24. From Genoa to Naples.
387 M. Steamboat Lines (agents at Genoa, see p. [114]; at Naples, p. [137]). 1. Cunard (New York and Trieste Line), once monthly to Naples.—2. White Star (for New York or Boston), once monthly to Naples (3l. 5s.).—3. North German Lloyd (for New York), two or three times a month, in 21 hrs.; also (for Port Said) every second Thurs. to Naples, in about 24 hrs.; also Mediterranean-Levant Service (for Catania, Piræus, Smyrna, Constantinople; RR. 23, 27, 77, 80), every second Sat., in about 26 hrs. (70.40 or 48.20 marks).—4. Hamburg-American (for New York), once or twice monthly to Naples (80 fr.).—5. Società Nazionale: Line XX every Wed. night to Naples (and Messina, etc.; circular trip, comp. p. [142]) in 33 hrs. (52 or 34 fr.); Lines V, X, & XI every Mon. and Tues. to Leghorn and Naples in 42–48 hrs. (63 or 42 fr.); Line I monthly to Naples (for Port Said and Bombay).—6. La Veloce, to Naples (for Teneriffe and S. America), comp. p. [114].—7. Lloyd Sabaudo, 1–3 times monthly to Naples (Palermo and New York).—8. Italian Lloyd, 1–3 times monthly to Naples and New York.—9. Hungarian Adria Co. (comp. R. 23), Tues. and Sat., to Naples in 36 hrs.; fare, without food, 24 fr.
Genoa, see p. [113]. In departing we survey in clear weather the whole of the *Gulf of Genoa. On the left lies the Riviera di Levante, as far as the Monte di Portofino (2000 ft.; p. [117]); on the right are the Ligurian Alps, snow-capped in winter, and the Riviera di Ponente as far as Cape Mele (p. [113]).
The vessel steers for the island of Gorgona (see below), passing Monte di Portofino at a distance of 6 or 7 M., and then gradually leaves the coast; the last place visible is Chiavari on the beautiful Bay of Rapallo. Beyond the headland of Punta del Mesco, where the slopes of the Cinque Terre, a famous wine-country, descend abruptly to the sea, appear the rocky islet of Tino (302 ft.; lighthouse) and the fortified island of Palmária (614 ft.), at the S. point of the Gulf of Spezia. The distant pinnacles of the Apuan Alps are seen in clear weather. Of Leghorn (p. [143]), where some of the Italian steamers call, the lights only are visible at night.
The islands of Gorgona and Capraia (p. [143]) lie on the right; behind the latter sometimes peep the mountains of Corsica (p. [143]). From the Ligurian we now pass into the Tyrrhenian Sea, either through the Strait of Piombino, between the port of Piombino and the rocky islet of Palmaiola, or through the Palmaiola Strait, between that islet (lighthouse) and Elba (p. [143]). By Follónica, near Piombino, some furnaces, where iron from Elba is smelted, gleam through the night. Beyond the Bay of Portoferraio and Capo della Vita, the N.E. point of Elba, are seen near Rio Marina the reddish-black hills where the iron-ore comes to the surface. Farther to the S. is seen the depression of the bay of Porto Longone.
The Promontory of Castiglione, in the midst of the marshy Maremma Toscana, and the small group of the islands of Formíche di Grosseto remain some way to the left. The steamer then passes through a strait between the steep headland of Monte Argentario (2083 ft.) and the island of Giglio (1634 ft.), each with its lighthouse. On the right lies the islet of Giannutri (305 ft.).
Steering towards the seaport of Civitavecchia and Cape Linaro, we see the distant Maremma di Roma, backed by the volcanic Tolfa Mts. (2011 ft.). Above the Roman Campagna rise the Sabine and Alban Mts., followed by the Volscian Mts. (Monti Lepini) and the Monte Circeo (1775 ft.) in the Pontine Marshes. Farther on, we obtain a glimpse of Terracina, the distant hills on the Gulf of Gaëta, and, to the S.W., the Ponza Islands (p. [133]).
