52. Tunis.

Arrival by Sea. The Quay where almost all the steamers (p. [331]) are berthed is 10–15 min. from the hotels. The Douane is close by. It is best to entrust luggage at once to the hotel servants; if a porter (hamal) is required his charge should be asked (usually 10 c. for small packages, and 25 c. for each trunk carried to the cab or omnibus). Cab (into the town 1 fr., each trunk 15 c.) and tramway (No. 1), see p. [330].

Railway Station. Gare du Sud (Pl. E, 5; Restaurant), Place de la Gare (Rue es-Sadikia).—Railway and sleeping-car office in the town, König & Co. (p. [331]).

Hotels (comp. p. [324]; often full in Feb.-April). *Tunisia Palace Hotel (Pl. c; E, 4, 5), Avenue de Carthage, behind the Casino Municipal (p. [331]), with a small garden, R. 4–10, B. 1½, déj. 5, D. 7, pens. 13–20, omn. 1½–2 fr.; *Hôt. de Paris & Impérial (Pl. a; D, 5), Rue al-Djazira 23bis, R. 3–6, B. 1½, déj. 3½–4, D. 4–5, pens. 9–16, omn. without luggage 1 fr.—*Grand-Hôtel (Pl. b; D, 4), Avenue de France, R. 3½–6, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 4½, pens, from 10, omn. 1 fr.; *Hôt. St. Georges, Avenue de Paris (N. of Pl. E, 2), near the Belvedere Park (p. [338]), suitable for some stay, R. 3–4, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4, pens. 9–12½ fr. (with dépendance Hôt. Suisse, moderate); Hôt. de France (Pl. d; D, 5), Rue Léon-Roches 8, quiet site, pens. 9–11, omn. 1 fr.—Plainer: Hôt. Eymon (Pl. e, D 4; ‘Gigino’), Rue de l’Eglise 1, corner of Place de la Bourse, R. 3–4, B. ¾, déj. or D. 2½, pens. 8 fr., good; Tunis Hotel & de Genève (Pl. f; D, 4, 5), Rue d’Italie 12, R. 2½–6, B. ¾, déj. 2–2½, D. 2½–3, omn. 1–1¼ fr.; Hôt. d’Angleterre, Ave. Jules-Ferry 37, R. 2½–5, B. ¾, déj. 2, D. 2½, pens. 7½, omn. 1¼ fr.; Hôt. Maison Dorée, Rue de Hollande 10 (Pl. E, 5), with restaurant, similar charges; Hôt. Moderne (Pl. g; D, 4), Rue de Constantine 12, corner of Rue de Bône, R. from 3½, déj. or D. 3, pens. from 9½ fr.; Hôt. de la Poste, Rue d’Espagne 5 (Pl. D, 5).—Hôtels Garnis. Hôt. Bellevue (Pl. h; D, 4), Rue es-Sadikia 1; Hôt. Régence (dépendance of the Hôt. Eymon), Ave. de France, R. 3–8, B. 1 fr.; Splendid Hotel, Ave. Jules-Ferry 74; Royal Hotel, Rue d’Espagne 19, R. from 3 fr.; Hôt. Central, Ave. de Paris 8; Family Hotel, Rue d’Allemagne 15 (Pl. D, 5), near the marché (p. [333]), plain.—Furnished Rooms (20–70 fr. per month) abound.

Cafés. Café du Casino, in the palmarium of the Casino Municipal (p. [331]), with a summer terrace in the Ave. Jules-Ferry; Café-Restaurant de Tunis, Ave. de France 2, in the Hôt. Bellevue, much frequented; Café de Paris, same street, No. 16. Arabian cafés (p. [174]) in the Halfaouine quarter (Pl. B, 2), at the Bab Djedid (Pl. C, 6), etc.—Confectioners. Engerer, Place de la Bourse 1; Wagner & Co., Rue d’Italie 24, and Ave. de Paris 8; Montelateci, Ave. de France 7.

Restaurants. *Brasserie du Phénix, Ave. Jules-Ferry 74, in the Splendid Hotel (see above); Café-Restaurant de Tunis, see above; Salvarelli, Ave. de France, adjoining the Grand-Hôtel; Maxéville, Ave. Jules-Ferry 63 (déj. or D. 1½ fr.); Maison Dorée, in the hotel (see above); Restaurant du Rosbif, Ave. Jules-Ferry 56; Restaurant de la Poste, Rue d’Angleterre 8.

Carriages.	Voiture de Place			Voiture de Remise
	With one horse		With two horses
	(2–3 pers.)	(4 pers.)	With two horses
Drive (course) in the town (petite banlieue)	0.80	0.90	1.—	1.60
Outside the town, up to 8 kilomètres (5 M.)	2.50	2.70	3.—	4.50
Hour in the town	1.30	1.50	1.80	2.40
Hour outside the town	1.80	2.—	2.40	3.20
Day (12 hrs.)	12.—	12.—	15.—	20.—

The chief limits of the inner town are the Bardo and the Belvedere Park. From 10 p.m. to 7 a.m. (or in April-Sept. 11–5) a fare and a half is charged. During festivals and races, and also for long drives, bargain advisable. Small packages free; trunk 15 c.—There are also Taximeter Motor Cabs (comp. tariff).

Motor Cars. Auto-Palace, Rue d’Autriche Prolongée 3; Garage Peyrard, Rue de Belgique 10; Tunisienne Automobile, Rue de Grèce.

