THE DRESS BUDGET
The Country Girl has this advantage—the business of the farm and the home are so closely connected that the work she has to do can be carried on without separating her from her home. This would not be so in any work she could undertake in the city. She would not have a great big house to return to from her store or factory, but some little upstairs room, the "hall-bedroom" of that tragic book The Long Day, which so painfully portrays the conditions of work for girls in a great city. The Country Girl in her home with her housework about her is in a paradise compared with conditions such as these.
The "home" means rent, board, general living expenses—all these are looked out for in the scheme of life for the Country Girl. Why, then, does she feel so great a need for sheer money? The reason is partly this: she has the dress problem on her hands. She is scantily supplied with a bit now and then when she asks for a cloak or some other garment; she is not assigned a certain sum a month, as her self-respecting spirit demands, and left free to use it as her judgment directs. She has not been trained to do this and the fear that she will not do it wisely keeps the father from inaugurating such a system. In the long run, after the daughter has gained wisdom from a few mistakes with the suffering resulting therefrom, the outgo from the parental pocket would not be much increased by adopting the educative method of letting her have the personal management of her little budget. Few fathers can bear to see a daughter really suffer; most fathers will not let her even foolishly think that she is suffering, and a plea from her will generally bring an indulgence in some unnecessary purchase.
The problem is intricate and has many sides; but we believe the best way for the father to take would be to place a set sum at her command with the injunction that she is to plan and use it carefully—and make it do! If the parent is able to go so far in the process of education as to start her on a cash account and oversee her as she tries to carry it on, especially if he will initiate her in the mysteries of a small bank account, he will in the majority of cases be richly repaid in the development of an ability to manage and to save that he did not suspect the daughter to possess.
The father himself, in the happy-go-lucky method of most fathers in their financial relations with the women of the family, does not know what the daughter's dress budget for a year ought to be. The following lists of items for a country girl's dress budget are presented here as much for the father's sake as for that of the girls. The lists have been drawn from various sources and they represent the thought of many students of country life conditions and of some country girls themselves.
The first list was made by a wide-awake Country Girl in the State of Idaho:
LIST OF CLOTHING FOR A YEAR, FOR A GIRL IN HIGH SCHOOL
| 1 suit for best for 1 year, coat for best 2 years | $15.00 |
| 1 winter coat | 6.00 |
| 1 winter hat for best | 2.50 |
| 1 winter hat for school, a felt knock-about | 1.00 |
| 1 spring coat or party wrap | 6.50 |
| 1 summer hat | 3.00 |
| 1 pair gloves, seldom worn here except on Sundays | 1.50 |
| 1 pair golf gloves | .50 |
| 4 pairs shoes | 10.00 |
| 8 pairs of stockings | .80 |
| 2 pairs rubbers | 1.30 |
| 2 suits underclothing, winter | 1.80 |
| 2 suits underclothing, summer | .70 |
| 3 underskirts, white | 2.25 |
| 1 underskirt, knitted | .50 |
| 1 silk underskirt | 1.98 |
| 2 pairs corsets | 3.00 |
| 6 corset covers | 1.50 |
| 4 waists (not worn much) | 3.00 |
| 1 worsted skirt | 1.98 |
| 1 linen skirt | .98 |
| 2 gingham wash dresses | 2.00 |
| 1 princess slip | 1.00 |
| Miscellaneous, per year of nine months | 9.00 |
| ——— | |
| $77.79 |
She adds this note: "Some figures are guessed at, for I make and remake my clothes always. Note that the suit is not necessary. Needless to mention these figures are doubled and even trebled by some thoughtless girls of poor but long-suffering parents. I earn my own money."
