TEA-BLENDING AS A FINE ART.
Comparatively little is known of the art or principle of mixing or blending of teas in this country, American dealers and consumers alike being averse to the practice, regarding it as about on a parity with other methods of sophistication. Such objections are entirely erroneous, as it is an acknowledged principle that a combination of different varieties of wheat make better flour, the same being true of coffees and other articles of diet. So that the practice of blending teas, if properly understood and skillfully performed, would prove a more satisfactory and profitable one to both consumer and dealer. The object is not, as the public may imagine, to lower the quality or reduce the cost to the dealer, but simply to produce better tea and obtain a finer and more desirable flavor than that yielded by any single variety, one giving better satisfaction to the consumer at a more moderate price and at the same time allowing a larger margin of profit to the dealer. As an illustration, a dealer may be selling a tea possessing a suitable flavor, but be lacking in body or light in liquor, whereas, by adding to it one or two other teas possessing these qualities the defect is rectified and a full-flavored heavy-bodied tea is produced and the two latter also improved. It follows then that by the judicious blending or mixing of three to five teas, differing in variety and grade, a more uniform and pleasing tea, heavier in body, richer in liquor and flavor can be obtained by this principle at a more moderate cost.
The idea of blending teas originally arose from the experience incidentally gained that a beverage more pleasing, satisfactory and less costly, could be produced from a number of different varieties and grades judiciously and scientifically combined, than could otherwise be obtained from any single sort when used alone. No sooner was this experience confirmed than “mixing” or blending of teas was generally resorted to by many of those who had the dispensing of the article to the public. Some dealers had marked success in this branch of the business, while others again who attempted it failed completely in their efforts to produce any satisfactory results, the end accomplished being, instead of an improvement, an injury to the quality and value of the tea combined, often to such an extent that ordinary plain teas would have pleased better at less labor and cost. The cause of this failure was due alone to the want of that necessary training and experience which would enable the dealer to understand the characteristics and affinities of both the teas which are improved and those which are deteriorated by blending together. The knowledge and skill required for this particular branch of the tea business is only attained in perfection by numerous tests and constant experiments which are performed by mixing from two to five or more samples of tea, differing in variety, character and quality, alternately changing, altering and substituting them until the dealer has succeeded in producing a tea unique in character, the body, flavor and aroma of which will prove more pleasing and satisfactory to a majority of his patrons, at a more moderate cost, identified with himself and differing in every respect from that of any tea offered by his competitors. And after he has succeeded in his efforts he must be careful to keep it as uniform as possible, never allowing even his employees to know of what teas his combination is formed. By following these precautions he becomes noted for keeping a tea that cannot be secured elsewhere and one which, after his customers become once educated to that especial flavor, will not be satisfied with any other.
“The world moves” and the American tea dealer should move with it, as time and experience has proved beyond dispute that skilful and judicious Tea-blending will be found to amply repay the study and labor bestowed on it. The chief and only difficulty existing in the art lays in first finding a combination that will please a majority of your customers. The primary object and fundamental principle should be to obtain in a consolidated form, harmony, strength, pungency, flavor and piquancy and at the same time to effect these results with the smallest possible outlay. To accomplish these results three important points must be carefully studied: First, to learn the taste of your customers; second, to ascertain what teas combine best to suit this taste; third, to find out to what extent the component parts of a once adopted and satisfactory blend may be varied in case of difficulty to secure the same kind of teas for future use. These results can be best secured only by proper selecting, weighing, regulating and arranging the proportionate quantities and different qualities in such a manner as to obtain the best results at the smallest possible outlay. So that before proceeding to produce a specific blend or mixture the dealer must consider well the descriptions which will combine satisfactorily and these that will not unite harmoniously, as teas that are not improved are certain to be deteriorated by blending.