In the foreground we next sight Vesuvius and the island of Ischia with Monte Epomeo (2589 ft.), by which Capri is at first concealed. The steamers usually pass between Ischia and Procida, but sometimes through the Strait of Procida, between that island and Cape Miseno. The *Bay of Naples, which we now survey in its full expanse, from the Bay of Pozzuoli and the hill of Posilipo to the Peninsula of Sorrento (p. [154]), is strikingly picturesque.
Naples.—Arrival by Sea. The Mediterranean and New York steamers of the North German Lloyd and those of the Società Nazionale are berthed at the Immacolatella Nuova (Pl. G, H, 5). Passengers by other steamers are landed at that quay by boat, those from the Lloyd and Orient Royal Lines free of charge by steam-tender or boat respectively, from others by rowing-boat (1 fr., with luggage, but bargain advisable). Travellers should be on their guard against boatmen wearing the jerseys of well-known steamboat-lines though not employed by these companies. Porter (facchino) for small valise 40, trunk 80 c.
The Railway Station (Stazione Centrale, Pl. H, 3) lies at the E. end of the city, 12 min. from the Immacolatella Nuova (see above), and ½¾ M. from most of the hotels. Here arrive all the express trains from the north, such as those from Verona (18½–20¼ hrs.), from Milan (17 hrs.), from Turin (17½–22½ hrs.), and from Venice (20 hrs.). As the delivery of luggage is a slow process, the traveller who is willing to pay somewhat more may drive straight to his hotel without it, and have it sent later. Porter (facchino) for each small package 15, for each trunk 25 c.
Hotels (often full in spring). Of the very first class: *Bertolini’s Palace Hotel (Pl. p; C, 6), in the Parco Grifeo (with lift from the Corso Vittorio Emanuele; 245 ft.), R. from 6 (Jan.–May 10) fr., B. 2, déj. 5, D. 8 fr.; *Excelsior (Pl. o; F, 7), Via Partenope 24, R. from 6, B. 2, déj. 5, D. 7 fr., new; *Grand-Hôtel (Pl. d; B, 7), Piazza Principe di Napoli, near the sea, at the W. end of the Villa Nazionale (p. [141]), R. from 6, B. 1¾, déj. 4½, D. 7 fr.—In the higher quarters, with beautiful views: Corso Vittorio Emanuele 168, *Bristol (Pl. a; D, 6), R. from 4, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr.; No. 135, *Parker’s (Pl. b; C, 6), R. 5–10, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5½ fr.; adjacent, No. 133, *Macpherson’s Hôt. Britannique (Pl. q; C, 6), R. 4–6 (Jan.-April, 5–8) fr., B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr.; *Grand Eden (Pl. u; C, 6), Parco Margherita 1, R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5½ fr.; Bellevue (Pl. t; C, 6), Corso Vittorio Emanuele 142, R. 3½–4½, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4 fr.
In the lower quarters.—Via Partenope, facing the sea: No. 23, *Gr.-Hôt. Santa Lucia (Pl. m; F, 7), R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr.; No. 22, *Gr.-Hôt. du Vésuve (Pl. g; E, 7), R. from 6, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr.; *Gr.-Hôt. Victoria (Pl. v; E, 7), R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr.; No. 14, *Royal des Etrangers (Pl. i; E, 7), R. from 6, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr. Piazza del Municipio (convenient for passing travellers): *Gr.-Hôt. de Londres (Pl. l; F, 6), R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr. Overlooking the sea, Via Partenope and Strada Chiatamone 55, Hassler (Pl. k; E, 7), R. 5–10, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr., good; Via Caracciolo 15, Savoy (Pl. r; B, 7), R. from 4, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5 fr. Riviera di Chiaia (Pl. D, C, B, 7), with view of the Villa Nazionale and the sea: No. 276, *Gr. Bretagne & Angleterre (Pl. e; D, 7), R. from 4, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr.—By the sea, Via Partenope 20, *Continental (Pl. c; E, 7), R. 3½–7, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4½ fr. Strada Medina 76 (convenient for passing travellers), Isotta & Genève (Pl. s; F, 5), R. 4½–6, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4½ fr. By the sea, entrance Strada Chiatamone 59, Métropole & Ville (Pl. h; E, 7), R. from 4, B. 1¼, déj. 3½, D. 3–4½ fr., good. Riviera di Chiaia 127, with view of the Villa Nazionale and the sea, Riviera (Pl. f; C, 7), R. 3–4, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr., good. Strada Santa Lucia 37, Eldorado Modérn (Pl. x; E, 7), R. from 3, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4 fr.
