MEN AND WOMEN: THE DIFFERENCE IN THEIR DRESS
There is not sufficient information to form a definite picture of the women’s dress of this period and style; most probably it was a simple tunic and shawl like that worn in Assyria, but an interesting fact is that we have a representation of the Queen of a Persian King who reigned in the fifth century A.D. who is wearing trousers, which, it will be remembered, are worn by Persian women of the present day. In this connection it may be noted that the history of costume, as developed through the use of woven materials, presents a much more simple aspect than the history of those styles bearing evidences of having been first cut from leather. A moment’s reflection will make it clear that in the case of woven stuffs the most economical system of cutting, and indeed the most obvious, for the primitive dress fashioner, was based on the rectangle. On the other hand, the fashioner of leather garments would naturally try to fit the human body with, as it were, a second skin, hence trousers and tight-fitting jackets may appear in very early civilizations.
For list of authorities see Ancient Assyrian Costume.
[Plate XVI.] is a representation of Darius, King of Persia, sixth and fifth centuries B.C.; he is wearing the Median “Robe of Honour.” It will be seen from the plan ([Fig. 40A]) that this robe is sewn up each side, leaving a space of 20 inches on either side for the hands. Like the Egyptian robe, the material required is twice the height of the figure, the material is doubled, a neck-hole cut, and the garment is pulled on over the head. The Persian or Median method of wearing the garment is unique: a girdle is tightly bound round the waist, and then the robe is pulled up at either side over the girdle so as to produce the very elegant effect shown in [Plate XVI.] and [Fig. 40], which is a modern drawing of the front view of [Plate XVI.], the result giving great freedom to the arms. The King seems to have two robes of the same cut, one under the other.
PLATE XVI
To arrange the drapery, dating sixth to fifth centuries B.C., on [Fig. 41], take the corner b of [Fig. 41A] in the left hand, letting the rest of the drapery fall down the back, draw the edge b-a across the back, then under the right arm-pit across the chest, and throw the corner a upwards and over the left shoulder; a will hang down the back. It will be noted that this garment is weighted at the corners; this keeps it in position.
[Fig. 42] is a modern drawing showing the garment in front view.
[Fig. 43], dating eighth century B.C., is wearing cloak (see [Fig. 43A]) partly fringed. It is worn much in the same manner as [Fig. 41], but in [Fig. 43] the corner a is thrown backwards over the left shoulder, and the edge a-b is passed across the chest and under the right arm-pit, then drawn across the back, and the corner b falls down in front of the left shoulder.
This costume is not Persian, but that of some nation to the east of Persia in northern Asia Minor. The wearing of boots with upturned toes as here shown seems to have extended from Persia across northern Asia Minor to the Mediterranean even as far west as Italy.
[Fig. 44] is a modern drawing showing the garment in front view.
[Fig. 45] is wearing a short-sleeved coat over a tunic. The edging shown is probably uncut fringe; in reality it would not fit the figure neatly, as the ancient artist has indicated, but would hang rather loosely.
[Fig. 45A] shows the method of cutting.
The costume is considered to be that of a Jewish captive of the Persian conqueror and dates sixth to fifth centuries B.C.
[Fig. 46], which dates sixth to fifth centuries B.C., is wearing over a tunic and trousers (see [Fig. 46B]) an overcoat with a set-in sleeve (see Fig. 46B), turned-over collar and cuffs, and tied in front with ribbons. The plan ([Fig. 46A]) shows one of the earliest known methods of setting in the sleeve; the collar in this plan is represented turned forward and lying flat.
The tunic worn by this figure, under his long overcoat, and also the trousers would most probably be of leather.
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