Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment

by Marianne Ostier

THE BIRTHSTONES

Garnet JANUARY	Amethyst FEBRUARY
Aquamarine MARCH	Diamond APRIL

Emerald MAY	Pearl Alexandrite JUNE
Ruby JULY	Peridot AUGUST

Sapphire SEPTEMBER	Opal Tourmaline OCTOBER
Topaz NOVEMBER	Turquoise Zircon DECEMBER

Contents

Foreword	[17]
[PART 1: Jewels: History, Character, Magic]
Chapter 1: The Story of Jewels	[23]
THE EARLIEST USES [23] EGYPT AND THE NEAR EAST [26] WESTWARD TO THE GREEKS [29] ETRUSCAN ACHIEVEMENTS [30] THE ROMAN CONQUEST [31] THE VOGUE OF THE PEARL [41] ROMAN LUXURY [42] THE TIDE TURNS EAST [42] EASTWARD TO INDIA [43] OVER THE CHINESE WALL [44] DARK AGE OF THE DIAMOND [45] TRIBES TO THE NORTH [45] THE CELTS AND THE EMERALD ISLE [46] THE ANGLO-SAXONS [47] JEWELS IN ENGLISH HISTORY [47] EDWARD THE CONFESSOR’S JEWELS [48] GROWTH OF THE GOLDSMITHS’ GUILD [48] THE ITALIANS IN THE RENAISSANCE [49] THE RENAISSANCE ACROSS EUROPE [50] THE REFORMATION [51] THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY [52] ON THE ROMANTICS [53] INTO THE NINETEENTH CENTURY [54] THE TWENTIETH CENTURY [55]
Chapter 2: What the Stones Are	[57]
WHAT THE STONES ARE [57] THE GEMS [58] DIAMOND [58] RUBY [60] SAPPHIRE [62] EMERALD [63] PEARL [64] OTHER STONES [67] ALEXANDRITE [68] AMETHYST [68] AQUAMARINE [69] BERYL [69] CARNELIAN [70] CAT’S-EYE [70] CHALCEDONY [71] CHRYSOBERYL [71] CHRYSOLITE [71] CHRYSOPRASE [72] CITRINE [72] CORAL [72] GARNET [73] HYACINTH [74] JACINTH [74] JADE [74] JASPER [75] JET [75] KUNZITE [76] LAPIS LAZULI [76] MALACHITE [77] MOONSTONE [77] ONYX [77] OPAL [78] PERIDOT [79] QUARTZ [79] SARD [80] SARDONYX [80] SPINEL [80] TOPAZ [81] TOURMALINE [81] TURQUOISE [82] ZIRCON [82]
Chapter 3: Birthstones and the Magic of Gems	[83]
THE SEASONS [83] THE DAYS OF THE WEEK [84] SUNDAY [84] MONDAY [84] TUESDAY [85] WEDNESDAY [85] THURSDAY [85] FRIDAY [86] SATURDAY [86] THE MONTHS [87] TABLE OF BIRTHSTONES [87] JANUARY—GARNET [88] FEBRUARY—AMETHYST [89] MARCH—AQUAMARINE [90] APRIL—DIAMOND [91] MAY—EMERALD [92] JUNE—PEARL [94] JULY—RUBY [96] AUGUST—SARDONYX OR PERIDOT [97] SEPTEMBER—SAPPHIRE [99] OCTOBER—OPAL [100] NOVEMBER—TOPAZ [102] DECEMBER—TURQUOISE [104] SIGNS OF THE STARS [113] THE ZODIAC [113] ARIES, THE RAM [114] TAURUS, THE BULL [114] GEMINI, THE TWINS [115] CANCER, THE CRAB [115] LEO, THE LION [115] VIRGO, THE VIRGIN [115] LIBRA, THE SCALES [116] SCORPIO, THE SCORPION [116] SAGITTARIUS, THE ARCHER [116] CAPRICORN, THE GOAT [116] AQUARIUS, THE WATER CARRIER [117] PISCES, THE FISHES [117]
[PART 2: The Art of Feminine Adornment]
Chapter 4: The Art of Feminine Adornment	[121]
ROYAL CROWNS OF BRITAIN [122] EVERYWOMAN’S QUEEN [123] A STONE’S BEST SETTING [123] TYPES OF WOMEN [124] THE MAJOR METALS [125] THE BASIC DESIGNS [125]
Chapter 5: The Earclip	[127]
