A climber in New Zealand

by Malcolm Ross

INDEX

• Accident to wagonette, [56];
• to Mr. Low, [166];
• to Turner, [305].
• Ada, Lake, [232].
• Adamson, [58], [91].
• Age Glacier, [240].
• Alpha, Mount, [124].
• Alpine Club, tribute to, [21].
• Ex-President, [21].
• Amery, L. M. S., [12].
• Annan, [30], [41].
• Aorangi conquered, [115].
• Architect’s Creek, [212].
• Arthur Valley, [224].
• River, [232].
• Aspiring, Mount, [10], [19].
• Austria, Emperor of, [3], [5].
• Avalanche shoot, an, [187].
• Avalanches, [78], [80], [95], [110], [130], [182], [290], [291].
• Ball Glacier, [40], [69].
• Hut, [14], [68], [160].
• Balloon, Mount, [223], [224].
• Beech trees, [120].
• Beret, Mount, [269].
• “Billy Barlow,” [208].
• Birch Hill station, [14], [55].
• Bivouac Rock, De la Bêche, [134], [143], [166].
• at Malte Brun, [181].
• in Tasman Valley, [35].
• Mount Cook, [15], [18], [61], [77], [87], [89], [102];
• view from, [62], [286].
• on Mueller, [131].
• on Plateau, [79], [87], [92], [93].
• on Tutoko, [254].
• Bivouacs on the Wataroa, [193], [199].
• Blue Lake, the, [32], [34].
• Boss, Emil, [14].
• Botanical paradise, a, [124].
• Bowen Falls, [233], [235].
• Broderick, Mr. T. N., [20].
• Brown, Professor Mainwaring, [216], [263].
• Buller, Mr. Percy, [270].
• Sir Walter, [123].
• Burke’s Pass, [54].
• Camp concert, [258].
• cookery, [37], [70], [220], [228], [279].
• in a storm, [101].
• life, [159].
• meditations, [42].
• on Tasman moraine, [58].
• Carrier Pigeons, [71], [91].
• Celmesia flat, [34].
• Celmesias, [123].
• Chamois, acclimatization of, [3].
• Churchill, [158].
• Clark, Jack, [17], [19], [109], [110], [168], [266].
• Cleddau River, [236].
• Clinton River, [261].
• Coach journey, [27].
• Conway, Mount, [19].
• Sir W. M., [280], [288].
• Cook, Mount, [10], [18], [19], [20], [22], [26], [268].
• (Bivouac), [15], [18], [61], [62], [77], [87], [89], [102], [286].
• descent of, [297].
• eastern arête, [82].
• final ice-cap, [98].
• first crossing of, [264].
• first traverse of, [18].
• Green’s attempts, [14].
• Hooker route, [105].
• hut, [34].
• ice-cap, view from, [99].
• middle peak, ascent of, [106].
• north-west arête, [112].
• ridge, cairn on, [113].
• summit reached, [113].
• summit of, [295].
• sunset on, [305].
• Cook-Hector Couloir, [111], [114].
• Copland River, [212].
• Couch, Quiller-, [147].
• Cox, Dr. Norman, [129], [134], [135], [143].
• Crow, orange-wattle, [242].
• Cuckoos, [122].
• Dadelszen, Miss von, [270].
• Dampier, Mount, [20].
• Darwin, Mount, [17], [271].
• Dawn on Mount Cook, [81].
• De la Bêche, [17], [36], [99], [165].
• and the Minarets, [165].
• Bivouac, [134], [143], [166].
• Dieffenbach, [6].
• Dixon, M., [17], [53], [57], [61], [81], [86], [100], [103].
• Dobson, G., [17].
• Donne, T. E., [3].
• Douglas, Mount, [19].
• Du Faur, Miss, [20].
• Dundas, Mount, [124].
• Earle, L. M., [19].
• Earnslaw, Mount, [121].
• Edelweiss, [124], [218].
• Elie de Beaumont, [19], [99], [267], [272].
• Elliot, Mount, [224].
• Empress Glacier, [107].
• Fairlie Creek, [25].
• Fiddian, Dick, [210], [211].
• Fitchett, Dr., [270].
• Fitzgerald, E. A., [18], [53], [160].
• Fitzgerald’s Pass, [208], [213].
• Footstool, the, [17], [19].
• Forrest Ross Glacier, [41], [145].
• Fox Glacier, [154].
• Freshfield, Douglas, [119].
• Glacier, [40].
• Frying-pan Flat, [8].
• Fyfe, T. C., [17], [18], [49], [53], [69], [81], [83], [88], [89], [96], [98], [100], [103], [105], [106], [129], [179], [236], [261], [264], [298], [302].
• in Wataroa River, [202].
• leg injured, [194], [195], [199].
