|
[Contents.]
[List of Plates] [List of Illustrations] [List of Cut Out Patterns or Plans of Garments] [List of Dated Garments] (In certain versions of this etext [in certain browsers] clicking on the image will bring up a larger version.) (etext transcriber's note) |
A
TECHNICAL HISTORY
OF COSTUME
*
ANCIENT EGYPTIAN, ASSYRIAN, AND
PERSIAN COSTUMES
In Preparation
ANCIENT GREEK, ROMAN AND
BYZANTINE COSTUME AND DECORATIONS.
———
EUROPEAN COSTUME FROM THE
THIRTEENTH CENTURY TO THE
COMMENCEMENT OF THE SEVENTEENTH
CENTURY——WITH DECORATIONS.
———
TYPES OF INDIAN, PERSIAN, CHINESE
AND JAPANESE COSTUME AND DECORATIONS.
With Notes on Various Additional
Types of Primitive Garments.
| AGENTS | |
| AMERICA | THE MACMILLAN COMPANY |
| 64 & 66 Fifth Avenue, NEW YORK | |
| AUSTRALASIA | OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS |
| 205 Flinders Lane, MELBOURNE | |
| CANADA | THE MACMILLAN COMPANY OF CANADA. LTD. |
| St. Martin’s House, 70 Bond Street, TORONTO | |
| INDIA | MACMILLAN & COMPANY, LTD. |
| Macmillan Building, BOMBAY | |
| 309 Bow Bazaar Street, CALCUTTA |
ANCIENT EGYPTIAN
ASSYRIAN AND
PERSIAN COSTUMES
AND DECORATIONS
BY
MARY G. HOUSTON
AND
FLORENCE S. HORNBLOWER
CONTAINING TWENTY-FIVE FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS,
SIXTEEN OF THEM IN COLOUR, AND SIXTY LINE
DIAGRAMS IN THE TEXT
A. & C. BLACK, LIMITED
4, 5 & 6 SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W. 1.
1920
INTRODUCTION
If this work is to be kept within its limitations, it is naturally impossible to give a complete survey of all the varieties of the various styles. To get this knowledge it will be necessary to consult the works of reference, of which lists are given in each section. On the other hand, the special aspect of the work is more fully treated than in any other accessible book upon the subject.
Every illustration of costume given has been actually cut out and made up before being sketched, except in a few cases which are of the nature of duplicates, so that by following the directions given it will be easy for anyone to reproduce them in material. Where decoration is required, the exact drawing and colouring of the various styles of Historic Ornament, which are the work of F. S. Hornblower (who has also coloured the costumes where necessary), will enable such details to be appropriately applied.
Throughout the book, the illustrations are given by means of facsimiles of drawings by artists of the various centuries, so that a historic survey of the History of Figure Drawing will be included. Where the drawings of primitive artists do not clearly express the ideas intended to be conveyed, a modern drawing of the garment on a dress-stand will be used for explanation of the measured drawings of the cut-out garments. The growing appreciation of the beauty and value of the earlier and more primitive systems of cutting shown in modern dress designing for the last decade, when the so-called Magyar blouse (really the simple tunic common to all primitive folk) began to be popular, will make the present volume a convenient form of inspiration for designers; also, where more exact reproduction is needed, as in theatrical work, pageantry, and so forth, the careful working out of the details of cut and decoration will expedite production and save hours of fruitless searching in reference libraries.
To the Art Student, in addition to the always interesting history of costume, the development of the Art of Representation, as shown in the illustrations of these volumes, which is so strangely repeated in the personal history of every young person learning to draw, will be attractive and instructive. Finally, in connection with the history lesson in the ordinary school, teachers will find the illustrations clear and helpful, especially if dramatic representations are attempted.
MARY G. HOUSTON.