THE SUPREME IMPORTANCE OF THE EARCLIP [127] EARRINGS THROUGH THE AGES [127] THE SIGNIFICANCE OF THE EARS [129] THE EARCLIP AND THE FACIAL CONTOUR [130] THE SHAPE OF YOUR FACE [131] DETAILS OF THE FACE [132] VERSATILE EARCLIPS [133] THE HAIR AND THE EARCLIP [133] THE BRUNETTE [134] THE DARK-HAIRED [134] THE REDHEAD [135] THE BLONDE [135] AS THE HAIR TURNS GREY [136] IMPORTANT CONSIDERATIONS IN SELECTING EARCLIPS [136]
Chapter 6: The Necklace	[139]
THE SYMBOLISM OF THE NECKLACE [139] THE GENERAL EFFECT [140] THE DIAMOND NECKLACE [141] THE RIVIÈRE [141] THE BAGUETTE NECKLACE [142] THE PEARL NECKLACE [142] THE COLORS OF THE PEARL [143] FOR THE BRUNETTE [143] FOR THE BLONDE AND THE REDHEAD [144] FOR A LONG NECK [144] FOR A WIDE NECK [145] SIZE OF PEARLS [145] THE PROPER STRINGING OF PEARLS [145] THE NECKLACE CLASP [146] DESIGNS FOR CLASPS [146] FOR FORMAL WEAR [147] THE SENTIMENTAL CLASP [148] FITTING THE PEARL NECKLACE [148] THE BEAD NECKLACE [149] FASHIONS FROM INDIA [149] OTHER NECKLACE JEWELS [150] THE NECKLACE OF GOLD [151] APPENDAGES: THE TASSEL [152] APPENDAGES: THE SINGLE DROP [152] TRANSFORMATIONS [153] MY OWN CONVERSIONS [153] WHAT A WOMAN WEARS, OTHERS SEE [154]
Chapter 7: The Ring	[157]
THE GIVING OF A RING [157] CONSIDER THE HAND [158] PROPORTIONS OF THE HAND [158] THE DIAMOND RING: THE ENGAGEMENT RING [159] THE WEDDING RING [160] THE WEARING OF THE BAND [161] THE PEARL RING [162] THE BLACK PEARL [162] DECORATIVE RINGS [163] MATCHED WITH EARCLIPS [164] INTERCHANGEABLE CENTERS [164] RING SIZES [165] RINGS AND NAIL POLISH [166] ABOUT WEARING A RING [166]
Chapter 8: The Bracelet	[169]
EARLY USES [169] THE EMPERORS OF INDIA [169] VARIOUS MATERIALS [170] TYPES OF BRACELETS [170] FAVORITE SHAPES [171] THE SPECIAL CLASP [171] BRACELET WIDTH [172] FOR THE SLIM ARM [172] FOR THE HEAVIER WRIST [172] FITTING A BRACELET [173] GENERAL THOUGHTS [173] THE ANKLET [174]
Chapter 9: Pins, Brooches and Clips	[175]
ELABORATE PINS [175] THE SIMPLER CLIP [176] ITS VERSATILITY [176] ITS PERSONALITY [185] THE CHANGE IN THE BROOCH [185] THE OLD DOUBLE CLIP [186] THE NEW DOUBLE CLIP [187] THE ABSTRACT DESIGN [187] THE FLOWER DESIGN [188] EARLIER FLOWERS [189] CURRENT VARIETIES [190] THE ROSE [190] THE SKINPIN [191] THE SCATTERPIN [191] THE JEWELLED HAIRPIN [192] THE MOBILE CLIP [192] THE SENTIMENTAL BROOCH [193] REPLICAS OF PETS [194] PINS HOLD MEMORIES [194] PRACTICAL PRINCIPLES [195]
Chapter 10: Watches	[197]
QUEEN ELIZABETH I [197] PRINCESS SOPHIA [197] EARLY FORMS [198] WHERE TO WEAR THE WATCH [199] JEWELLED HOURS [200] IN FRONT OF YOUR MIRROR [202]
[PART 3: The Etiquette of Wearing Jewels]
Chapter 11: The Etiquette of Wearing Jewels	[207]