• Gillespie’s Beach, [207], [208], [209], [210].
• Glacier Peak, [19].
• action, [217].
• Dome, [78], [92], [100], [289].
• Glaciers, ancient, [54].
• Glentanner station, [55], [75].
• Glissading, [84], [108].
• Godley Glacier, [54], [178].
• Graham, Alexander, [18], [19], [20].
• George, [17], [69], [95], [103], [105], [109], [113].
• Peter, [19], [20], [168], [290], [298], [299], [302], [304].
• Grampus, chased by, [235].
• Grand Plateau, [78].
• camp on, [79], [87], [92], [94], [100].
• Great Bear, the, [252].
• Grebe, crested, [242].
• Green, Rev. W. S., [14], [21], [24], [31], [32], [40], [98].
• Mount, [271].
• (porter), [285].
• Green’s Fifth Camp, [31], [47], [52].
• Rocks, [85], [95], [100].
• route, attempts by, [65], [105].
• Saddle, [105], [111], [112], [113].
• Grey warbler, the, [123].
• Gunn, Alexander, [206].
• Haast, Dr. von, [17].
• Glacier, [40].
• Mount, [19], [99], [290], [293].
• Haidinger, Mount, [18].
• ascent of, [144], [154].
• Hall’s Arm, [263].
• Harper, A. P., [53], [160], [178].
• Hart, Mount, [223].
• Head, Captain, [19].
• Hector-Cook Couloir, [111], [114].
• Hector, Mount, southern arête, [112].
• Hermitage, the, [29], [53], [90].
• Hickson, Miss, [270].
• Highland hills, [118].
• Hochstetter, [6].
• Dome, [189].
• Glacier, [39], [46], [79], [94], [102].
• Ice Fall, [40].
• Hodgkins, Messrs. B. and F., [71].
• W. J. P., [129], [137], [143], [236], [250], [261].
• Höhnel, Rear-Admiral Ritter von, [3], [5].
• Holdsworth, Mount, [118], [120].
• Homer’s Pass, [263].
• Hooker Cage, [30], [33], [48], [57].
• bergschrund, [109], [111], [114], [308].
• Glacier, [106], [110].
• camp on, [106].
• River, [30], [74], [266], [284].
• route, [105].
• Hot springs, [196].
• Howitt, Mr., [17].
• Huddleston, Mr., [48].
• Ice-axe lost, [96], [113].
• -cap, descent from, [99].
• falling, [85].
• Islington, Lord, [21].
• Jervois Glacier, [224].
• Johnson, Dr., [118], [119].
• Jukes, Mount, [99].
• Kaka, the, [122], [242].
• Kakapos, [227], [238], [241].
• Kaufmann, Ulrich, [14].
• Keas, [3], [4], [32], [47], [137], [142], [162], [267], [279].
• Ketetahi, [8].
• Kinsey, J. J., [150].
• Kiwi Land, in, [215].
• Kiwis, [241].
• Kron Prinz Rudolf Glacier, [169].
• Kronecker, Dr. Franz, [17], [181].
• Lamb, Charles, [163].
• Lendenfeld, Frau von, [25].
• Dr. von, [31], [32], [36].
• Mount, [19], [293].
• Saddle, [276].
• Liebig Range, [37].
• Linda Glacier, [15], [80], [81], [85], [87], [94], [100].
• Lindon, Mr., [276], [277], [282].
• Mrs., [20], [276], [277], [282].
• Longton, Mr. and Mrs., [270].
• Low, R. S., [18], [165], [166].
• Mackenzie, Hon. Thos., [216].
• Plains, [26], [99].
• MacKinnon, Quintin, [222], [262], [263].
• Malte Brun Bivouac, [181].
• Mount, [17], [19], [294].
• Range, [37], [40], [70], [81], [99], [135].
• Mannering, G. E., [17], [52].
• Marchant Glacier, [212].
• Mark Twain, [211].
• Matheson, [69], [70], [73], [74].
• Maungaterera River, [120].
• M‘Donald, Claude, [19].
• M‘Intosh, W., [270].
• Milford Sound, [10], [222], [233].
• Minarets, the, [18], [165], [175].
• Mintaro, Lake, [222], [224], [258].
• Mitre, the, [124].
• Peak, [235].
• Moa, the, [243].
• Mountain duck, [242].
• Mueller Glacier, [130], [131].
• Bivouac, [131].
• Mummery, [20], [281].
• Murchison Glacier, [37], [267].
• River, [267], [268].
• Nansen, [176].
• Newton, Rev. Mr., [18], [19], [165].
• Ngapukaturua, Mount, [125].
• Ngatimamoe tribe, [217].
• Ngauruhoe, [6], [8], [9].
• North Island, fauna and flora, [121].
• Nor’-wester, the, [54].
• Notornis Mantelli, [242].
