CHAPTER LXIV.
WINDSOR.—THE AVON AND THE TIDE.—THE STEAMER FOR ST. JOHNS, NEW BRUNSWICK.—MINES BASIN.—COAST SCENERY.—THE SCENE OF EVANGELINE.—PARSBORO.—THE BAY OF FUNDY.—NOVA SCOTIA AND NEW BRUNSWICK SHORES.—ST. JOHNS.—THE MAINE COAST, AND GRAND MANAN.
Wednesday, July 27. Windsor, N. S. Soon after our arrival, I walked down to the Avon, an arm of Mines Bay, itself an expanded inlet of the great Bay of Fundy, to view the wonderful tide. It was not coming in, as I had hoped, but quite out, leaving miles of black river-bottom entirely bare, with only a small stream coursing through in a serpentine manner. A line of blue water was visible on the northern horizon. After an absence of an hour or so, I loitered back, when, to my surprise, there was a river like the Hudson at Catskill, running up with a powerful current. The high wharf, upon which, but a short time before, I had stood and surveyed the black, unsightly fields of mud, was now up to its middle in the turbid and whirling stream, and very nearly in, the steamer from St. Johns, N. B.
In the course of an hour more I was on board, and waiting for the turn of the tide, upon which, of necessity, the boat takes her departure. I had missed, after all, seeing the first approach of the tidal wave, and had to content myself with what I have described, and with a short walk in the town, of late esteeming itself noteworthy on account of being the birthplace of General Williams, the hero of Kars, of whose fine personal appearance I have spoken.
We are now at the opening of the Avon into Mines Bay or Basin, as they call this small sea, and look upon scenes of which Longfellow speaks in the first pages of his Evangeline. It is simply a pleasant-looking farming country, checkered with fields of green, now of a yellow tint and then of a blue. Shores of reddish rocks and sand make a pretty foreground line along the west, and rise to the picturesque as they wind away northward. Headlands of gray and red rocks in slopes and precipices stand out in bold relief crowned with underwood and loftier trees. The clouds are clearing away before the breeze, and letting us have a sparkling sea, a fine blue sky, and landscapes dappled with light and shadow.
Parsboro, a village on the north shore of the Basin, enjoys more than its share of broad, gravelly beach, overhung with clifted and woody bluffs. One fresh from the dead walls of a great city would be delighted with the sylvan shores of Parsboro. The beach, with all its breadth, a miracle of pebbly beauty, slants steeply to the surf, which is now rolling up in curling clouds of green and white. Here we turn westward into the great bay itself, going with a tide that rushes like a mighty river toward a cataract, whirling, boiling, breaking in half moons of crispy foam. Behind us is the blue reach of Chignecto Bay, the northern of the two long and winding horns of the main body of water, up which it would be play for a fortnight to hunt romantic scenery, and witness the “bore,” that most brilliant of all tidal displays.
Here is a broad sea, moving with strange velocity for a sea. The prospect to the south is singularly fine. Nova Scotia, sloping from the far-off sky gently down to the shores, its fields and villages and country dwellings gleaming in the warm noon-day, or darkening in the shadow of a transient cloud—a contrast to the northern, New Brunswick coast, iron-bound and covered with dark forests. Drops from a coming shower are wasting their sweet freshness upon the briny deep, an agreeable discord in the common music of the day, and chime in, among pleasant incidents, with the talk of the Prince Edward’s man, and the sparkling conversation of the Newfoundland gentleman. “And so sail we” into the harbor of St. Johns, the last of the waters of this divine apostle, in time for supper and a pleasant ramble about the city. You might call it the city of hills.
Thursday, July 28, 1859. St. Johns, N. B. This is my last date, and I write it out in full, in the light of a fine morning, on the deck of the steamer for Portland. The coast of Maine, truly picturesque as it is, with its rocky points, lake-like bays, and islands bristling in their dark evergreens like porcupines, and particularly Mount Desert Island and Frenchman’s Bay, is the mildest form of Newfoundland scenery as you see it on the Atlantic side, with an additional dressing of forest and vegetation, sparsely studded with towns and habitations.