The following meager list represents, I am sure, the thought of a girl who has been accustomed to the least that could possibly be got along with:
DRESS FOR A VILLAGE GIRL GOING TO SCHOOL
| 2 woolen combination suits | $3.00 |
| 1 corset waist | .50 |
| 2 flannelette petticoats | 1.00 |
| 1 black petticoat | 1.50 |
| 1 waist | 3.00 |
| 1 dress skirt | 3.00 |
| 1 woolen dress | 3.00 |
| 1 winter hat | 3.00 |
| 1 pair gloves | 1.00 |
| 6 pairs of stockings | 1.50 |
| 2 pairs of rubbers | .80 |
| 2 pairs of shoes | 6.00 |
| 1 winter coat | 10.00 |
| 1 spring coat | 7.00 |
| 6 handkerchiefs | .99 |
| ——— | |
| $45.29 |
The following is quoted with permission from a valuable little leaflet prepared by Miss Caroline D. Pratt, of Hampton Institute, Hampton, Virginia, and shows what the prices would be for a girl in the southern realm:
SUGGESTIONS FOR CLOTHING FOR SCHOOL GIRLS
| 6 undervests (summer) | $.60 |
| 4 undervests (winter) | 1.00 |
| 4 pair drawers, homemade | .80 |
| 2 white petticoats, homemade | 1.00 |
| 3 nightgowns, homemade | 1.65 |
| 4 underwaists, homemade | 1.00 |
| 1 gingham petticoat, homemade | .40 |
| 2 short flannel petticoats, homemade | .70 |
| 6 plain shirt waists, homemade | 2.40 |
| 1 white percale dress skirt, homemade | .55 |
| 1 gingham dress, homemade | 1.00 |
| 1 muslin dress, homemade | 1.50 |
| 4 gingham aprons, homemade | .72 |
| 2 white aprons, homemade | .60 |
| 4 pairs stockings | 1.00 |
| 1 pair low shoes | 2.50 |
| 1 pair high shoes | 3.00 |
| 1 pair corsets | .50 |
| 1 hat | 2.00 |
| 1 wool skirt | 3.00 |
| 1 suit | 12.50 |
| 1 raincoat | 3.00 |
| 1 pair rubbers | .60 |
| 1 umbrella | 1.00 |
| 4 collars | .40 |
| 12 handkerchiefs | 1.20 |
| 1 pair gloves, lisle | .25 |
| 1 pair gloves, wool | .25 |
| Belts, neckties | 1.50 |
| ——— | |
| $46.62 |
This list has been very carefully thought out, it is evident; but while the sum is small, we believe that it would be difficult to get clothing of good material at these figures. For instance, the corset. A fifty-cent corset cannot easily be made to last a year; and it would probably be of such a shape that it would be injurious rather than helpful to the wearer. Perhaps something else could be substituted for that, however; that should be studied out by the Country Girls.
To this budget Miss Pratt adds a page of suggestions that are so useful that we are glad to have more girls read them.
Here they are:
WHAT A WELL-DRESSED GIRL WEARS TO SCHOOL
| Neat, plain, shirt waists. |
| Plain, well-made, cotton or wool dresses. |
| Plain, short, wool skirt. Good material will last longer and prove more economical in the end. |
| Clean, plain, well-mended, durable underwear. If trimmed, use cambric ruffles, lace, or embroidery of good quality. Torchon lace wears well and is cheap. |
| Clean collars and neckties. |
| Neckties and belts should either match or harmonize with skirt or waist. |
| Hair neatly and becomingly dressed, not extreme. |
| Clean hands and finger nails. |
| Plainly trimmed hat. |
| Plain, serviceable coat. |
| Neat, comfortable shoes. |
| Neat gloves. |
| Old gloves and shoes are neat when clean and carefully mended. |
WHAT A WELL-DRESSED GIRL DOES NOT WEAR TO SCHOOL
| Elaborate shirt waists or dresses. |
| Jewelry. |
| Low shoes and thin stockings in winter. |
| Bright, gay colors. |
| Petticoats longer than dress skirt. |
| Dusty, spotted clothes. |
| Fussy neckwear. |
| Soiled shirt waist and collar. |