EN ROUTE [208] WEEKEND [208] GARDEN PARTY [209] THE BEACH [209] ON THE GOLF COURSE [210] AT THE RACES [210] BUSINESS LUNCHEONS [211] THE CHARITY LUNCHEON [212] OPENING NIGHT [212] MATCHING THE GOWN [213] MATCHING THE MAN [213] SOME BASIC RULES [214] THE DINNER PARTY [215] THE WATCH [216] THE CIGARETTE CASE [216] THE HOSTESS [216] AT THE WHITE HOUSE [217] THE PRESIDENT’S DINNER [218] THE CAPTAIN’S DINNER [218] EMBASSY PARTIES [220] MEETING ROYALTY [221] CORONATION [221] A QUEEN’S CROWN [222] WHEN EVERY WOMAN IS QUEEN [223] THE BRIDESMAIDS [224] THE MOTHER OF THE BRIDE [225] THE WEDDING GUESTS [225] THE NEWBORN [226] THE ANNIVERSARY [227] TABLE OF ANNIVERSARY GIFTS [227] THE MORE SOLEMN TIME [228] AUDIENCE WITH THE POPE [229] IN MOURNING [229] OTHER OBSERVATIONS [230] COLOR COMBINATIONS [230] RESTRAINT [230] EYEGLASSES [231] THE LORGNETTE [231] THE CORSAGE [232] EMBROIDERY [232] MORE ABOUT BRACELETS [232] MORE ABOUT RINGS [234] GOLD JEWELS [234] IN THE SPOTLIGHT [234]
Chapter 12: Jewels as Gifts	[237]
GIVE YOURSELF [237] GIFTS OF LASTING VALUE [238] GIFTS TO THE BABY [238] TO THE MOTHER TOO [239] AS THE CHILD GROWS [239] ST. VALENTINE’S DAY [239] COLLEGE DAYS [240] THE WEDDING DAY [240] FOR THE BRIDESMAIDS [241] FOR THE USHERS [241] OTHER GIFTS TO THE BRIDE [242] PARENTS’ DAYS [242] FOR LATER BIRTHDAYS [243] GIFTS FOR THE MAN [244] THE WIFE’S ROLE [244] THE RIGHT ACCESSORIES [245] THE PERSONAL TOUCH [245] SPECIAL GIFTS [246] HISTORIC GIFTS [246] THE PRESENTATION OF A GIFT [247]
[PART 4: The Techniques and Care of Jewels]
Chapter 13: The Techniques of Gems	[259]
DEFINITIONS [259] LIGHT ON THE STONES [260] STAR GEMS [260] THE PEARL [261] CUTTING THE STONES [261] CABOCHON [262] FACETS [262] TYPES OF FACETING [263] HARDNESS OF THE STONES [264] QUALITIES OF A STONE [267] MEASUREMENT [268] THE PRECIOUS METALS [268] ALLOYS [269]
Chapter 14: The Care of Jewels	[271]
HOW TO CARE FOR JEWELS [271] HOME CARE [271] CLEANING DON’TS [272] PEARLS [272] REMINDERS [273] MORE CAUTIONING [274] FOR TRAVEL [274] INSURANCE [275] THE TRAVELING CASE [275] REGISTERING JEWELS [276] TRAVELING CAUTIONS [277]
Chapter 15: Jewelry Up to Date	[279]
THE OLD AND THE ANTIQUE [279] OLD JEWELRY WITH NEW POSSIBILITIES [280] THE CONTEMPORARY JEWELS [281] MODERN MOVEMENT [281] THE JEWELER AS ARTIST [283] VARIED STONES [283] VARIED TREATMENT [284] REMODELLING OF WATCHES [285] ADDING PEARLS [285] INFINITE RICHES IN A LITTLE ROOM [286]
[PART 5: The Story of Rings and Famous Stones]
Chapter 16: Romance of Rings	[289]
THE UNIVERSAL RING [289] THE MAGIC RING [289] DIVINING RINGS [290] RENAISSANCE REMEDY RINGS [291] VISIBILITY RINGS [292] RELIGIOUS RINGS [293] PRACTICAL RINGS [294] POISON RINGS [295] HONORARY RINGS [296] POSIES AND LOVERS’ RINGS [296] THE NUPTIAL RING [298] LESS SOLEMN MARRIAGE RINGS [299] COUNTING FINGERS [301] MEMORIAL RINGS [302]
Chapter 17: Some Famous Stones	[305]
THE BLACK PRINCE’S RUBY [305] OTHER PRECIOUS STONES [306] THE CRYSTAL PALACE [307] THE DIAMONDS [307] THE KOHINOOR [308] TAVERNIER [310] THE FLORENTINE [310] THE GREAT MOGUL [311] THE ORLOFF [311] THE SHAH OF PERSIA [312] THE GREAT TABLE [313] THE BLUE TAVERNIER [313] THE HOPE [314] THE JEHAN AKBAR SHAH [315] THE CULLINAN [315] THE EXCELSIOR [316] THE REGENT [316] THE SANCY [318] OUT OF THE EARTH [319]

