The Mediterranean

by Karl Baedeker

34. Algiers.

Arrival by Sea. The French steamboat lines (RR. 20, 22) have their own piers. The fare for landing by boat from other steamers is 30 c. (trunk 20 c.; small articles free). The tariff of the porters (portefaix-commissionnaires, largely natives, mostly exorbitant) to the lower part of the old town is 25 c. for a trunk of 25 kilos (55 lbs.), 50 c. up to 50 kilos, and 1 fr. up to 100 kilos; for porterage to the custom-house (Douane; where baggage is not cleared on Sun. or festivals) 25–50 c., according to bargain. The numbered porters of the steamboat companies had better be employed; or the matter may be entrusted to the hotel-agents. The services of guides, interpreters, and the like should be declined.

Railway Stations. 1. Chief Station (Gare; Pl. C, 3), Quai Sud, below the Rampes Magenta (p. [223]) and Boul. Carnot, 5–15 min. from the hotels in the town, ¾–1 hr. from those at Mustapha-Supérieur: station for all the hotel-omnibuses (no tramway; cabs, see p. [218]).—2. Gare de l’Agha (Pl. C, 5, 6; also goods-station), Rue Sadi-Carnot, at Agha-Inférieur (p. [232]), a subordinate station for the S. quarters of the town.—Town-offices of the railways, Boul. Carnot 2 and at the Agence Lubin (p. [219]).

Hotels (comp. p. [174]; in Feb. and March rooms should be ordered in advance). In the Villa Quarter (Mustapha-Supérieur and Quartier d’lsly; mostly closed in summer), suitable for some stay, clientèle largely English and American: *Hôt. Continental (Pl. c; A, 6), Chemin du Télemly and Boul. Bon-Accueil (entered also from the Station Sanitaire, p. [228]), on a high site, with fine views and garden, R. 5–20, B. 1½, déj. 4–5, D. 6–8, pens. from 13, omn. 3 fr.; *Hôt. St. George (Pl. a; A, 8), Rue Michelet, with beautiful grounds, R. 5–15, B. 1½, déj. 4–4½, D. 6–7, pens. 13–25, omn. 3 fr.; Alexandra (Hôt. Kirsch; Pl. b, A 8), same street, with garden and small terrace, R. 4–18, B. 2, déj. 3½–4½, D. 5–6, pens. 12–25, omn. 3 fr., good cuisine; these three are of the first class.—Hôt. Oriental (Pl. f; A, 6), Boul. Bon-Accueil (entrance from Station Sanitaire), with garden, R. 5–10, B. 1¼, déj. 3, D. 4, pens. from 9 fr., good cuisine; Grand-Hôtel (Pl. g; A, 7), above Rue Michelet, with fine grounds, pens. 9–12 fr.; Hôt. Beau-séjour (Pl. e; A, 6), Rue Michelet, below the Museum Terrace (p. [228]), R. 3–8, B. 1, déj. or D. 3, pens. 8–10, omn. 2½ fr., open throughout the year; Pens. Villa Olivage, beyond the Bois de Boulogne (p. [230]), good; Pens. Victoria, Rue Michelet, near the Colonne Voirol.

In the Town, nearer the sights, more convenient for excursions: *Hôt. Excelsior (Pl. h; C, 4, 5), Boul. Laferrière, 8 min. from the Gare de l’Agha, well fitted up, with restaurant, R. 1–30, B. 1¼, déj. 3½, D. 5, board 8, omn. (also from the Agha station) 1 fr.; *Hôt. de l’Oasis (Pl. k; C, 3), Rue du Laurier 2 and Boul. de la République 9, with fine views, restaurant, and American bar, R. 3–18, B. 1½, pens. from 10, omn. 1¼ fr.; Hôt. de la Regence (Pl. 1; C, 2), Place du Gouvernement 3, R. 4–10, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 4½, pens. 12–20, omn. 1½ fr.; Gr.-Hôt. Arago & du Palmier (Pl. m; C, 3), Rue Arago 6, quiet; Hôt. de Nice (Pl. n; C, 8), Rue Garibaldi 2 and Place de la République (Square Bresson).

Hôtels Garnis. Hôt. des Etrangers (Pl. i; C, 3), Rue Dumont-d’Urville 1, near the Place de la République, R. 3½–7½, B. 1½, Hôt. d’Europe & Terminus (Pl. o; C, 3), Rue Garibaldi, corner of Boul. Carnot (R. 3–7, B. 1 fr.), Royal Hotel (Pl. p; C, 3), Boul. de la République 10 (R. from 2½ fr.), both with fine views; Hôt. Regina, Boul. Bugeaud.

Cafés. Café Continental (Brasserie Maxéville), Café d’Alger (Brass. de Tantonville), both Place de la République; Café de Bordeaux, Boul. de la République 1, corner of Place du Gouvernement; Café d’Apollon, Place du Gouvernement 4.—Confectioner. Maison Fille, Rue Bab-Azoun 2.

Restaurants. At the Hôtel Excelsior (p. [217]); London House, at the Hôt. de l’Oasis, Boul. de la République 9, déj. 3, D. 4 fr.; *Taverne Gruber, same boulevard, No. 7, a favourite resort (music in the afternoon and evening); Jaumon, Rue Dumont-d’Urville, déj. 2, D. 2½ fr., plain but good.—For Luncheon (fish, sea-crayfish, shell-fish, etc.): *Restaur. Cassar and Restaur. de la Pêcherie, Rampe de la Pêcherie.—Beer at the *Brasserie Terminus, Boul. Carnot 1 (in Hôt. de l’Europe), D. 3 fr.; also, Rue de la Liberté 6, Brass. de l’Etoile (music in the afternoon and evening) No. 11, Brass. Suisse; No. 8, Brass. du Phénix; No. 1, Brass. Lorraine.

Cabs (voitures de place).

‘Double courses’ (there and back):—			per hr.
a)	within the First Zone, extending as far as the European cemetery of St. Eugène (beyond Pl. B, 1) to the N. and as the beginning of the Champ de Manœuvres (Pl. C, 7) to the S.	1.50	2.—
	Each ¼ hr.	—.50
b)	within the Second Zone, including the W. margin of the town (Prison Civile, Télemly, Palais d’Eté at Mustapha, etc.) and extending as far as Deux-Moulins beyond St. Eugène (comp. Map, at p. [233]) to the N. and the Cimetière Musulman (Pl. D, 9) at	2.—	2.—
	Belcourt to the S. To the Jardin d’Essai (and back)	2.50
	Each ¼ hr.	—.75
Within the Third Zone comprising the regions beyond those just named:
	Half-day (6 hrs.), within a radius of 15 kilometers (9½ M.)	11.—
	Whole day (12 hrs.), within a radius of 25 kilomètres (15½ M.)	20.—

During the night-hours (12–6 a.m.) a fare and a half is charged.—For waiting, ½ fr. extra for each ¼ hr.—Hand-luggage up to 20 kilos (44 lbs.) free; each piece exceeding that 50 c.

Motor Cabs (Automobiles de place; stand, Rue Garibaldi). Drive under 900 mètres (984 yds.) 1 fr. 50 c.; for each addit. 300 m. 20 c.; small articles free; trunk 50 c.

Carriages (cabs and ‘voitures de grande remise’; fares raised on Sun. and holidays). Vitoz & Co., Rue Michelet 105, Mustapha-Supérieur; Sanino, Rue de Strasbourg 3, and Rue Michelet 117; Comp. Générale des Voitures, Rue de Strasbourg 7.—Saddle Horses let by Vitoz and Sanino.—

Motor Cars for excursions: Metrot, Marcé, both Rue d’Isly 39; Anglo-American Garage, Chemin du Télemly; E. Paul, Rue d’Isly 73.

