CHEFS D’OEUVRE
THE SERVICE OF WINES
Cosmopolite Louisiana is undoubtedly the wine drinking section of the Union, and a word as to the manner of serving the wines which play no small part in the discussion of “La Cuisine Creole,” will not be out of place.
The inherited French taste of the greater portion of the population, and the education by contact of the American element, makes claret the universal table wine. The climate, too, renders this wine particularly palatable, and during the long heated term it is seldom absent from the table of even the most economical. At the restaurant it is the exception to see a person dining without a bottle of vin ordinaire, while for breakfast, during hot weather, white wines of the lighter kinds are much used.
As to the manner of serving wines at dinner the following menu will convey the most adequate idea:
| With | Soup, | Sherry | |
| “ | Fish, | White Wine | |
| “ | Entrees, | } | Claret, vin Ordinaire |
| “ | Entremets, | ||
| “ | Roast, | } | Champagne |
| “ | Salad, | ||
| “ | Dessert, | Fine Claret or Burgundy | |
| “ | Cafe Noir, | Cognac | |
At large dinners in New Orleans a great deal of wine is served, and you will be expected to drink with your raw oysters, a light white wine; with soup and hors d’œuvre, sherry or Madeira; with fish and entrees, a heavy white wine; with releves and entremets, a good claret followed by a Ponche Romaine, which is the turning point of the feast, or rest; after which will be served with the roast, champagne; game and salad, fine claret or burgundy, and with dessert cafe noir and liqueurs.
The most acceptable distribution of wines at a plain dinner—which we think should never be over five, or six courses at most—is given below. It is one which has the endorsement of the best authorities:
| With | Oysters, | White Wine | |
| “ | Soup, | Sherry or Madeira | |
| “ | Fish, | Heavy White Wine (not absolutely necessary) | |
| “ | Entrees, | Champagne | |
| “ | Salad, | } | Fine Claret |
| “ | Roast or Game, | ||
with the usual after-dinner wines as preferred.
GRAND BRULE A LA BOULANGER
(From a Gourmet.)
The crowning of a grand dinner is a brule. It is the piece de resistance, the grandest pousse cafe of all. After the coffee has been served, the lights are turned down or extinguished, brule is brought in and placed in the centre of the table upon a pedestal surrounded by flowers. A match is lighted, and after allowing the sulphur to burn entirely off is applied to the brandy, and as it burns it sheds its weird light upon the faces of the company, making them appear like ghouls in striking contrast to the gay surroundings. The stillness that follows gives an opportunity for thoughts that break out in ripples of laughter which pave the way for the exhilaration that ensues.
Pour into a large silver bowl two wineglasses of best French brandy, one half wineglass of kirsh, the same of maraschino, and a small quantity of cinnamon and allspice. Put in about ten cubes of white sugar; do not crush them, but let them become saturated with the liquor. Remove the lumps of sugar, place in a ladle and cover with brandy. Ignite it as before directed, then lift it with the contents from the bowl, but do not mix. After it has burned about fifteen minutes serve in wine glasses. The above is for five persons, and should the company be larger add in proportion. Green tea and champagne are sometimes added.
PETIT BRULE
Take an ordinary-sized, thick-skinned orange; cut through the peel entirely around the orange like the line of the equator, then force off the peel by passing the handle of a spoon between it and the pulp. Into the cup thus formed put two lumps of sugar and some cinnamon, and fill with fine French brandy (cognac), and ignite it the same as the above and pour into glasses. The brule will be found to have a pleasant flavor given to it by the orange.
GIN FIZ—NO. 1
One-half tablespoonful of sugar, a little lemon juice, two wineglassfuls of seltzwater, one wineglassful “Tom”, or Holland gin, teaspoonful of white of an egg, and ice; shake well and strain into fancy glass.
GIN FIZ—NO. 2
Use celestine vichy instead of seltzerwater, and the yolk instead of the white of an egg.
JAMAICA RUM PUNCH
Make same as whiskey or brandy punch. Santa Cruz, same.
PONCHE ROMAINE
Two wineglassfuls of water, one wineglassful of whiskey, half wineglassful of Jamaica rum; sugar and lemon to taste. Shake, and use plenty of ice. Strain and serve in fancy glass.
PARLOR PUNCH (MORAN’S)
One tablespoonful of white sugar, a little lemon juice, two wineglassfuls of English black tea, one wineglassful of whiskey, one-half wineglassful of Jamaica rum, a little raspberry syrup, plenty of small ice. Shake well, and strain in fancy glass.