| Dresses or underwaists cut too low. |
| Short sleeves in winter. |
| Coats, dresses, skirts, or waists whose buttons or hooks and eyes are lacking. |
| Holes in stockings. |
| Safety-pin showing beneath the belt. |
From a report by Miss Caroline Gleason, Director of Social Survey for the Consumers' League of Oregon, is copied, with permission, a carefully made list representing conditions in the Northwest:
| 1 winter coat | $15.00 |
| 1 suit | 18.00 |
| 1 extra skirt | 5.00 |
| 2 dark waists | 4.00 |
| 4 white waists | 4.00 |
| 2 dark underskirts | 2.00 |
| 4 suits summer underwear | 2.00 |
| 3 suits winter underwear | 3.00 |
| 1 dozen pair stockings | 3.00 |
| 2 pair corsets | 3.00 |
| 4 corset covers | 2.00 |
| 1½ dozen cotton handkerchiefs | .90 |
| 4 pair gloves | 4.00 |
| 4 pair shoes | 10.00 |
| 1 pair rubbers | .50 |
| 1 umbrella | 1.00 |
| 3 hats | 6.00 |
| 1 party dress | 10.00 |
| 3 white underskirts | 4.50 |
| 2 summer dresses | 10.00 |
| ———- | |
| $107.90 |
Miss Gleason adds: "In making out a budget for the cost of the Country Girl's clothes, I would feel it necessary to consider whether they were procured in the city at city prices (through mail order houses) or in the country store. My reason for saying this is that, judging from my slight experience, country prices are higher than city prices even with postage attached."
These Western and Southern reports may be supplemented by two that come from New England. The first of these is made by Miss L. G. Chase, Social Worker in Providence, Rhode Island, and represents a great deal of thought and experience. It may be called final for that part of the country. It is as follows:
Underwear—
| Winter—3 union suits at 75c. (cotton and wool) | $2.25 |
| Summer—3 shirts at 25c. | .75 |
| 3 pair drawers (made at home) at 25c. | .75 |
| Two outing-flannel petticoats, 5 yds. at 11c. | .55 |
| Two outside petticoats, 5 yds. at 9c. | .45 |
| One ferris-waist | 1.00 |
| One pair garters | .20 |
| Four nightdresses (estimated) | 2.00 |
Coats, hats, gloves—
| Summer coat | 6.98 |
| Winter school hat | 1.50 |
| Winter hat (best) | 4.50 |
| Summer hat (every day) | 3.50 |
| Two pair gloves | 2.00 |
Rubbers, shoes, stockings—
| One pair rubbers | .75 |
| One pair high shoes | 3.75 |
| One pair low shoes | 2.50 |
| Repairs to shoes | 1.20 |
| Eight pair stockings (estimated) | 1.63 |
Dresses—
| Summer—4 yds. gingham at 50c.—Trimming 23c. (best dress) | 2.23 |
| Gingham dress, 6 yds. at 9c.—Trimmings 23c. | .77 |
| White middy blouse and skirt—5 yds. material at 12-1/2c. | .63 |
| Fall and winter | |
| Blue ratinée—4½ yds. at 25c., trimming and girdle 65c. | 1.78 |
| Brown corduroy—6 yds. at 50c., trimming $1.00 | 4.00 |
| Three shirt-waists—2½ yds. each at 12-1/2c. | .94 |
| One pongee waist | |
| (Made from dress of mother, estimated value of waist | |
| to take its place) | 1.00 |
| Handkerchiefs, collars, ties, etc. (estimated) | 3.00 |
| ——— | |
| $50.61 |
Left over for use for another year—
| Winter coat, |
| Sweater, |
| White panama hat, |
| White dress, |
| Princess slip, |
| Corset cover, |
| Blue serge dress, |
| Black and white check dress, |
| Gingham dress, |
| House dress. |
The second New England budget was prepared by a group of girls at the Agricultural College of Connecticut, most of whom came from the country. The scheme is made for three years' wear and is given with the caption that the girls themselves chose.
