INTRODUCTION INTO EUROPE.
The earliest European notice of Tea is that found in a work by Ramusio, first printed in 1550, though written several years prior to that year. In it he quotes Hazzi Mohamed in effect, “And these people of Cathay (China) do say that if these in our parts of the world only knew of Tea, there is no doubt that our merchants would cease altogether to use Ravino Cini, as they call rhubarb.” Yet no accounts at present accessible establish the date of its first introduction into Europe, and it is also a difficult matter to determine to which of the two nations—Portugal or Holland—the credit of first introducing it belongs. Some writers claiming that the Dutch East India Company brought Tea to Amsterdam in 1600, while the Portuguese claim the honor of its first introduction prior to that year. An indisputable argument in favor of the latter is the notice given of it by Giovani Maffei in his “History of India,” published in 1559. “The inhabitants of China, like those of Japan,” he writes, “extract from an herb called Chia a beverage which they drink warm, and which is extremely wholesome, being a remedy against phlegm, languor and a promoter of longevity.” While Giovani Botero, another Portuguese, in a work published in the same year, states that “the Chinese have an herb from which they press a delicate juice, which they use instead of wine, finding it to be a preservative against these diseases which are produced by the use of wine amongst us.” Taxiera, also a native of Portugal, states that he saw the dried leaves of Tea at Malacca some years prior to 1600, and the article is also mentioned in one of the earliest privileges accorded to the Portuguese for trading in 1558; yet it was not until nearly a century from the beginning of that trade that we find the first distinct account from a European pen of the use of Tea as a beverage.
In a “Dissertation upon Tea, by Thomas Short,” printed in London, in 1730, the author gives the following account of its first introduction into Europe: “The Dutch East India Company on their second voyage to China carried thither a good store of Sage and exchanged it with the Chinese for Tea, receiving three to four pounds of the last for one pound of the first, by calling it a wonderful European herb possessed of as many virtues as the Indians could ascribe to their shrub-leaf. But because they exported not such large quantities of Sage as they imported of Tea they also bought a great deal of the latter, giving eight- to tenpence a pound for it in China. And when they first brought it to Paris they sold it for thirty livres the pound; but thirty years ago the Chinese sold it at threepence, and never above ninepence a pound at any time, frequently mixing it with other herbs to increase the quantity.” Macaulay also states in the history of his embassy to China that “early in the seventeenth century some Dutch adventurers, seeking for such objects as might fetch a price in China, and hearing of a general use there of a beverage produced from a plant of the country, bethought themselves of trying how far a European plant of supposed great virtues might also be appreciated by the Chinese; they accordingly introduced to them the herb Sage, the Dutch accepting in exchange the Chinese Tea, which they brought back with them to Holland.” These statements but tend to confirm the Portuguese claim, the efforts of the Dutch to open up trade with the Chinese in Tea being evidently made many years subsequent to its introduction by the former; in still further support of which the following may be noted:—
In 1662 Charles II. married the Portuguese princess, Catharine of Braganza, who, it is said, was very fond of Tea, having been accustomed to it in her own country. Waller, in a poem celebrating the event, ascribes its first introduction to her country in the appended lines:—
“Venus her myrtle has—Phœbus her bays;
Tea both excels, which she vouchsafes to praise.
The best of Queens and best of herbs we owe
To that proud nation which the way did show.”
The earliest mention made of Tea by an Englishman is that contained in a letter from a Mr. Wickham, agent of the East India Company at Firando, Japan, and dated June 27, 1615, to a Mr. Eaton, another officer of the Company, resident at Macao, China, asking for “a pot of the best Cha.” How the commission was executed does not appear, but in Mr. Eaton’s subsequent account of expenditures occurs this item, “Three silver porringers to drink Tea in.” The first person, however, to advocate the use of Tea in Europe was Cornelius Bottrekoe, a professor of the Leyden University, who, in a treatise on “Tea, Coffee and Chocolate,” published in 1649, strongly pronounces in favor of the former, denying the possibility of its being injurious even when taken in immoderate quantities.
