| PAGE |
| CHAPTER I. |
| PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY—MALCOLM GOES ON AHEAD | [1] |
| CHAPTER II. |
| BALTAL—LEH—I REJOIN MALCOLM—THE CHINESE PASSPORTARRIVES | [20] |
| CHAPTER III. |
| FOLLOWING THE INDUS—EGU—WAITING AT SHUSHAL—AWARNING | [40] |
| CHAPTER IV. |
| MUN—LUDHKONG—TOUCHING FRIENDSHIP OF MULE AND PONY—NIAGZU | [50] |
| CHAPTER V. |
| MORTALITY AMONG SHEEP—LAKE TREB—THE NAPU LA PASS—SICKNESSOF BAKR HADJI—RUDOK OFFICIALS COMMAND USTO RETREAT | [60] |
| CHAPTER VI. |
| OUR RETREAT—CROSSING THE BORDERLAND OF TIBET—ASTRANGE ACCOUCHEMENT—SPORT—PONIES SHOT | [74] |
| CHAPTER VII. |
| A COLD NIGHT—DEATH OF MULE—A FRESH-WATER LAKE—BADWEATHER—DEATH OF THE FAVOURITE WHITE PONY—BYA SALT LAKE—ILLNESS OF TOKHTA—I SEARCH FORMISSING ANIMALS | [81] |
| CHAPTER VIII. |
| LAKE LIGHTEN—INTENSE HEAT—AN OLD FIREPLACE—SERIOUSACCIDENT THROUGH OVER-HASTE OF MULES TO DRINK—ACOUP D'ŒIL—THE FIRST FLOWER—OUR PET SHEEP—ANOTHERFRESH-WATER LAKE—A PLEASANT BATH—DEATHOF ANIMALS AND DEARTH OF GRAIN | [90] |
| CHAPTER IX. |
| TERRIBLE GUN ACCIDENT—WE SEND OUT SCOUTS | [104] |
| CHAPTER X. |
| I SHOOT A YAK—DEATH OF ANOTHER MULE—"HELMET HILL"—WELEAVE TOKHTA AND SULLOO BEHIND—REDUCED TOTWELVE ANIMALS—A MULE'S ADVENTURE | [116] |
| CHAPTER XI. |
| SHOOTING AN ANTELOPE—SNOW—A MYSTERIOUS TRACK—THEBED OF AN ANCIENT LAKE—EMOTION OF MAHOMED RAHIM—VARIABLEWEATHER—MORE ANTELOPES SHOT—THEODOLITEBROKEN—EXTRAORDINARILY SUDDEN WIND—HUNGERv. CEREMONY—NEW FINDS | [127] |
| CHAPTER XII. |
| A FOOTPRINT—SHAHZAD MIR INDISPOSED—DESERTION OF MULETEERS—ARAINY NIGHT | [141] |
| CHAPTER XIII. |
| RETURN OF THE DESERTERS—SHUKR ALI—LONG MARCHES—DEATHOF EIGHT MULES AND A PONY—A CHEERING REPAST | [152] |
| CHAPTER XIV. |
| A SERPENTINE RIVER—HUNGER—MARMOTS—A PLEASANTCAMPING | [164] |
| CHAPTER XV. |
| SHOOTING—A TROUBLESOME MULE—A YAK CEMETERY—I CHASEA KYANG—TENDER HEARTS—INSCRIBED STONES—LASSOOAND SHUKR ALI SICK—AN ARDUOUS CROSSING | [172] |
| CHAPTER XVI. |
| ANOTHER CHULA—MOUNTAINS—A QUEER ILLUSION—STRANGEVOICES—WE FIND WE ARE DESCENDING—A TIBETAN CAMP—ESAUSENT AS AN AMBASSADOR—AN INVITATION | [185] |
| CHAPTER XVII. |
| WE CATCH UP THE MERCHANT'S CAMP—TIBETAN HOSPITALITY—WEFIND THAT WE HAVE DISCOVERED THE SOURCE OF THECHU MA—BARGAINING | [195] |
| CHAPTER XVIII. |
| MANAGEMENT OF THE TIBETAN CARAVAN—TEA WITH THE MERCHANT—SHUGATZARIVER—FRICTION—AN ALARM | [204] |