Speaking of Mount Desert Island, recalls Cole to memory, who was, I believe, the first landscape painter of our country that visited that picturesque region. I remember with what enthusiasm he spoke of the coast scenery—the fine surf upon Sand Beach—the play of the surge in the caverns of Great Head—the Ægean beauty of Frenchman’s Bay—the forests, and the wild, rugged mountains, from the tops of which he could count a multitude of sails upon the blue ocean, and follow the rocky shores and sparkling breakers for many and many a mile. Familiar to me as all that has long since become, I shall not pass it to-day without emotion.
Grand Manan, a favorite summer haunt of the painter, is the very throne of the bold and romantic. The high, precipitous shores, but for the woods which beautify them, are quite in the style of Labrador. I look upon its grand old cliffs with double interest from the fact that he has made me familiar with its people and scenery. As it recedes from my view, and becomes a dot in the boundless waters, I will put the period to this record.
THE END.
Any of the Books mentioned in this list will be sent post-paid to any part of the United States within 3,000 miles, on receipt of the money.
New Books and New Editions
PUBLISHED BY
D. APPLETON & COMPANY.
The Housekeeper’s Encyclopedia of Useful Information for the Housekeeper in all Branches of Cooking and Domestic Economy; containing the first Scientific and Reliable Rules for putting up all kinds of Hermetically-sealed Fruits, with or without Sugar, in Tin Cans or Common Bottles. Also, Rules for Preserving Fruits in American and French Styles, with Tried Receipts for Making Domestic Wines, Catsups, Syrups, Cordials, etc.; and Practical Directions for the Cultivation of Vegetables, Fruits, and Flowers, Destruction of Insects, etc. By Mrs. E. F. Haskell. 1 thick vol. 12mo. $1 25.
The Life and Writings of the Rt. Rev. Geo. Washington Doane, D.D., LL.D., for Twenty-seven years Bishop of New Jersey. In 4 vols. 8vo. Containing his Poetical Works, Sermons, and Miscellaneous Writings; with a Memoir by his son, Wm. Croswell Doane. Vols. I. and II. now ready. Price, $2 50 each.
Shakespeare’s Works. Edited, with a Scrupulous Revision of the Text, by Mary Cowden Clarke, Author of the “Complete Concordance to Shakespeare.” 1 vol. 8vo. 1064 pages. Illustrated with 49 Illustrations. Half mor., top gilt, $6; half calf, $7 50; mor., extra, $10.
—— 2 vols. 1600 pages. Illustrated with 49 Steel Plates. Half mor., top edges gilt, $8; half calf, $10; full mor., extra, $15.
Education; Intellectual; Moral; and Physical. By Herbert Spencer, Author of “Social Statics,” the “Principles of Psychology,” and “Essays; Scientific, Political, and Speculative.” 1 vol. 12mo. $1.
A Christmas Dream. By James T. Brady. Illustrated by Edward S. Hall.
The Illustrated Horse Doctor: being an Accurate and Detailed Account, accompanied by more than 400 Pictorial Representations of the Various Diseases to which the Equine Race is subjected; together with the Latest Mode of Treatment, and all the Requisite Prescriptions, written in plain English. By Edward Mayhew, M. R. C. V. S., Author of “The Horse’s Mouth;” “Dogs: their Management;” Editor of “Blain’s Veterinary Art,” etc. (Nearly ready.)
The New American Cyclopædia: a Popular Dictionary of General Knowledge. Edited by George Ripley and Chas. A. Dana. Vols. I. to X. To be completed in 16 vols. Price in cloth, $3; sheep, $3 50; half mor., $4; half russia, $4 50.
Abridgment of the Debates of Congress from 1789 to 1856. From Gales and Seaton’s Annals of Congress; from their Register of Debates; and from the Official Reported Debates, by John C. Rives. By Thomas H. Benton, Author of the “Thirty Years’ View.” Vols. I. to XIV. now ready. To be completed in 16 vols. Price in cloth, $3 per vol.; law sheep, $3 50; half mor., $4.
Villas on the Hudson: a Series of Thirty-one Photo-Lithographs of Gentlemen’s Seats on the Hudson. Oblong 4to. Cloth, $8; half mor., $10.