Tea was evidently known in England previous to its direct importation there, small quantities having been brought from Holland as early as 1640, but used only on rare occasions. The earliest mention made of it, however, is that contained in a copy of the “Mercurius Politicus,” at present in the British Museum, and dated September, 1658, in which attention is called to “that excellent, and by all Physitians approved, China drink, called by the Chineans Tcha, by other nations Tay, sold at the Sultaness Head, a Cophee-house by the Royal Exchange, London.” The most famous house for Tea at this early period, however, was Garway’s, more popularly known for upwards of two centuries as “Garraway’s,” being swept away only a few years ago by the march of improvement. Defoe refers to it as being “frequented only by people of quality, who had business in the city and the wealthier citizens”; but later it became the resort of speculators, and here it was that the numerous schemes which surrounded and accompanied the “Great South Sea Bubble” had their centre, and, appropriately enough, “Garraway’s” was also the headquarters of that most remarkable but disastrous Tea speculation of 1842.
A singular handbill issued by its founder is still extant, being discovered by accident in a volume of pamphlets found in the British Museum, where it may still be inspected. Although the document bears no date, there is ample internal evidence to prove that it must have been printed about 1660. It is a quaint and extraordinary production, purporting to be “An exact description of the leaf Tea, made according to the directions of the most knowing merchants and travelers in those Eastern countries, by Thomas Garway,” setting forth that:—
“Tea is generally brought from China, growing there on little shrubs, the branches whereof are garnished with white flowers of the bigness and fashion of sweetbriar, but smell unlike, and bearing green leaves of the bigness of myrtle or sumac, which leaves are gathered every day, the best being gathered by virgins who are destined for the work, the said leaves being of such known virtues that those nations famous for antiquity, knowledge and wisdom do frequently sell it among themselves for twice its weight in silver. That it hath been used only as a regalia in high treatments and entertainments, presents being made thereof to grandees.”
Proceeding at considerable length to enumerate its “virtues,” many of which are decidedly apocryphal, and attributing to the beverage, among its other properties, that of—
“Making the body active and lusty, helping the headache, giddiness and heaviness, removing the difficulty of breathing, clearing the sight, banishing lassitude, strengthening the stomach, causing good appetite and digestion, vanishing heavy dreams, easing the frame, strengthening the memory, and finally preventing consumption, particularly when drank with milk.”
Many other remarkable properties being credited to this wonderful “Chinese herb,” the advertiser closes his great encomiums by suggesting—
“That all persons of eminence and quality, gentlemen, and others who have occasion for tea in the leaf may be supplied. These are to give notice that the said Thomas hath the same to sell from sixteen to fifty shillings the pound.”
If the article had possessed but a tithe of the virtues and excellencies accorded to it by the celebrated Garway it must have been recognized at the time as the coming boon to man.
Up to 1660 no mention is made of Tea in the English statute books, although it is cited in an act of the first parliament of the Restoration of the same year, which imposed a tax of “eightpence on every gallon made and sold, to be paid by the maker thereof.” This was subsequently increased to five shillings per pound in the Leaf, which at the time was stated to be “no small prejudice to the article, as well as an inconvenience to the drinker.” Ever since that year the duty on Tea has been one of the hereditary customs of the Crown, though Parliament has at sundry times, by different acts, fixed divers duties upon it.
Pepys alludes to Tea in his Diary, under date of September 25, 1661, the entry reading: “I did send for a cup of Tee, a China drink, of which I never drank before”; and again, in 1667, he further mentions it. “Home, and there find my wife making of Tee, a drink which Mr. Pelling, the Potticary, says is good for her cold.” But that it still must have continued rare, is very evident, as in 1664, it is recorded that the East India Company made the king what was then considered “a brilliant present of 2 lbs. of Tea, costing forty shillings,” and two years later another present of 22 lbs., both parcels being purchased on the Continent for the purpose.
It was not until 1668 that the East India Company is credited with the direct importation of Tea into England, which, although chartered in 1600, for the first time considered Tea worthy their attention as an article of trade. The order sent to their agents in that year was: “for 100 lbs. of the best Tey they could procure to the amount of £25 sterling.” Their instructions must, however, have been considerably exceeded, as the quantity received was 4,713 lbs., a supply which seems to have “glutted the market” for several years after. Up to this time no alarm had been excited that the use of Tea was putting in peril the stalwarthood of the British race. But in the very year of this large importation we find Saville writing to his uncle Coventry, in sharp reproof of certain friends of his “who call for Tea, instead of pipes and wine,” stigmatizing its use as “a base, unworthy Indian practice,” and adding, with an audible sigh, “the truth is, all nations are getting so wicked as to have some of those filthy customs.” Whether from sympathy of the public with these indignant reprehensions or other causes, the whole recorded imports for the six following years amounted to only 410 lbs., the quantities imported continuing small and consisting exclusively of the finer sorts for several years thereafter.