A THREE-YEAR BUDGET
SUITABLE FOR A SIXTEEN TO EIGHTEEN YEAR OLD GIRL LIVING IN THE COUNTRY AND ATTENDING A NEIGHBORING HIGH SCHOOL, WITH THE ADVANTAGE OF SHOPPING IN THE CITY.
To be attractive is not to attract attention. In choosing her clothes, a young girl at school must consider style, suitability, durability, neatness, and cost. Cheap materials should not be chosen merely because they are cheap, for in the end a high-priced material is often cheaper than a low-priced one.
| 8 light-weight unionsuits at 25c. | $2.00 |
| 5 heavy-weight knit unionsuits at $1.00 | 5.00 |
| 8 corset covers (plain) at 25c. | 2.00 |
| 4 corset covers (fancy) at 60c. | 2.40 |
| 1 princess slip | 1.25 |
| 3 white petticoats at $1.50 | 4.50 |
| 2 dark petticoats at $1.00 | 2.00 |
| 4 summer nightgowns (of long cloth or nainsook) at 85c. | 3.40 |
| 3 winter nightgowns (of outing-flannel) at 62c. | 1.86 |
| 6 pairs corsets at $1.00 | 6.00 |
| 4 waists (made at home of material easily laundered) at 50c. | 2.00 |
| 4 waists at $1.50 | 6.00 |
| 1 heavy skirt | 5.00 |
| 5 cotton dresses at $1.25 | 6.25 |
| 1 dress (silk) | 8.00 |
| 3 dresses, woolen material at $3.50 | 10.50 |
| 1 suit (coat and skirt) | 22.50 |
| 1 heavy skirt | 5.00 |
| 1 sweater | 5.00 |
| 1 heavy coat | 18.00 |
| 1 light coat | 6.00 |
| 1 raincoat | 5.00 |
| 4 winter hats | 11.50 |
| 4 summer hats | 15.00 |
| 2 pairs silk gloves | 2.00 |
| 4 pairs heavy gloves | 4.00 |
| 4 ties at 25c. | 1.00 |
| 24 handkerchiefs | 4.25 |
| 9 pairs stockings at 50c. | 4.50 |
| 18 pairs stockings at 25c. | 4.50 |
| 8 pairs shoes at $2.50 | 20.00 |
| Extras: hairpins, tooth-brushes, shoe-polish, various toilet articles | 6.00 |
| Extras: ribbons, velvet, collars, etc. | 12.00 |
| ———- | |
| Dress budget for three years | $218.61 |
| Dress budget for one year | $72.87 |
These various budgets are given that we may be sure to have some approach to a standard for each part of the country. But it is of course possible that none of them will meet the case of a great many of the girls. However, the hope is that they may at least give the suggestion that it is a useful thing to make such a list in order that a girl may thus be able to see at a glance what she is doing with her money; and when she is looking forward into the year ahead she may feel an inspiration to plan beforehand and thus forestall the disaster that so surely follows poor investment. The first principle of efficiency is to put in a pin, as it were, at a certain point, so that one may see what point has been reached and so be helped to decide whether it can be surpassed another time.
Let this chapter be a help to put in such a pin, to set something like an ideal of what is possible in the matter of reasonable dress. It may also aid the daughter to know what she may fairly expect her father to supply for her needs. It may help the well-meaning father to realize what he must do if his children are able to hold up their heads in the community. The rank of the head of the family is often reckoned by the appearance of the wife and child. Some of these lists are evidently made for a girl whose father may be marked by the daughter's dress as a man of less position and generosity and fairness than he imagines himself to be. That state of things can easily be corrected. On the other hand, the girl that has time for sewing, and the cleverness and training to do it, should take delight in making her clothing for herself. Given those antecedent conditions, the Country Girl's dress will thus be not only less expensive, but also better adapted to herself, and more charming because more individual.