CHAPTER XX
Wednesday, April 24.—We have at last made the expedition to the Ponds. On Monday evening Henry Green sent down word that he was starting early next morning. So on Tuesday we rose at five, and two hours later Graham and I set off ahead. We were glad to get a start so as to ensure a rest before the others came up. We went over the common and down to and along Big Beach. After walking over a sandy stretch there, we climbed up the side of the mountain on to a narrow path and there awaited them. Will Swain came hurrying up looking very hot, he thought we had got down too low. Soon there joined us Henry Green, who was the guide, Rebekah, Ethel, and Lily and Ruth Swain. We then followed the narrow and ascending path across Plantation Gulch, where on the left was a yawning precipice.
[Illustration: THE PATH OF PLANTATION GULCH]
Several halts were called, during which we picked and ate berries. It was a long and stiff climb. Towards the top the grass got longer and we had often to clamber under the branches of trees, of which there were scarcely any lower down. When we reached the top the path led up a stony gulch, from which there was a beautiful view up a valley. Then we had to climb and pass along the steep side of a hill. After this we were on flatter ground. It was very misty and the scenery reminded me much of the moors of Scotland. We saw many young mollyhawks sitting near their nests and showing white in the undergrowth. We now walked over more level ground, along what Henry called a road but I should hardly call a trail. Then again over very uneven ground and through high ferns. By eleven we were at First Lagoon Gulch, which resembled the dry bed of a wide and deep river. There we had a light lunch. In about twenty minutes we started again. Our course lay up a steep hill and over much the same sort of ground as before. At noon we were above the ponds. It now came on to rain hard. We tried to shelter under the edge of the cliff overhanging them, but by the time the rain ceased the girls were wet through. There was a thick mist and we could not even see the ponds, of which there are three, and which lay far below. After some deliberation we decided not to descend to them, and turned our steps homeward. We returned at a good rate, the girls flying in front of us. Will Swain took his own way back. With a thick mist hanging all round it would have been impossible to find the way without a guide. At intervals we stopped to wring the wet out of our skirts. I was thankful when we got to the gulch where we had to descend; though the wind was there blowing gales. We got down the first part of the mountain very quickly, but only by frequently sitting down on the long wet grass to slip down steep pitches. When we got to Plantation Gulch we found a fire and tea awaiting us—the work of Will Swain and the girls. Now we knew why they had hurried on. It was excellent and most refreshing. We were home by three. The next day Rebekah came to wash our muddy clothes. She had made dreadful rents in her skirt, and as she has no idea of mending beyond patching I have darned them for her.
We found Henry Green a most kind and considerate guide. He constantly made short detours in search of the easiest path and often broke off branches to clear the way. I hear he told the men afterwards that he had not thought the "Missus" would have been able to walk so well. I asked him as we went up the hill which was the worst day he had ever been out in on the sea. He said, "The day the Surrey was here, and we were landing the luggage. The wind tore the sail of our boat and so we had not the same control of her."
Saturday, April 27.—Last night was so cold it kept us all wakeful. Soon after four we were disturbed by a rat, and I thought it a good opportunity to get up and make up the dough. Ellen lit the paraffin stove and warmed the milk and I made the bread and then retired to bed again.
Wednesday, May 8.—While I write Graham and Henry Green are engrossed in a game of Tiddley Winks. Henry's wife came yesterday to stay with us, as we thought a change might do her good. Her rheumatism is better, but she is still feeling ill and depressed. She slept in Ellen's room and Ellen on the sofa. This evening she made up her mind to go home, but says she will come again tomorrow. Henry brought a bundle of wood and is sending milk twice a day because she is here.
Friday, May 10.—We do not go out much for walks; they are rather pointless without an object. But when it is dusk we often go to the top of the cliffs for a breath of fresh air.
Sunday, May 12.—Sophy Rogers said to me as we were going up to the class, "We shall miss it when you are gone." I felt encouraged.
Tuesday, May 14.—Mrs. H. Green did not come back to sleep, but spends the day here now. She told them at home if she stayed the night here she felt as if she should go out of her mind. She has her meals with us and Graham cracks jokes to make her laugh.