The first considerable shipment of tea reached London about 1695, from which year the imports steadily and rapidly increased until the end of the seventeenth century, when the annual importations averaged 20,000 pounds. In 1703 orders were sent from England to China for 85,000 pounds of Green Tea and 25,000 pounds of Black, the average price at this period ranging from 16 to 20 shillings ($4 to $5) per pound. The Company’s official account of their trade did not commence before 1725, but according to Milburn’s “Oriental Commerce” the consumption in the year 1711 had increased to upwards of 142 million pounds, in 1711 to 121 millions, and in 1720 to 238 million pounds. Since which time there has been nothing in the history of commerce so remarkable as the growth and development of the trade in Tea, becoming, as it has, one of the most important articles of foreign production consumed.
For above a century and a half the sole object of the English East India Company’s trade with China was to furnish Tea for consumption in England, the Company during that period enjoying a monopoly of the Tea trade to the exclusion of all other parties. They were bound, however, “to send orders for Tea from time to time, provide ships for its transportation, and always to keep at least one year’s supply in their warehouses,” being also compelled to “bring all Teas to London, and there offer them at public sale quarterly, and to dispose of them at one penny per pound advance on the gross cost of importation, the price being determined by adding their prime cost in China to the expenses of freight, insurance, interest on capital invested, and other charges.” But in December, 1680, Thomas Eagle of the “King’s Head,” a noted coffee-house in St. James, inserted in the London Gazette the following advertisement, which shows that Tea continued to be imported independently of the East India Company: “These are to give notice to persons of quality that a small parcel of most excellent Tea has, by accident, fallen into the hands of a private person to be sold. But that none may be disappointed, the lowest price is 30 shillings in the pound, and not any to be sold under a pound in weight.” The persons of quality were also requested to bring a convenient box with them to hold it.
The East India Company enjoyed a monopoly of the trade in Tea up to 1834, when, owing to the methods of calculation adopted by the Company, and the heavier expenses which always attend every department of a trade monopoly, the prices were greatly enhanced. Much dissatisfaction prevailing with its management, this system of importing Teas was abolished, the Company being deprived of its exclusive privileges, and the Tea trade thrown open to all.
In all probability Tea first reached America from England, which country began to export in 1711, but it is claimed to have been previously introduced by some Dutch smugglers, no definite date being given. The first American ship sailed for China in 1784, two more vessels being dispatched the following year, bringing back 880,000 pounds of Tea. During 1786-87, five other ships brought to the United States over 1,000,000 pounds. In 1844, the “Howqua” and “Montauk” were built expressly for the Tea trade, being the first of the class of vessels known as “Clippers,” in which speed was sought at the expense of carrying capacity, and by which the average passage was reduced from twenty to thirty days for the round trip. The trade in tea was entirely transacted at Canton until 1842, when the ports of Shanghai, Amoy and Foochow were opened by the treaty of Nankin, the China tea trade being mainly conducted at the latter ports. As late as 1850, all vessels trading in tea carried considerable armament, a necessary precaution against the pirates who swarmed in the China seas during the first half of the last century.
The progress of this famous plant has been something like the progress of Truth, suspected at first, though very palatable to those who had the courage to taste it, resisted as it encroached, and abused as its use spread, but establishing its triumph at last in cheering the world, from palace to cottage, by the resistless effect of time and its own virtues only; becoming a beverage appreciated by all, as well as an agent of progress and civilization.
TEA
AND
AMERICAN INDEPENDENCE.
Although Tea may be claimed to be in all its associations eminently peaceful, growing as it does on the hill-sides of one of the most peaceful countries in the world, coming to us through the peace-promoting ways of commerce, until it reaches its ultimate destination, that centre of peace—the family table—and like peaceful sleep, “knitting up the raveled sleeve of care,” yet it has been the occasion of several wars and political problems, the latest of which is the precipitation of the great Chinese exodus, which at present threatens such vital results, not only to our own country, but possibly to the world at large.
It was destined—as in all social and political affairs, the greatest and most important events are curiously linked with the smallest and most insignificant—to be the final crisis of the American Revolutionary movement. Think of it! The birth of the greatest nation of all time due to a three-penny tax on tea! It was the article chosen above all others to emphasize the principles that “all men are born free and equal,” and that “taxation without representation is tyranny,” and for the establishment of which principles a war was fought, that when judged by the law of results, proves to have been the most important and fruitful recorded on history’s pages. Who, in looking back over the long range of events conserving to create our now great country, can fail to have his attention attracted to what has been termed, with a characteristic touch of American humor, “The Boston Tea Party of 1773”? Who could have then predicted the marvelous change that a single century of free government would have wrought? Who could have dreamed that Tea would have proved such an important factor in such a grand result? What a lesson to despotic governments! A dreary November evening; a pier crowded with excited citizens; a few ships in the harbor bearing a hated cargo—hated not of itself, but for the principles involved; on the decks a mere handful of young men—a few leaders in Israel—urged on by the fiery prescience of genius, constituting themselves an advance guard to lead the people from out the labyrinth of Remonstrance into the wilderness of Revolution.