Tramways (1st and 2nd cl.). 1 (without name-board). From Hôpital du Dey (Pl. A, B, 1) to Rue Bab el-Oued (Pl. C, 1, 2), Place du Gouvernement (Pl. C, 2), Rue Bab-Azoun (Pl. C, 2, 3), Rue d’Isly (Pl. C, 3, 4), Rue Michelet, and Station Sanitaire (Pl. A, 6), every 5 min. (but 5–6 a.m. and 10–12 p.m. every 10 min. only); fare 5–20 c.—2 (red name-board). From Place du Gouvernement to Rue d’Isly, Rue Michelet, and Colonne Voirol (comp. Pl. A, 8), every ½ hr. (from 6 a.m., last car at 8.5 p.m.), in 40 min.; fare 30 or 20 c.—3 (blue). From Place du Gouvernement to Rue d’Isly, Rue Michelet, and Boul. Bru (Pl. A-C, 8, 9), every ½ hr. (last car 7.50), in ½ hr.; 30 or 20 c.—4 (green). From Place du Gouvernement to Boul. Carnot (Pl. C, 3), Rue de Constantine (Pl. C, 4), Rue Sadi-Carnot (Pl. B, 5, 6), Rue de Lyon (Pl. B-E, 7–9), Le Ruisseau, and Kouba; as far as Marabout (Cimetière Musulman de Belcourt) every 5 min.; to Les Platanes (Jardin d’Essai) every 10 min.; to Kouba every 40 min.; fare 35 or 30 c.—5 (red). From Place du Gouvernement to Boul. Carnot, Rue Sadi-Carnot, Jardin d’Essai (Oasis des Palmiers, in 27 min.), Nouvel Ambert, Maison-Carrée (in 1 hr.); as far as Nouvel Ambert every 10 min., to Maison-Carrée every 20 min.; fare 60 or 45 c.—6. From Place du Gouvernement to Rue de la Lyre (Pl. C, 2, 3), Rue Rovigo (Pl. C, 3), Prison Civile (Pl. B, C, 2; 20 or 15 c.), El-Biar (comp. Pl. A, 4; 40 or 35 c.), and Château-Neuf (in 50 min.; 50 or 40 c.); as far as Prison Civile every ¼ hr., to El-Biar every ½ hr., to Château-Neuf once every hr. (Sun. every ½ hr.).—7. From Place du Gouvernement to Boul. de France (Pl. D, 2), Esplanade (Pl. C, 1), Bab el-Oued (Pl. B, 1), St. Eugène (comp. Pl. B, 1), and Deux Moulins, every 9 min.; 30 or 20 c.

Steam Tramways from the Place du Gouvernement: to (7½ M.) Maison-Carrée (p. [247]), and thence either to (4½ M.) Fort-de-l’Eau (p. [248]) and (12½ M.) Aïn-Taya (p. [248]), or to (10½ M.) L’Arba (p. [247]) and (15½ M.) Rovigo (p. [248]); to (22 M.) Mazafran (p. [238]), and thence either to (6¼ M.) Koléa (p. [238]), or to (6½ M.) Castiglione (p. [238]).

Post & Telegraph Office (Pl. 22, C4; p. [226]), Rue de Constantine 133; branches at Rue de Strasbourg 2, in the Palais Consulaire (p. [223]), at Rue Michelet 64 (Mustapha-Inférieur), near the Palais d’Eté (p. [230]), etc.

Steamboat Agents. Cunard, North German Lloyd (R. 15b), Hamburg-American, German Levant (RR. 15b. 22), and Hungarian Adria (R. 22). R. Heckmann, Rue Colbert 1; Comp. Générale Transatlantique (RR. 20, 22), Boul. Carnot 6 and Quai de la Marine; Soc. de Transports Maritimes (R. 20), Boul. de la République 2 and Quai de la Marine; Comp. de Navigation Mixte (R. 20), Boul. Carnot 2 and Quai do la Marine; White Star Line, Austro-American Line, J. Crispo, Boul. de la République 3; Nederland Royal Mail, J. Bergeret, Boul. Carnot; Compañía Mallorquina de Vapores (R. 20), J. J. Sitges Frères, Quai Nord 40.

Tourist Agents. R. Heckmann (Universal Tourist Office), Boul. de la République 11; Agence Lubin, Rue de la Liberté 7; Agence Duchemin, same street, No. 4.—Information obtainable also from the Comité d’Hivernage, Rue Combe 2. 8–11 and 2–6 (Sun. 8–11).—Club Alpin Français (section de l’Atlas), Palais Consulaire (p. [223]).

Consuls. British Consul-General, B. S. Cave, Boul. Carnot 6; vice-consuls, L. G. C. Graham, L. Graeme Scott.—U. S. Consul, A. W. Robert, Rue d’Isly 64.

Physicians. Dr. Dangerfield, Kent House, Colonne Voirol; Dr. Gubb, Mustapha, Chemin des Glycines; Dr. Nissen, Mustapha-Supérieur, Villa Bey, Rue Michelet.—Chemists. Grandmont (Obrecht), Rue Bab-Azoun 28; Licht, Rue Michelet 85; Brenta, Rue Bab-Azoun 3.

Baths. Bains du Palmier, Rue Arago 6 (Gr.-Hôt. Arago & du Palmier); Bains du Hamma, Rue du Hamma 1 (near the Théâtre Municipal); Bains Michelet, Rue de Richelieu 25.—Moorish Baths (comp. p. [175]): Bains de l’Alhambra, Rue Marengo 4.—Sea Baths (June-Oct.; plainly fitted up; costume 50 c.): Bains du Jardin d’Essai (p. [233]); Bains Nelson, Avenue Malakoff.

Banks (comp. p. [174]). Crédit Lyonnais, Boul. de la République 6; Comp. Algérienne, Rue Dumont-d’Urville; Banque de l’Algérie, Crédit Foncier et Agricole d’Algérie, Crédit Agricole et Commerciel Algérien (J. Thibaud), all three in the Boul. de la République (Nos. 5, 8, & 4).

Booksellers. Jourdan, Place du Gouvernement and Rue Cléopâtre 1; Chaix, Rue d’Isly 11bis; Relin, Rue d’Isly 11; Ruff, Rue Bab-Azoun 10; Carbonnel, Ledoux, both Boul. de la République (Nos. 2 & 7).—Newspapers (5 c.). La Dépêche Algérienne (morning); Les Nouvelles, Le Cri d’Alger (evening). For strangers, The North African News (Sat.; 25 c.).

Shops (caution almost as necessary as at Tunis; comp. p. [331]). Photographs and Views. Geiser, Place de Chartres 2; A. Wollenweider, Rue du Divan 4; Hyam, Station Sanitaire (Pl. A, 6).—Oriental Articles (partly made in France and Germany; also Indian, Japanese, and Turkish wares). Ratto (goldsmith), Rue Socgémah 12; Pohoomull Frères, Rue Bab-Azoun 11; Ratto-Magana, Rue de l’Etat Major 5; Miss Jockyl, English Club Buildings, Mustapha-Supérieur.—Embroidery. Mme. Hémery, Rue Michelet 89, Mustapha-Supérieur.—Copper and Brass Work. Zagha (from Damascus), Rue Bruce 27; Nassan, Place Malakoff.

Theatres. Théâtre Municipal (Pl. 26; C, 3), Place de la République, for operas, operettas, and dramas, closed in summer; Kursaal (Pl. C, 1), Esplanade de Bab-el-Oued (tickets sold in advance at 4 Boul. de la République.—Casino Music Hall), Rue d’Isly 9 (fauteuil 2½ fr.).—Fêtes Mauresques at the Kasba, arranged by the Comité d’Hivernage (p. [219]), with native musicians and dancers (adm. 5 fr.).

Band plays in winter, Sun. and Thurs., 4–5, in the Place du Gouvernement; in summer (May-Oct.), on Mon., Wed., and Sat., from 8 to 10.30, in the Place de la République (Square Bresson), and on Sun., Tues., and Thurs., from 8 to 10.30, in the Place du Gouvernement.

Golf Club, with good nine hole course, near the Pens. Villa Olivage (p. [217]).—Skating Rink at the corner of Boul. Carnot and Rue Waïsse (Pl. C, 4).

Churches. English (Ch. of the Holy Ghost; p. [230]), Rue Michelet (Pl. A, 7), to the N. of the Alexandra Hotel (p. [217]); Sun. services at 8 and 11.30 or 9.45 a.m.; chaplain, Rev. A. P. Cronyn, M. A.—Presbyterian (St. Andrew’s; Pl. 7, A 6) also Rue Michelet, Sun. service at 10.30 a.m.; minister, Rev. T. E. Jubb, M. A.

Sights, with days and hours of admission:—

Archevêché (p. [224]), all day; fee ½–1 fr.

Bibliothèque Nationale (p. [225]), week-days 1–6; closed Aug. and Sept.

Conseil Général (p. [224]), apply to secretary; week-days 8–11 and 1–5.

Jardin d’Essai (p. [232]), all day (Zoologie 50 c.).

Kasba Barracks (p. [227]), apply to Etat-Major, Rue de la Marine 11.

Medersa (p. [228]), except during lectures; closed Sun., Frid., and on great Mohammedan festivals.

