cup the distinctive properties of the combination.
India Congou—Is a tea of the Souchong order too large to be made into that kind or a smaller leaf unevenly prepared. In liquor and flavor it is much the same as Souchong, but is not always as heavy, strong or mellow in flavor.
Broken-leaf—As its name implies, is composed of a mixture of the various kinds broken in manipulation, and is a term of great comprehensiveness, as it may include all the lower grades or approach the choicest kinds in character and value. It varies in color from brown to blackish, its strength being seldom great, though the flavor of the finer grades is, in general, good; that of the commoner ones being poor, thin and coarse.
India Bohea—Consists chiefly of the old and coarser leaves which do not attain a desirable black color in firing, being devoid of sap. The leaf is generally brown, sometimes yellowish in color, the liquor possessing scarcely any strength, usually coarse and rough in flavor, and never of much value at any time.
Fannings—Are composed of the refuse, much broken leaves and dust of all the preceding kinds, and bear the same relation to India teas that Twankays do to Green and Nibs to Japan teas.
Namuna—In Hindostanee literally means “Sample,” being accidentally applied to a class of India tea, possessing great strength and high, peculiar flavor not confined to any particular district or plantation. The dry leaf may have the regular grayish-black hue, or be of a greenish-black color, the green leaves being intermixed and distinct from the black ones. It invariably yields a pale, corn-yellow colored liquor, resembling that of Oolong, heavier and stronger than ordinary Pekoe, and in flavor like a Moyune, yet distinct from the former and not as pungent as the latter. Frequently, however, it is intermingled with a nasty black leaf, the flavor of which is destroyed by over-firing, the green leaves being due to deficient or under-firing.
There are many serious objections to the general use of India teas, one of which is the great excess of tannin (tannic acid) which they contain, ranging from 13 to 18 per cent. in this variety, and to which property tea owes its astringency, constipating effect on the bowels and the ink-black color which it imparts to water containing salts of iron. In England a crusade is being preached against their use by medical authorities on this account, the marked increase in dyspeptic and nervous diseases in that country being attributed to their general consumption there. Some experts argue that by a shorter infusion—sufficiently long to extract the theine with less of the tannin—this serious defect may be eventually remedied. Such, however, is not the case, as experiments made with it at three and five minute infusions have still shown an excess of tannin, in addition to that of making the liquor raw, herby, and entirely unsatisfactory in flavor. The same time-tests resulting in favor of both China and Japan teas, and which, judging by the bitterness and astringency, the amount of tannin yielded by India teas in a five-minute draw is incredible. While China teas, under the same conditions, possesses little or no trace of tannic acid, or offending the most sensitive palate or constitution, but on the contrary being both pleasing and refreshing to the most sensitive natures. Another distinct and dubious feature of India teas is the formation of a gummy or oily film which settles on top of the infusion when drawn, and claimed to be very injurious to the nervous system and digestive organs. When first infused this substance is scarcely discernible, but just as soon as the liquor begins to cool this opaque coating forms and develops on top. It is of an oily, creamy or gummy nature, forming a thin layer of a dull, whitish-brown color, more dense than the liquor and changing to a darker shade as it cools. Its nature or effect has not yet been definitely determined, but sufficient is known to prove that it is particularly unwholesome, for their selection is also more difficult than that of any other variety owing to their well-known tendency to early decay, becoming sour and rancid on short exposure to the oxydizing influences of the atmosphere, the greatest caution having to be exercised in avoiding those that will not keep for any length of time owing to this most objectionable peculiarity, losing flavor quicker and decaying faster than any other kinds, not even excepting low-grade Japans. This loss of flavor and rapid decay is greater in some sorts than in others, the grades most easily affected in this manner being the highly-fired, light-flavored and open-leaf makes.
The demand for India teas in this country is only limited, owing to the present taste of consumers, and there appears little hope of any increase in the future. What little is sold being used chiefly for blending with the softer and more mellow-flavored teas of China; the India grades supplying the absent quality of strength to the latter. Strenuous efforts have and are being made to introduce them, but so far with indifferent success. The character of the liquor after the infusion is so entirely foreign in body, color, flavor and aroma from that of the China and Japan sorts to which the people have been accustomed, and which appears to be an inherited taste, so deeply is it set, that little or no progress can be made in these attempts. The great strength, pungency and pronounced flavor of the choicer grades rendering them valuable only for blending purposes. Still it is difficult to overestimate the importance of India as a source of tea supply. Twenty years ago it furnished only about 10,000,000 pounds to the world’s supply, but so rapidly has its production increased that the crop for 1892 is estimated at 110,000,000 pounds. Its consumption in England is annually increasing, the total deliverance for that year being 103,000,000 pounds as against 99,000,000 pounds for 1890, while for 1889 the increase was upwards of 12,000,000 pounds over that of 1888. These enormous strides in the consumption of India teas in England is only equalled by that of Ceylon teas, the British public demanding strong, dark liquoring teas irrespective of flavor, aroma or effect.