It is true that previously other questions had been factors in the dispute, but a cursory glance at the history of the time will show that heated debates had been followed by periods of rest, and acts of violence by renewed loyalty. The “Navigation laws” had caused much indignation and many protests, but no violence to mention. As early as 1768 the famous “Stamp Act” was passed and repealed. The period intervening between its passage and repeal gave opportunity for public opinion to crystallize and shape itself. It sifted out of the people a modern Demosthenes, gifted with the divine power of draping the graceful garment of language round the firm body of an IDEA! George III. would not profit by the example of Cæsar or of Charles, and while North had avowed his willingness to repeal the tax on all other articles, he promised the king that “he would maintain this one tax on Tea to prove to the Colonists his right to tax.”
The trade in Tea at this time was a monopoly of the English East India Company, which just then had acquired an immense political prestige, but lost heavily by the closing of the American market, the Company’s warehouses in London remaining full of it, causing their revenue to decline. North was induced to offer them a measure of relief by releasing from taxation in England the Tea intended for America, but he still persisted in maintaining the duty of threepence to be paid in American ports, and on the 10th of May this farcical scheme of fiscal readjustment became a law. The Company obtained a license for the free-duty exportation of their Tea to America in disregard of the advice of those who knew that the Colonists would not receive it. Four ships laden with Tea were despatched to the ports of Boston, New York, Philadelphia and Charleston. The Colonists prepared for their expected arrival, public meetings being held in Philadelphia and Boston, at which it was resolved that the Tea should be sent back to England, and so notified the Company’s agents at these ports. The Boston consignees refused to comply with the popular demand, all persuasion failing to move them. The matter was then referred to the Committees, who immediately resolved to use force where reason was not heeded. When the vessels arrived, a meeting was held in the Old South Church, at which it was resolved, “come what will, the Tea should not be landed or the duty paid.” Another appeal was made to the Governor, which was also denied! Upon this announcement Samuel Adams arose, saying, “This meeting can do nothing more to save the country.” The utterance of these words was a preconcerted signal; the response, an Indian war-whoop from the crowd outside. A band of young men, not over fifty, disguised as, and styling themselves, “Mohawks,” rushed down to the wharf where the vessels lay; the ships were boarded, the Tea chests broken open and emptied into the river. From the moment that the first Tea-leaf touched the water the whole atmosphere surrounding the issues involved changed! In that instant, with the rapidity of thought, the Colonies vanished and America arose!
When the news of these proceedings reached England, it provoked a storm of anger, not only among the adherents of the government, but also among the mercantile and manufacturing classes, they having suffered heavy losses by the stoppage of trade with America. The commercial importance and parliamentary influence of the East India Company swelled the outcry of indignation against which they termed the outrage of destroying its property. All united in the resolve to punish the conduct of Boston for its rejection of the least onerous one of an import duty on tea. What followed has been told in song and story—Lexington and Concord, Bunker Hill, Valley Forge and Yorktown. A new nation sprang into existence, taking its stand upon the pedestal of “EQUAL RIGHTS FOR ALL,” under a new government “OF THE PEOPLE, FOR THE PEOPLE, BY THE PEOPLE.”
CHAPTER II.
GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION.
Besides the character of the different varieties of tea and other information connected with the plant and its product, we have to notice the different parts of the world in which it is now or may be grown in the future, as many practical questions of considerable importance are dependent on the subject.
For upwards of two centuries and a half the world’s supply of tea was furnished exclusively by China, and it was not until well into the middle of the nineteenth century that China and Japan were the only two tea-producing countries in the world, their product reaching the western markets through the narrowest channels and under the most oppressive restrictions. Its cultivation however, has in that time been extended to other countries, most notably into Java, India and Ceylon.
Tea is more or less cultivated for local consumption in all the provinces of China, except the extreme northern. But to what exact degree of latitude it is difficult to be precise, as we are without definite information from those regions, and the vast empire of China not being sufficiently explored by botanists to warrant the assertion that the plant is not to be found in other parts of the country, at least in a wild state. So far, however, it has not been discovered there, except in a state of cultivation, or as having evidently escaped from cultivation on roadsides or other out-of-the-way places.
