THE SOUTH AMERICAN SERIES
VENEZUELA
CATHEDRAL: CARÁCAS.
VENEZUELA
BY
LEONARD V. DALTON, B.Sc. (Lond.)
FELLOW OF THE GEOLOGICAL AND ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL
SOCIETIES, ETC.
WITH A MAP AND 34 ILLUSTRATIONS
T. FISHER UNWIN | |
LONDON: | LEIPSIC: |
1912 | |
(All rights reserved.)
TO
D. R. R.
INTRODUCTORY NOTE
The author is desirous of expressing his appreciation of the continued courtesy and kindness rendered during his stay in Venezuela by the British Chargé d’Affaires, Mr. W. E. O’Reilly, by Mr. E. A. Wallis, and other British residents, as well as the warm reception accorded by the Venezuelan officials throughout the parts of the country he visited.
Mr. F. A. Holiday, A.R.C.S., F.G.S., has made himself responsible for much of the information on the Llanos, and has assisted largely in the preparation of the tables in [Appendix B]. Mr. J. D. Berrington, of El Callao, also furnished details relating to the Guayana goldfields and their surroundings.
The author is greatly indebted to Mr. N. G. Burch, F.R.G.S., for reading the manuscript and for many valuable suggestions and criticisms. He would also thank Mr. G. T. Wayman, of Carácas, for many useful documents and items of interest regarding recent developments.
CONTENTS
| PAGE | |
| INTRODUCTORY NOTE | [9] |
| CHAPTER I PHYSICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE UNITED STATES OF VENEZUELA | [25] |
| Situation—Area—Population—Main physical divisions—The Guayana Highlands—Mountains, rivers, and forests The Llanos—Selvas—Mesas—Rivers and cienagas—The Delta—Caños—The Caribbean Hills—Serrania Costanera—Serrania Interior—Rivers—Segovia Highlands—Drainage—Vegetation—The Andes—Portuguesa Chain—Cordillera of Mérida—The Sierra Nevada—Mountain torrents—Vegetation—Páramos—The coastal plain—Lake of Maracaibo—Coro and Paraguana lowlands—Climate—“White-water” and “black-water” rivers—Seasons—Tierra caliente, templada, and fria—Temperature and seasons—“St. John’s little summer”—Health. | |
| CHAPTER II THE GEOLOGICAL HISTORY OF VENEZUELA | [38] |
| Ancient land of Guayana—Comparison with Scottish Highlands—Gneisses, schists, and granite—Dykes—Roraima Series—Strange peaks—The Caribbean Series—“All that glitters is not gold”—La Galera—Segovia Group—Natural castles—Capacho Limestone—The “Golden Hill”—Cerro de Oro Series—Formation of mountains—Early outlet of Orinoco—Cumaná Series—Shoals and islands—Llano gravels—Cubagua Beds—Igneous rocks—Earthquakes—Hot springs—A natural kettle—Coal—Iron—Gold—Copper—Lead—Petroleum and asphalt—Sulphur—Salt—Urao—Ornamental stones—Wealth in minerals. | |
| CHAPTER III THE PLANTS AND ANIMALS OF VENEZUELA | [47] |
| The glamour of the South American forests—Hidden treasures—Temples of Nature—“A dim religious light”—Bejucales—Forest giants—Brazil nuts—Tonka-beans—Rubber—Quinine—Arctic and tropic forms—The Llanos—Tierra caliente—Natural hothouses—Colour and coolness Páramo plants—Monkeys—An old friend—Cannibalism—Vampires and bats—“Tigers” and “lions”—“Handsome is as handsome doesn’t”—Wild horses—Dolphins—Prickly mice—The “water-hog”—Sloths—Birds—Many-coloured varieties—Umbrella-bird—“Cock-of-the-rock”—Toucans—Cuckoos—Humming-birds—“Who are you?”—Oil-birds—Parrots and macaws—Eagles and vultures—A national disgrace—Game-birds—Snakes—Lizards—From the Orinoco to a city dinner—A cup-tie crowd—Ferocious fish—When is a mosquito not a mosquito?—Agricultural ants—Gigantic spiders—Ticks—A pugnacious crustacean—A rich field. | |
| CHAPTER IV VENEZUELA UNDER SPANISH RULE AND BEFORE | [61] |