CONTENTS
| PAGE | |
| [ANCIENT EGYPTIAN COSTUME] | [1] |
| [ANCIENT ASSYRIAN COSTUME] | [43] |
| [ANCIENT PERSIAN COSTUME] | [75] |
LIST OF PLATES
IN COLOUR
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
IN THE TEXT, OTHER THAN PLANS
| Fig. [2]. | Tunic with Braces | [11] |
| Fig. [3]. | Tunic with Short Sleeves | [11] |
| Fig. [4]. | Sleeveless Tunic | [11] |
| Fig. [5]. | Robe, Undraped | [14] |
| Fig. [6]. | Robe, Draped and Girded | [18] |
| Figs. [7], [8] and [91]. | Three Views of a Draped Robe | [19] |
| Fig. [10]. | Robe Draped on a Woman | [20] |
| Figs. [11] and [12]. | Two Skirts and a Cape | [27] |
| Figs. [13], [14] and [151]. | Skirts, Cloaks and a Cape | [31] |
| Fig. [16]. | Shawl or Drapery | [32] |
| Figs. [17] and [19]. | Two Drapings of Shawls | [35] |
| Fig. [18]. | A Simple Shawl Drapery | [37] |
| Fig. [20]. | Draping of a Cloak | [38] |
| Fig. [21]. | Military Corselet and Apron-like Appendage | [39] |
| Fig. [22]. | Robe with Corselet and Girdle | [39] |
| Figs. [23], [24] and [251]. | An Indian Sari | [41] |
| Figs. [26], [27] and [281]. | Three Views of a Shawl Drapery | [49] |
| Fig. [30]. | Belted Tunic and Small Shawl | [53] |
| Fig. [31]. | Belted Tunic with Fringe Draping | [55] |
| Fig. [32]. | Short Tunic with Small Shawl and Belt | [57] |
| Fig. [33]. | Tunic Draped with Shawl | [59] |
| Figs. [34], [35] and [361]. | Folded Drapery over Tunic | [65] |
| Fig. [37]. | Folded Drapery over Tunic | [67] |
| Fig. [38]. | Semicircular and Folded Draperies | [67] |
| Fig. [39]. | Richly Decorated Tunic | [69] |
| Fig. [40]. | Robe, Belted and Draped | [80] |
| Figs. [41] and [42]. | A Drapery in Ancient and in Modern Drawing | [83] |
| Figs. [43] and [44]. | A Drapery in Ancient and in Modern Drawing | [85] |
| Fig. [45]. | Short-Sleeved Coat over Tunic | [87] |
| Fig. [46]. | Overcoat, Short Tunic and Trousers | [89] |
LIST OF CUT OUT PATTERNS OR PLANS OF GARMENTS
| PAGES | |
| Tunics, with Braces | [8] AND [11] |
| Tunic, Sleeveless | [11] |
| Tunics, with Sleeves | [11] AND [69] |
| Robes | [14] AND [80] |
| Skirt | [26] |
| Cape | [26] |
| Collar | [26] |
| Shawls or Draperies | [34], [35], [37], [41], [49], [50], [62], [67], [82], [84] |
| Cloak | [38] |
| Corselets | [39] |
| Coats | [86] AND [88] |
| Trousers | [88] |
LIST OF DATED GARMENTS
ILLUSTRATED
| ANCIENT EGYPTIAN SECTION | |||
| PAGE | PAGE | ||
| 3700 B.C. | [10] | 1200 B.C. | [38] |
| 2500 B.C. | [16] | 700 B.C. | [6] |
| 1700 B.C. | [8] AND [10] | 550 B.C. | [36] |
| 1600 B.C. | [36] | Fourth Century B.C. | [30] |
| 1500 B.C. | [10] | First Century B.C. | [8] |
| 1450 B.C. | [16] AND [20] | A.D. 200 | [30] |
| 1300 B.C. | [36] | A.D. 1920 | [40] |
| ANCIENT ASSYRIAN SECTION | |
| PAGE | |
| 2500 B.C. | [48] |
| 1000 B.C. | [50] |
| Ninth Century B.C. | [52], [56] AND [62] |
| Eighth Century B.C. | [58] |
| Seventh Century B.C. | [68] AND [70] |
| ANCIENT PERSIAN SECTION | |
| Eighth Century B.C. | [84] |
| Sixth to Fifth Centuries B.C. | [80], [82], [86] AND [88] |
| DECORATION | |
| Ancient Egyptian Decoration | [13], [23] AND [29] |
| Ancient Assyrian Decoration | [61], [69] AND [73] |
| WORKS OF REFERENCE | [5] AND [47] |
ANCIENT EGYPTIAN COSTUME
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
OF
ANCIENT EGYPTIAN COSTUME