ROYAL COCKTAIL (MORAN’S OWN)
One lump sugar; two dashes of Boker’s bitters, or Angostura bitters, two tablespoonfuls of Belfast ginger ale; one wineglassful of whiskey, or brandy; one lemon peel; plenty of ice. Shake well, and strain in fancy glass.
NEW ORLEANS TODDY
One lump of sugar, one tablespoonful of water, one wineglassful of whiskey or brandy, one lump of ice. Use small bar glass.
VIRGINIA TODDY
Two lumps of sugar, two sherry or wineglassfuls of water, same of whiskey, plenty of ice; shake well and strain into small bar glass, with grated nutmeg on top.
WHISKEY, BRANDY, OR GIN COCKTAILS—New Orleans Style
Two dashes of Boker’s, Angostura or Peychaud bitters—either will make a fine cocktail. One lump of sugar, one piece of lemon peel, one tablespoonful of water, one wineglassful of liquor, etc., with plenty of ice. Stir well and strain into a cocktail glass.
ANOTHER WAY—SPOON COCKTAIL
One lump of sugar, two dashes Angostura bitters, one piece of lemon peel, one lump of ice. Serve plain in small bar glass with spoon.
WHISKEY PUNCH, PLAIN—Use Regular Bar Glass
Two wineglassfuls of lemon or lime juice, half a tablespoonful of sugar, one-half wine glass of whiskey, and plenty of ice; shake and strain into punch glasses.
FANCY PUNCH
Half a tablespoonful of sugar, a little raspberry, a little lemon, lime and pineapple juice. Two parts of water to one of whiskey or brandy, and plenty of ice. Shake and strain in punch glass; put fruits in season when serving; use regular bar glass.
CHAMPAGNE COCKTAIL
One glass of wine, two dashes of Angostura bitters, and two bits of lemon peel. Put the bitters and lemon peel in the glass first, then pour in the wine, after which put in one small spoonful of sugar, and stir.
MINT JULEPS. MADE OF WHISKEY, BRANDY, GIN, ETC., ETC.
One-half tablespoonful of powdered sugar, one wineglass of water, one of whiskey, brandy or gin, etc., and one-half dozen sprigs of mint. Use plenty of fine ice, and decorate with strawberries and pineapples, or any fruit in season.
SQUIRTS—Use Large Glasses
Whiskey, brandy, gin, white wine, claret or catawba make good “squirts.” Fill the glass half full of fine ice, put in one tablespoonful of white sugar, a little raspberry syrup, strawberries and pineapple; pour in your liquor, and fill up with seltzer water. Stir all rapidly.
HOW TO MIX ABSINTHE IN EVERY STYLE
Plain absinthe; half a sherry glass of absinthe; plenty of fine ice, with about two wineglassfuls of water. Put in the water, drop by drop, on top of absinthe and ice; stir well, but slowly. It takes time to make it good.
ABSINTHE AND ANISETTE
To half a wineglass of absinthe put two or three dashes of anisette. Mix same as above.
ABSINTHE AND SUGAR
To half a wineglass of absinthe, put a teaspoonful of powdered sugar and mix same as above.
SUISSISSE
To half a wineglass of absinthe, put half a tablespoon of orgeat syrup, plenty of fine ice; add water, mix well. Serve in liquor glass.
POUSSE CAFE—NO. 1
Maraschino, curacao, kirsh-wasser and brandy in equal parts of each; dash with Peychaud bitters. Serve in liquor glasses.
POUSSE CAFE—NO. 2
Bernardine, brandy and curacao, in equal parts of each; dash with Angostura bitters.
POUSSE CAFE—NO. 3
Brandy, maraschino and cassis, in equal parts; dash with Boker’s bitters.
POUSSE CAFE—NO. 4
La grande chartreuse (yellow), brandy (French), and la grande chartreuse (green), in equal parts; dash with Peychaud bitters.
HOT SPICED RUM
Two lumps of sugar, two wineglasses boiling water, one wineglass Jamaica rum, a little butter—about as much as you can put on a dime; cloves and allspice. Serve in small bar glass.
SOUPE LA REINE
Boil two chickens in water with thyme, sweet-bay and parsley. When cooked (not to pieces), take them out of the water, cut up the breasts in small pieces the size of dice; fry a few pieces of onion without coloring them, add a little flour and the water that the chickens were boiled in, a little rice and the balance of the chickens, meat and bones, chopped fine. Boil all together, and when thoroughly cooked strain through a colander and put back to boil, stirring constantly. When it comes to a boil remove it from the fire and add the beaten yolks of a few eggs and a little cold milk, stirring continually. Keep the soup in “bain-marie.” When ready to serve put the small pieces of the breasts in a soup-dish and pour the soup over them.