| Pre-Columbian times—No great empire—Primitive Venezuelans—Picture rocks—Invasions—The Guatavitas and the legend of El Dorado—Amalivaca—An Inca prince?—Ancient roads—The discovery of Tierra firme, 1498—Alonso de Ojeda—The name “Venezuela”—A great geographical fraud—Discovery of the treasures of the west—Arrival of the conquistadores—The slave trade—Treacheries of the Cubagua colonists—Gonzalez de Ocampo—Las Casas—First cities of the New World—Settlement of Coro—The Welsers—Alfinger—Ingratitude of Charles V.—New Andalusia—Exploration of the Orinoco—Cruelties of Alfinger—Exploration of the Llanos—First Bishop of Venezuela—Destruction of New Cadiz—Faxardo and the Carácas—Cities of Western Venezuela—The rebellion of Aguirre—Foundation of Carácas—Pimentel moves his capital to the new city—Capture of Carácas by English buccaneers—Inaccuracies of Spanish historians—Explorations of Berrio in Guayana—Raleigh and El Dorado—Attempts to civilise the Indians—Missions—University of Carácas—Guipuzcoana Company—Revolution of Gual and España—Miranda—The last Captain-General—The Junta—Appeals to England—The Declaration of Independence. | |
| CHAPTER V THE REPUBLIC, 1811-1911 | [84] |
| Local character of revolution—Declaration of a Constitution—Centralised government—Troubles of the young republic—The Church and the patriots—Miranda—Dictatorship and downfall—Drastic measures of Monteverde—Youth and parentage of Simon Bolivar—The guerra a muerte—Dictatorship of Bolivar—Monteverde murders four prisoners—The Mestizos—Massacre of Spaniards—Murmurings—Retirement of Bolivar—Royalist victories and reinforcements—Morillo’s barbarities—Return of Bolivar to Venezuela—Indecisive campaign—Renewed discontent—Bolivar withdraws to Haiti, but returns—Mariño’s insubordination—Massacre of Barcelona—Campaign in the Llanos—Arrival of the British Legion—Congress of Angostura—The march to Bogotá—The republic of great Colombia—Change of allegiance of the Mestizos—Armistice of Trujillo—Negotiations with Spain—Recommencement of hostilities—Battle of Carabobo—End of Spanish power in Venezuela—Position of Venezuela in Colombia—Separatist movement—Death of Bolivar—Páez first President of Venezuela—Vargas—Folly of Mariño—Progress of the country—Public honours to Bolivar—Recognition of republic by France and Spain—Commerce and prosperity of the country—Tyranny of Tadeo Monágas—Abolition of slavery—Revolution of Julian Castro—Capital temporarily removed to Valencia—Federalists and Centralists—Falcón—Convenio de Coche—Federal Constitution—Guzman Blanco—Development under his government—Revolution of Crespo—British Guiana boundary dispute—Cipriano Castro—The Matos revolution—Coup d’état of General Gomez—Centenary celebrations—Present prospects. | |
| CHAPTER VI MODERN VENEZUELA | [106] |
| Boundaries—Frontier with Brazil—Colombia—British Guiana—Internal subdivision—States and territories with their capitals—Density of population—Constitution—Departments of the Executive—Jefes Civiles—Legislature—Senators and deputies—Administration of justice—Laws relating to foreigners—Marriage—Public health—Philanthropic institutions—Education—Coinage—Multiplicity of terms—Towns—Typical houses—Furniture—Hospitality—Food—Clothing—Army and navy—Insignia—Busto de Bolivar—The Press. | |
| CHAPTER VII THE ABORIGINES | [119] |
