THE MINIATURE YACHT AND HOW TO RIG HER.
Boat making and sailing are most fascinating pursuits, and we do not know but the old saying, “When a man has taken to boat-sailing, he is a sailor to the end of his days,” is to a certain degree applicable to the boy who intelligently fits out his tiny craft, and sends her on little voyages across the neighboring pond.
If the sailing is to be done on water of any depth, there is one caution we should like to give at the very outset: Learn to swim before you sail her. No mere pleasure is worth risking one’s life for, and accidents will happen even to the most careful boys.
After this, you may play on or near the water with as much safety as on the land.
Aside from the pleasure, one learns an extremely useful lesson in making a miniature model yacht, and in sailing her. A certain familiarity with the rigging, and the looks of the thing, will thus be obtained, and if your fingers have patiently set up shrouds and stays, and rove the mimic halyards, they will be less at sea with the ropes and stays of a real vessel.
Many boys living near the sea, and accustomed every day to see vessels lying at anchor, or sailing in and out of the harbor, have very hazy ideas concerning the rigging of any kind of craft. Well I remember in my early days of being obliged to run down to the wharf to see where to attach my topmast. Whether it belonged forward or aft of my mast I had not the slightest remembrance, and yet scarcely a day went by without my seeing a vessel in some form or other.
Boys are not the only persons, however, who look at things and do not see them. The power of minute and careful observation is a rare quality, and the majority of people go through life without forming the habit, or indeed dreaming they have not made the best use of their sight.
For the benefit of the boys who belong to this class, and those less fortunate ones living inland where yachts are unknown, I write this chapter.
In several of our large cities, ponds are set apart for the especial purpose of sailing toy vessels. They are the exclusive property of the boys, and any fine afternoon in season, and frequently out of season, if the ice does not interfere, crowds of boys may be seen sitting on the edges of these “lakes,” intently watching the graceful fleet as it skims lightly over the water. The sixty-acre lake in Prospect Park, Brooklyn, and Conservatory Lake, Central Park, New York, are both set apart for the owners of these miniature yachts; and it is wonderful how many older people, as well as the boys themselves, take interest in this amusement.
a Keel.
b Bowsprit.
c Stern.
d Mast.
e Topmast.
f Boom.
g Gaff.
h Forestay.
i Shrouds.
j Jib-stay.
k Topmast-stay.
l Topping lift.
m Main-sheet.
n Ensign.
o Throat halyards.
p Peak halyards.
q Burgee.
r Reef points.
The building and sailing of tiny yachts is carried to a much greater extent in England than in this country. There the Prince of Wales is deeply interested in the sport, and has instituted a “Royal Yacht Club,” presided over by himself, which has regular yacht regattas. These regattas take place on Serpentine Lake, in Hyde Park, every summer, and are considered quite important events. The yachts belonging to this club are very elegant affairs, one of them being valued at $5,000, yet none of them are over five feet in length.
We do not expect our boy readers to emulate their British cousins, but with the following simple directions we feel confident they can, with a fair amount of skill in the use of tools, and careful labor, make a very respectable miniature yacht, which shall be correct as far as she goes in both form and rigging.
In the fashioning of a miniature boat, the hull is the first thing which claims our attention; and in making this, two elements are to be considered, rapidity and stability.
The rapidity or ease with which a vessel moves through water, is gained by a narrow hull—that is, narrow in proportion to its length—which, to be sure, renders the vessel somewhat unstable; but this instability may be overcome by loading the keel with lead. There is danger, however, of carrying this to too great an extent, by lowering the vessel so much that the friction against her sides more than counteracts the fine proportions of her build. Hence a skillful designer reconciles these two points.
There are two types of model recognized in yacht building: First, the English cutter model, which is narrow, and quite deep in proportion to width, with its keel heavily weighted to secure the necessary stability. This model is best adapted to rough cruising in strong winds and heavy seas, such as prevail on the English coasts.
Second, the American: This, our model, is much wider, or, in nautical phrase, has much more beam in proportion to length and depth. Indeed, it is often so shallow as to merit the term “skimming-dish,” ofttimes applied to this class of vessels.
These boats are usually fitted with center-boards, which can be lowered or raised according to the need of the moment, instead of the deep keel of the English model, American vessels having the advantage of smoother water in which to make their cruises. The sheltered surface of Long Island Sound and the bays which adjoin it at either end, afford excellent sailing grounds for those owned in New York and the vicinity.
For the toy boats our boys may desire to make, a medium between these two types will probably be found preferable in practice.
The center-board may be ruled out at once, as both itself and the well in which it plays would require more time and patience in their construction than most boys would care to give.
It is much better to have your boat too wide than too narrow, as a capsize is far more disconcerting to the average young yachtsman, than a slight inferiority of speed.
For a sloop yacht, the greatest width should be about one-third the length; and the point of greatest width, or beam, should be somewhat nearer the stern than bow.
Probably the best way to make a toy yacht is to procure a piece of wood, which is about three times as long as it is wide and deep, and whittle out your hull as your judgment or fancy may dictate; keeping in mind a few essential points, however, to insure ultimate success.