The Illustrated Byron. With upwards of Two Hundred Engravings from Original Drawings, by Kenny Meadows, Birket Foster, Hallet K. Browne, Gustav Janet, and Edward Morin. (Nearly ready.)
Fables, Original and Selected; with an Introductory Dissertation on the History of Fable, comprising Bibliographical Notices of Eminent Fabulists. By G. Moir Bussey. Illustrated with Numerous Engravings from Designs by J. J. Granville. (Nearly ready.)
Adventures of Telemachus. Translated by Dr. Hawkesworth. Embellished with upwards of 100 Engravings, by first-rate artists. 1 vol. 8vo. (Nearly ready.)
Adventures of Gil Blas, of Santillane. Translated from the French of Le Sage by T. Smollett, M. D. Embellished with 500 Engravings after Designs by Gignoux. (Nearly ready.)
On the Origin of Species by Means of Natural Selection; or, the Preservation of favored Races in the Struggle for Life. By Charles Darwin, M.A., F.R.S., F.G.S., &c., &c. 1 vol. 12mo. With copious Index. Cloth, $1 25.
After the Icebergs with a Painter. By Louis L. Noble. 1 vol. 12mo. With Illustrations. (Nearly ready.)
The Manufacture of Photogenic or Hydro-carbon Oils, from Coal and other Bituminous Substances, capable of supplying Burning Fluids. By Thomas Antisell, M.D., Professor of Chemistry in the Medical Department of Georgetown College, D. C., &c., &c. 1 vol. 8vo. Beautifully printed. Cloth, $1 75.
Considerations on some of the Elements and Conditions of Social Welfare and Human Progress. Being Academic and Occasional Discourses and other Pieces. By C. S. Henry, D.D. 1 vol. 12mo. $1.
Science Brought Down to the Year 1860. Being a Supplement to Ure’s Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures, and Mines. Taken from the English Edition. With additions by an American Editor. (Nearly ready.) 8vo.
Milledulcia: a Thousand Pleasant Things. Selected from “Notes and Queries.” 12mo. Cloth, top edge gilt, $1 50; in half calf, $3; morocco antique, $3 50.
Chambers’s Encyclopædia: a Dictionary of Universal Knowledge for the People. Now publishing in Parts. Part 19 now ready. Price 15 cents each Part.
A Greek Grammar, for Schools and Colleges. By James Hadley, Professor in Yale College. 12mo. 366 pages. $1 25.
Virgil’s Æneid; with Explanatory Notes. By Henry S. Frieze, Professor of Latin in the State University of Michigan. 12mo. Eighty-five illustrations. 598 pages. $1 25.
Spanish Grammar. A New, Practical, and Easy Method of Learning the Spanish Language, after the system of A. F. Ahn, Doctor of Philosophy, and Professor at the College of Neuss. First American edition, revised and enlarged. 12mo. 149 pages. 75 cents. Key, 15 cents.
An Elementary Grammar of the Italian Language. Progressively arranged for the use of Schools and Colleges. By G. B. Fontana. 12mo. 236 pages. $1.
Plato’s Apology and Crito; with Notes. By W. S. Tyler, Graves Professor of Greek in Amherst College. 12mo. 180 pages. 75 cents.
French Syntax. A Course of Exercises in all parts of French Syntax, methodically arranged after Poitevin’s “Syntaxe Française;” to which are added ten appendices; designed for the use of Academies, Colleges, and Private Learners. By Frederick T. Winkelmann, A.M. & Ph. D., Prof. of Latin, French, and German, in the Packer Collegiate Institute. 12mo. 366 pages. $1.
Appleton’s Railway Guide. Containing Time Tables of all the Railroads in the United States. Illustrated by Maps of the Principal Roads and Through Routes, and a large General Map. Published semi-monthly. Price 25 cts.
Appleton’s Companion Handbook of Travel, containing a full Description of the Principal Cities, Towns, and Places of Interest, together with Hotels, and Routes of Travel through the United States and the Canadas. With colored Maps. Edited by T. Addison Richards. Paper covers, 50 cts.; cloth, 75 cts.
