66. From Tripoli to Constantinople viâ Derna and Crete.
Between Tripoli and Constantinople there is a fortnightly service by the Società Nazionale (Line VIII: Catania, Syracuse, Benghazi, Constantinople; comp. R. 64). Dep. from Tripoli every second Mon. aft., from Mesurata Tues. morn., from Benghazi Thurs., from Derna Frid. noon, from Canea Sat. night, from Candia Sun., from Smyrna Mon. midnight, arr. at Constantinople Wed. morn. (returning from Constantinople Mon. night, arr. at Tripoli the second Wed.); fare 117 fr. 60 or 78 fr. 40 c.—From Canea to the Piræus (for Athens) there are corresponding steamers of the Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co., of the Thessalian line of the Austrian Lloyd, and of Line X (p. [493]) of the Società Nazionale.
For the voyage from Tripoli to Derna, see R. 65. The steamer next touches at Crete (Gr. Krētē, Turk. Kirid, Ital. Candia), the fourth-largest island in the Mediterranean (5402 sq. M.; 303,550 inhab.), formerly Turkish, but nominally independent since 1908.
Nearing the island we first sight the Aspra Vuná (Madaraes Mts., 7907 ft.), generally snow-clad, the ancient Leuka Orē (White Mts.). The vessel steers round Cape Krio, the S.W. point of Crete, and Cape Busa, the N.W. point, and passes the island of Grabusa.
We next proceed to the E.N.E., past Kisamo Bay and Cape Spada (Psakon), the N. point of the island. Beyond the cape opens the broad Bay of Canea (Gr. Chanía).
In favourable weather the steamer anchors in the open roads of Canea (Hôt. de France, pens. 8–10 fr.; Hôt.-Restaur. Bristol, pens. 5–8 fr.; at both it is advisable to ask charges; Brit. cons.-gen., R. Peel; pop. 21,000), the capital of Crete, on the site of Kydonia. The remains of the Venetian fortifications are interesting. Fine view from the lofty reservoir of the waterworks. Most of the consuls reside at Chalepa, the E. suburb.
In stormy weather the steamers round the broad headland of Akrotiri (once Kyamon) and anchor in Suda Bay, the only good harbour in the island. (Road to Canea.)
After leaving Canea and passing Cape Drépano we have a pleasant view of Harmyro Bay and Rethymno, Ital. Rétimo (pop. 9300), the ancient Rhithymna, now the third-largest town in Crete. In the heart of the island tower the Psiloriti Mts., the ancient Ida, often snow-clad, culminating in the Stavros (8065 ft.).
Farther on we pass Cape Stavros, an important landmark. We then steer to the S.E., between Cape Panaghia and the barren island of Dia, Ital. Standia (870 ft.), where vessels seek refuge from northerly storms, into Candia Bay and anchor in the roads a little off the quay (lighthouse).
Candia (Hotels, both near the landing-place: Cnossos, pens. 9–15 fr., with restaurant; Angleterre, rooms only, unpretending; advisable to ask charges at both; Brit. vice-cons., A. Calocherino; pop. 22,480), Gr. Herákleion, formerly Megalókastron, the seat of the Metropolitan of Crete, is said to have been founded by the Moors on the site of Herakleion, the port of Knossos. Here also the fortifications were built by the Venetians, and were bravely defended by their admiral Franc. Morosini against the Turks for three years until he had to capitulate in 1669.
We walk from the landing-place through the main street and past a handsome Venetian palace to the chief square, with the Morosini Fountain. Straight on we come, at the E. end of the town, to an open space, at the N.E. angle of which is the—
*Museum, containing the splendid antiquities excavated at Knossos and elsewhere, illustrating the peculiar development of art in Crete at its prime. The oldest objects belong to the so-called island culture (3rd millenary B.C.) of the bronze period, or early and middle Minoan periods, as they are now called after Minos the legendary king of Crete. To the bronze age belong also the pre-Hellenic antiquities, those namely of the so-called Mycenæan or late Minoan period (middle of 2nd millenary B.C.), which are hardly surpassed by the creations of Greece at its zenith. Particular notice should be taken of the wall-paintings, fragments of a procession, stone vases with reliefs, ivory statuettes of bull-baiters, and the two fayence figures of a goddess grasping a snake.
From the old S. gate of Candia a road (horse 3–4 fr.) leads in less than an hour to the site of Knossos, the ancient capital of the island. The *King’s Palace, excavated here since 1898 by Mr. Arthur Evans, dates from the second or middle Minoan period, but was already half burned down in the Mycenæan period.
The steamer next crosses the Cretan Sea, to the N.N.E., to two islands of the Cyclades (p. [492]): Anaphe (1349 ft.) and Santorin or Thira (1857 ft.), the ancient Thera. Close to Cape Oia (lighthouse) on the beautiful island of Santorin, which is the relic of an old crater (p. [492]), are seen the ruins of Thera, the ancient capital.
Next, on the left, we sight the island of Iós or Niós (2408 ft.). We then pass through the strait between Amorgós (1233 ft.; lighthouse), the eastmost island of the kingdom of Greece, and the small island group of Eremonisia, flanking Naxos on the S.E. side.