Tramways (fares by zones, from 5 c. upwards; also transfer-tickets), from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m.: 1. Porte de France (Pl. D, 4), Ave. Jules-Ferry (Pl. E, 4), Ave. du Port, Harbour.—2. Porte de France, Rue al-Djazira (Pl. D, 5, 6), Ave. Bab-Djedid (Pl. D, C, 6), Place de la Kasba (Pl. B, 5).—3. Porte de France, Rue des Maltais (Pl. D, 4), Place Bab-Souika (Pl. B, C, 3), Kasba.—4. Rue al-Djazira (Rue d’Algérie; Pl. D, 6), Rue es-Sadikia (Pl. D, 5; Gare du Sud), Rue de Rome (Pl. D, 4), Ave. de Paris (Pl. E, 4, 3), Place Bab-Souika, Bab Bou-Saâdoun (Pl. A, 2).—5. Place Bab-Souika (Pl. B, C, 3), Bab Bou-Saâdoun, Bardo (p. [339]; every ¼ hr., 15 c.), La Manouba (p. [342]; every ½ hr., 30 c.).—6. Porte de France, Rue des Maltais (Pl. D, 4), Bab el-Khadra (Pl. C, 2), Cimetière Municipal, Belvedere Park (p. [338]; Ave. Carnot, 15 c.).—7. Rue de Rome (Pl. D, 4), Ave. de Paris (Pl. E, 4–2), Belvedere Park (Rond-Point; every 10 or 15 min., 15 c.; on week-days there and back 25 c.), Ariana (p. [338]; every ½ hr., 30 c.).—8. Ave. de France (Pl. D, 4), Ave. de Carthage (Pl. E, 5–7), Bab Alleoua (Pl. E, 7), Abattoirs (to the S. of Pl. E, 7).—For the electric tramways to Carthage and La Marsa, see p. [343].

Post & Telegraph Office (Pl. D, 5), Rue d’Italie 30; branches on the quay and in the Place Bab-Souika.

Steamboat Agents. For the Comp. Gén. Transatlantique (RR. 21, 22), Banque de Tunisie, Rue es-Sadikia 3, and on the Quai Ouest; for the Società Nazionale (RR. 25, 26, 64), Florio, Rue d’Alger 1; for the Comp. de Navigation Mixte (RR. 21, 26, 64), Ave. Jules-Ferry and Quai Ouest; for the Hamburg-American Line, the Hungarian Adria, and the German Levant Line, Siebert & Co., Rue d’Italie 5bis; for the North German Lloyd, Heckmann, see below.

Tourist Offices. Eisen (travel and sport), Rue Léon-Roches 6; König & Co., Rue es-Sadikia; Pernull & Myddleton, Ave. Jules-Ferry 39; R. Heckmann (Universal Tourist Office), Ave. de Carthage, opposite Tunisia Palace Hotel; Lubin, Ave. de France 5.—Comité d’Hivernage, Ave. de Carthage 8.

Consuls. British Consul-General, E. J. L. Berkeley, Place de la Bourse (Pl. D, 4); vice-consuls, Chas. A. Goodwin, R. Schembri.—U. S. Vice-Consul, A. J. Proux, Ave. de France.

Physicians. Dr. Domela, Ave. Jules-Ferry 72; Dr. Valetta, Rue d’Espagne; Dr. Zammit, Rue Amilcar (all three speak English); Dr. Jaeggy, Rue d’Autriche; Mlle. Dr. Gordon, Rue de Rome 18.—Chemist. Heyler, Ave. Jules-Ferry 54 (Théâtre Rossini, Pl. E, 4).

Baths. Dublineau, Rue d’Allemagne 17 (Pl. D, 5; well fitted up; bath 1½, Turkish 3 fr.); Bains Français, Rue de Suisse 8; Bains Maures (comp. p. [175]), Ave. Bab-Menara.

Banks (comp. p. [174]). Banque de l’Algérie, Rue de Rome 18; Comp. Algérienne, Rue de Rome; Banque de Tunisie, Rue es-Sadikia 3; Comptoir d’Escompte de Paris, Ave. de France; Cooperativa Italiana, Rue es-Sadikia 7; Krieger, Rue al-Djazira 45.

Goods Agents. Meyer, Porte de France 35; Dana, Rue es-Sadikia 9.

Booksellers. Niérat & Fortin, Ave. de France 15, and Saliba, No. 17.—Photographs (and photographic materials). Lehnert & Landrock, Ave. de France 17, and Garrigues, No. 9; Neuer, Rue Léon-Roches 6; Vella, Rue d’Allemagne 4.—Newspapers. Dépêche Tunisienne, Tunisie Française, Unione (Ital. and Fr.).—Shop for European goods, Magasin Général, Ave. de France 22 (fixed prices). Oriental goods at the Musée Ahmed Djamal, Souk el-Attârîn 11 and Rue d’Autriche 108; Pohoomull Frères, Ave. de France 17. The Oriental articles in the Souks (pp. [335]–337) and even the fezes (chechia) are mostly of European make and may be bought cheaper at home. Important purchases should not be made without the aid of a friend who knows the country and its ways (bargaining necessary). The services of touts, guides, and hotel servants should be declined, as they tend to raise prices.

Theatres. Théâtre du Casino Municipal, in the Casino Municipal (see below), entrance in the Ave. Jules-Ferry, for operas and operettas, 15th Nov. to 15th April; Théâtre Rossini (Pl. E, 4), Ave. Jules-Ferry 48, for Italian and French dramas.—Casino Municipal (Pl. E, 4), Ave. de Carthage 1, with hall for concerts and varieties (‘Palmarium’), a summer terrace, card-rooms, and American bar. The Pavillon du Belvédère, in the park of the Belvedere (p. [338]), is the summer casino of the same company.—Band on Sun. and Thurs. afternoons, Place de la Résidence; on Wed. in front of the Cercle Militaire.

English Church. St. George’s (‘Egl. anglic.’; Pl. C, 3), Rue Bab-Carthagène 39, service at 10.15 a.m.

Sights. Bardo Museum, same as Musée Alaoui, see below.

Bardo Palace (p. [340]), week-days, at any hour; tickets at the Musée Alaoui (comp, below).

Bibliothèque Française (p. [333]), week-days 9–11 and 2–4 (in summer 8–11 only).

Dâr el-Bey (p. [336]), daily, 9–11 and 3–5; fee ½–1 fr.

Jardin d’Essais (p. [338]), daily 8–11 and 1–5 (April-Oct. 7–11 and 3–6).

Musée Alaoui (p. [340]), daily except Mon. and great Catholic festivals 9.30–11.30 and 1–4 (16th Feb. to 15th Oct. 2–5), 1 fr. (Sun. free); the same ticket admits to the Bardo Palace also, if visited on the same day.