Appleton’s Illustrated Handbook of Travel. A Guide by Railway, Steamboat, and Stage, to the Cities, Towns, Waterfalls, Mountains, Rivers, Lakes, Hunting and Fishing Grounds, Watering Places, Summer Resorts, and all Scenes and Objects of Interest in the United States and British Provinces. By T. Addison Richards. With careful Maps of all parts of the Country, and 200 Pictures of Famous Scenes and Places. From Original drawings by the Author and other Artists. 1 vol. 12mo. 400 pages, double columns. Flexible cloth. Price $1 50. The Northern and Eastern States separately, $1. The Southern and Western States separately, $1.
Beaumont and Fletcher’s Works. The Poetical and Dramatic Works of Beaumont and Fletcher. With an Introduction by George Darley, to which is added Notes and Glossary. 2 handsome vols. Royal 8vo. Well printed. Cloth, $6; in sheep, $7; half calf, extra, $9.
Moral Emblems, with Aphorisms, Adages, and Proverbs, of all Ages and Nations. From Jacob Catz and Robert Fairlie. With 120 Illustrations truly rendered from Designs found in their Works, by John Leighton, F. S. A. The whole Translated and Edited, with Additions, by Richard Pigot. 1 vol. Royal 8vo. Cloth gilt, $7 50; mor., $10; mor., extra, $12.
The Adventures of Brown, Jones, and Robinson. The Most Amusing Adventures of Three English Gentlemen bearing the above euphonious names. Each incident in their Travels on the Continent is Illustrated by a Spirited Design of a Laughable Character. 1 vol. 4to. (Nearly ready.)
Hopes and Fears; or; Scenes from the Life of a Spinster: a Novel. By the Author of “The Heir of Redclyffe.” (Nearly ready.)
A History of Civilization. By Henry T. Buckle. Vol. I. Price, $2 50. Vol. II. (Nearly ready.)
The History of Herodotus. A new English version. Edited with copious Notes and Appendices, illustrating the History and Geography of Herodotus, from the most Ancient Sources of Information; and embodying the Chief Results, Historical and Ethnographical, which have been obtained in the progress of Cuneiform and Hieroglyphical Discovery. By George Rawlinson, M. A., assisted by Col. Sir. Henry Rawlinson and Sir J. G. Wilkinson. With Maps and Illustrations. 4 vols. 8vo. Price $2 50 each.
Reminiscences of a General Officer of Zouaves. By Gen. Cler. Translated from the French. 1 vol. 12mo. Cloth, $1.
Life of William T. Porter. By Francis Brinley. 1 vol. 12mo. $1.
The Ebony Idol. By a Lady of New England. 1 vol. 12mo. Illustrated. $1.
What may be Learned from a Tree. By Harland Coultas. 1 vol. 8vo. $1.
The Physiology of Common Life. By Geo. Henry Lewes. 2 vols. 12mo. $2.
Notes on Nursing; What it Is, and What it is Not. By Florence Nightingale. 1 vol. 12mo. Paper covers, 15 cents; cloth, 25 cents.
Dr. Oldham at Greystones, and his Talk there. 1 vol. 12mo. Price $1.
Voyage Down the Amoor; with a Journey through Siberia, and Incidental Notes of Manchoria, Kamschatka, and Japan. By Perry McDonough Collins. 1 vol. 12mo. Cloth, $1 25.
A Run Through Europe. By Erastus C. Benedict. 1 vol. 12mo. Price $1 25.
The History of the State of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations. By the Hon. Samuel Greene Arnold. 2 vols. Price $5.
Transcriber’s Notes:
Archaic spellings and hyphenation have been retained. Punctuation and obvious typesetting errors have been corrected without note. Some illustrations have been moved slightly from their original positions to keep paragraphs intact. There are many references to St. Johns, Newfoundland throughout the book which have been left as printed but which would normally be spelled as St. John’s.
page xiv, Steamer for St. Johns, New Brunswick. ==> references to [St. Johns, New Brunswick] in the Contents and throughout Chapter LXIV most likely refer to St. John, New Brunswick.
page xiv, Mines Basin. ==> [Mines Basin] as given in the Contents and within Chapter LXIV most likely refer to Minas Basin.
page 326, to Truro, on [Mines Bay], ==> likely refers to Minas Basin
[End of After Icebergs with a Painter, by Louis Legrand Noble]