Mosquée de la Pêcherie (p. [223]), at any time except during prayers.

Mosque, Great (p. [224]), as above.

Mosque of Sidi Abderrahmân (p. [228]), Sun., Mon., Tues., 8–12 and 2–3; closed on the chief Mohammedan holidays.

Musée Municipal des Beaux-Arts (p. [226]), daily, except Friday.

Museum (p. [229]), daily, except Mon., 1–4 (1st April to 15th July 2–5; closed 16th July to 30th Sept.).

Palais d’Eté du Gouverneur (p. [230]), in his absence; fee ½–1 fr.

Palais d’Hiver du Gouverneur (p. [225]), as above.

Synagogue (p. [227]), all Frid., Sat. after 12, at other times apply to keeper, 30–50 c.

As to visiting the Mosques, see p. [174].—Men are not admitted to the Mohammedan Cemeteries (p. xxvi) on Frid. and holidays 12–6.

Two Days. 1st. Forenoon, Place de la République, Boul. de la République, Place du Gouvernement, Great Mosque, Archevêché (pp. [222]–224), *Kasba Quarter (pp. [226], 227), *Mosque of Sidi-Abderrahmân (p. [228]), and *Jardin Marengo (p. [224]). Afternoon, Mustapha-Supérieur with the *Museum (pp. [228]–230).—2nd. Forenoon, Mohammedan Cemetery at Belcourt (p. [232]), *Jardin d’Essai (p. [232]). Afternoon, Notre-Dame d’Afrique (p. [236]) or Bouzaréah (p. [235]).

Algiers, French Alger, Ital. Algéri, the capital of the French colony of Algeria, with 154,000 inhab. (incl. 35,200 foreigners, mostly Italians and Spaniards, 33,200 Mohammedans, and 12,500 Jews), seat of the archbishop of Algeria, a fortress, and a naval harbour, lies in 36°47′ N. lat. and 3°2′ E. long., on the W. side of the nearly semicircular *Baie d’Alger, which is bounded on the W. by the Pointe Pescade (p. [237]), and on the E. by Cape Matifou (p. [248]). It is the most important coaling-station on the whole coast, and shares with Oran the chief trade of Algeria. The town extends along the slopes of the Sahel of Algiers, a range of hills about 44 M. long, culminating in Mt. Bouzaréah (p. [235]), continued beyond the mouth of the Oued el-Harrach by low sand-hills, and separated from the Tell Atlas by the Mitidja (p. [169]). With regard to climate, see pp. [170], 172.

On the site of the Roman Icosium, an unimportant place on the road to Tipasa and Cæsarea (Cherchell, p. [244]), Bologgîn ez-Ziri (p. [323]), about 940 (about the same date as the foundation of Miliana and Médéa) founded the new colony of Al-Jezaïr Beni Mezghanna, so called from the adjacent coast-islands (jezîra, pl. jezaïr) and from the Berber tribe of the Beni Mezghanna who dwelt in this region. It is recorded that in the 11th cent. the inhabitants of the new settlement used the old Roman baths, of which there is now no trace, for their amusements and an old Christian basilica for their worship. From that time the history of Al-Jezaïr is a blank down to the end of the 15th cent., when it began to serve the Moorish exiles from Spain (afterwards called Tagarins here) as a base of their retaliatory expeditions against Spain. In 1509 or 1510 the Spaniards, in the course of their victorious career, occupied the largest of the coast-islands, where they erected the fortress of El-Peñón, and conquered the Mitidja which had recently been colonized by the Arabian tribe of the Tsaliba. The little town, called Argel by the Spaniards, was inhabited by Mohammedans, who in 1516 summoned to their aid, from Djidjelli, Horuk (Arudj) Barbarossa, a Turkish pirate of Christian descent. Horuk complied with the request and established himself at Al-Jezaïr, where, after repelling a Spanish expedition under Diego de Vera (1516), he erected the Jenina as his residence and the Kasba as his citadel.

Having fallen in a battle with the Spaniards near Tlemcen (p. [187]), Horuk was succeeded by his brother Kheireddin Barbarossa (1518–36), who became the real founder of the new barbaresco or piratical state. As a vassal of the sultan of Turkey he extended his sway over the greater part of Algeria. He defeated Hugo de Moncada, the Spanish viceroy, in 1519, and in 1530, after having stormed the fortress of Peñón, he constructed the Jetée de Kheireddin with its materials and with others from Rusguniæ (p. [248]) and Tipasa, thus creating the first harbour of Algiers. Thenceforwards for three centuries the ‘Algerian pirates’ were the terror of the seas, to whom, for protection of their trade, England, Holland, the Hanseatic towns, and other maritime countries ignominiously consented to pay tribute. Fourteen times the European powers, from the time of the fruitless campaign of Charles V. in 1541 to the British expedition of 1824, had besieged and bombarded Algiers in vain. The beys (or, after 1600, deys) had succeeded in maintaining their position, and in 1627 had even carried their piratical expeditions as far as Iceland. It was not till 1830 that these barbarous piracies were put a stop to by the French, and that the way was thus paved for conquest of the whole of Algeria.

The most stirring events in the recent history of Algeria were the conquest of Constantine (1837), the protracted struggles against Abd el-Kâder (1839–47), the defeat of his Moroccan allies on the Oued Isly (1844), the subjection of Great Kabylia (1856–7), the revolts of the natives in 1871–2, the rising of Bou-Amama in S. Oran (1881), the occupation of the Sahara as far as Tidikelt and the Tuat oases (1892–1901), and lastly the French advance towards Morocco (comp. p. [96]).

The Algiers of the Turkish period consisted solely of the triangular quarter on the slope of the Kasba Hill, between the old landward gates, Bab Azoun on the S. and Bab el-Oued on the N., with the Sûk or Market Street (now Rue Bab-Azoun and Rue Bab el-Oued) as its nucleus. Between these two gates ran the old Turkish wall, on whose site lie the Boul. Gambetta (Pl. B, C, 3), on the S., and the Boul. Valée (Pl. C, 2), on the N. The French ramparts constructed in 1845 extended the town as far as the present Boul. Laferrière (Pl. C, 4, 5) to the S., and to the Boul. du Général Farre to the N. (Pl. C, 1). Since the demolition of these fortifications in 1904 the industrial suburbs on the coast and the lofty villa-suburbs, Quartier d’Isly (Pl. B, 4, 5), Télemly (Pl. A, 5, 6), and Mustapha-Supérieur (Pl. A, 7, 8), which last is little frequented except in winter, have all been brought within the precincts of the town.

a. Lower Quarter of the Old Town.

The chief business parts of the town are the arcades, with their numerous shops, in the Rue Bab-Azoun (Pl. C, 2, 3) and Rue Bab el-Oued (Pl. C, 2; p. [224]), the Place du Gouvernement (Pl. C, 2; p. [223]), the focus of all the tramways, and above all the spacious Place de la République (Pl. C, 3), with the gardens of Square Bresson (band, see p. [220]), adorned with bamboos and magnolias, the Théâtre Municipal (p. [220]), and the most showy cafés. Between these two places and the sea, at a height of 65 ft. above the quay and its warehouses, run the uniform rows of houses of the Boulevard de France (Pl. D, 2; p. [223]), the Boulevard de la République, completed in 1866, and the Boulevard Carnot (Pl. C, 3, 4), with the new Préfecture (Pl. 23; C, 4) in the Moorish style (1910). These streets, together 1 M. long, form a coast-promenade, whence in clear weather we enjoy a splendid *View of the blue bay, the Atlas Mts. of Blida, and the distant Jurjura chain (p. [258]). In stormy weather, however, the Rampe de l’Amirauté (Pl. D, 2; p. [223]) and the Boul. Amiral Pierre (Pl. C, D, 1, 2; p. [224]) attract many walkers.

The sole Harbour, prior to the French period, was the Ancien Port, or Darse de l’Amirauté (Pl. D, 2), constructed by Kheireddin Barbarossa, once a nest of piratical vessels, and now a torpedo-boat station and anchorage for yachts and fishing-boats. The new Port de Commerce and Port Militaire, 213 acres in area, with the Quai de la Marine, which was extended in 1908, have been formed since 1848 at a cost of 46 million francs. They are protected by the wave-beaten Jetée du Nord, 984 yds. long, the prolongation of the old Jetée of Kheireddin (comp. p. [221]), and by the Jetée du Sud, 1350 yds. in length. The entrance is 268 yds. in breadth. A second commercial harbour, the Arrière-Port (Pl. C, D, 5, 6), was begun in 1898, but is still uncompleted.