Just as we had finished dinner to-day there was a hasty knock at the door and Bob Green rushed in. We thought he was going to cry "Sail, ho," but it was to say there was a sea-elephant on the Flat Rocks. These are about four miles away to the east of the Hardies. We at once started off, Mrs. Green coming with us as far as her sister's. A number of women and children were on the way; the men had already gone armed with their guns. At the potato patches we had to descend the cliff and go for some way along the shore. The men awaited us at a point where the sea was breaking on to the cliff and helped us over. We had to watch our opportunity and make a run for it. We were now in sight of the sea-elephant, which looked like a black log lying on the beach. It was a young one and measured about twelve feet in length. When discovered it was asleep. The coast is very picturesque just there, high rocks standing out in the sea. We all trooped home together and got back in the early evening.
Wednesday, May 15.—The men were all out today cutting up the sea-elephant, which when boiled down makes excellent oil for burning.
A ship was seen off the settlement, but it was too late to let the men know in time for them to get back and go out to it. It came well in and we regretted it was not taking our letters.
Thursday, May 16.—A four-masted ship was descried towards dusk.
Friday, May 17.—This morning Repetto came to the school window and asked me to go and see his wife who had been taken ill in the night with a bad heart attack, and for about two hours had been unable to speak. I found her in much the same condition. After taking a little brandy she felt better, and improved as the day wore on.
Thursday, May 23.—The cattle are looking so different this year; the men say they have not seen so much grass at this time of the year for years. When Mr. Keytel was here he showed the men how to shoot an ox, dispatching one with his first shot. I am glad to say that since that they have tried to do the same. The men are longing for a ship as they have run out of tobacco. Scarcely any one possesses matches now, so we have constant requests for them.
We have begun asking two at a time of the older people to have tea with us on Wednesdays. The younger married people we shall ask to supper, as they do not mind coming out at night. This afternoon we had old Caroline Swain who is seventy-nine and her sister Mary Glass who is ten years younger. Caroline has been more or less of an invalid for many years. We glean much of the past history of the island from the old people. They have been telling us of the visit of the Duke of Edinburgh in the Galatea in 1867, in honour of whom the Settlement is called Edinburgh. They remember well his having dinner in this room, and how while he was having it, all unknown to him they vied with one another in trying on his hat.
In view of having an entertainment, we are teaching the girls some of the "Golden Boat songs" as well as recitations which the boys also are learning. It is rather an effort, but we think it will give pleasure. Some of the infants are learning "Three little kittens" and say it charmingly.
[Illustration: CATTLE, NEAR POTATO PATCHES]
Wednesday, May 29.—To-day has been a fête day. It is Will Swain's birthday. He is one of the two young men lately returned from the Cape which, I suppose, accounts for the festivities being on such a grand scale. Two sheep were killed, and the Swains gave a dinner to every one on the island. The elders had dinner at the Hagans' who have the largest room, and the children at Susan Swain's. They sent us a cooked chicken for our dinner.
Saturday, June 8.—So far we have had a much better winter than last year, there has been more sunshine and less wind.
Graham is gradually getting the meteorological apparatus up. He and Repetto have put in the garden what resembles a meat-safe. It is the screen for the thermometers. I objected to its being placed in the middle of the garden, and so it has been removed lower down where it cannot be seen from the house, rather, I fear, to Repetto's regret who regards it as a very desirable ornament.
Friday, June 14.—Today William has been getting kelp to put on our garden. As the gate into the garden is not large enough for the cart to pass through a portion of the wall had to be pulled down.
Thursday, June 20.—Last Sunday evening Mr. And Mrs. Repetto came in. After a talk we had reading aloud and sang some hymns. One wishes one could be of more real help to the people. Yesterday we had old Eliza Hagan and Lucy Green to tea. Ellen sang to them some of Moody and Sankey's hymns to the accompaniment of her autoharp. Graham told them we thought of camping out a night or two on the mountain; at which they were much concerned and tried hard to dissuade us. At last Eliza said a comfortable air of conviction, "Mumma won't go with Puppa." He conveyed them home one on either arm, both being rather decrepit.