• Nun’s Veil, [267].
• Okarito, [208].
• Omega, Mount, [124].
• Pacific breakers, [155].
• Ocean, [99].
• Paradise ducks, [36], [75].
• Parker, Gilbert, [156].
• Penguin Rocks, [145].
• Photography under difficulties, [96].
• Pigeons, wood, [122].
• Pioneers, the, [17].
• Plateau Bivouac, [79], [87], [92], [93].
• Precipices on Mount Cook, [300].
• Priestley, [147].
• Pukaki, Lake, [26], [99].
• River, [27], [75].
• Quill, William, [238], [263].
• Ramsay, Professor, [118].
• Ranunculus insignis, [123], [190].
• Lyallii, [132].
• Raoulia Rubra, [124].
• Red Admiral butterfly, [121].
• Crater, [8].
• Reeves, Hon. W. P., [126].
• Ribbon-wood, [159].
• Rimutaka Railway, [116].
• Roaring Creek, [225].
• Roberts, G. J., [178].
• Rock avalanche, [113], [114], [131].
• Rohutu, [206].
• Ross, D. M., [9].
• John, [261].
• Kenneth, [53], [61], [78], [100], [101], [103], [226], [236], [250], [260], [261].
• Mrs. Malcolm, [33], [37], [41], [119], [129], [131], [137], [228], [233], [261].
• —, station manager, [75].
• Rothschild, Lord, [243].
• Route-finding, [165].
• Ruapehu, [6].
• Rubber shoes, [153].
• Ruskin, [218].
• Schönbrunn, [3], [4].
• Scott, Captain, [63].
• Scott’s Homestead, [211].
• Sealy, Mount, [19].
• Pass, [178].
• Range, [48], [132].
• Seddon, Hon. Mr., [206].
• Sefton, Mount, [18], [19], [130], [132].
• Shackleton, Sir E., [63].
• Sillem, H., [19].
• Sinclair, Dr., [17].
• Ski, [57], [86], [94].
• Southern Alps, [9], [209].
• Cross, the, [252].
• Stars, [252].
• Spencer, Professor Baldwin, [276], [282].
• St. David’s Dome, [19].
• camp near, [109], [110], [114].
• Stevenson, Robert Louis, [161], [252].
• Stokes, Mount, [110], [309].
• Stones, falling, [113], [114].
• Storm on Glacier Dome, [100].
• at Mount Cook Bivouac, [65].
• at hut, [73].
• Stott, L., [276].
• Sugar as a food, [288].
• Sun-bonnet brigade, [159].
• Sunset on Mount Cook, [305].
• Sutherland, Mount, [224].
• Mr. and Mrs., [238], [284].
• Swagging in the Alps, [135].
• Swags in couloir, [68], [78], [89], [103].
• Sydney Bulletin, [172].
• Takitimo Range, [217].
• Tararua Forest, [120].
• Range, [116].
• Tarawera eruption, [7].
• Tasman Glacier, [18], [99], [294].
• Moraine, [31], [36].
• Mount, [15], [18], [20], [40], [99], [293], [295].
• River, [54], [55].
• Spur, [92].
• Taupo, Lake, [6].
• Te Anau, Lake, [262].
• navigation, [218].
• Te Heuheu, [6].
• Te Mari, [8].
• Teichelman, Dr., [18], [19], [165].
• Tekapo, Lake, [26], [99].
• Terraces, Pink and White, [7].
• The Times, [11].
• “The Times” Glacier, [272].
• Thompson, Hughie, [209].
• Thomson, D., [20].
• Thrush, the New Zealand, [242].
• Tongariro, [8].
• Torris Peak, [19].
• Totara berries, [44].
• Tourist Department, [3].
• Turner, Samuel, [74], [264], [274], [275], [299], [302], [304], [305].
• Tutoko, Mount, [240], [251], [254].
• Tyndall, Professor, [296].
• Valleys, in the, [128].
• Vegetable sheep, [123].
• Victoria Glacier, [155].
• Volcanic mountains, [5].
• Waimangu geyser, [7].
• Waingawa fever, [120].
• Wairarapa Plain, [117].
• Wakatipu, [10].
• Lake, [218].
• Walter, Mount, [271], [272].
• Wanaka, [10].
• Warbrick, Joe, death of, [7].
• Ward, Sir Joseph, [3].
• Wataroa River, [178], [191], [202], [203].
• Water-power, [11].
• Weka, the, [241].
• West Coasters, the, [211].
• White Island, [6].
• Whymper Glacier, [183], [189], [190].
• Wild cattle, [204].
• Williams, the Misses, [158].
• Wood pigeon, [242].
• Wrens, Alpine, [36].
• Ziele, C., [226], [261].
• Zurbriggen arête, [290].
• Mattias, [18], [22], [53], [160], [295].
• Zurbriggen’s axe, [150].