The chief art in successful tea-blending is to combine body, strength and some particular and distinct flavor in one, so as to please the majority of that portion of the public for whom the tea is prepared, and at the same time so arrange its constituent parts in such a manner that this desirable result may be obtained at the smallest possible outlay. To satisfactorily accomplish this object the dealer must first learn to understand thoroughly the taste of those for whom the tea is intended, and secondly, to study what teas will combine best to please their taste, as well as to know how far the component parts of the blend can be varied without seriously affecting its regularity so that advantage may be taken of the cheapness of any special variety or grade of tea. The importance of retaining the uniformity of a blend, when once a satisfactory combination has been discovered, must also not be overlooked. Other combinations may be as good, or better, their component parts skilfully arranged and properly mixed, but unless one standard blend is decided on, and then sedulously maintained, fault will be found and customers go elsewhere. This difficulty is best avoided by paying proper attention to the selection of the teas constituting the blend, having each sample matched as close as possible before purchasing, as well as by not changing more than one of the teas composing the blend at a time when it is the intention to alter the character of the tea. When a large number of teas are used in the formation of a blend, the alteration of any—provided that a particular one is fairly matched—will effect but a comparatively slight variation in its general character. But, if more than one change is to be made let it be done by degrees, for, if the changes in the various teas forming the blend are made gradually, few, if any, will detect the alteration.
The proper Blending of tea is an art that cannot be correctly taught in books or easily learned, it must be acquired by study, experiment and experience alone. Like all other knowledge there is “no royal road to it” the dealer must endeavor to learn himself, to understand the flavors, characters and affinities of the teas that will be either improved or deteriorated by combination, as no absolute rule can be substituted for the practical knowledge so acquired. In the proper blending of teas it is essential also that all combinations should be judiciously and thoroughly mixed together, the leaves of the component parts being selected with due regard to size, color and uniformity and broken as little as possible so that all may harmonize well together. It is a serious mistake to imagine that the successful or profitable blending of tea consists solely of an indiscriminate or injudicious heaping together carelessly and indifferently of two or more varieties of tea in one homogeneous mass without the least regard to quantities, qualities, affinities, affiliations or assimilations of leaf, liquor, character or flavor of the component parts. On the contrary, the art consists in combining the two or more different varieties or grades of tea forming the combination in an intelligent, judicious and scientific manner so as to yield an unique and particular tea of uniform quality, strength, flavor and pungency at a given price, pleasing and satisfactory to the greatest number and maintaining its standard at all times and under all circumstances.
But while it is admitted that it is next to impossible to understand tea-blending thoroughly without an apprenticeship to the business and that the combinations that may be formed from it are almost kaleidoscopic in their range, requiring a separate work. Still, even a novice need not spoil good tea by injudicious mixing, as a little study and a few simple rules carefully followed, although they cannot be substituted for years of experience in such a difficult branch, will prevent any serious error and ensure a fair measure of success. It must be understood at the outset that all combinations of tea, as a rule, must depend upon the character, flavor and grade of the tea most in demand in the section or neighborhood of the dealer, that particular variety forming the base or foundation of the blends prepared, that is, it must dominate the combination. To illustrate, if Oolongs be most in demand, the blend must be composed of from one-half to two-thirds Oolong, and so on with Congous, Greens, Japans or India sorts, as the case may be. Before proceeding to describe any particular blends it will be necessary to name the descriptions of tea that will not combine satisfactorily, as well as those which will amalgamate most harmoniously with each other. The former are described first, because teas not improved are certain to be deteriorated by blending. One of the first and fundamental rules in tea-blending is not to allow unclean or tainted tea, even in small quantities, to be introduced into any combination, which rule should be as rigidly adhered to in the low-priced blends as well in the higher grades, so that all “weedy,” “herby” and “wild” flavored Oolongs should be eschewed in blending.
In this country, where the taste for Oolong and Japan teas appear to be an inherited one, and where there is every prospect of their continuing to be the favorite teas with American consumers for all time to come, the best results are to be obtained from combinations formed of these varieties. Ripe, juicy and succulent “first crop” Foochows make the best foundation for all blends in this country. First-crop Formosas losing their fragrance almost as rapidly as Japans. Third-crop, or “Autumn-leaf” Formosas that have been well-fired, and which, unlike most other varieties, improve rather than deteriorate with time, becoming more “mellow” for at least the first year after arrival, rank next for this purpose, the action of the atmosphere in exposure bringing out their fragrance more fully, and at the same time causing their high-toast or burnt flavor to disappear. Bold-leaf, sweet-drawing Amoys; dark-leaved, full-liquoring Foochows, and large-leaf “nosey” Formosas and thick, sweet, “fruity” Congous make the best foundation for all tea blends, and for the purpose of imparting a rich fragrance to any combination a choice or “pekoed” Formosa will be found the most desirable and valuable, its high character and great piquancy being possessed by no other variety grown. A small quantity of a really choice or even tolerably good Formosa tea will penetrate and dominate a blend, making itself felt and tasting through it. Its value consisting in its delicate “cow-slip” aroma and great piquancy, mellowing the liquor and giving a rich “bouquet” to the infusion. It is also a tea that when once tea-drinkers become educated or attached to its matchless qualities are ever after hard to please with any other.