List of Illustrations

[Frontispiece]
	THE BIRTHSTONES, COLORPLATES
[Following Page 32]
[1.]	GREEK EARRINGS, 5TH CENTURY B.C.
[2.]	CYPRIOTE PENDANT, 8TH CENTURY B.C.
[3.]	EARLY 18TH CENTURY ITALIAN BROOCH
[4.]	EGYPTIAN BRACELET, 4TH CENTURY B.C.
[5.]	ETRUSCAN RING
[6.]	18TH CENTURY ITALIAN RING
[7.]	CYPRIOTE RING
[8.]	ROMAN WREATH, 3RD CENTURY B.C.
[9.]	INSIDE VIEW OF THE FAMOUS OLD TIFFANY STORE, NEW YORK, 1875
[10.]	THE CROWNING OF A QUEEN
[11.]	THE BRITISH CROWN JEWELS
[12.]	THE BRITISH CROWN JEWELS
[13.]	REMODELLING THE IMPERIAL STATE CROWN
[14.]	EMPRESS ELISABETH OF AUSTRIA
[Following Page 104]
[15.]	QUEEN ELIZABETH II
[16.]	PEARL AND BAGUETTE DIAMOND EARCLIPS
[17.]	DEEP SEA ALGAE
[18.]	DOUBLE ROSE CLIP
[19.]	DIAMOND AND PEARL LEAVES
[20.]	PEARL AND DIAMOND NECKLACE
[21.]	PEARL RING
[22.]	QUEEN GERALDINE OF ALBANIA
[23.]	DIAMOND NECKLACE
[24.]	DIAMONDS CAUGHT IN A NET
[25.]	NECKLACE FOR A BRIDE
[26.]	DIAMOND PINCUSHION ORNAMENT
[27.]	DIAMOND PINCUSHION ORNAMENT
[28.]	MARIANNE OSTIER
[Following Page 176]
[29.]	MRS. FREDERIC GIMBEL
[30.]	BELLFLOWER BROOCH AND EARCLIPS
[31.]	BRACELET AND ENGAGEMENT RING
[32.]	DESIGN FOR A DIAMOND RING
[33.]	DESIGN FOR A GOLD RING
[34.]	DESIGN FOR A FORMAL DIAMOND AND PLATINUM BRACELET
[35.]	DIAMOND AND PEARL BRACELET
[36.]	DESIGN FOR A BRACELET
[37.]	TREE OF LIFE
[38.]	DESIGN FOR A MULTI-PURPOSE JEWEL
[39.]	AURORA BOREALIS
[40.]	FLOWER FANTASY
[41.]	DIAMOND HAIR ORNAMENT
[42.]	THREE-STRAND PEARL BRACELET
[43.]	MISS BLANCHE THEBOM
[44.]	CANTERBURY BELL
[45.]	GOLD SHELL FOR INFORMAL WEAR
[46.]	FLOWER LAPEL BROOCH
[47.]	MRS. TEX MC CRARY
[Following Page 256]
[48.]	PORTRAIT OF H. H. INDIRA DEVI
[49.]	SPRAY PIN DESIGN
[50.]	DESIGN FOR A DIAMOND CUP
[51.]	DESIGN FOR A DOUBLE CLIP
[52.]	DESIGN FOR A GOLD AND DIAMOND PIN
[53.]	PORTRAIT OF FLIPPY
[54.]	FLORIAN
[55.]	SET OF EARCLIPS AND BROOCH
[56.]	GOLD AND DIAMOND WATCH
[57.]	PEARL NECKLACE WITH TWO DIAMOND MOTIFS
[58.]	TABLE OF DIAMONDS
[59.]	MODELS OF THE KOHINOOR DIAMOND
[60.]	GOLD CIGAR BOX

