22. From Algiers to Tunis by Sea.
432 M. Steamers (touching at intermediate ports, 469 M.; agents at Algiers, see p. [219]; at Bougie, p. [262]; at Philippeville, p. [304]; at Tunis, p. [331]). 1. Comp. Générale Transatlantique, cargo-boat Wed. evening, viâ Bougie, Djidjelli, Collo, Philippeville, Bona, La Calle, Tabarca, and Bizerta, arrives at Tunis Sun. aft. (returning Sat. noon, arrives at Algiers Wed. morn.); 100 or 80 fr.; pier-dues at Tunis 4 or 3 fr.—2. German Levant Line, twice or thrice a month, generally calling at La Calle.—3. Hungarian Adria Co., cargo-boat twice a month to Tunis direct.
Or the voyage may be pleasantly divided as follows: Marseilles steamer of Comp. Gén. Transatlantique from Algiers to Bougie (Frid. evening; in 10 hrs.; 25 or 18 fr.); Marseilles steamer of Transports Maritimes Co. from Bougie to Philippeville (Tues. afternoon; in 12 hrs.; 18 or 12 fr.); Marseilles steamer of Navigation Mixte from Philippeville to Bona (Sat. forenoon; in 5 hrs.; 10 or 8 fr.); from Bona to Bizerta, by cargo-boat as above, or by railway; from Bizerta to Tunis by Marseilles steamer of the Comp. Gén. Transatlantique (p. [128]; Sat. night; in 5 hrs.; 15 or 12 fr.).—The small coasting steamers of Prosper Durand of Marseilles and of the Lignes Cotières Algériennes, which call at most of the ports as far as Bona, can only be recommended for short voyages by daylight.
The coast scenery between Algiers and Tunis is exceedingly picturesque and varied, but the voyage is often very trying for bad sailors. Storms are most frequent between Djidjelli and Collo, and between La Calle and Bizerta, and fogs are not uncommon, even in summer.
Algiers, see p. [217]. As the steamer leaves the harbour a beautiful *View is obtained astern of the town and of the coast as far as the Pointe Pescade (comp. p. [127]). Beyond Cape Matifou the coast, overlooked by the serrated Jebel Bou-Zegza (p. [249]), recedes for a time from view.
Near Jebel Djinet (p. [253]), beyond the sand-hills at the mouth of the Isser (p. [253]), begins the bold rock-bound coast of Great Kabylia, 87 M. in length, with its headlands and cliffs worn by the surf, its secluded little seaports, and its hill-sides carefully cultivated by the natives.
We pass the mouth of the Sebaou (p. [253]), the largest stream in Kabylia, and Cape Bengut (p. [254]), which affords scanty protection against the W. winds to the port of Dellys (p. [254]); then Tigzirt (p. [255]), Cape Tedless, and Port Gueydon or Azeffoun (lighthouse), with its roadstead open towards the W. Next comes the wildest and loneliest part of the coast, between Cape Corbelin and Cape Carbon; we pass Cape Sigli, the Pointe Timri n’Tguerfa, where Jebel Arbalou (p. [262]) comes in sight, and Cape Boulima.
Beyond the little Ile Pisan or Djeribia, overlooked by the steep slopes of Jebel Gouraya (p. [265]), the steamer rounds Cape Carbon (p. [264]), passes Cape Noir and Cape Bouak, and enters the harbour of Bougie (p. [262]).
The *Gulf of Bougie, in winter the finest part of this coast, presents many superb scenes (comp. 128), notably as we look back at the town of Bougie climbing the slope of Jebel Gouraya.
Near Cape Cavallo, in the E. part of Little Kabylia, the summits of Jebel Hadid (4780 ft.) and Msid Echta (5072 ft.) are specially prominent. We next pass the curiously shaped hill in the Ile du Grand-Cavallo, the Petit-Cavallo, and the headland Râs Afia (lighthouse), and reach the little seaport of—
Djidjelli (p. [267]), pleasantly situated at the foot of green hills, where the steamers anchor in the open roads (landing or embarkation ½ fr.). If time permit, the Vigie should be visited.