The harbour is approached by the Rampes Magenta, descending from Boul. Carnot to the principal railway-station (p. [217]), by the Rampes Chasseloup-Laubat, connecting the Boul. de la République with the Douane (Pl. D, 3) and with the warehouses and offices of the French steamboat-companies, and by the Rampe de l’Amirauté (Pl. D, 2), on the old Jetée of Kheireddin. This jetty or quay, the oldest of all, connects the old Porte de France on the mainland (once the Turkish sea-gate) with what was once the island of Peñón (p. [221]), now the Presqu’île de l’Amirauté. Walkers may descend also by the Escaliers du Bastion Central, opposite the Square Bresson (p. [222]), or from the Place du Gouvernement by the Escaliers de la Pêcherie, past the mosque of that name and the Fish Market, which is worth seeing in the early morning.

On the Quai du Nord, between the approach to the fish-market and the old Porte de France, a pretty Turkish Fountain has been preserved. Adjoining the neo-Moorish Palais de l’Amirauté (Pl. D, 2) is the Turkish Gate, with two heraldic animals (panthers?), an interesting relic of the Bordj Ras el-Moul which was burned down in 1816. We notice also several muzzle-loading guns built into the wall, now serving as bulkheads or as posts for mooring vessels. Visitors are not admitted to the Phare (Pl. D, 2; lighthouse), a relic of the Turkish fort erected in 1544 on the site of the Spanish castle of Peñón, nor to the small Station Zoologique (Pl. D, 2).

We now follow the Boul. de France, past the handsome Palais Consulaire (Pl. 19, D 2; chamber of commerce, exchange, etc.), to the—

Place du Gouvernement, the noisiest place in the town, crowded with natives at all hours (concerts, see p. [220]). The equestrian statue, in bronze, of the Duke of Orleans (1810–42), a distinguished general in the Algerian campaigns, is by the Piedmontese Carlo Marocchetti (1845). Behind the statue, and half concealed by the Boul. de France, is the curiously incongruous—

Mosquée de la Pêcherie (Pl. 16, D 2; Arabic Jâma el-Jedid, new mosque), erected by Turkish architects in 1660 for adherents of the Hanefite ritual (p. [445]). It is a cruciform building with nave and aisles, a huge central dome tastelessly painted inside, a rich marble pulpit of Italian workmanship, and a square minaret (now clock-tower). Entrance in the Rampe de la Pêcherie (adm., see p. [220]).

A few paces to the E. of the Place du Gouvernement, adjoining the Rue de la Marine (Pl. D, 2), the harbour-street of the Turkish and early French period, is the small Place de la Pêcherie, the site of the pirates’ Slave Market.

Close by is the Great Mosque (Pl. 15, D 2; Arabic Jâma el-Kebîr), the oldest and largest mosque in the town, founded in 1018 for believers in the Malekite ritual, but often altered since then. Both the mosque and its minaret, originally built by the Abdelwadite Abû Tâkhfîn (p. [190]) in 1322–3, have now been modernized. The entrance is by a portico in the Rue de la Marine, erected in 1837 with materials from a mosque of the Jenina (p. [225]), leading into a court, embellished with a Turkish fountain, and to the unadorned sacred building itself, with its eleven aisles or arcades and horseshoe arches resting on low pillars.

The quarter to the N.W. of the Rue de la Marine, between Boul. Amiral-Pierre (Pl. C, D, 1, 2) and Rue Bab el-Oued (see below), is inhabited mainly by Italians and natives and still contains many mediæval features in its sombre lanes and passages. Soon after entering it, we come to a pleasing Turkish House, Rue Duquesne, No. 15, in the small square of that name, with a marble portal and a two-storied court.

The building of the Conseil Général (Pl. 5a, D 2; adm., see p. [220]), close by, Rue de la Charte No. 5, a good example of Moorish-Turkish architecture, with its Renaissance portal, was the British consulate in the Turkish period. No. 29, in the adjoining Rue d’Orléans, has a remarkably rich Italian Renaissance portal.

The short Rue du Quatorze-Juin, the last houses in the Rue des Consuls (Pl. D, 2), occupied by the other European consuls in the Turkish period, and the adjacent narrow Rue Navarin and Rue Jean-Bart, all have the character of the Kasba quarter (p. [227]).

The narrow passage called Rue des Postes leads here to the Rue Volland (Pl. C, 1), the cross-street between Boul. Amiral-Pierre and the Avenue Bab el-Oued (Pl. C, 1). Here, on the right, are the barracks and the Kursaal Theatre (p. [220]), and on the left the Lycée National, on the site of the Turkish janissaries’ barracks.

The Rampe Valée ascending hence to the Kasba quarter skirts the *Jardin Marengo (Pl. C, 1), a public park, laid out in 1834–47 on the site of the Mohammedan cemetery; the grounds, with their wealth of palms, yuccas, and bamboos, climb the hill-side as far as the mosque of Sidi Abderrahmân (p. [228]).

We now return by the Rue Bab el-Oued (Pl. C, 2; p. [222]) to the Place du Gouvernement. Halfway, in the Rue de la Kasba (p. [227]), rises on the right the church of Notre-Dame des Victoires (Pl. 8; C, 2), formerly a mosque (Jâma Bitchnîn, of 1622).

From the W. side of the Place du Gouvernement (p. [223]) the Rue du Divan and Rue du Soudan lead to the small Place Malakoff, on the E. side of which, between these streets, rises the—

*Archevêché (Pl. 1, C 2; archbishop’s palace), the finest and but little modernized relic of the Jenina founded by Horuk Barbarossa (p. [221]) in 1516. In the course of centuries this residence of the beys was gradually extended to the Rue Jenina and the Rue Socgémah, and in 1816 was at length superseded by the Kasba (p. [227]). The entrance is by the Renaissance portal (adm., see p. [220]; apply to the concierge).

The fine court, with its two stories and horseshoe arches resting on slender winding columns, is remarkable for its harmonious proportions. The walls are adorned with tiles of little value, but the rich wrought-iron gratings of the windows deserve notice. The upper story, whose galleries have small domed chambers at the four corners, is adjoined by rooms sumptuously decorated like those of the Alcázar at Seville (p. [61]). We note in particular the lavish ornamentation in stucco, the elegant window-shutters, restored in part, and the beautiful ceilings in cedar and oak panelling. The room converted into a chapel has been materially altered.

The Cathedral (Pl. 3, C 2; St. Philippe), on the W. side of the same Place, built since 1843 in a strangely mingled Moorish and Romanesque style, occupies the site of the Ketshâwa Mosque erected by Hassan Pasha in 1791 (see below). The façade is adorned with two towers resembling minarets. The first chapel contains the bones of the so-called Gerónimo, a Christian Arab (comp. p. [230]), who is said to have been immured alive in 1569.

The Palais d’Hiver du Gouverneur (Pl. 21, C 2; adm., see p. [220]), built by Hassan Pasha (1791–9), like the National Library (see below), is one of the latest specimens of Moorish-Turkish architecture in Algeria; but it has been entirely remodelled to suit its present purpose and has been provided with a new façade. Above the old portal, Rue du Soudan No. 5 (now Bureau Arabe; see p. [174]), is a pretty carved projecting roof. No. 7, next door, has a rich marble portal. The roof affords a good survey of the whole of the Jenina buildings.

To the N. of the Place Malakoff, in the Rue de l’Etat-Major, No. 12, on the left, is the—

National Library (Pl. 2; C, 2), in the old palace of Mustapha Pasha (1799–1805), containing about 40,000 vols. and 2000 MSS. Adm., see p. [220]. Librarian, M. E. Maupas.

Adjoining the vestibule (skiffa), adorned with clustered columns and Delft fayence, on the left, is the two-storied *Quadrangle, similar to that of the archiepiscopal palace. In the gallery of the first floor are views of Old Algiers (including the bombardment by the British fleet in 1824). Adjacent are two small reading-rooms containing a valuable collection of Arabic, Berber, and Turkish MSS. (shown only on application to the curator M. Abdeltif). The charters of the Turkish period also are important.

The Bureaux du Gouvernement, Rue Bruce 10, which once belonged to the Jenina buildings, also are worth seeing (apply to the governor’s secretary). So, too, is the pleasing Dwelling House, Rue Socgémah 12 (now owned by M. Ratto, goldsmith; p. [220]).—The old Dâr Soof (wool-exchange), Rue de l’Intendance 1, one of the most ornate Mauro-Turkish buildings in the town, is now a private house and can be seen only by special introduction.