Unpretending: La Patria (Pl. w; F, 5) Via Guglielmo Sanfelice 47, R. 3½–5 fr., good; Hôt. de Naples, Corso Umberto Primo 55, R. 4–5 fr.; Hôt. Milan & Schweizerhof, Piazza del Municipio 84, R. 3–4 fr., Russie (Pl. n; F, 7), Strada Santa Lucia 82, R. 2½–3½ fr., both plain.
Restaurants (Ristoranti, Trattorie; Italian style, à la carte). Giardini Internazionali, Via Roma, entrance Vico Tre Re 60, good cuisine; Giardini di Torino, Via Roma 292; Ristorante Milanese, Galleria Umberto Primo, N. Italian cookery; Scotto Jonno, Galleria Principe di Napoli (Pl. F, 3), déj. 2 fr., Nic. Esposito, Salita del Museo 62 (these two suitable for visitors to the Museum); Renzo e Lucia, Mira Napoli, both at the terminus of tramway-line Nr. 7 (for visitors to San Martino); Ristorante Bella Vista (p. [142]), on the hill of Posilipo.—Beer. *Pilsener Urquell, Strada Santa Brigida 36; Bavaria, Galleria Umberto Primo, opposite the Teatro San Carlo, good.
Cafés. Gambrinus, Piazza San Ferdinando, also restaurant, Calzona, Galleria Umberto Primo, at both evening concerts; Nazionale, Villa Nazionale (p. [141]), near the Aquarium.—Tea Rooms. Galleria Vittoria (Pl. E, 7). open 3–8 p.m. only, fashionable; Via Domenico Morelli 8 (Pl. E, 7); Strada di Chiaia 143 (Caflish, confectioner).—Bars, numerous in Via Roma.
Taximeter Cabs. All the fares given below are for drives within the city; charges for drives outside the city at any time of day are the same as the night-fares given below.
a. By Day: Open one-horse carriage (for 2 pers., or 3 at most), for the first 1500 metres (ca. 1 M.) or 12 min. waiting 40 c., for each additional 500 m. or 4 min. waiting 10 c. (two-horse carr., for 4–6 pers., 60 and 20 c.). Closed one-horse carriage (‘coupé’), for the first 1200 m. (ca. ¾ M.) or 12 min. waiting 50 c., each addit. 400 m. or 4 min. waiting 10 c. Motor Cab, for the first 1000 m. or 12½ min. waiting 80 c., each addit. 200 m. or 2½ min. waiting 10 c.; each addit. pers. above three 40 c.—b. By Night (midnight to dawn): Open one-horse carriage for the first 1200 m. or 12 min. waiting 40 c., each addit. 400 m. or 4 min. waiting 10 c. (two-horse carr. 60 and 20 c.). Closed one-horse carriage for the first 1000 m. or 12 min. waiting 50 c., each addit. 333⅓ m. (ca. 365 yds.) or 4 min. waiting 10 c. Motor Cab, for the first 1000 m. or 12½ min. waiting 80 c., each addit. 100 m. (ca. 110 yds.) or 2 min. waiting 10 c.; each pers. above three 80 c.
Luggage up to 25 kilos (55 lbs.) 10 c., up to 50 kilos 20 c.; small articles free.—In order to avoid misunderstandings the driver should be asked to repeat the given direction before starting. The numerous tramways and omnibuses will generally enable the traveller to dispense with cabs.
