ILLUSTRATIONS

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"The thatched roofs are replaced by roofs of shingle that shine like silver in the sun"[6]
"Very different are the mountain villages from those of the plain. The cottages are less miserable"[6]
"Many a hearty welcome has been given me in these little villages"[7]
"Square, high buildings with an open gallery round the top"[7]
"It is especially in the Dobrudja that these different nationalities jostle together"[10]
"It had kept the delightful appearance of having been modelled bya potter's thumb"[14]
"Primitive strongholds, half tower, half peasant-house"[14]
"Richer and more varied are the peasants' costumes"[14]
"With an open gallery round the top formed by stout short columns"[15]
"Composed of a double colonnade.... Behind these colonnades arethe nuns' small cells: tiny domes, little chambers"[15]
"A convent ... white and lonely, hidden away in wooded regionsgreener and sweeter than any other in the land"[18]
"This porch is decorated all over with frescoes"[22]
"Some were so old, so bent, that they could no more raise their headsto look up at the sky above"[23]
"Strange old monks inhabited it"[23]
"Silent recluses, buried away from the world"[23]
"An indescribable harmony makes its lines beautiful"[26]
"A lonely little cemetery, filled with crosses of wood"[30]
"On lonely mountain-sides"[30]
"Guarded by a few hoary old monks"[30]
"There lies a tiny wee church"[30]
"Tall and upright, with the pale, ascetic face of a saint"[30]
"Creatures so old and decrepit that they seem to have gathered mosslike stones lying for ever in the same place"[30]
"When found in such numbers they are mostly hewn out of wood"[31]
"These strange old crosses ... they stand by the wayside"[31]
"Mostly they stand beside wells"[34]
"Quaint of shape, they attract the eye from far"[38]
"Sometimes they are of quaintly carved stone"[38]
"Strange old crosses that on all roads I have come upon"[38]
"Their forms and sizes are varied"[38]
"None of the greater buildings attract me so strongly as those littlevillage churches"[39]
"The altar is shut off from the rest of the building by a carved andpainted screen"[39]
"The roofs are always of shingle"[42]
"Varied indeed are the shapes of these peasant churches"[46]
"Their principal feature being the stout columns that support the porchin front"[46]
"But with some the belfry stands by itself"[47]
"The columns have beautiful carved capitals of rarest design ... whitewashedlike the rest of the church"[47]
"Quaint indeed are the buildings that some simple-hearted artist haspainted"[47]
"These lonely mountain-dwellers"[50]
"These shaggy garments give them a wild appearance"[54]
"Their only refuges are dug-outs"[54]
"Even tiny boys wear these extraordinary coats"[54]
"Here, in company with their dogs, they spend the long summermonths"[54]
"On juicy pastures near clear-flowing stream"[55]
"Silent watchers leaning on their staffs"[55]
"Wherever I have met them, be it on the mountains or in the plains,... these silent shepherds have seemed to me the very personificationof solitude"[55]
"On the burning plains of the Dobrudja where for miles around notree is to be seen"[58]
"Stifled by the overwhelming temperature, they had massed themselvestogether"[58]
"Mothers and children, and old grannies"[62]
"Small bronze statues with curly, tousled heads"[62]
"Occasionally a torn shirt barely covers them"[62]
"Most beautiful of all are the young girls"[63]
"Inconceivably picturesque"[63]
"These are the respected members of the tribes"[63]
"I have often met old couples wanderingtogether"[63]
"A bare field where the soldiers exercised"[66]