20. Prom Marseilles to Algiers, Bougie, Philippeville, and Bona.
Steamers (agents at Marseilles, see p. [120]; at Algiers, p. [219]; at Bougie, p. [262]; at Philippeville, p. [304]; at Bona, p. [309]). 1. Comp. Générale Transatlantique from Marseilles to Algiers (463 M.), rapide mail-steamers on Sun., Tues., Wed., and Frid. at noon (returning Sun., Tues., Thurs., Frid. at noon), in 26½ hrs.; from Marseilles to Bougie (455 M.), Tues. noon (returning Sat. evening), in 37½ hrs.; from Marseilles to Philippeville (455 M.), Sat. noon (returning Frid. noon), in 30 hrs.; from Marseilles to Bona (462 M.), Tues. aft. (returning Tues. night), in 31 hrs.; fares by the mail-steamers to Algiers 96 or 69 fr.; for the other three routes 81 or 59 fr.—2. Transports Maritimes, from Marseilles to Algiers (and back), Wed. and Sat. aft., in 35 hrs., fare 70 or 45 fr.; to Philippeville (Bougie), Sat. aft. (returning Wed. noon) in 36 hrs., fare 60 or 40 fr.; to Bona, Mon. (returning Thurs.) aft., in 37 hrs., fare 60 or 40 fr.—3. Navigation Mixte (Touache Co.), from Marseilles to Algiers, rapide on Thurs. noon (returning Sat. noon), in 32 hrs., fare 75 or 50 fr.; direct cargo-boat on Mon. aft. (returning Frid. noon), in 36 hrs., fare 60 or 40 fr.; to Philippeville (Bona), mail-steamer on Thurs. noon (returning Mon. noon), in 33 hrs., fare 75 or 50 fr.
Cheap steamers to Algiers are the cargo-boats of Caillol & Duvillard (50 or 30 fr.) and of Prosper Durand (40 or 25 fr.).
Less frequented routes are those of the Navigation Mixte from Cette (90 M. to the W. of Marseilles) to Port Vendres and Algiers (Sat. night; 42 hrs.; 90 or 65 fr.); the Spanish Compañía Mallorquina (p. [120]) from Marseilles and Barcelona to Palma and Algiers (twice monthly; passport necessary); and the Comp. Générale Transatlantique (cargo-boats), between Ajaccio and Bona (Thurs. evening; in 30–38 hrs.; 60 or 50 fr.).
Marseilles, see p. [119].
The Algiers steamer usually passes close to the E. side of the island of Minorca, the eastmost of the Balearic group, where, in daylight, the deeply indented natural harbour of Mahon, the chief town, specially attracts attention. When the sea is rough the course is sometimes more westerly, past Cape Minorca (lighthouse), the W. extremity of the island, while inland on the flat coast lies the town of Ciudadela; the vessel then passes at some distance from the Cabo de Pera (lighthouse), and from the hilly S.E. coast of Majorca, which is famed for its stalactite caverns (see Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal).
At length, in clear weather, we obtain a glorious *View of the Algerian coast, from the hills of Cape Bengut (lighthouse) to the E., and the Jurjura Chain and the Tell Atlas to the S.E., both snow-clad in winter, to the wooded hill-country of Sahel, culminating in Mont Bouzaréah, and Cape Caxine (lighthouse) to the W. We now enter the fine *Bay of Algiers (p. [221]), bounded by Cape Matifou (lighthouse) on the N.E. and the cliffs of the Pointe Pescade on the N.W., and survey its whole expanse. To the left, in the Mitidja Plain, between Cape Matifou and the sand-hills at the mouth of the Harrach, lies Fort-de-l’Eau, a sea-bathing place; beyond the Harrach, on the hill, stands the church of Kouba; farther along the coast, among the houses of Hussein-Dey and Belcourt, lies the Jardin d’Essai, backed by the gardens of Mustapha-Supérieur; behind the harbour of Algiers rises the high terrace-wall of the boulevards; then, above the new town, the white houses and lanes of the Kasba on the spurs of the hill crowned with the Fort l’Empereur; lastly, on the slope of the Bouzaréah hill, between the N.W. suburbs Bab el-Oued and St. Eugène, appears Notre-Dame d’Afrique, the mariners’ church.—Arrival in the harbour, see p. [217].
On the voyage from Marseilles to Bougie the course is more easterly, out of sight of the Balearic Islands. The tedium of the voyage is at length compensated for near the Algerian coast by an imposing *View of the mountains of Kabylia, which after a snowfall in winter have quite an Alpine charm. To the W., between Cape Sigli and Cape Carbon (p. [264]) lies the abrupt and almost uninhabited coast of Great Kabylia, overtopped by the lofty Jebel Arbalou (p. [262]). To the S., behind the fine curved outline of the Gulf of Bougie (p. [130]), and beyond the plain of the Soumane Valley, rise the heights of Little Kabylia, with the deep depression of the Agrioun Valley, and, to the S.E., the serrated range of Jebel Tababor (6460 ft.). To the E., beyond Cape Cavallo, stretches the hill-region of Djidjelli. In the N.E. angle of the bay, on the S. slope of the Jebel Gouraya, but long concealed by the three spurs of that mountain (Cape Carbon, p. [264], Cape Noir, and Cape Bouak, with its lighthouse), lies most picturesquely the quiet seaport of Bougie, embosomed in luxuriant evergreen vegetation (p. [262]).
The crossing to Philippeville is specially recommended to travellers bound for Biskra direct, as they thus avoid the long railway journey from Algiers. The broad Gulf of Stora, with its numerous headlands and creeks and its beautiful wooded hills, presents a charming picture, especially in spring. In the background, in a pleasant creek, lies Philippeville (p. [304]). In passing through the outer harbour we obtain a good view of the town.
On the voyage to Bona the first land sighted on the Algerian coast is the lofty Mount Edough (3307 ft.; p. [169]), the spurs of which extend to the N.W. to the Cap de Fer (p. [131]). The steamers then enter the Gulf of Bona, bounded on the W. by the Cap de Garde (lighthouse), the N.E. spur of Mt. Edough, and on the E. by Cape Rosa (p. [131]). On the S. margin of the bay, above the marshy alluvial plain of the Seybouse and the Oued Mafrag, rise the peaks of the Tell Atlas.
On the W. side of the gulf, between the spurs of the Edough, lies Bona (p. [309]), one of the most important and most beautiful seaports of Barbary, with rich verdure all around. Before entering the grand harbour, commanded by the hill of the Kasba, we view the Corniche Road (p. [311]), while on the low hill of Hippo, to the S. of the town, rises the church of St. Augustine (p. [312]).