RED SNAPPER A LA CHAMBORD
Clean your fish, and be careful not to damage it, and replace the roe. Take off the scales, and lightly raise the skin on one side, and lard it with bacon from fin to tail; put it in a pan, and moisten with white wine. Add salt, pepper, parsley, six laurel leaves, some thyme, sliced onions and three cloves; cover the head with strips of bacon, and put it into the oven, covering your fish-kettle with leaves of foolscap paper, and letting it simmer for an hour. When about to serve, drain it and put it on a platter, garnish it all round with forcemeat balls, or better, with pigeons a la Gautier, iced (glaces) sweetbreads, small glaces, pope’s eyes of a shoulder of veal, crabs, fowl livers, truffles, cock’s combs and cock’s kidneys. Strain the sauce through a silken sieve, and if not sufficiently seasoned, put into a pan two spoonfuls of Spanish sauce, and two spoonfuls of the dressing of your snapper; let it boil down one-half, put your small garnishes into it, and pour the sauce around the fish. Serve after having jellied and browned it.
CRAYFISH BISQUE A LA CREOLE
Wash the cray-fishes, boil and drain them. Separate the heads from the tails. Clean out some of the heads, allowing two or three heads to each person. Peel the tails. Chop up a part of them, add to them some bread, onions, salt, black pepper and an egg or two. With this dressing, stuff the heads that you have cleaned out. Chop the claws and the parts adhering to them. Fry a little garlic, onions, ham, one turnip, one carrot, and a little flour; add some water, the chopped claws, a few tomatoes, thyme, sweet bay, parsley and a little rice stirring often to avoid scorching. When well boiled, strain through a colander. After straining, put back to the fire and season to taste. Put the stuffed heads into the oven until brown. When ready to serve, put them and the tails in a soup dish and pour the soup over them. Before serving, add a little butter and nutmeg, stirring until the butter is melted.
BOUILLE-ABAISSE
Chop some onions and garlic very fine, fry them in olive oil, and when slightly colored add some fish cut up in slices; also a few tomatoes scalded, peeled and sliced, some salt, black and red pepper, thyme, sweet-bay, parsley, and half a bottle of white wine, and enough water to cover the fish. Put it over a brisk fire and boil a quarter of an hour. Put slices of toasted bread in a deep dish, place the fish on a shallow dish with some broth, and pour the balance on the bread and serve hot.
BROWNED SNIPE A LA FAUVET
Dress fourteen snipe, stuff them with a little browned stuffing, to which add two hashed truffles. Bend the skin back carefully while stuffing, and then replace it so the birds will retain as nearly as possible their natural appearance. Place the snipe so prepared and larded with bacon, into a frying pan; and to keep them sufficiently together in order that the skins may not shrink much while cooking, put some strips of bacon over them; moisten them with a little soup-stock, cover them with buttered paper and let them cook in the oven for forty minutes; then drain them, lightly trim the lower side, and lay them on a little mound of uncooked, but slightly browned stuffing, breast up, in the bottom of a dish, and ice them (glacez). Keep the dish hot in the oven for some minutes. Remove the skin and eyes from the heads of the snipe after cooking them and stick a small truffle in each bill, and lay between each two birds, one of the heads with the truffle up. Garnish the dish with stewed cock’s combs, scallops, goose liver, and champignons; add a little Madeira sauce, boiled down and permeated with the flavor of the game. Ice (glacez) the snipe and truffles, and serve with a separate sauce. Let everything be very hot.
SALAD A LA RUSSE
Cut up all kinds of vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, snap beans, etc., boil them in water with salt and butter, then drain and season lightly with salt, black pepper and vinegar; add a few cooked green peas, mashed and well drained. Put all in a salad dish in the form of a pyramid, and lightly cover it over with mayonnaise. If you have the hearts of artichokes put them around the dish, as a wreath, with a little asparagus mixed in. Keep as cool as possible until served.
BISCUIT GLACE FOR TWENTY
Ten yolks of eggs, one and a half pounds pulverized sugar, half a gallon of cream, vanilla extract, white of eggs well beaten if the cream is too light. To be frozen in a square box and cut in small pieces. A coat of strawberry sherbet on top of the cream, before cutting, to give nice appearance. A tin box three inches wide and six inches long, which is enclosed in a box three inches larger all around. The inside box has a tight-fitting top, and is packed in the outside box, which has a perforated bottom to allow water or melted ice to escape. Place inside box within the outer, and stuff with ice and salt and let it freeze; when frozen, place red sherbet on top of biscuit to give pretty appearance.