Low-grade and artificially-colored Pan-fired Japans, owing to their usually “brassy” or “fishy” flavor, and well-known tendency to early decay, which has a highly detrimental effect on the other teas should be avoided, while new, “mealy,” Basket-fired Japans are especially adapted for all Black tea blends, as they impart a peculiarly rich color and tone to the liquor and a very pleasing mellowness to the flavor of the combination, but should never form the base of the blend. “Old,” “musty,” “mousey,” or “smoky” Congous, too “high-fired” and excessively “tarry” Souchongs should also be avoided altogether, as they invariably detract from or destroy the flavor and aroma of the finer kinds used in the blend, their deleterious effects being felt through the entire combination, and all “dusty” and “stemmy” teas in particular, for while some tea-drinkers will bear with a small quantity of these most objectionable features in tea, the vast majority will protest, as it is next to impossible to prevent dust and stems from finding their way into the tea-cup.
The appended formulas are not given with the intention of laying down any fixed or positive rules, but simply as suggesting a code that may be useful to those who are compelled to blend tea without ever having an opportunity of thoroughly mastering the art. Only two to five varieties, at current prices, are used, in order to illustrate the principle more simply, as more complex combinations should not be attempted until the dealer has acquired that practical knowledge attained only by experiment and experience.
SPECIMEN BLACK TEA BLENDS.
1. (Low-priced)—Suitable for restaurant and general trade where a cheap, heavy-bodied and strong-flavored tea is the main consideration. Base 10 pounds Amoy Oolong at 20 cents, 2 pounds Oonfa or other dark-leaved Congou at 20 cents. Average cost 20 cents. In the Oolong forming this blend a little coarseness may be tolerated, but “herby” and “weedy” teas must be avoided, as what strength is needed is supplied by the Congou, which must be free from any suspicion of oldness. The color of the leaf, however, must be black, so as to harmonize with that of the Oolong. If not sufficiently pungent, the addition of 1 pound low-priced Assam will supply that defect.
2. (Medium)—Base 10 pound Foochow Oolong at 25 cents, 2 pounds basket-fired Japan at 25 cents and 1 pound Ning-chow Congou. Average cost 25 cents. This will be found a popular tea in a mining or manufacturing district where a smooth-flavored substantial tea is required, or 10 pounds Ningyong Oolong at about 20 cents, 2 pounds Congou at 24 cents and 1 pound Assam at 24 cents may be tried if the former should not prove entirely satisfactory. This combination makes a heavy-bodied, dark-colored “grippy” tea; one that will stand a second drawing and still be strong and flavory. The Ningyong used in this combination should be light, clean and as sweet-drawing as can be had at the price and the Congou as “high-toasted” as possible, and if the Assam be “pekoed” so much the better.
3. (Medium to Fine)—Is a tea that has been found to give almost universal satisfaction in a district composed of a working class who appreciate smoothness and richness to weight or strength, and is formed as follows: 10 pounds fine dark-leaved Foochow Oolong at 30, 2 pounds Basket-fired Japan at 25 and 1 pound Moning Congou at 25 cents. Average cost 29 cents. Or where Oolongs are most in demand 10 pounds Foochow, 10 pounds Formosa and 5 pounds Basket-fired to mellow or tone the combination may be substituted, 5 pounds of a true Moyune Young Hyson to replace the Japan when a Green tea is preferred in the blend, or, better still, added to it. The Foochow in this combination while possessing a full body is yet lacking in aroma which is imparted by the Formosa, the Japan supplying the mellowness and Young Hyson the requisite pungency.
4. (Fine to Choice)—A Blend like the following will be found to give universal satisfaction in any locality, being full, strong, round, smooth and fragrant, one entirely foreign in flavor and aroma to that of any single tea in common use: Base 10 pounds choice “third crop” Formosa at 35 cents, 1 pound fine Ning-chow Congou at 30 cents and 1 pound Yamashiro Basket-fired Japan at 30 cents, for which an equal quantity of Nankin Imperial may be substituted when it becomes necessary to vary the combination, or, better still, added to it if a Green tea is desired in it by the customer.