We now turn to the E. to visit the Rue de Chartres or the Rue de la Lyre (Pl. C, 2, 3), which, like the neighbouring Rue Randon in the Kasba quarter (p. [227]), contain countless little shops kept by Jews and Mozabites (p. [216]). The Marché de Chartres and the Marché de la Lyre (Pl. 14; C, 3) are the chief provision markets. In the afternoon the former is devoted to the sale of second-hand goods. The Rue de Chartres and the two flights of steps in the Place de la Lyre, next to the theatre, lead back to the Place de la République (p. [222]).

To the S. of the Place de la République are the new quarters of the town. At the beginning of the Rue de Constantine (Pl. C, 3, 4), on the left, is the new Palais de Justice (Pl. 20; C, 3), in the pseudo-classical style. On the right is the new-Romanesque church of St. Augustin (Pl. 9; C, 3).

At the back of this church runs the Rue Dumont-d’Urville (Pl. C, 3), passing almost immediately on the left the Rue de Tanger, in which rises the small Mosque of the Mozabites (p. [216]), and leading to the long and monotonous Rue d’Isly (Pl. C, 4). The latter crosses the Place d’Isly. (Pl. C, 4), where a monument has been erected to Marshal Bugeaud (1784–1849), the conqueror of Abd el-Kâder (p. [221]).

Farther on in the Rue de Constantine, on the left, at No. 32 is the Musée Municipal des Beaux-Arts (adm., see p. [220]), containing a small collection of pictures mostly by French painters.

The Rue de Constantine and Rue d’Isly reach the boundary of the old town at the new Post Office (Pl. 22, C, 4; p. [219]), a neo-Moorish building (1910), on the N. side of the Boulevard Laferrière (Pl. C, 4, 5; p. [222]), or Boul. Militaire Sud. To the right, above, are the handsome offices of the Dépêche Algérienne (p. [220]), in the neo-Moorish style. The open space on the left, down by the sea, is destined for the future Central Station.

From Boul. Laferrière to Mustapha-Supérieur, see pp. [231], 230; to Belcourt and Le Hamma, see p. [232].

b. The Kasba.

To avoid the steep ascents in the Kasba Quarter we take the tramway (No. 6, p. [219]) to the Prison Civile, glance at the Mohammedan Cemetery and the Kasba Barracks, and then descend from the Boul. de la Victoire by one or other of the streets (very slippery in wet weather) between the Rue de la Kasba (Pl. C, 2) and Boul. Gambetta (Pl. B, C, 3). It should be noted that all the ascending streets lead to the Boulevard de la Victoire, and the descending streets to Rue Randon or Rue Marengo. Ladies in particular may sometimes gain admission to one of the better Moorish houses (comp. p. xxvi), where they should not omit to see the view from the roof. A walk through the Kasba quarter by moonlight is delightful, but safe only for a considerable party.

The *Kasba Quarter (Pl. B, C, 2, 3), the almost unaltered main portion of old Algiers, bounded by the Rue Randon, Rue Marengo, and Boul. de la Victoire, lies on the hill-side below the Kasba, the old castle and afterwards the residence of the Turkish rulers, and still presents a highly attractive picture of Oriental life, though partly inhabited by Maltese and Spaniards as well as by Mohammedans of various races and creeds (p. [171]). A few streets only, with small mosques, coffee-houses, and shops, show signs of life in the daytime, and that chiefly on Fridays and Sundays. Most of the streets, however, often only 6–7 ft. wide, with their jutting upper stories and balconies supported by brackets of beams, and the numerous blind alleys and sombre vaulted passages are shrouded in silence, while their bare, almost windowless walls and their closed doors, marked with the sign of the warning hand (p. [81]), enhance their impenetrable mystery.

The chief business street of the Kasba is the Rue Randon (Pl. C, 2, 3; comp. p. [226]), especially the S. part of it with its shops, between the Marché de la Lyre (p. [226]) and the Synagogue (Pl. 24, C 2; adm., see p. [220]), a building with a huge dome and three women’s galleries.

The Rue de la Girafe and Rue Caton, the last two side-streets before the Synagogue, ascend to the Rue Kléber (Pl. C, 2), where, at the crossing of the Rue d’Anfreville and Rue du Palmier, opposite an Arabian coffee-house, rises the small Mosque of Sidi Mohammed ech-Chériff (Pl. 17; C, 2).

The Rue d’Anfreville leads to the left to the long Rue de la Porte-Neuve (Pl. C, 2, 3), a street starting from the Rue de la Lyre (p. [226]). A little way down we may visit its side-streets, Rue des Dattes and Rue Médée, and then return by the Rue de la Mer Rouge to the upper part of the Rue Kléber. We may next follow the Rue du Palmier (see above) and the Rue Annibal, or its side-street Rue Tombouctou, to the long and steep Rue de la Kasba (Pl. C, 2), which ascends in steps from the Rue Bab el-Oued (p. [224]) to the Kasba barracks.

The small square at the top of the Rue de la Kasba, adjoining the Boulevard de la Victoire (Pl. B, C, 2), is a resort of jugglers and story-tellers, with their admiring audience.

Passing the Prison Civile (Pl. B, C, 2; on the right), and crossing the moat, we may now visit the Mohammedan Cimetière d’el-Kettar (Pl. B, 2), prettily situated on the slope above the Frais-Vallon (p. [234]).

The Kasba (Pl. B, 2; 427 ft.), originally an octagonal pile of buildings, surrounded by large gardens, was erected by Horuk Barbarossa in 1516, but was afterwards much altered. In 1816–30 it was the residence of the deys (comp. p. [221]), and now serves as the Zouave barracks. The large two-storied quadrangle in the Mauro-Turkish style is a relic of the original building. The old mosque is now used as a storehouse. Adm., see p. [220].

The road to El-Biar (p. [234]) leads through the Kasba and then traverses the old Quartier des Tagarins (comp. p. [221]), which extended to the Porte du Sahel (Pl. B, 3).

From the Prison Civile the steep Boulevard Valée (Pl. C, 2; p. [222]) leads back to the town, the lower part commanding a superb *View of Algiers and its bay.

This boulevard joins the Rue Marengo, opposite the Medersa (Pl. C, 2; adm., see p. [220]), opened in 1904, one of the three recently founded Mohammedan colleges of Algeria, a building in an appropriate neo-Moorish style. No. 46, nearly opposite, is the pretty little Medersa of the Turkish period.

The *Mosque of Sidi Abderrahmân (Pl. 18, C 2; adm., see p. [220]), built in 1696 and dedicated to the learned marabout Sidi Abderrahmân et-Tsalbi (1387–1468), the chief saint of the Tsaliba (p. [221]), has no attraction beyond its elegant minaret, adorned with coloured tiles; but its situation near the Jardin Marengo (p. [224]), and the charming view it commands, are most impressive. The kubba of the saint is bedecked, as is usual in the case of such tombs, with flags, ostrich-eggs, and other offerings. The small burial-grounds attached are relics of the chief Mohammedan cemetery (p. [224]).

c. Mustapha-Supérieur and Environs.

The narrow coast-plain, here called Plaine de Mustapha, is the somewhat abrupt margin of the Sahel, to the S. of the old town, on which lie the Quartier d’Isly, Télemly, and Mustapha-Supérieur, where the white villas dating from the Turkish period, with their superb gardens and luxuriant orchards, are occupied chiefly by English and American residents. This is the favourite promenade of foreign visitors. Tramways Nos. 1, 2, and 3, see pp. [218], 219. To avoid ascents the traveller had better begin his walk at the terminus of line No. 2 or No. 3.

The main street of *Mustapha-Supérieur is the Rue Michelet (Pl. B, A, 5–8), a street nearly 2½ M. long, in line with the Rue d’Isly. The first third of it is uninteresting. It passes the former Académie (Pl. B, 5), situated on a high terrace below the Quartier d’Isly, which was converted into a university in 1909 (1442 students). Farther on the road leads through the suburb of Agha-Supérieur to the (½ M.) so-called Plateau Saulière (Pl. B, 6, 7; tramway-terminus, Station Sanitaire; p. [218]).