Tramways (numbered; fare 15–40 c., 5 c. less in 2nd class; cars stop regularly at stations called sezione, and when required at those bearing the name fermata).
Chief lines: 1. Piazza Sette Settembre (in front of Spirito Santo; Pl. E, 4; Via Roma, p. [139]) to the Posta (Pl. F, 5), Piazza del Municipio, Piazza San Ferdinando, Largo della Vittoria (Pl. D, 7), Torretta (Pl. B, 7), and Strada Nuova di Posilipo (p. [142]).—4. National Museum (Pl. E, F, 3; p. [139]) to the Piazza Cavour, Central Station (Pl. H, 3; p. [135]), Castel del Carmine (Pl. H, 4), Strada Nuova (Pl. G, H, 5), Strada del Piliero, and Piazza del Municipio; thence as No. 1 to the Torretta.—6. Piazza Dante (Pl. E, F, 4; p. [139]) to National Museum, Via Salvator Rosa (Pl. E, 3), Corso Vittorio Emanuele (p. [141]), and Torretta (Pl. B, 7).—7. Piazza Dante to National Museum, Via Salvator Rosa, Antignano (Pl. B, C, 4; p. [142]), and Castel Sant’ Elmo (Pl. D, 5; by San Martino, p. [141]).—11. Piazza San Ferdinando (Pl. E, 6), to Strada del Piliero, Strada Nuova (Pl. F, G, 5, 6; harbour), Via del Duomo (Pl. G, F, 4, 3), and Strada delle Vérgini (Pl. F, 3).
Funiculars (every 10–20 min.; up 20 or 15, down 15 or 10 c.). 1. Funicolare di Chiaia, Parco Margherita (Pl. C, 6), to Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Via Cimarosa (Pl. C, 5).—2. Funicolare di Monte Santo to Strada Monte Santo (Pl. E, 4; 4 min. from Piazza Dante), Corso Vittorio Emanuele, and Castel Sant’Elmo (Pl. D, 5).
Omnibuses (10 c.), among others, from Piazza San Ferdinando (Pl. E, 6) and from Largo della Vittoria (Pl. D, 7) to the National Museum.
Steamboat Agents. Cunard, Nic. Ferolla, Via Guglielmo Sanfelice 59; Union Castle, Anchor Line, Orient, and Hungarian Adria, Holme & Co. (see below); White Star and Hamburg-American, Piazza della Borsa 21; North German Lloyd, Aselmeyer & Co., Corso Umberto Primo 6 (goods-office, Piazza della Borsa 33); German East African, Kellner & Lampe, Piazza della Borsa 8; Austro-Americana, Fornari & Massara, Via Francesco Denza 2; Messageries Maritimes, Fratelli Gondrand, Corso Umberto Primo 128; Società Nazionale, Via Agostino Depretis 18; Peninsular & Oriental, Thomson Line, Ferrovie dello Stato (steamer service), Spanier, Piazza della Borsa 9; Navigazione Generale, Via Agostino Depretis; La Veloce, same street, No. 26.
Post & Telegraph Office (Pl. F, 5), Palazzo Gravina, Strada Monteoliveto.
Consuls. British Consul-General, S. J. A. Churchill, Via dei Mille 40 (Pl. D, 6); vice-consul, A. Napier.—U. S. Consul, A. H. Byington, Piazza del Municipio 4 (Pl. F, 6).
Tourist Agents. Thos. Cook & Son, Galleria Vittoria (Pl. E, 7).—Goods Agents. American Express, Via Vittoria 27; Elefante & Co., Piazza del Municipio 66; Fratelli Gondrand, Corso Umberto Primo 128.—Lloyd’s Agents. Holme & Co., Via Guglielmo Sanfelice 24.
Churches. English (Christ Church; ‘Chiesa Inglese’; Pl. D, 7), Strada San Pasquale; Presbyterian (‘Chiesa Scozzese’), Vico Cappella Vecchia 2; American, Viale Principessa Elena 15.