| The Goajiros—Lake dwellings—Appearance—Territory—Villages—Government—Burial customs—Religion—Medicine-men—The Caribs—A fine race—Cannibalism—Headless men of the Caura—The Amazons—Industries—Religion—Marriage customs—The aborigines of Guayana—Tavera-Acosta on languages—The Warraus—Appearance—Houses—Food—Clothing—Marriage customs—Birth—Death—Religion—Treatment of sick—The Banibas—Appearance—Customs—Religion—Celebration of puberty of girls—Marriage customs—The Arawaks—Religion—Early missions amongst Indians—Wanted, a twentieth-century apostle. | |
| CHAPTER VIII THE STATES OF THE “CENTRO”: DISTRITO FEDERAL, MIRANDA, ARAGUA, AND CARABOBO | [135] |
| La Guaira—Heat—Port-works—The Brighton of Venezuela—Sugar plantations—Streets and botiquins—Guarapo—La Guaira-Carácas Railway—A great engineering feat—Carácas—Climate—Population—Streets—Buildings—The Salón Elíptico—El Calvario—El Paraiso—“La India”—Water supply—Trams and telephones—Lighting—Industries—The Guaire valley—Coffee—Miranda—Ocumare del Tuy—Petare—Central Railway—Vegetable snow—Carenero Railway—Rio Chico—Los Teques—Great Venezuelan Railway—La Victoria—Sixteen-fold wheatfields—Maracay—Grazing lands—Cheese—President Gomez’s country house—Villa de Cura—An epitome of the State—Lake of Valencia—Cotton—Carabobo—Valencia—Cotton mills—Montalbán—Deserted vineyards—Wild rubber—Puerto Cabello Railway—The port—Meat syndicate—Club—Ocumare de la Costa—What is bad for man may be good for cocoa—Mineral resources. | |
| CHAPTER IX ZULIA | [149] |
| The Lake of Coquibacoa in the sixteenth century and now—Wealth and importance of the State—Area and population—Waterways—Forests—Mineral wealth—Savannahs—Maracaibo—Harbour and dredging schemes—Cojoro—Wharves and warehouses of Maracaibo—Exports—Population—German colony—Buildings—Industries—Tramways—Coches—Lake steamers—Ancient craft—The comedy of the bar—Railways—Communication with Colombia—Altagracia—Santa Rita—A western Gibraltar—An eventful history—San Carlos de Zulia—Sinamaica—Vegetable milk—Timber—Copaiba—Fisheries—The “Maracaibo Lights.” | |
| CHAPTER X THE ANDINE STATES: TÁCHIRA, MÉRIDA, AND TRUJILLO | [157] |
| Access—Roads versus railways—Mineral wealth—“Maracaibo” coffee—Forests—San Cristobal—Water supply—Industries—Roads—Rubio—Táchira Petroleum Company—San Antonio—Lobatera—Colón—Interrupted communications—Pregonero—El Cobre—Old mines—La Grita—Seboruco copper—Mérida—The Bishop and the Bible—Eternal snows—Earthquakes—Electric light—Road schemes—Gold and silver—Lagunillas—Urao—Wayside hospitality—Puente Real—Primitive modes of transport—Las Laderas—The Mucuties valley—Tovar—Mucuchíes—The highest town in Venezuela—The páramos—Timotes—Trujillo—Valera—Water supply—La Ceiba Railway—Betijoque and Escuque—Boconó—Santa Ana—Carache—Unknown regions—Possibilities of the Andes. | |
| CHAPTER XI LARA, YARACUY, AND FALCÓN | [171] |
| The original Venezuela—Ancient cities—Communications—Barquisimeto—Fortified stores—Productions—The Bolivar Railway—Duaca—Aroa copper-mines—A precarious house-site—In the mine—Bats and cockroaches El Purgatorio—Blue and green stalactites—San Felipe—The Yaracuy valley—Nirgua—Yaritagua—Tocuyo—The “coach” to Barquisimeto—Quíbor—Minas—Carora—An ill-advised scheme—Siquisique—Steamboats on the Tocuyo—San Luis—Coro—The first cathedral of South America—Goat-farms—Fibre—La Vela—Capatárida tobacco—Curaçao—A fragment of Holland—A mixed language—Trade—Sanitation—The islands. | |
| CHAPTER XII IN THE “ORIENTE.” NUEVA ESPARTA, SUCRE, PART OF MONÁGAS, AND THE DELTA TERRITORY | [181] |