Two Days. 1st. Forenoon, Ave. Jules-Ferry and Ave. de France (p. [333]); walk through the Souks of the Medina (p. [335]) and the adjoining Mohammedan Quarters (p. [334]); visit to Place el-Halfaouine (p. [337]). Afternoon, Bardo Museum (p. [340]) or Belvedere Park (p. [338]), or, by carriage, both.—2nd. Excursion to Carthage, see R. 53.

Tunis, Ital. Túnisi, capital of the Régence de Tunis, and seat of the French Resident-General (p. [323]) and of the Mohammedan university, is the largest city in N. Africa after Cairo and Alexandria, and vies with Sfax as a most important harbour. Population about 200,000, of whom about 115,000 are Mohammedans, 22,500 Jews, 41,000 Italians, 14,000 French, 5400 Maltese, and 250 Greeks.

The town lies in 36°47′ N. lat. and 10°10′ W. long., on the E. margin of the narrow tongue of land (rising to 190 ft.) between the Lac de Tunis (or Lake Bahira, p. [129]) and the small salt-lake Sebkha es-Sedjoumi, an old lagoon. The central part of the sea of houses composing the old town is the Medina, the oldest Moorish quarter, built largely out of the ruins of Thunes, Carthage, and Utica, and now the chief focus of trade and industry. Adjacent, to the N. and S., are two poor quarters, also chiefly Mohammedan, the Rebat Bab-Souika and Rebat Bab-Djazira, formerly N. and E. suburbs. The monotonous European new town in the low ground to the E. of the Medina, exposed in summer to the exhalations of Lake Bahira, is gradually extending from the Porte de France (formerly Bab el-Bahar, sea-gate) towards the harbour. On the brow of the hill to the W. of the old town are the old Kasba and most of the public buildings, almost all built under the French protectorate. Some of these lie outside the Turkish town-wall, once 6000 yds. long, erected in the 17th century.

Tunis, the ancient Thunes, a Berber name given to an earlier Phœnician colony, appears in history in 508 B.C. as an ally of Carthage. In 395 it was destroyed by rebellious Berber tribes. It was from Thunes that Agathocles (p. [163]) and Regulus (p. [345]) advanced against Carthage, and here, after the first Punic war, the discontented mercenaries from Sicca Veneria (p. [360]) established themselves. Tunis was probably destroyed by the Romans at the same time as Carthage (146 B.C.) and rebuilt later. After the downfall of Carthage Utica (p. [353]) entered into the heritage of her proud neighbour, but for a short time only; for from 29 B.C. onwards Carthage resumed her ancient supremacy and continued to flourish down to her second destruction in 698 A.D. This time Tunis was her natural successor. But the nomadic Arabs, being ignorant of navigation, and the Aglabides (p. [323]) preferred Kairwan (p. [372]), which had recently been founded in the heart of the Tunisian steppe; and the succeeding Fatimite and Zirite dynasties favoured the Sahel, with Mehdia (p. [369]) as their new capital, to the detriment of N. Tunisia. At length, under the Hafsides (1206–1573; p. [323]), Tunis became the capital, and rapidly grew to be the greatest and fairest city in the land, as well as a zealous promoter of the glorious Moorish art and science of the 13th and 14th centuries. The most distinguished of the Hafside sovereigns was Abû Abdallah Mohammed el-Mostanser Billah, who in 1270 defended his capital successfully against Louis IX., the Saint (p. [346]). After the decline of that dynasty at the close of the 15th cent. and the capture of Tunis by Kheireddin (p. [221]) in 1534, the city was attacked by the Spaniards in three different campaigns (p. [323]), and was conquered four times by the Turks and the Algerians (in 1569, 1573, 1689, and 1757); yet in the 17th and 18th centuries, thanks to its Oriental trade and the booty of its pirates, it again enjoyed great prosperity.

The only mediæval buildings in the old town which have survived all these vicissitudes are three mosques, now much modernized. The distinctive character of the present town is of Mauro-Turkish origin. Those who cross the threshold of the Orient here for the first time will be specially struck with the narrow and crooked lanes of the Mohammedan quarters, only 12–16 ft. wide, with the motley crowd in the Souks (p. [335]), and with the picturesque concourse of all the tribes of N. Africa and the Sahara. The poor Jewish quarter (p. [337]) is less interesting. The strange costume of the women, with their kufias or sugar-loaf hats, loose jackets, and tight-fitting trousers, is now rarely seen except on members of the older generation, while the pretty, old-fashioned costume of the girls is a thing of the past.

John Howard Payne (b. 1792), author of ‘Home, Sweet Home’, was United States consul at Tunis from 1842 until his death in 1852.

a. The New Town.

From the Harbour (Port; see inset map, Pl. E, 1), which together with the Bahira Canal (p. [129]) was constructed in 1888–96, the short Avenue du Port (tramway No. 1, p. [330]) leads through the Piccola Sicilia, a group of workmen’s huts, into the town, ending at the bronze statue of Jules Ferry (1832–93), the French statesman who brought about the occupation of Tunisia.

The Avenue Jules-Ferry (Pl. E, 4), or Avenue de la Marine, the finest street in the new town, 66 yds. wide and 710 yds. long, is planted with double avenues of fig-trees. On the left, just beyond the divergence, to the right and left, of the unfinished Avenue de Paris (p. [338]) and Avenue de Carthage (Pl. E, 5–7), which together are 2¼ M. long, rises the Casino Municipal (Pl. E, 4; p. [331]).

The Ave. Jules-Ferry ends at the Place de la Résidence (Pl. D, 4; band, see p. [331]), the centre of the new town. To the left, on the S. side, rises the Palais de la Résidence (Pl. D, E, 4), or Maison de France, built in 1856–60 for the French consulate (see p. [334]), and tastefully remodelled in 1890–2 by Dupertuys as a dwelling for the resident-general. The beautiful garden is not accessible. Opposite the Residence is the Cathedral (Pl. D, 4); erected in 1893–7. The Rue es-Sadikia leads to the S. from the W. end of the square to the Gare du Sud (p. [329]).

The Ave. Jules-Ferry is continued by the much narrower Avenue de France (Pl. D, 4), intersecting the older European quarter, the favourite promenade of the town. A little to the S. of it, in the Rue d’Italie, which leads to the Post and Telegraph Office (Pl. D, 5), is the Marché (Pl. D, 5; interesting from 7 to 10 a.m.).