5. (Choice)—Is a combination that will yield a most pleasing tea to suit a mercantile or professional trade having been fully tested and proved popular among these classes in Philadelphia and vicinity. Foundation: 10 pounds “first chop” high-district Foochow Oolong at 40 cents, 10 pounds choice “pekoe-tipped” Formosa at 40 cents and 5 pounds “Spring-picked” Basket-fired about same figures. A blend composed of these three varieties cannot be approached in drawing and drinking qualities by that of any single tea costing 60 cents.
SPECIMEN GREEN TEA BLENDS.
The combinations to be made from Green teas are not many, being limited in range.
6. (Low-Priced)—A heavy drawing, thick-liquored full-flavored tea can be prepared from a combination of equal parts of a cheap but clean, sweet-drawing Moyune Hyson or Twankay and Japan Nibs, when a cheap all-Green tea is required, as both these teas drink much better in conjunction than when either is used alone, the Japan mellowing and otherwise enriching the China tea.
7. (Medium)—Base 20 pounds fair Foochow, 5 pounds Moyune Young Hyson, and 5 pounds Sun-dried Japan, make a unique and popular blend in some sections where the taste for Young Hysons is still extant, but where Imperials are preferred, the best results are obtained by a mixing of ⅓ Imperial to ⅔ Foochow or other Oolong.
8. (Choice)—Pan and Sun-dried Japans, in equal quantities, always combine well with Hysons and Imperials, imparting a clearness and briskness to the liquor, but in the blending of green teas only true Moyunes should be employed, as Cantons, Pingsueys and all artificially-colored Green teas invariably injure and detract from the combination in which they may be introduced, no matter how fine the base and other constituent parts of the blend may be. Whenever low-priced Green teas are to be used select a cheap, clean sweet-drawing Moyune Imperial, Hyson, or even Twankay; they will give better results than the better-made and higher-priced doubtful sorts.
SPECIMEN SCENTED TEA BLENDS.
One of the greatest delusions indulged in by the novice in blending is that by using large and disproportionate quantities of Scented teas in old, inferior or damaged teas, under the erroneous impression that no matter how thin, flat, tainted or otherwise defective they may be it will “bring it up” and improve the flavor. No greater mistake in blending could be made, for while it is admitted that a small quantity of either Orange or Flowery Pekoe will add to the value and flavor of a clean, sweet Congou, but if used too freely makes it thin. Scented teas of any kind cannot overpower, neutralize or even modify the flavor of inferior or tainted teas, but, on the contrary, will make them more so, particularly if Cantons or Macaos be used. In this variety the best combinations are always to be produced from teas of the Congou and Souchong sorts, though not infrequently they combine well with Oolongs in very moderate quantities.
9. (Low-Priced)—Is a favorite blend in Scented tea localities, particularly when the water is hard or cloudy. To 10 pounds Saryune Congou add 1 pound Amoy Foochow and 1 pound Orange Pekoe. The fullness and smoothness of Saryune is unequalled for blending by that of any other low-priced Congous, but must be selected with care, as they are sometimes sour, often rank and frequently dusty. For those preferring an Oolong a cheap Saryune Oolong is best substituted for the Congou in Scented blends, the affinity being stronger and more natural. Another good blend intended for the same trade may be made from a combination of equal proportions of a cheap but clean and free liquoring Black-leaf Congou, Broken-leaf Assam and a Scented Caper—Foochow if the price should permit.
10. (Medium to Choice)—Foundation: 10 pounds Padrae Congou or Oolong, 2 pounds thick “fruity” Kiu-kiang or delicate Kintuck and 1 pound Foochow Orange or Flowery Pekoe make a fragrant and aromatic tea in affiliation, the three flavors assimilating as if governed by the law of gravitation. This will be found a tea combining strength and delicacy at the same time and well appreciated, as the chief difficulty in tea blending is the production of these two qualities in the same tea at the same time.
INDO-CHINA TEA BLENDS.
The selection of India teas for blending is more difficult than that of either China or Japan, most India teas possessing a sharp, acrid or “baked” flavor not found in the former kinds and the natural result of excess of tannin and artificial curing. These “peculiarities” consumers in this country greatly dislike, and to such an extent that is only when the finest grades are used that they can be neutralized, disguised or well-tempered with the heavier bodied China sorts that they will use them at all. For an “all-India blend” the best plan is to mix three or four different district kinds together in equal quantities—a strong, heavy Assam, a brisk and pungent Cachar, a soft and juicy Deradoon and high-flavored Kangra or Darjeeling; the latter will impart a distinctive tone to the entire combination. But fairly excellent results may also be obtained from a blend composed of equal parts of Cachar and Darjeeling alone.