We know that it is cultivated in Tonquin and Yunnan, but only to a limited extent, the product of these provinces being also of a very inferior quality. It is grown in Cochin-China and the mountain ranges of Ava, but only for local consumption, and that, while it is indigenous to the mountains, separating China from Burmah, it is not cultivated there for either export or profit, and although claimed by some authorities to be grown all over the Chinese empire, its cultivation for commercial purposes is confined to the region lying between the 24th and 35th degrees of north latitude, the climate between these parallels varying to a considerable extent, being much warmer in the southern than in the northern provinces. The districts in which it is chiefly cultivated, however, and from which it is principally exported, are embraced in the southwestern provinces of Che-kiang, Fo-kien, Kiang-see, Kiang-nan, Gan-hwuy Kwang-tung, some little being also produced for export in the western province of Sze-chuan.
It is cultivated for commercial purposes all over the Japanese islands, from Kiusiu, in the south, to Niphon, in the extreme north, but the zone found most favorable to its most profitable production in these islands is that lying between the 30th and 35th degrees, more especially in the coast provinces of the interior sea. It is also grown to some extent in Corea, from which country—although claimed by some to be the original country of tea—none is ever exported.
In the year 1826 some tea seeds were sent from Japan to Java and planted as an experiment in the residency of Buitenzorg, where they were found to succeed so well that tea-culture was immediately commenced on an extensive scale in the adjoining residencies of Cheribon, Preanger and Krawang, the number of tea trees in the former district amounting to over 50,000 in 1833. The several other districts of the island to which it had been extended, now containing upwards of 20,000,000 trees from which over 20,000,000 pounds of prepared tea are annually delivered to commerce, tea-culture forming one of the chief industries of the island at the present day.
A species of the tea plant has been found growing in a truly wild state in the mountain ranges of Hindostan, particularly on those bordering on the Chinese province of Yunnan, from which fact it is claimed by some writers as probable that these mountains are the original home of tea. Recent explorations also show that the tea plant is to be found growing wild in the forests of Assam, Sylhet and the Himalaya hills, as well as over the great range of mountains extending thence through China to the Yang-tse river. At an early period the British East India Company, as the principal trade intermediary between China and Europe, became deeply interested in the question of tea cultivation in their eastern possessions, but without much success until in 1840, when the Assam Tea Company was formed, from which year the successful cultivation of tea in India has been carried on, the tea districts of that country including at the present time, in the order of their priority, Assam, Dehradun, Kumaon, Darjeeling, Cachar, Kangra, Hazarila, Chittagong, Burmah, Neilgherry and Travancore.
Various efforts were made to introduce tea-culture into Ceylon, under both Dutch and British rule, no permanent success being attained until about 1876, when the disastrous effects of the coffee-leaf disease induced the planters to give more serious attention to tea. Since that period tea cultivation has developed there with marvelous rapidity, having every prospect at the present time of taking first rank among Ceylon productions.
Dr. Abel highly recommends the Cape of Good Hope as furnishing a fitting soil and climate for the beneficial production of tea, stating that “there is nothing improbable in a plant that is so widely diffused from north to south being grown there.” Tea of average quality being now shipped from Natal to the London market.
Besides Java, India and Ceylon, where tea culture has been introduced and profitably demonstrated, numerous attempts have and are being made to colonize the plant in other countries than these of the East, but beyond the countries above enumerated, the industry has so far never taken root, for while the cultivated varieties of the tea-plant are comparatively hardy, possessing an adaptability to climate excelled alone among plants only by that of wheat, the limits of actual tea cultivation extend from the 39th degree of north latitude in Japan, through the tropics to Java, Ceylon, India and China, and while it will live in the open air in many of the countries into which it has been introduced and withstand some amount of frost when it receives sufficient summer heat to harden its root, but comparatively few of those regions are suited for practical tea-growing.
As far back as 1872, some tea plants were sent from China to the Kew gardens in England, for the purpose of testing the possibility of its growth in that country. The attempt, however, ended in failure, the seeds never germinating, later efforts under more careful training meeting with the same fate. Considerable success attended its introduction into the islands of Bourbon and Mauritius, in 1844, the tea produced being pronounced as “excellent in flavor, but lacking in that strength and aroma so characteristic of the Chinese variety.”