In the Rue de Russie, the southmost street in this quarter, is the Bibliothèque Française (Pl. D, 5; adm., see p. [331]), which is well supplied with literature relating to N. Africa.

b. The Old Town.

At the W. end of the Ave. de France (p. [333]), the starting-point of several tramway-lines (see p. [330]), is the Porte de France (p. [332]), and beyond it lies the Place de la Bourse (Pl. D, 4), which presents a busy scene all day. In and near this square are most of the Consulates (British among others), as during the Turkish period. The old French Consulate (about 1650 to 1860), which served also as a warehouse (fondouk), is at No. 15 Rue de l’Ancienne-Douane.

To the W. from the Place de la Bourse run the two chief thoroughfares of the Medina. To the right is the Rue de la Kasba (Pl. D, C, 4, 5; p. [336]), leading past the Jewish quarter (p. [337]) and the Souk el-Grana (Pl. C, 4) to the upper boulevards (p. [336]), to which it is the chief approach. To the left is the Rue de l’Eglise (Pl. D, C, 4, 5), leading direct to the Souks of the Medina, the main business street of the Christian merchants in the Turkish period.

We follow the Rue de l’Eglise. On the left is the small church of Ste. Croix (Pl. C, D, 4, 5; 1662), to which the street owes its name. Then, on the right, is the Administration des Habous, the headquarters of the Mohammedan pious foundations. Lastly we pass through a vaulted passage under the Direction des Antiquités.

The Rue de l’Eglise ends at the Rue de Djamâa ez-Zitouna, on the E. side of the chief mosque, the Djamâa ez-Zitouna (Pl. C, 5), which is said to trace its origin to the tomb of St. Oliva of Palermo, a Christian saint revered even by many Mohammedans. The mosque was founded in 732 by Obeïd Allah ibn el-Habbab, enlarged by the Aglabide Sijadet Allah I. (p. [374]), and repeatedly altered under the Hafsides. When Tunis was plundered by the troops of Emp. Charles V. the mosque was used as a stable. Since then the edifice has been much modernized, and is lavishly adorned with spoils from Carthage. The chief portal, behind the colonnade in the Rue de Djamâa ez-Zitouna, where on Fridays the clergy receive the Sheikh ul-Islam, or supreme pontiff, and the side-portal in the Souk des Etoffes (p. [335]) have each an ornamental ancient pillar as a lintel. The many-aisled interior, with its 161 columns and two domes over the nave, is similar in plan to the Sidi Okba Mosque at Kairwan (p. [374]). The new minaret, 145 ft. high, erected in the Andalusian style by Si Slîmân Ennigro in 1894, is a free copy of the old tower. The pile of buildings is best surveyed from the roof of the Dâr el-Bey (p. [336]).

The mosque serves also as a lecture-room for the Mohammedan University. The instruction is under the direction of the Sheikh ul-Islam; there are about a hundred teachers and 400 students. Admittance to the twenty-two medersas, or colleges, for students from other parts of the country, and to the library famed for 7000 Oriental MSS. is granted to none but Mohammedans.

The Zitouna Mosque lies in the region of the *Souks (Pl. C, 5; Arabic sûk, market), the market quarter of the Medina, dating from the Hafside period (13th cent.). As usual in the East the lanes are roofed over. The small narrow shops are shut in by a counter, over which the trader swings himself into his seat with the aid of a rope. Most trades have their own streets. It is interesting to watch the people at work in those souks where the wares are made on the spot. The larger bazaars in some of the streets are designed solely to attract foreigners. The busiest time is the early morning. Friday is the Mohammedan, and Saturday the Jewish day of rest. As to purchases, see p. [331]. In and near the Souks are many small Arab coffee-houses and barbers’ shops.

From the Rue de Djamâa ez-Zitouna we turn to the right to visit the Souk el-Attârîn, the spice-market, founded in 1249. Besides the spices and perfumes sold here (such as essence of jasmine and rose-geranium, sometimes palmed off on strangers as attar of roses), we observe amber, dried henna-leaves, henna-powder (p. [108]), and the big candles, often branched, which are used at weddings and for the tombs of saints.—The side-street to the right, opposite the N. side of the mosque, is the Souk el-Blagdjia, for leather-wares.

At the W. end of the spice-market, to the left, opposite the Rue Sidi Ben-Arous (see below), is the Souk des Etoffes, on the W. side of the mosque, with its display of silk and woollen stuffs, carpets from Kairwan, and rugs from the Djerid (p. [386]) and from Djerba (p. [393]).

Adjoining the Souk des Etoffes is the busy Souk des Femmes, the only one frequented by Mohammedan women, where female apparel, trinkets, and slippers of Saffian leather (p. [109]) are sold.

Between these two souks the Souk el-Leffa (Pl. C, 5), off which, on the right, is the Souk el-Kebabdjia (lace), leads to the *Souk Sekajine, the saddle-market, where, among gorgeous caparisons embroidered in gold and silver, we are specially struck with the ornaments worn by horses at the fantasias (p. [99]).

We return to the Souk el-Leffa. Thence, to the left, we follow the short Souk ed-Dziria, past the Hôpital Sadiki (Pl. B, C, 5), destined for natives, to the—

Rue Sidi Ben-Ziad, on the S. side of the Dâr el-Bey (p. [336]). The small Sidi Youssef Mosque (‘Mosquée’; Pl. C, 5), belonging to the Hanefites (p. [445]), with the handsome tomb of the founder and an octagonal minaret, dates from 1610–37.—At the lower end of the street, where the Souk el-Bey branches off to the left to the Place de la Kasba, we turn to the right into the—

Souk el-Berka, the slave-market, which was abolished only in 1842. Down to 1816 Christians captured by the pirates were sold here by auction. This is now the seat of the silversmiths, goldsmiths, and dealers in antiquities, mostly Jews. The best of their gold trinkets are from Paris; the fine silver filigree is Genoese or Maltese; the ancient coins are often spurious.

