CHAPTER XV
Another Itineration—Christians in Eul Yul—A Ride in an Ox-Cart—Keeping the Cow in the Kitchen—Ox-Carts and Mountain Roads—The Island of White Wing—A Midnight Meeting—Thanksgiving Day in Sorai—The Circular Orders—New Testament Finished—All in the Day’s Work—The Korean Noble—Meetings of the Nobility.
We left Pyeng Yang about the 26th of September, 1900, by one of the toy Japanese steamers, and reached Chinampo, a half-Japanese, half-Korean port, at night. We were accompanied by three young ladies, one of whom, a new arrival, wished to study methods; one who needed the bracing effect of out-of-door country life in the north for a few weeks; and one who had previously arranged with me to carry on a women’s training class in Eul Yul that fall. We were obliged to spend the night in Chinampo, but arriving late, we did not know where to find an inn, till we met an old friend, Rev. Mr. Smart, of the Church of England mission, who kindly found us a Japanese hotel. Here, after telling them our nationality, our ages, our condition, past lives and future intentions, and having been forced in spite of all protests to remove our shoes, they condescended to receive us as guests, at an outrageous price. We must not use our own camp beds, but the mats which had served no one knew whom before us; nor might we have water in our rooms, but must perform all our ablutions in the public hall on the lower floor.
Next morning we gladly bade our too particular hosts farewell, and crossed the river in a wretched old junk, which looked as if it were on the brink of dissolution. Fortunately, the weather was fine and mild, and the river calm, else I am sure we should all have been dipped, for even I had never yet beheld so dilapidated a craft. We were all day on the river, only able to land after dark, thanks partly to the nature of our vessel and partly to the tides, for which we were forced to wait before landing.
The following night was hot, the inns nothing more or less than ovens, and morning found us all in an unusually wilted condition, and to add to the general misery, the young ladies of our party had made important additions to their luggage, which threw us all four into the utmost consternation. That evening we reached Eul Yul, where both men’s and women’s classes were to be held. As usual the people crowded in to meet us as soon as we arrived. Although harvesting was on and it was one of the busiest times of the year, quite a number of women came to study with us. They were so bright and receptive, it was a pleasure to teach them. I had some very interesting visits with the women in their own homes, and was edified to see the bright and practical way in which the Christian who accompanied us talked with some of the unbelievers. One woman was hesitating, fearing she was too ignorant or too wicked to receive salvation, to which our native friend said, “Why, if you are hungry, and a bowl of rice is set before you, you eat right then, and just so if you want salvation, you have only to take and eat.”
The listener’s eyes filled with tears, it seemed too good. All the time we were talking, another Christian woman sat with bowed head asking God’s blessing on the word. In the examination of applicants for baptism, I was much interested to see how carefully our native leaders questioned them. “You say you sin daily, but ask God to forgive, and so have a happy and calm mind. Is it then no matter that you sin?” Again, to a woman who said her past sins were forgiven, and her present sins were confessed every day, he said, “Well, then, what sin have you committed to-day?” She could or would only speak in a general way, and after various questions, mentioned nothing in particular. “But,” said Kim, “is that honoring God, to go and confess you have sinned, and ask him to forgive you know not what?” On Sunday twenty people were baptized. During the communion service all eyes were streaming, and some sobbed like children at the thought of what the Lord had suffered for them.
In the afternoon our native elder, Mr. Saw, gave us a delightful illustrated Bible lesson on the Christian armor, with illustrations drawn and colored by himself, and with most appropriate references. The native Christian was first represented in ordinary dress all unarmed, and in succeeding pictures, one after another of the needed articles, helmet, shield, sandals, breastplate and sword were added. These illustrations were unique to the last degree and extremely well drawn. In the evening an experience meeting was held, when one after another told what the Lord had done for them. Some had been the slaves of drink, and had fallen again and again after repeated attempts to resist, in their own strength, but now for years had been free men in Christ, and were looked upon as miracles of grace by their friends and neighbors.