The high mountains of Naxos (3289 ft.), the largest of the Cyclades, remain in sight long after we have passed the islet of Donusa (1600 ft.). The islands of Delos, once the religious and economic centre of the Cyclades, and Mykonos (1194 ft.) are only visible in the far distance in very clear weather.
The ship presently nears the W. coast of Nikaria (p. [492]), an island belonging to the S. Sporades (p. [490]), and then (as do also the steamers from the Levant) passes through the Strait of Chios (p. [492]) and across the Gulf of Smyrna (comp. p. [530]).
Smyrna, and thence to Constantinople, see pp. [530], 533–536.
67. From (Marseilles, Genoa) Naples to Alexandria and Port Said.
1174 or 1278 M. Steamers (agents at Marseilles, see p. [120]; at Genoa, p. [114]; at Naples, p. [137]; at Alexandria, p. [432]; at Port Said, p. [437]). 1. North German Lloyd: (a) from (Marseilles) Naples to Alexandria, in Jan.-April, on Frid. at noon (from Marseilles on Wed. aft.) in 4 days; returning from Alexandria Wed. aft. (from Naples Sat.); fares from Naples 240–480 or 140–180 marks (from Marseilles 280–520 or 160–200 marks); (b) E. Asiatic Line. (R. 24), from (Algiers, Genoa) Naples to Port Said every second Frid. night (returning Frid.), in 4 days; fare 242 or 176 marks; (c) Australian Line (R. 21), from (Genoa) Naples to Port Said every fourth Wed. night (returning Frid.), in 3–4 days; fare 242 or 176 marks.—2. German E. African Line: E. circular tour (RR. 17, 23) from (Marseilles) Naples to Port Said every third Mon. in 4 days; W. circular tour (RR. 4, 17, 23) from Port Said to Naples every third Sat.; fare 242 or 176 marks.—3. Rotterdam Lloyd, Batavia Line, from Marseilles every second Thurs. direct to Port Said (returning Tues.) in 5 days.—4. Nederland Royal Mail, Batavia Line, from Genoa direct to Port Said in 5 days.—5. Messageries Maritimes, S. Mediterranean Line, from Marseilles direct to Alexandria (Port Said, Jaffa, Beirut, R. 72), every Thurs. noon (returning Frid. aft.), in 4 days; fare 315 or 240 fr.; return-ticket (‘interchangeable’), available also for the quick boats of the Austrian Lloyd (R. 68), 603½ or 433¼ fr.—6. Società Nazionale, Line V (Genoa to Alexandria), from (Genoa, Leghorn) Naples on Thurs. aft. to Alexandria (returning Thurs. aft.), in 4 days; fare 252 or 172½ fr.
The great liners of the P. & 0., Orient Royal, Royal Mail, White Star, Bibby, and other British companies are almost exclusively for through-passengers from Gibraltar or Marseilles to Port Said, India, Australia, etc.
From Marseilles and Genoa to Naples, see RR. 23, 24; from Naples to the Straits of Messina, see R. 27.
On the left, beyond Messina, are seen the ruins of Reggio (p. [159]), at the foot of the Aspromonte, the S. point of Calabria.
Leaving the Straits of Messina, we steer across the Ionian Sea, to the E.S.E., in a direct line for Egypt. Mt. Ætna (p. [159]) remains long in sight. For two days we lose sight of land. The mountains of Crete (p. [415]) are visible on the voyage to Alexandria only in perfectly clear weather; but on the voyage to Port Said we pass within a few miles of Crete and near the island of Gavdos, Ital. Gozo (1063 ft.; lighthouse), which flanks Crete on the S.W.
On the Alexandria Voyage, nearing land, we overlook the long isthmus of Lake Mareotis (p. [432]), from the sand-hill near Abusîr, on the E. shore of the Arabian Gulf (p. [415]), to Ramleh (p. [436]) and Fort Abukîr on the W. shore of that gulf. The chief landmarks are the lighthouse of Râs et-Tîn (p. [434]) and Fort Cafarelli or Napoléon (p. [434]).
We pass through the strait of Boghaz, amidst the chain of cliffs between Râs et-Tîn and the fortified Marabout Island, and sight the two lighthouses of El-Meks in succession. Lastly we steer through the outer harbour, with its breakwater, and past the New or Gabbari Mole (Môle aux Charbons), 1000 yds. long, into the inner harbour of Alexandria (comp. p. [434]).
On the Port Said Voyage the flat coast of Egypt is generally approached at night. We first sight the lights of Damietta, on the E. bank of the Damietta branch of the Nile, the ancient Phatnitic Arm. This and the Rosetta arm are now the only mouths of the river, which had seven in ancient times.
A conspicuous landmark is Fort Jemil, between the former Mendesian and Tanitic mouths. It rises on the low downs flanking Lake Menzaleh (970 sq. M.), the largest lagoon in the Nile delta.
The entrance to Port Said (p. [436]), 766 yds. in breadth, is marked by a lighthouse, several minor lights, and a number of buoys. On the W. pier (r.) rises the Lesseps monument (p. [437]).