PART III
Read Carefully. To make this test of greatest value to you, write fully from your personal standpoint and experience. Try as many methods given in the text as your time will allow so that you may ask for explanation if the descriptions are not clear to you. Methods are many; if you do not agree with these given, suggest better ones.
1. (a) What are the requisites for good dressmaking? (b) How does dressmaking differ from white sewing in make, finish, and ornamentation?
2. From your point of view what do you consider a successful garment?
3. Give methods of altering patterns.
4. Give briefly the cutting and making of a wool garment from patterns: (a) waist, (b) sleeve, (c) skirt, (d) collar, including methods of stitching, pressing and finish, stating how patterns should be placed on lining and outside materials.
5. How may pressing be done to give the best results? What garments require little or no pressing, and why?
6. (a) State some of the principles and purposes of ornament. (b) What is your idea of ornament applied to garments? (c) Give some errors in ornamentation not named in text.
7. Cut from magazines illustrations showing your idea of good and faulty ornamentation in dress. Give reason for your opinion.
8. Illustrate in some way, either by picture, drawing, embroidery, braid, or stitching, some design appropriate for ornament work on neck or sleeve.
9. Where should ornament be placed, and why?
10. (a) Give your idea of appropriate design on textiles. (b) The advantage and disadvantage of plain materials.
11. Make a color card of silk, wool, paper or raffia showing colors that contrast. (b) Colors that harmonize.
12. What colors do you find satisfactory for your own wear, and why?
13. What materials are best suited for infants' garments? (b) What can you say in regard to children's clothing?
14. What is your opinion of the care of clothing? (b) What experience have you had in cleaning (a) cotton, (b) wool, (c) linen, (d) silk, (e) velvet?
15. Do you consider it economy to repair garments? Can you suggest better methods than those given in the text?
16. If possible make some garment, shirt waist, skirt, or simple dress while studying this lesson and describe in detail how you went about it, the result, time taken, total cost. Tell why you selected the design, the color, the material.
17. Have you found the ready made garments satisfactory in underwear and dresses?
18. Tell of some of your failures in dressmaking and give the reasons for your lack of success.
19. What methods, new to you, have you tried in connection with this lesson? What questions have you to ask?
20. Can you add any suggestions that would be helpful to others in this work?
21. Wherein have the lessons been of practical value to you?
22. For Teachers. Draw up an outline for a course in sewing to combine two considerations: (a) adaptability to the child's interests and capacities, (b) orderly sequence in the technical part.
Note: After completing the answers, sign your full name.
REFERENCES: ORNAMENT AND DESIGN
Bachelder—Principles of Design in America. ($3.00.)
Brown—History of Decorative Art. ($1.25.)
Carter, Mrs. H. J.—Historic Ornament in Color. (15c. a sheet). Prang.
Clifford—Period Decoration. ($3.00.)
Crane—Claims of Decorative Art. (Out of print.)
Crane—Line and Form. ($2.25.)
Daniels—Teaching of Ornament. ($1.50.)
Day—Application of Ornament. ($1.25.)
Day—Nature in Ornament. ($4.00.)
Day—Ornamental Design. (Out of print.)
Day—Planning of Ornament. (Out of print.)
Day—Decorative Design of all Ages. ($0.40.)
Day—Ornament and Its Application. ($3.25.)
Day—Ornamental Design, Anatomy of Pattern, Planning of Ornament. ($3.00.)
Day—Some Principles of Everyday Art. (Out of print.)
Glazier—Manual of Historic Ornament. (New edition in press.)
Hulme—Birth and Development of Ornament. (Out of print.)
Jones—Grammar of Ornament. ($18.00.)
Prang—Art and Ornament in Egypt. ($1.50.)
Note—The books out of print may be found in some public libraries.
REFERENCES: HISTORY OF COSTUME
Earle—Costume of Colonial Times. ($1.25.)
Earle—Two Centuries of Costume in America, 2 vols. ($2.50 each.)
Evans—Chapters on Greek Dress. (Out of print.)
Fairholt—Costume of England, 2 vols. ($1.50 each.)
Hill—History of English Dress. (Out of print.)
McClellan—Historic Dress in America. ($10.00.)
Planchet—History in British Costume. ($1.50.)
Quegly—What Dress Makes of Us. ($1.25.)
Racinet—Costume. ($2.00.)
Rhead—Chats on Costume. ($1.50.)
Schild—Old English Peasant Costume from Boadicea to Queen Victoria. (Out of print.)
SUPPLEMENTARY PROGRAM ARRANGED FOR CLASS STUDY ON
TEXTILES AND CLOTHING
MEETING I
Primitive Methods
Endeavor to obtain a Colonial spinning-wheel in working order, and get some one to operate it.
If possible, obtain samples of weaving done on a hand loom.
Examine a hand-loom if possible. They may be seen at the manufacturers of rag and remade carpets.