One man told something of his home life. He had been a dissolute gambling fellow, whose reputation was well known through all the surrounding counties. When he went home at night, after days of absence and dissipation, his angry wife would scold and reproach him, and he in return would beat and maltreat the poor little woman. “It was all misery and discomfort, but now, all peace and love.” A neighbor who came in often remarked on this exceptionally happy home life, wishing hopelessly for something like it in her lot. She could not believe the happy wife when she told her it had once been so different, and that all this came through Jesus.
Then Mrs. Kim called in her husband and bade him tell if this was true. “Why,” said he, “I’ll do more, I’ll give my bond for it, bring paper and pen and I’ll write a bond to any amount you choose to name, that if Jesus comes into your home there’ll be peace there.” “Why,” said he, “people say if the Lord were only here now to do some of his miracles every one would believe, but I tell you the Lord is doing greater miracles now than he ever did on earth when he takes a vile wretch like me and changes his heart.” One man had been afflicted with an apparently incurable disease for over forty years, and now the Lord had healed him; and one had been such a liar that no one believed his honest statements, and yet now was implicitly trusted by every one.
It was decided before we left Eul Yul that the native Christians of that district should employ two helpers or evangelists to work among the ignorant believers of that vicinity, and that twelve Bible or training classes should be held in the different districts in that province during the year, six to be in charge of Mr. Saw, and six taught by Mr. Kim Yun Oh, our most intelligent leader. From Eul Yul we went to Pung Chun, while Mr. Underwood visited several smaller places more difficult of access. Miss Chase and I divided the meetings, and were most thoughtfully and attentively heard, the little room being packed whenever we announced a service.
Our quarters were not of the best, as the only place assigned us for preparing our food was a little corner of the cow’s stable. We have heard of people who “keep the pig in the kitchen,” but to keep the cow there was certainly a degree worse than our flightiest fancy, and we at length rebelled, with the result that a more sanitary place was found for our culinary performances.
After Mr. Underwood arrived, eleven people were baptized here. The first public service for all was held in a hired room in the largest inn in the place. The chief man, after listening to all that had been said, arose and spoke to the crowd as follows: “We all know that what we have heard is true, there is nothing left for us to say but that from to-day on we will believe.” Some of the men who attended this meeting remained outside the door at first, unwilling to be seen in such company, as they were respectable gentlemen. After listening awhile they condescended to step inside, and before the service was over they had seated themselves in the front row, and admitted it was very good.
Aside from our kitchen arrangements, and a little anxiety lest the cow should conclude to visit us in our bedroom at night, and the persistent cock crowing at my head from two in the morning, we had a lovely time at Pung Chun.
Again at one of the little villages up in the mountains some of our chair coolies deserted us, and there was nothing left for it but for our two young ladies to ride in an ox-cart. They were a little doubtful about this new mode of procedure, but the Koreans assured us it was quite safe, and as our little son had traveled miles that way, we encouraged them to try it, especially as it was a last resort. So with many misgivings they perched themselves on top of the loads, and the ox, a great spirited animal, was brought up. When Miss Chase asked if he was to be trusted, they assured her with the statement that he could fight any ox in the country. It was supposed a good deal of harnessing would follow, but when a noose was merely slipped over a hook, and with no warning the steed literally galloped off, we were all somewhat startled, and the young ladies gave themselves up, with such a team running away.
The ox-cart is extremely primitive, its two wheels have only the clumsiest attempt at heavy wooden tires. The soft mud roads are full of deep ruts, so that under the most favorable circumstances the bumping and jolting are unspeakable. When therefore their mettlesome animal was at length of a mind to pause a little in his mad career, they lost no time in the order of their descent from that vehicle, and started off at a brisk pace, evidently decided to walk all the way back to Seoul rather than jeopardize their lives in such a contrivance and behind such a creature again. However, the way was long, and before night they changed their minds and resigned themselves to the ox-cart, when his bovine spirits were a little subdued by his journey, and he was somewhat less light and frisky than in the morning.