The upper Rue Michelet, which, in spite of its steep hills, is the most fashionable drive in Algiers, ascends, partly in windings, past the hotels (p. [217]), a number of handsome villas, and several charming points of view, to the top of the Sahel. Beyond the Scottish Church (p. [220]) at the first sharp bend in the road, rises, behind the view-terrace of the Museum Garden, the—

*Museum (Musée National des Antiquités Algériennes; Pl. A, 6, 7), opened in 1897, containing the finest collection of the kind in Algeria. Adm., see p. [220]. Catalogue rather old (1899). Director, M. Stéphane Gsell.

The Garden contains a dolmen (of the Beni-Messous) from Guyotville (p. [237]), Roman tombstones, vases, etc.

In the Vestibule are views of Old Algiers, from the 17th cent. onwards. Over the inner door is an early-Christian mosaic from Rusguniæ (p. [248]) representing Christ as the Good Shepherd.—The Court contains modern views of Algiers and Arabic, Jewish, and Turkish inscriptions. In the centre is a Roman mosaic from Sila, representing Scylla (p. [155]) and marine deities.—On the right is—

Room I. The cases in the middle and most of the wall-presses contain prehistoric antiquities from the provinces of Algeria and Oran and from the Sahara, including the Flamand collection (1889–90). Along the walls are ranged casts and copies of the graffiti or rock-drawings of Tiout (p. [202]), Moghrar-Tahtàni (p. [203]), etc.; Libyan (early Berber) tomb-stelæ; on the end-wall to the right, a warrior on horseback, from Abizar in Great Kabylia; two cases with relics from Phœnician tombs at Gouraya (some of them imported from Greece); also Punic tomb-stelæ, etc.—In the centre are a fine mosaic from Aïn-Babouch and models of the mausoleum of Le Khroub (p. [273]), of the so-called Tombeau de la Chrétienne (p. [238]), and of the Medracen (p. [274]).—We now pass through R. IV into—

Room II. In the centre are antique marbles: *Torso of a Venus (in the style of the Capitoline Venus), draped female *Statue (replica of a work of the age of Phidias; the head added later), colossal statue of Poseidon (after a Greek original of the 4th cent.), torso of Bacchus, Satyr and Hermaphrodite (after a group of the Hellenistic period; a torso), two elegant decorative pillars, all of these coming from the so-called museum of king Juba at Cherchell (p. [244]); then a colossal bust of Minerva from Khamissa; bronze *Figure of a boy with an eagle, from Lambèse. By the wall next the court is a fragment of a sarcophagus-relief, Warrior with wounded Amazon (Achilles and Penthesilea?). By the back-wall are casts of the chief antiques of Cherchell, marble busts, including Jupiter Serapis and a god of the lower regions, both from Carthage. The wall-cabinets contain Greek and Etruscan vases and fragments of Roman sculptures and inscriptions. Around are mosaics: Boar and panther hunt from Orléansville; fragment of a representation of the Four Seasons, from Lambèse; Europa with the bull, Jupiter and Antiope, Oceanus and Nereids. In the centre is a relief-plan of Timgad (p. [289]).—We next pass through R. V into—

Room III. Among the bronzes in the first case are a mask (3rd cent. B. C.) from El-Grimidi; a statuette of Venus untying her sandal, from Cherchell; adjacent, an early-Christian bronze lamp (5th cent.). Then come cases with Greek, Roman, and Mauretanian coins, lamps, etc. The case by the wall next the court contains early-Christian reliquaries (in terracotta). Along the walls are ranged Roman and early-Christian inscriptions, reliefs, and architectural fragments; by the entrance-wall is the tombstone of a bishop from Mouzaïaville (5th cent.); by the end-wall Roman busts (incl. Hadrian); a slab bearing regulations as to rights of using water, from Lamasba (Mérouana); early-Christian sarcophagus from Dellys (4th cent.).

The corner-rooms (IV and V) contain the Oriental Section (Art of Islam), which has received considerable additions and for which five new rooms are being prepared.

Room IV. Berber and early Moorish works of art. In the ante-room Berber vases, tissues, and wood-carving from Great Kabylia, etc., incl. an ancient Kabylian cradle. In the central case are Berber trinkets, chiefly from Great Kabylia (Dra el-Mizan; work of the Beni-Yenni), and Tunisian vases. Cases with Algerian bronzes and curiosities from Kalâa des Beni-Hammad (p. [270]; stucco-work, fragments of vases). Cases and two wall-presses containing superb Moroccan embroidery (some showing Spanish-Moorish influence), mostly from the region of Fez. A large majolica vase from Palma (Majorca). Also, on the walls, *Carpets from the district of Jebel Amour, from Kalâa (p. [207]), Kairwan, Rabât, and of the tribe of the Rirha (near Sétif).

Room V, devoted mainly to the Mauro-Turkish art of the barbaresques. At the entrance is a marble portal of Italian workmanship. Stands with weapons (some of them in the Louis XVI. style), trinkets, richly embroidered slippers, pistol-cases, cartridge-belts, etc., and also gorgeous feminine apparel. On a stand, with gold embroidery from mosques and saints’ tombs, is placed the cast of the so-called Gerónimo (p. [225]). By the walls are two superb saddles, copper vessels, furniture inlaid with mother-of-pearl, etc.; presses with Algerian *Embroidery (curtains of ladies’ chambers, bath-veils, etc.). By the back-wall, Jewesses’ costumes from Constantine. In the gallery are Smyrna carpets.

In the Rue Michelet, a few paces farther, beyond the Chemin du Télemly (see below), is a small round space with a marble Statue of Mac Mahon (1808–93; governor of Algeria in 1864–70). Opposite, to the left, is the—

Palais d’Eté du Gouverneur (Pl. A, 7), a fine neo-Moorish building with beautiful grounds. Adm., see p. [220].

Farther on we cross the Chemin de Gascogne or Chemin Romain, the shortest route from Mustapha-Inférieur (p. [232]) to the Colonne Voirol (see below). Near the lower half of that road is the Orphelinat St. Vincent-de-Paul (Pl. A, 7), on the site of a villa of Mustapha Pasha (p. [225]), to whom this quarter owes its name.

Following the Rue Michelet farther to the S. we pass, on the right, the new English Church (p. [220]), in the Moorish style. The cost of building, which amounted to 7000l., was defrayed by the French Government in compensation for the site of the former English church which was required for the new post-office (p. [226]).

Beyond the bifurcation of Boul. Bru (p. [231]) the Rue Michelet takes a sharp turn to the N.W. and leads along the margin of the so-called Bois de Boulogne (Pl. A, 8, 9), a sparse pine-wood, to the Colonne Voirol (689 ft.; tramway-terminus, see pp. [218], 219), a monument in memory of General Voirol.

---

One of the finest and easiest walks at Mustapha-Supérieur is the *Chemin du Télemly (Pl. A, B, 6–4), which diverges to the right from the Rue Michelet just beyond the Museum garden (p. [228]) and leads along the slope of the Sahel, halfway up, passing through several verdant ravines (Ravin des Sept-Sources, etc.), to the (1¾ M.) Quartier d’Isly (Pl. B, 4, 5), a charming, loftily-situated villa-quarter. This road affords several splendid views of the bay.

From the Quartier d’Isly we may either descend by the Rue Edouard-Cat and Avenue Pasteur to the lower Rue Michelet and the Rue d’Isly (p. [226]), or we may follow the main road as far as the town-wall, between the Boul. Laferrière (p. [226]) and the Porte du Sahel (p. [233]).

Side-roads connect the Chemin du Télemly with the Campagne Bellevue (see below) on one side, and with St. Raphaël (p. [234]) on the other.

As the road, mostly bordered with hedges, which leads from the Colonne Voirol (p. [230]) to (1¼ M.) El-Biar (p. [234]), passing the Campagne Bellevue (794 ft.) halfway, is monotonous, the Chemin de Maclay, leading from the Colonne Voirol to (1¾ M.) Château-Neuf (p. [234]), is far preferable. It passes through the upper valley of the Oued Knis (see below), verdant with fruit-trees, eucalypti, and pines, runs to the N.W. to the (½ M.) Café d’Hydra, and at the (½ M.) Café-Restaurant du Retour de la Chasse joins the highroad coming from Blida.

A little way to the S.W. of the Colonne Voirol, on the road from Algiers to Douéra and Boufarik (p. [216]), is the beautiful Château d’Hydra, once a country-seat of the Deys, but now private property.