| CHAPTER XIX. |
| WE LEAVE THE KUSHOK—A USELESS CLIMB—SIGNS OF ADISASTROUS JOURNEY—A HOUSE OF PRAYER—MALCOLMSHOOTS A BEAR—ANXIETY FOR FOOD | [218] |
| CHAPTER XX. |
| FOLLOWING THE NAMORAN—WE SPLIT INTO THREE PARTIES—WEMEET SOME YOUNG MONGOLS—THEIR HOSPITALITY—LOBSAN—THEBANA TRIBES | [227] |
| CHAPTER XXI. |
| WITH THE MONGOLS—A HOSPITABLE OLD LADY—ON THE WAY TOTANKAR—A POISONOUS STREAM—BANA TENTS—I ABSTRACTAN INSCRIBED BONE—OUR COLDEST NIGHT—A WONDERFULPLACE—KANJUR RUNGYUM | [240] |
| CHAPTER XXII. |
| ESAU AND I SET OFF—RECEPTION FROM THE BANAS—WE ARRIVEAT TANKAR—A FRIENDLY GUIDE—AN ABSURD TIP—DR. RIJNHART—TEAWITH LHASSA OFFICIALS—ARRIVAL OF MALCOLMAND THE MONGOLS—CHEN-LAO-PAN—CHINESE ETIQUETTE | [256] |
| CHAPTER XXIII. |
| A VISIT TO CHEN-LAO-PAN—COLONEL YANG—THE DAUGHTER OFPRINCE KOKO NOR—A VISIT TO THE MONASTERY OF KUMBUM | [267] |
| CHAPTER XXIV. |
| THE STORY OF THE FIRST BUDDHA OF THE EMPIRE—THE SACREDTREE—THE GOLD-TILED TEMPLE—PARTING FROM MINAFU-YEH—THE GREEN GLAZED-TILE TEMPLE—THE FLOWERTEMPLE—SIGNS OF THE MOHAMMEDAN REBELLION—AT THEMISSION HOUSE | [285] |
| CHAPTER XXV. |
| THE MOHAMMEDAN REBELLION IN CHINA, 1895–6 | [298] |
| CHAPTER XXVI. |
| PARTING FROM LOBSAN—STARTING FOR LANCHEO—A RUINEDSUBURB—GOOD DONE BY MISSIONARIES—WE TAKE LEAVEOF MR. RIDLEY—OUR FIRST CHINESE INN | [315] |
| CHAPTER XXVII. |
| SHANG TAN—HO TSUI TSI—FIRST VIEW OF THE YELLOW RIVER—ONA RAFT—AT LANCHEO—A TELEGRAPH TROUBLE | [325] |
| CHAPTER XXVIII. |
| WE PAY OFF SHUKR ALI—LANCHEO TO CHONG WEI—OFFICIALINCIVILITY—LOSE RUBY—SHAHZAD MIR MISTAKEN FOR AREBEL | [332] |
| CHAPTER XXIX. |
| MISSIONARY YARNS—CHEAP LIVING—ON THE YELLOW RIVERAGAIN—CASH | [352] |
| CHAPTER XXX. |
| PAO T'EO—THE SWEDISH MISSION-HOUSE—CHINESE SCHOOLS—CHINESEINNS—CHINESE BURIAL—KUEI HUA CHENG—FRICTIONWITH CARTERS—WE LEAVE THE MONGOL COUNTRY—THEGREAT WALL | [367] |
| CHAPTER XXXI. |
| HOW TO MANAGE INNKEEPERS AND CARTERS—SHUEN-HUA-FU—"SPIRIT'SPAPER"—SHAHZAD MIR LOST AND FOUND—ESAU'SPRESTIGE | [386] |
| CHAPTER XXXII. |
| A TRUCULENT INNKEEPER—A SEDAN CHAIR—CHINESE WOMENAND THEIR FEET—PEKIN—DEPARTURE OF RIJNHART—CARTERSEARN A BEATING | [398] |
| CHAPTER XXXIII. |
| BACK TO INDIA—DISILLUSIONMENT OF OUR FOLLOWERS WITHREGARD TO SOME OF THE BLESSINGS OF CIVILIZATION—MILITARYHOSPITALITY—RETURN TO CALCUTTA | [415] |
| APPENDICES | [423] |
| INDEX | [437] |