We arrived at Chil Pong, one of the villages perched up in the mountains, early in the evening, but not so our loads, which the country people manage in some miraculous way to drag up the steep mountain roads on the ox-carts.
It turned out that the ox-cart in use that day was a very weak one and gave out entirely, breaking down half way up the mountain. Another had to be brought from a distance, and long delays ensued, where the average speed is a snail’s pace, in spite of the experience with the lively animal the day before. Fortunately by this time we had obtained more coolies for the young ladies, so that our party were all together; the little son having become such a walker that he seldom patronized either chair or cart, and often walked twenty miles a day. One of the helpers, Mr. Shin, said, as he came up with the loads, supperless and quite tired out, at twelve o’clock that night, that had it not been that he was determined the pastor’s wife must not go without her bed and pillows, the cart would not have arrived at all. So tenderly do the people care for the needs of their teachers.
MRS. KIM OF SORAI AND HER FAMILY. [PAGE 244]
We found the mountains more beautiful, if possible, than ever. It was October, and hills that in the previous spring were rosy with rhododendrons and peach blossoms, were now scarlet, gold and purple with the magnificence of autumn foliage, asters and golden-rod. There was displayed on all sides some of the most brilliant coloring I ever saw. There were quantities of bitter-sweet wreathing all over trees and rocks, berries of many varieties, and bushes reminding me of that which Moses saw in Horeb, burning but not consumed. And though in a different way, still I too felt that the ground was holy with the unseen but felt presence, and that it would be well to remove one’s worldly shoes, which figuratively I did.
A few days later we crossed a mountain pass at over two thousand feet elevation, where we found the scenery more and more beautiful and wild. The gallant and unwearied “Captain” almost carried the rheumatic partner of his travels up the last steep ascent. The alternative was to sit in a chair and trust one’s self to a couple of tired coolies, who might stumble and dash one to atoms; or with chipangi (alpenstock) in hand, slowly drag one’s self up and then down over the rocks and steep slippery road. Arriving at the foot on the other side, we were once again in dear Sorai, where a good hot floor soon took out all the pain and weariness.
It had been decided that from Sorai we were to visit a certain island called Pang Yeng, or “White Wing,” where quite a number of people were believing through the teaching of some of the natives. The story is worth telling. A man, who had been banished to this island for a political offense, had received a Christian book from his nephew, a Methodist, just before his departure. The young man told his uncle that this religion was the basis of all civil liberty and civilization, so that the banished man in his loneliness proceeded to read it, and to publish and teach its doctrines among the islanders. He had been informed that on the opposite shore at Sorai lived people who could further explain the book and its doctrines, so one of the natives, the oldest and most honorable in the village, made a trip to Sorai, and begged Elder Saw to return with him and teach them.
They were lamentably ignorant, and while believing in Jesus were still carrying on heathen worship; they were as blind people only partly restored, who saw men as trees walking. Saw was not able to go at once, but after some time, when he visited them, he found the whole village assembled with all preparations made for offering their heathen sacrifices. He talked to them very earnestly and faithfully, and they then at once gave up all their idolatrous worship, and in a body promised only to serve the one true God.
The elder could not, however, remain long, and several months later, when Mrs. Kim, the indefatigable voluntary evangelist, visited them, she found that many of them seemed to have fallen back almost completely into old practices and beliefs. At first no one would receive her in their homes, but she talked to the women outside the houses so sweetly and winningly, that they at length invited her in, and gathered around her to listen. A great change was wrought through her teaching.
We made the trip in a little Korean sailing junk, which was rather small and uncomfortable for bad weather, but not at all out of the way on such a day as that on which we started, with blue sky above, blue and sparkling water below, and charming islands studding the sea like jewels.