Sights. (The churches are usually open in the morning and towards evening. The Museums are closed on great festivals.) Museo Nazionale (p. [139]), week-days 10–4, May-Oct. 9–3, adm. 1 fr.; Sun. 9–1 free.—San Martino (p. [141]), week-days 10–4, 1 fr.; Sun. 9–1, free.—Aquarium (p. [141]), daily, 2 fr.; Sun. and holidays 1 fr.
Naples, Ital. Napoli, once the capital of the kingdom of Naples, and now that of a province, is the most important seaport and after Milan the most populous city of Italy (492,000 inhab.). It lies in 40°51′ N. lat. and 14°15′ E. long., on the N. side of the bay named after it, at the foot and on the slopes of several hills. Its site and environs are among the most beautiful in the world. The vicissitudes of its history are as remarkable as those of its volcanic soil. Here in hoar antiquity Greeks from Kyme (Cumæ) founded Parthenope, afterwards called Palaeopolis or ‘old town’, and Neapolis, or ‘new town’. Here, too, Ostrogoths, Byzantines, Normans, and Hohenstaufen held sway. Charles of Anjou (1266–85) made Naples his capital, which was much extended by Ferdinand I. of Aragon (1458–94), by the Spanish viceroy Don Pedro de Toledo (1532–53), and by the Bourbon Charles III. (1748–59). At length in 1860 the kingdom and city were united to the kingdom of Italy. In historic and artistic monuments Naples is far poorer than the towns of Northern and Central Italy; but the matchless treasures from Pompeii and Herculaneum preserved in the Museum, which present a new and fascinating picture of ancient life, afford ample compensation.
A line drawn from the Castel Sant’Elmo (Pl. D, 5; p. [141]) to the Pizzofalcone (Pl. E, 7), a height which terminates in the narrow rock of the Castello dell’Ovo, divides the city into two parts. To the E. lie the oldest and busiest quarters, of which the long Via Roma (p. [139]) is the main street. The smaller part of the town, the strangers’ quarter, extends along the shore to the W. from the Pizzofalcone and up the slopes of Sant’Elmo and Posilipo (p. [142]).
The Harbour Quarter, and particularly the lanes between the Strada Nuova (Pl. G, H, 5) and the broad Corso Umberto Primo (Pl. F-H, 5, 4), which leads to the station, still present diverse scenes of popular life. Through this quarter the Strada del Duomo (p. [140]) leads to the Strada Foria and the Museum (p. [139]).
Passing the Immacolatella Vecchia (Pl. G, 5), we follow the Strada del Piliero (Pl. G, F, 5, 6; tramways Nos. 4 and 11; see p. [137]) to the Molo Angioino (Pl. F, G, 6), the old quay which separates the Porto Mercantile from the Porto Militare.
Adjacent, on the W., lies the Piazza del Municipio (Pl. F, 6), with the Municipio or town-hall at its W. end. On the S.E. side of this piazza is the approach to the—
Castel Nuovo (Pl. F, 6), built for Charles I. of Anjou in 1279–83, and afterwards much enlarged. It was the residence successively of the kings of the houses of Anjou and Aragon and the Spanish viceroys, but is now used as barracks. The inner gateway of the castle (adm. free) consists of a *Triumphal Arch, flanked with two towers, in the early Renaissance style, erected in 1451–70 in memory of the entry of Alphonso I. of Aragon (1442).
From the Piazza del Municipio the Strada San Carlo leads to the S.W. to the Galleria Umberto Primo (Pl. E, F, 6), built in 1887–90, and vying with the grand arcade at Milan, and to the—
Piazza San Ferdinando (Pl. E, 6), the business centre of the city. (Tramcars and omnibuses, see p. [137].) On the E. side rises the Teatro San Carlo (Pl. F, 6), dating from 1737, one of the largest in Europe. Adjacent, in the large Piazza del Plebiscito, rises the Palazzo Reale (Pl. F, 6), begun in 1600.