11. (Low-Priced)—Is produced from proportionate quantities of a heavy-drawing Broken-leaf Assam or Darjeeling Oonfa Congou and Cachar Souchong, the whole making a rough-looking but full-bodied, strong and “grippy” tea.
12. (Medium)—Prepared from ½ Darjeeling Souchong, ½ Kee-mun or Ningchow Congou and ¼ Paklin. Its predominant feature will be delicacy, though not sufficiently so to please a general trade, the Paklin detracting from the body, but imparting a rich, deep color to the whole.
13. (Choice)—Is a good combination certain to be appreciated by lovers of the India and Scented varieties, is made from ½ of a brisk, pungent Assam Souchong, ¼ Ningchow or fruity Kintuck and ⅛ Foochow Caper. The Ningchow should be grey-leaf and as heavy as can be procured, but without being coarse or “tarry,” and the Assam as pungent as can be obtained at the time.
SOME ENGLISH BLENDS.
Blended teas are the rule in England, where the skillful mixing of tea has become an art, very little, if any tea being sold to consumers that is not mixed or blended in some manner, every dealer, both wholesale and retail being identified with or noted for some particular flavored tea. Many of the blends sold in London, although differing widely in character, are most skilfully and scientifically combined, the greatest care being taken that no tea is introduced which might act detrimentally upon any other tea in the blend. The majority of these blends are markedly distinct, almost opposite, the chief features of one being a rough, strong, but ripe Saryune Congou, that of another being an even-leafed, delicate-flavored Chingwo, the base of a third being a plain Ningchow or fruity Oonfa, to which is added an Assam Pekoe or Souchong to increase its thickness and pungency as well as give tone to the mixture, together with a small quantity of low-priced Kaisow to reduce its cost. But however great the divergence in the blends, whenever knowledge and judgment have been brought to bear on the subject success has followed in its wake, and although the most of the combinations are exceedingly popular there is still ample room for the introduction of others as well as for improvements upon those that are at present in use.
14. The following is a very popular London blend, and will be duly appreciated among English residents generally: 3 pounds Kaisow Congou, 2 pounds Souchong, 2 pounds Assam, 1 pound Pekoe and 1 pound Foochow Oolong. The foundation of this combination as will be observed, is composed of China Congous, the Souchong enriching, the Assam giving sharpness and pungency, the Oolong softening and mellowing and the Pekoe imparting aroma and piquancy to the entire.
15. Another English blend, cheaper, and consequently not as satisfactory, is composed as follows: 6 pounds Ningchow, 6 pounds Oonfa and 5 pounds Cachar or Darjeeling Congous, 5 pounds Oolong, 1 pound Caper and 1 pound Pekoe. The Congous forming the base of this blend being lacking in strength, an extra quantity of Cachar is required to “bring them up,” while the equal quantity of Oolong softens and the Scented teas give a tone to the high-toasty flavor of the India.
In Blending teas scoops or guessing should not be relied on, but scales and weights always used in measuring. If it is worth the time and trouble to test a number of teas so that the most suitable may be selected, it certainly must be worth a little more of each to weigh and arrange the proportions in the best and most advantageous manner, and not risk the success of the combination by a rough conjecture at the various quantities composing it. The advantage of correctly weighing tea for blending is not surpassed by that of selecting it in the first place, and a blend should never, under any circumstances, have its cost reduced by the introduction of a tea coarser or rougher in leaf than that of the majority of the kinds composing the mixture. Low-priced teas when used for this purpose should be clean, plain and sweet, as a tea of more pronounced character will stamp its own impression on the other teas instead of its being lost among them, its coarse features standing out prominently, while the superior qualities of the finer grades will be, if not entirely obliterated, so marred as to be unrecognizable. Whereas, if the blend is so arranged that the most powerful tea is also the highest grade in it, the effect is that all the other teas are elevated to its level. Teas should on no account be ever blended in wet or damp weather, as they have a natural susceptibility for absorbing moisture and all surrounding odors. After blending, they should be immediately replaced in the original lead-lined package and covered, or in tightly-covered cans, to exclude the air and protect them from the weather, and then allowed to stand from a week to ten days in order to let them assimilate and unite their opposite qualities.