The vessel now steers to the N.E. at some distance from the coast; we pass the mouths of the Oued Nil and the Oued el-Kébir, the ancient boundary between Mauretania and Numidia, and then the Râs Atia (lighthouse): Fine view of the Bougaroun Mts., commonly called Sahel de Collo, famed for their forest of cork-trees.
Near Cape Bougaroun or Bougaroni (lighthouse), the northmost point of Algeria, opens the broad Gulf of Stora (p. [128]), bounded on the E. by the Cap de Fer (see below). On the W. bank of the gulf, in the little Bay of Collo, and between the peninsula of Djerda (lighthouse) and the Râs Frao, lies the small seaport of—
Collo (Grand-Hôtel, poor), important only for the export of cork, the ancient Chullu or Colonia Minervia Chullu, one of the four Coloniæ Cirtenses (p. [298]), in a fertile hill-region. From the harbour (landing or embarkation 30 c.) we walk round the *Peninsula, planted with vines and cacti, and overgrown on the N. side with underwood, and affording splendid views of the gulf.
Steering to the E. we now skirt the coast, where the Cape El-Kalaa or Râs Bibi (535 ft.), rising abruptly on both sides, specially strikes the eye, and pass the Pointe Esrah and the bay of that name. By the islet of Sgrigina (lighthouse), which lies in front of the Pointe Akmês or Sgrigina, opens the Inner Bay of Stora, bounded by Jebel Filfila, a mountain rich in marble, while in the background lies the harbour of Philippeville (p. [304]).
On the N.E. margin of the gulf, beyond the plain of the Oued el-Kébir, with its border of sand-hills, rise the spurs of Mont Edough (p. [128]). The steamer next rounds the almost insular Cap de Fer (1148 ft.; lighthouse), where we again view the whole expanse of the gulf, and passes Cape Toukouch, which shelters the bay of Herbillon (lighthouse) from the W. and N.W. winds. We now steer to the E.S.E., past the bare Jebel Gouari (1880 ft.), Cape Axin, and the dark rock of the Voile Noire (213 ft.), towards the Cap de Garde (p. [128]), which projects in front of the gulf of Bona.
Three hours’ steaming from Bona, past the low Cape Rosa, whose light is seen 30 M. away, brings us to the open roads of La Calle (hotel), where landing is impossible in rough weather.
Beyond the rock of Kef Mechtob (591 ft.), and a little short of Cape Roux, which is crowned with a ruined tower, and like Cape Rosa was once famed for its coral-reefs, runs the frontier of Tunisia. The wooded hills rising abruptly from the sea belong to the region of the Kroumirie (p. [326]), so often mentioned in the recent history of the country.
Tabarca (p. [327]), the next port, lies picturesquely in a bay behind the island of Tabarca with its ruined Genoese castle.
Again steering to the N.E. we pass a range of high sand-hills and the mouth of the Oued Zouara, where we have a glimpse of the Nefza Mts. (p. [328]).
Off Cape Negro appears in clear weather the coral-girt Ile de la Galite (1290 ft.), the Calatha of antiquity, about 24 M. to the N.W. of Cape Serrat (lighthouse), where the ramifications of the Mogod Mts. approach the coast.
Beyond the cliffs of the two Fratelli and the Râs al-Dukara we round the Bizerta Hills, the northmost part of the African coast, with the four headlands Râs el-Koran, Râs Engelah, Cape Blanc, and Cape de Bizerte (p. [129]). As we near the bay of Bizerta (p. [352]), fringed with low olive-clad hills, we descry, far to the S.W., the Jebel Ichkeul (p. [352]).
Steaming farther to the E., we observe the Cani (p. [129]) on the left, and pass Râs Zebib, where the green island of Pilau (377 ft.) becomes visible in the foreground. To the right, on the N. slope of Jebel Nadour (p. [354]), covered far up with sea-sand, lies the highly picturesque Arab village of Metlineh.
For the voyage from Cape Farina to Tunis, see p. [129].