We found that White Wing measured about twenty miles round the coast line and was nine miles long, with a capital and several hamlets. It is extremely beautiful and fertile, well fortified by bold picturesque cliffs along the coast, with delightful valleys and gently rolling country snugly nestled behind them. The people are all farmers, living in the simplest and most primitive way. Money is rarely seen, there is indeed no need for it, with no fairs or stores. Their wants are few, they raise what they need for food, clothing, warmth and light on their little farms, bartering among each other to supply such simple articles as their own labor has not provided.
All appeared to have plenty of rice and firewood, and to be quite content. Drunkenness and dishonesty are almost unknown. The magistrate told us they rarely needed even the slightest punishment, but were as they seemed to us, a gentle, kindly, simple, honest farmer and fisher folk.
We found a small church built on the hillside, and a little company of believers, who were waiting for examination and baptism. Although very ignorant, they were most anxious to be taught, and Mrs. Kim, who had gone with me from Sorai, and I were kept busy instructing the women. Like the women everywhere in Korea, they especially enjoyed the hymns, and were most eager to learn them. The words were comparatively easy, but the tunes were quite another matter. We realized the advantage in their learning them, both as a means of fixing divine truth and publishing it to others.
We were to leave very early in the morning to catch the tide, and the night before we had a farewell service in the little church. When this was over, and good-byes said, I went to the tiny room to pack our belongings, and Mr. Underwood to one of the Christian houses to give last directions and counsel with the leaders. About ten o’clock Mrs. Kim came to my door with one of the women, asking very humbly if I would go to one of their homes and teach them a little more this one last time, though it was late. “We are so ignorant and have none to guide and teach us,” said they pathetically. Of course I was delighted to go, and followed them to a farmer’s thatched cottage. It was one of the poorest and rudest of the native homes; in one corner a farm hand was lying asleep, in another a tiny wick burning in a saucer of oil was the only light in the room. We sat down under this, and the poor, rough, hard-working women clustered round us as closely as possible. Their faces and hands bore the marks of care, toil, hard lives and few joys, but they were lighted with a glorious hope which transformed them, and this with the awakening desire for knowledge had banished the look of wooden stolidity, which so many Korean women wear.
While we talked of our Lord and his teachings and conned again and again the hymns, a cough was heard at the door, and it was found that a number of “the brethren” were standing out there in the cold, frosty air of the November night, listening to such scraps of good words as they could catch. So when one of the women asked if they might come in, although generally out of regard for Korean custom and prejudice, I not only teach no men, but keep as much out of sight as possible, there were on this occasion no two ways about it, they must come, and in they thronged. It was a picture which I shall never forget, the dark eager faces, every one leaning forward in eager attitude, all seeking more knowledge of divine truth, hungering and thirsting after righteousness. A little dim humble room, and only such a poor feeble wick to light them all. Such a poor feeble wick was I, and all were looking to me for God’s light. “Feed my lambs,” was his last command, and yet in many a hut and hamlet his hungry little ones are starving.
Next morning at the first streak of dawn they again came, and with tears streaming down their faces, begged me to come soon again. “Oh, we are so ignorant, and so weak, how can we escape the snares of Satan, with no one here to lead and teach us!” they exclaimed.
Our return trip was very different from our first crossing. A severe storm of wind and rain came up, the little ship was tossed about on the waves like a plaything, and Mrs. Kim and I were miserably sick, not to mention being drenched with rain. It was impossible to make our port, and we were obliged to attempt the nearest coast, which offered no shelter from the wind, in addition to which, the tide being out, our boat was bumped about mercilessly on the rocks and stones with no chance of a landing for some hours.
However, all things come to an end sometime, and we at length effected a safe landing, and were soon dried, warmed and fed in a fishing village at hand, and reached Sorai next day. Before we left Sorai, the Christians held their annual Thanksgiving service. The church being too small to hold all the people, a tent was spread outside. After thanking God for their bountiful harvests and growing prosperity, they offered thanks for the spiritual harvest he had given.