Its cultivation has been recently attempted in the Philippines by the Spanish, in Sumatra and Borneo by the Dutch, and by the French in Cochin-China, nearly all of which experiments so far proving failures, the only success reported being from the latter country, where the soil is good and moisture equable. Tea plantations have also been lately opened up in Malay, Singapore, and other of the Straits settlements by the English; some teas of fair quality, but insufficient quantity, having already produced in many of them. Its cultivation forms one of the industries of the Fiji islands at the present time; the soil and climate of the latter being found eminently adapted to its successful propagation, land and labor, the chief difficulties in other countries, being particularly available there. Extraordinary efforts are now also being made to introduce the plant into the warmer parts of Australia.
Some ten years ago specimens of the Chinese tea-plant were introduced into the Azores, where they soon became acclimated, expert Chinese tea-makers being sent there specially a few years later to teach the natives how to manipulate the leaves. The industry has made such rapid progress there that regular shipments of “Madeira tea” are now being made to the London market, where it is affirmed that in strength and flavor it closely approaches that of China tea. But while it has been found to flourish luxuriantly on the hilly parts of St. Helena, the quantity and quality are insufficient to justify its cultivation for either profit or export on that island.
The Economic Society of St. Petersburg warmly advocates its cultivation in the Caucasus, while French and German naturalists declare that there is no region more suitable for the profitable cultivation of tea than the shores of the Black Sea, the climate being warm, moist and equable, and tea of more than average quality have already been produced between Batoum and Kiel, samples of which were exhibited at the exhibition recently held in Tiflis, the report on which was so encouraging that the society ventures the opinion “that in time Russia may compete with China and India in supplying the Western nations with tea.” Efforts are also being made to introduce it into southern Italy, but while the soil and climate of those countries may be found admirably adapted for the purpose, there is no skilled labor to prepare it properly.
The cultivation of tea was attempted in the warmer parts of Brazil in 1850, some tea of very fair quality being produced in the vicinity of Rio Janeiro, and while the plant was found to flourish exceedingly well in the adjoining province of Sao Paolo, the tea when prepared for use was found to be entirely too bitter and astringent for practical purposes. The lack of skilled labor and high cost of manufacture preventing its cultivation for profit, it was inferred that with everything else in its favor, tea as produced in Brazil would never be able to compete with that of China even for home consumption.
Some few years since plantations were opened for the cultivation of tea in Mexico, Guatemala, and in some of the West India islands, but to the present no reports favorable or otherwise, have been received regarding its progress in these countries. Still, in the face of all drawbacks, with the example of the many failures and final success achieved in India and Ceylon, much may yet be accomplished in Brazil and other South American countries by intelligent cultivation, modern machinery and perseverance in solving the problem of growing at least their own tea.
With regard to the efforts to introduce the tea-plant into the United States, the earliest notice which comes under observation is that contained in the Southern Agriculturist, published in 1828, and in which it is stated that “the tea-tree grows perfectly in the open air near Charleston, where it has been raised for the past fifteen years, in the nursery of M. Noisette. But as imported from China it would cost too much to prepare for commercial use.” Another historical effort was that made in 1848, by Dr. James Smith, at Greenville, S. C., but although commenced with great enthusiasm the plantation never was increased to any appreciable extent. Neither was it brought to a condition, as far as can be ascertained, to warrant the formation of any reliable opinion as to the practicability of tea-culture in this country as an industry. Nevertheless, the circumstances of its failure are quoted as a proof that tea cannot be produced for commercial purposes or even for home consumption in this country. While the truth is that as a test for the purposes named, the attempt was of no value whatever, and never was so considered by those conversant with its cultivation or management.
But while the plant barely survives the winter north of Washington, it has been found to thrive successfully a little south of that district. It bears fruit abundantly on the Pacific coast, where the soil and climate are especially favorable to the growth of broad-leaved evergreens, both native and exotic, and will flourish much further north there than in the Eastern states.
Still the progress of these efforts to grow tea in other countries than China, Japan and India, must necessarily prove interesting as being calculated to make the world more independent of these countries for its supplies. Yet it is an established fact that the finest varieties of tea are best cultivated in the warmer latitudes and on sites most exposed to air and sunshine.
CHAPTER III.
BOTANICAL CHARACTERISTICS AND FORM.