At the Piazza San Ferdinando begins the Via Roma, the chief artery of traffic, named the Toledo down to 1870, after its founder Don Pedro de Toledo (1540). With its continuation the Salita del Museo Nazionale it ascends for over a mile, between the lanes on the slope of the Sant’Elmo hill, on the left, and the chief business part of the city, on the right, to the National Museum. This long line of streets, poor architecturally, is broken only by the small Largo della Carità (Pl. E, 5) and the Piazza Dante (Pl. E, F, 4). About halfway between these the Via Domenico Capitelli diverges to the right to the church of—
Santa Chiara (Pl. F, 4), the Pantheon of Naples, built in 1310–40, but tastelessly restored in 1742–57. The interior, planned in the French Gothic style, resembles a great public hall. Behind the high-altar is the Gothic *Monument of Robert the Wise (d. 1343), the founder of the church. The transepts contain the monuments of other Angevin kings.
The **Museo Nazionale (Pl. E, F, 3), built in 1586 as cavalry barracks, was the seat of the University from 1616 to 1780, but since 1790 has been occupied by the royal art-collections, which are among the finest in the world. Adm., see p. [137].
On the Ground Floor, in the E. wing on the right of the vestibule, are the *Greek Sculptures in marble. Entering by the first door, we begin our visit with the colonnade of the archaic sculptures (Marmi Arcáici). In the centre: 6009, 6010. Harmodios and Aristogeiton (p. [506]).—Turning to the right, we enter the rooms on the S. side of the building, which contain sculptures of the First Golden Age of Greek art (5th cent.). In the central room, 6322. Bust of Athena, probably after Cephisodotus (father of Praxiteles); by the window, two statues of Aphrodite (after Alcamenes?); I. Room on the right, 6005. So-called Hera Farnese; II. Room on the left, *6727. The famous Orpheus relief; *6024. Statue of Athena (after Phidias?). Also, in II. R. on the right, fine Mosaics.
From the colonnade of the archaic sculptures we pass through R. II into the Flora colonnade, the rooms on the right of which contain the sculptures of the Second Golden Age of Greek art (4th cent.) and of the later Greek or Hellenistic period. In the central room, 6306. Bearded Dionysus, after Praxiteles. I. Side-Room on the right, *6035. Torso of Aphrodite; without a number, Torso of a man sitting, a replica of the so-called Ares Ludovisi, after Lysippus. II. Side-Room, Farnese Hercules, after Lysippus, but coarsened. III. Side-Room on the left, Farnese Bull, a colossal group, after Apollonius and Tauriscus of Rhodes.
The third colonnade contains coloured sculptures. In the side-rooms are fragments of sculptures and buildings. Crossing the vestibule to the W. wing, we enter the—
Colonnade of the Greek portrait-statues (Portico Iconográfico). On the right, *6018. Æschines, the Athenian orator; 6023. Homer; 6135. Euripides.—Straight on, we next come to the Portico degli Imperatori, containing Greek and Roman portraits. In the centre, *Hermes of a Greek philosopher. In the side-rooms, Roman sculptures and architectural fragments. The central of these rooms contains the celebrated *Mosaic of the Battle of Alexander.
The remaining rooms contain the *Collection of the larger antique bronzes. The chief rooms (I, II Bronzes from Pompeii, III-V from Herculaneum) are on the S. front of the Museum. Room I. 5003. Young Dionysos (so-called Narcissus). Room II. 5630. Archaic statue of Apollo playing on the lyre; 4997. Victory. Room III. 5625. Hermes reposing, School of Lysippus; 5633. Boy’s head (end of 5th cent.); *4885. Bust of the Doryphorus (spear-bearer), after Polycletus; *5618. Head of bearded Dionysus, after a work of the School of Myron (5th cent.). Room V. 5616. Hellenistic poet (the so-called Seneca).
In the Mezzanino (entresol), on the right, is the *Collection of ancient wall-paintings (Affreschi Pompeiani) from Pompeii, Herculaneum, etc.—Room I. 9105. Briseis carried off from the tent of Achilles; 9559. Nuptials of Zeus and Hera. Room II. 8976. Medea about to slay her children; 9286. Dionysus and the sleeping Ariadne. Passage to R. V, 9180. ‘Cupids for sale’. Room V. 8834. Girl gathering flowers; 9295. Bacchantes and Satyrs; 9133. Centaurs; 9118–21. Rope-dancing satyrs.