From the Souk el-Berka the Souk el-Trouk, the street of the tailors, almost all Jews, who make the rich costumes of the Moslems, leads back to the Souk el-Attârîn.

From the N.W. angle of the Zitouna Mosque the Rue Sidi Ben-Arous leads into the Rue de la Kasba (p. [334]). At the junction of these streets, adjoining the burial-chapel of Mohammed Murad Bey (d. 1705), is the Hanefite Mosque of Sidi ben-Arous (Pl. C, 5), of 1654, similar in plan to that of Sidi Youssef (p. [335]), with an elegant minaret.

The Rue de la Kasba ends at the Place de la Kasba (Pl. B, C, 5), with its charming grounds.

On the S. side of this square rises the Dâr el-Bey (Pl. B, C, 5), the largest pile of buildings in the Medina, erected in 1810 on the foundations of a Roman theatre(?) by Moroccan architects under Hamuda Bey as his town-palace. It is now the seat of the French secretary-general and other authorities. The Bey usually comes hither on Monday mornings from La Marsa (p. [351]) for the transaction of business. Admittance, see p. [331]. The entrance is by the portal where a sentry is posted.

The covered quadrangle (patio) on the first floor forms the centre of the palace. The fine timber ceiling in the dining-room is the only object of interest in the state apartments. The council-chamber of the ministers has a dome with remarkably fine stucco-work. Here, as in the Bardo and at Kassar-Saïd, the effect is marred by European gewgaws.

Fine *View from the flat roof over the white houses of the town, the Zitouna and many smaller mosques. Best light at and after noon.

To the W. of the Place de la Kasba, at the junction of the two upper boulevards Bab-Benat (Pl. B, 4; p. [337]) and Bab-Menara (Pl. B, C, 5, 6), the old town culminates in the Kasba (Pl. B, 5), an extensive group of barracks on the site of the palace of the Hafsides and the Turkish citadel. The Kasba Mosque, with its fine minaret, well restored in 1904, dates from 1231–5.

Near the old Bab-Menara, where the Souk des Sacs diverges to the reservoir of the waterworks (p. [339]), is the small Mosquée el-Ksar (Pl. C, 5), the oldest in Tunis, said to have been founded by Hassan ibn en-Nôman (p. [322]). The handsome minaret (1545) is an addition of the Turkish period.

On the N. side of the mosque runs the Rue du Château. No. 3 is the Division d’Occupation (Pl. C, 5), the seat of the French commandant, formerly the *Dâr-Hussein (18th cent.; well restored in 1876), one of the finest Mauro-Turkish palaces in Tunis. (Adm. by special introduction only.)

The Rue des Andalous (Pl. C, 5), which begins here, and its side-street Rue du Riche are the aristocratic streets of the Medina. Many of the houses have elegant marble portals and artistically grated windows. Parallel, on the E., leading to the Avenue de Bab-Djedid, runs the long Rue Tourbet el-Bey, in which at No. 62, at the corner of the Rue Sidi-Zamouhl, rises the Tourbet el-Bey (Pl. C, 6), the domed tomb of the Husseinites (p. [323]; ladies sometimes admitted).

The Rue Sidi Kassem, the next side-street on the left, leads to the Djamâa Djedid (‘new mosque’), or Mosquée des Teinturiers (Pl. C, 5, 6), founded by Hussein Ali ben-Turki (p. [323]). The modern minaret is by Si Slîmân Ennigro (p. [334]).

The open space near the dilapidated Bab Djedid (Pl. C, 6), dating from 1277, is an afternoon haunt of snake-charmers and story-tellers (5–10 c. to the boy soliciting money).

Between the Bab Djedid and the Place aux Chevaux (Pl. B, 6; p. [339]) is the Market Quarter of Rebat Bab-Djazira (p. [332]), containing the Souk el-Aâssar, the Souk des Armes, and the Marché-au-Blé.

From the Bab Djedid we return to the Place de la Kasba (p. [336]; tramway No. 2, see p. [330]).

In the Boulevard Bab-Benat, in an old Moslem cemetery on the right, is the Tekia (Pl. B, 4, 5), a home for the aged (1905). On the left, founded in 1876, is the Collège Sadiki (Pl. B, 4), a high school for Moslems. Farther on rises the handsome Palais de Justice (Pl. B, 4; 1901). These two buildings are in the neo-Moorish style.

We may now proceed direct to the Place Bab-Souika (see below; tramway No. 3, p. [330]); but it is better to take the less direct route through the N.W. part of the Medina, by the Rue du Lutteur (diverging to the right from Boul. Bab-Benat, a little before the Palais de Justice), Rue du Pacha (Pl. B, 4), Rue de la Hafsia (Pl. B, C, 4), Rue Achour (Pl. C, B, 4, 3; with the Hanefite Mosque of Sidi Mohammed Bey on the left), Rue el-Monastiri, and Rue Sidi-Mahrez.

On the left, in the last-named street, rises the *Mosque of Sidi Mahrez (Pl. B, 3), with several domes in the Turkish style, built in the latter half of the 17th cent., resembling in the interior the Ahmed Mosque of Constantinople (p. [550]). The square minaret was added early in the 19th century.—On the right is the school or Zaouïa Sidi Mahrez.

The picturesque Place Bab-Souika (Pl. B, C, 3) lies between the Medina and the poor Rebat Bab-Souika (p. [332]). Executions took place here in the Turkish period. The Rue el-Halfaouine (‘alfa street’), partly vaulted over, and lined with butchers’ shops, leads hence to the lively and industrious—

Place el-Halfaouine (Pl. B, 2), with its numerous Arab cafés, where on Mohammedan festivals, such as Ramadan (p. [447]) and Bairam, the evenings and nights are spent in mirth and frolic. On the W. side is the Djamâa Sahab et-Taba (Pl. B, 2), one of the largest mosques in Tunis, founded on blocks of stone from Carthage. The Souk el-Djedid on the N. side is for silk wares.

Time permitting, we may glance at the Rue des Potiers (Pl. C, 3), seat of the once noted pottery of Tunis, or at the Jewish Quarter (Hara; Pl. C, 3, 4), in the N.E. part of the Medina. The chief Synagogues (visitors admitted) are in the Impasse es-Snadli, at the corner of Rue Sidi-Mardoun, in Rue Zarkoun (Pl. C, D, 4), etc.