Saturday, June 22.—We are having a spell of cold weather, and snow is to be seen on the top of the mountain. It is more like our winter at home. Fortunately there is not much wind.
Thursday, June 27.—Today the men have all been working on a patch of ground near here, just across the Big Watering, which Henry has let us have for wheat. It has to be sown this month. They seem pleased to do it. They have been fairly busy lately cutting a large quantity of wood for the winter, which is piled near their houses. Old Sam Swain and Tom Rogers go out every month fishing in order to find out for Mr. Keytel when the fish are at their best.
Last night we had Tom and his mother to supper. She appeared soon after 5 o'clock and they stayed till about 9. We had fish cakes and a semolina mould with jam. Tom much enjoyed playing Tiddley Winks, and I think would have gone on happily till midnight. We ended the evening with a hymn and prayers.
Saturday, June 29.—We have spent the afternoon in the garden moving some of the Eucalyptus plants. Several are over a foot high and have very long tap-roots. We cannot plant them in any other garden, as the people say they would infect the soil with the white mould which is all over this garden. This mould has already rotted the roots of one or two. Ned and Charlie helped me to weed and to put small stones round the bed for a border. Little Charlie pulled up some Love-in-a-mist thinking it was a weed. When he found out what he had done, he turned away and buried his face in his arm and wept. We tried to console him, but it was some time before he could get over it. "He's skeered," said Ned.
Wednesday, July 3.—We have a little handmaid, Mary Repetto. She is delighted to come and is most capable. She comes for an hour twice a day, and receives a shilling a week. Early this morning Ben had a return of his fits, which seem rather worse this time; he has had five today. His sister Mrs. H. Green is much better. On Monday I took her to the wheatfield to help me to sow. We sowed the seed broadcast while Graham and her husband raked it in.
Friday, July 5.—We had our entertainment yesterday at five. I think every one was present with the exception of old Caroline Swain. I found out just at the last that the children were not changing their clothes, so I bustled them off home to do so. The whole affair lasted about one hour and a half and was the first of the kind the people had had on the island. Graham began with a reading, "Harry" from the Gordon League Ballads, and caused much laughter when he curtsied as Jim's wife did before the Queen. Some of the recitations were rather feeble, but perhaps we only were conscious of it. William in one piece was much pleased with shouldering Graham's gun, and when the auspicious moment came for him to pretend to shoot (a small boy at his side letting off a cap pistol), he looked quite white in the face. In "We are little sailors," the girls very effectually used pocket-handkerchiefs for sails. In another song they had to march, clap, and jump. The big girls enjoyed it quite as much as the younger. Charlotte Swain, who is rather fat, could not jump for laughing, and said, "I shall laugh a lot more yet." We finished with the National Anthem, which was quite new to them.
Thursday, July 18.—It is a long time since I have written in my diary, but I have twenty letters waiting to be dispatched. We have been even longer this year than last without being able to communicate with a ship. It is just four months since the schooner left. Every one is longing for a ship. The people are short of soap, but we have been able to give them a little.
We have been having decidedly cold weather which has told upon the young lambs, several having died at night.
A day or two ago I said to Robert Lavarello, a boy of ten who is supposed to be somewhat of a cook, "Could you make a loaf of bread?" "Yes," he answered, "I think I could." "Well," I said, "try, and bring the loaf for me to see." The next morning he appeared before breakfast triumphantly bearing a plate with a loaf on it covered with a white cloth to which was pinned the Italian tricolour. His cheeks glowed with pleasure as he displayed the loaf kneaded and baked by himself. It was far more successful than one I had baked that morning which had burst when taken out of the tin and which I was careful to keep in the background! As a reward he was presented with a tin of jam and a large leek which we heard was much enjoyed by his father, who ate it raw.
The Repettos came to supper last night. She looked so elegant in a muslin blouse, and with a very pretty print handkerchief, decorated with Swiss chalets and edelweiss, on her head. For supper we had fish soup thickened with vegetables, stewed apricots and tea. Our guests always eat so sparingly.