The First Floor (Primo Piano) contains, in the E. wing, to the left of the staircase, the two Sale dei Commestibili, devoted to provisions, textiles, pigments, etc. from Pompeii; also seven rooms on the N. side of the building, occupied by the *Collection of the smaller bronzes (Piccoli Bronzi), and by interesting domestic furniture from Pompeii, affording an admirable idea of the ancient style of living.
The whole of the W. wing is occupied by the Pinacotéca or picture-gallery, chiefly of Italian works. Room I. Correggio, Betrothal of St. Catharine. Room II. *Titian, Danae (1545), Pope Paul III. Farnese (1543 and 1545), and Philip II. of Spain. Room III. Sebast. del Piombo, Holy Family, Popes Hadrian VI. and Clement VII. Room IV. Raphael, Holy Family (Madonna del divino Amore). Room V. Sandro Botticelli, Madonna.
The other rooms contain Renaissance objects (Oggetti del Cinquecento), the Engravings, and the National Library.
The Second Floor (Secondo Piano) is dedicated to antique glass, gold and silver plate, cut gems, etc., a most interesting and extensive collection, one of the finest of its kind.
The N.E. Quarter, between the Museum and the Central Station (tramways Nos. 4 and 11; p. [137]), also boasts of its sights.
We follow the long Piazza Cavour (Pl. F, 3) to the N.E. from the Museum, and at the beginning of the Via Foria descend the Strada del Duomo to the right to the (4 min.)—
Cathedral (Pl. G, 3; San Gennaro; best seen about noon), a Gothic edifice, built in 1272–1323, but repeatedly modernized. The third chapel in the right aisle is the famous Cappella di San Gennaro or Cappella del Tesoro, added to the church in 1608–37; the altar contains two phials of the blood of St. Januarius, which is miraculously liquefied thrice yearly. The crypt, below the high-altar, shows the finest example of Renaissance decoration in Naples (1497–1507). From the left aisle is entered the basilica of Santa Restituta, the old cathedral, founded in the 7th century.
The church of San Giovanni a Carbonara (Pl. G, 3), in the street of that name, a little way to the N.E. of the cathedral, contains, at the back of the high-altar (1746), the late-Gothic *Monument of king Ladislaus (d. 1414), by Andreas de Florentia.
At the end of the street, opposite the Castel Capuano (Pl. G, 3; now law-courts), built by Emp. Frederick II. in 1231, rises the—
*Porta Capuana (Pl. G, H, 3), one of the finest of Renaissance gateways, built by the Florentine Giuliano da Maiano (1485), with sculptures by Giovanni da Nola (1535).
The chief approach from the Piazza San Ferdinando (p. [138]) to the W. quarters is by the animated Strada di Chiaia (Pl. E, 6). From its W. end we proceed along the Strada Santa Caterina, bearing to the left, cross the Piazza dei Martiri, and follow the Via Calabritto, with its numerous shops, to the—
Largo della Vittoria (Pl. D, 7; tramways, Nos. 1 and 4, and omnibus, see p. [137]). This piazza may be reached also from the Rione Santa Lucia on the E. side by the Via Parténope (Pl. F, E, 7), which leads along the coast, past the Costello dell’Ovo (p. [138]), and affords fine views. On the W. side of the Largo lies the—
*Villa Nazionale (Pl. C, D, 7), usually called La Villa, a beautiful public garden planted with palms, bounded on the seaside by the Via Caracciolo, the fashionable promenade of Naples, and on the side next the town by the Riviera di Chiaia. A band plays here on Sun., Tues., and Thurs., 2–4 o’clock (June-Oct. 9–11 p.m.). In the middle of these grounds is the—
Zoological Station, founded in 1872 by the German naturalist A. Dohrn (d. 1909). The central building contains the *Aquarium (Pl. D, 7; adm., see p. [137]), which presents an unrivalled and most interesting picture of submarine life.