From the Colonne Voirol we may now walk through the Bois de Boulogne (p. [230]), or follow the road to the S.E. in the valley of the Oued Knis, past the sanatorium of Dr. Verhaeren and the Villa des Grottes (curious rock sculptures, among others the expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise), to (1 M.) the poor agricultural village of Birmandreis (354 ft.; Café-Restaur. des Platanes). From Birmandreis we have the choice of two routes. We may walk through the Ravin de la Femme Sauvage (to the N.E. and E.), as the cool and shady lower Oued Knis valley is popularly called, to (1¾ M.) the village of Le Ruisseau (tramway No. 4, p. [219]), ½ M. beyond the Jardin d’Essai (p. [232]). Or we may take the road (to the S.E. and E.), through orchards and market-gardens, and across a fine open hill, to the (1¼ M.) poor village of Vieux-Kouba and (½ M.) Kouba (p. [233]).

From the Rue Michelet the Boulevard Bru (Pl. A-C, 8, 9; p. [230]; tramway No. 3, see p. [219]) leads between villas, affording near the farther end a beautiful view of Algiers, to (¾ M.) the Cimetière de Mustapha (Pl. C, 9), incorporating the English Cemetery. Here at the tramway-terminus the Boul. Bru joins the Chemin de Fontaine-Bleue, a road coming up from Mustapha-Inférieur (p. [232]). We follow the latter road straight on to its junction with the Chemin Shakespeare or des Crêtes, beyond which, in the same direction, the Rue Laurent-Pichat brings us to the (¼ M.) Villa Sesini (Pl. D, 9), superbly situated above Belcourt (p. [232]). Straight on we follow the Rue de Béhagle, a narrow field-road diverging from the Rue Laurent-Pichat; this road after 5 min. leads to the left, through a small oak-copse and past the Fort des Arcades (Pl. D, 9), to the verge of the plateau (*Bench with view) and then, taking the name of Chemin des Arcades, goes on to the hill-garden of the Jardin d’Essai (see p. [232]).

d. The S.E. Suburbs.

The only attractions here are the Mohammedan Cemetery at Belcourt (near the Marabout station of tramway No. 4; p. [219]) and the Jardin d’Essai. It is best to go to the latter by the inner line, just mentioned, and to return by No. 5, the outer line.

The suburbs of Agha-Inférieur, with its railway-station (p. [217]) and the new Arrière-Port (p. [223]), Mustapha-Inférieur, Belcourt, and Le Hamma, together with the adjacent little town of Hussein-Dey, are the industrial quarters of Algiers.

Along the coast, beyond Boul. Laferrière (p. [226]), run the Rue Baudin (Pl. C, 5), in line with the Rue de Constantine (p. [226]), and the Rue Sadi-Carnot (Pl. B-E, 5–8), over 2½ M. long, from which, at the N.E. angle of the Champ de Manœuvres (Pl. C, 7; also a race-course), diverges the Rue de Lyon (Pl. B-E, 7–9), 2 M. in length, the route of the inner tramway-line (No. 4).

The unattractive Rue de Lyon leads to (about ¾ M.) the Cimetière Musulman de Belcourt (Pl. D, 9), the finest Mohammedan burial-ground in Algiers, containing a number of handsome monuments and the picturesque Kubba of Sidi Abderrahmân Bu-Kobrin (d. 1793), a famous Algerian saint, a native of Great Kabylia. Adm., see p. [220]. As a rule only the side-entrance in the Rue Colonel-Combes is open.

The so-called Grotte de Cervantes (Pl. D, 9), with a bust and memorial tablet of the famous Spanish author, who lived in captivity at Algiers in 1575–80, is said to have been his hiding-place when attempting to escape. Ascending a road from the end of the Rue Col. Combes beyond the cemetery, we follow a (5 min.) path to the left, and turning to the left again, somewhat downhill, we reach the (9 min.) grotto.

The Rue de Lyon next leads through the suburb of Le Hamma to the (½ M.) *Jardin d’Essai (Pl. E, 9; adm., see p. [220]), or Jardin du Hamma, the botanic garden of Algiers and at the same time a nursery-garden and public promenade. Founded by government in 1832 and frequently extended, it became the property of the Compagnie Algérienne (p. [219]) in 1878. In wealth of vegetation it vies with the botanic gardens of Palermo and Lisbon, which, however, have been more advantageously laid out. It consists of two sections: a hill-garden on the verge of the Sahel plateau and the main garden in the once marshy, but now extremely fertile coast-plain.

Opposite the S. Entrance of the main garden, in the Rue de Lyon, is the dilapidated Mauro-Turkish Fontaine du Hamma (16th cent.). From this point, near the small Hôt.-Restaurant du Château Rouge, the Chemin des Arcades (p. [231]) ascends to the Hill Garden, a wooded park, with tall araucarias, huge eucalypti, and other trees.

Through the Main Garden a magnificent avenue of planes runs from the chief entrance towards the sea. Halfway is a circular space with a café. The W. half of the garden, to the left of the avenue, is occupied by the less interesting nursery-garden.

The E. half of the garden is intersected by shady walks at right angles to each other. Parallel with the main avenue are the narrower dragon-tree and palm avenue and the magnolia and fig-tree avenue. The chief cross-walks, parallel with the Rue de Lyon, are the date-palm, the bamboo, and the dwarf-palm and rose avenues. From the S. entrance we turn at once to the right into the date-palm avenue, where, from the steps opposite the offices (‘administration’), we have a charming view of the dragon-tree and palm avenue. Then, passing the magnolia and fig-tree avenue, we go straight to the S. angle of the garden, where we are struck with the profusion of tropical plants, outstanding among which are the huge Ficus nitida with its exposed roots and a group of yuccas (the rare Yucca draconis and other palm-lilies). A little lower down, near the artificial island with its aquatic plants, are a group of *Strelitzias and (beyond a tall Livistona australis) a beautiful little palm-grove. We next follow the *Bamboo walk, and from it turn to the right into the *Dragon-tree (p. [30]) and palm avenue, which leads towards the sea. Farther on, to the left, beyond the dwarf-palm (Chamærops excelsa) and rose avenue, is the small Zoologie (adm., see p. [220]), with a few specimens of Algerian animals.

Opposite the N. Entrance, in the Rue Sadi-Carnot, at the station of the outer tramway-line, rises a group of date-palms, where the cafés Oasis des Palmiers and Closerie des Palmiers are much frequented by the citizens in the afternoon (déj. 2½, D. 3 fr.). Beyond the railway line, from the shore near the sea-baths (p. [219]; restaur.), we obtain a delightful *View of Algiers. When the wind is to the N. or N.W. the breakers here are grander than at the Rampe de l’Amirauté (p. [223]).

The Rue Sadi-Carnot ends at the Oued Knis (p. [231]), on the outskirts of the small town of Hussein-Dey (Hôt. de la Gare; railway and tramway station; see pp. [217], 247), where the Tobacco Factory has swallowed up the villa of the last deys of Algeria. The inhabitants (5700) are mostly Spaniards from the Balearic Islands (‘Mahonnais’), who grow early vegetables.

From Hussein-Dey to Maison-Carrée, see p. [247].

From the village of Le Ruisseau (p. [231]), at the end of the Rue de Lyon and at the mouth of the Ravin de la Femme Sauvage, a road ascends in windings to the (1¼ M.) village of Kouba (427 ft.; tramway No. 4, see p. [219]), in a charming, well-wooded site. At the entrance to the village, on the site of a kubba, stands a Church with a long flight of steps. The flat roof of the Grand Séminaire, a training-college for priests founded by Card. Lavigerie (p. [346]; adm. by leave of the Superior), commands an extensive *Panorama of the Mitidja, the Atlas of Blida, and the Jurjura range.

From Kouba vià Vieux-Kouba to Birmandreis, see p. [231].

e. El-Biar and Bouzaréah.

Tramway (No. 6, p. [219]) to El-Biar and Château-Neuf. From Château-Neuf diligence several times daily to Chéraga and six times daily to Bouzaréah (notices are posted in the Place du Gouvernement, at the corner of Rue Bab-Azoun).

A favourite circular trip for one day (motor-cars and carriages, see p. [218]) embraces El-Biar, Château-Neuf, Chéraga, Staouéli-Trappe, Sidi-Ferruch (p. [237]), Guyotville (p. [237]), Pointe-Pescade (p. [237]), St. Eugène (p. [236]), and Algiers. A popular drive for half-a-day includes Bouzaréah, Forêt de Baïnem, Bains Romains (p. [237]), Pointe Pescade, and Algiers.