The interesting Old Jewish Cemetery (Pl. D, E, 3), just outside the old town, is entered from the Rue du Cimetière-Israélite.

c. Environs.

1. About 1¼ M. to the N. of Tunis lies the *Jardin du Belvédère, laid out in 1892, the most popular promenade in the environs, well shaded with palm-trees, but still unfinished. The grounds cover 250 acres on the slope of Belvedere Hill (269 ft.), which was fortified in the Turkish period. The chief entrance is at the Rond Point at the end of the Ave. de Paris (p. [333]; tramway No. 7, p. [330]), and there is a side-entrance (tramway No. 6) in the Ave. Carnot, near the Pépinière Municipale (nursery-ground) and the Cimetière Municipal (opened in 1883).

Halfway up, above the main entrance, rises the Pavillon du Belvédère (café; fine view from the terrace). On the S. slope of the hill, ¼ M. from the Avenue Carnot and concealed amid the thick vegetation, is the Mida, the ruin of a mosque-court brought from the souks of the Medina. Farther up is the *Pavillon de la Manouba, a freely restored Moorish garden-pavilion from the Palais de la Manouba (pp. [342], 343), with fine ornamentation in stucco and a charming view. The top of the hill affords a splendid *Panorama, especially towards evening. To the S. is the old town with the Kasba, the Manoubia Hill, and Fort Sidi Bel-Hassen; more to the right, beyond the Sebkha es-Sedjoumi, rise the distant hills of Zaghouan; to the E. lies Lake Bahira with the island of Chikly, the Ship Canal, and the little towns of Goletta and Rades, backed by the Gulf of Tunis and Cape Bon; then, more to the N.E., rise the hills of Carthage, with the cathedral and Sidi Bou-Saïd; a little to the left, in the plain, lie La Marsa and the Sebkha er-Riana; to the W. are seen the Bardo and the two aqueducts.

Adjoining the Institut Pasteur (1904), on the N. side of the Rond-Point, is the entrance to the Jardin d’Essais (adm., see p. [331]), opened in 1892, with many tropical and subtropical plants. Connected with it is the Ecole Coloniale d’Agriculture, founded in 1898.

The tramway (No. 7) runs on through olive-groves to (3 M.) the village of El-Ariana, once famed for its Hafside palace of Abu Fehr, and now noteworthy for its beautiful roses. It is a favourite resort of the Jews of Tunis, especially on Saturday afternoons, when Jewish musicians and dancers perform at the cafés.

2. A less extensive but more picturesque *View than that from the Belvedere is obtained from the hill, to the W. of the old town, on which lie the decayed Turkish forts of Bordj Flifel and Bordj Rabta (193 ft.). The shortest way to the hill is by the Rue Bab el-Allouch (Pl. B, 3; see tramway No. 3, p. [330]) and through the gate of that name. We then follow the Bardo road (comp. p. [339]), straight on, between the garden of the Hôpital Civil (Pl. A, 3, 4), on the right, and the Ecole Professionnelle Loubet (Pl. A, 4), a technical school, on the left. About 6 min. from the gate we diverge to the right by a field-road, and we reach the top in 6 min. more. Near the forts are numerous dilapidated Silos (rabta), once the bey’s granaries.

The Bardo is about 1 M. farther on, but we now return to the crossroads (see above) and follow another road to the S., leaving the village of Mélassine on the right, to the Bab Sidi Abdallah (Pl. A, 5). Close to this gate is the Château d’Eau or Reservoir (Pl. A, B, 5; visitors admitted) of the waterworks of Tunis, which was substituted in 1859–62 for the Roman aqueduct of Carthage (p. [348]). It is supplied by the main conduit from Zaghouan (p. [359]), 58½ M. long, by an auxiliary branch from the Aïn Djouggar (1276 ft.), 23 M. distant, and (since 1905) by a new branch, 50 M. long, from Djebel Bargou, which flows partly through a tunnel 4 M. in length.

3. The Manoubia Hill (240 ft.) may be reached in ¼ hr. by a road to the S. from the Bab Sidi Kassem (Pl. A, 6), a town-gate 3 min. to the S. of the reservoir. Or we may start from the Place aux Chevaux (Pl. B, 6; p. [337]), whence, near the Collège Alaoui (seminary for teachers), we have a good view of the city and of Lake Bahira, and then follow the Rue Bab el-Gorjani (Pl. B, C, 7). The hill offers a fine view, especially in the morning, of the city, Lake Bahira, the hills of Carthage and Cape Bon; at our feet lies the Sebkha es-Sedjoumi; to the S. rise the hills of La Mohamédia and Oudna, backed by the jagged mountains of Zaghouan.

4. From the Bab Alleoua (Pl. E, 7; station of tramway No. 8, p. [330]) diverge the roads to Rades (p. [363]), Hammam-Lif (p. [363]), and the Mornag (p. [358]). We ascend across the Cimetière Sidi Bel-Hassen (Pl. E, 7), the largest Mohammedan cemetery of Tunis, now desecrated and therefore open to ‘unbelievers’, to the (12 min.) Zaouïa Sidi Bel-Hassen, where we enjoy a charming view of the city and Lake Bahira. The mosque, where many of the former beys’ wives are buried, stands on the site of a cavern which was for many years inhabited by the Moroccan saint Sidi Bel-Hassen ech-Chadly, the founder of the Chadlya brotherhood. The beautiful view from the top of the hill (240 ft.), a little apart from the small Fort Sidi Bel-Hassen, resembles that from the Manoubia Hill.

5. The Bardo, the former winter-residence of the beys, lies in the fertile plain to the W. of Tunis, 1¼ M. from Bab Bou-Saâdoun (Pl. A, 2), and 2 M. from Bab el-Allouch (Pl. A, B, 3, 4; see p. [338]) or from Bab Sidi Abdallah (Pl. A, 5). Starting from the Porte de France, we may go by tramway No. 3 (p. [330]; 5 c.) to Place Bab-Souika, and thence by tramway No. 5 (15 c.) to the Bardo. About halfway we cross the Aqueduc du Bardo, originally Roman, a branch of the Carthage aqueduct (p. [348]), restored by Andalusian Moors in the 16th century.—Those who prefer to go by carriage should drive out past the Reservoir (see above), and return round the N. side of the old town, past the Feskia or Ancien Réservoir (Pl. A, 1, 2; for rain-water) and the Mohammedan Cimetière el-Bsili (Pl. B, C, 1, 2), to Bab el-Khadra (Pl. C, 2).