The winding Corso Vittorio Emanuele, over 2½ M. long, ascends from the coast a little way beyond the Villa Nazionale, or it may be reached from the Museum by the Via Salvator Rosa (Pl. E, 3; tramway No. 6, see p. [137]). Above the ‘Villa’, on the S. slope of the Sant’ Elmo Hill, are situated the best hotels.
On the hills to which the two funiculars and tramway No. 7 (p. [137]) ascend from the lower town lies the new quarter of Rione Vómero (Pl. C, D, 5). On its E. side rises the old Castel Sant’ Elmo (Pl. D, 5; 817 ft.), fortified with huge walls and with passages hewn in the tufa rock, and now used as a military prison. From the outer gate of the castle, at the tramway-terminus, we descend to the E. to the suppressed Carthusian monastery of—
*San Martino (Pl. D, 5; adm., see p. [137]), a Gothic building of the 14th cent., tastefully restored in the baroque style about 1650. The church, the old farmacía (Room III), and the cloisters are interesting. The other rooms contain Neapolitan memorials and art-industry collections. Rooms XV and XVI (once the library) are filled with Neapolitan majolicas and porcelain. From Room XXX, to the right, we enter a *Belvedere (XXXII), whose balconies offer a superb view of the city, Vesuvius, the bay, and the fertile plain extending to the Apennines (best by afternoon light).
A famous view (clear weather necessary) is obtained from the old monastery of **Camaldoli (1503 ft.), founded in 1585 on the highest of the hills to the N.W. of Sant’ Elmo. The rough road to it (carr. about 6, with two horses 9–10 fr.; there and back 4½ hrs.) leaves the city near the Porta San Martino (Pl. A, B, 2), the N.W. gate of the Cinta Daziaria or wall of the octroi (town-customs). If on foot or on donkey back (2–2½ fr. and fee to attendant; 5–6 hrs.), we go from Rione Vomero (see above) through the suburb of Antignano (Pl. B, C, 4, 5) to the little customs-office of l’Archetiello (Pl. B, 4), near which the bridle-path begins.
The monastery (suppressed, and now private property, but still occupied by several monks; fee 30–50 c.; ladies not admitted) offers little attraction. Straight through the garden we reach a point of view which commands the bays of Naples and Pozzuoli, the Phlegræan plain with its numerous extinct craters, and the Bay of Gaëta as far as the distant Ponza Islands (p. [133]).
When ladies are of the party we turn to the right, near the N.W. angle of the monastery-wall, and descend a little to the (8 min.) gate of the Veduta Pagliana (adm. 20 c.), where the view is similar.
Travellers whose time is limited may at least visit the *Strada Nuova di Posílipo (tramway No. 1; p. [137]). It is approached, beyond the Villa Nazionale (p. [141]), by the Strada di Mergellina (Pl. B, 7), from which the Corso Vittorio Emanuele (p. [141]) diverges. The Strada Nuova di Posilipo, gradually ascending from the sea, leads between villas with luxuriant gardens round the broad hill of Posílipo, which bounds the Bay of Naples on the W., and offers, especially by evening light, superb views of Mt. Vesuvius, the peninsula of Sorrento (p. [154]), and the island of Capri. A walk of 10 min. straight on from the tramway-terminus brings us through a cutting to the Bella Vista, a point of view near the restaurant of that name (p. [136]), where we have an unimpeded view of the bay of Pozzuoli and of the islands of Procida and Ischia (p. [135]).
An interesting circular trip may be made from the Corso Vittorio Emanuele (p. [141]), up the Via Tasso (Pl. C, B, 6), with its fine points of view, to the top of Posilipo, then along the crest of the hill to the S.W. to the tramway-terminus, and back by the Posilipo road (a walk of 3½–4 hrs., or a drive of 1½ hr.; a cab should be taken by the hour).
For Naples and its Environs comp. also Baedeker’s Southern Italy, or Italy from the Alps to Naples.