(1). The road to El-Biar leads from the old town through the Kasba and the Porte du Sahel (Pl. B, 3; comp. p. [228]). Walkers may note two possible digressions. To the left, just outside the gate, a path descends in 10 min. to Boul. Laferrière (p. [226]). To the right, 2 min. farther, diverges the Chemin de Fontaine-Fraîche (Pl. A, 3, 4), the road to (10 min.) the charmingly situated village of Birtraria, whence one may either ascend to the S.W. in 20 min. to El-Biar (see below), or walk to the N.E. through the pretty Frais-Vallon and then descend the Avenue du Frais-Vallon (Pl. A, B, 2, 1), on the right bank of the Oued M’Kacel, to (½ hr.) the Quartier Bab el-Oued (see below).

The highroad passes near the foot of the Fort l’Empereur (Pl. A, 4; 689 ft.), almost hidden by trees. This was the site of the camp of Charles V. (p. [221]), and on it was built the Mulaï Hassan Fort (1545), which was partly blown up by its Turkish defenders when bombarded by the French in 1830. The road then winds up to the tramway station of St. Raphaël (788 ft.), whence a charming road branches off to (1¼ M.) Mustapha-Supérieur (to the left, and after 3 min. to the left again, joining the Chemin du Télemly close to the Hôt. Continental).

The large village of El-Biar (784 ft.), 2 M. to the S.W. of the Porte du Sahel, and the village of Château-Neuf (*Hôt.-Restaur. Mallard, pens. from 6 fr.; a favourite Sunday afternoon resort), lying on the monotonous plateau ½ M. beyond El-Biar, uninteresting in themselves, are the starting-points of the roads to the Colonne Voirol and to Bouzaréah (p. [235]).

A road leads from Château-Neuf to (5½ M. from the Porte du Sahel) Chéraga (650 ft.; Hôt. des Voyageurs, humble), a pleasant village among fruit-trees, and (3 M.) Staouéli-Trappe (p. [237]), situated on a shelf-like terrace above the coast, where the French first encountered the troops of the dey in 1830. The old Trappist monastery founded here in 1843 was purchased in 1904 by the Swiss Consul Borgeaud, who has converted the abbey-lands of about 3000 acres into a model farm (no admittance). The burial-ground contains the tomb of Col. Marengo (1787–1862).

From Staouéli-Trappe a road descends to the N.W. to (1 M.) Staouéli (p. [237]). The highroad joins the Castiglione road at (11 M.) Sidi-Ferruch (p. [237]), a station on the steam-tramway.

(2). To Bouzaréah a new road (2½ M.) leads to the N.W. from El-Biar (see above), through the pretty valley of the Oued bel-Elzar, one of the feeders of the Oued M’Kacel (see above), while the old road (2 M.) leads to it from Château-Neuf (see above), crossing an uninteresting plateau and, about ½ M. short of Bouzaréah, passing the Ecole Normale Primaire.

A more interesting route to (5 M.) Bouzaréah is from the Quartier Bab el-Oued (Pl. B, 1), formerly the N.W. suburb of Algiers, inhabited chiefly by Spaniards. From the Boul. du Général-Farre or Boul. Militaire Nord (Pl. C, 1; p. [222]) we follow the Avenue de la Bouzaréah (Pl. C, B, 1) and the Avenue Beau-Fraisier, in the old suburb of Cité Bugeaud, to the Pont du Beau-Fraisier crossing the Oued M’Kacel. We thence ascend the fine Chemin des Carrières, passing near the blue-limestone quarries on the spurs of Mont Bouzaréah, then through a side-valley of the Frais-Vallon (p. [234]), with its luxuriant vegetation, and lastly mount in windings past the Hospice des Vieillards.

The village of Bouzaréah (1230 ft.; Hôt. de France, humble; pop. 2500), in an open site on the crest of Mont Bouzaréah (1335 ft.), the culminating point of the Sahel, is a favourite goal for excursionists in summer. A road leads to the N.E. from the village, past the Fort de la Bouzaréah, on the left, and the Christian Cemetery, on the right, to (¾ M.) the Observatoire d’Alger (1148 ft.). The roof of the observatory affords a fine view of the Bay of Algiers and of the hills of Great Kabylia as far as Cape Bengut (p. [254]).

From the Observatory we may descend either to the E. by the steep Chemin Sidi Ben-Nour, passing the fort of that name, to the Avenue des Consulats (see below), or to the N. by a steep and stony path to the Vallée des Consuls (p. [236]).

A road leads to the N.W. from Bouzaréah in ¼ hr. to the poor huts of the Village Arabe de la Bouzaréah, on the slope of a flat hill (1178 ft.), overgrown with cacti and dwarf-palms, where we have a splendid *View of the forest of Baïnem, Cape Caxine (p. [237]), the S.W. chain of the Sahel, with the ‘Tombeau de la Chrétienne’ (p. [238]), and Jebel Chenoua (p. [242]), as also of the Blida Atlas with the deep incision of the Chiffa Ravine (p. [215]).

From the Arab village the road descends to the W. to the (1¼ M.) Forêt de Baïnem, the largest wood (1250 acres) near Algiers. We follow the ‘Route Forestière Wendling’, high on the slope of the Sahel, with a fine view of the coast between Pointe Pescade (p. [237]) and Cape Caxine, at first through underwood, richly carpeted with flowers in spring. We then pass through the remains of a pine-forest to the (1¾ M.) Rond des Eucalyptus, a bifurcation in a small eucalyptus grove (straight on is the Route Forestière Mignerot leading to Guyotville, 3¼ M.; p. [237]). We follow, to the right, the beautiful Route Forestière Combe (2 M.), which descends through groups of cork-trees, pines, and eucalypti, past a ravine, to the Maison Forestière, whence it is continued by a eucalyptus and mimosa avenue down to Villas (p. [237]), on the Castiglione road, a station on the steam-tramway.

f. Notre-Dame d’Afrique and St. Eugène.

Tramway (No. 1, p. [218]) to the Hôpital du Dey; thence an omnibus every ½ hr. (1–4 pers. 1 fr. 20 c.; each addit. pers. 30 c.) to the church of Notre-Dame d’Afrique.—Tramway (No. 7, p. [219]) to St. Eugène. The terminus ‘Deux-Moulins’ is only a few paces from the station of the steam-tramway to Castiglione (R. 35).

The tramway through the Avenue des Consulats ends at the Hôpital Militaire du Dey (Pl. A, B, 1), which, with its gardens, occupies the site of a villa of Hassan Pasha (p. [225]). We follow the Boul. de Champagne, and then diverge to the right by the Route de Notre-Dame d’Afrique (½ hr.), a narrow road, shady towards evening, affording splendid *Views of the Bay of Algiers.

The large domed church of Notre-Dame d’Afrique (443 ft.), a pilgrimage-church for sick persons and mariners, founded by Card. Lavigerie in 1872, rises conspicuously on a spur of the N.E. slope of Mont Bouzaréah (p. [235]), above the Christian and the Jewish burial-grounds (see below). From the terrace in front of the church, where the blessing of the sea by the clergy every Sunday at 3.30 attracts many spectators, we survey the coast as far as the Pointe Pescade (p. [237]). Behind the church is the Hôt. Bompard.

The Vallée des Consuls, which has its name from the villas of the European consuls of the Turkish period, a shady and extremely fertile vale above St. Eugène (see below), affords charming walks. A pleasant road leads through it from Notre-Dame d’Afrique, shaded by gnarled old olive-trees. We may thence mount to the Observatory (comp. p. [235]), or else descend in 20 min. to St. Eugène; but the descent viâ Fort Duperré to Deux-Moulins (p. [237]) is very rough and fatiguing.

From the lower end of the Boul. du Général-Farre (p. [234]), beyond the still uncompleted Quartier de l’Esplanade (Pl. C, 1), runs the Avenue Malakoff (Pl. C, B, 1), close to the shore and protected against the breakers by a high limestone wall, leading to the Fort des Anglais, an old Turkish fort on a rocky headland. Opposite, to the left, on the spurs of Mont Bouzaréah, lie the Christian Cemetery and the interesting Jewish Cemetery of Algiers.

Beyond the cemeteries we come to the little town of St. Eugène (Hôt.-Restaur, du Château-Vert, déj. 2½, D. 3 fr.; Restaur. Deux-Moulins; pop. 4800, incl. 500 Jews), with several factories and pretty villas. The tramway-terminus, Deux-Moulins, at the N.W. end of the town, is the starting-point for walks to the Pointe Pescade (p. [237]), the Forêt de Baïnem (p. [235]), and other places.