First, draw a line from the middle point of one end to the middle point of the other end of the top of the block; this will serve as a guide to the bow and the center of the stern. Care should be taken not to make your vessel too blunt at the bow; as a sailor would say, “the lines at the bow should be fine when they meet the water.”
The elegant appearance of the boat is increased by giving an overhang to the stern, instead of running it up vertically; and if the young builder is confident in the use of his tools, a sheer, as it is called, of the lines at the top, or the gunwale, will add greatly to the grace of its appearance. For the benefit of those who do not understand the meaning of the word sheer, it may be explained that it is the gradual and graceful downward curve from bow to stern, noticeable in the bulwarks of vessels when seen from one side.
It is perhaps superfluous to add that great care should be taken to have each side of the craft alike, for if a preponderance of weight is on one side, the vessel will tip; while if the curve is unequal, she will not sail evenly.
The hollowing out of the inside is most conveniently accomplished with a sharp gouge and mallet, while the hull is secured firmly in a vise. When this is finished, a hole should be made in the bottom to receive the lower end of the mast, and care should be taken not to bore through the hull, as it would be difficult to stop the ingress of water through it.
We have now come to the keel, which must be firmly attached to the hull. The best way to do this is to drive three slender brass screws through the bottom of the boat, with ends projecting from one-fourth to one-half an inch along the line of the proposed keel. Make a temporary box around these, inclosing a space equal to the length and breadth of the keel, with strips of thin wood, such as cigar-box wood; strips of heavy pasteboard may answer the purpose sufficiently well. In either case this mold should be firmly attached to the hull, in such a manner that after casting the keel it may be readily removed. Perhaps the best way to accomplish this is to paste it in place by means of narrow bands of stout paper. The inside of the mold must be rubbed with oil or lard to prevent the lead from adhering to its sides. This lead must be melted over a very hot fire, so that it will not cool too rapidly upon entering the mold, in which case it would not hold together as well. When cold, the mold may be detached, and the keel will be held firmly in place by the three screws.
The deck should be made of thin board, cut so as to accurately fit the top of your hull. If a sheer has been given to the bulwarks, it is of course much more difficult to fit the deck accurately, as it should follow the curve. It will very likely be found necessary to steam the board used, to make it sufficiently flexible. It will be possible to use stout pasteboard for the purpose, if both sides and edges are given a couple of coats of paint, which treatment should also be applied to the inside of the hole for the mast.
This hole should be placed very slightly farther astern than the hole already mentioned, made in the bottom of the vessel. The effect of this will be to give the mast a slight rake. This is always the case with the masts of a schooner yacht, but builders of sloop yachts occasionally omit the rake and “step” the mast in a vertical position.
The bowsprit may be fastened by two staples made of small wire, and driven down over it. One is driven down into the stem, or extreme forward point of the hull, and corresponds to what is called the “gammon iron” in a full-sized craft; the other secures the “inboard” end of the bowsprit, or that which is nearer the stern. This end is called the heel, and should nearly reach the mast. The outer end should project beyond the hull to a distance of nearly one-third the latter’s length.
The rudder can be whittled from a thin piece of wood, in the shape shown in the figure; the upper part or head is round, and passes up through a hole in the overhang. The top of this rudder-head is squared off to fit the hole in the end of the tiller or helm. The rudder is “shipped” very much as a barn-door or window-blind is set in place. Suitable hinges for the rudder of a toy boat can be made of pins from which the heads have been filed. Two pins may be bent double for staples, and inserted into the “stern-post” of the vessel; while two others bent at right angles may be driven into the rudder, the projecting ends hanging down through the staples. The rudder should turn with sufficient friction to hold its place, at whatever angle it may be set. The hollow of the boat should not extend back into the overhang, as water might enter it through the rudder-hole.
The mast is composed of two parts or pieces; the lower part is what is always understood when the “mast” is spoken of. The smaller piece, fastened to the upper end of the mast, is called the topmast.
The “mast,” which extends above the deck to a distance equal to about three-fourths the length of the hull, passes through the hole in the deck already mentioned, and rests firmly in the hole made for it in the bottom of the hull.
The lower end of the topmast is lapped on in front of the upper end of the mast, as seen in the figure, and may be secured in place by two loops of fine brass wire.
The spars of next importance are those which stretch the mainsail. The larger is called the “boom,” and extends along the lower edge or “foot” of the mainsail; while the other, which is called the “gaff,” is secured to its upper edge or “head.” The boom is equal in length to the mast; the usual meaning of the word is here intended, i. e., the lower part. The gaff is a little over one-half the length of the boom.
The mast and topmast taper slightly toward their upper ends, while the gaff is nearly the same size throughout its entire length. The boom generally swells a little, being somewhat larger in the middle than at either end.
The boom and gaff are adjusted to the mast by a “jaw” on either side, forming a crotch, which keeps them from slipping off. Builders of miniature yachts will, however, probably find it more convenient to whittle the ends of the spars in the form of a crotch than to attach jaws as separate pieces.