During the Turkish period the Bardo, like the Moroccan palaces of the present day, formed a little town by itself. It included several palaces of the beys and of the widows of deceased princes, a treasury, dwellings of the court officials, a mosque, baths, barracks, and a prison (zendala), and the whole group was enclosed by a massive rectangular wall. Most of the sadly ruined buildings have been utilized since 1900 as material for the new harbour-works. At the S. end the outer wall has disappeared. From the tramway station we enter the pretty grounds (1903) to the right. Immediately to the left is the way to the remains of the chief palace of the beys, and beyond it, on the left, to the Museum. Straight ahead rises the ruin of a domed building; beyond it are the mosque and the prison (now a reformatory for natives).

The Palace of the Beys, erected after 1782 by Hamuda Bey (p. [336]), contains several objects of interest, apart from its tasteless European furniture and poor pictures. Adm., see p. [331].

We enter by a flight of steps, adorned with marble lions of mediocre Italian workmanship, and through a vestibule with delicate decoration in stucco. The anterior colonnaded court is adjoined on the right by the hall of justice, where the beys used to pronounce sentences of death which were immediately carried out close by; opposite to it is the reception-room. A passage to the left brings us to a second colonnaded court. A tasteful marble portal (Italian) leads thence into the Salle des Glaces, which has a fine ceiling and a valuable Kairwan carpet. We then mount the staircase to the First Floor, where the large festal hall is on the right.

The old Palace of the Harem, a creation of the extravagant bey Sidi Mohammed (1855–9), rivalling the Alcázar of Seville (p. [61]) in its wealth of decoration, was carefully restored in 1885–1888 and converted into a national museum.

The *Musée du Bardo, or Musée Alaoui, named after Bey Ali Pasha (1882–1902), containing the rich yield of excavations in every part of Tunisia, is now the finest collection in Barbary. The Moorish and Turkish antiquities were arranged in 1900 in a pretty little adjoining palace under the name of Musée Arabe. Adm., see p. [331]; catalogue (1897) 10 fr., supplement (1906–10) 27 fr.; director, M. Merlin.

Ground Floor. The Entrance Room contains Roman mosaics from Henchir Sidi Djedidi, etc.; family tombstone of the imperial slave Optatus, from the burial-ground of the Officiales (p. [348]). Also, on the right, votive stones from the temples of Saturn at Aïn-Tounga and on Jebel Bou-Kornin (p. [363]), Roman milestones from the Tebessa road, etc.; on the left, Roman tomb-cippi and inscriptions. Then two altars bearing regulations in favour of farmers on the imperial estates: D441. from Henchir-Mettich near Testour (time of Trajan), and D 442. from Aïn-Ouassel (time of Septimius Severus); C 1030. Statue of Concordia from Djorf Bou-Grara (p. [392]). At the end of the room, a much damaged Roman sarcophagus with the Muses.—On the right is—

Room I (Pre-Roman Room). Along the walls are Punic and neo-Punic votive stones dedicated to Baal, Tanit (p. [356]), and other deities; then tomb-stelæ, catapult-balls from an arsenal at Carthage, etc.—At the back-wall of the side-room is a stela from Maktar, nearly 7 ft. high, with a Libyan and neo-Punic inscription.—On the left of the Entrance Room is—

Room III (Early-Christian Room). In the centre, B 53. Font from El-Kantara (p. [394]). Along the walls are mosaics from Tabarca and other places, and sarcophagi. In the show-case, lamps and vessels in clay from Oudna (5–6th cent.).—In the passage to R. IV, terracotta slabs with reliefs, once the mural decoration of churches.

Room IV (Bulla Regia Room), containing finds from Hammam-Darradji (p. [326]): Roman sculptures of the time of Antoninus Pius (138–161), incl. C 1017. A Minerva Polias in the style of a Parthenos with the cornucopia of Bonus Eventus and a mural crown; *C 1018. Torso of Athena; C 1014. Æsculapius, after a Greek original of the 4th cent.; C 1013. Colossal statue of Apollo, after the school of Scopas; C 1015. Ceres; Roman inscriptions.—In the adjoining Room V, terracotta figures from the temples of Baal and Tanit at Bir Bou-Rekba.

On the Staircase, C 1033. Head of Hercules, Roman mosaics, etc.; on the upper landing, C 939. Statue of Apollo from the theatre at Carthage.

First Floor. Room VI, the old inner court (patio) of the palace. In the centre are two large Roman mosaics from Oudna (2nd cent. A. D.): A 103. Bacchus presenting the vine to the Attic king Icarius (A 104. Hare and fox hunt, in front); A 105. Representation of a country estate, with hunting scenes. Between the columns of the portico are Roman statues in marble from Carthage (C 944. Ganymede; C 979. Bacchus; C 924. Juno; C 982. Isis; and others). Along the walls are marble busts and heads, most of them from Carthage.—Adjoining this room on the N. is—

Room VII, formerly the banqueting-room, with superb *Dome carved in wood. In the centre, A 1 Mosaic pavement, about 150 sq. yds., from a Roman villa near Susa (‘Cortège de Neptune’). By the end-walls, A 25–27. Three semicircular mosaics from Tabarca (beginning of the 4th cent. A.D.) representing a country seat with park, stable, granary, sheds, and cellar. By the left side-wall are two Roman mosaics (A 7. Fishing; A 12. Head of Oceanus); A 19. Early-Christian relief with circus-scenes; old Christian *Sarcophagus Mosaics from Tabarca, mostly representing the deceased in the attitude of prayer, between two candles. The wall-presses contain Punic, Rhodian, Roman, and early-Christian lamps. By the back-wall are Roman pottery, and implements in bronze, ivory, and bone. Also a fine bust of Athena from Carthage.—Next comes—

Room VIII. In the centre, bronze armour of Campanian origin (end of 3rd cent. B.C.), found in a Punic tomb at Ksour-Essaf (p. [370]): *E 3. A silver-gilt patera (sacrificial bowl) from Bizerta, weighing nearly 24 lbs., with reliefs (contest of Apollo and Marsyas, sacrifice to Dionysus, Bacchic scene).—In the side-cases are gold trinkets and cut gems, mostly from Carthage. In the window-cases are Mauretanian, Roman, and Byzantine coins. Along the walls are Roman mosaics from Dougga and from *Chebba (A 292. Neptune and the Four Seasons; A 293. Orpheus among the animals); C 1115. The Graces and the Four Seasons (front of a fine marble sarcophagus).