| Restricted use of term “Oriente”—Margarita—Asunción—Porlamar and Pampatar—Macanao—A primitive population—The priests, the comet, and the people—Cubagua—Pearl fisheries—Coche—Cumaná—Las Casas—A diving feat—Petroleum and salt—Fruit—The Manzanares—Cumanacoa—In the hills—San Antonio and its church—The Guacharo cave—Humboldt—Virgin territory—Punceres—Oil-springs—The Bermudez asphalt lake—Carúpano—Ron blanco—Sulphur and gold—Rio Caribe—Peninsula of Paria—Cristobal Colón—An ambitious project—The Delta—The Golfo Triste—Pedernales—Asphalt and outlaws—In the caños—Tucupita—Barrancas—Imataca iron-mines—Canadian capital for Venezuela—Guayana Vieja. | |
| CHAPTER XIII THE LLANOS. MONÁGAS, ANZOÁTEGUI, GUÁRICO, COJEDES, PORTUGUESA, ZAMORA, AND APURE | [193] |
| The great plains—An ocean without water—“Bancos” and mesas—Drought and flood—A living floor—Streams which flow upwards—Heat—Cattle and horses—Imported butter—Methods of milking—Civil wars—Future prospects—A mean annual temperature of 90° F.—Barcelona—History—The massacre of the Casa Fuerte—Survivors—Guanta—Coal of Naricual—Aragua de Barcelona—Maturín—Low death rate—Caño Colorado—Bongos—Athletic boatmen—Casitas—Travelling on the Llanos—An hato—Areo—An ancient cotton press—The men of Urica—Churches and wayside shrines—A gruesome monument—Calabozo—Barbacoas—Ortiz—Zaraza and Camaguan—San Carlos—Barinas—Guanare—Past prosperity and future prospects. | |
| CHAPTER XIV THE CITY AND STATE OF BOLIVAR | [211] |
| An enormous area—How to reach it—Ciudad Bolivar—Climate—San Felix—Falls of the Caroni—Trade of San Felix—Quality of “roads”—Upata—Guasipati—Balatá industry—Extravagant exploitation—Former importance—The goldfields—El Callao—The discovery—Callao Bis—Big dividends—The common pursuit—Venamo valley High freights—Poor quality of labour—Unsystematic working—Goldfields of Venezuela, Ltd.—Savannahs—Stock-farming—Sugar—Old settlements—An ancient bridge—Tumeremo and the balatá forests—Killing the goose that lays the golden eggs—The Caroni—An opportunity for a pioneer—Up the Orinoco—The “Gates of Hell”—The Caura—Rice and tonka-beans—“Lajas”—Rubber of the Nichare—Falls of Pará—André’s journeys—Mountains of the upper Caura—The Waiomgomos—Reticence regarding names—Ticks—Caicara—The Cuchivero—Savannahs and “Sarrapiales”—Sarsaparilla—Climate of the Orinoco valley. | |
| CHAPTER XV THE AMAZONAS TERRITORY | [223] |
| Area—General character—San Fernando de Atabapo—The upper Orinoco—Communication with outside world—Atures and Maipures rapids—Humboldt’s description—The Compañía Anónima de Navegacion Fluvial y Costanera—General Chalbaud—Railway projects—The Piaroas—Curare—Savannahs—Rubber—Brazil-nuts—Wild cocoa—Mineral wealth—Water power—Rubber prospectors—Method of working—Esmeralda—The place of flies—Mt. Duida—Gold possibilities—The Raudal de los Guaharibos—The limit of exploration—The Ventuari—An old Spanish road—A midnight massacre—Stock-raising lands—The Maquiritare—Trading with gold dust—The Casiquiare bifurcation—Life of the natives—Eau de Cologne in the wilds—The Guainia and Rio Negro—Maroa—Cucuhy—The Atabapo—Lack of population—Education—Colonisation—General prospects. | |
| CHAPTER XVI THE DEVELOPMENT OF VENEZUELA | [235] |
| Commerce—Early history—Pearls and gold—The Guipuzcoana Company—The republic—Years of struggle—Separation from Colombia—Guzman Blanco—British, American, and German trade—Opportunities—Currency—Banking—Banco de Venezuela—Banco Carácas—Banco de Maracaibo—National Debt—Natural resources—Large returns on capital—Coal—Iron—Salt—Asphalt and petroleum—Sulphur—Copper—Gold—The Llanos—Stock-raising—Possibilities of the industry—The Venezuelan Meat Products Syndicate—Agriculture—Coffee—Cocoa—Sugar—Tobacco—Cotton—Rubber—Tonka-beans, balatá, sernambi and copaiba—Fisheries—Pearls—Industries—Chocolate—Cotton-mills—Tanning—Matches, glass, and paper—Cigarettes and beer—Arts and sciences—Academy of History—Universities—Surveys. | |