Other smaller spars which enter into the equipment of racing craft, will be mentioned in speaking of the sails.
The standing rigging is now to be considered; this consists of stays and shrouds. “Shrouds” are ropes which lead from near the head of the mast to either side of the vessel, where they are fastened into the chain-plates. These are strong iron bands firmly bolted to the timbers. The shrouds of the model yacht, however, can be attached to copper tacks driven into the sides. They—the shrouds—are tied around the mast just below the point where the lower end of the topmast ends.
In “real” yachts these shrouds end in loops which encircle the mast, and rest upon, or are held in place by blocks called “hounds” attached to either side. But young ship-builders will probably find it will answer all purposes to make a slight notch on either side of the mast, at the point indicated.
A sloop yacht has usually two shrouds on either side, while in a large ship there are four or five, making, as is known, a good-sized ladder.
The “fore-stay” runs from the same point on the mast to the top of stem.
In case the reader may be ignorant of the meaning of nautical terms, it may be well to say here that by “stem” is meant the piece of timber in the hull placed farthest forward, also called “forefoot” and “cutwater.” The “fore-stay” may be passed through the staple already mentioned, which fastens the bowsprit to the hull. The jib-stay passes from mast-head to outer end of bowsprit.
The topmast-stay runs from the top of the topmast to the forward end of the bowsprit; here it is sometimes passed through a hole in the end, and brought down to the forefoot, near the water line.
The bob-stay runs from the end of the bowsprit to the stem, and acts as a brace to offset the strain of the “headsails,” or the sails in front of the mast. In a large yacht it is necessary that this stay be very strong; and in such cases it is often a substantial strip of iron or steel.
A yacht has, also, what are called “backstays,” which run on either side from head of “topmast” to points on the sides somewhat abaft, or back of the places where the shrouds are attached.
There are also “cross-trees,” with “topmast shrouds” leading from them to the top of the topmast; but these, as well as the backstays, may as well be dispensed with by our juvenile naval architect, as a complication of unnecessary cords is to be avoided on a miniature craft.
We must now take up the sails, the most important of which is the mainsail. The shape of this may be sufficiently well understood from the figure. The edge next the mast is called the “luff,” while the outer or longer side opposite to this is called the “leech.” The upper and lower edges are called respectively the “head” and “foot.” The lower after corner of this sail is called the “clew,” the lower fore corner the “tack,” while the upper after corner is called the “peak.”
The “mast-hoops” are attached to the “luff” and run up and down the mast as the sail is raised or lowered. In vessels of miniature size, these may be supplied by small brass curtain rings. The “foresail” also runs on small rings or loops which slide on the forestay. The jib, in like manner, is attached to the “jib-stay”; the “jib-topsail” or “flying-jib” to topmast-stay.
It may be well to dispense with the forestay, and to enlarge the jib so as to occupy the additional space thus given, as the work will be less, and the appearance quite as good.
It now remains to consider the “gaff-topsail,” which occupies the space between the topmast and the gaff. This sail is set in quite a number of ways; in a sloop yacht it is usual to stretch it on two light spars, which are contiguous to mast and gaff.
Beside these, racing yachts in light winds carry a “balloon jib,” which is simply an extremely large jib-topsail; and a “spinnaker,” which is used in going before the wind. It is shaped like a large jib, and is spread by means of a small spar extending along its foot, called the “spinnaker boom,” so that it may take the wind on the side opposite the mainsail.
These sails are spread by means of running rigging. First, the halyards, by means of which the sails are hoisted. The mainsail usually has two halyards, one line being attached to the gaff near where it touches the mast, which is called the “throat halyards.” The other is smaller, encountering less strain, and is termed “peak halyards,” as it raises that part of the sail after the luff has been hoisted.
The gaff-topsail of a regular yacht also has two halyards, one of which raises the edge next the mast, and the other draws its foot out to end of gaff.
The “jibs” are each raised by one “halyard” attached to head or upper corner.
In a small boat like that we are considering, one halyard for each sail will be amply sufficient. In fact it is a frequent practice to keep the sails permanently spread; which has this in its favor, that they are much smoother, much less wrinkled, than when furled between cruises.
The “topping lift” is a line which leads from the head of the “mast” to the outer end of the “boom,” which it keeps from falling on deck when sail is lowered.
The sheets are not sails, as the reader not conversant with nautical expressions would suppose, but ropes, or lines, which keep the sails in their proper position in respect to the wind. The main-sheet, which controls the mainsail, is attached to the boom at a point just above the stern, to which the other end is led. Here it is fastened to a cleat.
The sheets of the headsails are fastened to their “clews” or lower aft corners, and led to cleats near foot of mast. In large craft the sheets are passed through a number of pulleys in order to secure sufficient purchase.
In addition to the rigging already mentioned, many other ropes might be enumerated, such as the “downhauls,” “outhauls,” “spinnaker brace and guy,” “bowsprit shrouds,” etc., but as has already been said, the less confusion of cords in a miniature craft, the better.
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