There are few subjects in the vegetable kingdom that have attracted such a large share of public notice as the tea plant. Much error for a long time existed regarding its botanical classification, owing to the jealousy of the Chinese government preventing foreigners from visiting the districts where tea was cultivated; while the information derived from the Chinese merchants at the shipping ports, scanty as it was, could not be depended on with any certainty. So that before proceeding to discuss the question of the species which yield the teas of commerce it may be well to notice those which are usually described as distinct varieties in systematic works.
Tea is differently named in the various provinces of China where it is grown. In some it is called Tcha or Cha, in others Tha or Thea, in Canton Tscha, and finally Tia by the inhabitants of Fo-kien, from whom the first cargoes are said to have been obtained, and so pronounced in their patois as to give rise to the European name Tea. By botanists it is termed Thea, this last name being adopted by Linnæus for the sake of its Greek orthography, being exactly that of Oex—a goddess—a coincidence doubtless quite acceptable to those who use and enjoy the beverage as it deserves.
The species of the genus Thea are few in number, some botanists being of opinion that even these are of a single kind—Camillia—and is by them classed as Thea-Camillia. Others asserting that no relation whatever exists between these two plants, maintaining that the Thea and Camillia are widely different and of a distinct species. Yet, though the Camillia bears the same name among the Chinese as Thea and possesses many of its structural characteristics, distinctions are made between them by many eminent botanists, who hold that they differ widely and materially and are mostly agreed in the statement that the true Tea-plant is distinguished from the Camillia in having longer, narrower, thinner, more serrated and less shiny leaves, and that a marked difference is also noticeable in the form and contents of the fruit or pod.
Davis argues that they constitute two genera, closely allied but yet different, the distinctions consisting principally in the fruit or seed. The seed-vessel of the Thea being a three-lobed capsule, with the lobes strongly marked, each the size of a currant, containing only a single round seed, the lobes bursting vertically in the middle when ripe, exposing the seed. The capsule of the Camillia is triangular in shape, much larger in size, and though three-celled is but single-seeded. Bentham and Hooker, who have thoroughly revised the “genera plantatum,” say they can find no good reason by which they can separate the Tea-plant as a genus distinct from the Camillia, and so class it as Thea-Camillia. While Cambesedes contends that they are widely separated by several intervening genera, the difference being entirely in the form of the fruit or pod; and Griffin, who is well qualified to form a correct opinion, states that, from an examination of the India Tea-plant and two species of the Camillia taken from the Kyosa hills, he found no difference whatever. The dehiscence in both plants is of the same nature, the only noticeable difference really existing being of a simply specific value. The fruit of the Tea-shrub is three-celled and three-seeded while that of the Camillia is triangular in form and single-seeded only.
Linnæus, while recognizing the Tea-plant as belonging to the same family as the Camillia, Latinizes its Chinese name, classing it as Thea Sinensis, and dividing it into two species—Thea Viridis and Thea Bohea; DeCandolle, while indorsing Linnæus’ classification, adds that “in the eighteenth century when the shrub which produces tea was little known Linnæus named the genus Thea Sinensis, but later judged it better to distinguish two species which he believed at the time to correspond with the distinctions existing between the Green and Black teas of commerce.” The latest works on botany, also, make Thea a distinct genus—Thea Sinensis—divided into two species—Thea Viridis and Thea Bohea—these botanical terms having no specific relation to the varieties known to commerce as Green and Black teas. It having also been proven that there is but one species comprehending both varieties, the difference in color and character being due to a variation in the soil, climate, as well as to different methods of cultivation and curing, from either or both of which Green or Black tea may be prepared at will according to the process of manufacture.
Thea Sinensis.
(Chinese Tea Plant.)
In a wild state is large and bushy, ranging in height from ten to fifteen feet, often assuming the proportions of a small tree. While in a state of cultivation its growth is limited by frequent prunings to from three to five feet, forming a polyandrous, shrub evergreen with bushy stem and numerous leafy branches. The leaves are alternate, large, elliptical and obtusely serrated, varied and placed in smooth short-channeled foot-stalks, the calyx being small, and divided into five segments. The flowers are white, axilary and slightly fragrant, often three together in separate pedicils, the corolla having from five to nine petals, cohering at the base with filaments numerous and inverted at the base of the corolla. The anthers are large, yellow and tre-foil, the capsule three-celled and three-seeded; and like all other plants in a state of cultivation, it has produced marked varieties, two of which Thea Viridis and Thea Bohea are critically described as distinct species, distinguished from each other in size, color, form and texture of the leaves, as well as other peculiarities.
a—Gunpowder. b—Young Hyson. c—Imperial. d—Hyson. e—Twankay.