| CHAPTER XVII COMMUNICATIONS AND TRANSPORT | [252] |
| Lack of adequate means—Postal service—A small but growing system—Methods of carriage—Unusual uses of mailbags—Telegraphs—Telephones—Railways—Bolivar Railway—Later lines—Tramways—Abundant water-power—“Roads”—Carreteras—Bridle-paths—P.W.D.—Waterways—Less than they seem—Importance—The Orinoco—Ports—Shipping—Steamship lines. | |
| CHAPTER XVIII THE FUTURE OF VENEZUELA | [261] |
| A great opportunity—The Panama Canal—The Llanos—Petroleum-fields—Liquid fuel—Position of Venezuela—Guayana—Possibilities—Colonisation—Government—The military-political class—The disgrace of labour—Better conditions—Vargas—The “Matos” revolution—General Gomez—Hopes to be realised—Honesty and justice—Development—Roads—Railways—Education—Consular service—Great Britain’s trade with Venezuela—A poor third—British capital—The people’s responsibility—An opportunity. | |
| APPENDICES | |
| APPENDIX A | [269] |
| Population of States and districts under the Constitution of 1909 according to the census of 1891 | |
| APPENDIX B | [274] |
| Imports (by classes)—Imports (by countries)—Exports (by products)—Imports (classes and countries)—Exports (by products and ports) | |
| APPENDIX C | [281] |
| Population, altitude, mean annual temperature and death rate of principal Venezuelan cities—Heights of principal mountains | |
| APPENDIX D | [283] |
| Government finance—Revenue—Expenditure | |
| APPENDIX E | [285] |
| The National Debt of Venezuela—Internal debt—Foreign debt | |
| BIBLIOGRAPHY | [287] |
| General Works—Geographical—Geological—Botanical and Zoological—Historical—Ethnological—Carácas and the “Centro”—Zulia—The Andes, Falcón, &c.—The “Oriente”—The Llanos—Bolivar City and State—The Territorio Amazonas—Resources, commercial development, communications, &c. | |
| INDEX | [314] |
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
| CATHEDRAL: CARÁCAS | [Frontispiece] |
| FACING PAGE | |
| PENINSULA OF PARIA FROM TRINIDAD | [28] |
| IN THE DELTA | [28] |
| PANORAMA OF THE ANDES FROM NORTH OF CARACHE | [36] |
| IN THE UPPER TEMPERATE ZONE: THE CHAMA VALLEY | [50] |
| CLOUD DRIFTS IN THE ANDES | [58] |
| TORBES VALLEY AND THE COLOMBIAN HILLS | [58] |
| THE CHAMA VALLEY ABOVE MÉRIDA | [68] |
| MOUNTAIN STREAM NEAR CUMANACOA AND CUMANÁ | [68] |
| BARQUISIMETO | [78] |
| STATUE IN PLAZA BOLIVAR: CARÁCAS | [88] |
| THE UNIVERSITY: CARÁCAS | [98] |
| THE FEDERAL PALACE: CARÁCAS | [108] |
| OVEN: LA RAYA | [116] |
| AN ANDINE POSADA: LA RAYA | [116] |
| LA GUAIRA HARBOUR | [128] |
| PLAZA BOLIVAR: VALENCIA | [138] |
| MARACAIBO BAY | [148] |
| SAN TIMOTEO: LAKE OF MARACAIBO | [148] |
| A STREET IN LA GRITA | [158] |
| PUENTE REAL: GORGE OF THE CHAMA | [158] |
| THE SIERRA NEVADA AND CATHEDRAL OF MÉRIDA | [168] |
| WILLEMSTAD: CURAÇAO | [178] |
| THE HARBOUR: WILLEMSTAD | [178] |
| PUERTO CRISTOBAL COLÓN | [188] |
| RUINED CHURCH: BARCELONA | [198] |
| CASA FUERTE: BARCELONA | [198] |
| MESA OF ESNOJAQUE: TRUJILLO | [208] |
| MÉRIDA: LOOKING SOUTH FROM UNIVERSITY | [208] |
| CARRYING TILES ON OX-BACK: NEAR TOVAR | [218] |
| CROSSING THE TORBES IN FLOOD | [228] |
| THE “PITCH” LAKE: TRINIDAD | [244] |
| COUNTRY COACH: BARQUISIMETO | [256] |
| ON THE BOLIVAR RAILWAY | [256] |
The frontispiece and the illustrations facing pages 78, 88, 98, 108, 128, 138 are taken from “Venezuela,” by N. Veloz-Goiticoa, by permission of the Bureau of South American Republics, Washington, U.S.A.