During the year over two hundred and fifty people of the neighboring villages had been baptized through the missions and labors of this one little church, not counting a much larger number of catechumens received. They had enlarged and repaired their church and school rooms, built a house for their school teacher, one for their evangelist and another for the entertainment of strangers, who come from a distance to the Sabbath services.
They are an open-handed people, and when they read of the famine in India they took up a collection, amounting to fifty yen. As their daily wage rarely amounts to more than ten cents gold, and as the community is small, this was a large gift. Several of the women who had no money put their heavy silver rings in the plate. These rings are in many cases their only ornaments, and are most highly prized, so that when they were given, we knew that our people were giving till they felt it deeply.
In the famine so severe in many counties last year, Sorai, which was more blessed, helped many of its sister communities. On our return to Hai Ju we had some interesting visits with the women both in their own homes and at our rooms. We were allowed to help prepare the “dock,” or bread, which we found them making in one of the houses, for a prospective wedding. They were having a “bee,” a number of friends had come in to help, and they seemed much amused and pleased when we asked to be allowed to assist. We were very clumsy and awkward, but we gained our end by making them feel we were one with them. Later we were invited to the wedding, and forced to swallow an amount of indigestible food, which at other times we should consider as simply suicidal. But when it is a duty, one simply shuts one’s eyes to consequences, takes all risks, and comes through with an immunity which I verily believe is miraculous.
One old woman, who attended the meetings very regularly and was very devout, is quite a character. With a loud strong voice, but not the remotest glimmering of a notion of harmony, time or tune, she shouts away several lines and bars before or behind the rest, no consequence which, and quite often, if the hymn chosen is not in her book or according to her mind, she chooses another and proceeds as zealously as ever. When gently remonstrated with, she replies, “Oh, that is no matter, I’m not following you, I’m singing (?) by myself.”
We had only been in Hai Ju a few days when a fleet-footed messenger from Eul Yul arrived with a letter containing the news that a secret royal edict was being sent round to the various magistracies in that province, commanding all Confucianists to gather at night on the second of the next month (about fifteen days later), each at his nearest worshiping place in his district, and from thence to go in a body and kill all Westerners and followers of Western doctrine, and destroy their houses, churches and schools. A friend in the magistrate’s office, holding some petty position, happened to be present when this arrived, noted the excitement and agitation which the official evinced on reading it and the care with which it was guarded, and determined to learn its contents. He contrived an opportunity to read it unseen, and as some of his near relatives were Christians, he at once communicated the terrible news to them. One of the same family, a young man who was a fleet-footed runner, was instantly sent to us with a copy of the edict.
No words can express our state of mind on receiving the news. Thought flew back to one peaceful little community after another, which we had so lately visited, all rejoicing in the beautiful new life, all growing up toward Christ, like flowers reaching up to the sun, with the light of a glad hope in their faces, happy, harmless, kindly people, the aged, the little toddling children, helpless women, unsuspecting farmers, all consigned to utter destruction. As for ourselves, we were in one of the worst of Korean cities, it was impossible to make the slightest movement without attracting the notice of every one, for we were constantly the center of the observation of the whole town. It would be impossible to make our escape if any one wished to detain us. To make matters much worse, we had two young ladies and a child in our party. Probably little danger threatened us personally, as the governor was friendly, but our first duty was to send word to the American minister in Seoul, and it must be done quickly. To send a dispatch in any Eastern or European language would be futile, as, if suspicion was aroused, there were means of interpreting any of them. We at length concluded to send a Latin message, not to our minister, but to one of our mission, as less likely to attract attention either in Hai Ju or Seoul. This was done, and the message was at once carried to the American legation.