References: Woman's Share in Primitive Culture, Mason, Chapter III, The Weaver. ($1.75, postage 16c.)
Colonial Days in Old New England, by Earle. ($1.25, postage 12c.)
Textile Fibres
Collect an exhibit of raw fibres and fibres in process of manufacture. Send to the U. S. Department of Agriculture, Department of Botany, Washington, D. C., for small samples; to manufacturers of thread; to friends in manufacturing towns.
Test the various fibres by burning. Examine under a microscope with a small hand-glass, if greater power cannot be obtained. Try warm acid—sulphuric, hydrochloric, or oxalic—on the fibres; let the fibres dry. Also try a solution of caustic soda on the fibres.
References: The Textile Fibres, by Matthews. ($3.50, postage 16c.)
Textile Fibres and Cotton Fibre, pamphlets of the American School of Correspondence. (50c. each, postage 4c. each.)
Send for all the Government Bulletins mentioned in the Bibliography, page 104. Note that the free bulletins are obtained simply by addressing the Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C., but the sale bulletins only by sending coin or money order to the Superintendent of Documents, Washington, D. C.
MEETING II
Modern Methods
Visit a textile mill if possible, after studying the text.
Practice home dyeing. Read carefully the directions given by the manufacturers of the dyes. See the booklet "Diamond Dyes," to be obtained at many drug stores, or send for it to Wells Richardson, Burlington, Vermont.
References: Text-books of the American School of Correspondence—especially Textile Chemistry and Dyeing. (Parts I, II, III, and IV, postage 4c. each.)
The Dyeing of Textile Fabrics, by Hummell. ($1.75, postage 12c.)
Bleaching and Calico Printing (containing samples), by Duerr. ($4.00, postage 14c.)
Weaves and Fabrics
Show as many different kinds of weaves as possible. Separate the threads and examine under a hand microscope.
Get the local dry-goods or department store to co-operate with you in getting up an exhibit of samples of standard goods—cotton, woolen, worsted, linen, and silk. Label each sample with the width and price.
Test some of the samples of wash goods for fastness to washing and light, by washing in warm water and soap (or boiling in the soap and water) and expose to sunlight all day for three or four days. Keep a part of each sample for comparison.
(Select a composite set of answers to the Test Questions on Part I and send to the School, with report on the supplemental work done and Meetings I and II.)
MEETING III
Sewing: Plain Stitches
Send to manufacturers for samples showing the process of manufacture of pins, needles, etc.
Demonstrate different ways of making the same stitches; discuss best methods.
Embroidery
Show how all the embroidery stitches are made.
Get up an exhibit of all kinds of embroidery, including Oriental, Japanese, old samplers, etc.
Have members make Model I, First Series.
References: Home and School Sewing, by Patton. ($0.60, postage 6c.)
School Needlework, by Hapgood. ($0.75, postage 6c.)
Manual of Exercise in Hand Sewing, by Blair. ($1.25, postage 10c.)
Topic: Educational Value of Sewing in the Public Schools.
Methods. See "A Sewing Course," by Mary S. Woolman, Introduction ($3.50, postage 20c.), and "The Teaching of Domestic Science in the United States of America," by Alice Ravenhill, pages 9-10, 43-46. ($0.75, postage 12c.)
MEETING IV
Hems, Seams, Fastenings, Darning, Patching
Have all members make models II, III, IV, and V.
Previously assign members to furnish models or examples of all other hems, seams, fastenings, patches, darns, etc., illustrated or described in the text, and as many more as possible.
Machine Sewing
Get the local sewing machine agent to give a demonstration of the workings of the attachments of the machine.
(Select models and answers to Test Questions on Part II and send them to the School, with a report of Meetings III and IV.)
MEETING V
Dressmaking
Get the local dry-goods or department store to lend different kinds of dress forms.
Show how patterns are altered to suit the figure. (See text and "Dressmaking Up to Date.")
As many as possible cut out and begin making a simple shirt-waist or skirt. Show finished garment at next meeting, giving accurate account of cost and time spent.
References: Dressmaking Up to Date, The Butterick Co. ($0.25, postage 8c.)
Sewing and Garment Drafting, by Margaret L. Blair. ($1.25, postage 12c.)
MEETING VI
Construction and Ornament in Dress; Color
Collect illustrations showing good and faulty ornamentation.
Procure samples of fabrics showing good and faulty ornamentation.
Make a color card showing contrast and harmony of color. (See Question 11.)
References: See list on pages 234 and 235.
Children's Clothing
Get up an exhibit of simple and satisfactory clothing for children, including color, material, style and make.
Discuss children's clothes in reference to laundering.
Care and Repair of Clothes
Show examples of successful repairing.
Try some of the methods of cleaning. (See, also Chemistry of the Household pages 73-84.)
(Select answers to Test Questions on Part III and send them to the School, with report on Meetings V and VI.)