Thea Viridis,
(Green Tea Plant),
Is a large, hardy, strong-growing shrub, with spreading branches and leaves one to two inches long, thin, weavy and almost membraneous, broadly lanceolate, but irregularly serrated and light-green in color. The flowers are large, white, solitary and mostly confined to the upper axil, having five sepals and seven petals, the fruit or pod being purple, nodding and three-seeded. It thrives without protection in the open air during winter, and is undoubtedly the species yielding the bulk of the Green teas of commerce.
a—Firsts. b—Seconds. c—Thirds. d—Fourths.
Thea Bohea,
(Black Tea Plant),
Is a much smaller variety, with branches stiff, straight and erect, the leaves are also smaller, flat, oblong and coriaceous, but evenly serrated and dark-green in color. The flowers or blossoms are usually two to three, situated at the axils, having from five to seven sepals and petals, and possessing a slight fragrance. It is more tender and prolific than the green variety, not standing near as cold a climate, and yields the Black teas of commerce principally.
Considerable mystery and confusion for a long time existed regarding the species yielding the varieties known to commerce as Green and Black teas, many authorities claiming that the former were produced from the green tea-plant exclusively, and the latter solely from the black tea variety. While, again, it was erroneously held by others that both were prepared at will from a single species, the difference in color, flavor and effect was due entirely to a disparity in soil, climate, age and process of curing; also, that Green teas were produced from plants cultivated on the plains or low lands, in a soil enriched with manure, and Black teas from those grown on hill sides and mountain slopes. Later and more careful investigation disprove these “opinions,” the eminent botanical traveler, Robert Fortune, having satisfactorily and definitely set this much-vexed question at rest by examining the subject on the spot, finding that in the district of Woo-e-shan, where Black teas are principally prepared, the species Bohea only is grown; and that in the province of Che-kiang, where Green teas are exclusively prepared, he found the species Viridis alone cultivated. But that the Green and Black teas of commerce may be produced at will from either or both species he found to be the case in the province of Fo-kien, where the black tea-plant only is grown, but that both the commercial varieties were prepared therefrom at the pleasure of the manufacturer and according to the demand. Yet while it is admitted now even by the Chinese themselves, that both varieties may be prepared at will from either species, it is a popular error to imagine that China produces the two commercial kinds in all districts, the preparation of the greater proportion of the respective varieties being carried on in widely separated districts of the empire, and from the corresponding species of the tea-plant, different methods being pursued in the process of curing; from the first stage, Green teas being only distinguished from Black in such instances by the fact that, the former are not fermented or torrified as high by excessive heat, or fired as often as the latter.
It was also a commonly received opinion at one time that the distinctive color of Green teas was imparted to them by being fired in copper pans. For this belief there is not the slightest foundation in fact, as copper is never used for the purpose, repeated experiments by unerring tests having been made, but in not a single case has any trace of the metal been detected.
a—Pekoe. b—Souchong. c—Congou. d—Souchong-Congou.
Thea Assamensis,
(India Tea Plant),
Which has lately attracted so much attention, partakes somewhat of the character of both the foregoing varieties. Some botanists, however, claim that it is a distinct species, while others who recognize but one genus, contend that the India plant is but a wild type of the Chinese variety, and that any difference existing between them is the result of soil, climate and special culture. Planters on the other hand distinguish many points of difference between the China and India tea-plants. The leaf of the latter when full grown measures from three to five inches in length, while that of the former seldom exceeds three; again, the leaf of the India species does not harden as quickly during growth, which is an important consideration in picking. The inflorescence of the latter also varies from that of the Chinese variety, its usual state being to have the flower solitary, and situated in the axils of the leaves, the number varying from one to five. In general, it is more prolific and matures quicker, which renders it more profitable, as it affords a greater number of pickings during the season; but it is still doubtful if it is a true tea. In its geographical distribution, so far as latitude is concerned, the India tea-plant approximates most to the Black tea species of China, yet in its botanical characteristics and general appearance as well as in the size and texture of its leaves, it approaches nearer to the Green tea variety.
Two other species described by Loureiro, but unknown to commerce, are classed as Thea Cochinchinensis, found in a wild state in the north of Cochin-China, where it is also extensively cultivated, but used medicinally by the natives as a diaphoretic. And Thea Oleosa (oil tea), grown in the vicinity of Canton, the seeds of which yield an oil used for illuminating purposes as well as an article of diet by the inhabitants. In addition to these there are also two doubtful species, known as Cankrosa and Candata, referred to by Wallach, as growing in Silhet and Nepaul.