Foreword

“Diamonds,” the song goes, “are a girl’s best friend.” Take special note of the sex; it is significant. For only among humans has the female increasingly become the adorned sex. The mane of the lion or of the stallion gives the male a magnificence beyond the competence of the lioness or the mare. It is the peacock that spreads the studded glory of its tail—not the peahen. As among the birds and beasts, so primitive man was the resplendent sex, while his mate went about her task, in more subdued and humble tones. By the time of the Renaissance—it took that long in civilization’s climb—men and women were about equal in their adornment. In Europe, indeed, only men wore diamonds until 1444, when King Charles VII of France (whom Joan of Arc had placed upon the throne) was captivated by Agnes Sorel’s beauty and daring, when she appeared in a superb necklace of diamonds. The diamond at once became the prized gem of womankind.

The costumes and jewels of the courtiers of Elizabeth I of England were surpassed by those of the Queen only in the measure of her superior station. Since then, however, the attire of men has grown increasingly functional, sedate, and commonplace, while that of women has retained its freedom of color and flow. And the great world of jewelry is preeminently the woman’s domain.

Scientists in several fields have sought the reasons for this change; we may rest content with the fact. A man may be thought distinguished, or perhaps handsome; only a woman may be called beautiful. And by proper adornment of apparel and jewelry, every woman seeks to enhance her beauty.

Certain austere sects frown upon “artificial” aids to beauty. In the hills of Pennsylvania are honest women whose lips and cheeks have never been touched by added color. But such persons are outside the main path of human progress. For the quest of beauty—surely a legitimate and a desirable quest—has taken the same path as the other great adventures of man, which have placed him supreme among all living creatures.

Look at the problem of security. The bear can strike a tremendous blow with his paw. The tiger springs with fierce gash of fang and claw. The eagle pounces with deadly talon and beak. Beside these, how puny the fist of man! But the bear, the tiger, the eagle remain with but these weapons, while man closed his tiny hand around a club, then hurled a spear, then winged his bow with arrows, shot forth his bullets and his bombs. While the animals mark a dead end of evolution, man continued to evolve by “artificial” extensions of his powers.

The same is true in every field. The news of the victory of Marathon was borne by a runner, who coursed the twenty-four miles, gasped out his word of triumph, and dropped dead. Since then man has harnessed the ox, mounted the horse, and surpassed all other creatures in means of travel upon and within the waters, across the earth, high and higher in the air.

So in the realm of beauty. First man painted his naked body. Then he adorned himself with claws and teeth torn from the animals, with feathers plucked from the birds. Soon he discovered the sheen of precious metals, the sparkle of gems. The progress of adornment, from ancient Egypt to the twentieth century world, has been marked by the further discovery and refinement of metals and the design of jewels. Synthetic gems and costume jewelry have given to every woman opportunities once limited to the wealthy few; the principles applicable to the wearing of costly jewels are the same for their less expensive cousins. And the pattern of the quest of personal beauty is in line with the general pattern of human evolution.

Although we have approached beauty through these somewhat solemn reflections, we must not forget that the best reflection of beauty is in the admiring eye of the beholder. It is a mutual pleasure; but it is a personal, an individual task. For it is every woman’s duty—not merely to herself but to those around—to present her fairest aspect to the world.

To the old remark: Love is blind, the cynic has added: But marriage is an eye-opener. Of course, neither statement is true. While love may fasten upon and prize other qualities, the lover is usually keenly aware of the measure of his beloved’s beauty. He takes increasing pride and pleasure as she finds fresh ways of enhancing her natural gifts. There is a lesson hidden in the statement that if a woman is beautiful at fifteen she may thank God, but if she is beautiful at fifty she has herself to thank. The lesson is that a woman can learn what is seemly, what is becoming, what adds to her beauty.

One may look at precious stones and magnificent jewels ranged in a museum or in a store. When they are being worn, we look not so much at them as at the ensemble they help to create of a live alluring woman. The Crown Jewels in the Tower of London are imposing. When they are worn on occasions of state, the court regalia combine to keep them imposing still: it is less a person than a position that they adorn. But with the rest of us mortals, as even with queens in less stately hours, the jewels must fit the person and the personality, as well as the occasion.

What looks most attractive against the dark velvet on a counter may fail to harmonize with golden glinting hair. The size of the earlobe, the figure of the woman, the color of the dress, the activity of the evening, all are factors in determining which jewels one should wear. Jewels have a long history, but always an immediate test of use. In both aspects, they hold an ever present allure.

MARIANNE OSTIER