The news was at first received with incredulity, so friendly had the attitude of the government always been, but when it was remembered that recent Boxer disturbances in China might have suggested a similar course here, and that there were strong Buddhists high in influence at the palace who might have caused this strange measure, and when at the Foreign Office, through admissions and contradictions, it was made evident that the circulation of such an edict was not unknown to them, all doubt was over. Not long after it developed that from similar sources (that is, friends of Christians or of missionaries) the news had been carried to missionaries in Kang Wha and in Pyeng Yang. That it was unadvisedly done, and speedily repented, was proved by the fact that a few days later another edict rescinding the first was sent everywhere. Nevertheless and notwithstanding, I breathed freely and slept well for the first time since hearing the bad news, when I found myself on the little Japanese steamer well started on my way back to Seoul. The supposed authors of the order were put under arrest, and I believe punished, the Korean officials vigorously protesting that it was all a mistake and sent without the knowledge of the king or the government.
These trips to Whang Hai province usually occupied six or eight weeks of our time, and full of delightful incidents and experiences as they always were, did not represent more than a fraction of the work. In the fall of 1900 the whole New Testament was given to the people. To celebrate this event a large meeting was held in the Methodist church, the largest audience hall in Seoul, composed of as many natives and Christians as could be packed within its walls. A suitable thanksgiving service was held, and the board of translators and their native literary helpers were presented by the American minister with copies of the book, with very kind remarks on their work. The board now consisted of Rev. H. G. Appenzeller, Dr. Scranton, Rev. W. D. Reynolds, Rev. James S. Gale and Mr. Underwood.
In addition to the editorship of a weekly religious newspaper, Bible translation, preparation of tracts and hymns, city training classes, weekly religious services and meetings, supervision of schools and language class for missionaries, Mr. Underwood felt that a special effort ought to be made for the nobility and gentry, the hardest people in the country to reach with the gospel. This is the case, partly because officials who would retain office must go at regular intervals and offer certain prayers and sacrifices at royal shrines, partly that the ideas of caste are so strong that the nobility are unwilling to seat themselves on the floor in our churches among farmers, peddlers, coolies, merchants or even scholars, to listen to the gospel; and in addition, that their family life is grounded and interwoven on and in the concubine system. All of them have two or more families, some of them many. These numerous wives, their parents and progeny would make life intolerable should the husband put them aside. His friends and relatives would look upon him as too evil to live should he neglect to worship the ancestral tablets, and the spirits of his ancestors themselves would follow him like harpies, with all sorts of misfortunes and diseases.
Each man, too, looks forward with great complacency to being honored in his time as he has honored his dead parents, and seems to be overwhelmed with something like terror at the idea of having no one to worship his memory and offer sacrifices before his tablets, so that childless men usually adopt sons to keep their memory green. The ladies of this class, the first wives, are, as I think I have said before, very closely secluded, and are never seen except in their own apartments or the anpang of their kin, whither they are carried in closely covered chairs.
In such a state of affairs it is not strange that men should hesitate to listen to the doctrines of a religion which would turn their whole social world upside down, wreck their homes, cast upon them the blackest stigma, turn them outside the pale of court and official life, rob them of their income, and rank them with the common people. Knowing that it was almost impossible to induce them to attend church, an invitation was therefore issued, asking a large number of them to come to our house to talk over religious matters. To our surprise the call was most heartily responded to, and two large rooms were crowded with high Korean gentlemen, all of whom came no doubt from politeness or curiosity.
There were princes, generals, members of the cabinet, all men of the highest rank and birth. All listened with the closest attention, many of them asking thoughtful questions, which showed their real interest in what was said by the missionaries who came to assist Mr. Underwood in receiving and talking with them. Some asked for books, and many came repeatedly to talk over these matters in private. Meetings were held regularly Sunday afternoons, and a stereopticon exhibition was given, showing a series of scenes from the life of Christ.
One result of these meetings was that Mr. Underwood was approached with the suggestion that he should establish a Presbyterian state church. We were told that a large number of officials would prefer (if they were to be forced into giving up their own religion and joining a foreign church, as at that time seemed likely) to make it one of their own choosing, and connected with Americans rather than Russians. They were, of course, informed that we could not organize churches in that way, nor baptize men for state and political purposes. The suggestion was not official, but if we had been willing to use opportunities of this sort, the roll-call among the high class of nominal members might have been greatly swelled.