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Mr. Edward Arnold’s

SPRING
ANNOUNCEMENTS, 1914.

KULU AND LAHOUL.

An Account of my Latest Climbing Journeys in the Himalaya.

By LIEUT.-COL. THE HON. C. G. BRUCE, M.V.O.

6TH GURKHA RIFLES; AUTHOR OF “TWENTY YEARS IN THE HIMALAYA.”

With Numerous Illustrations from the Author’s Photographs.

One Volume. Demy 8vo. =12s. 6d. net.=

It has been said that no one can ever hope to know more than a few corners of the Himalaya. Yet an exception must surely be made in favour of Colonel Bruce. Outside Nepal there is no considerable section of the range, from Sikkim to Chitral and Hunza, with which he has not some personal acquaintance, while of Nepal itself he knows as much as is possible for a European. This has been shown in his valuable earlier work, “Twenty Years in the Himalaya,” in which he describes his varied experiences as a mountaineer and an officer of the Gurkhas, including ascents in the company of Conway, Mummery, Longstaff, and other well-known climbers.

In his latest expedition Colonel Bruce filled up his most considerable outstanding gap by a thorough exploration of the mountains of Kulu and Lahoul, which have hitherto been neglected by climbers. The country visited lies nearly due north of Simla, in the centre of the group of small states which intervene between Garhwal and Kashmir, and a very large amount of most interesting ground was covered in the six months spent there. The record is not a mere tale of mountaineering achievement, for the author treats his subject lightly, and at the same times brings his wide knowledge of native life into play in describing the history and folklore of the two districts. Mrs. Bruce contributes a chapter on “A Lady’s Point of View.”

LONDON: EDWARD ARNOLD, 41 & 43 MADDOX STREET, W.

A CLIMBER IN NEW ZEALAND.

By MALCOLM ROSS, A.C., F.R.G.S.

With numerous beautiful Illustrations. Demy 8vo.

Probable price, 15s. net.

A work dealing with climbs and exploration in the New Zealand Alps. As one of the founders and Vice-President of the New Zealand Alpine Club, and editor of its journal, the author is well qualified to write on the subject of climbing and mountain exploration in his native land.

The charm and adventures attendant upon exploration in the Alps of a new country are most graphically described. Indeed, there is not a dull page in the whole book, while some of the adventures were of quite a thrilling nature. The book is something more than a mere record of ascents. From beginning to end it has quite a literary flavour, and there is, also, running through its pages a quaint vein of humour and philosophy. Such chapters as “Above the Plains” and “An Interlude” will appeal to a wide circle of readers. Mrs. Malcolm Ross, a well-known New Zealand authoress, comes into the book a good deal, and her amusing descriptions of camp cookery and of the Kea, or mountain parrot, add to the interest of the work of her daring and talented husband. The author has illustrated his book with some very excellent and artistic pictures from his own photographs.