Room IX. In the centre, A 287. The Procession of Bacchus, a large mosaic from El-Djem. Along the walls are Roman mosaics from El-Djem (A 288. Hare-hunt; A 289. Nine Muses; etc.), from Thina (Thænæ), from Susa (A 6. Boat with quaint representation of the water), and from Djorf Bou-Grara (A 301, A 301 bis. Wrestlers). In the corners, C 1026. Torso of a draped woman, perhaps a Victoria, in black marble; C 72. Head of Augustus; C 1027. Head of Hercules (all from El-Djem). In the press on the left, three leaden urns and six admirably preserved glass cinerary urns from the burial-ground of the Officiales at Carthage (p. [348]). In the press on the right, bronze utensils. In the wall-cases, leaden and bronze objects from Carthage and Hammam Darradji; also so-called ‘tabellæ defixionum’, rolls of lead with curses directed against enemies in the circus (found in tombs at Susa). Detached, C 16. Torso of a Bacchante from El-Djem.—We return to R. VI and thence, to the left, enter—

Room XI, formerly the concert-room, containing Roman mosaics. In the centre, A 166. Mosaic pavement from Medeïna, showing the different kinds of Roman trading vessels; also the heads of a river-god and of Oceanus. By the entrance-wall, A 171. Temple (containing statues of Apollo and Diana, and hunting scenes) from Carthage. By the wall opposite, A 162. A seriously damaged representation of a banquet (4th cent. A.D.) from Carthage.—The opposite—

Room XII was formerly the dining-room. The presses contain relics from Punic tombs (some of them imported, Egyptian, Greek, and Etruscan). In the two central cases, terracotta-masks (to avert evil spirits), which also were among the objects buried with the dead.—A door on the same (W.) side of R. VI as that to R. XII gives access to three rooms (XIV-XVI) containing objects discovered at the bottom of the sea near Mehdia (see p. [370]) in 1907–10.

Room XIV. A bronze *Hermes of Dionysus, in an archaic style, by Boëthus of Chalcedon (according to the inscription; 2nd cent. B.C.). On a shelf are remains of a large bronze capital with two female heads. In the glass-cases are two bronze lamps with the figure of a runner; numerous bronze statuettes, among others an Eros playing a lyre, two female dancers, a buffoon, Satyr, and actors; bronze utensils.

Room XV. In the centre, a bronze *Statue of a winged Eros (4½ ft. high). Along the walls, a leaden anchor; terracotta amphoræ, bars of lead with stamps in Latin, flour-mills; in the glass-case, a terracotta lamp with its wick still preserved.

Room XVI (marble objects). Large mixing bowls (‘crateræ’), adorned with Bacchic subjects; candelabra in the neo-Attic style; capitals; Greek inscriptions; busts and heads, among which should be noted, in the middle, a well-preserved Aphrodite; torsos and statuettes.

We return to R. VI and descend five steps into—

Room XIII, an octagonal *Domed Chamber (formerly the bey’s bedroom), with four side-rooms richly adorned with stucco and tiles (once occupied by his four favourite wives). In the centre, A 10. Roman mosaic from Bir-Chana, with the gods of the seven days of the week and the signs of the zodiac. In the right wing, *A 266. Roman mosaic from Susa, Virgil writing the Æneid. In the wing opposite the entrance, C 4. Torso of a Satyr pouring out wine (after Praxiteles). In the left wing, *C 969. Ceres, from Carthage, with traces of painting; also C 970, C 971. Two draped female statues.—In the corner-room on the right, without number, Large alabaster vase from Carthage with haut-relief (head of Bacchus with vine-wreath).—In the corner-room on the left are terracotta figurines from Susa.

In the Gallery of R. VI (p. [341]) are a relief-map of Carthage, models of buildings in Carthage, Dougga, Le Kef, Oudna, Sbeïtla, and Djorf Bou-Grara; also photographs of Tunisian monuments.

From the staircase (p. [341]) we enter the Musée Arabe. In Room I, tastefully decorated in stucco, are mural tiles from Tunis, Nabeul (p. [365]), and Morocco, and knotted carpets from Kairwan. The side-rooms contain metal-work, enamelled vessels, wood-carving, weapons, etc.

In the Court (patio) are mural tiles; in the small side-rooms on the left, costumed figures, national garbs, and models in stucco.

In Room II, furniture (incl. a sumptuous bed) and embroidery (incl. haïtis, velvet hangings with gold and silver embroidery). In the side-rooms are Tunisian (from Djerba and Moknine) and Algerian trinkets; also beautiful Kairwan carpets.

Behind the Bardo is Kassar-Saïd, a château of the bey (no admittance). Here, in 1881, was concluded the Bardo Treaty, which ended the independence of Tunisia.

The highroad goes on, past the Hippodrome of Kassar-Saïd (races in spring), to (2½ M.) La Manouba (rail. station, see p. [329]; tramway No. 5, see p. [330]), a group of decayed Moorish country-houses with fine orange-gardens. The Palais de la Manouba (now cavalry-barracks) was once the country-seat of Hamuda Bey (p. [336]). The kubba of Lalla Manouba attracts many pilgrims.

From Tunis to Dougga, see R. 55; to Zaghouan, Le Kef, and Kalaâ-Djerda, see R. 56; to Rades, Hammam Lif, and Susa, see R. 57; to Bizerta, see R. 54; to Malta, see R. 63; to Tripoli (Syracuse), see R. 64.